2019 Freewheeling 5000 km in the American West (2)

📍 Los Angeles · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 33 likes

Woke up at noon, continued to McDonald's in Jackson town. Speaking of this kid, probably watched too much Qiaohu in early childhood, deeply ingrained concept: drinking cola and eating fried chicken is unhealthy, so every time at fast food restaurants, it's beef burger plus juice, calling it 'healthy'!

Jackson town is not big, the most famous is the arch made of countless elk antlers piled up in the town square. We glanced at it while driving. Then we drove north straight to Grand Teton National Park.

Moulton Barn by the roadside: don't underestimate this old rundown cabin; it's said to be over a hundred years old and is the most photographed barn in North America.

The two kids had no interest in this lonely barn backed by snowy mountains and surrounded by vast grasslands. But everywhere there were mouse holes, with a mouse head popping out here, a mouse butt there, turning it into a real-life Whac-A-Mole game for the kids, making them unusually excited and joyful.

A tiny chapel at the park entrance: the first sight upon opening the door was truly delightful. The continuous Teton peaks and birch forest were framed in the front window!

The only planned itinerary for today: risk encountering bears and experience a 6km mountain forest hike.

Under the scorching sun, we walked through forest trails, bypassing streams, crossing small bridges, stepping over fallen logs, and we kept walking...

The continuous Teton Mountains, with their year-round snow, reflected in the mirror-like lake. A feeling of peaceful times, so beautiful!

Although this was a relatively moderate hiking route, we were careless and took nothing but our phones. On the way back, the thirsty kid refused to drink from the mountain spring and ran all the way back to the parking lot at the foot of the mountain! I have to admit, the kid's stamina is quite good...

Jenny Lake Store: the small shop had souvenirs and cold drinks, plus all kinds of bear spray and bear bells.

Suddenly it dawned on us that we had just been walking through the forest like a bunch of walking meatballs...

The seemingly clear and beautiful Jenny Lake truly revealed its pure glacial heritage the moment we stepped into the water! We understood what 'bone-chilling cold' means! This was a complete contrast to the volcanic heat of neighboring Yellowstone Park, a real experience of ice and fire.

Signal Mountain: driving up the winding road to the top, we found a vast alpine meadow, silent except for the sound of birds.

Schwabachers Landing: one of the best photography spots recommended by National Geographic, especially at sunrise and sunset.

Unfortunately, at sunset, we were met with dark clouds that blocked out the sky and an incoming storm. Following the GPS off the main road onto a gravel and dirt road, we saw the river valley just as we were half-doubting. Gazing at the distant Teton peaks and their reflection on the water, one could imagine how nice it would be to watch the sunset here!

Back in Jackson town, the restaurants and bars in the town center had full parking lots. Not wanting to wait, we drove straight into the supermarket parking lot. The kids were very happy: first, they could buy all kinds of snacks and cold drinks freely; second, they could finish dinner early and continue playing Werewolf...

Dinner was ready-to-eat after we got home, and it tasted pretty good. But the kid had a stubborn baby tooth that wobbled but wouldn't fall out. She ate dinner looking like she had lost all will to live.

We got up early as planned. After breakfast, we headed south all the way back to Salt Lake City, 500 km away.

First thing: fill up the car. $40 for 13.8 gallons, tank full and ready to go!

After 4 hours of driving, we got off the highway and had lunch at a roadside McDonald's. No juice, so the kid drank mineral water. I tried to tempt her with cola, but she refused...

During the break, we searched for attractions near Salt Lake City. Besides the blue-sky and blue-water Great Salt Lake, there was the Mormon Temple in the city center. We even found a steakhouse for dinner. But then we suddenly saw the salt flats outside Salt Lake City, which caught our eye! We calculated the driving distance: a detour there would add 100 km from the hotel in Salt Lake City, but the return trip would be 200 km. Then we started self-consoling: the American West is vast and sparsely populated, with straight roads; 300 km on wheels goes fast...

Back on the highway with half a tank left, we started looking for gas stations. Unfortunately, we only saw diesel, no gasoline stations. Approaching Salt Lake City, we debated whether to detour into the city for gas. But thinking that we had already gone 100 km without a gas station, surely there would be one later, so we stepped on the gas and headed straight for the salt flats.

Little did we know that the road ahead was all wilderness, and indeed there was no gas station for the next 200 km. Both our phone and car GPS took turns issuing emergency alerts: forest fire, some entrances and exits closed!

We accepted the situation and continued following the GPS to the destination.

The moment we parked, we decided to keep driving forward. Because the only way back to Salt Lake City was the same route, and we knew there were no gas stations along the way.

Bonneville Salt Flats of the Great Salt Lake: a seamless blend of blue sky and white salt, rivaling the 'Mirror of the Sky'!

But you also need good luck: if there is water on the salt flats after rain, you can see the mirror-like reflection. Otherwise, it's just an endless, vast expanse of white salt.

The blue sky and white clouds reflected on the thin layer of water, walking through it felt like strolling in the clouds...

The water was clear, the salt layer thick. We walked barefoot for a while, but it was prickly.

After all, the car was low on gas, so we were uneasy. The two kids, who hadn't had their fill of fun, were forced to wash their feet and get back in the car, very unhappy!

We set off again. It was nearly 35°C outside. We opened all windows, dared not use the AC, dared not accelerate hard, and drove at a constant speed. Fortunately, there was a small town not far away, and then we saw a gas station. We stepped on the gas and rushed over in relief! It was a close call...

On the 200 km return trip, we ran into a fire truck going to put out a fire, causing a huge traffic jam...

This whole day: we left Jackson town at 10:30 AM and only arrived near the hotel in Salt Lake City at 9 PM. Over 800 km of driving, a bit tiring. We needed some high-calorie, high-cholesterol food to cheer up. But we barely found a restaurant that was still open! Once again, we marveled at how colorful the nightlife is back in our big China!

The kid said: lobster, oysters, pasta—no big meat, bad review!

As soon as we got to the hotel, all we wanted was to lie down and sleep. But the front desk guy kindly arranged two adjacent rooms for us. As soon as the kids entered, they found the two rooms were connected by a door, and their sleepiness vanished instantly...

After breakfast, we continued our journey to Page town, 640 km away: Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon, and Bryce, starting a different style of trip.

Halfway, we had a simple lunch at a gas station: only cookies, bread, and fried chicken. The kid ate dry cookies while watching us devour chicken legs. After a long internal struggle, she asked for two pieces of fried chicken. Then she tore off all the skin and ate a soulless chicken leg...

Bryce National Park was on the way from Salt Lake City to Page. The magnificent scenery greeted us along the road, but we only made a brief stop. Later, we passed Lake Powell, its azure blue water didn't slow us down either—we were heading straight to Horseshoe Bend for sunset.

At 6 PM at Horseshoe Bend, it was about a kilometer walk from the parking lot. The dirt road was scorching hot, dry, and without any shade. We truly felt the power of Arizona's desert!

Horseshoe Bend: the Colorado River magically forms a 270° U-shaped bend here. Ocher red rocks and dark green water, with an occasional small boat drifting by...

To get a full view of Horseshoe Bend, you have to approach the cliff edge without any protective barriers. Every year, tourists fall to their deaths! Even if you step back to a safe distance, watching others go to the edge is still nerve-wracking. Maybe most of those who fall don't have acrophobia.

Turning around, we saw this guy sitting casually on the cliff edge, meditating in the wind, with no intention of leaving. I was so scared that I kept telling the kid: 'Safety first, safety first!' The kid calmly replied: 'I promise I won't come within 1 meter of the cliff edge.'

I felt the wonder of nature at the cliff. I thought I'd be scared stiff without a railing, but I wasn't... I truly realized: traveling alone with a kid, constantly challenging what I thought impossible—this feeling is quite special!

This kid, though she really didn't go within 1 meter of the cliff edge, would stand up suddenly without hesitation and walk away. As an old mother, I broke out in a cold sweat watching her... Oh my little ancestor!

I wouldn't let her near the cliff edge, so she started finding other rock pillars similar to cliffs, climbing as high as she could to enjoy the commanding view. I think everything she saw and experienced here has really become a part of her...

When she drew a picture the next year, it suddenly appeared on paper...

After this entire loop, even the kid who usually doesn't mind sun or heat admitted she was a bit overwhelmed. She even opened an umbrella, which is rare!

There weren't many restaurants in town. We patiently waited at a bar entrance. Others were drinking and watching games; we were eating big chunks of meat...

We found the booked villa. The kids continued playing cards to compare sizes and choose their favorite rooms. Mao Mao drew the biggest card again and said: 'I think the room downstairs is terrifyingly big... I'll take the small one upstairs.'

Before her companion woke up, she calmly finished her diary, then cooked herself some instant noodles.

Antelope Canyon is in a Navajo reservation. Tourists are not allowed to enter alone; you must join a guided tour with a Navajo guide in a special jeep.

Unfortunately, even though we booked a month in advance, we missed the midday light beam—the 'Heavenly Light' that shines straight down to the canyon floor. A slight regret...

The road to Antelope Canyon was all desert. We rode in the Navajo special jeep, bumping all the way. The driver stepped on the gas, and dust flew everywhere behind...

The entrance to Antelope Canyon: an unremarkable narrow slit.

Once inside, we encountered the densest crowd of this whole American West trip. The 150-meter canyon felt like the crowded famous scenic spots during China's national holidays.

To be honest, I had seen many photos of Antelope Canyon online—mysterious and dreamlike—and I was really looking forward to experiencing it myself.

But Antelope Canyon is especially photogenic! Sunlight enters through different angled cracks, creating changing light and shadow and wavy lines. With the guide's instructions—where the 'Instagram' spots are, how to frame the shot, even tossing sand for you—the actual experience wasn't as colorful as the photos.

After erosion and washing by rainstorms, floods, and wind, the rock walls show incredible soft curves.

In places without light, you can better feel the rock's flowing, undulating marks.

Lake Powell is the second largest man-made lake in the US, formed by damming the Colorado River with Glen Canyon Dam. It wasn't originally in our plans. We detoured to the visitor center just because we had time and it was close—just a glance in passing... But once inside the visitor center, we were fascinated by the many pictures and videos at the counter, and thought that a boat tour might be a great way to enjoy the desert lake and mountain scenery.

Under the blazing sun, we walked from the visitor center to the marina. Except for the three kids, who were still hopping and jumping, we were all fried...

The lake was like a mirror, the water an even purer blue than the sky. The canyon cliffs on both sides, in varying shades, were rugged and bold. Such winding waterways in the desert, with their changing views, are truly rare.

Lake Powell is probably a popular vacation spot in the southwestern US. Many cars towed boats and kayaks, driving right to the beach to enjoy water sports. The kids watched people swimming and playing in the lake with great envy.

We continued to Walmart for supplies and also bought dinner ingredients, planning to comfort our homesick stomachs!

We were terrified of the smoke alarms in the foreign kitchen—just a little smoke triggers a huge, continuous alarm... So we opened doors and windows, cooked on low heat, and turned off the stove before any smoke appeared! Finally, after so many days, we had a proper meal of rice. Tears of joy...

I woke up alone at 8:30. The bored kid, watching the airport not far from the yard and Lake Powell just across the road, dragged me out for a walk. But the whole neighborhood was so quiet, except for bird calls, not a single sound. The kid said: 'Let's go back and have breakfast...'

We drove 200 km to Bryce Canyon. At the park entrance, we saw the sunset time: 8:54 PM. Such a dilemma: we wanted to see the sunset, but we didn't want to drive in the dark to the next city...

Most US national parks have 'Junior Ranger' programs for kids. Just ask at the visitor center for an activity booklet, and kids can learn about the park in a unique way, from object identification, fill-in-the-blanks, matching, to forest mazes and more.

After watching the visitor center's video and exhibits and completing the activity booklet, kids can have their work checked by a Ranger, take an oath, and receive a commemorative badge.

We walked uphill to the viewpoint. Standing at the cliff edge, the full panorama of Bryce Canyon spread before us. The orange and fiery red hoodoos, arranged in order from top to bottom along the slope, were magnificent and stunning!

We went to several other viewpoints; all had broad vistas, but the feeling of looking down was quite different. Despite the scorching heat and high altitude, we chose the shortest hiking trail to go down to the canyon floor and experience it!

From here, an irregular zigzag path wound down into the canyon.

A narrow path between two ancient hoodoos was named 'Wall Street'.

After passing Wall Street and going around those two straight pine trees, we were at the canyon floor.

Walking on the canyon floor felt completely different from looking down from the viewpoint. It truly is about seeing the world from a different angle—different angles, different scenery.

At a fork, there was a warning sign. For safety, we chose to continue on the zigzag path back to Sunset Point.

The view from below was the same, but the joy was boundless...

At 8 PM, we couldn't wait any longer for the Bryce sunset, so we set off for the next city 150 km away.

At night, in the vast landscape, the only animals we saw were those we passed on the road, and there was no one else... What was most frustrating: at 10 PM, we drove into a desolate mountain area with no light except our car headlights. Then the GPS said: 'You have arrived at your destination.' We confirmed the address several times—it was correct. Oh my god! It was a place where you couldn't see your hand in front of your face, perfect for a horror movie...

To be continued...

Travel Diary Index:

1. DAY 6 2019-07-06

2. DAY 7 2019-07-07

3. DAY 8 2019-07-08

4. DAY 9 2019-07-09

5. DAY 10 2019-07-10

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