Chaka Salt Lake~ From One to Ten, Recording My 3000 Kilometers in the Northwest (With a Heartfelt Qinghai Lake Travel Outfit and Photography Guide)
A Jiu: Cola, have you been to Qinghai or Dunhuang? Cola Le: No. A Jiu: Want to go? Cola Le: Hmm, is it that vast Northwest with enormous spaces and few people... A Jiu: Yes, the scenery is amazing! I'll take the photos, you just focus on looking beautiful! Cola Le: Huh? Okay, let's go! — From the mobile of Cola Le and A Jiu
So, my impression of the Northwest is vast and sparsely populated. I hoped: the journey would reveal scenes as grand as in movies! The endless deserts, the mysterious Mogao Caves I'd read about in primary school textbooks, or the mirror of the sky that leaves only you... All these whispered inside me: one day, I must go there! Sometimes dreams are magical. If you persist, those deep desires gradually become reality. So, persevere, live the life you most want, and have the happiness you desire! Well, now let's look at my past dreams and the surprises along the way!
Without seeing Chaka Salt Lake, I was mesmerized by Emerald Lake!
Laji Mountain immersed in the blessings of prayer flags, blooming with laughter!
Zhangye Danxia, which I'd seen on WeChat moments long ago, finally under my feet!
Mogao Caves - Dunhuang is not just Mogao, but also deserts and lovely camels!
The sunset at Mingsha Mountain was unbelievably beautiful!!
Wusute Yardang Geopark
Wusute Yardang Geopark
Wusute Yardang Geopark - First time at the Ghost City, lucky to have escaped.
Tar Temple - Still can't get used to the smell of butter...
3000 kilometers, traveled the most beautiful 109 line and Route 66, but what I can't forget most is the frenzy and joy by Qinghai Lake.
Qinghai Lake - Well, after the highlights, dear guests don't leave yet; more excitement is still ahead! ... Two best friends: A Jiu: Cola, are you from Wenzhou too? Cola Le: Yes! You too? A Jiu: Yes! Fellow townsfolk meeting far from home, tears in our eyes! Let's briefly introduce ourselves! Cola Le and A Jiu, both love eating, drinking, and taking photos, determined to travel the world and make big money, haha! One is Cola Le who loves being photographed beautifully! The other is A Jiu who has superb photography skills and loves snapping away! Because of a fateful event, we became best friends.
1. About Food: Before coming to the Northwest, my impression of its cuisine was: all kinds of noodles. After arriving, the summary is: noodles + beef and mutton + various snacks + dairy products. Compared with other regions, the food style in the Northwest is simple, rough, natural, and hearty.
Shazhou Night Market - Noodles eaten every day. The Northwest region has the problem of "noodles as staple, more meat, fewer vegetables." The most famous Northwest dishes are mostly noodles. Traditional breakfast is a bowl of beef noodles, lunch and dinner are bowls of noodles. They say if they eat rice, they never feel full. Here are the noodle slices and firecracker noodles we had.
Can't do without beef and mutton. This is the largest Shazhou Night Market in Dunhuang, which completely changed my impression of night markets. I thought night markets were about various snack stalls, but here it's a street of barbecue and late-night snacks.
Yes, here you can enjoy a hundred ways of eating beef and mutton: hand-held mutton, lamb skewers, whole roasted lamb, braised lamb in a pot, lamb head in clay pot, and also Xinjiang big plate chicken. Because the smell of beef and mutton is strong, the cooking usually involves many seasonings and grilling, so remember to eat in moderation!
Finally, I can recommend the dried fruits here. The Northwest is very close to Xinjiang, so all kinds of dried fruits are abundant: Li Guangxing apricots, Mingsha dates, various raisins, many with names I'd never heard. I also bought a batch, eating them while writing travel notes at home, a healthy snack by the side.
2. About Accommodation: Accommodation in the Northwest is generally simple, usually around three-star hotels. Strangely, many hotels have triple rooms. Most hotels use solar water heaters, so hot water might be an issue, be aware! From Xining to Dunhuang and back to Xining, the local infrastructure improved noticeably, and hotels became more modern. So the Jinshawan Villa in Dunhuang was considered luxurious, but I still preferred the one in Heima River; it was my first time seeing a triple room with electric blanket, so novel.
3. About Transportation: When coming to the Northwest, you must hire a car with a driver! I used to hear many friends say driving yourself to Tibet is cool. But after this trip with a hired car, I think self-driving is self-torture! Because the driver is really tired; our driver drove 3000 km, drinking Red Bull and coffee to stay alert, very hardworking! Fortunately, we found a hired driver online, and I really, really liked him!
What's good about hiring a car? First, the driver is very familiar with the route, so no worries about taking wrong turns and can manage time well! Our driver had been running this route for over ten years; just talk about the spots, and he knows if you're on a few-day trip, really amazing! I'll leave his contact here for those who need it! Driver's WeChat: 186-97︿(￣︶￣)︿10-0650. Second, he takes you to eat well and drink well without breaking the bank. Because he's always on this route, he knows the best local places for food and lodging. Every restaurant we went to was highly recognized by locals with good reputations, so every meal was authentic and delicious. Third, we really made a new friend. Haha, our driver, though not talkative, was very humorous. Thanks to his guidance over these days, chatting and learning about local customs was a lot of fun. Attached is a handsome photo of him; can anyone tell he's a post-90s?
Four Colors: They say the best seasons to visit the Northwest are June, July, and August, to see the blue of Qinghai Lake, the green of Qilian Grassland, the clarity of Chaka Salt Lake, and the rapeseed flowers of Menyuan. But I don't regret coming in this off-season. Although Chaka Salt Lake wasn't open yet, there were few people! I'd rather see the natural beauty of the Northwest than crowds. So I recommend off-peak travel; the naturally beautiful Northwest is gorgeous anytime, including April. The main colors seen in the Northwest this season are red, yellow, blue, and white. Red—Zhangye Danxia landform
Zhangye Yellow—yellow of Mingsha Mountain and Yardan
Wusute Yardang Geopark Blue—Qinghai Lake
Qinghai Lake White—the white of salt lake
Emerald Lake
Five Preparations:
First, check the weather and pack clothes. Xining has huge temperature differences between day and night; you can wear short sleeves during the day but need a thick coat at night. So for April, I suggest wearing spring/autumn clothes inside with a thick jacket outside. The picture below shows the temperature and weather on our days!
Second, sun protection is a must. In the dry, high-altitude Northwest, UV is much stronger than in coastal Zhejiang, so be sure to protect yourself! Especially when going outdoors; I sprayed Anessa every 2 hours. I think Anessa is the best sunscreen in the world, but my travel buddy's Water Babies spray also seemed good! Third, rest and prevent altitude sickness. The Qinghai area we visited is over 3000 meters above sea level, while Zhejiang is only a few hundred meters, so be cautious. However, many say altitude sickness is psychological; I had no particular reaction except occasional tinnitus. Fourth, bring medicine. Before coming, a friend gave me some antipyretic and anti-inflammatory medicine because the Northwest is dry and most food is grilled, so you can easily get overheated. I suggest drinking plenty of water and balancing meals with vegetables and fruits. But vegetables are very precious in the Northwest! Fifth, bring photography gear. This was my first time experiencing the power of a telephoto lens. Many views in the Northwest are stunning; for portraits, you need a telephoto lens; for landscapes, you need a wide-angle lens; you won't regret it!
Six-Day Itinerary: This is a very mature route, with many people going every summer. But I recommend off-peak travel; the scenery is also great. Most importantly, no traffic jams and no queues, haha! We left all the route arrangements to our driver; this is a lazy person's travel guide, haha! Here's our route, starting and ending in Xining, very clear! You can use it as a reference!
D1: Xining—Tar Temple—Eight-Petal Lotus—Laji Mountain—Qinghai Lake 151 Scenic Area—Heima River [Stay in Heima River Township]
D2: Chaka Salt Lake (opens April 26)—Dachaidan Emerald Lake [Stay in Dachaidan Town]
D3: Dachaidan—Nanbaxian Yardang—Water Yardang—Akesai—Dunhuang [Stay near Mingsha Mountain, Dunhuang]
D4: Morning: Mogao Caves, Afternoon: Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Spring (sunset) [Stay in Dunhuang]
D5: Depart Dunhuang—Guazhou (taste melons)—Jiayuguan—Zhangye Colorful Danxia—Zhangye [Stay in Caise Town, Zhangye City]
D6: Zhangye—Bian Dukou—Menyuan—Cross Daban Mountain—Xining
Seven Outfits: Cola Le: A Jiu, how many days are we going? A Jiu: Six days total! Cola Le: I brought seven outfits! Haha, that's me, a travel photographer who loves taking photos. I've been to many countries, seen many landscapes, and always like to look beautiful in photos.
Every time I travel, besides plane tickets and hotels, a large sum goes to clothes. Because the coordination of clothing with the overall environment is crucial for a photo. So I attach great importance to choosing clothes before leaving. After all, who doesn't want to look beautiful while traveling! This time I prepared seven outfits and wore them all. Don't ask why I wore seven in six days; I just want to say the clothes matched the environment perfectly. Many girls asked me where I bought them, hehe.
1. Red and White Vintage Set: Pilgrimage journey. In Qinghai, there are many Tibetans, so you'll see a lot of prayer flags. They are called prayer flags because the banners are printed with Buddhist scriptures. For believers in Tibetan Buddhism, when the wind blows and the flags flutter, it's equivalent to reciting the scriptures once, continuously conveying people's wishes to the gods, praying for protection. Thus, prayer flags become a link between gods and humans. Where the wind flag is, the gods are present, and people's prayers are there. The flags carry beautiful wishes. The colors of prayer flags are fixed, five-colored. So if the background is colorful, to blend in well and stand out, white is the best choice!
Laji Mountain
2. What's more striking than a little yellow dress at Dachaidan Salt Lake? When taking photos, you must use contrasting colors. I checked the general color of the salt lake beforehand—whitish and blue—so yellow or red are the best colors for photos, making you pop out at first glance! See, can you spot me immediately?
Emerald Lake
3. Red dress is definitely standard for Dunhuang desert. Before coming, I saw many sample photos; in the desert, red long dresses are the norm. So a red dress or ethnic-style maxi dress is essential for the desert!
Mingsha Mountain
4. At Zhangye's Colorful Danxia, be a simple little red riding hood. Because of the colorful Danxia, I chose white today. Everyone knows I love red and yellow, but at the red-yellow toned Danxia, to avoid color clash, white is the best match.
Zhangye
5. If you don't dress brightly, how can you escape the Ghost City? Observant friends may have noticed that the Ghost City's tones are similar to the desert, so my recommendation is still red or a bright color that doesn't clash.
6. Five colors by Qinghai Lake. The lakeside colors are simple—blue and white—so we brought balloons this time, plus the colors of our clothes, to make five colors. Isn't it rich and beautiful!
Qinghai Lake
7. Embellish Mogao's beauty with a little floral dress. This set was also a random match. I just want to say that under such historically grand scenes, a touch of freshness works great!
Mogao Caves
Eight Poses: In the past, even though I'd learned many poses from Liu Wen and Ni Ni, I'd still run out of ideas in front of the camera. So here are some surefire signature poses I summarized from this trip, sharing with you! First, chin on hand. This was the most used pose! A blessing for those with a big face; it works every time. This picture is a mobile check-in at a Xining restaurant; with chin on hand, it's not bad, right?
Second, interact. I'm not posting this to suggest riding a camel; I think photos can tell the story and fun of a journey. So seize all unique features of the trip for photos and interaction; the results will be unexpectedly good! This picture was featured on Wengweng, making me happy!
Third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth—see the pictures, hehe!
Nine Attractions:
First stop: Tar Temple—A pilgrimage in Xining
We hired a guide here! A guide sister costs 120 yuan; otherwise, we couldn't understand! Tar Temple is named because the temple was built after the tower. It is built against the mountain, with Dajinwa Temple, Xiaojinwa Temple, Hua Temple, Grand Sutra Hall, Nine-Room Hall, Dalalang, Ruyi Pagoda, Taiping Pagoda, Bodhi Pagoda, Gate Pagoda, and other buildings totaling over 1,000 courtyards and 4,500 rooms, vast in scale. It has been the center of the Yellow Sect and a Buddhist holy site since ancient times.
The temple architecture combines Han palace and Tibetan flat-roof styles, ingeniously integrating Han triple-eave hip-and-gable roofs with Tibetan features like walls of piled hemp, inscribed mantras, bronze mirrors, and brickwork, forming a harmonious complex of Han-Tibetan art.
Tar Temple is not only a Lamaist holy site in China but also one of the advanced institutions cultivating large numbers of Tibetan intellectuals. It has four colleges: Exoteric Buddhism, Esoteric Buddhism, Astronomy, and Medicine. Lamas are monks with the highest education through progressive learning! You will also see devout pilgrims prostrating themselves, some for up to a month.
What left a deep impression was a precious Bodhi tree in Tar Temple; only the fortunate can find its leaves. Unfortunately, the Bodhi tree had lost all its leaves in winter, so I couldn't find any.
There is an Eight Treasures Ruyi Pagoda in Tar Temple, a symbol of the temple. It is said that those who come to worship walk clockwise around the pagoda to fulfill their wishes. So I also made a wish in front of it!
Finally, I introduce the "Three Wonders of Tar Temple Art": butter sculpture, murals, and appliqué. Since photography is not allowed in the halls, our driver recommended a place called "Eight-Petal Lotus Intangible Cultural Heritage Inheritance Experience Center." There, you can see displays of these three arts and take photos!
The Eight-Petal Lotus center is 500 meters from Tar Temple; from above, eight mountains surround Tar Temple like a blooming lotus. The center sits on one of these mountains, hence the name.
Now, let's introduce the three wonders! Murals: Painted on the walls of halls. Most are on cloth canopies, some directly on walls and beams. The pigments are mineral, bright and long-lasting. The style belongs to Lamaist religious painting, slightly different from Han painting, with strong Indian-Tibetan flavor. Content mostly from Buddhist scriptures and esoteric classics.
Butter sculpture: Made from butter (handmade butter) mixed with various pigments. Legend says it originated in Tibet; when Princess Wencheng of Tang married Songtsen Gampo, she brought a Buddha statue to Lhasa's Jokhang Temple. In severe winter, no fresh flowers to offer, so believers made butter flowers. This became a Tibetan custom. In 1594, the art spread to Tar Temple, where monks developed it into a unique oil sculpture art. Every year on the 15th day of the first lunar month, the monks display their delicate butter sculptures, an annual temple festival.
Appliqué: A unique Tibetan art form created by Tar Temple. It uses colored satin cut into shapes (Buddha, flowers, birds, animals), stuffed with wool or cotton, and sewn onto cloth. Because of the raised center, it has a strong three-dimensional effect. Appliqué includes embroidery and cut-appliqué, with themes mostly from Buddhist stories and religious life.
The exhibition center is very large, integrating over ten intangible cultural heritages such as "Huangzhong Appliqué, Huangzhong Silver and Copperware Making and Gilding, Jia'ya Tibetan Carpet Weaving, Huangzhong Silk Inlay, Huangzhong Carving, Huangzhong Peasant Painting, Huangzhong Folk Painted Clay Sculpture, Huangzhong Murals." Here you can witness the wonder of these heritages and experience local crafts. This is a scene of several masters painting murals; you can also see the gilding process.
The entire exhibition hall is a treasure trove, storing dozens of Tibetan cultural art pieces, and also features Qinghai specialty dining, electronic interactive experiences, costume experiences, etc. It gathers the intangible cultural heritage of the entire Xining area, very worth visiting.
Second stop: Laji Mountain—Colorful prayer flags on the 3000 km road. On this 3000 km Northwest loop, we saw many colorful prayer flags of Tibetan people. At Laji Mountain, we were lucky to see vast fields of them.
Prayer flags are a unique sight on the Tibetan Plateau; in Sichuan, Qinghai, Gansu, Yunnan, and also Nepal, Sikkim, Kashmir, we see strings of colored flags printed with mantras on cloth, linen, silk, and paper. These square, triangular, strip-shaped flags are fixed on doors, ropes, poles, and branches, swaying between earth and sky, creating a connection. Strings of colorful flags hung on pavilions and trees, densely printed with Tibetan mantras, scriptures, Buddha images, and auspicious symbols. They are called "prayer flags" in Tibetan areas. They have many religious meanings and are also artistic pieces.
1. Origin: There are roughly three forms: one is blue, white, red, green, yellow square blocks sewn on a long rope, hung between two mountains, common in remote high mountains.
The second is a narrow strip of cloth, single color, printed with Buddhist teachings, sewn onto a long pole placed in the courtyard, seen in Gongbu forest areas.
The third is five star-shaped plain strips and a main square piece with border, with mantras and animal patterns, tied to willow branches as prayer flags.
Prayer flags are called so because they are printed with scriptures. For believers, each flutter is a recitation, continuously conveying wishes to the gods for protection. Thus they connect gods and humans. Where the wind flag is, gods are present and prayers are made.
The colors are fixed and cannot be altered. The order is strictly regulated. The meaning is not to beautify the environment but to pray for good fortune and eliminate disasters.
The five strips' colors and symbolism: top blue symbolizes blue sky; below blue is white symbolizing white clouds; below white is red symbolizing fire; below red is green symbolizing green water; bottom is yellow symbolizing yellow earth or land. This arrangement mirrors the natural world's solid form, so the colors cannot be disordered.
The five colors represent five natural phenomena essential for life. When nature is balanced and harmonious, peace and happiness prevail; when nature brings disasters, humans suffer. People living on the plateau are sensitive to nature's changes. They use the five colors to express their hope for nature's peace.
Prayer flags are called "Lungta" in Tibetan. Besides color symbolism, there are texts and patterns: densely printed Tibetan letters and lifelike animal motifs. It is said that prayer flags originated from ancient Tibetan worship of mountain gods. They often have mantras, Buddha images, and divine horses, a product of ancient Bon culture, Tibetan Buddhist esoteric culture, and other ethnic cultures.
Hanging prayer flags is a religious custom passed down for centuries, with merits of self-cultivation and benefiting sentient beings. Each time the wind blows the flags, it is as if the scriptures are read once. The deities protect those who make and hang prayer flags; wherever there are prayer flags, there is goodness and auspiciousness. I hope this trip to the Northwest brings more blessings of prayer flags to our world.
Third stop: April's Qinghai Lake can also be beautiful! I came last August but with bad weather, rainy and gray; couldn't see anything! Qinghai Lake—unique view from Heima River. This year we came again; no rain, but still gray. So we drove on, arriving at Heima River around 6 PM.
Qinghai Lake is huge, six times the size of West Lake, stretching to Heima River. Heima River is about 220 km west of Xining on the shore, the start of the Qinghai Lake ring road. From there, 70 km along the ring road reaches the famous Bird Island. This section is considered the most beautiful part of Qinghai Lake, showing different scenes in different seasons.
Though we didn't enter the main gate of Qinghai Lake, the lake at Heima River was especially vast and tranquil. Standing on the stony beach listening to the waves, it felt like only you existed. I remember you couldn't walk down at the main lake area, but here you can directly touch the water on the stony beach.
Most importantly, we found a large terrace by the lake at Heima River; at dusk, it's a perfect spot for backlit photos.
Photography tips at Heima River Qinghai Lake: Bring balloons. The lakeside colors are simple—blue and white—so we brought balloons, plus our clothes' colors, to make five colors. Isn't it rich and beautiful!
2. Best shooting time is sunset. At the seaside, you must see sunrise and sunset. While shooting, we saw a couple on a platform in the distance, the backlight stunningly beautiful. We ran about 500 meters to that platform and took several shots.
Fourth stop: Dachaidan Emerald Lake—After discovering this lesser-known mirror of the sky, you don't need to go to Chaka Salt Lake!
Come on, guess where this is? Chaka Salt Lake? Wrong ❌ Lugu Lake? Wrong ❌ Okay, reveal answer! It's Emerald Lake in Dachaidan, Qinghai!
We set out early, intending to go to the breathtaking mirror of the sky—Chaka Salt Lake. But unexpectedly, Chaka was under maintenance and not open! I almost cried in the car...
Luckily, our driver was smart and took us directly to Dachaidan Emerald Lake. The moment we got off the car, we were amazed. We discovered another niche mirror of the sky in Qinghai, indescribably beautiful!
It is said that this 6-square-kilometer "Emerald Lake" was originally the mining area of the former Dachaidan Chemical Plant salt lake mining team, called Ike Qaidam Lake, also Dachaidan Lake. Named Emerald Lake for its resemblance to jade. The lake is a salt lake, rich in boron, lithium, salt, potash, mirabilite, etc. These salt pools of varying sizes, shapes, and depths contain high-concentration brine called "bittern," formed from years of salt mining. Different mineral concentrations create colorful scenes.
As a photographer, I care most about whether the scenery is beautiful, whether there are crowds, and if it's photogenic! Look at the pictures; naturally beautiful Emerald Lake is stunning!
Since Dachaidan Emerald Lake is undeveloped with no clear signs, many tourists find it hard to locate, even most locals don't know. So this is definitely a top photo spot! Every snapshot has a clean background. Is this not the mirror of the sky you desired? Let me teach you how to shoot!
First, choose a large scene. Such a mirror of the sky gives a sense of openness and ethereality. It's perfect for a small figure in a big scene to interpret the picturesque beauty. Wear contrasting colors. I checked the salt lake's general color—whitish and blue—so yellow or red are best, making you pop out! Spin, jump, strike your biggest poses. In such scenes, I suggest exaggerated movements, like raising arms, taking big strides, etc.
Props are important! Balloons, scarves, or cameras. The most satisfying thing this trip was bringing balloons, haha! And the color choice was perfect!
Don't let the background be too monotonous; have an eye for beauty. Look at this picture:
This is another mineral site we found by the salt lake, almost unnoticed, but beautiful at first glance.
But we had to cross a large alkaline land; I ran and walked for about 5 minutes to reach that spot. When I saw the photo, it was totally worth it!
You can also cross the road to the other side of the salt lake for a different view.
Take photos from multiple angles. Behind us was Qaidam Mountain, shrouded in mist. Since the distance was unclear, I adjusted the focus, making the mountain the background and us the foreground.
Finally, a reminder: since it's not developed for tourism, I recommend hiring a car to visit Dachaidan Emerald Lake! Local drivers are familiar with the route; the road to get there is bumpy alkaline for a long stretch, unsuitable for large buses.
Fifth stop: Qinghai Ghost City + Water Yardang—If you don't dress brightly, how can you escape the Ghost City?
First, let's explain what Yardang is! Yardang landform is a typical wind-erosion landform. "Yardang" in Uyghur means "steep-walled hill." It generally refers to wind-eroded landforms in dry areas, formed by weathering, intermittent water erosion, and wind erosion, creating parallel wind-eroded mounds and depressions aligned with prevailing wind directions. We visited China's largest desert Yardang group—Nanbaxian Yardang—and China's only Water Yardang. Nanbaxian has a tragic story: in the 1950s, eight young female geologists from the south encountered a severe sandstorm during oil exploration and died here, hence the name "Eight Immortals from the South."
Yardang is also called Ghost City. The capricious strong winds passing through strange mounds create eerie sounds. Plus, the rocks are rich in iron, with strong magnetism, often making compasses malfunction, causing disorientation. Thus it's considered a ghost city or maze. Nanbaxian Yardang covers about 21,000 square kilometers, with an average altitude of 3,260 meters, the largest wind-eroded earth forest group discovered in China.
Wusute Yardang Geopark: We drove into no-man's land; for about an hour, there was no phone signal. We drove along the road, seeing vast wind-eroded mounds on both sides, not a single person. Finally, at a tire track, we turned into the Ghost City, stopped among the mounds. My impression of Yardang was dry mounds, giving a desolate, sharp feeling.
The moment we got out, the wind was incredibly strong, so fierce it took your breath away. Plus the cold April weather, the wind was bone-chilling! Can you see the cold and the wind in the photos? We snapped a few shots and quickly jumped back into the car! Today, A Jiu and I were risking our lives for photos! Then we drove another hour to Water Yardang. I have to spoil: Water Yardang is very beautiful!
Water Yardang is a sudden "ocean" emerging from the endless desert. Huge earth mounds stand in this ocean, the extremely dry Yardang combined with blue water, seemingly absurd yet harmonious.
According to our driver, many lakes in Qinghai are closed lakes, with no obvious inflow or outflow rivers. Although closed, they are very clear. I boldly guess these lakes are replenished by rain and snowmelt, and water dissipates by evaporation. People cannot walk to the lakeshore, let alone into the water. Because the wind at Water Yardang is also huge. Once, while concentrating on taking photos by the water, a gust almost blew me into the water!
Unlike Nanbaxian, the landform of Water Yardang is somewhat like desert, besides water and mounds, surrounded by sand. So Water Yardang is like a miracle in the Ghost City. The wise delight in water, the benevolent in mountains; here the water makes the Ghost City fresh, smart, and extraordinarily beautiful. The water area is very large; as you go deeper, you find more beautiful scenes.
So, how to take photos at Yardang Ghost City? 1. Wear bright colors! Observant friends may notice the tones are similar to desert, so I recommend red or bright colors that don't clash.
2. Multiple scene choices. Ghost City is huge, with mounds, water, and desert, so many options: waterside, hills, or a ruined area in the desert, instantly giving a cinematic feel.
3. How to shoot in windy places? Prepare props! Often the wind is very strong, messing up hair. Although disheveled beauty can be nice, strong winds make it hard to capture good shots. So suggest wearing a hat, either a cap or a hood from your clothes.
Finally, share some tips for this Yardang trip! On this Qinghai-Dunhuang loop, many spots are not fully developed with clear routes. I strongly recommend hiring a car in Qinghai! Like this Ghost City, we had no signal, and compasses could fail; imagine getting lost if self-driving—terrifying. So hiring a professional driver is more reliable! Our route today: from Dachaidan to Nanbaxian, then to Water Yardang, then back to Dachaidan for Dunhuang. There were no stops along the way, so bring your own food! We brought lots of instant noodles! But we had no hot water, so we just crushed them and ate them like chips!
Sixth stop: Dunhuang Mogao Caves—How to take stunning photos at Mogao! Before going, I'd seen similar caves but they couldn't replace Mogao. The Mogao Caves in Dunhuang, including the Western Thousand Buddha Caves, are one of China's four great grottoes and the world's largest, best-preserved Buddhist art treasure.
I want to mention that Mogao's fame drives Dunhuang's tourism. The city's infrastructure—hotels, roads, tourist centers—is relatively developed.
I used to think Mogao was just this nine-story building, with all secrets inside. But actually, Mogao is a complex of many caves. The nine-story pagoda is a symbol; it's just one cave. The visiting process: buy tickets, watch two movies (one is dome screen), then take a 20-minute bus to Mogao, then follow a guide to visit caves. You visit about 7-8 caves; no photography inside, so just listen and learn.
Mogao stretches about 1600 meters north-south, with five layers arranged vertically, like a beehive, spectacular. It is China's largest and richest classical cultural art treasure, a world-famous Buddhist art center. Every cave has its own murals and statues, differing only in preservation and accessibility.
While you can't take photos inside, the exterior is grand and perfect for photos. Here are tips: The advantage of off-season is few people. In such grand scenes, you can easily get movie-like shots by choosing the right angles. First, use a group of caves as background, shooting from low to high or left to right.
You can use people as foreground or background.
Second, use a single cave as background.
Third, use the multi-level structure to simulate an aerial view.
Fourth, capture the iconic nine-story building. As Mogao's symbol, a photo with it is a must. To get the whole building, you need a low angle. Control the subject's position and proportion in the frame.
Mogao was built in 366 AD. Legend has it that a monk named Lezun saw golden light with a thousand Buddhas, considered it holy land, and raised funds to dig the first cave. When news spread, merchants sponsored cave construction for safe journeys. Mogao's scale is impressive; photos only show a glimpse; the mysteries inside need personal exploration.
Seventh stop: Dunhuang Mingsha Mountain—Red dress is essential for the desert. I've known about Crescent Spring from textbooks since childhood—a clear spring in the vast desert, shaped like a crescent moon, magical and beautiful—but I didn't know the desert was called Mingsha Mountain.
Why is it called Mingsha? "Mingsha" means singing sand. It's a natural phenomenon where sand dunes produce a buzzing sound due to wind, vibration, and grain movement. In Dunhuang, the sand accumulates into mountain shapes, hence Mingsha Mountain.
The sand of Mingsha Mountain is composed of fine grains with five colors: red, yellow, blue, white, and black, crystal clear and spotless. The dunes have various shapes: crescent-like, pyramid-like, snake-like stretching to the horizon, or fish-scale-like arranged neatly.
At Mingsha Mountain, first, you must ride a camel. There are many activities: paragliding, camel riding, sand sliding. Since Mingsha is large, walking from the ticket gate to Crescent Spring is far; I suggest taking a camel to experience local culture without tiring yourself. Look at our camel family!
Camels are the ships of the desert. They have small heads, long curved necks, and tall bodies (adults about 1.85 m at shoulder, up to 2.15 m at hump; Bactrian camels can be 3 m long). The camels I saw were smaller, about 2 m. Their fur is usually brown.
This was my second time riding a camel. Unlike horse riding with gear, the camel kneels down so you can climb between the two humps. Hold tight when mounting. In Inner Mongolia, camel fur is soft, so you sink in. Here, they have saddles for stability, but when the camel stands up, the whole world sways, so hold on tight!
The ride takes about half an hour from the entrance to Crescent Spring. It's bumpy; you hold on tight for fear of falling. The desert road is rough, and Mingsha's steep dunes make it harder. The camel's large body makes every movement feel huge.
When the camel stops near Crescent Spring, just a short walk and you see it. I always thought Crescent Spring was a miracle in the desert, very impressive. But A Jiu, who had been before, coolly said: "It's very small!" I asked: "How small?" She said: "Just very small; you'll see." And indeed, when I saw it, I was a bit disappointed. It felt like a small park in the desert, with Crescent Spring as just a pond!
But even so, we can't deny its sacred status. Crescent Spring is among the best natural scenery in Dunhuang, known as a "desert wonder" and "the best scenery beyond the Great Wall."
The best view of Crescent Spring is from the hillside. You climb nearly a thousand steps to the viewing platform above.
The view from above is better, not only the scenery but the sand texture is smoother.
Here, you get the feeling of "a solitary smoke straight in the vast desert, a setting sun round over the long river." How to take stunning desert photos? 1. Choose good weather, time, and light; the best time is 5-6 PM. Dunhuang's sun sets late; from 4 PM to 8 PM is great shooting time. 2. Wear a red dress. Many sample photos show red long dresses in the desert. So red or ethnic maxi dress is essential!
3. Play with sand + dance + interact with camels. The desert is open, so best to do waving actions. We took many shots of spinning, playing with sand, running, and captured great ones. Also, interact with camels for photos!
We probably turned around dozens of times and took hundreds of shots to get satisfactory photos. My friend said I was a crazy woman! Haha, true. 4. Have a good photographer and post-processing. Patient photographer and good gear: this time we brought Canon 24-70/4 and telephoto 70-200/2.8, perfect for portraits and distant shots.
5. Watch the sunset! Don't miss the sunset at Mingsha Mountain! Even just a blush on the horizon, it's utterly beautiful and pleasing. Our teacher A Jiu kept shooting with the camera, then video, then phone, showing how beautiful it was! Crescent Spring under the sunset is especially beautiful and clear.
Then it's perfect for silhouettes. Here's a taste of our sunset creations!
6. Finally, use Lightroom to adjust tones. With this scene and these tips, we are all excellent travel photographers!
Eighth stop: Zhangye Danxia Geopark—Little Red Riding Hood's colorful Danxia journey! Long ago, I saw a photo on WeChat moments of a friend standing on red rocks, magnificent. I asked where, and he said Zhangye. I hadn't heard of Zhangye then; I only knew it had many red rocks, and I wanted to go there to take photos!
Sometimes persistence is magical. Loving travel, I unconsciously reached deep-seated desires, like this trip to Zhangye's Colorful Danxia. I thought about what clothes to wear. I asked the driver: what color is Colorful Danxia? He replied: "Streaky pork belly!"
Indeed, the layered texture looks like streaky pork, bright but not overly bold. Danxia landforms are formed by red sandstone weathering and water erosion, plus special geological structures, climate, and wind. Zhangye's Colorful Danxia is mainly composed of red conglomerate, sandstone, and mudstone, with distinct dry and semi-dry climate marks, known for cross-bedding, steep walls, vertical joints, and vivid colors.
Zhangye Danxia Geopark is huge; after buying tickets, you take a shuttle bus to visit four viewpoints with different colors and forms. Because we arrived late, we went straight to the best viewpoint recommended by the driver.
The first viewpoint is one of the highest in the park, offering a vast view of Danxia and distant red-roofed villages, like a European town.
Zhangye's Colorful Danxia is one of China's largest and best-developed Danxia landforms, the most diverse in shape, a typical representative of colorful Danxia and lattice palace-style Danxia. In 2015, it was selected as one of the world's 25 dreamy travel destinations by many well-known websites. No wonder movies like "The Sun Also Rises" (Jiang Wen), "A Simple Noodle Story" (Zhang Yimou), and "Detective Di Renjie (Season 3)" filmed here.
Finally, dressing tips for Zhangye "streaky pork": 1. White as main color is safe. Since it's colorful Danxia, I chose white. I love red and yellow, but to avoid clash, white is best. 2. Little Red Riding Hood accessory. I picked a red hat to complement the outfit. I bought it earlier but never used; now was the chance. It adds playfulness to the black-and-white outfit. With the even brighter red, did it steal the Danxia's thunder? 3. Look for all scenes to pose. I imagined a vast open Danxia where I could jump into the picture, but actually you can only view from platforms. So use the Danxia scenery as background.
Ninth stop: The magnificent Qinghai—the most beautiful scenery is always on the road. Many people dream of a "road trip" like in American movies, driving through a highway with family and friends, stopping along the way. Many travel from destination to destination but never notice the scenery in between. Actually, the best scenery is on the road. This 3000 km trip took us through vast deserts, ancient villages, and snowy mountains, with beauty beyond recording.
I love taking photos. Once, when my phone died, I felt upset about missing photo opportunities. My companion patted my chest and said, "The best scenery is appreciated with the heart and kept in memory." So I tried to appreciate and remember the beautiful roadside scenery. Now let me share some of the most beautiful roadside views in Qinghai! Route 109, sign 2222. This sign is on the way to Chaka, on Route 109 at kilometer 2222. Our driver said from this point to Beijing is 2222 km. Very meaningful.
When we arrived, people were queuing to take photos with 2222. Route 109 itself is also very beautiful! But be careful: cars drive fast, so keep safe while shooting.
Route 66: In Qinghai, there is a section that closely matches the landscape and location of America's Route 66, satisfying your expectations.
Comparing China's 109 National Highway with US Route 66, because they are at the same latitude (30°-40°N), have similar highway lengths (over 3900 km), the same diagonal shape, and pass through similar grassland, canyon, snow mountain, desert, lake, and mother river sections.
Also, both start from bustling eastern centers through remote western wilderness, allowing travel through desert, mountains, farms, towns, ruins, fast-food restaurants, gas stations, and motels. People here once cherished national dreams and enjoyed natural scenery. Just as we love US Route 66, Westerners have a legendary yearning for China's 109 leading to Tibet.
The most beautiful scenery is on the road. This was a spot where we asked the driver to stop and kept shooting.
Actually, it was just a rough muddy country road to Chaka Salt Lake. But its simplicity and naturalness attracted us. Country folk probably wouldn't understand our urban aesthetic, haha!
I must say, this set of photos is one of my favorites! The evening light was just right; standing with these cattle and donkeys felt like a harmonious fusion with nature, don't you think?
Roadside photography tips: (1) Stand by the road, lean forward, bow your head slightly, following the road direction. Common and elegant. (2) Sit cross-legged on the double yellow line in the middle of the road, look up at the sky, wave your hands, free play. (3) Stand in the middle of the road, back to the camera, smile back. (4) Jump or run on the road. (5) Use roadside references like signs or crosswalks.
Very happy. In "The Little Prince," there's a paragraph: "If you tell an adult, 'I saw a beautiful pink brick house, with geraniums on the windows and doves on the roof,' they can't imagine it. But if you say, 'I saw a house worth a hundred thousand francs,' they'll exclaim, 'What a beautiful house!'" Yes, our beautiful Northwest is like that pink brick house. Lately, I hear friends say: why not spend the same money on Southeast Asia? Sandy beaches and sunshine! We tend to measure everything by price, chasing the "expensive" and distant, forgetting that forgotten nearby scenery can also be beautiful and poetic. Okay, pack your bags and head to the Northwest to realize the poetry and distance you yearn for!
Finally, if you want to see more of our world travels, please keep following! Love you all, mwah!
