Baby Meng's Growth Travels — Thirty-Fourth Stop: Linfen, Xi'an, Yuncheng (January 2025)

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More than a month before the holiday, I started planning this trip. There were so many places I wanted to go, changing my mind from day to day. I drafted several alternative routes, but in the end, Baby Meng decided she still wanted to visit Xi'an, all because of a TV drama 'Forever and Ever' she watched a few years ago—the main characters went to a scenic spot called Qinglong Temple. She had mentioned wanting to go before, but this year she was absolutely certain. Since I'm taking her out, of course I should go with her preferences; Xi'an was settled. Next, I built a route around Xi'an. The best part of a road trip is being able to sightsee along the way, and packing things is super convenient—it just puts all the hard work on Dad Meng.

1. Xizhou Hotel Xixian, Business Twin Room, ¥195, no breakfast

2. Hukou Qiyuexuan Hotel, River-View Twin Room, ¥294, no breakfast

3. Xi'an Platinum Wan'ao Victory Hotel, Shanghai-Style Deluxe Twin Room, ¥1,156 for three nights, breakfast for two

4. H Hotel (Lintong Huaqingchi Metro Station), Landscape Family Room, ¥376, breakfast for two

5. Yuncheng Liting Hotel, Yuppie Cozy Family Room, ¥700 for two nights, breakfast for two

6. Hengshui Jinjiang Metropolis Hotel, Cozy Family Room, ¥364, breakfast for two

Day 1 (Jan 18, 2025): Yanjiao → Xixian

Day 2 (Jan 19): Xiaoxitian → Hukou Waterfall on the Yellow River

Day 3 (Jan 20): Feiyun Tower → Xi'an

Day 4 (Jan 21): Qinglong Temple → Daming Palace National Heritage Park → Grand Tang All-Day Mall

Day 5 (Jan 22): Qinling Four Treasures Science Park

Day 6 (Jan 23): Huaqing Palace → Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum (Terracotta Warriors)

Day 7 (Jan 24): Stork Tower → Yongle Palace → Yuncheng

Day 8 (Jan 25): Guandi Temple

Day 9 (Jan 26): Yuncheng → Hengshui

Day 10 (Jan 27): Hengshui → Yanjiao

Off we go, the wonderful winter break trip begins. Even though this trip was postponed again and again because of Dad Meng's leave problems, with hotels booked and cancelled and rebooked, unexpectedly he got his leave before the New Year. I had been mentally prepared for a crowded holiday trip, but the surprise just came like that (*￣︶￣). Only downside is having to part with my little Tangyuan for ten days—I’m already missing her so much just after being apart (灬ꈍ ꈍ灬).

We brought instant noodles to the service area, only to find they had all kinds of food. But since we already bought the noodles, we didn’t want to waste them. Ate our fill and kept going~~

Took nine hours to reach Xixian, my legs were totally numb.

The only hotel in the county town; I had braced myself, turned out much better than expected, totally fine for one night.

Did my research ahead of time, dinner at the hotel’s Chinese restaurant. The food was pretty good, lives up to the online ratings. But the portions were huge; we couldn’t finish even trying hard. The biggest downside of traveling as a trio is eating—when in a place you obviously want to try the local cuisine, ordering too little feels unfulfilling, but ordering too much means you can’t finish.

Brought homework on this trip, but I think this was the only day it was touched. From now on let’s not bother, just play freely.

Tick off Xiaoxitian, made famous by Black Myth: Wukong. The whole area isn’t large, it only takes about 20 minutes to reach the top, even strolling and looking around. The suspended sculptures in the Mahavira Hall are exquisitely crafted, truly stunning. Very lucky to catch it on a free admission day, big thumbs up (*￣︶￣).

The original plan was to eat nearby after Xiaoxitian, then set off, but we finished so quickly that we spontaneously decided to head to Hukou Waterfall first and find lunch nearby. Picked this place from Dianping, the food was good, especially the big stew which I thought was the tastiest (almost cancelled the order, but they said it was already cooking so couldn’t).

The Yellow River’s waters come from the sky, rushing to the sea never to return. Finally ticked off the long-desired Hukou Waterfall, and we lucked into free admission again, instantly saving a few hundred yuan O(∩_∩)O haha~. It’s a warm winter this year; a neighbor said one New Year’s they came and the scenic area was closed, so we’re super lucky (*￣︶￣). Though there wasn’t much water around, the waterfall itself was still spectacular, put me in a great mood, absolutely love this place, nature is truly amazing.

The hotel near Hukou Waterfall was about the same level as yesterday’s—keeping clean is already pretty good for a county town, can’t be too picky.

Ticked off Feiyun Tower in Wanrong County, Yuncheng. Originally built during the Zhengde era of the Ming Dynasty. Four sky-reaching pillars are a key structural element, going straight to the top, the main supports of the tower. Feiyun Tower is a masterpiece of pure wooden pavilion architecture in China, known as the Number One Wooden Tower of China. Already ticked off the South Tower (Feiyun Tower) and North Pagoda (Yingxian Wooden Pagoda) of Shanxi; they truly live up to their fame, awe-inspiring.

Found a small eatery for lunch; the cooking was decent, but the ingredients didn’t feel very fresh, the meat quality was poor.

Finally arrived in Xi’an; a big city totally different from small county towns. I’m super satisfied with this hotel in Xi’an chosen on gut feeling, especially contrasted with the previous two county-town hotels—it felt simply wonderful. Right across from the hotel is the ancient city wall, and downstairs is Line 4 metro, super convenient for traffic-clogged Xi’an. The front desk guy saw I had a child and proactively upgraded us to a family room and offered an extra breakfast; in that moment he looked more handsome than Andy Lau O(∩_∩)O haha~. The room was spacious and clean; the only failing was no screen casting on the TV, such a big screen is all show and no use. Baby Meng and I had to use her dad’s foldable phone to follow 'Moonlight Mystique'.

The first meal in Xi’an was so delicious. This must-eat-list restaurant normally has queues during holidays, today it was nearly full but luckily no queue. After two days in small Shanxi towns Baby Meng didn’t eat much, today she got her appetite back and ate with deep satisfaction. Fed and watered, back to the hotel to rest~~

“When I left the lab at 4:36, it wasn’t raining. If it’s still not raining by 11:30, see you at Qinglong Temple at 12:00.”

Finally brought the kid to Qinglong Temple, well, actually this whole trip was planned around here. Baby Meng was overjoyed. I said should we visit the city wall where Shiyi jumped off? She said that’s too sad, let’s not.

Last time we ate at a different big-brand restaurant and I felt it was better than this one, mainly because last night’s Zuichang’an was so good it blew this one out of the water.

After eating, we strolled around Daming Palace Park; didn’t go into the paid area, just walking here wore out our legs. Headed back to the hotel to rest.

Grand Tang All-Day Mall, dreamlike and dazzling, crowds surging. Tranquility and bustle blend here; Xi’an’s night is this brilliant and this crowded. People everywhere, simply pushed through to the end and bailed.

But before bailing we had to fill up. The famous Old Mi’s Paomo was so delicious, though the Muslim shop’s roujiamo uses beef in flatbread, which I don’t love—it lacks the layered pork fat that’s so fragrant.

A great day starts with breakfast~

To see Qizai we stayed an extra day in Xi’an. Got to the park after 11, a bit late; the darlings were all sleeping. Al Bao was sleeping so soundly, I so wanted to yell, “Did your wrench-bitten ear get better?” O(∩_∩)O haha~

Little Qizai was eating seriously, then sat down and slept after filling up. We waited nearly two hours inside for the little guy to finally get up and stroll; my nose was frozen and running by then. Didn’t catch the sneaky look in his eyes, but his round rolly-poly cuteness melted my heart, so happy (*￣︶￣).

Bye-bye lovely pandas~~~

Zuichang’an, the peak of Xi’an cuisine in my mind. After the first meal Baby Meng fell in love, so for our final meal in Xi’an city center we had to come back. Not to mention anything else, super picky eater Baby Meng devoured one and a half roujiamo; you can imagine how much it suited her. Another day of clean plates and stuffed bellies.

After breakfast we had to say goodbye to downtown Xi’an, so reluctant, haven’t eaten our fill yet ￣□￣｜｜

Today moving to Lintong district. The hotel is diagonally opposite Huaqing Palace, great location, very new and clean.

First stop Huaqing Palace. Dad Meng had been here before, so he dropped us at the entrance and went back to the hotel to rest. Mother and daughter set off alone.

Built along the Lishan Mountain terrain, it’s also a testament to the Tang emperor’s and Yang Guifei’s love. Today it turned freezing cold; after an hour of walking I was shivering, so any thought of the evening show was totally off the table, we’d be frozen silly ￣□￣｜｜. Quickly took Baby Meng and left.

Lunch was Dad Meng’s pick; he said he’d eaten here before in Xi’an and wanted to again. It’s right downstairs from our hotel, met Dad Meng there after Huaqing Palace to eat together. The food here was the only truly awful meal on our Xi’an trip; will never listen to Dad Meng’s food choices again.

After eating, Dad Meng went back to rest, and I took Baby Meng to see the Terracotta Warriors. Fewer people than I expected. Last time I came I was just a kid, brought by my second uncle, and I only remember being scared. So many unlicensed guides around, afraid of being scammed; couldn’t find an official one, rented an audio guide for Baby Meng, but definitely not as good as a human guide. Probably history buffs would enjoy it here; I don’t really get it and wasn’t interested, from now on places like this should be led by Dad Meng.

Baby Meng couldn’t stop craving Zuichang’an’s roujiamo; if she weren’t so hungry she would have wanted to take the subway over an hour back downtown to eat. Instead, after the Terracotta Warriors we bought a roujiamo that made her feel so disgusted she even skipped dinner.

Viewing nighttime Huaqing Palace from the room was quite beautiful; there was a performance going on, and I was thinking how cold the audience must be. Better to stay warm and sleep.

After eating our fill, time to truly bid Xi’an farewell. Will come again when there’s time (*￣︶￣)

The sun sets behind the mountains, the Yellow River flows into the sea. To see a thousand miles ahead, climb one more story. Yongji’s Stork Tower, one of the four famous towers, renowned worldwide because of the poem “On the Stork Tower.” Today it drizzled here, misty and foggy; climbing to the top floor we still couldn’t see the Yellow River in the distance. A bit of a pity, but we experienced a different kind of scenery.

Dad Meng insisted on coming to Yongle Palace, just as Yuncheng got a rain-and-snow mix, very few visitors, freezing. It’s okay to drop by if you’re passing through, but if it’s a special trip it’s really not worth it.

The hotel was very new, service attitude great, hygiene especially good, highly recommended.

Must-eat-list restaurant right downstairs from the hotel; very lucky that today was their last business day before the New Year holiday, then they’d close. I always thought Datong’s food was the peak of Shanxi cuisine, until I tried Yuncheng food—Datong instantly dropped to second place.

The hotel breakfast also suited our tastes, satisfied (*￣︶￣).

Visited Guandi Temple under Yuncheng’s first snow; this is the biggest Guandi Temple, known as the ancestor of all Guandi temples, massive in scale. If the weather were sunny it would undoubtedly look even more beautiful, a very recommended scenic spot.

Today is my birthday, and I suddenly got paronychia, walking felt like excruciating stabbing pain. Luckily the site had wheelchairs, truly solved my urgent need—what a special birthday it turned out to be (灬ꈍ ꈍ灬).

The final dinner in Yuncheng, ate until we were stuffed again, so bloated it’s a sorry sight. Just blame the delicious food being so plentiful and our stomachs too small. Full and satisfied, hello to 39 years old (*￣︶￣).

Across from the hotel there’s a Wenxi Huamo shop; over 20 yuan each, thought it was a bit pricey so only bought one. When we got home and ate it, surprisingly tasty, instantly regretted not buying more.

After breakfast we hit the road back. The highway in Shanxi was closed due to snow, so the original plan for Wang Family Compound and Pingyao Ancient City had to be abandoned; will go another time if there’s a chance. Couldn’t drive all the way home in one go either, too tiring, so after much deliberation we chose Hengshui as a midway stop.

Yuncheng Salt Lake wasn’t a planned stop, but passing by we found we could reach the lakeside without entering the scenic area. Hopped out hurriedly, took a few photos, the place is truly beautiful. My foot was so swollen I couldn’t wear shoes, so I came down barefoot in slippers, nearly frozen stiff on the spot. I so regret not doing up the child’s hair properly and taking some proper shots; life is full of such regrets, next time passing through will do a serious visit.

The highway in Shanxi is really no good due to terrain—too narrow; whenever it snows and accidents happen, it’s just jam after jam. Midway the washer fluid froze, and at the service area there was a whole line of people dealing with frozen washer fluid; definitely can’t do a self-drive trip in winter again, way too dangerous.

Reached Hengshui after dark; good thing we didn’t go to Pingyao Ancient City—just the few minutes out of the car at the service area gave me arthritis flare-ups in my hands from the cold, wandering and ancient town would have frozen me senseless.

The hotel was good, same chain as the one in Yuncheng. Hengshui was also super bone-chillingly cold; really didn’t feel like going out to eat, bought instant noodles from the supermarket downstairs, hadn’t had them in ages, and they tasted so good.

Whether rich or poor, heading home for the New Year~~ This trip comes to an end, perfectly wonderful oh~

Travelogue Contents

1. Foreword (hotels booked via Dianping, Taobao, Shenzhou Car Rental are very good)

2. Preparation

3. Itinerary

4. Day 1 (Jan 18, 2025)

5. Day 2 (Jan 19)

6. Day 3 (Jan 20)

7. Day 4 (Jan 21)

8. Day 5 (Jan 22)

9. Day 6 (Jan 23)

10. Day 7 (Jan 24)