Egypt of the Jellyfish Sea Made Me Reluctant to Leave

I had been longing for a trip to Egypt for a long time. The movie *Cleopatra* (1963) starring Elizabeth Taylor, *Stargate* (1994), the *Mummy* trilogy (1999, 2001, 2008), *Death on the Nile* (2004), and Tom Cruise's *The Mummy* (2017) all fueled my desire. After deciding on the approximate travel dates, I started looking for travel companions. After many twists and turns, I finally found sincere partners. We booked tickets, bought essential oils, prepared the necessary items, and just before departure we met another couple, making a group of four. Off we went!

Oct 14 (D0): Beijing to Chengdu.

Oct 15: Chengdu to Cairo, stay in Cairo.

Oct 16: Cairo, Egyptian Museum, Khan el-Khalili market, stay in Cairo.

Oct 17: Cairo — taxi — Alexandria, visit "Bride of the Mediterranean," stay in Alexandria.

Oct 18: Alexandria, experience the small train and tuk-tuk, stay in Alexandria.

Oct 19: Alexandria — taxi — Mersa Matruh, visit the Library of Alexandria, eat seafood feast, stay in Mersa Matruh.

Oct 20: Mersa Matruh day trip, "Eye of the Sea," stay in Mersa Matruh.

Oct 21: Mersa Matruh day trip, "Most Beautiful Road," stay in Mersa Matruh.

Oct 22: Mersa Matruh — taxi — Siwa, salt lake, lakeside sunset, stay in Siwa.

Oct 23: Siwa, Mountain of the Dead, Old Siwa, visit a local family, Sahara sunset, stargazing, stay in Siwa.

Oct 24: Siwa — minibus — Mersa Matruh — train — Alexandria, stay in Alexandria.

Oct 25: Alexandria — bus — Cairo, stay in Cairo.

Oct 26: Cairo, Giza Pyramids, stay in Cairo.

Oct 27: Cairo — bus — Sharm el-Sheikh, stay in Sharm el-Sheikh.

Oct 28: Sharm el-Sheikh, mosque, cliff bar, stay in Sharm el-Sheikh.

Oct 29: Sharm el-Sheikh — bus — Dahab, stay in Dahab.

Oct 30: Dahab, stay in Dahab.

Oct 31: Dahab, snorkeling, stay in Dahab.

Nov 1: Dahab, stay in Dahab.

Nov 2: Dahab, snorkeling, stay in Dahab.

Nov 3: Dahab, leisure, Dahab — night bus — Cairo.

Nov 4: Cairo — bus — Hurghada, stay in Hurghada.

Nov 5: Hurghada, leisure, stay in Hurghada.

Nov 6: Hurghada, sea trip and snorkeling, stay in Hurghada.

Nov 7: Hurghada — bus — Luxor, stay in Luxor.

Nov 8: Luxor, hot air balloon, Karnak Temple, Nile sunset, stay in Luxor.

Nov 9: Luxor — minibus — Aswan, stay in Aswan.

Nov 10: Aswan — minibus — Abu Simbel Temple — minibus — Aswan, stay in Aswan.

Nov 11: Aswan, Elephantine Island, Aswan to Cairo by flight, stay in Cairo.

Nov 12: Cairo, City of the Dead, Saladin Citadel, Garbage City, stay in Cairo.

Nov 13: Cairo — flight — Chengdu.

Nov 14: Chengdu — flight — Beijing.

D1 (Oct 15): After more than ten hours of flying last night, I finally arrived in the Egypt I had longed for. I met my roommate and we agreed on the standard for the first hotel in Cairo (too careless, we sat in the wrong seat). After landing, I exchanged the $25 visa-on-arrival fee in advance in China. You can bring a small amount of USD, or exchange RMB for Egyptian pounds after arriving. We bought a SIM card, exchanged money, and my English slowly recovered. Being unfamiliar with the place, I even fell down in a hurry, so the iodine I brought finally came in handy. My roommate was amazing — while crossing the road, she even picked up an Egyptian girl learning Chinese. We chatted for a while and drank sugarcane juice together.

We checked into the pre-booked hotel and met up with the companions we had arranged online. I took them to eat Chinese food. These two friends had already been traveling abroad for a month and a half. Although they occasionally cooked for themselves, they were homesick. This Chinese meal was devoured with great satisfaction.

D2: Cairo day two – Egyptian Museum. The entrance fee was 450 EGP by card, and each ticket had a different pattern. Previously, locals could buy tickets for you with cash, but many pocketed the money and the government didn't receive it, so now all tickets must be paid by card (Visa or Mastercard). We hired a Chinese-speaking guide, otherwise we wouldn't understand anything. He explained well, asked questions, told jokes, but his Chinese had an accent, so I translated on the side. Fortunately, I had experience translating for Hong Kong directors. To save the guide's time, we first followed him and later wandered around again. After a group photo, we wanted to come back to Cairo to visit the newly opened museum. Due to the physical and mental exertion plus the bombardment of knowledge, we didn't eat until 3 p.m. We had junk food that I eat less than once a year in Beijing, so full that we skipped dinner.

D2 (Oct 16): Cairo second stop – Khan el-Khalili market. After the late lunch, we returned to the hotel for a short rest, then set off to the market. We truly experienced the Egyptian-style haggling. The bracelet in the picture was initially offered at 800 pounds, but we countered and he didn't accept. We left and came back several rounds, finally settling at 250. The volume and pitch were very high. Haggling turned out to be physically exhausting. My companion was fooled by the smile of the chubby guy in picture 2, mistaking 50 pounds for 15 for grape juice. Further inside, there was a mosque with colorful lighting. We rested for a while and took photos, with people occasionally photobombing. Later, we passed snacks and ice cream, but we chose tea, two cups for 100 pounds. What joke made me laugh so much that I became blurred?

D3 (Oct 17): Alexandria day one. After a three-hour drive from Cairo, we arrived at the coastal city of Alexandria. After checking in and having lunch, we took a short rest and went out to play!

On the Alexandria Corniche, there is a large sculpture created in the 1960s called "Bride of the Mediterranean." This is the city's iconic sculpture. The sculpture is based on the Greek myth of Princess Europa:

The beautiful Princess Europa was playing outside when the Greek chief god Zeus fell in love at first sight. He turned into a divine bull, lured the princess onto his back, jumped into the sea, and brought her to a land. The princess became Zeus's bride on earth. To commemorate this beautiful day, Zeus named the land where they would live after his bride Europa — that is the European continent. The artist cleverly borrowed this myth. The beautiful Princess Europa tightly hugs Zeus, and Zeus brings the princess to land in Alexandria... In the sculpture, the "bride" lies sideways in the hollow of Zeus's arms, her right hand around his neck; four masts of varying heights, symbolizing white sails, stand upright, full of romanticism.

Is the thing in the picture called "cricket"?

My outgoing companion kept taking photos with Egyptian beauties, making heart signs.

We found a seafood restaurant and achieved seafood freedom. Guess how much we spent?

D4 (Oct 18): Alexandria day two. In the morning, I drank warm white congee. I said I had some supplies and planned to cook at the next homestay. Stay tuned.

In Alexandria, we stayed in a residential area near the market. The morning environment here matches my inherent impression of all American spy movies.

An old train: only 7 EGP for two people. We rode to the terminus and found a large supermarket. The two of us ate a pasta with meat, a slice of pizza, and a small pastry, totaling only 52 EGP, less than 8 RMB. In the evening, we fulfilled my companion's wish for instant noodles, with tomatoes and sweet lettuce — the taste was great!

PS: Yesterday's seafood feast cost 2109 EGP, about 303 RMB, or 76 RMB per person. Thinking of online complaints about "Big Pear" charging 98 RMB for Kung Pao prawns, our meal was a steal!

D5 (Oct 19): Mersa Matruh day one. We had a heartwarming breakfast of sweet potato congee. At 9:30, we took the chartered driver's car to the Library of Alexandria. It was spectacular, but not as good as the National Library. After visiting, we drove to the port of Mersa Matruh, a 4+ hour drive. We checked into the pre-booked apartment, which had two bedrooms and a kitchen. Then we went to eat. The seafood feast cost over 960 EGP, about 35 RMB per person. Very satisfying, and we even packed a little. We saw several tables of fellow Chinese. After the meal, we went to the market and supermarket to shop. First, we had a glass of juice, then returned to the apartment for tea. With limited luggage, I felt we might run out of tea, so we bought local rose tea. Some took showers, others drank tea. (Only one bathroom, so we took turns.) Touching moment: when my companion asked for a hairdryer, the boss sent a young guy to buy a new one.

D6 (Oct 20): Mersa Matruh day two. I woke up at 5 a.m. and couldn't fall back asleep, so I got up to prepare breakfast. Later, everyone got up. While waiting for the stir-fry, I wiped the table that had been seasoned for decades. Breakfast: a large jug of water for 30 EGP, green onions tied with a root leaf, as if back in time. After tidying up, we took a taxi to the Eye of the Sea, entrance fee 20 EGP. I want to learn from my roommate: she is very patient and told me not to rush others. "Examine myself three times a day" to grow more perfect.

D6 (Oct 20): Mersa Matruh day two. The Eye of the Sea area is quite remote, with unfinished low buildings. After coming out, we called the previous driver but he didn't answer. Without an address, we couldn't get a taxi, so we took the business card and asked around. We asked an Egyptian family, and the mother offered to give us a ride. We chatted in the car; they were also tourists. My outgoing companion took photos and chatted. Back at the apartment, we slept for a long time, then got up to eat. Judging by the picture, this meal seemed typical Egyptian food: larger oven-baked bread, and we even snagged a cup of sweet tea.

D7 (Oct 21): Mersa Matruh day three. Today's breakfast was so substantial that we weren't hungry until 4 p.m. No one accepted our ride request, so we hailed a car and paid 200 pounds to go to the Most Beautiful Road. We took some photos and rested. Someone said using beach chairs cost 100 EGP. A local girl heard that and wanted to argue with them — so warm-hearted! We went deeper into the reef, and the scenery became more beautiful. We met a Chinese couple who kindly took a group photo for us.

D8 (Oct 22): Siwa day one. After breakfast, we moved to Siwa. Picture 3 shows a road with barbed wire and a guard tower — could it be a prison? The road was all desert. The driver might have been tired; I saw his eyelids drooping from the back seat and quickly called out to my companions. Without internet, we asked around and finally found the homestay we booked online. We called a young man and, as usual, haggled to 1500 EGP. (So far, only the accommodation in Mersa Matruh was under 100 RMB; Alexandria was 167, Cairo and Siwa were both over 200 RMB.) We had lunch and made tea when the boss arrived. We gave him Chinese tea (and showed him the packaging) and started haggling for day trips. Finally, we agreed on 1200 EGP for one and a half days. Changed into swimsuits and headed to the salt lake! My companion was bold and sat in the driver's seat with the boss. The salt lake had strong buoyancy, easy to float. We swam freely, then rinsed off briefly and went to the next spot. At Cleopatra's Spring, there were many people soaking, so we skipped it. We rushed to the sunset, where many Western tourists were already seated. When they saw me wrapped in a blanket looking cold, the vendors even invited me to warm up by the fire — so kind! The boss took us to the city center for dinner. I forgot to photograph some dishes. Almost every dish came with a staple. The portions were large. The bill was 785 EGP.

D9 (Oct 23): Siwa day two. At around 6 a.m., it was already bright outside, so I went out to take photos. I shot for a while before the sun rose. After breakfast, we went to the Mountain of the Dead. The entrance fee was 120 EGP, so we didn't go in; my companion and I just took photos from the outside. We also visited the bus and minibus station, then the Old Siwa, which is the filming location for the movie *Assassin's Creed*. For lunch, my companion wanted fried rice, but the translation was wrong; it turned out to be chicken cooked with millet. I ended up eating most of it. The big brother suggested to the homestay boss that we visit his parents' home. When we arrived, we gave them essential oil. The host served tea. After a round, my companion photographed their cows, sheep, and goats. Before leaving, they gave me a roselle flower, which made me extremely happy.

D10 (Oct 24): Siwa day two. We returned to the homestay for a short rest, then set off to see the desert sunset. After driving 2-3 kilometers, we arrived at the "Sahara Desert." I had a deep impression from Sanmao's book title from childhood. The boss prepared tea and fruits, and lit a small fire nearby to boil tea. My female friend enjoyed it a lot. The sunset here was so fast! Soon after dark, stars appeared one by one until the sky was full of stars. The temperature dropped gradually. My down jacket came in handy. Since we had to go back to pack, we ended at around 8:20 p.m. I woke up at 5 a.m. today. When we were ready, the boss had already prepared breakfast. He was uncompromising when negotiating the price on the first day, but generous when settling the bill. Maybe he really liked my female companion! Two nights of accommodation plus two half-day tours, a visit to his parents' home, plus sunset and stargazing — he only charged us 3500 EGP. What a coincidence: he turned out to be the protagonist of the travel notes I had read while planning! (Actually, I didn't book this room.) It was fate!

D10 (Oct 24): From Siwa, we took a minibus to Mersa Matruh (150 EGP per person), then a taxi to the train station. The kind taxi driver warned us that the train conditions were poor and helped us check if there were any trains before leaving. My companion and I took the slow train she had been longing for (45 EGP per person). It departed at 2 p.m. and wobbled for a long time before arriving in Alexandria. Along the way, a soldier called the train conductor to tell us not to take photos. There were vendors selling tea, snacks, sweaters, socks, etc. In the wealthy district of Alexandria, we stayed in a boutique hotel that wasn't expensive: 1200 EGP. Little did we know it was our last moment of happiness.

D11 (Oct 25): The next morning, we took a taxi to the nearest bus station (175 EGP per person) to Cairo. Then began a day of falling into traps. Maybe after falling into enough traps, we got used to it and eventually faced it with a smile. The Nile night view was beautiful. While my companion took photos, I searched for hotels on both sides — when would I be able to afford the Four Seasons or Kempinski? For now, I could only afford a room with a cemetery view for 60 RMB a night. I deeply praised the hostel my companion recommended; it even included breakfast!

After checking into the cemetery-view room, we changed clothes and went out. For lunch, we had safe KFC. Near the pyramid ticket office, we took a minibus (20 EGP per person) to the nearest metro station, experiencing the second growth of my life. We went to a station near the Nile and took a boat ride (originally wanted a dinner cruise with a whirling dervish show, but the boss quoted too high — $25 per person — so we chose a lower option: 1200 EGP for two). The night views of the high-end hotels on both sides of the Nile were nice. Returning by metro, we wanted to eat near the minibus station but couldn't find suitable food. My companion drank a real mango juice, and I bought overripe figs — had to buy at least 1 kg, no less. We took a minibus back to Giza, 14 EGP for two, a bit far. My companion mentioned needing coins, so she asked a handsome guy on the same bus to exchange coins; he gave her one for free. With a social butterfly, every encounter is an adventure. We had a sandwich at a street stall. She had chicken, and I ordered based on the picture — it was okay (a slight gamey smell). We took a taxi back to end the day.

D12 (Oct 26): After breakfast (free breakfast so abundant I felt lightheaded; I ate three big and two small buns, five total), we went to buy pyramid tickets. The ticket office was already crowded with tall, sturdy scalpers. We couldn't squeeze in, and I almost gave up. But thanks to my companion, who transformed into Mulan and successfully bought tickets, also helping two other Chinese. First, we went to the Sphinx. Too many tourists, so we walked along the side and still got some photos. Inside, many Egyptian children pestered her for photos. Eventually, there were too many, so we had to politely decline. The temperature was only 27°C, but the ground radiated heat, so we had to rest after short walks. On top of that, riding a camel made my butt sore. Originally, we planned to stay only two hours, but we didn't start heading out until 4 p.m. On the way, we saw a Chinese restaurant called "Great Wall." Guess what? It was run by locals, and the food was good. My companion had the fried rice she had been craving, and we saved the dumplings for next time. Total 500 EGP, about 72 RMB.

D13 (Oct 27): We looked up bus stops. The nearest was a 10 a.m. bus, so we went to Tahrir Square and bought tickets for 8:30 a.m., 330 EGP each. Long journey; if short on time, you could choose a flight. Our luggage was checked twice. After a 9-hour drive, we arrived in Sharm el-Sheikh. The hotel was $19 per night, about 70 RMB per person. We dropped our luggage and went to eat. Google Maps led us to this restaurant, which was very popular with constant table turnover. The bill was 980 EGP, but they charged 1000, the rest as tip — about 144 RMB, 72 per person, even covering the next day's breakfast. After dinner, we went shopping. My companion bought beach shoes and fruit. I eyed a hotel on the hillside and tried to take a shortcut but was stopped. I'll try again tomorrow morning. Back at the hotel, we made tea by the pool, and there was a DJ playing Arabic music.

D14 (Oct 28): Today I woke up at 5 a.m. as usual, thanks to my internal clock. Not wanting to disturb my companion's sweet dreams, I went to the pool to make tea, using the DJ's power source to boil water. Two male colleagues — one middle-aged, one young — had already reported to the Western Paradise. Now I'm traveling on their behalf, and today an older sister joined. A cat came over and climbed onto my lap. Involuntarily, I wondered: could it be my grandmother reincarnated? That would be nice. Egyptians are friendly to cats.

D15 (Oct 29): The night before last, after leaving the cliff bar (actually it should be called "Cliff Café"; "bar" might be a Chinese translation), we took a minibus to near the hotel and had a wrap. No change given, so the bill was 130 pounds. My companion left her cup at the cliff bar. Yesterday morning, she took a taxi to look for it and luckily didn't lose it. Every day has one beautiful thing!

We took a bus to Dahab. Luggage cost extra. When the ticket seller was tagging the luggage, he insisted on tagging my carry-on bag. I yelled, and he stopped. 100 pounds for two pieces. Later I heard it should only be 5 pounds; the rest was overcharged — another lesson in tuition. After a while, the driver asked a local woman to help check if we were in trouble, and even took us to the Dahab station to complain. Although some Egyptians do small scams, the vast majority are kind and friendly. Along the way, I gave myself a scrape massage, leaving the unhappiness behind on the previous leg. My companion found a dive shop with Chinese-speaking instructors and asked about certification. Then we looked for accommodation. After some bargaining, we settled on 2500 pounds for 6 days, about 60 RMB per day, with cooking allowed. We went to the market and supermarket to stock up. The most expensive items were ginger and Coke. Back we made Coke chicken wings and salad, and discussed tomorrow's menu. We bought salt, instant noodles, and a large jug of water at a nearby supermarket — so happy.

D16 (Oct 30): Yesterday we had a simple breakfast, then accompanied my companion to the dive shop. She was torn between paying in USD or by card. I said definitely cash in USD! The exchange rate was 7.01 when you changed, now it's higher. At noon, I accompanied her and her certification colleagues for lunch (I wasn't very hungry, just there for company). In the afternoon, we shopped. To sum up: the market is far, choices are limited, cooking utensils aren't handy, so we only made simple breakfast and noodles. We decided on congee for the evening. Along the way, there were many specialty shops to explore slowly. She came back from the sea after 6 p.m., very tired. Hot congee warmed her up. Yesterday we walked 17,000 steps. I had planned to just lie around, but ended up walking the most without even time to sit by the sea. Today I must go.

D17 (Oct 31): My companion went into the sea in the afternoon. After taking photos at the mosque, I asked her (good English) to help me find snorkeling. The first place quoted 600 EGP. The second quoted 350, so I bargained down to 300. I held some fruit and watched the sea until departure time. Honestly, I hadn't been in the sea for five years, so I was a bit panicked and it ended quickly. After changing, they asked for money, listing four charges for a total of 350 EGP. I used a translation app to say, "If you were going to charge, you should have told me in advance." The guy who brought me said if I didn't pay, I'd have no ride back. I was already prepared to walk back, but he compromised and asked how much I wanted to give. I only gave 50, as if I hadn't bargained at all! I came back early and made soup to soothe my wounded heart, earning praise from my companion. Now I understand the feelings of the two friends who had been traveling for over a month when I took them for Chinese food.

D18 (Nov 1): A leisurely day. I sent my companion to the dive shop, then tried to find the seafood market (didn't find it last time). My efforts paid off — I bought shrimp and lamb. Looks like I'm going to gain weight! / Everywhere you see sleeping dogs.

D19 (Nov 2): Accompanied my companion to the dive shop; today she went to the Blue Hole. After taking selfies, I went to inquire about snorkeling. Some said equipment plus person for 600 pounds, others said 20 USD for company. I walked and walked, finally I asked and only rented equipment for 100 pounds. I went home to get a towel and change of clothes, brought ginger-boiled cola, and went. The boss said I should walk backward into the water with fins. Indeed, after last time, I wasn't as afraid of the water. The mask still leaked, but I didn't panic. I played for half an hour first — there were many fish near the shore. I sunbathed for a while. I wanted to continue for another hour, but both legs cramped one after another, so I had to stop regretfully. I saw dozens of fish species, including some quite large ones. / Picture 9: These Egyptians are funny; if they can't afford a designer, they just paint large color blocks as decoration.

D20-21 (Nov 3-4): My companion's AOW course was supposed to take 5 days, but ended in 4. Yesterday she went for the "flip bag" (later I learned it cost $20). I rented snorkeling gear again to join them, but the waves were big and I broke the mask while pulling hard. I lost the mood to play, afraid he would overcharge me. I found a guy to accompany me when returning it, and finally paid 200 pounds to settle it. The young man who had kindly applied iodine to me yesterday received two bottles of essential oil as gifts. Originally, we planned to take the GoBus night bus, but hadn't bought tickets in advance. When we remembered, there were no seats left, so we switched to BlueBus, departing at 10 p.m. BlueBus seats were more comfortable than GoBus, but the frequency was lower. When we arrived in Cairo, the ticket office wasn't open yet. We saw a GoBus on the opposite side, grabbed our luggage and ran, catching a bus leaving ten minutes later to Hurghada. Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada are only separated by the Red Sea, but we had to detour through Cairo; even flights require a transfer in Cairo. There is no direct ferry route — a pity.

D21 (Nov 4): A supplement: During the night bus, when we stopped in Suez for luggage inspection, I saw men wearing shorts and thought they must be tough. Then I saw one shivering in a thin jacket, so I quickly put on my down jacket. The young man in picture 1 was quite free-spirited. Next time, before putting food on the tray table, I should clean it thoroughly. Originally, I found a homestay on Booking for $5, plus tax only $8, but the host didn't leave a phone number. We only took a taxi from the GoBus station to a nearby street. Since we had no choice, we looked for accommodation nearby. My companion asked a hotel: 1300 pounds. I asked one that quoted 900. I wanted to look further, but the guy chased us out, so I bargained down to 1000 for two nights, about 72 RMB per night — a sea-view room with a balcony! I'm a bargaining expert (I also bargained in Dahab). After checking in, we had a simple meal nearby. We saw a Carrefour but didn't buy much, otherwise we'd have to carry it to the next stop.

D22 (Nov 5): It was cold sleeping here at night. I covered myself with the quilt and used my down jacket for my feet. Woke up at 5 a.m. by my internal clock. I went to the lobby to boil water, then to the beach opposite. There was an iron gate. I greeted the guard and he let me in. Passing by where we had burgers yesterday, my companion said he wouldn't know we left. Back in the lobby, I made tea. The guy keeping watch all night (I originally called him uncle, but later realized he might be around my age) asked what I do. I said art teacher and showed him oil paintings. He asked if I was married. I replied, "Love freedom!" He guessed I was in my 20s; I had to say 30. He introduced Egyptian attractions. I praised Egypt's beauty and said I wanted to bring my mom for a stay. His accent was heavy, whether in English or Arabic; translation apps didn't recognize it, and I only understood simple words. So we awkwardly chatted for nearly an hour. In between, a cat came and gave me a massage. I went back to the room to get beef ham slices for the cat. When my companion came downstairs, she asked about dolphin chasing. He gave me a small stone — so touching!

After eating tomato instant noodles, we set out. First, we checked the bus schedules, then walked to a beach with free drinks. She drank beer — but this is a Muslim country! Finally, I couldn't bear it and suggested we buy something, like a pizza. Earlier, there were activities: belly dancing with kids, and beach dancing with adults. The map showed this was Sunshine Days... hotel and spa; the hotel had no vacancies that day.

D22-23 (Nov 5-6): Coming out of the beach, we said we'd look for a dolphin-chasing tour agency. The first quoted $25, with various extras totaling $65; after haggling, we only got down to 1920 pounds. Still a bit expensive. The second quoted 800, finally settled at 600 pounds per person. The agency guy even dropped us off at the Hilton entrance where we were to meet the next day. We went to Carrefour to replenish sheet masks, then returned to the hotel for a short rest, and set off for a seafood dinner. We ordered two fish; the bill was 586 pounds, about 85 RMB.

/ This morning after getting up, I went downstairs and gave the night watch guy two bottles of essential oil and explained their use, repaying him for the small stone. I boiled some instant noodles for breakfast. My companion ate yesterday's leftover pizza. Then we went to the meeting point. In Hurghada, we hadn't seen any Chinese people, but on the dolphin boat, we saw several. Once the boat departed, the sea color became more beautiful. Later, passing a patch of grass-green water, my companion saw a rainbow in the spray. First snorkeling: due to strong wind and waves, we had to follow a life ring. There were many small fish at the bottom, and lots of fish around the coral reef. Swimming was a bit tiring, but luckily it ended quickly. On the way back to the boat, there were many large fish on the surface. Later, the boat arrived in a relatively calm area, and we snorkeled again, but I might not have warmed up enough and got on the boat after a quick dip. Unfortunately, we didn't see dolphins. Soon we ate. I ate so much that I wasn't hungry at dinner. In the evening, we had a meal and chatted with newly met friends.

D23-24 (Nov 6-7): Yesterday, as soon as I returned to the hotel, I found my data was exhausted. I didn't expect 42G to run out so quickly. I hurried to the Carrefour service center to top up. / This morning, we took a taxi to the GoBus station to depart for Luxor. There were several Chinese fellow travelers. The 8:30 bus didn't arrive in Luxor until after 2 p.m. A group of people surrounded us as we got off. Originally, I wanted to go to a homestay I saw on Booking, but touts said there was a cheap one nearby. Finally, we haggled to 500 EGP per night, shared bathroom. Considering it's in the city center, close to the train station and bus station, and also near the attractions, it was a good price. After checking in, we met a Chinese-American and another Chinese person. We agreed to eat at a recommended Chinese restaurant called "Dynasty." Although run by Egyptians, the food was quite good. The bill was 1000 pounds, about 36 RMB per person. After dinner, we took a horse-drawn carriage back. We agreed on 50, but after getting off, they insisted on 100, saying it was 50 per person. We ignored them and walked away — Luxor indeed lives up to its reputation. Then we had tea and chatted on the rooftop. My female companion hadn't watched the dramas and variety shows the Chinese-American had seen, but he had seen them all, like "Chinese Restaurant" and "The Story of Rose." The more we talked, the more we hit it off. I asked him to download WeChat so I could share the names of shows I've watched. They took the night bus to Cairo. See you again if fate allows. I went to bed early, ready for tomorrow's hot air balloon!

D25 (Nov 8): Left the hotel at 4 a.m. and arrived at a medium-sized boat on the Nile at 4:10. Met a Chinese girl, definitely an extrovert, who told us how her boss tracked her by phone. After a while, the boat docked at the meeting point. All were Toyota vans. Once full, we departed. The roadside plants, including oleanders, were all dusty and dirty. Many people were waiting. As the morning glow appeared, fans started working, balloons inflated and ignited one after another. Soon, we welcomed the sunrise, everyone taking photos. As we flew over the Valley of the Kings, my companion took pictures, and while protecting her, I quietly admired the view. How fortunate — such beauty made me want to love life even more! At 6:20 a.m., balloons started landing one by one. I saw Toyota cars chasing their own balloons. After each balloon landed, people spread a cloth on the ground. They pulled one rope, and the top of the balloon slowly contracted, revealing the sky; the air was released, and the balloon slowly fell. During the process, the balloon expanded again. Some tied the base of the balloon tightly. Several people hugged the middle part of the balloon, gradually tightening and shifting positions to let the air out. This process took time and manpower. No wonder someone came with an aluminum box asking for tips. The maiden flight of the hot air balloon was a complete success!

D25 (Nov 8): After the balloon ride, we had breakfast just in time. We met a Malaysian Chinese and another Chinese person, and we went together to Karnak Temple. This temple was the most recommended by the Chinese-American. It's very large, with exquisite carvings, and some places still retain traces of the original colors. There were many tourists; we tried to find spots without people for photos, or else we'd have to edit them out. The weather was clear, and there was no shade. A handsome guy wanted ice-cold Coke, but they quoted 100 — so we just endured. Back at the accommodation, we realized it was Friday and restaurants were closed. We only had bread and buns packed from breakfast. Then we wanted to visit a museum, but found out it opened at 5 p.m. So we went to the Nile felucca for sunset and negotiated prices. At first, we couldn't get a discount; they kept saying 300. Finally, we met a Hong Kong compatriot who agreed to 250 pounds for three people.

D25-26 (Nov 8-9): The felucca captain busied himself, then after stabilizing the direction, he lit a cigarette, shared with my companion, and they chatted enthusiastically. He also brewed tea for the three of us. Picture 1 shows a gas canister with a stove. With the breeze, I sang "Honghu Water," "Pearl of the Orient," "Wusuli Boat Song" in succession — probably everyone was sick of it! Soon the sun set quickly, and the sunset was beautiful. Afterward, we went together to the Luxor Museum, entrance fee 400 EGP by card. I used to use China Everbright Bank card; I wanted to love it, but the exchange rate was 6.3. I switched cards decisively. We hurried to buy train tickets to Aswan but were stopped by a local who said there was a minibus to Aswan for 600 pounds per person, about half the train ticket price ($25-30). At first, I was worried, but seeing his office, I felt a bit reassured. The next morning, I got up very early, packed my luggage, left it downstairs at the hostel, and set off for the Temple of Medinet Habu. There were various issues along the way. Finally entering the temple, after the high temperature subsided, my anxious mood calmed down. I carefully appreciated the carving details and took satisfying photos for my companion. I wanted to use the restroom but they charged, so I changed plans and went back to the hostel. At 12:30, I arrived at the meeting point. The minibus already had an Italian father and son, and a French couple with twin children. The guy who sold us tickets wanted another 50 pounds; I resolutely refused and gave him a bottle of essential oil instead. We arrived in Aswan a little after 4 p.m. The Italian young man asked if our hotel was David, and we shared a taxi. What a coincidence — that was the one I had seen on Booking. We got a triple room with shared bathroom, 800 pounds for two nights (online it was $13), and we could cook. This was the cheapest accommodation so far on our Egypt trip — truly rare. In Aswan, even water is more expensive than elsewhere.

D26-27 (Nov 9-10): Yesterday on the minibus, it was so hot that I drank Huoxiang Zhengqi liquid to prevent heatstroke. The smell made my companion shiver. After checking into the hostel, before showering, I spent half the time unclogging the drain. We went nearby to buy food. The chicken received high praise from my companion. We also made oyster sauce lettuce and boiled nourishing tangerine peel congee. / This morning, I got up at 5 a.m., made sandwiches, and set off for the bus station to catch the 7 a.m. minibus to Abu Simbel Temple, 200 pounds per person. This was cheaper than chartering a car, but it was tiring. At 9 a.m. in Aswan, it was 26°C, which already felt like at least 32°C in Beijing. I was grateful that I didn't come to this city when it was 37-38°C but saved it for the last stop. Otherwise, with a surface temperature of 50°C, I would have fainted from the heat in Aswan.

D27 (Nov 10): Abu Simbel Temple is a place you regret not going, but you regret even more after going. It takes a whole day, and the entrance fee is the most expensive: 765 pounds. The ticket office said you could buy one with cash, probably pocketing the money. Walking into the site, there's a winding path. Turning the corner, you see two huge gates. There were many Western tourists. The guard at the main gate would ask Western tourists to take photos holding the Key of Life, but I don't know how much he charged. The Abu Simbel site is small; the statues inside are exquisite, but given the small area, it doesn't feel as good value as Karnak or Medinet Habu. However, it has legendary significance. To build the Aswan High Dam, the entire Abu Simbel Temple was relocated with UNESCO support. Originally on the autumn equinox, October 22, sunlight would shine on the faces of the statues. After relocation, the date shifted by one day to October 23. I really admire the ancients.

From the bus station plus travel time, about two hours was enough. On the way back, we wanted to see the famous Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie wrote *Death on the Nile*. We asked one or two people, and soon the entire minibus knew where we wanted to go. The driver dropped us nearby and kindly showed us the direction. Luxury buses full of Western tourists were already heading there. At the entrance of Old Cataract Hotel, they asked for our room number; we said we wanted to have dinner. The staff said we needed to buy a ticket. According to people in the group, dining there costs thousands of RMB, so it's better just to read travel bloggers' posts. Back near the hostel, we bought chicken from another place for only 100 pounds, but the taste was slightly worse than yesterday's. My companion also ordered tomato egg and oyster sauce lettuce.

D28 (Nov 11): I packed my luggage and left it downstairs for storage. The last day in Aswan. We took a tuk-tuk to the Nile to catch a boat. They asked 200, we offered 40, and finally settled at 50. During this Egypt trip, I earned the title of bargaining expert. I truly admire those in the group who spend three or four thousand USD, but I have limited means. The average monthly salary in Egypt is only 2000-3000 EGP (official exchange rate 6.8). I have 2000-3000 RMB; Westerners have 2000-3000 USD or euros. The gap is so significant. I don't stop them from enjoying life — they greet everyone, ask for photos, and have tea or coffee at any time (Egyptian coffee tastes bad, my companion experienced it). Like the minibus driver last time, he boiled tea by the roadside while passengers waited. By the Nile, a man approached us. We said ten pounds; he said ten dollars. I said no, pounds; he said pounds sterling. So we called him "Smart Guy." The public ferry was 10 pounds per person — men on one side, women on the other. We arrived at Elephantine Island, a Nubian settlement. It was very quiet, with many Western tourists staying on the island. The houses were painted in dopamine colors, occasionally with geometric decorations. I also changed into my last outfit. My sheet masks, moxa patches, Chinese tea, tangerine peel, and essential oils were almost used up — it was time to leave. But I hadn't even left, and I already missed it. I asked my companion if she would recall the daily greetings of "Hello" from children on the road, and whether she would need me to video call her every day after returning home.

Passing through a primary school, we entered what seemed like a community of ordinary residents. Suddenly, around a corner, we found a bay. My companion and I had a picnic here. Today was all about leisure. Her phone was so high-definition that it clearly captured my wrinkles!

On the minibus back (4 pounds per person, they don't give change for us), I saw the common small flatbread being baked in the sunlight and took a photo. A young lady immediately offered me some to taste; I said I just had breakfast.

We arrived at the airport early, and an unpleasant incident occurred. After checking in two large suitcases, I wanted to carry my backpack on the plane. But during security, they said my electric kettle was not allowed and had to be checked in. So I went back to check it in. The first person said I had to pay extra. My luggage was only 23 kg, but they said each person is allowed only one piece. Could I take out the items from the previously checked luggage and repack? The answer was no. In a panic, I switched to another person, who wrote a note and directed me to a small door. They said it would be hard to find, and I was so angry I screamed. They said it had been 5 minutes. This electric kettle had passed through Beijing, Chengdu, and Cairo, but here it became a problem. Looking on the bright side, such experiences might make me remember this trip vividly!

D28-29 (Nov 11-12): Yesterday on Elephantine Island, we briefly stopped at a Nubian tea shop and were invited in for tea. Ended up spending 100 pounds. Last night, after landing in Cairo, we took a taxi to Giza and wanted to stay at the previous hotel, but the price had increased. It seemed everywhere nearby had raised prices, so we had to accept.

This morning, I had another abundant cemetery-view breakfast. Since I woke up early and had already posted a short essay while drinking tea opposite the pyramids, I ate three pieces of bread. (Unlike the place in Luxor, they didn't clear the table before I finished.) After my companion finished eating, we set off for the City of the Dead. Across the street is Saladin Citadel — so photogenic!

Inside Saladin Citadel, we had to take off shoes or wear shoe covers. My companion was nearly fainted by the smell of feet passing by. I asked, "Are you sure you can handle Garbage City?" She insisted. After eating fruit, we took a tuk-tuk to Garbage City. This is the sorting ground for all of Cairo's garbage. You can imagine — fortunately, we didn't come when it was 40°C. Then we went to the "Cave Church" at the end, where an occasional smell drifted over. A Chinese girl wanted to take a photo; she took off her outer layer, revealing a tank top, and was scolded by a man. Fortunately, I wasn't born in a country with low status for women.

D29 (Nov 12): Saladin Citadel was yesterday's biggest surprise. The courtyard was being prepared for a wedding, probably for some VIP. So I told my companion, "If you get married, come here," and she happily agreed.

Yesterday morning, we left the hostel near the pyramids, took a minibus, and wanted to transfer to the metro to go to the City of the Dead. A local young man used a translation app to communicate with my companion and offered to take us there. My companion asked, "Wouldn't that be too much trouble?" He insisted and walked with us for nearly 20 minutes to the minibus stop, where we took a bus that gave change for 4 pounds per person. When we parted, they took a photo together. I regretted not giving him essential oil, because he didn't accept tips and helped selflessly. I remembered only when we reached the City of the Dead. I told my companion: whenever a Cairo local tries to overcharge, a kind local comes to soothe our wounded hearts. So overall, the Egypt trip was pleasant. At the restroom in Saladin Citadel, there was no water when flushing. I didn't realize when washing my hands and first applied soap. A female student used water from her cup to help us rinse our hands. I quickly handed her essential oil. Finally, even the cold medicine was almost gone — time to leave. I will miss the lively atmosphere of Cairo, the screaming and hand-in-hand running across the street because there are no crosswalks. My companion will miss the best grilled chicken she had in Aswan. I will miss the surprised expressions of Egyptians when I haggled to one-tenth of their price.

On the night before departure, I accompanied my companion to Khan el-Khalili to buy gifts. Originally, we planned to return to the hotel for a Chinese meal, but then I thought about going home soon, so we had local food instead. While chatting after dinner, I said I would miss the noise and chaos here.

D30-31 (Nov 13): Facing Khufu again, we had a final breakfast. The waiter brought three long bread rolls. I said, "Who are you looking down on? I alone can't even get enough." My companion was curious how I expressed that in English. My English is too weak — I relied entirely on her. Just as we were getting familiar, it was time to return home. My companion was scratched and bled while playing with a cat. I said, "You're determined to use up all the iodine and band-aids!" She also bought her favorite souvenirs, which were better value than the two shops she checked the night before. We originally planned to take a taxi, but the drivers couldn't turn into the alley and canceled one after another. A local young man helped us find a taxi, but asked for a gift. I had just given all the remaining essential oils to the hostel boss. So I had to give the one that had my companion's body scent — so dramatic. At the alley entrance, I bought tomatoes that I will also miss after returning home — they taste like childhood memories. And the sweet lettuce: after washing, I could eat a whole bag.

Flying for over 9 hours to Chengdu. The meals were quite plentiful. I watched a few movies, slept, and arrived. I gave the tea bags to my companion who was returning to Guangzhou. She said, "No one will brew tea for me," which almost made me cry. After a whole month of day-and-night togetherness, she felt more like a sister. I hope we can travel together again soon and make delicious meals.

Thanks to her, I kept the total cost of this trip under 10,000 RMB. I also experienced various modes of transport: train, bus, minibus, horse carriage, tuk-tuk, felucca, metro, etc. The thick clothes came in handy — I didn't catch a cold. In desert areas, the temperature difference is really huge!

Previously, I never lost as many items as I did in Egypt; maybe it's a different kind of fate. I hope I can bring my mother to Egypt again.