Let's Elope to Dunhuang and Explore It
After finishing the first half of the year, I planned to go 'wandering' for a few days during the holiday. I chose the Northwest loop route. This article focuses on Dunhuang, a city that enchanted me. Actually, in my impression, a city surrounded by desert should be dry and dusty, but unexpectedly, Dunhuang was so quiet, comfortable, and clean. Under the shelter of the poplar forests, there was no sense of a Northwest city at all; it felt more like entering a small southern town. The climate was very pleasant, combining the humidity of the south and the dryness of the north. Dunhuang, an important town on the ancient Silk Road, gave me enough surprises. It was as if I saw a graceful figure amidst the ruggedness of the Northwest. That is Dunhuang, like a flying apsara draped in silk embroidery, waiting on the ancient Silk Road, washing away the fatigue and restlessness of travelers from ancient times to the present. No words can fully describe the astonishment Dunhuang gave me.
If Dunhuang had already given me a huge surprise, then Shazhou Night Market was another gift from Dunhuang. I thought Shazhou Night Market would be similar to other snack streets in the Northwest, but unexpectedly, it gave me a different feeling. I truly marveled that in the Northwest, there could be such a night market, perfectly combining tranquility and ruggedness. The tranquility lies in its environment, while the ruggedness lies in its cuisine. It is also a gathering place for Dunhuang's artistic youth. I like places like this, whether they are genuinely artistic or pseudo-artistic. Here, a wood carving, a gourd, a song, a piece of meat, a glass of wine, a lifetime of friendship – we all become rugged and tranquil artistic youths, intoxicated by such a night.
The next day we went to the Mogao Caves and Crescent Moon Spring. My desire to see the Mogao Caves originated from a book I read in high school, "The Cultural Journey" by Yu Qiuyu. Among its most famous chapters is "The Taoist Pagoda," which was selected into textbooks. In Mr. Yu's writings, Priest Wang was the culprit of Dunhuang culture. But when I entered the thousand-year-old Mogao, turned off my camera, and carefully appreciated the light, shadow, and colors, learning about the dedication of Fan Jinshi and Li Qiqiong to Dunhuang, and as I walked past that Taoist pagoda, I had a different feeling. Like Priest Wang, my eyes were full of confusion, and I began to question Mr. Yu Qiuyu, whom I had always admired. In fact, Priest Wang was also a guardian of the thousand-year-old Mogao. The money he earned from selling cultural relics was not kept for himself but was entirely used to repair the caves. Considering China's national situation at that time, who should have paid for Dunhuang's culture? It was not Priest Wang, but the corrupt and incompetent Qing government. Perhaps Priest Wang respected this life in his own way—at least the caves were not buried by shifting sands due to lack of funds, and remained visible to the world today. For figures like Adou or Priest Wang, whether they are wise like fools or foolish like wise men, we are not in their position, nor do we have the right to judge a history we have not experienced. Everything depends on our perspective.
Afterwards, we visited Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring. Among the eight scenic spots of Dunhuang, Crescent Moon Spring is one of them. People describe Crescent Moon Spring as a mirror of heaven, an eye of the desert, a paradise for stars to bathe. Every time the sun sets, colorful auspicious clouds reflect on the mirror-like Crescent Moon Spring, creating such a dreamy scene. Whenever camel bells jingle along the Silk Road, passing by my ears, and I watch the departing travelers disappear into the vast desert, I feel as if I have been transported back a thousand years, witnessing the thousand-year symbiosis of the sand mountain and the crescent spring.
In the evening, I went to watch a performance called "Dunhuang Grand Ceremony." Initially, I didn't know the performance was outdoors. When I entered the venue, I was puzzled for a while. There was a little rain that day, and I was wondering how the show would go on. The staff handed out raincoats. I asked them if the show would continue even if it rained heavily. They said yes, and that rain in Dunhuang doesn't last long, haha. Fortunately, the rain stopped after a while. I felt that watching the performance in the rain actually had a unique charm. Watching the desolate desert, with raindrops pattering and soaking the desert oasis, it felt really great. You can also come and see this performance if you visit.
The Dunhuang trip ends here. It's time to set off for the next stop. Actually, life is like this: no matter how much you linger and don't want to leave, you still have to move on to the next journey. So pack up your soul and come elope with me to the next journey and take a look.
