Those Times on the Road: The Splendid Qinghai and Gansu Northwest Journey

The most direct benefit of the G20 Summit was an extra mini-vacation. Looking closely at the map, there were still a few provinces I had never set foot in, and the vast northwest was among them. Moreover, this season is quite suitable for traveling to the northwest. It turned out to be an extremely correct choice.

In ten days, I saw the desolate and barren desert.

In ten days, I saw the azure and profound Qinghai Lake.

In ten days, I saw the endless green grassland of the Qilian Mountains dotted with cattle and sheep.

In ten days, I saw the endless yellow sand of beacon fire and the Yangguan Road where no old friends are found west of Yangguan.

In ten days, I saw the incredibly magnificent and colorful Danxia landscape, like a rainbow on earth.

In ten days, I saw the dreamlike reflections of the Sky Mirror.

In ten days, I saw the surging Mother River.

In ten days, I experienced camping in the desert and sleeping under the stars.

In ten days, I fully appreciated the incomparably beautiful mountains and rivers of our motherland. The magnificent Gansu and Qinghai have so many enchanting beauties.

Let me start with two beautiful pictures to tempt the viewers, haha.

There are too many beautiful sights. Follow my steps to appreciate the magnificent China, the magnificent northwest—Gansu and Qinghai.

Lanzhou, in my impression, should be a city covered in dust, poor and backward. Before departure, my husband asked, 'What's the point of going to such a remote and poor northwest?' But after actually visiting the northwest, you realize it's really worth a visit.

My friend and I departed from Harbin and Shanghai respectively and met in Lanzhou. After meeting at the airport and checking into the hotel, we headed straight to the Mother River. We were eager to see the Yellow River, the Mother River that weighs a thousand pounds in our hearts and surges with the voice of China.

I had imagined the northwest to be infinitely desolate, with dust from the Loess Plateau filling the air. But in reality, Lanzhou was clean, and the air seemed not obviously polluted. On the way, the driver told us that since last year, Lanzhou has been sprinkling water 24 hours a day nonstop, which is why Lanzhou is so clean.

Thus, it became even more certain that only when we are on the road can we deeply appreciate the charm of seeing is believing.

Time always passes in a hurry, and in a blink, it was night. By the Yellow River, as dusk turned to night, there was more noise and more earthly烟火气.

After seeing the night scenery by the Yellow River, we went straight to Lanzhou's food street—Zhengning Road Night Market. There were so many delicious foods there. Before reaching the end of the street, we were already too full to walk.

After feasting, a foodie friend even carried two lamb trotters back to the hotel and devoured them before falling asleep. Perhaps in her dreams, she was still enjoying a hearty meal, haha.

The next day's itinerary was straight to Qinghai Lake, a relatively long distance. On this road, we would also experience the joy of cycling 15 kilometers around Qinghai Lake. Cycling was truly a wonderful experience.

The endless prairie accompanied by the rustling wheels, with cattle and sheep near and far, rushing under the sunny blue sky and white clouds—that galloping feeling truly made the heart fly with the wind. At that moment, I became one with nature; at that moment, I felt free flying in the sky. About four kilometers before the cycling destination, we suddenly saw that boundless azure appearing before our eyes. That was the moment our souls left our bodies.

At an altitude of over 3,000 meters, with no altitude sickness, the 15-kilometer cycling truly feasted our eyes on Qinghai's beauty. If there were more time, I wonder if I would have the courage to cycle around the entire Qinghai Lake.

When we entered the observation deck of Qinghai Lake and saw the lake up close, it felt like the sea—equally blue, equally boundless, and equally salty. But here, it's called a lake.

The colorful prayer flags by Qinghai Lake often entered my lens. I love the prayer flags fluttering in the wind. I love these vibrant colors. In Yading, in Jiuzhaigou, wherever I see prayer flags, I can't resist their charm. Let me clarify, I am really not a lecherous person, hehe.

In the evening, we stayed by Qinghai Lake, and from the room, we could see the boundless lake. However, the temperature at night was low, and the foodie friend even turned on the electric blanket when sleeping.

After dinner, we went to watch the sunset over Qinghai Lake. Unfortunately, the sunset glow was not particularly special.

The next morning, we woke up after a good night's sleep under a starry sky. Pulling back the curtain, the lakeside outside the window turned crimson due to the morning glow. Yaks and horses by the lake were bathed in the red glow. Standing by the lake, watching the gradually changing sky—from red to orange-yellow, then from orange-yellow to pale yellow—the light and shadow kept changing, but beauty never left our sight.

After watching the sunrise, we gathered and headed to China's Sky Mirror—Chaka Salt Lake.

The beautiful pictures of Bolivia's Uyuni Salt Flat had made me yearn for a long time, but it was too far away. Qinghai's Sky Mirror was so close to us; there was no reason not to come. So I chose this route that included the Sky Mirror. Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate; it started raining when we arrived. But it was still very beautiful. The rain added a different kind of hazy beauty to Chaka Salt Lake.

Although the weather didn't allow us to see the beautiful reflections under the sunlight, who says regret isn't a kind of beauty? It's because of regret that we have more anticipation and longing for the unseen scenery.

We stayed in Delingha that night, so after leaving Chaka Salt Lake, we took a bus for about four hours to reach Delingha. At night, it suddenly started raining heavily outside. Listening to the rain, I recalled Haizi's poem, "Sister, Tonight I Am in Delingha."

"Sister, Tonight I Am in Delingha"

Sister, tonight I am in Delingha, shrouded by night

Sister, tonight I have only the Gobi

At the end of the grassland, my hands are empty

In grief, I cannot hold a single teardrop

Sister, tonight I am in Delingha

This is a desolate city

......

Tonight I only have the beautiful Gobi, empty

Sister, tonight I care not about humanity, I only miss you

It seems that only on such a rainy night can one more deeply feel the sentiment in Haizi's poem—the helplessness of love unattained, the weariness of powerlessness, and the inner loss and helplessness, all vividly expressed in this poem.

No matter how much the night mourns for Haizi, in the morning we still had to bid farewell to this city that once held Haizi's longing.

Walking on the road,

Perhaps we also seek,

Perhaps we also have had longing,

Perhaps we also have had the sorrow of love,

But all these thoughts on the road will drift away with the wind, fading away...

Tonight, we would camp at Mingsha Mountain. Starting from Delingha, we first visited a scenic spot along the way—Delingha's Keluke Lake. This lake is half saltwater and half freshwater. This magical natural wonder becomes even more mysterious because of a beautiful love legend.

It is said that by the lakeside in the desert lived a Mongolian tribe. The tribal king's daughter, Keluke, was rescued by a young man named Tuosu during a storm, and they fell in love. The king therefore set a difficult task for Tuosu, demanding that he fetch salt from the Qaidam Basin before allowing Keluke to marry him. Tuosu, exhausted from the long journey, collapsed and was found by his beloved Keluke. They held hands and fell into eternal sleep. Where they lay, a lake appeared, half saltwater and half freshwater.

I think the most eye-catching thing in this world is various love legends, because too many people want to have a romantic, legendary, and passionate love. But what is truly reassuring is the mundane marriage that lasts a lifetime. So cherish the good, keep the ordinary, and let time be peaceful—that is the ultimate pursuit of our lives.

A few years ago, when I traversed the Taklamakan Desert, I especially loved the feeling in the desert. This camping trip had been long anticipated, so I was full of joy and excitement for the night camping. When we arrived at the foot of Mingsha Mountain in the evening, the dark clouds from Delingha had already dissipated. A big red sun hung obliquely in the sky, squinting at us mortals. After experiencing the thrilling desert motorcycles, we climbed the high sand dunes barefoot and sat in the vast desert, which was still warm, waiting for the sunset.

After watching the desert sunset, the night feast began. Tonight's dinner was a desert barbecue. The roasted whole lamb was so delicious and unforgettable. Even I, who doesn't eat lamb, found it truly a feast of flavors.

As night fell, a beautiful bonfire was lit. The burning flames ignited the passion in our hearts. Brothers and sisters from all over the world held hands, reveling and dancing around the bonfire. At this moment, love knows no boundaries, and hearts know no limits.

Bathed in starlight all night, I thought of climbing the sand mountain again to watch the sunrise. But the sun here was lazy; it wouldn't show its face until after 7:30. By then, we were already on our way to Crescent Moon Spring. Fortunately, before going to Crescent Moon Spring, we rode camels on Mingsha Mountain, and we saw a bit of the slowly emerging morning glow.

Because I had climbed the sand dunes earlier, I was physically exhausted. At Crescent Moon Spring, I didn't climb the nearby dunes or view the spring from above. I took a photo at the observation deck and then returned to gather.

That night, we stayed in Dunhuang. Due to the Dunhuang Cultural Expo, entry and exit checks were very strict, so it was evening again after entering the city. After dinner, we went to watch the desert live-action drama "Dunhuang Grand Ceremony."

"There is only one Dunhuang in the world, and only one Mogao Caves for humanity." Indeed, it lives up to its reputation. The exquisite murals and statues inside the Mogao Caves are breathtaking and shocking. Of course, these stunning murals are not allowed to be photographed, so if you want to see the beauty of the murals and those world-class statues, come and experience them in person.

Often, photos can only be an external attraction to draw your steps, but what truly makes us want to travel and feel is the feeling of being on the road.

The Mogao Caves, which have endured several calamities, are truly the essence of ancient Chinese culture. The damaged murals and lost artifacts record the unparalleled glory of our Chinese nation.

Cave 329 caught my special attention because of Sanmao's visit and her article about a dialogue with the Buddha inside the cave. Unfortunately, the caves we visited that day did not include Cave 329. (To protect the artifacts and reduce damage, each visitor may see different caves.)

After spending the morning visiting the Mogao Caves, in the afternoon we went to the Yangguan Road to see the beacon fire site where no old friends are found west of Yangguan.

The endless Yangguan Road—how much smoke of war had it seen?

The endless Yangguan Road—how many tears of farewell had it witnessed?

Jiayuguan, the western starting point of the Ming Great Wall. Our ancestors were truly wise. Seeing these historical and heavily significant sites always fills me with admiration. At the same time, I feel deeply ashamed of my own insufficient knowledge.

After seeing Jiayuguan, which carries a strong sense of history, we drove to Zhangye Danxia.

Zhangye Danxia landform is incredibly magical. The multicolored Danxia looks more like a freehand painting by skilled artisans on the earth.

The Danxia landforms seen from the four observation decks each have their own characteristics. The most beautiful and dazzling is Observation Deck No. 4, so you can spend less time at the first three and enjoy a visual feast at No. 4 slowly.

The most beautiful Observation Deck No. 4 is so stunning that it makes people linger and forget to leave, breathtakingly beautiful. The colorful Danxia leaps vividly before the eyes. I couldn't believe my eyes. Nature can really surprise one beyond words. At this moment, no language can compare to the natural masterpiece.

The high and low, crisscrossing colorful patches paint the earth extraordinarily magnificent. At this moment, all one can do is exclaim in awe. It's so beautiful! Because of my obsession with this beauty, I had my only late arrival during this trip. Can I be blamed for being infatuated with "color"? Haha...

The trip was nearing its end, but the scenery became more and more beautiful, making it increasingly hard to leave. So I couldn't bear to sleep during the entire journey on the road.

Because the road to the Qilian Mountain grassland was washed out by heavy rain, we changed to take the bullet train to Menyuan and then by car to Qilian County.

On the way from Menyuan to Qilian, the scenery outside the window kept changing: sometimes misty clouds enveloped the peaks, sometimes large herds of yaks marched in line on the endless green carpet, sometimes sheep like white pearls were embedded in the grassland, sometimes winding rivers flowed before the eyes...

The scenery kept changing, and our eyes were too busy feasting. Here are a few more photos to feast your eyes.

The guide took us to a local pasture, where we experienced the charm of large flocks of sheep up close and saw the herders' homes. A white sheepdog started barking when it saw us approaching the flock, stopping only when we halted.

After seeing the boundless prairie like a carpet, the leisurely herds of cattle and sheep, and the clouds dyeing the winding mountains, we reached our destination for the night, Qilian County.

How could such a beautiful trip be without good food? The highland hotpot warmed our bodies and hearts on this slightly chilly night.

The next morning, we set off for Xining in the morning glow. I thought I would catch up on sleep in the car, but the Qilian grassland in the morning glow was so breathtakingly beautiful that I completely forgot my fatigue. I kept busy taking photos from the moving car, letting my eyes enjoy as much beauty as possible.

These four-plus hours were not a journey to let you sleep soundly.

These four-plus hours were a magnificent journey to feast your eyes.

These four-plus hours were a journey to nourish your eyes and soul.

These four-plus hours were an unforgettable journey.

Arriving in Xining at noon, after lunch, we visited the last attraction of this trip—Tar Temple.

Tar Temple, built in 1377, was founded in memory of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school. It is also a center for Tibetan Buddhist activities in the northwest. The temple is famous for its three artistic treasures: butter sculptures, murals, and applique thangkas. Photography is not allowed inside the temple, so most photos were taken of the exterior.

After listening to the guide's professional explanation, I finally gained a basic understanding of Tar Temple's past and present. I felt great respect for those prostrating pilgrims in front of the temple. For their faith, they perform 100,000 prostrations in their lifetime! According to the guide, devout followers with good health can finish in two to three months, while those in poorer health may take one to two years. While admiring them, I seriously despised myself, because I would never be as devout as they are to perform such prostrations.

After visiting Tar Temple, the trip came to an end.

In the afternoon, we drove back to Lanzhou, another nearly five hours of driving. On this road, there were also beautiful sceneries, but they were completely different from the vast grasslands from Qilian to Xining. Outside the window was an endless Gobi desert, with occasional sparse low shrubs, far from lush.

Ten days, nearly 3,000 kilometers, ended amidst all kinds of beauty, wonder, and amazement.

The itinerary included grasslands, lakes, deserts, mountains, temples, the marvelous Danxia landforms, and the historically weathered great pass and the ancient road of beacon fire.

Anyone who says they are not tired is just fooling around. But such a joyful journey always brings you different experiences. These experiences are the reason we hit the road; these experiences are the pursuit we can never give up in our lifetime.