September 2023 Journey from Shanghai to the UK for Daughter's Studies - Wales Chapter

On September 18, I officially said goodbye to my daughter. I hugged my little one once more. She had never been away from us before, and now she was to start her independent life in the UK, while I began my own journey of exploring Wales. Wales, officially the Principality of Wales, is one of the political entities of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. Cardiff is the capital of Wales. Travel from Bristol to Cardiff is very convenient, with frequent train services taking less than an hour to reach Cardiff. In Wales, all road signs are written in both Welsh and English. This was my first close encounter with this ancient land originally settled by the Celts.

Walking south along Bute Park all the way to the end brings you to Cardiff's landmark—Cardiff Castle. This castle has a history of nearly 2,000 years, dating back to the Roman era in the 1st century AD. After the Norman conquest of England, a fortress was built on the site, later augmented with numerous medieval fortifications and residences. The castle was owned by various noble families until it passed by marriage to the Bute family, Scottish coal magnates, in 1766. It is worth noting that the Bute family, one of the most important aristocratic families in British history, had a decisive influence on the transformation of Cardiff.

At the heart of the castle is the Norman Keep built by the Normans, the best-preserved keep in Wales. Climbing the steep stone steps to the top observation platform offers a panoramic view of Cardiff's cityscape. Around the castle there is also a network of tunnels with loopholes and defensive measures, connected to the central keep. The design is well thought out and well preserved, and its scale is awe-inspiring.

From time to time, I encountered homeless people in Cardiff city center, sitting quietly outside supermarkets, hoping that people coming and going would give them some money or food. Turning into the old streets, many Victorian and Edwardian buildings remain, offering a wide selection of food and goods. In the evening, I ate at a Thai restaurant and gobbled down two bowls of rice, mainly because the curry was delicious. I even asked the waiter for chopsticks.

The hotel for the night was quite nice, though the internet was a bit slow. Considering its convenient location—just a five-minute walk to the train station and right in the city center—the quaint Royal Hotel Cardiff is highly recommended.

Cardiff City Hall is a building with European Renaissance features. I heard that this historic hall not only serves as a wedding venue for witnessing many couples' happy moments but also often functions as an exam hall during exam seasons, accommodating hundreds of candidates. The marble hall houses many precious artifacts, and the meeting rooms are also worth visiting. Right next to it is the Cardiff Museum. When I passed by on the first day, I went to make a reservation and was received by an elderly gentleman who said I could visit the next day. However, when I arrived the next day, a female receptionist said it was closed due to exhibition setup. After hearing my explanation, she said I could go in but could not enter the rooms being set up for safety. That seemed reasonable enough.

After visiting the City Hall, I went to the neighboring museum. The National Museum Cardiff is located on the road from the castle and city center to Cardiff University, a prestigious century-old British university. As the most prominent landmark on the university's periphery, it is also the largest museum in all of Wales. The mammoth and dinosaur skeletons were impressive. The interactive areas were quite large, so I saw many children there.

Llandaff Cathedral (Welsh: Eglwys Gadeiriol Llandaff) is a Church in Wales cathedral and parish church located in Llandaff, Cardiff. It is the seat of the Bishop of Llandaff, the leader of the Church in Wales in the Diocese of Llandaff. This cathedral is quite old and remote; if you don't have enough time, it's not recommended. However, from there I went to a Hong Kong-style restaurant in the Chinese community, experiencing the retro decor and dining environment surrounded by Cantonese-speaking uncles and aunties. I also visited the residential area near Llandaff Cathedral, just as primary and secondary school students were finishing school, and I saw their cheerful faces and expressions.

On September 20, I took a train from Cardiff to Swansea in less than an hour. British trains are quite flexible with changes; sometimes the platform changes, or a train gets cancelled and you have to wait for the next one. I asked several passengers and platform staff before I finally confirmed which train I could take. But other passengers on the platform seemed quite accepting of such changes, taking them in stride.

My accommodation in Swansea was amazing—a four-star hotel called Morgans Hotel. I didn't choose the main building; I chose a cheaper option in a building across the street, which was also very good. I arrived before check-in time, and the hotel staff immediately arranged an early check-in. The location was a stone's throw from the old town and the waterfront. One moment the area was bustling with crowds, and around the corner it was peaceful and serene. Everywhere I looked, there were century-old buildings.

As a coastal city, it would be a shame not to visit the seaside. I highly recommend going to the upscale western suburb to explore its marina, Swansea Marina, to see the small yachts. This is a marina for private boats, close to the city center. There are also many distinctive restaurants and bars around the marina worth a visit.

In the evening, I dined in the lakeside area, but not the core part, enjoying delicious mussels and pasta paired with white wine—a leisurely evening.

Most tourists visiting Swansea head to Rhossili Bay, voted one of the top ten beaches in the world. The view of the sea from the cliffs is stunning. It takes about an hour by bus from the city center. Since my itinerary was tight, I skipped it this time.

Swansea Market, claimed to be the largest market in Wales, was already closing when I arrived near 5 p.m., so I didn't see the lively scene. Leaving the market, I wandered randomly through the old town, feeding pigeons and watching seabirds.

On September 21, I moved from Swansea to Conwy. Even though both are in Wales, the train required two transfers and finally went back to Birmingham in England to catch a train to Conwy, taking over five hours.

Conwy is a small town on the north coast of Wales, very medieval in atmosphere. It faces the town of Deganwy across the River Conwy. The name Conwy comes from the Old Welsh 'cyn' (chief) and 'gwy' (water). The town is famous for Conwy Castle. It is small and beautiful, with a very tiny train station, and worth a night's stay.

After checking in, I strolled through the town. There are two main streets within the walls: one runs from the west barbican of the castle straight to the north wall, and the other extends from the Lower Gate near the river to the Upper Gate, crossing the first street in a cross. The layout remains the same today, and even St. Mary's Church still stands in its original place. Lancaster Square, with the statue of Llywelyn the Great, is the most popular center of the town, where I found an Italian restaurant still had a table and had dinner.

On September 22, it rained heavily, unfortunately. The B&B landlady, knowing I would go out early, brought breakfast to my room door very early. How considerate.

Conwy Castle is a masterpiece of medieval military architecture. It was built by Edward I to defend against external enemies, constructed between 1283 and 1289, over 700 years ago. Today, the castle and its walls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire small town of Conwy is enclosed by the castle walls, like a knight giving a sense of security and steadfast protection. The castle offers a Wall Walk, allowing you to walk along the top of the walls and overlook the whole town. From the castle, you can also see the full view of Conwy Suspension Bridge, the first road suspension bridge in the world, spanning the River Conwy.

The most notable feature of the castle is that the interior rooms are not interconnected; rooms cannot be entered from one another; each can only be reached via iron bridges from the ground, enhancing defensive capabilities. On the day I visited, there was strong wind and heavy rain. This non-interconnected design forced me to dash constantly between different towers in the rain, feeling quite disheveled.

Despite the severe weather that day, I did not give up on exploring. I walked across the bridge to Deganwy, the town across the River Conwy, and had a look around.

The town's train station is very small, with no ticket inspection. For trains running in opposite directions, you need to enter from different entrances—on each side of the bridge. A middle-aged man saw me struggling with my suitcase and took the initiative to guide me until I found the correct entrance. I was very grateful.

These days in Wales gave me a preliminary understanding of this ancient region. What impressed me most was that the wind near the coast is extremely strong; gloomy weather and windy beaches have become synonymous with Wales. Good restaurants still need to be booked in advance, and you can ask your accommodation host to help with reservations.

Tips for independent travel:

1. Book train tickets online in advance, e.g., on Trainline. Various combinations are available, and prices are much cheaper.

2. Trainline has a user-friendly interface with an app for scanning QR codes or printing e-tickets.

3. There is less online information for Wales travel. I recommend visiting in summer to see the sea.