Gansu-Qinghai Grand Loop: Chasing Dreams in the Northwest
This trip was the most relaxed one I've ever had, because I asked someone to plan the itinerary for us in advance, so we saved a lot of hassle along the way. Suddenly I realized we made a wise choice—I'm so clever! (The girl who helped plan our itinerary played a crucial role; feel free to contact her if needed.)
Time: 7 days Period: May Day holiday Cost per person: around 4500 RMB Travel companions: friends Style: independent travel, photography, food, budget-friendly
May 1: Departed from Lanzhou by bullet train to Xining. Someone picked us up in Xining and took us to check into our hotel.
May 2: From Xining to Kumbum Monastery (Tar Temple), then directly to Qinghai Lake. Stayed overnight in Chaka Town.
May 3: After waking up, went from Chaka Town to Chaka Salt Lake. Afterwards, passed through Delingha to reach Emerald Lake (翡翠湖). Checked into hotel in Dachaidan (大柴旦).
May 4: Departed from Dachaidan to Dunhuang, passing by the most beautiful highway and the Oil Town (石油小镇), then checked into hotel in Dunhuang.
May 5: Explored Dunhuang on our own, searched for local food, then visited Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring (鸣沙山-月牙泉). Stayed again in Dunhuang hotel.
May 6: Departed from Dunhuang to Jiayuguan, visited the Jiayuguan Fortress (嘉峪关城楼), then went to Zhangye Colorful Danxia (张掖七彩丹霞). Checked into hotel in Zhangye.
May 7: Departed from Zhangye, passed by Qilian Grassland, Menyuan, and Dabanshan Viewing Platform, then arrived in Xining and took bullet train back to Lanzhou.
We went during the May Day holiday, and with the pandemic this year, there were fewer people—this was the first time during a golden week that there were so few tourists. The specific costs are written in the travel diary~ Each of us spent about 4500 RMB. (By the way, travel should make you happy. Although I always believe in budget travel, being a girl, I can't bear too shabby accommodation. So our stay wasn't great but not too bad—at least we could wash up comfortably in our own room and sleep well. As a foodie, I couldn't skimp on food! It didn't exceed my budget; 4500 seemed very reasonable to me~)
Most travelers to the Northwest choose self-driving, carpooling/chartering, or joining a tour group. But if you want complete freedom, independent travel is the way to go. If you don't want to tire yourself out by driving, chartering/carpooling is the most worry-free and cost-effective way for the Northwest Grand Loop. Four of us found a young lady online, consulted her, signed up, and she arranged our itinerary and a reliable driver. We had a great time throughout the trip. (To be honest, in the Northwest, we previously couldn't come due to financial issues, and now work issues. But time is like water in a sponge—squeeze and it comes out, just like this trip~)
1. Sun protection: hat, sunglasses, mask, sunscreen, scarf...
2. Skincare: body lotion, face cream, mask, lip balm—must bring these; the weather is very dry.
3. Recommended to bring sports shoes and sandals; sandals are convenient in the desert.
4. Clothes: all kinds of beautiful dresses and outfits; you can change clothes in the car.
5. If worried about altitude sickness, bring Rhodiola oral liquid.
Starting from Xining, we were four, a reliable old driver, one car, beginning our Northwest Grand Loop tour...(A bowl of beef noodles before departure)
According to our itinerary, the first stop was Kumbum Monastery (Tar Temple). In Qinghai, if you want to find the most worldly place of faith, almost everyone will tell you to go to Tar Temple.
At the beginning of May, Tar Temple had just reopened, but it was still crowded. Every time I visit such Buddhist sites, I have a habit of not taking photos, and many places in Buddhist holy sites remind you not to take pictures. So I didn't take many photos at Tar Temple this time. Entering the temple, looking up, buildings of various heights and sizes gathered together. Passing through a Tibetan-style building to the temple square, the Eight Treasures Stupas (八宝如意塔) were clearly visible ahead, said to have been built to commemorate the eight great merits of Buddha Shakyamuni.
Tar Temple is the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, and one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug sect. The monastery has a history of over 600 years. After the baptism of time, it appears even more beautiful and mysterious...
Tar Temple is a holy site for Tibetan Buddhist believers. Although I don't fully understand every allusion and building in the monastery, following the pilgrims moving forward, entering the incense-filled Tar Temple, my heart became calmer. Amidst the profound Tibetan Buddhist culture, I underwent a purification of the soul.
Even if you are not religious, the architecture, murals, and applique embroidery (堆绣) of Tar Temple are worth seeing. Wandering through the various halls, exploring this treasure trove of Buddhist art and culture, every corner of the monastery showcases the long history of this Tibetan Buddhist institution and the wisdom of the monks.
1. Entrance fee: 70 RMB/person (but due to the pandemic, it was free)
2. Inside the temple, circumambulating stupas and prayer wheels is done clockwise.
3. In Tar Temple, no photography is allowed in the sutra halls and main halls.
4. To enter Tar Temple, you must wear appropriate clothing; shorts and short skirts are not allowed.
Qinghai Lake, also known as "Cuo Wenbu" in Tibetan meaning "blue sea", is located in the Qinghai Lake basin in northwestern Qinghai Province. It is the largest inland lake and the largest saltwater lake in China. It was formed by fault subsidence between Datong Mountain of the Qilian Mountains, Riyue Mountain, and Qinghai Nanshan.
The benefit of chartering a car is the freedom to travel. Whenever we saw a place we liked, we stopped to enjoy the scenery, completely free from time constraints, no need to worry about being herded like ducks. The scenery at each destination was beautiful, but the views along the way were even more captivating.
In May, in the Northwest, we could still see snow on the mountains. The only regret was not seeing the vast grasslands or the golden rapeseed flowers. When planning, I knew it wasn't the season for rapeseed flowers, but I wasn't disappointed. I adopted the attitude: "If we see them, good; if not, next time."
Doesn't it look like a weathered sphinx?
After a long journey, we finally reached Qinghai Lake—it was truly beautiful. The driver said we were lucky with the weather: blue sky, white clouds, and the azure lake water—gorgeous!
Isn't it beautiful?
We had a great time here, with blue sky, white clouds, and the lake's little sprites—seagulls.
You say the white clouds in the sky are the tides of the Milky Way
Without sweet longing
How can there be intoxicating drifting and warm clinging?
You say the stars in the sky are just memories of a thousand years
Without persistent waiting
How can there be eternal twinkling and unfathomable mystery?
Entering the mirror of the sky, beautiful Chaka
I see the sun, moon, and stars sharing a single horizon...
—— From "Entering the Mirror of the Sky"
A song called "Entering the Mirror of the Sky" has made Chaka Salt Lake a longing for many. In the passionate lyrics, you can feel the beauty of Chaka Salt Lake.
Chaka Salt Lake, also known as Chaka or Dabuxun Nur, is a natural crystalline salt lake located in Chaka Town, Wulan County, Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province. It is one of the four major salt lakes in the Qaidam Basin. "Chaka" is Tibetan for "salt pond", meaning salt from Qinghai; "Dabuxun Nur" is Mongolian, also meaning salt lake.
Chaka Salt Lake is one of the "Four Great Scenic Spots of Qinghai" and is known as China's "Mirror of the Sky." It was listed by National Geographic Traveler as one of the "55 places you must visit in your lifetime."
Is it like a dream? At this moment, the salt lake is undoubtedly a fairyland, a sacred place for everyone. It feels like being in a giant mirror world, where everything is symmetrical: the boundless blue sky, the endless mountains...
In Chaka Salt Lake, the sky is low, and large clouds seem within reach. Walking through it feels like being in the Mirror of the Sky. This fairy-tale world is so beautiful!
1. Entrance fee: 60 RMB (free due to the pandemic). Small train: 50 RMB one way per person. You can choose to take the train or walk inside.
2. Walking barefoot on the lake can be very painful; you can wear shoe covers. If you don't like the look, take them off when taking photos. (I experienced the pain of wearing only sandals without shoe covers.)
3. The best photography spots are deep in the salt lake. To get good photos without crowds, go deeper.
4. Choose bright-colored clothing for contrast with the salt lake and blue sky.
If Chaka Salt Lake is the Mirror of the Sky, then Dachaidan Emerald Lake is a brand new Mirror of the Sky. Some might say, since both are mirror of the sky, why include both in the itinerary? If Chaka Salt Lake is a grand lady, Emerald Lake is a delicate beauty; their beauty is distinct.
We left Chaka Salt Lake around noon. To reach Emerald Lake in the most beautiful dusk light (it's hundreds of kilometers from Chaka), we headed straight after lunch.
Arriving in Dachaidan, after a stretch of rough gravel road, we reached Emerald Lake. Here, blue-green water and white salt crystals blend together, peaceful and serene, like a gem dropped by God.
(I happened to capture a group of aunties in red dresses.)
Emerald Lake was named by the people of Qaidam for its jade-like water color. These lakes of varying sizes look as if God knocked over a palette, displaying beauty to the fullest.
Emerald Lake was originally a mining area for the Dachaidan Chemical Plant salt lake mining team. After years of mining, today's beautiful scenery emerged. The salt ponds—varying in size, shape, and depth—contain high-concentration brine locally called "bittern." Due to different mineral concentrations, various colors form. From our viewpoint, we saw individual lakes. If viewed from God's perspective, how spectacular would it be?
Emerald Lake's colors are not single: milky white, mint blue, jade green... like jade embedded in the earth. The white is pure milky white, the blue is crystal clear, and the green is love-at-first-sight jade green.
Perhaps we arrived when the sun was shining brightly, so most of the colors we saw were the same blue as the sky; we didn't encounter the translucent green seen in pictures.
Photos taken here are in no way inferior to the Mirror of the Sky at Chaka Salt Lake. When the wind calms, the lake mirrors the blue sky and white clouds, even the distant Qaidam snow peaks reflect before your eyes—a magnificent picture of mountain and water in one hue, indescribably wonderful. Standing there, seeing your own reflection at your feet, only those who come here can deeply feel it.
Just stand quietly by the salt lake, feel the coolness of the summer plateau lake, face the vastness, with the breeze brushing your cheeks, empty your mind, enjoy the peace and comfort.
In the twilight hour, the sky and salt lake transformed into another captivating scene.
I think God really loves this land, shattering precious gems and scattering them here. Nature, with its extraordinary craftsmanship, accumulated over time, created such a beautiful Emerald Lake—a sight that captures the heart at first glance and is unforgettable.
In the northwest of the Qaidam Basin in Haixi, Qinghai Province, lies a vast, magical land known as Yardang landform (Yadan). Because of its bizarre and grotesque terrain, erratic strong winds, eerie whistling sounds due to the unique topography, and the iron-rich rocks causing strong magnetic fields that often make compasses useless and cause disorientation, it's also called Yadan Ghost City.
Under the scorching sun, we drove toward Yadan Ghost City. The car sped along National Highway 315. The endless desert brought a sense of desolation. I thought, if one came here alone, wouldn't it feel despair? Cen Shen once wrote: "Have you not seen the camel trail by the snow sea, the vast desert yellow up to the sky? In Luntai, winds howl at night in September; boulders big as dippers roll across the ground."
But the Northwest is vast and sparsely populated. When the car pointed straight toward the sky on the road, a wild desert feeling felt familiar like a movie scene. I loved this free and joyful feeling! A herd of camels came into view.
We parked by the roadside and entered the Ghost City area. First glimpse of Yadan Ghost City left us stunned. The vast yardang landform stretching tens of kilometers beyond sight overturned my understanding of yardang.
Both the individual and overall scale of the yardang landform here, and the strangeness of the shapes, are rare in the world. Their heights range from four or five meters to twenty or thirty meters, lengths from ten to hundreds of meters. The whole area resembles a medieval city, with streets, buildings, squares, sculptures... vivid and lifelike. These natural masterpieces are incredibly skillful and wondrous, awe-inspiring!
Not a single blade of grass or any green is visible. The summer wind, mixed with sand and gravel, hits the face. Standing inside this ancient city, you truly realize how high the sky is, how vast the earth, and how insignificant humans are! This feeling can only be described as "awe."
Yadan Ghost City: a magical land. Yadan and ghost are like a beautiful face on a demon—mysterious and seductive.
The movie "The Legend of the Demon Cat" (九层妖塔) must be known to many. The small town in the movie that looks like a 3D model—the Oil Town—actually exists! Fans of Ghost Blowing Lamp series, look this way!
Before departure, I searched specifically for the mystery of Oil Town. I thought it would be hidden in an inaccessible place, but it turned out to be right by the road, as if waiting for travelers to relieve its loneliness.
This abandoned town, covered in yellow sand, felt like stepping into the territory of the American Wild West—exciting!
With excitement, we entered Oil Town. It really felt like stepping into the movie. Everywhere were dilapidated buildings and abandoned facilities. Though not as magnificent as other attractions, it was unexpectedly a great spot for photos!
One scene that left a strong impression in the movie was a bus stuck upside down in the ground. Surprisingly, it wasn't special effects! Seeing the real upside-down bus almost made me tear up with emotion. Without hesitation, we posed for photos!
Any wall or abandoned car could instantly give you that American Western movie vibe.
There are also many building remains from the 1980s: government buildings, cultural centers, gas stations, schools, small shops...
They no longer look glorious as in prosperous times, but stand here hunched, eroded by wind and sand over the years. The natural traces aren't as harsh as man-made destruction but carry more marks of time.
There are also abandoned cars, tanks, factories, overgrown with weeds, some even penetrating through these facilities. If you are a photography enthusiast or like taking unique photos, you'll be thrilled—this place is perfect for photos!
The gloomy yellowish earth tone is the background of an uninhabited area epic, mysterious and distant. It seems anyone standing there becomes a character in a movie canvas, carrying desolation across the desert, not caring where they come from or where they are going, just sharing this unique scene.
Oil Town has a magical charm. Walking along its paths, excitement and sadness intertwined. I wanted to stop at every quiet corner to take photos matching the movie, but seeing the town in ruins also evoked a sense of desolation. Bearing the weight of time, it allows us from modern cities to glimpse past life, even the changes of eras.
Address: 150 meters south of intersection of National Highway 215 and County Road 281, Aksai Kazakh Autonomous County, Jiuquan City. Old county seat of Aksai.
Ticket: 20 RMB/person
The beauty of Dunhuang, like its name, is distant and long. This small frontier city in the north possesses not only history but also the desert and a clear spring. So when visiting Dunhuang, besides the must-see Mogao Caves, Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring are not to be missed. However, due to the pandemic, the Mogao Caves were not open. Like the rapeseed flowers, it left another regret, giving me another excuse to revisit the Northwest.
Six kilometers south of Dunhuang lies a peculiar mountain. It is said the sand grains come in five colors: red, yellow, green, black, and white, fine and smooth. When sliding down, the sand makes a sound. Footprints from climbing disappear the next day. This is Mingsha Mountain.
We chose to enter the Mingsha Mountain scenic area in the late afternoon. A spectacular scene unfolded: camels carrying tourists winding through the vast desert, creating a unique charm.
How could we visit Mingsha Mountain without enjoying camel riding? It was my first time riding a camel. Camels are very gentle; no need to fear injury. In the boundless desert, the long camel train was a beautiful sight. On the camel's back, listening to the camel bells, enjoying our own moment in the desert.
Speaking of Mingsha Mountain, we must mention Crescent Moon Spring, which accompanies it. Crescent Moon Spring lies in a green basin surrounded by peaks of Mingsha Mountain. It is named for its crescent shape. Surrounded by Mingsha Mountain, it has never been covered by sand, always sparkling and crystal clear. Its wonder lies in the fact that moving sand never fills the spring.
Following the camel train, we arrived at Crescent Moon Spring. To see the full view, we had to climb to the top. I thought climbing Mingsha Mountain barefoot would be easy, but soon I was out of breath, and the sand underfoot roared. I realized climbing in the desert is no easy feat—kicking into the soft sand provides no leverage. Fortunately, the scenic area thoughtfully installed a ladder embedded in the sand, making the climb much easier.
Standing on Mingsha Mountain, looking down at Crescent Moon Spring, the crescent-shaped clear spring is like a young girl gently nestling in the embrace of Mingsha Mountain. Compared to Mingsha Mountain's ruggedness, Crescent Moon Spring appears more tender. It is said that since the Han Dynasty, it has been celebrated as one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Dunhuang," known as the "First Spring of the Desert." So when visiting Mingsha Mountain, you must come to Crescent Moon Spring.
Sitting on the sand hilltop, gazing at Crescent Moon Spring and the endless dunes, I finally experienced the desolation, vastness, and boundlessness captured in the poem: "A single smoke straight in the vast desert, a round sun setting over the long river." In Dunhuang, sunset always comes late—not disappearing below the horizon until 9 pm. So I always envy the long and interesting summer days in Dunhuang.
Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring: sand never touches the spring, they coexist, leaning on each other for thousands of years. I've heard the saying, "Mingsha Mountain cleanses the nature, Crescent Moon Spring cleanses the heart," offering a different kind of enjoyment. I think it is due to the care of Mingsha Mountain and the companionship of Crescent Moon Spring that this touching posture has come about.
Summer begins. Summer nights belong to the night market. Under twinkling lights, crowds flow, countless goods, endless food stalls, full of the breath of life and all flavors of life.
It seems every city has such a night market. As night falls and lights shine, tourists from all over the world gather in the dazzling night market, making it exceptionally lively. Dunhuang is no exception.
Shazhou Night Market, also known as Dunhuang Night Market, is located on Yangguan East Road in Dunhuang. It is a gathering place for Silk Road food and crafts, with distinctive local characteristics and rich folk customs. It is divided into different areas for snacks and handicrafts.
Everyone comes to the night market for different purposes. We seemed to come just for food. As foodies, we eat wherever we go, so we headed straight to the snack area. Here are gathered famous delicacies of Dunhuang: donkey meat yellow noodles, minced noodles (saozimian), liangpi (cold noodles), Dunhuang lamb offal, grilled lamb chops, lamb skewers, etc. There was such a variety that we wanted to eat everything, regretting our small stomachs.
Highly recommend the apricot peel water (xingpishui)—sour-sweet and thirst-quenching; cold is even better. I fell in love with it at first sip (I drank two cups). It is said to be made from Dunhuang's Liguang apricots. Once you leave Dunhuang, the apricot peel water is not as good. (Finished it; forgot to take a photo.)
Of course, there are also many handicrafts and local specialties. You can slowly browse and pick a few favorite gifts to take home. In short, if you want to eat well, buy nice things, or learn about Dunhuang's customs, Shazhou Night Market is the place to be.
When in Gansu, you must visit Jiayuguan, known as the "First and Greatest Pass Under Heaven." It is one of the three great wonders of the Great Wall and a famous World Cultural Heritage site.
Jiayuguan connects to the Hanging Great Wall of Heishan in the north and the First Pier in the south. Historically, it was called the "throat of Hexi" due to its strategic location and grand architecture, known as the "key to the frontier."
Standing outside Jiayuguan, I felt its majesty. Not only its scale but also its architectural arrangement is admirable. The Jiayuguan Fortress includes an inner city, outer city, rampart city, and jar-shaped city; outside the city, there is a moat. The camera couldn't capture everything. Only by standing at the foot of the fortress can you truly feel the shock of this massive project.
Hundreds of years ago, Jiayuguan faced the frontier, firmly locking China's western gate. Ascending the tower, looking into the distance, the desolate Gobi outside, covered with weeds in the wind, was spectacular. The plaque "First Pass Under Heaven" hung high. In front lay the endless Gobi, and the majestic vermilion tower, set against the jade-like snow peaks of the Qilian Mountains, appeared extraordinarily grand.
But through the ages, do not laugh if we lie drunk on the battlefield—how many ever return from ancient battles? How many sad songs of separation in life and death has this lofty desert fortress witnessed?
Sometimes humans feel as insignificant as dust, sometimes as great as giants. It's hard to imagine how, without large machinery, our Chinese ancestors built the Great Wall with such perseverance and faith. Every brick and tile embodies the sincere loyalty of ancient people to defend their homeland; every inch of land flows with the indomitable blood of the Chinese people.
Jiayuguan Fortress stands like a majestic general guarding the border, clad in golden armor and boots, holding a blood-soaked saber, standing solemnly on the city wall. It advances slowly from thousands of years ago toward us, telling the historical stories it has witnessed, through wind and frost, rain and snow.
Today, Jiayuguan is a grand historical attraction for us to observe history. For ancient people, it was a place full of sorrow. Borders were inevitably scenes of war. Many soldiers were buried here forever. On the city platform, the sweat and tears of homesick people remain. Walking close to the city felt like stepping into history—shock and poignancy intertwined in my heart.
Building the Great Wall was already extremely difficult; building it on this rugged mountain ridge was even harder. This trip to Jiayuguan took me from one shock to another without a break. Standing by the watchtower and beacon tower, looking at the scenery inside and outside the city, it wasn't as bleak as I imagined. Perhaps because it relies on Heishan, there was more green, not just sand buried. In the yellow sand desert, green represents infinite vitality, lightening the mood.
Here, not only the beacon tower stands, but also a training ground, commander's tent, war drums, chariots, stables... It seemed I could see soldiers and generals gathered in the tent discussing strategies to resist the enemy, for their family and country. This was where they devoted their life's effort. Even if they could only spend their whole lives with this vast sandy land, they would do so without regret.
Ticket: 110 RMB
An ancient poem says: "If you don't see the snow on Qilian Mountain's peaks, you might mistake Zhangye for Jiangnan." Zhangye is like a Gobi water town wrapped in wind and sand—warm and delicate yet rough and cold. Its charm lies in the cold night wind, the endless Gobi desert, and a story called Spring and Autumn...
On the Hexi Corridor, this colorful Danxia landform displays the beauty of nature to the fullest. The colors are like cinnabar, bright as rosy clouds. In the flowing light, it looks like a palette fallen from heaven, layered, with steep cliffs, majestic and imposing.
At the first sight of Colorful Danxia, before I could even admire, I thought of Zixia Fairy and Sun Wukong from A Chinese Odyssey: My destined one may not necessarily ride colorful clouds to marry me, but he will accompany me to see this Colorful Danxia and hold my hand amidst the magnificent colors.
Early morning, dusk, and after rain are the best times for photos. Though we didn't go at the most beautiful time, it was still enough to make me linger. Standing on the viewing platform, looking at this magnificent scene, with clear layers and colorful rocks, it's like an oil painting—not a scene that should exist in reality. Truly, the colors are like vermilion soil and bright clouds. To see this in one's lifetime is without regret. (But my photography skills are limited; I couldn't capture the effect below; that image is borrowed.)
Zhangye Colorful Danxia is mainly composed of red conglomerate, sandstone, and mudstone, developed in red strata from the Jurassic to the Tertiary period. It comprises various Danxia peaks formed by vertical joints in thick red sandstone and conglomerate. Along the road, rolling hills lined both sides. From the car, we could see layered colorful mountains contrasting with the blue sky and white clouds, like a great oil painting. At a hilltop viewpoint, immersed in this multicolored ocean, we could fully enjoy this stunning scenery rivaling the famous mountains.
Hard to say how many tens of thousands of years of rain erosion and weathering formed these strange rocks. From a distance, they harmoniously display their fiery red and gorgeous posture, unabashedly revealing their beauty and passion to the world, like the red arteries pulsating in our bodies, vast and powerful.
Ticket: 55 RMB + 20 RMB for electric car
In the final stretch of this trip, perhaps it was full of regret: rapeseed flowers were not in bloom, Qilian Grassland had no grass. But we could see groups of sheep, and black and white yaks. It had rained the night before, and the temperature was low, so the Qilian area was covered in snow—quite beautiful.
Standing on the viewing platform of Menyuan rapeseed flowers, looking at the continuous Qilian Mountains, I imagined the golden hundred-acre sea of rapeseed flowers—that had its own charm.
At the end of the trip, let's add a wave of food temptation. After all, a foodie's world never lacks food; a world without food is imperfect.
Thus, the 7-day, 6-night Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop came to an end. Thank you to our driver for showing us the most essential scenery of the Northwest and taking us to eat the most authentic local food. Every day was spent wonderfully.
Those places we didn't visit, those photos we didn't take, those words we didn't finish, I'll save for next time. After all, every trip needs a little regret to be perfect, right? Leave myself an excuse for the next trip.
That this trip could be completed so smoothly is thanks to the young lady who helped plan our itinerary. If anyone needs consultation or itinerary planning, you can contact her. She is very meticulous, patient, and professional.
Travel Diary Directory:
1. Life is like a journey; the destination is not the most important; what matters are the scenery along the way and the mood to enjoy it.
2. Itinerary route arrangement and tips:
3. Charter/carpool independent travel:
4. Essential items:
5. Holy pilgrimage site—Tar Temple
6. [Tips]
7. Highland lake—Qinghai Lake
8. Chaka Salt Lake, Mirror of the Sky
9. [Tips]
10. Fallen jade—Emerald Lake
11. Yadan Ghost City, desolate and magnificent
12. Oil Town, photo paradise
13. [Tips]
14. Mingsha Mountain: rugged desert sand, tender spring
15. Shazhou Night Market, Dunhuang's bustling side
16. First Pass Under Heaven—Jiayuguan
17. [Tips]
18. God's spilled paint—Colorful Danxia
19. [Tips]
20. Epilogue: splendid finale
21. Food chapter
22. Conclusion