In Nanjing's Century-Old Art Space, a Dress Called 'Red Braised Pork' | What You Eat and What You Eat With Are Equally Important
[Mid-autumn]
The character "品" (taste) has three mouths, but I always find it insufficient. Eyes, nose, mouth—they already claim so much of the sensory experience. I'm not one for crowds, but when Ge Zi celebrated the 10th anniversary of Nanjing's Red Mansion (Hong Gong Guan), I had to go. Bring your eyes, ears, nose, and especially your brain and stomach.
"World Porcelain Capital" Limoges gilt coffee cup
Ge Zi told me that Limoges, the world porcelain capital in central France, is known as the "European Jingdezhen." Since the Middle Ages, it has represented the pinnacle of Western porcelain. The Palace Museum in Beijing even holds Limoges pieces collected by Qing emperors Kangxi and Qianlong. Sipping coffee from a Limoges gilt cup while pondering Dürer's engravings has become her signature ritual. A casual glance reveals that even the flower vase is a century old. These treasures are now displayed at the "Red Mansion Art & Culture Space."
Ge Zi's private collection exhibition, "The Art of the Table: 16th–19th Century Antiques," is also open. In this dining-table-cum-gallery, I met painter Le Xiaoju. Her father, calligrapher Le Quan, inscribed the three characters "红公馆" (Red Mansion) years ago. She said art has its own language, and Ge Zi and her husband understand it perfectly. The moment of that calligraphy feels like yesterday, a wonderful blurring of time. "History fades, but architecture can break the barriers of space and time, leaving the flavor of the era for generations to appreciate," said Chen Weixin, designer of the Red Mansion space, renowned Nanjing interior designer and poet. This century-old mansion preserves the historical atmosphere.
In fact, the exhibition hall is itself an antique. The wrought-iron railing on the second-floor balcony of this Western-style villa is an extension of the Art Nouveau movement that flourished around 1920. In restoring the Republican-era building "as old as it was," the designer specially sourced and reinstalled the original railing, now mottled with rust—an authentic mark of its time. "There is no second railing like this in all of Nanjing. It bears witness to history." This, of course, includes every table, chair, bowl, and plate within.
Ge Zi said, "Sit down, let's talk slowly."
Things that comfort body and mind during meals
The exhibition room by the courtyard entrance is also a dining room. She likes eating while looking at her collection, for the pleasure of body and soul. In the most prominent spot hangs her treasure: a religious woodcut from over five centuries ago, exquisitely preserved.
"The Arrest of Christ" woodcut (L'arrestation du Christ)
Created c. 1510. Provenance: Once part of the collection of the famous Italian nobleman Costa de Saint Genix de Beauregard; his collection stamp is visible below the image. This work was numbered 3339 in the Custodia Foundation and exhibited at the Petit Palais in Paris, exhibition number 51.
Scene: "Judas came with a detachment of soldiers and officers from the chief priests and the Pharisees, carrying torches and weapons. They seized Jesus and bound him." Vicious Roman soldiers drag Jesus with ropes, clubs, and hands. At this moment, "Simon Peter drew his sword, struck the high priest's servant, and cut off his right ear... Then Jesus said to him, 'Put your sword back into its place; for all who take the sword will perish by the sword.'" Dürer captures this crucial moment with perfect precision—compact composition, fluent and orderly engraving, varied expressions and actions, clear hierarchy, and intense conflict.
Opposite the dining table is a piece by Mr. Ma De, colored with effortless ease. His Ma De Kunqu Opera Art Museum now resides at the China Kunqu Museum in Suzhou. Mr. Ma donated 100 masterpieces of Kunqu opera paintings, including scenes from The Peony Pavilion, The West Chamber, and Fifteen Strings, along with his collection of precious Kunqu scripts from the 1930s and 40s. The walls around the long table display works by artists Xue Liang, Deng Jia'an, Gu Jing, Jin Tan, and others—all elegant and tranquil in style.
The Red Mansion Art & Culture Space was originally the residence of Wu Guangjie, training director of the Central Military Academy and a translator, built in 1935. I love the dense wood grain that exudes age and a warm luster.
In Chinese family stories, a grand courtyard house is never absent. Suzhou gardens, Lu Xun's Baicao Garden, the Gan family mansion... Enclosed by walls, it's a self-contained world of its own. Being here, one naturally leans toward a painterly life. In this graceful courtyard, quietly turn the pages of an old book.
As for Ge Zi, she might well be sketching a dress design. The opening cheongsam show featured her personal designs, so chic that a Republican-era socialite would probably step down from her portrait. And her walls indeed hold many precious signed photographs: Zhou Xuan, Elizabeth Taylor, Vivien Leigh... In Ge Zi's designs, the peerless elegance of history always shines through, glinting in every detail. The antiques also drift through time, telling stories.
She admires beauties as daring as herself—women who changed themselves and thus changed the times. I plan to buy Ge Zi's "Red Braised Pork" cheongsam to wear while eating Chef Wang Yong's dishes. I suddenly realized that a dress with "appetite" is a great innovation.
On the 10th anniversary day, a vintage party unfolded in the courtyard, between two cedars, full of lively surprises. Eyes followed the models' steps slowly through.
At the same time, Nanjing's first immersive Republican-era drama, "Cage," was performed at the Red Mansion. The laughter and curses that once echoed in this mansion, with Ge Zi's cheongsams, turned the clock back a hundred years. Honestly, it was my first time seeing layered and lustrous "red braised pork" shades used in clothing. Ge Zi laughed; so was hers.
I savored her collections, those perfectly beautiful presences.
French brass "Judith" twin goddess scales & French Art Deco eagle bookends
A detachable French twin balance scale, with the goddess of justice "Judith" at each end, symbolizing law and equity. Set on a black-and-white marble slab, entirely of brass, with hanging pans and four-foot brass support rings. Still perfectly balanced after all these years—a testament to European artisans' rigorous craftsmanship, dignified and both artistic and practical.
Early 20th-century French Art Deco brass bookends, with imposing eagles embodying Napoleon's fearless spirit. Upright and vivid, the twin eagles guard books, adding a touch of scholarly charm.
"King of Glass" Czech Moser green crystal gilt wine set
"King of Glass" Ludwig Moser, founded in 1857, has been royal purveyor to the courts of Austria, Turkey, and the Czech Republic for 160 years, often setting trends at world expos. This white wine set, a representative Art Nouveau piece, includes one decanter and eight glasses. Crafted in green gradient crystal, with intricate gilding by top artisans, it gracefully incorporates the elegance of Bohemian foliate scrolls—noble and refined.
"Father of Modern Kitchenware" German WMF Art Nouveau oil & vinegar cruet set
WMF (Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik), founded in 1853, has led innovation and set standards for over a century with its enduring design and quality. This WMF oil and vinegar cruet set is an excellent Art Nouveau piece, using patented silver-plating for durability and the luster of silver. The openwork stand emphasizes the free rhythm of Art Nouveau lines; the handcrafted crystal cruets echo the plant-like motifs—elegant and distinguished.
French luxury silverware Christofle Art Nouveau "Drooping Flower" vase
Founded in Paris in 1830, Christofle's first client was King Louis-Philippe of France, and it has since been renowned as a royal purveyor. In the early 20th century, Christofle pioneered silver-plating technology and Art Deco elegance for the high-end market. This silver-plated vase "Drooping Flower" showcases the hallmark Art Nouveau style: flowing curved lines, naturalistic flowers and leaves, rich detail and depth, and a poised, classic form reflecting European bourgeois taste.
19th-century French Baccarat "Rouge Baccarat" red crystal wine set
Baccarat crystal is among the world's most expensive, coveted by royalty and nobility for 200 years. The special red crystal "Rouge Baccarat" achieves its brilliant, blood-red hue by adding pure gold during high-temperature firing—rare, costly, and the brand's spiritual symbol. This neoclassical set includes a red crystal decanter with pewter silver-plated mount and ancient Roman leaf motifs, and two stemmed glasses with double-layered color and laurel decorations. Dazzling crimson, luxurious and enchanting.
French luxury silverware Christofle commemorative corkscrew honoring the founder
Born in Paris 1830, King Louis-Philippe was Christofle's first customer. This commemorative silver-plated corkscrew bears the inscription "NAPOLEON EMPEREUR." On the front, a profile relief of the founder; on the back, a ring of laurel leaves; on top, an insect motif characteristic of Christofle. A functional souvenir, still bright after all these years, quite rare.
The legacy of flavors is a game of set moves
As the evening lights turned on, the Republican-era banquet commenced. Famed gastronome Dong Keping and master chef Wang Yong both attended, presenting a parade of Republican delicacies. It was a great era of beauty—years wash away, but the spirit endures. For Nanjing, the Republican period is like the Six Dynasties: a cultural thread, passed on through the taste buds for a century.
The Republic was a renaissance; Red Mansion unveils the revival of Republican cuisine. No country melds food and culture as tightly as China. Through the "universal language" of gastronomy, Red Mansion hopes to let people across China and the world experience that culture on their tongues. The era also embraced foreign influences openly. For example, the existing dish "sake abalone" uses deep-sea abalone marinated in Japanese sake and a secret sauce instead of traditional methods, preserving the abalone's tenderness and umami while infusing the mellow sake aroma. This breakthrough innovation subtly retains the habits of China's traditional flavor system. That night, Master Wang broke the mold with a spicy abalone—a dish that embodies the essence of Russia, Taiwan, the U.S., Japan, and inland China, yet you can't help but fall in love. True innovation lies in using China's familiar taste culture to perfect these exotic creations.
Toast with foie gras, sturgeon caviar, yellow mustard
Clam and basil seafood soup with shredded luffa
Lobster balls in dry boletus sauce
Beef rolls with stinky tofu and water celery, in red soup with artemisia
Braised pork trotters with morel mushrooms and kidney beans
Steamed snow crab and egg custard with lime zest
Minced ginger, Qingyuan chicken, corn rice
Red Mansion's flavor heritage follows its own rigorous system, fully preserving and elevating the essence of Republican cuisine.
Famous Republican figures & their dishes
Capturing the spirit of the Republic, these dishes are based on research into the favorite foods of Sun Yat-sen, Zhang Xueliang, and other luminaries, recreated for modern banquets under the name "Famous Figures, Famous Dishes." As time rolls on, we realize that sometimes remaining unchanged is itself a form of change.
Soong May-ling sizzling beef steak (beef ribs)
In 1943, while convalescing in the U.S., Soong May-ling, accompanied by First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt, gave speeches across several states, causing a sensation. To express her gratitude, she invited Eleanor to dinner. One creative dish on the menu was a Chinese braised beef improved with red wine and slow-braised, resulting in a Sino-Western steak that was highly praised.
Liang Shih-chiu clam and chicken soup
When chicken soup meets "xishi she" (a legendary clam), it's a masterpiece of seafood cooking. In the 1930s, Liang Shih-chiu first tasted this soup and exclaimed, "A bowl of clear soup, floating with a layer of pointed white morsels. I didn't know what it was until the host said it was xishi she. It feels so tender and smooth in the mouth. Indeed, it lives up to its fame."
Kung Kai-shi stewed meatball in clear soup
Made with beech mushroom and pork belly, lion's head meatballs were said to be a favorite of Chiang Kai-shek, often served at Chiang family banquets.
Feng Yu-hsiang sweet and sour squirrel-shaped mandarin fish
Squirrel mandarin fish is a classic Jiangsu dish, a high-end banquet staple throughout the region, renowned at home and abroad. In 1946, before leaving for the U.S., General Feng tasted this dish and said, "I wonder when I'll ever get to enjoy this delicious squirrel fish again."
Republican-style tableside poached yellow croaker in clear chicken soup
Yellow croaker, as precious as gold, can be prepared in many ways, but tableside poaching is the ultimate test of freshness. This method brings the fish's texture and flavor close to perfection. It was a dish Chiang Kai-shek often served to guests in Nanjing, later becoming a famous restaurant dish.
Republican welcome appetizers
The Republican era was extremely particular about banquet quality, starting with the appetizers—they set the tone and whet the appetite. Pursuing the ultimate beauty of taste and sight was the era's spirit. A gleam of scenery, green wax and red jade, cups and goblets. Echoing the river are the soup banquets of the Qinhuai. A bowl of soup, a verse, a love story.
White shrimps from the Yangtze River
Where river meets sea, the Yangtze white shrimp is caught. "Taibai Yangtze shrimp" uses wine to enhance the shrimp's natural sweetness, so one bite conjures the scene "I see the Yangtze River flowing to the sky."
Ancient Nanjing finds its crowning beauty in the Qinhuai landscape, celebrated for millennia.
Shepherd's purse and king crab tofu soup
Tofu, anciently called "fuli," is praised as "plant meat." This Huaiyang classic features tofu threads as fine as embroidery needles, tender and smooth, melting instantly; dotted with colorful vegetables, it's a sensory delight.
Nanjing-style cod soup with black fungus and dried beancurd stick
During the Republican era, Qinhuai River was dotted with painted pleasure boats, lavishly decorated and serving exquisite "boat cuisine."
Fried eel with onion (stir-fried eel back)
"Chao Ruan Dou" was Mei Lanfang's favorite, using only the eel's back meat.
Steamed fresh reeves shad
From the Ming-Qing period to the Republic, wealthy Jiangnan families prized shad caught fresh from the river, cooking it on the spot right on a boat—called "chushui chuan shi" (just-out-of-water boat shad). After eating, they'd face the river breeze, watch the waves, and sip tea. One Spring Festival, Xu Beihong sent his wife to deliver Yangtze shad to Qi Baishi, with instructions to "not remove the scales, as they contain oil; steam them plain for the best flavor." Eileen Chang famously lamented three great regrets in life: "One, the crabapple has no scent; two, the shad has many bones; three, The Dream of the Red Chamber is unfinished."
Suiyuan was once the ancestral garden of Cao Xueqin's family and the original site for the Grand View Garden in Dream of the Red Chamber. During the Qianlong reign, the literatus Yuan Mei bought it and renamed it Suiyuan, where he grew crops, vegetables, and fruits. Later, the Republican-era Jinling Women's University moved in. Today, "Suiyuan" recalls his Suiyuan Cookbook and Suiyuan Poetry Talks.
Towel gourd simmered in lobster soup
An extraordinary broth paired with the crisp freshness of towel gourd and firm lobster meat—a dish demanding great chef skill. Golden soup cloaks emerald green gourd strips, a contrast of colors.
Despite the frequent wars and divisions of the Republican era, many restaurants still pursued refinement and perfection. Local snacks, in particular, bloomed beyond expectation. A pot of weak tea, a snack—amid chaos, there was still earthly happiness.
Rainbow pebble-like glutinous rice balls (Yuhua stone tangyuan)
Nanjing's Yuhua stones are world-famous, revered as the "queen of stones." I can imagine biting into one, then sitting by a tea house railing, watching the misty Jiangnan rain fall like blossoms. But it would be even more beautiful using the openwork antique silver spoon from Ge Zi's collection.
What brand of kitchenware do you like?
Like vessels in a darkroom,
if a woman's face still glows at night,
she must be a city-toppler.
And the gift of understanding the essence of all things through knowledge...
True art is contained within nature;
whoever discovers it, possesses it.
Food Bless You!
Asia Design Management Forum, Chief Food Advisor
