18-Day 4,500 km Self-Drive Western USA Trip in July

Itinerary (July 7–24, 2016)

Main stops in order: Universal Studios Hollywood; Santa Monica State Beach; Sequoia National Park; Las Vegas; Hoover Dam; Williams; Grand Canyon National Park; Dead Horse Point State Park; Moab; Arches National Park; Salt Lake City; Alpine; Grand Teton National Park; Jackson; Yellowstone National Park.

7/7 Day 1: Depart from Shanghai, transit via Beijing to Los Angeles.

Los Angeles is 15 hours behind Beijing. That evening, pick up the rental car at the Avis counter at Los Angeles Airport, then check into Best Western Woodland Hills Inn $142.39.

Flight info 1:

2016-07-07 CA1558 SHA 14:55 – 17:10 PEK

2016-07-07 CA 983 PEK 21:00 – 18:00 LAX

7/8 Day 2: Thrilling Los Angeles: Universal Studios Hollywood and Santa Monica State Beach. Stay in Los Angeles again.

Universal Studios Hollywood, built from the 20th-century Hollywood film lot, offers a combination of shows, 3D/4D experiences, roller coasters, and more. It is the number one attraction in Los Angeles. The day was extremely crowded; each ride had a wait of 30 minutes to 2 hours or more. We experienced four themes: WaterWorld, The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Revenge of the Mummy roller coaster, and Studio Tour. It felt like stepping into a wonderful virtual world—exciting and thrilling. Two of the rides made our hearts race, scream, and get weak in the knees. Absolutely worth it.

On-site Universal Studios Hollywood ticket prices: adult $115, child $109.

The Wizarding World of Harry Potter

After queuing 1.5 hours for Transformers, the line was still long and uncertain, so we had to give up—a small regret. This scene at the entrance: Transformers, the Heroes of Americans.

Passing through Santa Monica State Beach on Highway 1, we chose a high-end place to have authentic Italian food and paid a hefty tip. Our first formal dinner was a splurge!

7/9 Day 3: Shopping in Los Angeles during the day to prepare necessities for the long road trip. In the evening, drive from Camarillo, Los Angeles, to Visalia, check into Econo Lodge Sequoia $192.50. About 300 km, 3 hours drive.

We prepared well before shopping: downloaded coupons from Camarillo Premium Outlets official website, checked the brand layout, then searched for desired items with a purpose. Even so, due to limited energy and time, we missed a few brands.

7/10 Day 4: From Visalia, California, to General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. 88 km, 1.5 hours. Visit the giant sequoias during the day, return to Visalia at night.

Sequoia National Park is the third national park in U.S. history and the second oldest (the first is Yellowstone). It is home to many ancient giant sequoias, thousands of years old and 20–30 stories tall. The General Sherman Tree is the largest living organism on Earth, often called the 'World's Big Tree.' Before them, and before nature, humans seem so small.

Six-year-old Zhuang Zhuang crouched under a tree and took photos of two big trees with his child's camera from his unique perspective. Isn't that different?

We purchased an America the Beautiful Annual Pass for $80. Valid for one year, covers two vehicles, and grants access to all national parks in the U.S.

7/11 Day 5: From Visalia to Las Vegas. Check into New York New York $120.96. 570 km, 5.5 hours. Watch KA Show (O Show was suspended) and enjoy the night scenery in the evening.

Located in the heart of the Nevada desert, Las Vegas is a consumer paradise. Besides casinos, it offers top-tier international shows, concerts, boxing matches, resorts, outlets, and high-end boutiques to satisfy various needs. Even after midnight, the Las Vegas lights are still brilliant, showing no signs of sleepiness.

The KA Show is a spectacular, thrilling, and well-produced performance combining acrobatics, martial arts, puppetry, and fireworks. It is considered Cirque du Soleil's masterpiece. Many brilliant parts drew applause from the audience, and it ended with a climax of fireworks. On-site KA Show ticket price: $88.16.

7/12 Day 6: In the morning, visit Lake Mead and Hoover Dam. In the afternoon, shop at Las Vegas South Premium Outlets. Stay in Las Vegas again.

Hoover Dam is 55 km from Las Vegas, 40 minutes drive. The sun is intense, temperature above 42°C. Known as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Hoover Dam supplies all electricity and water for Las Vegas and is called the 'Diamond of the Desert.' It is because of this dam that the neon lights of the desert city of Las Vegas never go out. Many Hollywood disaster movies feature close-ups of Hoover Dam; Transformers also filmed there.

Lake Mead is the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere and a very important water engineering project. Looking down at Hoover Dam and Lake Mead from a high vantage point, one marvels at the wisdom and effort behind such a massive project.

7/13 Day 7: From Las Vegas, pass through Williams, Arizona, to Grand Canyon National Park to watch the sunset. 450 km, 4.3 hours. Check into Red Feather Lodge $149.72.

Williams may be small but has an unusual history. The town was named after the famous early hunter and guide William Sherley Williams. This Route 66 town is considered the gateway to the Grand Canyon. In 1881, the first post office opened; in 1882, when the railroad arrived, the town had over 250 residents. Today, the streets are filled with souvenir shops, most selling items related to the famous Route 66.

In a gift shop, I found a slogan all women love: 'Your husband just called and said "you can buy anything you want."'

7/14 Day 8: Continue viewing the Grand Canyon in the morning. In the afternoon, drive from Grand Canyon to Moab, Utah. 524 km, 5.3 hours. Check into Hotel Moab Downtown $149.28.

The Grand Canyon, carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, has a maximum depth of about 1,500 meters and is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Many Chinese tourists visit here; we could hear our native tongue everywhere. We entered the park near sunset the previous evening. The slanting sunset rays shone on the red mountaintops, making them glow fiery red and translucent, contrasting with the darkening colors of the middle and lower parts. The mountains undulated in vastness, displaying the unique ruggedness and grandeur of the American West to its fullest. Due to limitations of camera sensitivity and lens, the actual view was far more layered and stunning than the photos.

Leaving the Grand Canyon, we drove through the Indian reservation toward Utah via highways 64, 160, and 191. During the 500 km drive, the scenery was magnificent all the way.

Highway 64 continues the Grand Canyon scenery, allowing close-up views of the canyon's grand appearance.

Highway 160 passes by the edge of the famous Monument Valley; this is where Forrest Gump ran and also a backdrop for Transformers 4.

Highway 191 transitions from desert to oasis, with increasing vegetation, occasional jumping rabbits and deer, and endless open fields dotted with oddly shaped ochre rock formations. As the sun set, the sky glowed red; approaching Moab, the almost horizontal sunlight gilded the grassland.

Just outside Moab, we saw our first arch – Wilson Arch, a warm welcome!

Most photos were taken in a split second while driving at high speed; many more beautiful roadside scenes were inevitably missed.

7/15 Day 9: Morning at Dead Horse Point State Park, afternoon at Arches National Park. Stay in Moab again.

Dead Horse Point State Park is another viewpoint for canyon country. Driving to the high point offers a panoramic view of the Colorado Plateau. The view is so open that even I, who rarely takes selfies, couldn't resist taking a 'been here' photo. The drop to the Colorado River valley is about 2,000 feet, creating a sense of vast emptiness. The films Thelma & Louise and Mission: Impossible II were shot here. Park entrance fee: $10 per vehicle.

At the high point, we coincidentally met two foreign beauties and a 1966 green Thunderbird – a perfect match to a scene from Thelma & Louise!

Arches National Park: Over hundreds of millions of years, the marine salt layer underwent crustal changes and natural erosion to form the world's largest concentration of natural sandstone arches. Standing there, one can't help but wonder if we are still on Earth. The park has more than 2,000 arches, including iconic ones like Balance Rock, Double Arch, and Delicate Arch – the symbol of Utah.

Double Arch: Looking up from the front, it resembles King Kong spreading his enormous arms, squatting and showing his power. Is this giant gorilla from another planet, traveling through a time tunnel?

Balance Rock

At 6:30 p.m., when the sun began to shine at a 60-degree angle, we decisively drove to the main attraction of the day – Delicate Arch at sunset. After getting out of the car, we shouldered our hiking packs, followed the Heat Kills advisory, carried a few pounds of water, and hiked 4.8 km along the primitive trail marked by small stones up steep rocks and mountain paths. When we saw the glowing orange Delicate Arch under the setting sun, all the sunburned faces lit up with joy and satisfaction. Witnessing another wonder of the Earth – this trip was worth it!

Heat Kills advisory sign

Hikers all carried several pounds of water

Primitive trail markers made of small stones

We encountered a few trees along the way, dry and twisted, with no bark at the bottom but lush green leaves at the top.

Delicate Arch, unlike other arches, is hidden among giant rocks, standing alone on the peak of a stone mountain with cliffs on both sides. It truly deserves to be the symbol of Utah.

7/16 Day 10: From Moab, pass through Salt Lake City, Idaho, to Alpine, Wyoming. 800 km, 7.5 hours. Check into Flying Saddle Resort and Steak House $156.45.

Salt Lake is very wide, with a feeling of turquoise sea and blue sky from a distance. Walking across the beach and swamp, the stench grew stronger. When I stopped by the lake, swarms of black flying insects immediately surrounded me, reminding me of the locusts described in a high school English textbook about Salt Lake City. This attraction is best enjoyed from a distance, not up close!

Speeding along Idaho Highway 34, farms, grasslands, forests, and rivers complemented each other.

Changing our plans on the spur of the moment to stay in Alpine turned out to be an unexpected bonus – such beautiful scenery and ambiance. There is a small river called Snake River flowing quietly in sunset, nourishing everything, as pristine as a paradise on earth.

The sunset dyed the clouds red; they seemed on fire, brilliantly dancing before my eyes. My heart was intoxicated – perhaps this was the legendary 'fire clouds'!

In the morning, the town transformed into a maiden, fresh and pretty.

Alpine is also a winter ski resort, said to rival Swiss scenery. It is the kind of town I love!

7/17 Day 11: From Alpine to Grand Teton National Park. 60 km, 45 minutes. Visit Grand Teton National Park during the day. Check into Antler Inn in Jackson Hole town $181.50.

Snake River winds along one side of the highway; the beautiful scenery along the way made us stop and linger.

Grand Teton National Park is located in the glacier mountains of northwestern Wyoming, established in 1929, covering 310,000 acres. It features the 4,198-meter-high Grand Teton peak, which is snow-covered year-round, and abundant wildlife such as bison and deer. It is known as the 'most beautiful national park.' Jenny Lake is the most famous glacial lake – compared to Jackson Lake, it is like a delicate, gentle Southern Chinese beauty. Jackson Lake, formed by damming the Snake River, is the largest body of water in the area, resembling a dignified and generous young lady from a noble family.

Entering Grand Teton from Alpine along the Snake River, the sky was clear at first, but on the return trip, it became overcast with thunder and lightning – but only over the Grand Teton peaks, and soon the clouds dissipated. The mountain climate is indeed magical.

Jackson town is a small town in northwestern Wyoming and a must-pass on the way to Yellowstone. We rested here for half a day, preparing for the highlight of our trip – Yellowstone National Park.

The center of town is Antler Park, famous for four arches made of elk antlers. It is said that every winter, elk herds from Yellowstone migrate to the National Elk Refuge to spend the winter; the next spring, the bulls naturally shed their antlers and grow a new set. These shed antlers are used to build and decorate the park arches, making the antler arches a symbol of Jackson town.

Cowboys and horse-drawn carriages, as seen in Western movies, are cruising the town streets recruiting tourists.

The green slopes on the distant mountains are traces from winter skiing.

7/18 Day 12: Yellowstone National Park (Day 1). From Jackson town, enter the park via the south entrance. Stay at OF Snow Lodge Western Cabin $186.00 ($99.00 without private bath) near Old Faithful Geyser.

The overall map of Yellowstone can be described by the Arabic numeral '8'.

Now we begin a visual feast. Are you ready? Follow me – Yellowstone, here we come!

First day: Explore the lower left part of the '8'. Main attractions include:

1. Fountain Paint Pot 2. Grand Prismatic Spring (Fairy Trail is closed) 3. Old Faithful Geyser

Charred trees show tenacious vitality – standing firm through wind and rain, even without lush green leaves, they proudly bloom the most beautiful posture of life!

7/19 Day 13: Yellowstone Day 2

From the southwest of the '8' via West Thumb Geyser Basin, travel to the southeast part of the lower half. Stay at Canyon Lodge Premium Lodge $248.00 in the Canyon Area.

Main attractions:

1. West Thumb Geyser Basin 2. Yellowstone Lake 3. Mud Volcano 4. Yellowstone Canyon 5. Upper Fall 6. Lower Fall 7. Hayden Valley 8. Petrified Forests

7/20 Day 14: Yellowstone Day 3

Visit the upper half of the '8'. Stay at Moose Creek Inn $197.90 in West Yellowstone.

Main attractions:

1. Tower Fall 2. Mammoth Hot Spring 3. A Fumarole 4. Norris Geyser Basin

Yellowstone's hot springs and geysers: The park sits atop one of the world's largest volcanoes, renowned for its geothermal features, containing more than two-thirds of the world's geysers. Blue, green, brown mud, black sand – various geysers in brilliant colors and different forms evoke images of turbulent, surging, roaring underground forces.

Grand Prismatic Spring (the most beautiful eye on Earth)

Old Faithful Geyser (erupts approximately every 90 minutes)

Tourists waiting for the geyser

The moment Old Faithful erupts passionately

Graceful geysers dance in the wind, swaying with a sky-blue dreamlike theme; the warm mist gradually blurred my vision. They were like a group of white angels dancing on a stage...

Tourists soaking in the hot springs look so relaxed and comfortable. If you have time, by all means enjoy it too!

The park contains vast primeval forests, with the Snake River, Yellowstone River, and Yellowstone Lake running through. The abundant water rushes through the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, forming huge waterfalls. Driving through the forest, wildflowers bloom everywhere along the wetlands and grasslands. No matter the angle, it is a beautifully composed grand landscape painting!

Numerous forest fires have occurred in Yellowstone; the local policy is to let them burn naturally. Old forests become white or black charred forests standing there, while new forests regenerate at appropriate times, full of vitality.

Petrified forests: Volcanic eruptions 50 million years ago instantly buried a redwood forest, turning it to stone. Today many petrified trees have been damaged. We found one well-preserved petrified tree, the only spot in the park protected by an iron fence.

Watching wildlife was the main reason for children to visit Yellowstone. Everywhere we saw herds of bison, ducks, waterfowl, eagles, rabbits, and ground squirrels. Evening and early morning were the best times to spot deer and grizzly bears. The animals here are not afraid of people; they don't flee when seeing tourists. They seem to be the natural masters, and we are merely visitors.

Near geysers, bison nonchalantly walk across the boardwalks while tourists snap photos with phones and cameras.

On the way from lodging to the restaurant one evening, a huge elk slowly crossed the road into the opposite forest to graze; not far away, a family of three deer (a stag, a doe, and a fawn) wandered in the woods – the fawn slipped away first when I tried to take a photo.

In the Yellowstone Canyon, we saw an Osprey nesting on a peak.

While watching a herd of several hundred bison on the grassland, a pet dog suddenly rushed into the herd and provoked them, only to be surrounded and attacked by the bison. Looking back at these bison pictures, I can still hear the owner's soprano calling, 'Come on, come on, Sam...' The bystanders could do nothing. Later, local police were summoned, first evacuating vehicles and tourists, then... presumably Sam returned safely to his owner's arms.

Another time, we saw many cars stopped. We asked and were told a grizzly bear family had just crossed the road. Not getting a close look at the chubby mom and cute cubs was the only regret of this Yellowstone trip.

I'll borrow a picture to comfort myself :)

Yellowstone National Park was established at the end of the 19th century. Its prominent feature is geothermal phenomena. It boasts numerous geysers and hot springs, the colorful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, ancient fossil forests, abundant waterfalls, and Yellowstone Lake. The park has so many highlights: dynamic geyser eruptions, static ponds, wetlands, forests, grasslands, mountains, and the wild animals inhabiting this pristine park – all captivating.

Travelers to the U.S.: those who prefer lively, bustling cities choose New York; those who love nature must choose Yellowstone.

7/21 Day 15: From West Yellowstone to Bozeman Airport to return the car. Take a domestic flight via Salt Lake City to Los Angeles. Pick up another rental car at the Avis counter at Los Angeles Airport. Stay at Knights Inn Woodland Hills $96.84.

2016-07-21 DL4454 BZN 11:50 – 13:12 SLC

2016-07-21 DL1471 SLC 16:55 – 17:51 LAX

Bozeman is less than 200 km from the Canadian border. Along the way, grasslands, pastures, towns, streams, forests, and mountains alternated continuously. The temperature was unusually low; the car's external thermometer showed 35°F (about 2°C) at 7:34 AM – a great escape from the July heat!

7/22 Day 16: Shopping and rest day in Los Angeles, preparing for the return trip tomorrow.

7/23–24 Days 17 & 18: Los Angeles to Shanghai via Beijing. Adjust to the 15-hour time difference.

2016-07-23 CA888 LAX 11:30 – 15:10+1 PEK

2016-07-24 CA1855 PEK 17:30 – 19:40 SHA

Road trip experiences:

1. At a gas station on the way from Grand Teton to Yellowstone, we encountered a super cool Harley-Davidson motorcycle group. When they took off their helmets, we were amazed to see a group of silver-haired handsome men and beautiful women. They were from Germany and Switzerland, who flew to Denver and had been riding in the American West for two weeks. I wondered whether we could have such physical strength and passion when our temples turned gray.

2. We kept encountering various RVs along the way – some towed by pickup trucks, others towing boats, bicycles, or sand motorcycles. They would park by forests or lakes, set up camp, and play. Some were families, others groups of friends. This common 'snail-style' outdoor travel is so cool!

Shiny large trucks on the highway became another sight. The big rigs that passed by, like mighty Optimus Prime, rushing past with majesty, caught the eyes of everyone, young and old.

3. On Idaho Highway 34, we met an elderly couple driving a Corvette convertible, wearing cowboy hats. The old man had a neatly trimmed goatee and looked vigorous! Later we saw three more Corvettes in various colors. Several were also available at rental companies – seems this car is quite popular locally.

In Los Angeles, we saw a very old Continental.

Travel Tips:

Airline tickets were booked last October on Ctrip. At that time, we didn't consider that July coincides with the typhoon and plum rain season, when flight punctuality drops to its lowest point. International connecting flights might be delayed. For a week before departure, I checked the app 'Very Accurate' daily to see the same flight's performance. My mood fluctuated with the cancellations and delays of domestic flights. Luckily, on July 7, the domestic flight was only 70 minutes late, and the departure from Beijing to Los Angeles was 2 hours delayed, still within the acceptable range.

Tip 1: When planning a travel route, consider staying two nights at the first overseas destination (Los Angeles), first to cushion against possible flight delays affecting the itinerary, and second to prepare for the long road ahead – buy daily necessities and food, adjust to the time difference, etc.

During immigration inspection in Los Angeles, one passport missed the entry stamp. We asked airport staff and were told to immediately get a retroactive entry record; otherwise, it might cause trouble when leaving the U.S.

Tip 2: After clearing customs and immigration, check if your passport records are complete. The seemingly meticulous and serious officers are not infallible!

We booked hotels 8 months in advance. First, the prices were favorable and guaranteed; second, popular attractions during peak season have very few rooms available – especially Yellowstone's summer accommodations, which are fully booked six months or more in advance. In Las Vegas, the pre-booked price was 50% off the hotel's same-day rate. In Yellowstone, if the pre-booked price was higher, the hotel refunded the difference based on the current walk-in price. Hotel booking websites: Hotels.com; Booking.com; Ctrip is also a good choice.

Tip 3: During peak travel season, hotels need to be booked in advance. Hotels generally provide a refrigerator, microwave, free ice, etc. You need to bring your own personal items like toothpaste, toothbrush, and slippers.

Car rental, driving, refueling:

Renting and returning at the airport is convenient. At the airport, take the dedicated Avis shuttle bus to the rental office. To check in, present your driver's license, notarized translation, and passport. After getting the keys, contract, and inspecting the car, load luggage into the trunk and drive off.

To return the car, first navigate to the terminal area, find the 'Rent a Car Return' sign, follow it to the parking lot of your rental company, record the mileage, hand over the contract and mileage data to the staff for confirmation, and complete the checkout.

Speed is measured in miles per hour. Drive strictly following traffic rules: keep a safe distance, change lanes infrequently. Driving felt relaxed and smooth.

Gas stations are self-service. Tourists usually pay at the counter with cash or credit card. Park next to the pump, note the pump number, go to the counter (usually a store cashier), tell them the pump number and the amount (or dollars), then start refueling, and finally return to the counter to settle.

We booked rental cars: July 7–21, a luxury 7-seat SUV Lincoln MKT, total cost (including insurance) $1,911.81; July 21–23, an SUV Mazda CX-9, cost $198.00. Total fuel cost $400 (average $2.5 per gallon).

Kudos to the rented 7-seat Lincoln MKT – excellent mechanical performance and appearance, resistant to high heat and low cold, never complained or acted up. It was a great asset on our trip.

Even the rearview camera captured beautiful scenery.

Tip 4: For a U.S. self-drive trip, it's best to choose a 'muscular guy' type of vehicle – spacious and suitable for long-distance travel. Then you can carry all luggage and take comfortable naps in the car when tired.

Tip 5: When encountering a STOP sign while driving, you must come to a complete stop regardless of whether there are other cars around, look around, and then proceed in turn. Not knowing this could lead to serious trouble!

Tip 6: When refueling in remote areas, try to use cash to avoid credit card fraud in high-risk areas.

Tip 7: Remember to refuel before returning the car, making sure the tank is full; otherwise, the rental company will charge a higher price for refueling.

July in the American West is mostly sunny and dry with large temperature variations: daytime 40°C, dropping to about 20°C at night. We saw no rain throughout the trip. UV rays are extremely strong; despite thorough sun protection (sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, clothes), skin peeling was unavoidable. At night in Yellowstone, it was only 3–4°C; sometimes we woke up cold.

On the scorching road to Hoover Dam, even my iPhone shut down.

Tip 8: Using an umbrella for sun protection might attract odd looks, because sun protection with an umbrella is unthinkable for locals who love sunbathing.

Food and tipping:

Common meals are mainly meat-based: burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, steaks, and cold drinks – calorie counts are not low. For fine dining, reservations are needed. At restaurants, as when shopping, you pay 8.1%–9.25% tax (different cities have different rates).

In July, the days are long in the American West; it's still bright at 9 p.m., so we unknowingly played until then. However, restaurants close early; after that time, in small towns or near attractions, no open restaurants can be found. Along the route, fast-food chains were mostly McDonald's and Subway; KFC and Burger King were rare.

Tip 9: The U.S. is a tipping country. For dining (except fast food), accommodation, luggage handling, and taxis, you need to pay a certain percentage (10%–30%) to service staff. So remember to exchange some small U.S. dollar bills.

Communication:

Local telecom companies are mostly private and not very service-oriented. In cities and towns, there is signal; in other areas (including national parks), there is no signal at all. Even in Yellowstone hotels, there was no WiFi – we were completely disconnected. For those reliant on mobile information, it was painful.

Tip 10: Download offline navigation maps or buy paper route maps as backup. Purchase an AT&T SIM card as backup.

This road trip covered 4,500 km, crossing seven states in the American West, with temperatures ranging from 43°C to 2°C, plus international and domestic flights, totaling 18 days. Self-driving in an unfamiliar country with many uncertainties naturally raised some concerns. In the end, we went with the flow, stopped and started, and successfully completed the planned route.

Life is a journey of cultivation. The journey may be short, but life is long. This adventure, full of beautiful scenery, wonders, and cultural experiences, allows you to encounter a better version of yourself.