Nanjing Ming City Wall – Encountering Zhonghua Gate, the ‘World’s No.1 Wengcheng’

Travel time: February 2021

Transport: Metro Line 1, Zhonghuamen Station

Attraction: Zhonghua Gate City Wall

Address: South end of Zhonghua Road, Qinhuai District, Nanjing

Admission: 50 yuan

On Chinese New Year's Eve this year, I didn't need to prepare the family feast, so as a housewife who should have been busy at home, I found myself with some free time. The drizzly weather couldn't stop me from going out. Let's head to the Da Bao'en Temple! I'd never visited this popular attraction despite its fame for years. Off I went! I got off at Zhonghuamen Station on Metro Line 1. I'm quite familiar with Zhonghua Gate because my child is a train fan, and when he was little, I often brought him here to watch the trains. Back then, the Da Bao'en Temple didn't exist yet. After alighting at Zhonghuamen Station, I walked and soon arrived at the entrance of the Da Bao'en Temple. This glass pagoda was often visible when driving on elevated highways, and its grandeur could be seen from many spots in the southern part of the city. Today, I finally got to see it up close.

Strangely, the place was deserted. I thought it might be because everyone was busy at home on New Year's Eve, but when I looked, there were no staff at the ticket window. Unwilling to give up, I hadn't heard that the site was closed, so I wandered around. A few scattered visitors were also milling about, looking just as puzzled. I tried to find a notice or sign, but there was none. The official website didn't mention any closure either. The information hotline went unanswered. Left with no choice, I abandoned the plan, full of confusion.

I thought, 'How about heading to Aqua City?' Just then, a bus arrived, its colorful double-decker adding a warm touch to the city. I didn't board. Instead, I decided to walk to Aqua City; it was a good chance to explore the lanes of the southern city.

From the gate of the Da Bao'en Temple, I walked north along Yuhua Road. The Outer Qinhuai River flowed quietly, and in the drizzly gloom, it had a faint melancholy beauty.

Changgan Bridge over the Outer Qinhuai River. You might not guess its history from its reinforced concrete structure, since it is a rebuilt bridge. The original bridge was first constructed during the Yang Wu kingdom of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, and served as the direct route from the Southern Tang imperial street to outside the city. It was renovated in the early Ming Dynasty and renamed Jubaobridge. Wars through the ages destroyed it and it was rebuilt each time. In January 1951, the municipal construction bureau rebuilt it using reinforced concrete beam-slab structure, reusing the original bridge foundation for the piers. The first mayor, Liu Bocheng, inscribed the bridge's name. It was expanded again in 1975, becoming the bridge we see today.

The 'Changgan' in Li Bai's poem 'The Changgan Song': 'You came by on bamboo stilts, playing horse, / You walked about my seat, playing with blue plums.' / 'And we went on living in the village of Changgan: / Two small people, without dislike or suspicion.' The idiom 'childhood sweethearts' might have originated from Changgan Bridge, right?

Standing on the bridge and taking in the view: the glass pagoda behind yellow walls, patches of fir trees, red banners fluttering by the bank, and a few boats with yellow roofs and red hulls resting quietly on the river.

At the northern end of the bridge stood the majestic Zhonghua Gate. I had originally planned to turn left and right along Zhonghua Road heading further south. At this corner, I had a sudden whim: I'd never climbed up onto the Zhonghua Gate city wall, so why not today? True to the saying, 'Pass by, don't miss out!' I paid the 50 yuan entrance fee to ascend. Medical staff with the relevant card could enter free. Facing south, the Zhonghua Gate tower has three gold-inlaid characters '中华门' inscribed by Chiang Kai-shek above the archway. At over 20 meters high, Zhonghua Gate is the largest city gate still standing in China.

Stepping inside, I saw not just a gate but, to exaggerate a bit, a small fortress. From this perspective drawing, you can grasp the strict layout and unique structure of Zhonghua Gate: four sets of walls, with the spaces between each two called 'wengcheng' (barbicans). This creates three wengcheng and four arched gateways running through.

On the east and west sides of the wengcheng, there are sloping horse paths 11 meters wide and 86.1 meters long. These paths are steep and grand, leading directly to the top of the main gate. In wartime, they were used to swiftly transport military supplies up the wall, and commanders could ride their horses straight to the top.

A signpost on the city wall

From the east side of the fortification, I could see Zhonghua Road beneath me, as well as Xinminfang Road running parallel to the wall on the east, plus the East Zhonghua Gate arch. Zhonghua Gate was first built during the Yang Wu period, then expanded in the Ming Dynasty from the second to eighth year of the Hongwu reign (1369-1375) and called Jubaomen (Treasure Collection Gate). In 1931, the Nationalist Government renamed it Zhonghua Gate and added East Zhonghua Gate and West Zhonghua Gate on either side to accommodate traffic.

Stepping on centuries-old wall bricks, I climbed higher.

The main gate of Zhonghua Gate, the first gateway, has three levels: upper, middle, and lower. I followed the horse path straight up to the top, the third level. Originally, a watchtower with a hip-and-gable roof covered in cylindrical tiles stood here, but it was destroyed by Japanese artillery fire during the attack on Nanjing in early December 1937. Now only the platform remains.

To the south of the gate tower, at my feet, was the Outer Qinhuai River, Changgan Bridge, and Yuhua Road beyond. Nanjing is flanked by Purple Mountain in the east, Stone Mountain in the west, and the Yangtze River in the north; only the south is an open expanse. Zhonghua Gate sits right in this position, making it a crucial defensive checkpoint with immensely strategic terrain. In peacetime, it's a vital thoroughfare; in wartime, a key military stronghold, truly a place where 'one man guards the pass, ten thousand cannot break through.'

On the spacious platform atop the wall, a row of ancient defensive weapons was laid out.

An information panel described the Defense of Zhonghua Gate.

Leaning on a corner of the wall, I gazed at the wall itself and the city scene it embraced.

A topographic map with text and precise numbers told us the distances. I considered them but none fit my schedule for the day, so regretfully I gave up. Today I would just take a good look at the Zhonghua Gate tower. The journeys eastward and westward could wait for another day.

Standing on the tower looking down, I could see the western horse path and sense the layered structure of the fortification.

Here, text introduced West Zhonghua Gate, which symmetrically mirrors East Zhonghua Gate on either side of the main gate.

Below this section of wall is West Zhonghua Gate; an endless stream of vehicles passes through this archway from north to south—in the old days, that was leaving the city.

Next to the wall lies a cluster of old residences. With their gabled roofs covered in grey or red tiles, the houses are densely packed, and the passageways between them are narrow. The layout shows that this area has long been a populous and thriving place.

I hadn't planned to continue westward along the wall, so I turned back and walked a few steps eastward along the ramparts.

In times of war, this was a strategic point contested by all; in peacetime, Zhonghua Gate serves as a platform for ascending high and enjoying the scenery.

From the top of the wall, I looked southeast to the Da Bao'en Temple Relic Park. Thinking that although I hadn't visited my planned destination today, I had unexpectedly gained this trip to the Zhonghua Gate city wall; wasn't that a wonderful arrangement after all?

From the northeast corner of the wall, you can see Laomendong, a representative area of the old southern city.

Mendong is a concentration of traditional Nanjing residences; settlements appeared here as early as the Three Kingdoms period. During the Ming Dynasty, the area along Zhonghua Gate and the Inner Qinhuai River became the city's economic hub, a major distribution center for trade and handicrafts, presenting a bustling scene. From the late Qing Dynasty onward, areas like Laomendong and Laomenxi gradually became primarily residential. Today, traditional Chinese wooden buildings with horse-head walls have been reconstructed in the traditional style, showcasing traditional culture and recreating the original appearance of the old southern city.

At the foot of the wall, by the Qinhuai River, the historical old southern city was one of Nanjing's most developed commercial and residential areas.

Walking along the greenway on the wall, you can enjoy the Qinhuai River scenery. The urban cultural landscape of 'one city, one river, city and water merging together' is a feast for the eyes.

Not intending to hike far along the wall, I decided to take a close look at the structure of this outstanding example of ancient defensive architecture—the 'World's No. 1 Wengcheng'.

From this angle, you can see the first gate connecting to the second gate.

The first gate has three levels. The first level is the city wall, with the wengcheng passageway in the middle and three soldier-hiding caves on each side. The second level is the tower base, all brick-and-stone structures, with a row of seven soldier-hiding caves facing inward. These caves are lined up facing south, the middle one being the largest.

The second gate is 15.8 meters from the first, also with three levels, and the middle is the gateway passage, all brick-and-stone. Originally a gate tower stood above, but it was destroyed in war.

On the second level of the first gate, steps lead down directly into the fortress.

The distance between the second and third gates is 19.3 meters.

The passageway connecting the gates.

The main gate tower of Zhonghua Gate, the auxiliary gate towers, and the connecting wengcheng walls on both sides form the main structure of the inner barbican. The castle's plan is shaped like the Chinese character '目' (eye), composed of one gate, three wengcheng, 27 soldier-hiding caves, two ascents to the wall, and one ramp. It is a masterpiece of ancient Chinese military defensive architecture.

The soldier-hiding facilities of Zhonghua Gate's inner barbican played a crucial role in ancient cold-weapon warfare. When enemies launched a fierce attack, they could be lured into the gate and then cut off by closing each barrier, splitting them into three sections and destroying them piecemeal—much like the story of 'catching a turtle in a jar.'

From this side, I could see West Zhonghua Gate and the western horse path. Zhonghua Gate has lost its function as a checkpoint; today, East and West Zhonghua Gates on either side of the wall serve modern traffic duties.

Up close, I approached the soldier-hiding caves on the second level of the first gate. The bricks of the Zhonghua Gate wall include both large blocks and standard-sized bricks. The large bricks were bonded with a mixture of glutinous rice juice, lime, and tung oil, making them exceptionally strong. Most bricks are dense bluish-grey, a few are high-quality white porcelain bricks, and there are occasional red or yellow bricks. Each brick bears an inscription on its side, naming the county office and the year and month of manufacture; they are all of uniform specification. Constructed with this special mortar, the wall is extremely solid, standing majestically for hundreds of years without damage.

These so-called 'soldier-hiding caves' are actually brick archways with the inner end sealed off. In wartime, they could provide resting places for soldiers and storage for military supplies—a feature rare in other large ancient Chinese cities. Nowadays, they no longer serve their original military purpose. These caves, over forty meters deep and six to seven meters wide, are used as exhibition halls, hosting a variety of displays.

One of these caves was hosting a special Spring Festival exhibition titled 'City Bound Jubilation' under the theme 'Our Festivals'.

Dominated by red, the beautiful set design seemed to carry us through the natural charms of Nanjing.

The exhibition hall first introduced Zhonghua Gate.

The exhibition, themed 'Our Festivals,' focused on holiday customs closely linked to the Nanjing City Wall, presenting their origins, legends, and anecdotes. It narrated Spring Festival traditions from pasting New Year pictures and hanging spring couplets to celebrating Lantern Festival and 'walking off all ailments'.

The exhibition centered on China's most important traditional holiday—the Spring Festival—starting from the Laba sacrifice and Laba porridge on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month, letting visitors feel the increasingly festive atmosphere.

The exhibition not only promoted wall culture and folk customs but also furthered the integration of Nanjing's city wall with local traditions, contributing to the preservation and development of fine Chinese cultural heritage.

I learned a new custom: on the sixteenth day of the first lunar month, 'walking off all ailments.' This year on that day, I'll find a stretch of the wall to walk with my child, hoping for good luck.

Looking from inside the cave to the outside.

The theme of this cave's exhibition was 'A City – The Nanjing City Wall in Memories.' The Nanjing City Wall is the largest and most complete ancient brick wall in the world. After centuries and the ravages of war, the remaining wall now stretches 23.723 kilometers, encircling the city. The wall is easily seen from many places in Nanjing; it guards the lives of its residents and has been a companion to generation after generation. People live by it, pass through its gates. Children play by it, young people crisscross inside and outside the city for their studies, middle-aged folks go about their livelihoods by the moat—the wall holds countless stories and memories.

This exhibition collected stories from over 20 Nanjing residents who have lived under the city wall. They shared their wall memories. Among them were scholars, writers, actors, teachers... Though from different professions, they all treated the wall as home and told stories of home.

Zhonghua Gate, Jiefang Gate, Xuanwu Gate, Zhongshan Gate... these wall memories from common people are woven together, spanning nearly a century of wall history.

This cave was a cultural and creative products showroom, but it was locked securely.

This cave featured the exhibition 'Brick by Brick: The Making – Nanjing City Wall Brick Display.' Display boards on both sides explained the rich connotations of Nanjing's wall bricks through illustrated explanations, then-and-now comparisons, dynamic demonstrations, and physical exhibits covering materials, firing methods, production accountability systems, and brick inscriptions.

Breaking away from ancient norms and winding through Nanjing's landscape, the city wall is a product of the peak period of ancient Chinese city defense construction. As the 'molecules' composing the wall, the bricks themselves possess immense cultural heritage value. The Ming City Wall's top is paved with alkalized paths, the foundation is granite, and the wall is massive brick—having withstood centuries of weathering.

The inscriptions on the bricks make up the largest collection of brick texts in China, providing information about the place of manufacture and the craftsmen who fired them. This strict accountability system ensured the high quality of the bricks.

A map illustrated the distribution of brick production sites for the Ming Nanjing City Wall and their transport routes.

Having climbed to the top of Zhonghua Gate's barbican and marveled at its grandeur, I walked into the exhibition hall and learned about the cultural significance of each and every brick, savoring the 'brick' dedication behind them.

Another cave, another exhibition: 'The World's No. 1 Inner Barbican – Zhonghua Gate Display.'

Using illustrated panels, large video screens, and physical models, it offered an in-depth interpretation of Zhonghua Gate's barbican from perspectives of historical evolution, scale and structure, and cultural legends.

It introduced the historical development of Zhonghua Gate.

Text and images described the construction of the barbican.

A scale model of Zhonghua Gate.

The permanent exhibition 'Heritage · City Wall: The Fully Open Nanjing City Wall' was tucked away here.

Combining photos and videos, it showcased achievements in the restoration, research, publishing, exhibition exchange, cultural activities, and creative product development of the Nanjing City Wall. It also presented the history of its protection and opening along a timeline. These images and texts recorded the footsteps of wall preservation, giving us a systematic understanding of its past and present.

A schematic map outlined the frame of the Nanjing Ming City Wall. Construction began in 1366, and over the long centuries, this capital wall of the Ming Dynasty, though much weathered, still preserves 25.1 kilometers of wall and gates—the longest existing ancient city wall in the world. The surviving Ming Dynasty gates are Zhonghua Gate, Heping Gate, Qingliang Gate, Hanximen, and Zhongshan Gate. For traffic convenience, from the late Qing Dynasty onward, gates like Caochang Gate, Xuanwu Gate, Yijiang Gate, Wuding Gate, Hanzhong Gate, and Zhongyang Gate were opened successively. In 1954, Jiefang Gate was added southeast of Xuanwu Gate, and after the reform and opening up, Jiqing Gate in the west and Biaoying Gate in the east were opened. In the 1980s, large-scale restoration of the Nanjing City Wall began, and by 2014, the wall was fully opened to the public, with 33 access points set up along it. A 14-kilometer ecological greenway and slow-traffic path were built inside the wall, connecting the urban landscape of mountains, water, city, and forests, and outlining the beautiful Nanjing Ming City Wall scenic belt. I took a photo of this map with my phone; I plan to set aside time later to walk these sections of the Ming Wall. I look forward to standing on the restored wall, savoring the historical charm of the ancient capital Nanjing and appreciating its ever-changing cityscape.

Leaving the second-level caves, I walked down the horse path. Seeing the streaks of moss in the brick joints, a spontaneous feeling of age and gravity quietly crept into my heart. Reflecting on the rich exhibition themes in the caves, I gained a deeper understanding of the wall and more respect for it.

Looking back at the eastern horse path of Zhonghua Gate's barbican.

Looking up at the wall, even now we can clearly see the bullet marks and holes left from those war-torn years, traces of lime and glutinous rice mortar still visible in every brick joint, and the inscriptions fired onto each gray brick that have been weathered by centuries of wind and rain...

I circled the barbican and came to the north side.

Passing through the northern archway, I looked at the successive gates inside the barbican.

From the road, the towering city wall sits solemnly like Mount Tai, exuding a sense of time-worn depth and majestic grandeur that endears it to Nanjing residents and captivates visitors from afar.

Both the Inner and Outer Qinhuai Rivers flow east-west before and behind Zhonghua Gate, with Changgan Bridge connected to the south and Zhenhuai Bridge to the north.

Under Zhenhuai Bridge is the Qinhuai River. During the Southern Tang, the city limits were expanded for defense, enclosing the Qinhuai River within the city and digging a new moat outside, diverting the Qinhuai flow and creating what is now called the Outer Qinhuai River. Though the channel narrowed, the prosperity remained. Red mansions still stand, with horse-head walls lining the banks in rows. Riverside pavilions and houses were built right by the water, and from the inner gates east and west, the charming beauty of the Qinhuai scenery is on full display.