Hometown of a Renowned Chancellor: Huangcheng Xiangfu, Shanxi

Here there is no beauty like Guilin’s landscape, no towering majesty like Mount Tai, nor the opulent grandeur of the Forbidden City. It is merely a microcosm of Chinese civilization, yet it boasts many proud historical relics. Running your hand along the walls as you walk forward, you will gradually feel the prosperity of over 300 years ago, a life of bell-ringing feasts and an earthly paradise.

Huangcheng Xiangfu is located in Beiliu Town, Yangcheng County, Jincheng City in southeastern Shanxi Province. If you have watched the TV drama 'Kangxi Dynasty,' you might be familiar with Zhongdao Zhuang, a grand Shanxi mansion built against the mountain, for this is one of the filming locations of 'Kangxi Dynasty.'

Huangcheng Xiangfu was the residence of Chen Tingjing, a Grand Secretary of the Wenyuan Library who served as prime minister during the reigns of the Shunzhi and Kangxi emperors in the Qing Dynasty. Originally named 'Zhongdao Zhuang,' it was later renamed 'Huangcheng' (Imperial City) because Emperor Kangxi stayed here twice. Also, since Chen Tingjing’s literary name was Wuting, the mansion is also called 'Wuting Shancun' (Wuting Mountain Village).

Covering a construction area of 36,000 square meters, Huangcheng Xiangfu is massive in scale, divided into an inner city and an outer city. The inner city was built in the sixth year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty by Chen Tingjing’s uncle Chen Changyan as a refuge from war, and served as the daily living quarters for the Chen family.

The inner city consists of eight independent but cleverly connected siheyuan (courtyard houses). The stone lions, door stones, bracket sets (queti), and screen walls at the entrance of each courtyard are all well preserved. Everywhere you look, there are houses with carved beams and painted rafters; the exquisite and ornate doors and windows are breathtaking.

The doors and windows are carved with patterns of phoenixes playing with pearls, longevity symbols, and rare flowers and plants, each vivid and lifelike. Touching these doors, windows, and the antique furniture inside—such as the grand armchairs (taishi chairs), eight-immortal tables, and carved beds—feels like reaching into a not-so-distant history.

The outer city was completed in the 42nd year of the Kangxi reign, and it is said to have been built by Chen Tingjing for his mother. At that time, Chen was an official in the capital, and his mother longed to see the capital. However, because she was too old to travel far, Chen built this mansion in his hometown, resembling the Forbidden City, for her.

The Yushu Lou (Imperial Library Tower), with its red pillars and golden-tiled roof, adds a majestic and elegant note to the vast complex of Huangcheng Xiangfu.

Yushu Lou was built by Chen Tingjing’s third son, Chen Zhuanglu. It is renowned far and wide for the plaque and couplet personally inscribed by Emperor Kangxi for Chen Tingjing. The plaque, 'Wuting Shancun' (Wuting Mountain Village), carries profound meaning. The couplet reads, 'In spring, the trees return with lush shade; in autumn, chrysanthemums bloom late, their fragrance lingers'—the highest praise Kangxi bestowed on Chen’s lifelong integrity. The rounded, powerful, and imposing calligraphy is solemn and awe-inspiring.

Past the Yushu Lou, a tall stone memorial archway comes into view. Despite the wear of centuries, the names of the Chen family’s generations of scholar-officials are still clearly legible on the arch.

To the left behind the archway is the famous Dianhan Tang (Hall of Imperial Endorsement). The Chen family was locally praised as 'a family with nine presented scholars in one gate, and six Hanlin academicians over three generations blessed by imperial favor.' Dianhan Tang was named by Emperor Kangxi himself when he visited Huangcheng Xiangfu and personally appointed Chen Tingjing’s son Chen Zhuanglu as a new Hanlin academician. It stands as a landmark of the family’s continual receipt of imperial grace.

Unsurpassable Architectural Design

The most distinctive building in Huangcheng Xiangfu is Heshan Lou (River-Mountain Tower), whose name means 'river and mountain as a garden.' It is said to have been built jointly by the three brothers Chen Changyan, Chen Changqi, and Chen Changqi to defend against roving bandits. Heshan Lou is made entirely of brick and stone, without wooden beams, and can shelter over a thousand people.

Such a large-scale civilian military defense fortress was hard to imagine then, and even today its design appears highly scientific and rational.

Windows only appear above the third floor. The stone gate to the fortress is suspended above the second floor, connected to the ground by a drawbridge. To facilitate reconnaissance, the top of Heshan Lou has battlements and watchtowers, and a secret escape tunnel was specially built. To withstand prolonged sieges, there are wells, mills, and other living facilities inside, along with ample stored food.

Climb the wooden stairs to the top, and the beautiful scenery outside unfolds before you. It is said that the year after Heshan Lou was completed, the Chen family built the 'Douzhu Ju' (Douzhu Residence) walls, enclosing Heshan Lou, Shide Ju (Shide Residence), Shude Ju (Shude Residence), and other buildings into a huge castle.

Walking on, you come to a small, exquisite garden. Standing by the little pond in the garden, watching the leisurely goldfish in the rippling blue water, you almost forget time. Cross the small bridge to a pavilion. From the pavilion, the garden’s lush green hill and winding paths are all in view. On a moonlit night, the scenery here would be even more delightful.

Standing in the deep courtyard, touching the weathered grey bricks and green tiles, sipping a cup of fragrant tea, and listening to a melodious piece of ancient music, you can easily immerse yourself in the prosperity of the past, becoming utterly lost in its charm.

Huangcheng Xiangfu includes: Douzhu Ju, Heshan Lou, Tunbing Dong, Chen’s Ancestral Hall, Shude Yuan, Shide Yuan, Qilin Yuan, Rongshan Gong Fu, Yushi Fu, Zhongzai Di, Stone Memorial Archway, Xiaojie Yuan, Zhi Yuan, Yushu Lou, and Ziyun Qian.

Getting There: Huangcheng Xiangfu is located in Beiliu Town, Yangcheng County, Jincheng City, in southeastern Shanxi. You can take direct buses from downtown Jincheng, and the journey takes about 30 minutes.

While visiting Huangcheng Xiangfu, you can not only enjoy the beautiful scenery but also taste local delicacies, such as Yangcheng grilled liver, youhujiao (oily horn-shaped pastries), rouguanrou (clay-pot braised meat), grilled scallion, and millet pancakes.