A Thrilling Dream in the Great Northwest
A must-visit journey to the vast northwest. Who says desolation isn't beautiful? The essence of life is vicissitude, and the ultimate form of nature is desolation. Whether facing the solemn snowy mountains or standing by the shimmering Qinghai Lake where water and sky merge, everything here has faith. The wind rises fiercely, piercing straight into the heart, layer upon layer, unceasing, as though it were a connection between the divine and this world.
Every time I travel through Tibetan regions, I hear people say: We hang prayer flags because they are imprinted with scriptures. Each time the wind blows a flag, it represents our recitation of the scriptures, and this is also our method of eliminating karma. The plateau light is as dazzling as diamonds, piercing through the prayer flags and warming this land. Listen—could it be that spirits truly protect this sacred land?
The grand lanterns of the ancient Western Regions, the bustling trade of the Hexi Corridor, the clash of cavalry on the desert grassland—all have become legendary tales with the passage of history. The sound of the Qiang flute at Yumen Pass has faded; the flying celestial dances at Mogao Caves have ceased. In the great northwest, I had an exhilarating dream.
Before my trip, I also checked many travel guides about whether to buy anti-altitude sickness medicine like Rhodiola rosea. In the end, I bought some but didn’t take it on time before leaving. Here I’ll only share my own experience. Since we rented a car and stayed inside most of the time, none of us felt much on the road. However, at scenic spots, especially at higher altitudes like Riyue Mountain, while climbing stairs or walking uphill, we felt some chest tightness, dizziness, and slight difficulty breathing. After reaching the top and resting, we felt much better. The following are methods I found online and tips from the medicine customer service for dealing with altitude sickness—just for reference.
【Precautions for Overcoming Altitude Sickness】
- Altitude sickness usually appears 4–6 hours after arrival. If a tourist arrives at Xining around noon, for example, the reaction typically occurs from evening to the next morning. At that time, mild symptoms may appear, and the body will gradually adapt and improve. Therefore, most tourists experience altitude sickness on the first night and the second day.
- If you have difficulty breathing, my personal tip is to inhale deeply and exhale shallowly. After adjusting your breathing a few times, you will adapt to the high altitude. In high-altitude areas, avoid rapid movements; move slowly to give your body time to adjust. Also ensure sufficient sleep.
- Mentally: Keep a calm and positive attitude, be optimistic, take deep breaths often, and dispel fear. Most people will gradually adapt if they take Rhodiola rosea and oxygen tablets on time and in the proper dosage.
- Physically: Get plenty of rest, eat on schedule, and continue taking Rhodiola rosea and oxygen tablets. If severe altitude sickness occurs—such as edema, pulmonary edema, or severe cold—seek medical attention immediately.
- Glucose primarily serves to quickly replenish energy and can also help alleviate headache symptoms caused by altitude sickness. Add it to hot water and drink when hydrating. Use 10g–50g each time, adjusted to personal taste.
【Things to Avoid】
- Avoid using oxygen at the slightest reaction. While oxygen can temporarily relieve symptoms, the symptoms will return after stopping. Try to rely on your own adaptation and avoid dependence.
- Reduce activity; move gently. Do not walk quickly, let alone run. Avoid physical labor (e.g., carrying heavy luggage). Go up and down stairs slowly. Limit bathing to avoid catching a cold and exerting yourself.
- We summarized a “four-word mantra” for dealing with altitude sickness: Walk softly, never drink alcohol, sleep whenever possible, and talk as little as possible.
- Also, when passing high mountain passes or scenic overlooks in open areas, wear a hat and scarf; never let the wind blow on your head or neck, as it can easily trigger severe headaches, vomiting, etc.
3. Two days before entering the high-altitude area and during your stay, ensure adequate sleep, keep warm to avoid colds, don’t stay up late, and be careful not to overeat! During your stay, appropriately increase intake of warm boiled water—recommended about 2–3 liters per day. Add glucose to warm water or Red Bull, drink more water, eat fruits and chocolate—this helps quickly replenish energy and alleviate altitude sickness symptoms. Avoid stimulating drinks like green tea or coffee in the evening to prevent insomnia. If you have insomnia, take 3–4 oxygen tablets half an hour before bed, and leave a small gap in the window for air circulation (provided the room is warm). Also, sleeping on your side helps with falling asleep.
【Other Notes】
- It’s best to book hotels, rental cars, flights, and train tickets a month in advance online to get lower prices and ensure availability.
- Mogao Caves tickets must also be booked in advance on the official website, otherwise you may have to queue for a long time for emergency tickets—and they may not be available.
- Respect local beliefs and customs.
Day 1: Xining — Kumbum Monastery — Laji Mountain — Riyue Mountain — Daotang River — Qinghai Lake — Heima River
Day 2: Heima River — Caka Salt Lake — Emerald Lake — Dachaidan
Day 3: Dachaidan — Yadan Devil City — Aksai Desert Town — Yumen Pass — Dunhuang
Day 4: Mogao Caves — Singing Sand Dunes & Crescent Moon Spring — Dunhuang
Day 5: Dunhuang — Jiayuguan Great Wall — Rainbow Danxia — Zhangye
Day 6: Zhangye — Biandukou — Zhu'er Mountain
Day 7: Zhu'er Mountain — Qilian Prairie — Menyuan — Xining
Here I only talk about our personal feelings. These suggestions may touch some businesses’ interests, but as a tourist, I still think it’s necessary to remind everyone of some pitfalls:
① Some obviously misleading travelogues. Before the trip, I have the habit of doing detailed research. Recently, I’ve noticed some very strange travelogues that excessively praise a certain driver. For example: “The driver was very nice and took us to avoid tickets”; “The driver took care of us like a boyfriend”; “The driver helped us save a lot of money.” Come on—let’s not mention whether the driver is operating illegally. Isn’t it obvious that these are advertisements? When you click into the account details, it’s shocking—one account has written many articles about the northwest, with different genders and ages. Don’t they get tired of writing?
② Price. China has a saying: “Cheap goods are no good.” In the northwest, car rental prices vary wildly, from 400 to 1200 per day. Some extremely low prices are clearly playing word games. For example, the car fee is 400, but the driver’s accommodation, meals (especially tricky), tolls, and fuel are not included. A few even charge overtime fees. There are many other small pitfalls I won’t elaborate here. After experiencing all kinds of troubles, we chose to rent a car and drive ourselves this time. Driving yourself is indeed more tiring (mainly because the northwest is really vast), but the feeling of speeding through uninhabited areas is simply amazing. Without further ado, let’s start the main text.
My Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop trip began in Xining, starting with Kumbum Monastery. We made thorough preparations for this trip. The scenery and culture gave us a general understanding of the northwest. Especially Kumbum Monastery—starting the northwest journey here felt like a preliminary taste of northwest culture. Kumbum Monastery is a landmark attraction in Xining. As a Gelug sect (Yellow Hat) site of Tibetan Buddhism, built in honor of Master Tsongkhapa, it carries the history of the Gelug sect’s development. It is solemn and majestic, filled with faith everywhere.
Kumbum Monastery, also known as the Golden Tile Monastery or Pagoda Monastery, means in Tibetan “Gumbum Champa Ling,” which translates to “Maitreya Temple of One Hundred Thousand Lion-Roaring Buddha Images.” Covering over 600 mu (about 40 hectares), it contains more than 1,000 temple buildings and over 4,500 halls and monks’ quarters. Located in the Lotus Mountain, the monastery complex is built along the mountain slopes like the stamen of an eight-petal lotus, decorating the mountain with solemn beauty. Inside, there are many ancient trees and pagodas, with strong Tibetan Buddhist elements.
Looking at Kumbum Monastery from a distance, it sits in a valley, built upward along the mountain. There are many temples and monks’ quarters, very grand and imposing, reminiscent of the Potala Palace in Tibet.
Kumbum Monastery is not only a sacred site of Tibetan Buddhism but also a treasury of Tibetan Buddhist culture and art. Its “Three Great Artistic Treasures” condense ancient historical memory and extraordinary wisdom: murals, appliqué thangkas (duixiu), and butter sculptures—the three artistic marvels of Kumbum.
Entering the monastery, the first thing you see is the Eight Auspicious Stupas in the square. It is said these eight stupas were built to commemorate the eight great deeds of Buddha Shakyamuni’s life.
The stupas are said to contain many Buddhist sacred objects and scriptures, and among them are items once used by Master Tsongkhapa, making them extremely sacred. The niches and mythical beasts on the stupas are lifelike. The eight stupas were also built to recreate the achievements of Shakyamuni from birth to nirvana.
Small Golden Tile Temple (Xiaojinwa Si), also called the Dharmapala Hall, has a corridor displaying specimens of wild cattle, sheep, bears, monkeys, etc. It is said these animal specimens symbolize that all demons and ghosts have been conquered by the gods.
In front of the temple stands the Kalachakra Stupa, also known as the Peace Stupa, with a unique, elegant, and simple shape. The base is square, in the Tibetan bottle-shaped pagoda style, with three layers supporting the body. At the base are four niches housing the Four Heavenly Kings. Devotees from all over come here to circumambulate and worship with great piety.
If one color could describe Kumbum Monastery, it would be deep, restrained, tolerant, mysterious, and quiet—suggesting sacredness and purity: maroon red. When seeing such deep red, you can’t help but feel instant awe. What a shock—visual impact, spiritual impact…
The Great Sutra Hall is a Tibetan-style flat-roofed building of wood and earth, the largest structure in the monastery, covering nearly 2,000 square meters. It is a large hall with 168 pillars, first built in the 34th year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1606 AD).
The Great Sutra Hall is where monks gather to chant scriptures. Upon entering, you see artworks called “duixiu” (appliqué thangkas). Before embroidering, a layer of plum blossom or wool is padded to create a three-dimensional effect. The appliqué includes embroidery and cut-appliqué, with themes mostly from Buddhist stories and religious life. The craftsmanship is fine, patterns are unique, images vivid and intricate—it is a traditional art unique to Kumbum, a masterpiece of monk artists, praised by the art world.
Every day, over 800 monks gather here in the morning to chant, cultivate, and pray for world peace, social harmony, national prosperity, and favorable weather.
The murals of Kumbum Monastery are exquisite, with ancient style, delicate and vivid lines, and slightly exaggerated expressions. The painting technique is smooth and fluent, with special attention to character portrayal, making the works perfect in form and spirit, giving people aesthetic enjoyment. Since the Ming Dynasty, Kumbum’s murals have become valuable materials for studying Buddhist culture, art, ethnology, and folklore.
Kumbum’s murals belong to the Lamaist religious painting system, with strong Indo-Tibetan flavor. The pigments are mineral-based, bright and long-lasting. The content is extensive, mostly from Buddhist scripture stories, mythological stories, karmic stories, the life of Shakyamuni, the achievements of Tsongkhapa’s buddha realm, as well as various buddhas, deities, hell scenes, samsara, and images of eminent monks. The compositions are clever, colors harmonious, delicate and layered, with countless forms and lifelike expressions.
Directly behind the Great Sutra Hall is the main hall and core building—the Great Golden Tile Temple (Dajinwa Si). It is located in the center of the monastery, called “Sertön Chömo” in Tibetan, meaning “golden roof.” The temple was first built in 1560 AD, and in 1711 AD, 1,300 taels of gold and over 10,000 taels of silver were used to change the roof into a golden top, forming a three-layered, double-eave, mountain-shaped golden roof. Later, the eaves were decorated with gold-plated cloud patterns, dripping lotus petals, and flying ridges with pagodas and a pair of “flame palms.” The four corners have vajra-set beasts and copper bells. The bottom floor has glazed brick walls, the second floor has a hemp wall with Tibetan windows, highlighting the golden Sanskrit mirror. The front corridor is wrapped with Tibetan rugs. Inside hang a golden plaque bestowed by Emperor Qianlong, inscribed “Fan Jiao Fa Chuang” (Buddhist Teaching Victory Banner). Entering the Great Golden Tile Temple, you face a 12.5-meter-high large silver pagoda—the birthplace of Tsongkhapa. The silver pagoda has a solid silver base, plated with gold, inlaid with various jewels, and wrapped with dozens of layers of white khata scarves to show nobility. On the pagoda is a niche with a statue of Tsongkhapa. In front are various butter lamp vessels, silver drums, horns, jade censers, and golden streamers. The beams are covered with canopies, embroidered buddha banners, and draped fabric. The ceiling is a caisson decorated with layers of khatas. The entire building is solemn, grand, and majestic.
On the corridors of the Great Golden Tile Temple, many devotees and monks perform full-body prostrations. Perhaps as a traveler, inspired by faith, I looked up at the hall and the faith, filled with admiration.
The prayer wheels record the history of Kumbum Monastery, turning ceaselessly in devout hearts.
Besides magnificent buildings, Kumbum Monastery is also a treasure house of cultural and artistic relics. Wood carvings are also distinctive. Looking at these murals, wood carvings, and appliqués, I feel as if I have traveled through time, conversing with the monastery’s past. It is easy to feel a sense of separation from the present. Modern products are not abundant in Kumbum, so the weight and depth of history are more clearly displayed.
Perhaps I don’t understand Tibetan Buddhism, but we can still feel, observe, and absorb the essence emanating from the monks. Following a touch of maroon, our vision shifts along the timeline of history—brilliant and unique religious architecture, rich and precious art treasures. This is Kumbum Monastery. Anytime, anywhere, with faith in the heart, life itself is a practice.
Leaving Kumbum Monastery, we crossed the Laji Mountain Pass at an altitude of 3,820 meters. Laji Mountain belongs to the Qilian Mountains. The Laji Mountain Pass is known as the “First Pass of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau,” historically an important route on the southern Silk Road and the dividing line between the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and the Loess Plateau.
Laji Mountain is also called Laji Shan (Mountain of Pheasants), as the Tibetan name “Gongmao La” means the place where gala chickens (stone partridges) inhabit. The climate here is diverse; within a day, one can experience rain, snow, fog, overcast, and sunny conditions.
Colorful prayer flags flutter, praying for favorable weather and peace, carrying people’s hopes. Laji Mountain is the boundary between Huangzhong and Guide, the watershed between the Huangshui River and the Yellow River, and the junction of the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Standing here, at the boundary, is the Zongka Lazè—a stone shrine at the pass where long arrows, spears, and prayer flags are placed, symbolizing the mountain as the origin of all mountains and the temple of all deities.
The northern slope of Laji Mountain is steep and rocky, with snow at the pass in seasons other than summer, and fierce winds. The southern slope is gentle, with well-developed water systems; except in winter, herds of cattle and sheep dot the green grass. Standing at Laji Mountain Pass, with one foot on the Roof of the World and the other on the Loess Plateau—one side is the Huangshui Valley, the other the roaring Yellow River. This feeling is indescribable.
Due to its unique geographical location and high altitude, within a day you can experience multiple climate types: rain, snow, fog, haze, overcast, and clear.
Walking at Laji Mountain Pass, letting the cold wind brush your face, a heroic pride arises naturally as you stand on the Loess Plateau and the Roof of the World.
On the way, we crossed Qinghai’s Riyue Mountain (Sun and Moon Mountain). It’s amazing: on one side is agricultural land with vast fields, on the other is nomadic pasture with yaks and sheep. Riyue Mountain is also the boundary between the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Legend says that when Princess Wencheng entered Tibet, she passed here and looked back at Chang’an from the pass. Overwhelmed with homesickness, she took out the “Sun and Moon Mirror” given by the empress—a mirror that showed the charming scenery of Chang’an. In her mixed feelings of joy and sorrow, she accidentally dropped the mirror. It fell at the pass, splitting into two halves. The eastern half faces west, reflecting the setting sun; the western half faces east, reflecting the rising moon. Thus, the mountain was named Riyue (Sun and Moon) Mountain.
Today, two small hills at the pass are called Sun Hill and Moon Hill, each with a pavilion—Sun Pavilion and Moon Pavilion. Inside are inscriptions and murals recording Princess Wencheng’s entry into Tibet. Near the pass square stand two stone tablets: Riyue Mountain and Huiguishi (Looking Back Stone). It is said that this is where Princess Wencheng stood to gaze back at her homeland. Standing here feels like looking back into the long river of history.
Inside the pavilions are exquisite murals. The Sun Pavilion depicts the historical scenes of Princess Wencheng’s journey to Tibet; the Moon Pavilion recreates the historical scroll of her spreading Central Plain culture and promoting cultural and artistic development in Tibet.
Daotang River (Upside-Down River) originates from Riyue Mountain and ends at Qinghai Lake, over 40 kilometers long, flowing quietly westward. This is its wonder: one of the few rivers in China that flows from east to west. It is said that “all rivers under heaven flow east, only this one flows west.”
Actually, the Daotang River originally flowed east, joining the Buha and Luohantang rivers into the Yellow River. Due to crustal movement and the uplift of Riyue Mountain, its direction was reversed to flow west into Qinghai Lake, becoming a true upside-down river.
In summer, the Daotang River flows quietly, prayer flags flutter in the wind, seeing off the river’s westward flow. At the foot of Riyue Mountain, the peacefulness of Daotang River seems so serene. Pastures grow along the river, nurturing the children of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Here, by the lake, looking into the distance, the wind is light, clouds are pale. The lake surface merges with the blue sky at the horizon. The azure lake lies calmly under the sky, bright as a mirror, embedded quietly and deeply on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Occasionally, birds fly by, adding some liveliness.
Qinghai Lake is China’s largest inland saltwater lake. Hundreds of millions of years ago, the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau was a vast ocean. Crustal movements and orogeny began, changing the Earth’s face dramatically. The Qinghai-Tibet Plateau rose, the sea retreated, and through time, it became the Roof of the World. Qinghai Lake was born during this evolution: the lake basin subsided, the lake water continuously evaporated and salinized, forming today’s inland saltwater lake.
In Tibetan, Qinghai Lake is called “Tso Ngonpo,” meaning “blue sea.” Qinghai Province got its name from it. On the plateau, Qinghai Lake constantly displays its vastness, serenity, and tranquility—like a calm sea. Calling Qinghai Lake a sea is not an exaggeration. Looking into the distance, you can’t see the end. Except for the lack of the sea’s salty smell, standing by the lake feels like being at the seaside: gentle waves lap at the cobblestone shore. In summer, rapeseed flowers bloom along the lake, adding a touch of gold. Many authors describe Qinghai Lake’s summer as pure and beautiful—gentle breeze, calm waters—like a fairy tale.
We travel the world, yearning for distant places. Countless people come and leave, leaving behind beautiful pictures and memories. Pure Qinghai Lake remains. Before our eyes lies a wide canvas of yellow, blue, white, and green—elegant, warm, and serene.
Clusters of rapeseed flowers compete to bloom. Qinghai Lake seems like a palette fallen on the plateau. Before this canvas of four interwoven colors, we are extremely excited. Such grand scenery is rare, yet we feel an indescribable comfort, relaxation, peace, and harmony.
Horses graze leisurely by the lake—a harmony of animals and nature. Wildflowers fill the grassland, the blue lake in the distance. This moment can be frozen, remembered, embraced.
Haizi’s poem “July Is Not Far” — For Qinghai Lake, Please Extinguish My Love: July is not far, the birth of gender is not far; love is not far. Under the horse’s nose, the lake contains salt. Therefore, Qinghai is not far. By the lake, bundles of beehives make me look pitifully charming. Green grass blooms with flowers. On Qinghai Lake, my solitude is like heaven’s horse (therefore, heaven’s horse is not far). I am that lover: the wildflower sung in the poem, the only poisonous wildflower in heaven’s horse’s belly. (Qinghai Lake, please extinguish my love!) The green stem of the wildflower is not far, the ancient surname in the medical box is not far. (Other wanderers have been cured and returned to their hometowns. I want to go see you right now.) Therefore, crossing water and wading, death is not far. My bones hang all over my body, like branches on blue water. Ah, Qinghai Lake, the twilight vast water surface—everything is before the eyes! Only the flocks of May life have long flown away, only the first bird that drank my gem has long flown away. Only Qinghai Lake remains, the corpse of the gem, the twilight vast water surface.
The lake’s color changes with the sky and clouds. Rapeseed flowers fill your eyes with gold. Green grass divides the rapeseed into patches, occasionally dotted with cattle, sheep, and horses. The blue lake gently ripples, mild and promising.
Large tracts of rich rapeseed flowers accompany the lake quietly. Under the plateau’s blue sky and white clouds, flowers bloom in splendor, inlaid together with Qinghai Lake on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Reeds by the lake stand tall in the wind, stretching their panicles higher, receiving the baptism of Qinghai Lake’s wind.
Sometimes I wish time could stop here, to think quietly, to merge with nature. Perhaps I could gain more insights, guiding us to continue moving forward in life, understanding the meaning of life. Maybe this is the meaning of travel.
Colorful prayer flags flutter in the sunlight and breeze, spreading scriptures to distant places. Without prayer flags, we might forget we are on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, by Qinghai Lake.
Qinghai Lake’s sunset has a unique temperament, full of beauty, marking the end of a beautiful day. Sunset is the transition point of the day, bringing Qinghai Lake into deeper tranquility. Perhaps during the day, the lake is a bit noisy and jubilant due to visitors; now it is only serene and transparent. Standing by the lake, feeling the most brilliant sunset afterglow—this is the most romantic picture Qinghai Lake gives us. The sunset is mesmerizing: watch the sky full of colored clouds, the sun slowly sinking under the water and sky. In the thin gap, a rosy arc gradually disappears at the horizon.
Gorgeous evening clouds, the clouds at the horizon become silhouettes. The sun bursts out rays of light, offering the last glimmer before the night comes. Distant birds soar freely, the sky dyed red. We just wish this scene could be frozen.
Facing the magnificent sunset of Qinghai Lake, without the city’s noise, without life’s worries, without trivial disputes—at this moment, we are intoxicated by the sunset’s beauty, unwilling to wake up. For some beautiful scenery, quietly waiting is enough. Walking along the lake, watching the colored clouds in the sky, stepping into the clear water, our hearts are so quiet.
Indeed, it’s worth staying one night at Qinghai Lake—strolling by the lakeside, spending more time with Qinghai Lake, and you will discover more of its beauty.
I believe that when mentioning “Sky Mirror,” many people think of Bolivia’s Uyuni Salt Flat—a giant mirror of the world where you can’t tell sky from earth. Of course, Uyuni is far away and unreachable. But in Qinghai, there is also a small sky mirror—Caka Salt Lake. Within reach, white clouds, an endless lake, and a long railway track leading deep into the lake’s heart…
Caka was my biggest expectation for Qinghai travel besides Qinghai Lake. Finally arriving, it was as beautiful as I imagined—even more so. I had imagined standing here countless times: the breeze on my face, the sun a bit hot, the air fresh. Now the feeling is amplified. The railway track to the lake’s heart is over 100 years old, with a gauge of only 60 centimeters—one of the few remaining “cun gui” (narrow gauge).
The salt lake reflects the sky, clouds, and mountains on the opposite shore beautifully. You can walk barefoot into the shallow lake—the salt grains are a bit rough, crunching under your feet. A different feeling, a unique experience—you must try it.
Standing there, you can’t say time has stopped, but it truly seems to have paused. Suddenly you feel this is not a lake but a mirror, a fusion of heaven and earth. It’s hard to tell sky from earth. Such a pure place is rare in the real world. Look up—there’s a blue sky above; look down—there’s still a blue sky below. You can’t tell whether the lake reflects the sky or the lake melts into the blue sky.
I believe that at this moment, Caka is a blue-and-white fairy tale between heaven and earth, clean without a speck of dust.
The scenic area also has a sightseeing train, plus distant mountains and colorful prayer flags—all merging into one beautiful landscape. “Caka” is Tibetan for “salt pond.” Along with Kumbum Monastery, Qinghai Lake, and Mengda Tianchi, it is known as one of the “Four Great Scenic Spots of Qinghai.” It was also rated by National Geographic Traveler as one of the “55 places to go in a lifetime.” Caka Salt Lake exists because of drought but is beautiful because of water. The “Sky Mirror” is formed by the delicate balance between brine and water.
Distant mountains float with white clouds, the lake reflects your figure, the open lake surface becomes lively. Blue sky and white clouds set each other off, water and sky depend on each other romantically, light and shadow interlace—this is the charm of Caka Salt Lake.
Emerald Lake (Feicui Hu) is located on the northeast side of Iqe Dakaidam Lake, about ten kilometers northwest of Dachaidan Town. It was originally a mining area of the Dachaidan Chemical Plant’s salt lake mining team, also called Dachaidan Lake. Because it was a former mining area, the surrounding lakes are rich in minerals, combining with the salt flats to create unique scenery. The lakes here vary in size and shape—pit ponds formed by years of mining, now filled with water. Due to the high mineral content, the water surface shows different colors.
Emerald Lake presents various shades of jade green. Because fewer people come here, the water is clearer. The lake’s colors include emerald green, mint blue, milky white, and amber yellow. The edges are milky white. Viewed from above with a drone, it looks like uncut emeralds, jade, and turquoise inlaid on the earth—stunning. The lake is crystal clear, jade-like, seemingly naturally made, as if jewels have fallen to earth.
Jade-green lake water, newly crystallized salt formations crisscrossing—an incredibly beautiful sight. It is said that different sunlight and seasons bring different shades of color.
From God’s perspective, the lake looks even more charming, elegant, and pure.
Kneeling by the lake, cupping a handful of water, picking up a piece of white salt crystal—this is the color of nature, the color of Emerald Lake.
1. Emerald Lake is a mining area of a local chemical company, existing for many years, but currently medium and large buses cannot enter.
2. Since it hasn’t been largely developed, there are no signs—be sure to ask for directions!
【Photography Tips】
1. To capture the reflection effect, use a wide-angle lens.
2. Due to light refraction, bring a neutral density filter or polarizer (because water surface is highly reflective, use a polarizer to control reflections and emphasize lake tone or blue sky), to avoid overexposure.
3. Use elements like trees and rocks to create a sense of space with foreground, middle ground, and background, or add richness, like boats.
4. Use an ultra-wide-angle lens to capture the railway track extending endlessly.
5. Set white balance slightly cool to make the sky bluer.
6. For star photography, need a strong flashlight and tripod.
【Accommodation】
There are no hotels or guesthouses near Emerald Lake. After visiting, head to other attractions or towns for lodging. If you joined a regular tour group, no worries.
National Highway G215, starting from Hongliuyuan in Gansu to Golmud in Qinghai, also called the Hongge Highway. It passes through Gansu and Qinghai, a total length of 641 km. G215 is an economic trunk line through the Qaidam Basin and an important connecting line on the Eurasian Continental Bridge. Its north end connects with the Eurasian Continental Bridge’s Lianhuo Highway (G312), the 43 km section from Yuka to Dachaidan overlaps with G315, and the south end connects to G109. This is a stunning highway in the Qaidam Basin, surrounded by Gobi and desert. The entire stretch is about 340 km, with hours of desert and Gobi scenery. Occasionally, wild animals appear in the distance, making the Gobi seem even emptier and more desolate.
From Emerald Lake to Dunhuang, driving on a straight road, the vastness and desolation of the northwest Gobi accompanies the speeding car, the wind whistling past the windows. There are few cars on this road, with endless Gobi desert, blue sky, white clouds—though the colors are monotonous, the scene is rare and you can feel the tenderness of the western Gobi. In this desolate no-man’s land, there are wild camels, gazelles, wild horses, foxes, etc.—they are the masters of this land, and we do not disturb them.
Here, I feel very close to the horizon—just keep driving forward and you’ll reach it.
Of course, such a scene calls for a classic northwest highway photo. Be careful of traffic when taking pictures.
Dunhuang Yadan National Geopark, also called Dunhuang Yadan Devil City, is a peculiar landform formed by long-term wind erosion (yardang). Devil City is located at the border of Xinjiang and Gansu, part of the ancient Lop Nur. It stretches about 15 km east-west, 2 km north-south. Years of rain erosion and wind carrying sand, plus extreme heat and cold, have created the current appearance of Devil City—like a naturally built castle.
Walking through it feels like entering a Gobi wind-erosion art gallery. Strange rocks of all shapes come into view, masterpieces of nature that amaze. The power of nature and the accumulation of time have given it today’s form. After many years, what changes will occur? A new temple will be born again.
“Devil City” is called “devil” for three reasons: first, its unique landform—once an ancient riverbed, after the river dried up, the exposed riverbed looks extremely eerie; second, the terrain is very low, roads are hard to distinguish, magnetic anomalies make compasses useless, and almost no one has been here; third, the wind is extremely strong, drought and waterless; fourth, it lies in the desert Gobi—when night falls, the sharp wind and sand make terrifying howls, like thousands of beasts roaring, sending chills down your spine.
The artistic conception of “ancient road, west wind, thin horse, setting sun in the west”—watching the setting sun, appreciating the thin mist floating in Devil City, the mist reflecting the scenery of Devil City…
It has no name and cannot be navigated on Baidu Maps. It is called Aksai Oil Town. The town existed not for tourism but for oil extraction. Its peak was in the 1980s, with complete public facilities. In just twenty years, the town went from prosperity to decline and was relocated.
Everything here was paused 20 years ago. The buildings, slogans, etc., were preserved, reflecting the life of the last century. Later, it was discovered as a film base, and many movies were shot here, leading to tourism prosperity.
From a distance, windowless houses, broken walls, collapsed roofs, abandoned schools, gas stations, lonely lamp posts, and stop signs silently tell of their former prosperity.
The film “The Ghouls” (Nine-Story Demon Tower) was shot here, and after its release, the place became lively again, becoming a must-visit stop on the northwest loop.
Walking along the town’s streets, you see various ruined buildings. This was a glorious kindergarten—oil workers sent their children here. Now, no sounds of playing or babbling, only the howling wind.
Perhaps everyone has a town in their heart—either brand new or scarred like Aksai. But as long as it exists, we should be grateful, because it makes the past not just smoke but a solid existence, and because of its existence, there is unyielding hope.
Ruins everywhere, the marks of history are so profound.
Seeing the slogan “Safety for Production,” one can imagine the bustling scene and fiery work atmosphere back then.
Before a city declines, it is at its most prosperous. This place records the rise and fall of Lenghu Oilfield, the struggle and endeavor of the older generation of oil workers. They took root here, endured countless hardships, and shed tears.
The traces of people’s lives here have blurred. The broken walls leave historical marks and the hardship of northwestern life and production.
The Hexi Corridor was like a major artery from the Han Empire to the Western Regions, starting from the center of Chang’an, deep into the desert, to the Western countries. Emperor Wu of Han set up four commanderies (Wuwei, Jiuquan, Zhangye, Dunhuang) and built Yangguan and Yumen Passes, known as “列四郡、据两关” (establishing four commanderies and occupying two passes). Yangguan and Yumen—one south, one north—are like two shining pearls on the northwestern frontier, still dazzling in the long history of over 2,000 years. The Yumen Pass ruins, Xiaofangpan City—every watchtower, every beacon, every city has profound history. Every stone, every grain of sand, every stretch of Gobi is the soul of the Silk Road, accumulated over 2,000 years of vicissitudes…
Time flies, a thousand years in a glance. The glory of the past can still be glimpsed in the remnants. Look at the ancient city gate ruins, the lighthouse through history. The former glory of Yumen Pass seems like the first time. After thousands of years of weathering, Yumen Pass and Yangguan gradually faded into history, losing their former function, leaving only city walls and earth fortresses.
From the broken remnants of the Han Great Wall, we see not melancholy and sorrow but deep admiration for the wisdom and construction art of the ancients. Surviving for 2,000 years in the harsh northwest wind and sand is a great miracle. Though they have lost their military function, their role and status in history are crucial.
Looking up at the sky, in the long river of history, we are but a drop in the ocean. We can’t help but marvel at the power of nature, the vastness of history, and our own insignificance. We are also creating our own history, learning to use it to influence and brighten others’ lives.
Mogao Caves, commonly known as the Thousand Buddha Grottoes, are located at the western end of the Hexi Corridor in Dunhuang. They were first built in the Sixteen Kingdoms period (Former Qin), and then continuously expanded through the Northern Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Western Xia, Yuan, etc., forming a huge scale with 735 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals, and 2,415 painted clay sculptures. It is the world’s largest and richest site of Buddhist art.
The art of Mogao Caves is a comprehensive artistic hall integrating architecture, painted sculptures, and murals. It is the largest and best-preserved treasure house of Buddhist art in the world, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1991.
Mogao Caves is also a cultural gathering place. The murals cover a wide range: architectural paintings (pavilions and towers), landscape paintings (mountains and rivers), flower paintings (plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum), and figure paintings (Buddhas, Medicine Buddha). These paintings perfectly demonstrate the wisdom of ancient Chinese craftsmen, who used dynamic, smooth, and complex lines to give authenticity to scenes. The murals also combine Western Regions and Central Plains styles, elevating their cultural value. I think both the external view and cultural view are essential.
On the archway of Mogao Caves are four characters “三危揽胜” (Sanwei Scenic Spot). Many mistakenly read it as “三兔揽胜” (three rabbits), but it actually refers to the nearby Sanwei Mountain.
The murals have a significant impact on China’s religion, culture, and art. Paintings vividly display historical stories or current events. If you do some research beforehand, visiting Mogao Caves will give you deeper insights.
Except for the Nine-Story Building, most exteriors are small doors, looking unremarkable, but inside are splendid caves and invaluable treasures.
Mogao Caves is located in the desert Gobi, with dry and windy climate year-round. Many murals have lost their original luster over time, but you can still glimpse the deep colors and ancient history, even imagine the grand scene when the paintings were completed.
The murals are astonishingly rich, mostly depicting stories from Buddhist scriptures—such as the Nine-Colored Deer, Prince Sattva, flying celestials, and the pipa played behind the back. Countless classic images.
Crescent Moon Spring (Yueya Quan), known in ancient times as Sand Well or Medicine Spring, has been one of the “Eight Scenic Spots of Dunhuang” since the Han Dynasty, named “Moon Spring Dawn Clear.” It is about 100 meters long, 25 meters wide, and up to 5 meters deep. Shaped like a crescent moon, it is called the “First Spring in the Desert.” A crescent-shaped clear spring with lush plants at the edge, like an emerald inlaid in the desert. Crescent Moon Spring has never dried up despite being surrounded by shifting sand—a marvel.
Crescent Moon Spring and Singing Sand Dunes (Mingsha Shan) are twin brothers in the northwest desert. Overlooking from the hilltop or listening by the spring, you feel the Western Regions atmosphere through the ages. There is a description: “Singing Sand Dunes soothe the nature, Crescent Moon Spring cleanses the heart.” Like a new moon fallen from the sky into the vast desert, the spring is cool and clear, like an eye of freshness in the desert, lying quietly in the embrace of sand dunes for thousands of years. Although wind and sand have raged for millennia, the spring has never dried up, still rippling with clear water.
Walking by the lake, we see the spring water sweet, clear as a mirror. More marvelously, the flowing sand is close to the spring, yet for thousands of years, despite fierce winds, the sand spring has not been buried. Located in the Gobi, the water remains clear and never dries up. This unique landscape of sand and spring coexisting is truly a “world wonder.” Crescent Moon Spring is a dreamlike and mysterious place in the desert—a clear spring amid the desolation of wind and sand, offering great comfort to travelers throughout history.
Beside the spring, a group of elegant pavilions called Mingyue Pavilion was first built in the Han Dynasty. It is said that Crescent Moon Spring was already a tourist attraction in the Han Dynasty. The pavilion covers about 3,400 square meters.
The design of Mingyue Pavilion draws on architectural features depicted in Dunhuang murals, adopting a symmetrical layout with corridors surrounding the pavilions in ancient style. The tallest building is Yuequan Pavilion.
Yuequan Pavilion is a four-story, hexagonal wooden structure. Each floor has corridors, upturned eaves, brackets, and green tiles. Inside, stairs lead up to the fourth floor. The pavilion by the spring enriches the overall style of Crescent Moon Spring, making it more elegant.
Singing Sand Dunes (Mingsha Shan) get their name from the sound of sand moving. Ancient names include “Sand Horn Mountain” and “Divine Sand Mountain.” The dunes are formed by accumulated quicksand, stretching about 40 km east-west, 20 km north-south, with a maximum altitude of 1,715 meters. The sand ridges are interconnected, peaks as sharp as blades. From a distance, they roll like a dragon coiled or waves in the sea, magnificent.
In the evening sunlight, the dunes turn golden, like a glittering “gold mountain.”
It is said there are over 1,000 camels in the scenic area, each making up to 5 trips a day. The route: West of Mingyue Square—East Hilltop—Xiaoquan Bay. Round trip camel ride costs 100 RMB per person.
The sand comes in five colors: pink, yellow, green, white, and black. It sparkles, does not cling to dust. When rubbed or vibrated, it makes sound—soft like string instruments or loud like thunder. On clear days, even when wind stops and sand is still, it emits sounds like string and wind instruments, like music. This is the scene of “Sand Ridge Clear Sound.”
Every afternoon, many people climb the dunes to see the sunset over Crescent Moon Spring. The dunes are connected, extending for thousands of years, enduring wind, millions of footsteps, yet the sand returns to its original state overnight, standing tall on the desert.
For viewing the sunset over Crescent Moon Spring, Singing Sand Dunes offer the best vantage point.
Jiayuguan Pass was first built in the 5th year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1372), earlier than the “First Pass Under Heaven” — Shanhaiguan. It took 168 years of continuous construction to become the most spectacular pass along the Great Wall. It is over 600 years old. Located 6 km southwest of Jiayuguan city, it was named after Jiayu Mountain. The city walls on both sides cross the desert Gobi: the north connects to the Suspended Great Wall on Heishan, the south connects to the First Pier Under Heaven. The distance between them is only 30 li (about 15 km), the narrowest part of the Hexi Corridor, called the First Defile of Hexi. It is also the westernmost pass of the Ming Great Wall and a strategic fortress on the ancient Silk Road, known as the “First Grand Pass Under Heaven” and “Key to the Border.”
Ascending the Jiayuguan tower, you see inner city walls and outer walls linked, watchtowers and corner towers leaning on each other. Among the vast yellow sand, the Han Great Wall moves like a dragon, beacon towers and remnants appear and disappear—like a historical scroll condensing the vicissitudes of the border.
Jiayuguan Pass is known as the “First Grand Pass Under Heaven.” It connects the Suspended Great Wall in the north and the First Pier Under Heaven in the south. It is the westernmost pass of the Ming Great Wall and one of the three great wonders of the Great Wall: east is Shanhaiguan, middle is Zhenbeitai, west is Jiayuguan.
The layout of Jiayuguan Pass is well-designed and reasonable. There are three lines of walls (inner city, barbican, outer city), multiple defenses. The inner city has an outer moat, forming a layered defense. It consists of the inner city, barbican, outer city, moat, and three three-story, three-eave, gable-and-hip roof towers, as well as moats, walls, and beacon towers.
The Jiayuguan Theater was built in the 57th year of Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty (1792), sponsored by General Daishi. It was an entertainment venue for garrison soldiers, residents, merchants, and envoys. Its form is a classic Chinese traditional stage. The front and back stages are separated by a wooden screen with eight figure paintings—the well-known “Eight Immortals.” The top features the traditional Chinese “Bagua” (Eight Trigrams) pattern. The murals on the east and west walls depict a true story in a monastery: a monk and a woman committing adultery, leading to Buddha’s punishment—the woman gave birth to a monster, painted as a warning. The couplet on both sides: “Lihe beihuan yan wangshi, yuzhong houning ren dang chang” (Separation and reunion, sorrow and joy, tell past events; the foolish and the wise, the loyal and the treacherous, are seen on the stage). This couplet is considered a unique masterpiece in theater history, indicating that the stage performs historical stories of joy and sorrow. It is said the theater was built here for two reasons: first, entering the inner city meant entering a military restricted area; placing the stage under the military area aimed at sharing joy with soldiers and civilians; second, in ancient times, information was not advanced—going to the Western Regions took decades or years. The theater was a must-pass before entering Jiayuguan, thus serving as an information relay, showing the latest national events—who served the country loyally, who betrayed the court. One can imagine the lively scene of listening to opera here.
Rouyuan Tower, along with the three main city towers, lies on the same central axis, all 17 meters high, three-story, three-eave gable-and-hip roof style. Its style is identical to Guanghua Tower on the east gate. Below is the west gate of the inner city, with the inscription “Rouyuan” (Pacify the Distant), meaning to adopt a policy of “conciliating the distant to secure the border.” It reflects the Ming court’s strategy of “Huairou” (conciliatory policy) towards nomadic peoples beyond the pass, to achieve long-term peace. Below Rouyuan Tower is Rouyuan Gate. Outside the gate is a square barbican connecting to the inner city. The barbican gate is on the side, not directly facing the inner city gate, making the entry path winding and deep, unfavorable for enemy attack. Once enemies enter the barbican, they cannot break into the inner city nor retreat quickly—like turtles in a jar, easy prey. Moreover, to break into the pass, enemies must pass at least twelve major barriers: outer moat wall, outer moat, leg-breaking pits, crescent city, moat wall, trench, Jiayuguan Gate, Huiji Gate, Rouyuan Gate, Guanghua Gate, Chaozong Gate, East Gate. Every possible defensive measure was used—truly an impregnable fortress, rarely seen elsewhere. No wonder it is called the “First Grand Pass Under Heaven.”
Guanghua Gate is the east gate of the inner city, inscribed “Guanghua Gate,” facing east, symbolizing the rising sun and auspicious light shining on the land. It was built in the 1st year of Zhengde in the Ming Dynasty (1506), supervised by Li Duanchi, Vice Commissioner of Suzhou. The gate passage is paved with stone strips from Heishan. Guanghua Tower is three-story, three-eave, 17 meters high, finely carved and painted. The first floor is brick-and-wood, the second and third floors are mortise-and-tenon wooden structures. Despite nearly 500 years of wind, rain, and earthquakes, it still stands firm.
Wenchang Hall (Temple of the God of Literature) was first built in the Ming Dynasty and rebuilt in the 2nd year of Daoguang in the Qing Dynasty (1822). Located outside the east barbican of Jiayuguan, it is a Taoist temple. The hall is two-story, two-eave gable-and-hip roof, with single-room shops on both sides of the ground floor, surrounded by 18 red lacquered columns forming a corridor. Inside is a hall with three bays wide and two bays deep, with lattice doors and windows on all sides. The upper part is painted with over 80 landscape and figure paintings. The total building area is over 100 square meters. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was a place for literati to gather, compose poems, paint, and read. In the late Qing, it became an office for civil officials, and later a place to worship the Wenchang Deity (God of Literature). In ancient times, families with children starting school would worship Wenchang, also known as Zitong Dijun, Wenqu Star, or Wenchang Star. People believed that a bright Wenchang star foretold the rise of literary fortune, so he was the patron god of scholars. He is enshrined in many Taoist temples. Taoism adopted this deity around the 6th century. It is said that Wenchang Dijun was a son of the Yellow Emperor and continuously reincarnated to benefit the people—a high-ranking god responsible for learning and exams. After the 14th century, many schools in China enshrined him. His birthday is on the 3rd day of the 2nd lunar month. Especially in the Qing Dynasty, even the emperor sent people to congratulate him. This shows that while Wenchang Dijun is a Taoist god, he has strong Confucian overtones. Other records say that in the Tang Dynasty, a man named Zhang Ya from Zhejiang moved to Zitong in Sichuan and worked as a teacher. He was virtuous, honest, talented, and respected. After his death, people deified him in memory. Over time, he received imperial patronage and gradually evolved into the patron god of literature, academia, and examinations, eventually called Wenchang Dijun.
Guandi Temple (Temple of Lord Guan) was originally a building inside Jiayuguan Pass. In the late Ming and early Qing, it was moved to its current location. The temple originally had one main hall, two side halls, a knife room, a waiting hall, a horse room, and a memorial archway, totaling 720 square meters. It underwent several expansions and renovations. The last renovation was in 1998, funded by the Jiayuguan Pass Cultural Relics Office, which fully restored the temple and painted the archway, reviving its Ming-Qing splendor.
The “Tianxia Xiongguan” (First Grand Pass Under Heaven) stele is located about 100 meters outside the west gate, erected in the Qing Dynasty. In the 14th year of Jiaqing (1809), the garrison commander Li Tingchen, when inspecting Jiayuguan’s defense, saw the Qilian snowy mountains to the south and Heishan to the north, and the imposing pass, so he wrote “Tianxia Xiongguan” and had it engraved on a stele. In Chinese history, there are two lifelines crossing the country: one runs east-west, reaching the sea, guarding the ancient nation—the Great Wall; the other also runs east-west, deep into Asia and Europe, expanding Chinese civilization—the Silk Road. These two lifelines, closely tied to the survival and development of the Chinese nation, drifted and extended through history, finally converging 600 years ago at the throat of the Hexi Corridor under the Qilian Mountains, tying a solid knot—Jiayuguan.
Standing on the city wall, looking at the desert Gobi, one can imagine the ancient cavalry battles and the thriving cultural exchange on the Silk Road during the Tang Dynasty. One can still feel the magnificent border scenery of “lonely smoke in the vast desert, setting sun over the long river,” fully expressing the cruelty, sorrow, and heroism of battlefields: “Don’t laugh if I lie drunk on the battlefield; how many have returned from ancient wars?”
Zhangye Danxia National Geological Park covers an area of 510 km², distributed in Linze, Sunan, and Ganzhou districts. It mainly includes the colorful hills in Nantaizi, Linze County; Sunan Binggou Danxia; and Pinghu Lake Danxia in Ganzhou. We visited the colorful hilly Danxia landform in Nantaizi, Linze County, at the northern foot of the Qilian Mountains. As an ancient geological relic, it developed from the Jurassic to Tertiary periods, formed during the Himalayan orogeny. Red rock series emerged; with crustal uplift, slopes mainly collapsed and retreated, preserving red sandstone that underwent long-term weathering and water erosion, forming isolated strange rocks. Its prominent feature is “color like cinnabar, brilliance like rosy clouds.” Zhangye Seven-Colored Danxia is a highly complex area of Danxia landform and colorful hills.
Its grandeur, magnificent spectacle, unique shapes, and brilliant colors amaze with nature’s craftsmanship.
It not only has the peculiarity and danger of ordinary Danxia but is even more beautiful in color. Within an area of over 10 km², you can see red, yellow, orange, green, white, celeste, gray-black, gray-white, and many other bright colors, decorating countless gullies and hills with gorgeous hues.
Zhangye Danxia landform, with its interlaced bedding lines, riotous colors, and brilliant beauty, is like a colorful fairy-tale world.
An ancient poem says: “High peaks stand like old dragon scales, cut out lotus flowers for painting.” Immersed in it, the beauty is dizzying—a veritable “Seven-Colored Immortal Terrace,” broader and more spectacular than the “Devil City” in Dunhuang, with magnificent scale, spectacular scenes, rich shapes, unique forms, and brilliant colors. It is the most typical Danxia landform in arid areas of China, rarely seen in the world.
It is a natural scenic area that combines the cliffs, peaks, and pillars of Guangdong Danxia’s peculiarity, danger, and beauty with the colorful splendor of Xinjiang’s colorful city.
“Drunken Danxia” at sunset: each peak shows different colors in the twilight. This inclined rock layer is especially bright, set off by the setting sun like sails returning to port—a landscape called “Evening Glow Returning Sails.” Geologically, the “sails” are actually a syncline fold.
The Seven-Colored Danxia has interlaced bedding, smooth lines, magnificent momentum, and unique shapes, showing the power of nature. In the light, the Danxia looks like rising morning clouds. Close up, colors are brilliant: red, white, yellow. The colored bands undulate along the hills like bright ribbons fluttering in the wind.
Here, there is no majestic “standing atop the mountain, seeing all smaller peaks,” but there is the heroic feeling of “stopping at the foot of the mountain, looking out over the plain.” In ancient times, it was called “Dadoubo Valley.” It is impressive: it cuts through the rolling Qilian Mountains, forming a gorge about 30 km long at an altitude of over 2,800 meters, opening a passage to Gansu and Qinghai. The southern Silk Road passed through here to Gansu, Qinghai, and the Western Regions. On the grassy plains, horses gallop, cattle and sheep chase. In midsummer, the climate is cool, the air fresh—you can fully enjoy the beautiful pastoral scenery: blue sky, yellow flowers, mountains reflecting the setting sun. Patch after patch, one after another—such a vigorous and magnificent beauty makes you sigh in wonder and feel relaxed and happy.
This is a charming ancient road. Since ancient times, it has been a strategic military site. Today, it is a picture in the eyes of travelers and a beautiful scenery line on National Highway 227. Walking along Highway 227, the fresh breath of nature hits your face. Near, small green grasses sway in the wind; far, the breeze gently brushes the pastoral flowers and grasses dancing together, with the rustling sound of the wind drifting up to the Qilian Mountains to hold hands intimately with the clouds…
In summer, Biandukou is covered with endlessly spreading golden rapeseed flowers. The rape flowers here are like a dreamy fairy tale, with a sea of flowers, mountains, blue sky, and white clouds. It is a poetic “Beautiful Pastoral China.”
Before setting foot on this land, I imagined a hundred ways of this gentle side of the northwest, but I never expected to be so moved.
When you come to the golden pastoral of Biandukou, the golden rapeseed flowers look like a huge piece of gold—maybe exaggerated, but these hundreds of acres of rape flowers spread out one patch after another, truly like a vast gold field. The straight National Highway 227 splits the rape flower fields in two. As the hills roll, they connect into one. Strolling through the sea of flowers, the fragrance hits your nose, refreshing your mind—truly an enjoyment.
When the breeze blows, you can appreciate the “waves” formed by the rape flowers, full of vitality, like a beautiful oil painting before your eyes. Green highland barley and golden rape flowers form a round smiling face.
Golden rape flowers, azure sky, white clouds, herds of cattle and sheep, green grassland—when blended together in Biandukou by nature, the heart-stirring beauty is almost indescribable.
Here, there are fragrant flowers and tender grass; here, there are holy white clouds and blue skies; here, there is the beautiful Biandukou scenic area, the rape flower sea, and the extending Qilian Mountains.
Looking at the Qilian Mountains from afar, the azure sky and open view are nothing short of amazing. White clouds dot the blue sky. Golden rape flowers and the distant loess hills are sharply distinct. Looking into the distance, you take in the natural scenery, feeling immensely pleased. The rolling hills are like emerald silk, wrapping around the endless sea of flowers stretching into the distance… In the fields, small houses with simple and harmonious colors are like safe havens in the flower sea. Winding countryside paths interlace in the fields like branches of the flower sea, supporting a patch of green and a patch of gold. Pedestrians walking in the fields are like fruits brewed by nature, scattered among them—sometimes dense, sometimes sparse…
Zhu’er Mountain is composed of red sandstone and conglomerate, belonging to Danxia landform. In Tibetan, it is called “Zongmu Mayuma,” meaning “Beautiful Blush Queen.”
Standing on the summit of Zhu’er Mountain, you see green grass and tall, verdant Qinghai pines dotted among them. Looking around, the view is open. Opposite is Niuxin Mountain, which, due to its altitude, presents four seasons’ scenery from foot to top in layers. On the left and right are the scenic areas of Lado Gorge and Baiyang Gully. Behind, the Qilian Mountains roll; at the foot, the Babao River winds like a white khata scarf around the county. The Zhu’er Mountain scenic area is beautiful everywhere, like a fairyland.
Zhu’er Mountain is surrounded by the endless Qilian Mountains. From June to August, the grassland is emerald green, and golden rape flowers are vigorous and magnificent.
Zhu’er Mountain is a natural landscape combining Danxia landform, prayer flags, incense offerings, Niuxin Mountain, and the “Heavenly Qilian” and many other famous scenic spots.
The mountains are bold yet delicate, masculine yet gentle. The flowers rise and fall, prosperous like brocade, just like a dyed canvas.
Dynamic and beautiful curves, vivid and colorful pictures—the rape flower fields come in layers. The most eye-catching are the red-tinted mountain bodies, the green swaying highland barley, and the golden rape flowers.
From far to near, from near to far, I am lost in this scenery of the “Little Switzerland of the East.”
Located on the edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in the northwest, at the foot of the Qilian Mountains, Menyuan every July witnesses the miracle of small rape flowers. Besides the rape flowers, there are snowy mountains, highland barley, blue sky, and white clouds. The sea of flowers stretches for 60 kilometers, filling the view with gold, setting off against the Qilian Mountains.
Looking at the sea of flowers from afar, the golden rape flower sea seems even more dazzling against the blue sky and snowy mountains—indescribable in words…
Ascending step by step, looking outward, all around is the rape flower sea, the continuous Qilian Mountains, the towering Daban Mountain, the vast and boundless rapeseed fields like a natural giant oil painting spreading to the horizon, giving strong visual impact—dazzling and stirring. If the patches of gold seen from Daban Mountain were like a series of jumping notes, then when you ascend the highest point of Qingshizui Observation Deck, the symphony of Menyuan’s hundred-mile rape flowers finally reaches its most passionate and surging climax.
A large stretch of golden rape flowers, green highland barley—the green is vivid, the gold bright, and the sky a mesmerizing blue.
The continuous Qilian Mountains are majestic and sacred, like a giant dragon guarding this beautiful land.
Liangpi (cold noodles) is one of the unique snacks in the northwest. Although it is customarily known as a “Shaanxi snack,” the liangpi in Gansu stands out in the northwestern liangpi family due to its unique production process and taste. It is delicious and refreshing, appetizing and relieving summer heat, economical and filling—can be both a main dish and a summer snack.
Shouzhua Yangrou (hand-grabbed lamb) has a simple cooking process but high quality. In Qinghai, there is a saying: “Eat meat without garlic, lose half the nutrition.” Qinghai people firmly believe that the combination of Caka salt and plateau lamb creates the pure taste of plateau delicacy. Crispy, chewy, and firm are the most praised unique textures of hand-grabbed lamb. This dish is called “Kaiguo Rou” (pot-opening meat). For thousands of years, Qinghai people’s love for hand-grabbed lamb has never changed, nor has the cooking method changed much. It used to be the highest-level hospitality dish in pastoral areas. The best time to eat hand-grabbed lamb is from midsummer to early winter. When a distinguished guest arrives, after drinking butter tea, the hospitable host chooses a plump lamb from the flock, slaughters it on the spot, cleans it, puts it in the pot, and cooks it. In the time it takes to drink three bowls of butter tea, a large plate of steaming hand-grabbed lamb is served. The lamb has red lean meat and white fat, with an attractive color, not greasy, not gamey. Hand-grabbed lamb is a unique way of eating lamb on the Qinghai Plateau. It gets its name because you eat it by holding the meat with one hand and cutting it with a knife. The cooking method is very simple: fresh lamb is boiled in water, then add salt or dip in salt. The cooked lamb is well-cooked but not overdone, with delicious meat.
Yongqing Yogurt: This small shop is inconspicuous, located in Mojiakou Street in central Xining. The bowl yogurt is a local specialty, very tasty, 5 yuan per small bowl.
Yangza Tang (lamb offal soup) is generally made from lamb tripe, liver, stomach, heart, intestines, etc., simmered slowly with seasonings. It is light, fresh, and rich in taste. It can be eaten as breakfast or a main meal. A bowl of steaming lamb offal soup is served with a pancake; break the pancake, take the offal out of the soup, and put it in the pancake—eat the meat-filled pancake and drink the soup—refreshing!
Qinghai Hotpot (Tu Huoguo) was introduced to Qinghai around the Western Han Dynasty, initially only enjoyed by a few upper-class people, and only became popular among ordinary people in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Qinghai people also call it “Guozi.” During festivals, family reunions, and entertaining guests, they often prepare a “pot” to add color to the banquet, showing respect and hospitality to guests. The ingredients and cooking method of Qinghai hotpot have distinctive Qinghai-Tibet Plateau characteristics, including the unique dietary customs, human environment, and product resources of the plateau. The plateau has a cold climate and is rich in cattle and sheep. The “base” of Qinghai hotpot is usually lamb clear soup with a little pickled cabbage. The flavor is spicy and savory, without red oil or too many seasonings. The soup is clear, with a natural and mellow taste. Take a bite—the freshness of the lamb perfectly combines with the crisp pickled cabbage, leaving a pleasant aftertaste without greasiness.
When mentioning Dunhuang, most people probably only think of Mogao Caves, Crescent Moon Spring, etc., but few know about one of the “Eight Strange Things of Dunhuang”—“sauced donkey meat and yellow noodles pulled outside the door.” Sauced donkey meat and yellow noodles are known as “a unique delicacy of China.” Some even call it the signature and brand of Dunhuang, making it a highlight of Dunhuang’s food culture. As the saying goes, “dragon meat in heaven, donkey meat on earth.” Dunhuang people love eating noodles and meat; the combination of donkey meat and yellow noodles creates the golden brand of Dunhuang cuisine—sauced donkey meat and yellow noodles.
Milk egg fermented rice (Niunai Jidan Laozao) is a visual delicacy. Fresh milk and fermented rice are boiled in a small copper pot, then beaten egg liquid is slowly added. Don’t add any water—only the taste of milk and eggs, with the sweet fermented rice flavor. Topped with black sesame, peanuts, walnuts, goji berries, and raisins—crispy and delicious, warming your heart.
Grilled lamb—eat it while hot, the meat is tender and fragrant.
Kangguo Yangrou (pan-fried lamb) is a very characteristic dish in Qinghai. It is usually made with lamb ribs, onions, potatoes, etc., cooked in a pan. The aroma of lamb combined with the unique cooking method gives a taste you can’t get in the interior. No gamey smell—very delicious. After tasting the specialties of the great northwest, our journey to the northwest also drew to an end.
