【The Continent】I Have Fallen in Love with Britain Seven Times: A Pilgrimage to London, Edinburgh, Manchester, Liverpool, the Peak District, and Northern Ireland

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In the film The Continent, Hao Han says, "You have to say goodbye with all your might, because every extra word could be the last, and every extra look could be the last." People keep losing touch in life, and after my best friends and lover both left, I came to understand the weight of those words and the meaning of farewell.

Even the least ritualistic person will make a choice to bid farewell to something—for example, we have weddings and funerals when someone leaves single life or passes away; we throw a celebration banquet after a successful project; we eat zongzi on Dragon Boat Festival and mooncakes on Mid-Autumn Festival, and we give gifts to partners and family on a holiday full of love; or it could be a travel experience, where we use words and photos to record all kinds of things in the world. A camera can capture the faint aurora on the horizon and antelopes running on the prairie; words can record the feelings of the moment and tell the next traveler whether the noodles at Old Ma's shop by the street taste better or whether the azaleas behind the mountain temple are worth the trip.

That's why I love ritual, and that's what I believe travelogues are for.

Since 2016, my bond with the UK has been indescribable. Months of study abroad, a long thesis period, and a rare internship—this land has brought me much new knowledge and emotion. I once thought that after finishing the heavy coursework and the pressure of the thesis, I would do again all the things I found super interesting in these past years.

For example, go to the small garden behind the school again to pick some of the UK's unique wild chives and bring them back to the dorm to make Chinese dumplings for my Croatian roommate; for example, abandon the silly sailor uniform and change into a more gorgeous and dark Lolita dress to take a cool, beautifully edited photoshoot at my favorite Gothic cathedral; for example, go to that Mexican restaurant in London whose name I can't recall, and this time I must order its signature corn tortilla... there are so many things.

You never know which comes first, tomorrow or the unexpected. Some people and things are precious precisely because they happen only once.

In early 2020, the sudden disease ravaged China, then Europe, and now the Americas, the current epicenter. Honestly, at the start of the pandemic, seeing the overloaded work of domestic medical staff and the pressure on customs, I didn't want to cause trouble. But Boris's announcement of "herd immunity" chilled the hearts of most international students and Chinese. With no hope of the pandemic improving and under the worry of parents and friends, I finally returned to China for quarantine with some regrets.

I had always wondered what kind of grand thing I should do to say goodbye to this country that had held me for so long. Should I get drunk by the Thames and then, in a burst of inspiration, discuss the meaning of life with a homeless person? Or should I catch a fat pigeon I've long coveted in the square, roast it, and then be sent to the police and deported? Haha, just kidding. All I could do was sit in front of the computer and type these words, merging countless photos into seven different memories that take me back to the moments I fell in love with her.

The first time, walking through the British Museum, searching for memories lost across the ocean.

The second time, standing on the old London Bridge, paying tribute to Mr. Holmes who traveled through time.

The third time, hiking through the misty Peak District, revisiting the estate of Pride and Prejudice.

The fourth time, shedding tears at Anfield stadium, cheering for the rebirth of the firebird.

The fifth time, strolling through the streets of Edinburgh, holding the Hogwarts acceptance letter.

The sixth time, getting lost in the secret realm of Northern Ireland, retracing the path of Ice and Fire.

The last time, pacing along the coast of Swansea, listening to the legend of swans and the sea.

I've never been someone who can write tens of thousands of beautiful words during a trip. Wine gets better with age, and memories need to settle. A travelogue is not a running account. Sometimes you see a majestic cathedral and press the shutter. When that cathedral appears on your social media with a filter, what you can tell others is not just the name printed on the guidebook. Constantly reading history, understanding the local culture, and then writing words to publish on a public platform—this is the respect and responsibility for the words produced.

I've never been good at summarizing dry tips. The few dry tips in this article are also a bit awkward. Maybe it's too boring to note down detailed opening hours, ticket prices, and route recommendations for each attraction. And since I was lazy and asked an agency to book my tickets and academic visa guides, they probably aren't suitable for most tourists. So consider this a pseudo-literary monologue of life trivia over four years.

Most of the following photos were taken with Nikon D60, HUAWEI P20 Pro, iPhone 8 Plus.

Some are from Pixabay and related movie screenshots.

Not for commercial use. If there is any infringement, please forgive me.

"Searching for memories lost across the ocean" is how the creators of Monument Valley described their work. In my sophomore year, LY seriously recommended this game to me. "It's just a single-player casual game!" I muttered. I quickly finished it in two hours. It's also a journey, but this game focuses more on walking and experiencing in architectural spaces full of illusions, not fighting, collecting coins and stars, or eating everything to become stronger to defeat monsters. The protagonist only needs to return items to the monuments one by one.

Without a doubt, this is a game full of loneliness. The game and its visuals are beautifully designed, but Ida walks alone in the abandoned buildings. LY later told me that he felt this way every time he went to the British Museum for sketching. But at that time, I would rather queue for hours to eat at Shaka Zulu.

But later I still went. If once wasn't enough, I went twice, three times.

Established in 1753, the British Museum is one of the oldest and largest museums in the world, with a collection so rich and diverse that it is rare among museums worldwide. Standing under the largest glass dome in Europe, designed by Norman Foster, I felt a sense of shock and sorrow.

Route recommendation: The British Museum has 8 million artifacts. Even if only one percent is displayed each time, it's enough to overwhelm first-time visitors. Even so, listening to the audio guide covering more than 200 exhibits takes 5-6 hours. However, you can visit the British Museum's official website, which lists one-hour, three-hour, and children's routes based on different needs.

Upon entering, Rooms 11-23 on the left display ancient Greek and Roman sculptures. Room 18, the largest gallery in the British Museum, is dedicated to the Parthenon sculptures. The Elgin Marbles are particularly striking, dating back over 2,500 years. They are one of the three treasures of the British Museum.

Before entering, you might have noticed the museum's marble facade modeled after the Parthenon, white, dazzling, and magnificent, attracting countless people. But the real Parthenon on the Acropolis hill in Athens, thousands of miles away, is not so lucky. The temple has collapsed, the statues are gone, leaving only a frame of columns.

Looking back at the real history of the Parthenon is heartbreaking. In the 15th century, the Turks occupied Athens and turned the temple into a mosque. In the 17th century, the Venetians attacked Athens, and the Turks used the Parthenon as an ammunition depot, causing an explosion that destroyed half the sculptures, leaving it in ruins. In the early 19th century, the British Lord Elgin transported many remaining sculptures and architectural pieces, resulting in many original artifacts now scattered in the British Museum, the Louvre, Copenhagen, etc., unable to be recovered.

It is worth mentioning that in the early 20th century, the UK, succumbing to economic temptation and catering to the white supremacist views of the time, ground down the surface of the Elgin Marbles, which were part of the Parthenon, deliberately altering the original appearance of the artifacts. This is a classic case of cultural power being hijacked by politics and capital, and it became the biggest stain in the British Museum's history.

Room 4 on the ground floor and Rooms 61-66 on the third floor display ancient Egyptian, Sudanese, and Ethiopian cultures. With over 72,000 Egyptian artifacts, the British Museum is second to none in the world. There are large human-animal stone sculptures, mummies, inscriptions, murals, and handmade jewelry. Here, you can feel the brilliance of ancient civilization even more than in Egypt. For example, there are only two fully unwrapped mummies in the world, and the only one is kept in the British Museum.

The Rosetta Stone (Room 4, level 0) is always crowded. This stone was first discovered in 1799 by the French in the Egyptian port city of Rosetta. After Napoleon's defeat in Egypt, it fell into British hands and has been preserved and displayed in the British Museum since 1802.

Why is a stone considered a treasure of the British Museum?

This basalt stele records the same royal decree in ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs, Arabic cursive, and ancient Greek. This allowed modern archaeologists to decipher the meaning and structure of the lost Egyptian hieroglyphs by comparing the different versions, becoming a milestone in deciphering ancient Egyptian writing. Imagine if a stone discovered in China recorded the same historical event in oracle bone script, bronze script, and small seal script, providing a unified interpretation—its significance would be immense.

Among the many pharaohs who ruled ancient Egypt, Ramesses II (Room 4, level 0) of the 19th Dynasty is the most well-known. The bust of Ramesses II in the British Museum was smuggled out of the Ramesseum by the British envoy. Using levers, rollers, and ropes, they transported this huge bust to the UK. Looking at the hole in the left chest of the statue now, one can't help but sigh at the glory and decline of ancient civilization. He reigned for 67 years, and it was during his rule that ancient Egyptian civilization reached its peak.

The ancient Egyptians believed that the soul would not die after death but would attach to the body or statue. Therefore, pharaohs and others were made into mummies (Room 63, level 3).

First, the liver, lungs, kidneys, and intestines were placed in different stone jars, representing the four sons of the god Osiris. They believed this was an important step for resurrection. In the movie The Mummy Returns, the mummy chases after four Americans because they took the containers holding the pharaoh's organs.

Then the body was soaked in salt water to dissolve surface fat, then dried. The cavities were filled with spices, and the outside was coated with tree gum to prevent contact with air and bacteria. Next, spells were recited to open the eyes, nose, ears, and mouth of the mummy, and food was placed in its mouth. It was said that this would allow it to breathe, speak, and eat like a living person. Then the body was wrapped tightly in layers of linen. Thus, a long-lasting mummy was made. Finally, a burial ceremony was held, placing the mummy in a sarcophagus and into the tomb they had built for their eternal dwelling.

During my visit, I also saw many cute animals. This is because the ancient Egyptians believed that bulls, crocodiles, cats, and falcons were related to gods, and after burial, they could serve the dead through magic. For example, the people of Bubastis in the Delta believed that cats were closely related to the goddess Bastet.

The Book of the Dead (Room 63, level 3) is a collection of spells to guide the dead through the underworld. This papyrus records that in ancient Egypt, before meeting Osiris, the dead should be led by Anubis to be questioned by the gods about their deeds in life. After answering truthfully, the crucial "weighing of the heart" would take place.

On one side of the scale is the heart of the dead, on the other is the feather of truth. In ancient Egyptian religion, the heart was considered light. If the heart weighed down on the scale, it meant the person had done many bad deeds in life. Then the monster Ammit would immediately eat the heart, and the person could not achieve eternal life in the underworld. Those who passed the judgment would be led to Osiris to receive his blessing and live a happy life in the underworld.

The existing Dunhuang murals (Room 33, level 1) in the museum mainly came from 1907, when the Taoist priest Wang Yuanlu, who first discovered the Dunhuang caves, sold 29 boxes of artifacts to the British explorer Aurel Stein for four silver ingots. However, the largest mural here was confirmed not to be from Dunhuang.

But due to its bright green and orange color scheme and the same posture of male and female donors, these features directly remind people of most 10th-century Dunhuang murals, so the claim that this mural is from Dunhuang is widely circulated.

The dragon brushwork is fluid, and the craftsmanship is exquisite. It is no exaggeration to say that this pair of Yuan blue-and-white dragon vases (Room 95, level 2) are the most famous blue-and-white porcelain in the world. However, when this pair of blue-and-white dragon vases first appeared at a Beijing antique market in the early 20th century, collectors could not accurately date or judge them, so they were not recognized or circulated in society. Eventually, Sir Percival David, who lived in China, bought them and transported them back to the UK.

Now, this pair of Yuan blue-and-white dragon vases is preserved in the British Museum and is the last treasure of the museum.

Actually, when I went, the Admonitions Scroll (Room 91a, level 4) was not on display. Due to fragility, these Buddhist calligraphy and painting works are only exhibited for six weeks each year. But it didn't stop me from finding this remote corner on the fourth floor and appreciating the digital version of the scroll on an interactive touchscreen.

The Admonitions Scroll was once a favorite of Emperor Qianlong. It is a famous work by Gu Kaizhi and is recognized as a world-class treasure in art history. However, it was brutally cut into three pieces by British soldiers during the invasion of Beijing by the Eight-Nation Alliance and stolen, remaining abroad for a century.

More regrettably, although the British Museum has a high overall level, during restoration in the mid-20th century, due to cultural differences, scholars unfamiliar with Chinese painting preservation methods mistakenly used inappropriate Japanese mounting and display methods. They mounted the ancient painting on a wooden board, causing improper cutting and cracking, resulting in irreversible damage.

Most of its collection came from plunder and collection from around the world, especially from British colonies, during a time when colonization and掠夺 were considered natural for colonial countries. This source of collection and the society it belongs to are the roots of the British Museum's diverse evaluations.

Since colonial society has dissolved, the legitimacy of the British Museum's acquisitions during the colonial era has been repeatedly controversial, facing pressure from the original countries to reclaim artifacts. For example, Greece added a new clause to its free trade agreement with the UK and EU, demanding the return of the Parthenon sculptures.

Centuries ago, colonial expansion and racial wars made it impossible to distinguish whether these artifacts came from plunder, gifts, or exchange. Perhaps their ownership is a matter of law, but what we are grateful for is still the existing form of these ancient civilizations, rather than just dwelling on gains and losses.

But I still remember the eternal theme of that game: return and loneliness.

I can't forget the first time my plane landed in London four years ago. That evening, the sky over the Thames and Westminster Abbey rarely showed a sunset-colored sky. Tokyo's theme has always been elegance, Paris romance, New York bustling. But over the years, I've never been able to define London with a single word. London's elements are too complex—perhaps as bright as the red telephone boxes, as pure as the white London Eye, as red-and-blue as the subway logo and Paddington Bear...

But the most renowned are probably those men leaning on London Bridge with pipes in the fog. As a mystery fan since childhood, I've always thought of the UK as the home of detectives. Whether it's the detective Hercule Poirot by Agatha Christie or Sherlock Holmes by Arthur Conan Doyle, they all embody the British gentleman image of trench coats, pipes, and black hats. But the difference is that Agatha's stories mostly take place in Europe or North Africa, like Murder on the Orient Express, And Then There Were None, and Death on the Nile, while Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes series truly happens in London itself. For example, the heinous Jack the Ripper still lurks like a midnight ghost in the 120-year fog of London. Over a century, Sherlock Holmes stories have been staged countless times on TV and in theaters. The BBC's 2010 Sherlock features a younger, more rebellious, and antisocial Holmes, fitting the dark themes favored by today's youth. The ambiguous feelings between him and Watson also add intrigue to the show.

Under the silly joke of "asking British Prime Minister David Cameron to help urge the crew to update," season 4 of Sherlock came in 2017. Unsurprisingly, thanks to the excellent script and Benedict Cumberbatch's brilliant performance, the Holmes craze swept the country again. Most of Sherlock's main filming locations are in London. Many classic scenes can be traced back to real addresses, and most are free to visit. If you're a fan, why not explore these famous filming locations during your trip to London?

The most classic opening shot of Sherlock shows miniature London through a magnifying glass, achieved through tilt-shift and time-lapse photography. Iconic London landmarks appear in turn: the London Eye, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, the Thames, and Waterloo Bridge. These are all in Zone 1, relatively concentrated, and must-sees on a classic London tour.

From childhood memories, the most striking is Big Ben. Big Ben to London is like the Eiffel Tower to Paris or the Statue of Liberty to New York. Big Ben has chimed accurately for centuries, despite fires and bombings. Sadly, no historical relic can withstand the erosion of time. To prevent Big Ben from stopping forever, it officially entered a four-year renovation period in 2017, greatly limiting visitors' viewing.

Piccadilly Circus

In the classic transition shot of Sherlock, you see Piccadilly Circus in every episode's opening. This square also appears on many London postcards. It's close to Chinatown, Regent Street, and the West End theaters, where five major streets converge to form a very busy commercial ring.

The steps around the central statue of Eros are often filled with people. Even at midnight, it's lively. In season 4 episode 2 "The Lying Detective," Sherlock and fake Faith walk down this street. Notably, around Christmas each year, Regent Street is hung with angel lights, making the street bright as day.

221B Baker Street

221B, as Holmes's home, is the most important pilgrimage for all fans. Although 221B exists, due to traffic, Sherlock wasn't filmed on Baker Street. If you follow Google Maps, you might be led to a small road near Euston Road: 187 North Gower Street, London NW1 2NJ. You'll recognize it by the Speedy cafe downstairs.

Actually, the real 221B Baker Street address is the Sherlock Holmes Museum. But it's not far from the TV set, so you can visit both places. The museum's exterior is very unassuming; you might think it's just a roadside house. But inside, it's quite different. Novel fans will feel a sense of familiarity and warmth.

Soho

In season 1 episode 1 "A Study in Scarlet," when Holmes and Watson chase a taxi to find missing luggage, the complex and winding route maps in Holmes's mind correspond to London's Soho. This artistic area of narrow alleys and old streets turns into a nightclubbing street at night.

London Chinatown

In season 1 episode 2 "The Blind Banker," the scene of the maneki-neko shop was not filmed here but in the Chinatown of Newport, Wales. Located in the city center, close to Piccadilly Circus, it's lively during Chinese festivals with festive decorations. There are many good Chinese restaurants, a Chinese supermarket, and free Chinese newspapers.

Trafalgar Square

Appears in both season 1 episode 3 "The Great Game" and season 2 episode 3 "The Hounds of Baskerville." It's London's most famous square, also called Pigeon Square or Lion Square. Street performers entertain here, creating a great atmosphere.

A classic joke from the original book comes from the fountain in Trafalgar Square. In "The Noble Bachelor," when Inspector Lestrade says he has sent men to drag the Serpentine in Hyde Park for the body of Lady St. Simon, Holmes laughs: "You didn't try the fountain in Trafalgar Square? Chances of finding her there are as good as anywhere." Everyone knows the fountain in Trafalgar Square is large but only ankle-deep... you can imagine the joke. The creators of Sherlock knew this well, so they deliberately had Sherlock and Watson walk past the fountain multiple times, with the fountain clearly in the foreground, and even as they ascend the steps of the National Gallery, the fountain remains in the background.

Buckingham Palace

In season 2 episode 1 "A Scandal in Belgravia," Sherlock, fresh out of a bath and wrapped in a sheet, is "invited" to Buckingham Palace. However, only exterior shots were used; interiors were filmed at the Goldsmiths' Hall. Watson's first interior shot is the banqueting hall of the Goldsmiths' Hall.

Buckingham Palace is one of the British Queen's three official residences. It is open to the public in summer. Additionally, the Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place around 11 a.m. daily in summer (lasting about 45 minutes). You can also try to see if the Queen is in residence—if the Royal Standard is flying, she is at home.

In season 3 episode 2 "The Sign of Three," there are also scenes related to the soldier's death here. Interestingly, the guards at Buckingham Palace wear gray uniforms in winter and the iconic red uniforms in summer. Since many tourists come to watch the Changing of the Guard, arrive early for the best spot! Also, watch your valuables, as there are many pickpockets nearby.

St. Paul's Cathedral

St. Paul's Cathedral is the most frequently appearing building in Sherlock, popping up in various transition shots as a background. The most memorable is in season 2 episode 3 "The Reichenbach Fall," where Holmes and Moriarty face off on the roof.

St. Paul's is a typical Baroque cathedral, beautiful not only for its huge dome but also for its two symmetrical bell towers. Across the Millennium Bridge over the Thames, you can reach Tate Modern. Apart from the film scenes, this bridge is well worth a visit.

Russell Square

In season 1 episode 1, Watson meets an old friend here, and the story begins. It's a small park in central London, surprisingly quiet, surrounded by ancient buildings, great for photos. It's also close to the British Museum. You can sit in the park, watch pigeons and squirrels, then stroll to the British Museum.

Sea Life London Aquarium

This is a heartbreaking scene for many. In season 4 episode 1 "The Six Thatchers," Mary is shot here while saving Sherlock, and Watson falls into endless grief. This also becomes a major trigger for the rift between Sherlock and Watson. Opened in 1997, this aquarium is now the largest and most spectacular marine life exhibition in Europe.

Interestingly, there were many young male visitors lingering in the tunnel, pointing at a mermaid statue in a bikini. The aquarium manager said they had never noticed how well-endowed the mermaid was. To encourage these young people to pay more attention to the aquatic creatures, the aquarium decided to cover the mermaid's chest with a bikini.

In December 1893, Sherlock Holmes, in the original story "The Final Problem," fell off a cliff with his lifelong nemesis, their fates unknown. Watson wrote: "With a heavy heart, I take up my pen to write these last words, to commemorate the unparalleled talents of my friend Mr. Sherlock Holmes." Perhaps Holmes's story is over, perhaps season 5 is nowhere to be found, but whether in the Victorian era or the 21st century, whether in the foggy industrial city or today's financial hub, as the saying goes, "If you are tired of London, you are tired of life." London remains a city that can hold and capture everyone's emotions.

The Peak District, as the name suggests.

But the mountains here are not as towering as Huashan; they are more like rolling hills stretching for hundreds of kilometers. The Peak District is dotted with many small towns, the most famous being Castleton, Edale, Hope, and Bamford. Trains from London, Sheffield, and Manchester go directly here. Buses also connect the towns. Self-driving is even more convenient. If you need to stay overnight, I suggest driving to Hope, the valley town at the center, and staying there. It's convenient to access all major attractions in the Peak District. Fortunately, my major is tourism management, and I went with my advisor three or four times over the years.

I still remember the joy of receiving an email from Peter shortly after school started. Peter is my professor—a jovial, portly old man. He said, "Dear students, we will visit Chatsworth House next week. Of course, it has a more familiar name in China—Darcy's Manor." Darcy's Manor comes from Jane Austen's novel Pride and Prejudice, which tells the story of five unmarried daughters of a small country gentleman, with the protagonist being the second daughter, Elizabeth. She meets Darcy at a ball but initially rejects him due to his pride. After many twists, Elizabeth overcomes her prejudice, Darcy puts aside his pride, and the lovers end up together. The 2005 film adaptation starring Keira Knightley was filmed in the Peak District, and Darcy's Manor in the film is the real Chatsworth.

Since 1549, this estate has been the seat of the Duke of Devonshire but is open to the public. The castle sits among rolling green fields, and inside it houses many precious paintings, furniture, neoclassical sculptures, and books, each displaying aristocratic style and luxury. Chatsworth House has been repeatedly voted one of Britain's most popular estates.

Near Bakewell town, besides Chatsworth House, there's also the Monsal Trail. That name gives me a headache, of course because after this railway ruin, Peter assigned us a 3,000-word poster with pictures. But just the scenery is worth it. The 20-mile Monsal Trail is a classic hiking route in the Peak District.

This time, I might not be so lucky. At first, we were invited to visit various estates and ruins. Then it became purely wild. In late January, British winter is often rainy. Our handbook said this course required us to hike the Peak District for geological sustainable development survey, and that week we encountered a rare snowstorm.

Apart from the days spent in the classroom for theory, we had to tough it out. I don't know how many times I rolled in the snow like a donkey. Although many scenes lost color in the snow and fog, stepping in mud, climbing cliffs, and walking on narrow paths gave this journey a special meaning.

In others' cameras, the网红 cliff looked like an Instagram masterpiece. But under my advisor's guidance, standing next to the 1.9-meter Greek giants in my class, I was just a dwarf publicly executed. The icy rocks were slippery, and I very timidly crawled down. My professor joked that I looked like an old woman in a mobility scooter at the supermarket.

Hope Valley is also a classic hiking route in the Peak District. This ridge is exactly the dividing line between the Dark Peak in the north and the White Peak in the south. The view from the top is stunning. There are also typical British cottages, with residents and shopkeepers planting flowers and small trees in their yards, looking very lovely.

Other times, when writing my thesis drove me to depression, a few classmates and I would throw down the mouse and hike through a dark forest at 4 a.m. to see the sunrise. Although it was the same endless meadows of the Peak District, there was no Mr. Darcy coming through the morning mist to confess his love. Instead, after watching the sunrise, we nervously returned to our 20-square-meter dorm to rush towards the final deadline.

Finally, we loop back to Buxton, a spa town on the edge of the Peak District, surrounded by the national park. Buxton water, often seen in British supermarkets, comes from here. I remember when I first came to the UK, I complained about the tap water in the Peak District. My friend was shocked, saying, "This is a treasure! Many people wish they could drink it!" So, I cupped my hands and drank it...

"Football is embedded in our culture, in our DNA. From the moment we are born, football is with us, never leaves," said David Beckham.

The internet has a memory. I looked through my QQ space and saw that from 2014 until now, I've never given up my passion for football. I was really into Neymar. In the 2014 World Cup, when he was injured, my heart broke. When we are young, we express our love for someone or something loudly, to the fullest. I remember sneaking out of bed in the middle of the night in college to follow the match, saving money to buy figurines, jerseys, autographs, and even going across the ocean to watch a game...

In contrast, in the UK, the birthplace of football, watching a match is as common as eating pizza in Italy or drinking coffee in Paris. There's no standout team like China's national team; British football is diverse. Nowadays, the existing top clubs in the UK are mostly in England: Chelsea, Arsenal, Manchester United, Liverpool, and others like Manchester City, Tottenham; in Scotland: Celtic and Rangers; in Wales: The New Saints and Barry Town; in Northern Ireland: Linfield, Glentoran, and Crusaders.

LY said he found British people's love for football exceptionally fanatical. I also discovered that whether it's the quadrennial World Cup or the annual Premier League, during the matches, fans wear their team's jerseys, carry support items, and sing team songs through the streets. At that moment, you might have a new understanding of this gentlemanly and rigid country. At the end of last month, Liverpool won the first Premier League title in history with a massive 23-point lead over Manchester City, and Liverpool fans waited 30 years for this moment. But this year, due to the pandemic, they had to share the joy on TV screens.

Liverpool seems like a mysterious city. Every time I went there, it was on a whim. Those whims often led me to miss the last train. At Lime Street Station, I was either half-asleep or dragging a drunken friend.

My mind wandered back to June 2, 2019, the night of the Champions League final. It was early summer in the UK. Bars large and small in Liverpool were packed. Whether inside or in the backyard, fans were elbow to elbow. During the match, beads of sweat slid down the painted cheeks and into the rough scarves. I couldn't stand the noise and heat anymore.

We squeezed through the crowd and slipped out the back door. We found a rooftop. That was the first time I watched a full match on a rooftop with locals. Around us, foreigners with fish and chips or beer in hand waved their fists and commented on the game, food crumbs stuck to their thick stubble or sunburned necks and cheeks.

The moment Liverpool beat Tottenham Hotspur 2-0, the firebird was reborn at Anfield, and Liverpool's classic anthem echoed in our ears.

After leaving Liverpool, the first choice to return to Manchester was still the train. Unlike driving, which requires high concentration and tension, here you can let your mind drift, close your eyes, and enjoy the intracranial high from headphones. Unlike the monotonous scenery of the road, you never know what you'll see when you open your eyes next: a naive sheep lagging behind in the countryside or the striking logo of a food factory on the outskirts.

In my memory, during the eight months I lived in Manchester, I rarely saw the city clear. The faded red brick walls built during the Industrial Revolution hid in the rain, telling the glorious history of Manchester's industrial past.

Old Trafford, as the home of Manchester United, can be reached by tram or bus 250, X5Express from Piccadilly Gate. You can not only visit the museum but also enter the stadium, the players' dressing rooms, the press conference room, and other facilities.

A friend said his initial desire to visit this stadium came from a photo of Beckham being substituted by his son Brooklyn.

During matches, taking DSLRs in the stands is not allowed, but some people use small mirrorless cameras. If you want an autograph, you need to block the players' tunnel early. But it's better to check the live score before leaving, because if the player's team didn't win, they often don't give autographs.

If London is busy with investments, securities, exhibitions, and street life, Edinburgh has stuck to its most primitive British quality for centuries. This famous Scottish capital is where J.K. Rowling created the world-famous Harry Potter series, and the city's dark architecture makes Edinburgh a magical world that has lasted for centuries.

Edinburgh Castle

"In the distance, wind pipes play; I only care about news of you. The castle guards secrets for love, and I guard memories for you." Humming Jay Chou's "Ming Ming Jiu," I stepped into this most familiar castle, standing on an extinct volcano. Once an important royal residence, military fortress, and prison in history, it is a key witness to Scottish history.

Victoria Street

On the way down from the castle, don't miss this special downhill street. Colorful shops line the curved street on both sides, like a rainbow pouring down. It is said to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, where young Harry bought his first wand.

Royal Mile

From Edinburgh Castle, you come to the Royal Mile. "This is not only the most spacious and beautiful street in the UK, but probably in the world." In 1724, Daniel Defoe wrote this in Robinson Crusoe. This one-mile commercial pedestrian street connects Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. Street performers are everywhere—some dress as statues or dolls, some play the accordion in kilts, some perform juggling and interact passionately with tourists. But remember to tip them when taking photos.

Shops on both sides sell handicrafts and cashmere scarves. I really recommend Johnstons of Elgin cashmere scarves. This century-old brand offers many styles at reasonable prices, and it's said to share the same production line as Burberry.

Calton Hill

One of Edinburgh's iconic landmarks. Although called a hill, it's actually a large mound. It took us less than 10 minutes to climb from the base to the top. From the top, you can overlook all of Edinburgh and even see the blue Firth of Forth. I suggest coming at sunset; it's breathtakingly beautiful. Earlier this year, when I visited the Acropolis in Athens, I kept feeling a sense of familiarity. Now I know that the same magnificent ancient Greek architecture I enjoyed on Calton Hill was a prelude.

Scott Monument

If you pass by North Bridge, you definitely can't miss this tall Gothic structure. I remember it was raining that day, and Scott stood like a ghost in the bustling street.

National Museum of Scotland

I'm more into humanities and nature, so I thought the Scottish Museum was absolutely stunning.

People are strange. There are always unexpected surprises. For example, that day at the museum, I unexpectedly saw the stuffed sheep Dolly, which I had only seen in primary school textbooks. I was so excited I almost screamed. On the other hand, the things I had prepared for, like Van Gogh's Sunflowers at the Van Gogh Museum or the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, didn't give me that same thrill when viewing them behind the crowds.

Game of Thrones season 8 ended over a year ago, but people are still immersed in the vast medieval fantasy world the author created. Yet, even though it's fiction, when vivid characters appear on screen, the real and beautiful landscapes can be traced. Whether it's King's Landing in Croatia, the Water Gardens in Spain, or Iceland beyond the Wall, most filming locations are in the castles and valleys of Northern Ireland.

Titanic Museum

Starting from Belfast, our first stop was the Titanic Museum. In 2012, London architecture firm CivicArts and local firm Todd Architects collaborated to design this building.

It's not just a traditional Titanic museum. The six-floor building presents nine interpretive and interactive exhibition spaces, recording every moment from the Titanic's design to its sinking, as well as the city and people who built her, the passengers who sailed on her, and the scientists who later discovered her.

Iron Throne

Among these, the painting hall is also the filming location for Bran's bedroom and the meeting hall of the Black Castle in Game of Thrones. Notably, the most famous Iron Throne is also located in this museum! The Iron Throne is a lump of jagged, twisted metal full of spikes and sharp edges. The backrest also has many spikes, making it uncomfortable to sit on and impossible to lean back. Conqueror Aegon said a king should not sit comfortably, so he deliberately ordered the throne to be made this way.

Aegon I Targaryen, the first conqueror of the Seven Kingdoms. He had his dragon Balerion the Black Dread melt down thousands of swords dropped by enemies in surrender. It took 59 days to forge the throne. In the books, the Iron Throne is described as tall and twisted, about ten meters high, made of a thousand swords, with high steps made of swords, and the king's seat is among thorn-like blades. In the TV series, the Iron Throne is noticeably smaller to save budget.

Belfast City Hall

The ground floor is free to visitors. In 1888, Queen Victoria officially chartered Belfast as a city. Construction of this city hall began in 1898 and was completed in 1906. It is one of Belfast's landmarks, located at Donegall Square in the city center. There is also a Ferris wheel next to the city hall.

Peace Wall

We then passed the International Wall. The entire street is filled with striking, exaggerated murals and powerful slogans telling the stories of Irish national heroes and the Republican Army. Compared to the bright International Wall, the Peace Wall, located between Falls and Shankill roads in the west, had a noticeably more desolate atmosphere. Apart from tourists, there were almost no pedestrians.

These walls, six to seven meters high and stretching 15 kilometers, were once used to separate Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods and were the sites of the most intense conflicts in Belfast during the Troubles. Belfast may not have the most graffiti, but in terms of political themes, there is probably no city that surpasses it.

The Dark Hedges

In the early morning, amidst dense fog, we arrived at the Dark Hedges in the outskirts of Belfast. A whole avenue of beech trees lined both sides, casting shadows and light, like a witch's spell. Robb Stark walked this road to Winterfell to ask Ned to serve as Hand of the King. Just a few months later, after Ned's execution, Arya begins her escape on this road.

Giant's Causeway

Legend says that in ancient times, the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill wanted to fight the Scottish giant Benandonner. To defeat him, Fionn began building a causeway across the Atlantic Ocean to Scotland. After completing it, he went home to sleep, preparing to cross and attack. But Benandonner came over first to survey the enemy. Seeing the sleeping Fionn, who was huge, he was startled. Fionn's wife cleverly told him that the sleeping giant was her newborn baby. Benandonner, terrified that if the baby was this huge, the father must be enormous, fled back to Scotland, destroying the causeway behind him. Only remnants of basalt columns remain, extending from the cliffs into the sea.

Ballintoy Harbour

This is the port of the Iron Islands. Robb Stark declares himself King in the North and goes to war with the Lannisters. Theon betrays his brother and leads the ironborn to attack Winterfell. These scenes were filmed on the coast of the Iron Islands. Theon returns to his homeland after many years and meets his sister Yara here. Ballintoy Harbour is picturesque. Walking up the path leads to Ballintoy village, and you can feel the strong Irish fishing village atmosphere.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

The bridge is a 20-meter-long, single-file rope bridge that can only accommodate eight people at a time. It is said to be the bridge where old Greyjoy fell. Since the actor fell on a green screen, this is unverifiable.

Caves of Cushendun

Heading south, after 30 minutes we passed the Caves of Cushendun. Located by the sea, these are limestone caves. Inside, the rocks are jagged and dark, but outside the landscape is beautiful. In Game of Thrones, this is the Stormlands where Melisandre gives birth to the shadow assassin that kills Renly, with Davos present.

Castle Ward in County Down

Located on Strangford Lough, overlooking the sea, this is the filming location for Winterfell. It should be considered the beginning of the series. The first time I saw it, I felt its eerie, cold tone.

Tollymore Forest Park

This forest is dense, with caves, rocks, rivers, and bridges interwoven. After Eddard Stark executes the deserter from the Night's Watch, he takes his children through the northern forest. Here, each Stark child gets a direwolf. It is also where Bran goes north, and the Children of the Forest create the first White Walker.

This is the last story I want to share about the UK, and also a conclusion to this travelogue.

Again, no structure, just casual writing.

The week before going to Swansea was probably the lowest point in these years. But I blamed it all on the continuous rain of early spring in the UK.

All emotions finally exploded one afternoon.

So I called a friend and asked, sobbing, "Can I come stay with you for a while? I need a change of scenery. My boyfriend and I broke up."

My friend hesitated, then said, "Come on over."

The city where my friend studied is called Swansea, a seaside town in Wales. Looking at the map, I had to zoom in twice to see it. But it was better than my current city, which was full of mutual friends and heart-tugging memories.

The first evening, I saw a beautiful beach outside my friend's apartment. Before that, I always thought the sea in the UK was ugly. The sea under the temperate maritime climate always gives off a gray, gloomy, cold vibe. I prefer the Mediterranean, where the sun shines directly on the blue, transparent water.

The next day, I insisted on going to Rhossili Bay, which the train travel brochures had been promoting as the most beautiful beach in the UK. They said lovers who go there stay together forever.

Basically, even in such a sad situation, I still wanted to fulfill the pretentious, pseudo-literary girl act.

My friend yelled at me, "What are you going for? You're broken up, and still want to go? Can't you see it's pouring outside?"

I was used to my friend's way of talking; we always teased each other like this, without regard for seniority.

I don't remember which day it was, but when the rain let up a bit, we still took the bus to Rhossili Bay. My friend asked, "Do you know the origin of Swansea's name?"

I said, "Swan and sea."

"Is there any special meaning?" I was hoping there would be a beautiful legend like the one about hundred-year-old mountains.

Rhossili's sea was still gray, the sky gray. This most beautiful beach in the UK had only a few of us standing in the wind, our hair messy and expressions twisted.

The wind howled, whipping up the waves and crashing them onto the fine sand. The rocks were also sharp.

Not everything is as beautiful as you expect.

His roommates could play guitar, cook, tell jokes, and write code. I remember those days; aside from shedding tears when the Bear Girl died in the updated Game of Thrones season 8, the rest of the time I was laughing.

Before I left, I suddenly remembered that I also have a group of lovely friends. I seemed to have neglected them for a long time.

We would go together to LiDL and Waitrose near the dorm to buy groceries. On weekends, we'd go to bigger suburban supermarkets to stock up. The boys would help carry drinks and heavier fruits and vegetables and meat, while the girls carried vegetables and kept the accounts. Occasionally, we'd buy a bunch of flowers on sale to put in the kitchen.

Today, we praised Xiao A's braised pork as soft and delicious; tomorrow, we criticized Xiao B's broccoli for being under-salted and underseasoned. In a foreign country where takeaways and Chinese food aren't as developed, we spent hours on meals every day to take care of our stomachs, yet we always found joy in it.

Occasionally, we drank and went clubbing. Foreign nightlife is simpler. We would talk for a week or two about who got drunk and made a fool of themselves or some little gossip that came out.

This is the real life of studying abroad—bitter and sweet—not just soaking in the honey of romance, being a little girl dependent on others.

On the way back, I thought a lot. Only now, I put pen to paper.

It turns out that all along, I was clamoring for a ritual farewell to the UK, but I only wanted to make peace with myself.

I'm glad I did.

Travelogue Table of Contents

1. Preface

2. Walking Through the British Museum | Searching for Memories Lost Across the Ocean

3. Standing on London's Old Bridge | Paying Tribute to Mr. Holmes Who Traveled Through Time

4. Hiking Through the Misty Peak District | Revisiting the Estate of Pride and Prejudice

5. Shedding Tears at Anfield | Cheering for the Rebirth of the Firebird

6. Strolling Through Edinburgh | Holding the Hogwarts Acceptance Letter

7. Getting Lost in the Secret Realm of Northern Ireland | Retracing the Path of Ice and Fire