August 2, 2019 - 9.5-Day Self-Drive Tour of the Northwest Great Loop - Departing from Wuhan
Itinerary: Wuhan - Xi'an, Xi'an - Tianshui, Tianshui - Qinghai Lake (Chaka Salt Lake), Qinghai Lake - Dunhuang, Dunhuang - Zhangye, Zhangye - Lanzhou, Lanzhou - Wuhan
Half-day note: Vehicle: Classic Mazda 3 1.6 manual/automatic transmission. Total distance: 5000 km (round trip). All expenses: Around 10,000+ RMB for two adults and one child. I signed up for the highway ETC and got a discount on tolls, but I didn't calculate the exact amount. The key was it saved a lot of time (no need to wait in long queues at manual toll booths). Departure at 12:30 PM on August 2 from Lumo Road, Hongshan District, Wuhan. Arrived at a homestay near the Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum at 7:40 PM (booked on Ctrip before departure! Free parking, and it's only a 7-minute walk to the museum).
Day 1: Left at 7:30 AM. There were many breakfast stalls near the accommodation. Had breakfast and then visited the Terracotta Warriors. There weren't many people, probably because of the rain.
At 11:00 AM, headed to the Shaanxi History Museum. When we got to the entrance, we found out that advance tickets were required. Unfortunately, we couldn't go in. This was the only regret of the trip. Had lunch at a noodle shop across the street, then next stop: Giant Wild Goose Pagoda.
After searching for a while, there was no parking. So we just took a glimpse from afar. Didn't want to waste time, so hurried to Muslim Quarter for food.
First, checked into Qidian Inn near Muslim Quarter (booked on Ctrip). The parking lot is right downstairs, very convenient, 30 RMB per day. Parking spaces are very tight, depends on luck.
My wife was checking out trending food online.
The ice cream and Qinhuang crispy pastry at this shop tasted good.
The shadow puppet show in Gao's Grand Courtyard was nice, worth watching. Ticket price wasn't expensive, about 30 RMB per person. As for the trending food in Muslim Quarter, I can only say it's like Hubu Alley in Wuhan.
Came to Xi'an Yongning Gate too late; the performance had just ended.
Everything was closed. Went back to the inn to wash up and sleep.
Day 2: Departed at 8 AM for the Famen Temple (royal temple). For breakfast, had hulatang (pepper soup) in Muslim Quarter; my daughter ate a large bowl.
Arrived at 11 AM. When buying tickets, also purchased the Famen Temple vegetarian meal voucher. Had lunch at the temple.
The food was really good, and you could get refills if needed. Thumbs up!
The staff of Tang Monk. Departed at 3 PM for the next stop: Maijishan Grottoes in Tianshui. Booked a homestay on Ctrip; the host was nice and even gave us watermelon. Arrived at 6 PM.
Ordered three dishes and a flatbread at the homestay for dinner.
Day 3: Breakfast at 10 RMB per person. Entered the scenic area at 8 AM.
Departed at 10:30 AM for Qinghai Lake. Arrived at 8:30 PM. Huge temperature difference: in the morning we wore short sleeves, but at night we needed down jackets. Unfortunately, we didn't bring any! Luckily, the Ctrip hotel had electric blankets. Accommodation near Qinghai Lake is expensive; over 400 RMB for a decent room. Don't stay in those advertised tents online; they are definitely a scam.
Day 4: Departed at 8 AM for Qinghai Lake. This is our container room; below are tents. Tents are cheap but have no electric blankets. Might be okay if it doesn't rain.
Morning temperature was fine with a jacket.
Honestly, it's similar to East Lake in Wuhan, no need to go inside the scenic area. Enjoying the view while driving is enough. Rapeseed flowers were nice; 20 RMB per person to enter and take photos. Horse riding also available at negotiable prices. Note: There are no free toilets along the road from Qinghai Lake to Chaka Salt Lake, and paid ones are rare.
Qinghai Lake - Chaka Salt Lake
Arrived at Chaka Salt Lake around 2 PM. Traffic jam at the parking lot. The scenic area offers walking, electric carts, and a small train. I chose the small train, which turned out to be a good decision because the popular Sky Mirror spot is at the end of the train line. Those with good stamina can try walking.
At the salt lake, you must buy shoe covers (rentals available). We went barefoot and learned how painful it is; you can hardly walk in the water.
Departed at 6:30 PM for Delingha. Arrived at the Ctrip hotel around 8 PM. The hotel service was thoughtful; it was a luxurious single room, but when the staff saw we were a family of three, they immediately added an extra bed for free. Compared to the accommodation at Qinghai Lake, this was like heaven and earth.
Day 5: Delingha - Dunhuang Mingsha Mountain. Departed at 8 AM.
Arrived near Dunhuang Mingsha Mountain scenic area at 6 PM. My wife found a highly rated restaurant on Ctrip, supposedly ranked No.1 in Dunhuang. No parking in front of the shop. The food was delicious; lamb could be ordered in half portions.
The apricot peel tea tasted really good.
After eating, we could wander around.
Day 6: Crescent Moon Spring at Mingsha Mountain. You must try camel riding here.
Mingsha Mountain looks low but climbing it is really tiring!
Sand sledding, my daughter's favorite activity. She did it three times in a row.
Free attraction: Leiyin Temple from Journey to the West.
Dinner: Noodles with minced meat and black bean sauce (sàozi zhajiang noodles). Highly recommend.
I could eat two bowls of these noodles; they were so delicious. Just looking at the picture now makes my mouth water.
Day 7: Mogao Grottoes. Online ticket pickup was very convenient; just swipe your ID card.
On-site ticket counter only sells Category C tickets (just a dome movie and that's it). So be sure to buy tickets online before coming.
No photography is allowed inside the grottoes.
The original painting of Jiu Se Lu (Nine-Colored Deer) made my daughter very happy! Due to time, we didn't go to see the Feitian (Apsara) theater performance at Mogao.
Came out at 6 PM. Found a hotpot restaurant in downtown Dunhuang on Ctrip with good reviews.
Tasty! Two adults and one child ate four plates of lamb. Not expensive. Finished around 7 PM and headed to Guazhou for rest.
Arrived at the Ctrip hotel at 9 PM.
Day 8: Zhangye. Departed at 8 AM, arrived at 12:30 PM. Didn't go to Jiayuguan due to time.
The scenery after that didn't seem impressive. Left at 4 PM for Lanzhou to stay overnight. Arrived at the hotel after 10 PM.
Day 9: Lanzhou - Wuhan. Departed at 9 AM, arrived home at 2:30 AM.
The above is the itinerary for these 9.5 days. Along the road from Delingha to Dunhuang, there are no public toilets and very few gas stations, so whenever you see a gas station, fill up regardless of how much fuel you have. For Mogao Grottoes, you must book tickets on the official website at least one month in advance; without a ticket, the scenic area won't let you in. Be sure to book Category A tickets! Remember! Remember! Remember! The Shaanxi Provincial History Museum requires booking a week in advance!