Famous for Mogao Caves, Yearning for Crescent Moon Spring: June 20-26, 2020 – A 7-Day Trip to Dunhuang and Xi'an
The year 2020 was about to be half over before we knew it. The sudden pandemic had made me prepare several alternative travel plans over these six months, yet none were put into action. Watching the epidemic gradually improve, but knowing that the domestic season of rains and typhoons was about to start, I was torn between waiting and acting. After much deliberation, I still hoped to complete one trip.
Every day I kept an eye on the pandemic updates as well as the weather. With my personality of liking to prepare everything in advance, I had never experienced not knowing where to go until two days before departure. In the end, due to heavy rain warnings in the south, I changed my plan to Guizhou and at the last moment chose the dry weather of the northwest.
Typically, to travel the northwest, people fly to Xining and then drive or charter a car for the full Northwest Loop. However, I had limited time this time, so I only picked one stop on the loop: Dunhuang. Besides wanting to see the murals of the flying apsaras in person, I was mainly attracted by a photo of a crescent-shaped desert oasis I had once seen, instantly captivated by a scene I had never encountered. At that moment, Dunhuang was added to my list of desired destinations.
Since there were no direct flights from Shanghai to Dunhuang, I had to transfer through Lanzhou or Xi'an. At 10 a.m., we began this not-so-short migration.
Tips: During this special period, it is important to note:
① Before departure, be sure to consult the hotel about the local pandemic policies to ensure you can check in across provinces and enter scenic spots (for example, most scenic spots in Xinjiang currently do not accept tourists from outside Xinjiang).
② Whether entering or exiting airports, scenic spots, hotels, or other public places, always wear a mask (bring a few extra masks in case you lose one, as without a mask you won't be able to enter anywhere).
③ Most important! Most important! Most important! Everyone traveling together must have their own mobile phone number! Why is this important? Because wherever you go, you need to scan a code to show a green health code. Each province has its own mini-program, and while the operation is similar, there are key differences. For example, in Shanghai and Gansu, you only need to enter your ID number to generate a health code, even if only one phone is used, you can generate codes for multiple people, though it's a bit troublesome. But in Xi'an, the health code requires a mobile phone number to register, and one number can only register one person. When checking into hotels in Gansu, in addition to showing the health code, you also need to scan a code that shows where the phone number has been, so it's very important for everyone to have a mobile number.
With the above three points, as long as you are not from a medium- or high-risk area or deliberately choose to visit such areas, avoid crowds, follow local policies, and fill in information truthfully, it is still possible to go out and get some fresh air during this unusual period to change your mood.
As the colors of the earth gradually turned yellow and barren, we finally arrived at Dunhuang Airport at 4 p.m. After taking temperature, scanning codes, filling in information, and verifying health codes and IDs, we officially set foot on Dunhuang soil. Although I was quite worried about the pandemic before departure, especially after the sudden outbreak in the capital, I felt much more at ease after seeing how strict the pandemic prevention and control were along the way.
For accommodation, we chose the Bohui Wenhua Hotel, located in the center of Dunhuang, next to Shazhou Market. The intersection has a statue of the Flying Apsara playing the pipa, so we had no worries about food and drink day or night. The distances to the airport, Mogao Caves, and Mingsha Mountain were all similar, about a 20-minute drive. Across the hotel, there is a bus stop for Mingsha Mountain, but we took taxis to these places.
Tips: Regarding Dunhuang taxis, some people say drivers don't use the meter and you negotiate the price. But in practice, the meter is used, located near the gear shift. There is no DiDi app locally, so drivers still wait on the road for passengers or line up at scenic spots. Before we got out of the taxi, the driver gave us his business card, suggesting we call him for future rides, which was better than waiting blindly. The scenic spots in the city are not far, and generally, he could arrive at your pickup point within 10 minutes. If the driver seems honest, sticking with one taxi is a good choice. (Our taxi fares: Shazhou Market - Mogao Caves 22 yuan; Mogao Caves - Mingsha Mountain 35 yuan; Mingsha Mountain - Shazhou Market 15 yuan; Shazhou Night Market - Airport 30 yuan)
Due to the pandemic, hotel prices throughout the trip were not expensive, and our room was upgraded. After putting down our luggage and resting a bit, we thought it was already five or six o'clock and late, but we soon realized there was at least a two-hour time difference, and this period had the longest daylight of the year. Sunset was after 9 p.m., and it got dark after 10 p.m. Because of the heat, the driver told us that locals work in the morning, rest in the afternoon, and resume work at five or six in the evening. So going out at five or six in the evening was not late at all, and most market stalls were just setting up. We took a brief walk but found nothing particularly attractive. Almost all stalls sold dried fruits, with a uniform price sign above each stall, showing a conscious effort to control prices, which was very good.
After a quick tour, we prepared to have our first meal in Dunhuang. Non-locals rely on review platforms to avoid bad choices, which might not be the authentic local taste but at least is recognized by the public.
This restaurant in the city center, Jingyuan Galiu Delicious Lamb, was very popular during meal times. When we arrived, it was almost full, and by the time we finished, people were already waiting in line. The staff were very polite and made us feel comfortable. We saw on the wall photos that many celebrities had also eaten here. We ordered hand-grabbed lamb ribs; the lamb had little gamey flavor, lightly salted and fresh when eaten directly, even more fragrant when dipped in chili powder. The chili powder here was especially good, not too spicy but very aromatic. The stir-fried lamb heart and liver were particularly tender, but a bit too spicy for us. Sand onion is a local specialty; it tastes like a combination of scallion, leek, and chives, quite good and worth trying. Apricot peel water was similar to sour plum juice, perfect for cooling down and relieving greasiness on a hot day.
Back at the hotel, I took a photo out the window. In the distance, it should be Mingsha Mountain. It was already 9 p.m.
In the morning, we first went to the nearby Xia Jia He Zhi for breakfast. It tasted a bit like vermicelli soup, a good breakfast.
The main itinerary for today was the Mogao Caves. Tickets might not be as tight now, but to be safe, it's better to buy tickets online as early as possible. Entry is by time slot, with 3,000 tickets per day. We chose 9:15 a.m. and needed to arrive at the Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Center half an hour early to exchange tickets. First, check health codes, go through security, and those with luggage can store it.
After entering, we first watched two introductory films to get a general understanding of Mogao Caves.
Then we took the scenic area bus to the Mogao Caves. There is actually some distance from the Digital Center to the caves. The wind was strong today, sand blowing into eyes, and a layer of sand quickly covered our phones, truly feeling the essence of the northwest. But because of the wind and no sun, it wasn't hot, and the temperature was cool.
Mogao Caves tickets are divided into Category A and B, with different queues. The difference lies in the number of caves one can visit. Groups are formed, each with a guide who leads the tour and explains. Because the paintings and Buddha statues in the caves are extremely precious and fragile, sensitive to light and humidity, photography is prohibited inside. For photos of the caves, there is a QR code at the entrance to view introductions and pictures. The caves are very dark, relying solely on the guide's flashlight to point and explain. It was still very impressive. Looking at the mottled, oxidized, and faded murals on the walls, and the countless caves, I really don't know what words to use to describe my amazement. Although we are doing our best to protect them, the erosion of time is irreversible. We will see less and less of all this. I am glad I came now, but I also feel I should not have come to disturb. Mogao Caves now have an AR online tour function; those interested can check it out.
After visiting the caves, we could freely explore, take photos outside with the caves, or visit the nearby exhibition halls, and finally take the bus back to the Digital Center. (PS: There is also a large evening performance near the Digital Center, not cheap, but those interested can go.)
We didn't visit all the exhibition halls because the wind and sand became very strong and started to mix with light rain. At that moment, I wished I had brought dust goggles instead of sunglasses, and a hat with a strap so it wouldn't blow away.
Back at the Digital Center, we took a taxi to the Luye You Sha Inn near Mingsha Mountain. Since tickets for Mingsha Mountain are valid for three days, staying near the scenic spot made it convenient to enter again the next day, either to watch sunrise or sunset.
The road where the inn was located lay between Mingsha Mountain and Yueyaquan Town, lined with inns. Our inn was relatively new, with a stylish decoration. However, unless you drive there, if I had to choose again, I would pick an inn closer to the intersection. Ours was too far inside, and when we were tired from playing, it felt really far to walk back.
When we entered the inn at noon, the ground was covered with sand and fallen leaves. The inn lady said, "It's not usually this dirty; there was a sandstorm today." We said we came from Mogao Caves and had already experienced it. Also, we were told that Mingsha Mountain was closed, so we decided to follow the locals and rest in the inn during the midday heat, then go to Yueyaquan Town around 4 p.m.
The town felt very artificial, clearly built in imitation local architectural style for tourists. It was not big; we could finish walking in less than half an hour. Apart from a row of restaurants open and a few inns, all other open-air stalls were empty, making the whole town feel desolate.
However, we were attracted by the aroma coming from an old man's chili powder shop. We bought some chili powder to make chili oil at home. It was really fragrant and not too spicy.
For dinner, we ate at Laotongguan Roujiamo (Yueyaquan Town branch). Although I don't particularly like noodles, this roujiamo was much better than what I had in Shanghai, so much so that I didn't arrange to eat roujiamo in Xi'an because I felt this one was already delicious enough. Judging by the name, it should be a chain.
After dinner, afraid that Mingsha Mountain might still be closed, we called to ask. By 6 p.m., the wind had died down, the sun was out, so we went to Mingsha Mountain.
Entering the scenic area, we felt a bit disoriented. All we could see was sand, not knowing where the path was. I initially thought the mountain one climbs by camel is the one overlooking Crescent Moon Spring. Actually, no. Camel riding goes to the left side of the scenic area toward East Mountain. Crescent Moon Spring is to the right, and the sand dune directly facing it requires climbing on foot to overlook the spring. In the middle of the scenic area, there is a low sand slope, perfect for taking photos with S-shaped dunes.
Climbing the sand dune required some physical effort and courage. There was only one soft ladder, and on the last stretch, there was no ladder at all. It felt like taking three steps and sliding back one. As a first-time sand dune climber, I still had some fear, feeling that the ground wasn't solid, afraid of slipping and falling flat on my face.
Upon reaching the top, all I could see were sand dunes beyond.
Many people sat on the sand dunes waiting for sunset, but the sunset here was really late. Since my dad and I climbed up, we worried my mom waiting below might be anxious, so we started descending after the sun basically set, before it got completely dark.
Going down was much easier than going up, except for the fear of falling down the slope.
Tips: Before leaving the scenic area, if you plan to return the next day, remember to scan your face at the machine at the exit to record.
Today, the original plan was to enter the scenic area at 5 a.m. to watch the sunrise, but after waiting for sunset and returning to the inn late, we couldn't get up early. Also, the thought of climbing the sand dune again in the dark was too much. So we changed to a relaxed plan: go after dawn to ride camels and take photos.
Unfortunately, we ended up not riding. After buying tickets, we were split into different groups to fill vacancies. Our protest was useless, so we refunded the tickets directly. Camel riding costs 100 yuan per person, about 40 minutes. At the top, a scenic area photographer takes pictures, which can be bought near the entrance. I'm not sure if we could take digital photos ourselves.
Since we didn't ride, we had time to take photos while there were fewer tourists in the morning.
Mingsha Mountain really became one of my favorite places on this trip.
Leaving Mingsha Mountain, we took a taxi back to Shazhou Market.
I pulled out another restaurant I had saved, Yige Huyang Menbing, for lunch. I don't understand why they call it 'menbing' when it's actually belt noodles. But it was delicious: plenty of meat, chewy noodles, rich flavor. Plus other dishes, we ate too much. In the evening, we wanted to eat barbecue but weren't hungry, so we didn't go out.
Does it feel like we did nothing yesterday? That's entirely to conserve energy for today. Today's west route departs at 8 a.m. and won't return to the hotel until midnight.
Tips: Regarding west route transportation, due to many attractions and long distances, the options are charter car, renting and driving, or joining a group tour. Originally, I planned to drive. But considering relaxation, coverage, and cost, we finally chose to book a local day tour online: 76 yuan per person, with lunch and attraction tickets not included.
Why did we, who prefer independent travel, choose to join a group? Because it's a bit different here. Over 160 kilometers of road, driving back and forth on the same day would be tiring. Given my stamina, I would definitely cut some attractions to ensure returning before dark. But the group tour visits all attractions, and tickets are optional; those not interested can wait on the bus. My main concern about freedom and rushing through attractions was not too big an issue. Because some attractions along the way are quite small, and if one is not particularly interested in history, they are just a quick glance. For the key attractions, once inside, we take the scenic bus, so time is still fixed. Thus, joining a group is not much different from independent travel.
First stop, Dunhuang Film and Television Ancient City. It's a small film set where many dramas and variety shows were filmed, but it's quite crudely built. If driving and pressed for time, I think it's skippable.
Second stop, West Thousand Buddha Caves. Most people might have already visited Mogao Caves, so many skipped this stop. Only our family and another couple went in. During the pandemic, only three caves were open. The visiting mode was basically the same as Mogao: no photography inside, guided by a narrator. The caves here are not as well protected as Mogao.
Third stop, Yangguan Pass. Upon entering the scenic area, it's recommended to buy an electric cart ticket; otherwise, walking in the heat wastes time and is hot. These are historical sites, and just looking doesn't reveal much. After a short wait, a guide leads a group of visitors with some explanation, all the way to the electric cart boarding point.
A small wild jujube picked up from the ground. Gritty, sweet, and sour taste. It was my first encounter, just found it interesting, but I don't know how it's usually eaten.
After leaving Yangguan, the driver took us to a nearby farmhouse restaurant for lunch. Each ordered their own dishes. The same menbing tasted much worse than yesterday's and was more expensive. Those with food requirements might bring their own snacks; this place is just for filling the stomach.
Fourth stop, Yumen Pass. It's the only way to Yadan Devil City. The ticket gate is right on the road, so whether you go or not, you have to pay a toll. It consists of Yumen Pass, Han Great Wall, and Hecang Fort, requiring a scenic bus ticket to visit each stop.
Fifth stop, Yadan Devil City. This was the most anticipated part of today's itinerary. The advantage of joining the group tour is the driver calculates the time to arrive at the scenic area around 7 p.m., so we take the scenic bus at 7:40, and after visiting, we wait for sunset at the last stop.
At the West Sea Fleet attraction, which is also the scenic bus's final stop where everyone waits for sunset, I really regretted not bringing my drone. Because Mogao Caves and Mingsha Mountain do not allow drones, and I heard Yadan Devil City doesn't either. But without a drone, the West Sea Fleet can't truly convey its awe.
We left the scenic area at 10 p.m. and drove for 2.5 hours back to our respective hotels. The weather was great today. On the way, the driver stopped in an uninhabited area to let everyone get out and look at the starry sky. It was even more dense and close than what I saw at Lugu Lake. For the first time, I clearly recognized the Big Dipper.
We returned to the hotel around 12:30 a.m. and found the apricot peel water the hotel had given us, which felt very warm.
To return to Shanghai, today we flew from Dunhuang to Xi'an first. Although we could have slept in, we didn't wake up particularly late.
We went to the nearby supermarket, and for lunch, we made up for the barbecue we missed earlier because we were too full. The taste was good, but since it mainly serves dinner and late-night customers, lunch options were limited.
On the way to Xi'an, I don't know where we flew over, but we saw mountains still capped with snow.
Arriving at Xi'an Xianyang Airport (why is Xi'an's airport in Xianyang? Curious people can Baidu), taking a taxi to the city center, we could already feel being back in the city with its common problem – traffic jams.
For accommodation, we chose the Ibis Styles Hotel, which I highly recommend. Left exit leads to the Bell Tower, right exit to the Drum Tower. The location is excellent, and the hotel environment is very nice.
For dinner, we walked to Jiangcheng Xiaoguan Shaanxi Mother's Kitchen · Han Tang Market. A group meal set was so large we couldn't finish. Searching, it seems the signature dishes of several popular restaurants are similar. Beggar's chicken (hulu chicken) is actually fried chicken; I didn't find it particularly amazing, but the chili powder here is fragrant, so dipping made it taste good. Osmanthus cold rice cake was quite tasty, and the pickled fish was also good.
The Bell Tower is in the center of a roundabout, currently under renovation, wrapped tightly, so its true appearance can't be seen.
Today was a one-day tour of the Terracotta Warriors and Huaqing Palace. Since taking public transportation seemed very inconvenient, we joined a local group tour with direct bus. Again, tickets not included, includes round-trip transportation, lunch, and Huaqing Palace guide. The product design was good, but I have to complain about the guide, who was too inexperienced, not considering everyone's walking pace, just rushing ahead, then checking who was left behind, making the elderly particularly nervous.
For this itinerary, if you can manage transportation yourself, I think independent travel would be more comfortable. At Huaqing Palace, we only gave a cursory look at a few pools and paid extra for a show. There were many group tourists around, no time to stop and take photos. Now I can't remember much except following the guide, not even the layout of Huaqing Palace. Just the regular group tour operation: hurry through highlights, cut attractions, add non-shopping paid items.
The guide made a joke, which was actually a preemptive warning: "In the morning, see five small pits (the five pools of Huaqing Palace); in the afternoon, see three big pits (the three pits of Terracotta Warriors); go home and feel that the Xi'an guide is a big pit." Xi'an is a city full of stories, 70% listening, 30% seeing. So just by looking, there are no grand natural sceneries; one can only develop from culture. There are many performances, and we had to pick one to see.
Not that the performance was bad. The one we saw, Xi'an Incident, had good effects. But Xi'an's attraction tickets are not cheap, and adding performances adds up. In summary, traveling Xi'an is not a money-saving place.
Lunch was included in the group fee, still mainly for filling the stomach.
In the afternoon, before entering the Terracotta Warriors, we paid to watch a 3D documentary. Currently, guides cannot enter the Terracotta Warriors area, so it's purely visual, and basically, one can't understand much. It's a case of experts seeing the professional aspect, while laymen just watch the spectacle.
Pit No. 1 is the most spectacular; pits 2 and 3 are almost empty. Watching the documentary was beneficial, at least learning that the Terracotta Warriors were not originally this earthy color; the colored coating faded over time due to erosion. Archaeologists once excavated colored warriors, but due to limited conservation technology, the colors soon peeled off, turning them the earthy color. Until we have the ability to protect these artifacts, the mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang will not be further excavated.
The return trip was really congested.
We had dinner at Zui Chang'an, which was also busy. The signature dishes of several popular restaurants were similar, but I thought yesterday's dinner tasted better.
After dinner, we returned near the hotel. The Drum Tower looked beautiful when lit up. The driver told us that the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Tang Paradise are best visited at night, as they look better with lights.
We walked into the Muslim Quarter behind the Drum Tower. Wow, it was packed with people, as if there were no pandemic.
In Xi'an, I hadn't had a formal noodle meal yet, so before leaving, I had to arrange one. We found Lao Li's Biangbiang Noodles in a nearby alley. The shop was very small, seemingly mainly serving tourists. Maybe expectations were too high; it wasn't particularly amazing. I still preferred the menbing in Dunhuang.
We had to fly back to Shanghai in the evening, so we just wandered around the nearby area. It was the first time in seven days that we encountered light rain and cloudy weather.
Previously, when I visited Nanjing, I learned that Xi'an City Wall is the largest and best-preserved ancient city wall in China. But upon stepping onto the wall, it didn't give me the historical feeling that Nanjing's wall did. The bricks on both sides and on the ground looked like modern renovations, mostly from 1984. Perhaps because the bricks are modern, there is a special activity on the wall: bicycle riding, and also sightseeing trams.
There was also a performance on the city wall, and the square was filled with stage setups. Honestly, I didn't really like this feeling, as it seemed like people were commercializing history.
Before going to the airport, we forced ourselves to have an early dinner, hitting the last restaurant on my saved list, Hutu Ji.
Seven days passed in a flash. Before departure, my mom was very worried about this trip, afraid we would be quarantined and unable to return. But she really overthought it. Sitting at home watching the news made us more and more scared, but once we actually went out, we truly realized how well our country handled this pandemic! I hope the pandemic ends soon!
Table of Contents:
1. Preface
2. Day 1: Shanghai - Dunhuang
3. Day 2: Mogao Caves & Mingsha Mountain
4. Day 3: Mingsha Mountain
5. Day 4: Dunhuang West Route (Dunhuang Film and Television Ancient City & West Thousand Buddha Caves & Yangguan Pass & Yumen Pass & Yadan Devil City)
6. Day 5: Dunhuang - Xi'an
7. Day 6: Huaqing Palace & Terracotta Warriors
8. Day 7: Xi'an - Shanghai
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