Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, and Shanxi: A Northwest Journey Across Four Provinces (Gansu Chapter)
The most beautiful scenery is always on the road. Life is not only about the mundane, but also about poetry and distant places. In the blink of an eye, summer vacation has arrived again, and the pandemic is improving, so a family trip was back on the agenda.
Where to go? As the sole planner, I thought of the Great Northwest, because there are vast gobi deserts, endless yellow sands, grand passes and ancient roads, exotic customs, and an inexhaustible long history.
To avoid the beaten path, I really did my homework. The final route was as follows: fly from Nanchang to Lanzhou, then to Dunhuang; in Dunhuang, hire a car to travel along the Hexi Corridor and have fun; then return to Lanzhou for one day and take a train to Yinchuan; after three days in Yinchuan, fly to Xi'an; finally, fly back to Nanchang from Xi'an. Here I need to explain that I temporarily changed the route in Shaanxi: rent a car at Xianyang Airport to drive to the Terracotta Warriors first, then go straight to Hukou Waterfall; after seeing the waterfall, return to pay homage at the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor; and finally, spend one day in Xi'an. It turned out that this route covered almost the essence of several provinces and is worth recommending.
Many friends care about time and cost. Our family of five spent between 26,000 and 27,000 yuan in total. Air tickets and hotels were booked through Ctrip. Tickets were bought at the scenic spots: two full-price tickets, one half-price student ticket, one senior and one child free. As for the itinerary, we left on the evening of the 15th and returned on the morning of the 28th. According to travel agency calculations, it was 14 days, but actually it was 12 days.
Lanzhou, known in ancient times as "Jincheng," was historically a meeting point of Central Plains culture and Western Regions culture. Now Lanzhou is more often used as a transit point to the Great Northwest.
The airplane is one of the greatest inventions of the 20th century, greatly shortening the time people spend on long journeys. If airlines could completely solve the chronic problem of flight delays, flying would become the first choice for travel.
Sure enough, the flight from Nanchang to Lanzhou was delayed by more than two hours due to weather, arriving at 10:30 p.m. Fortunately, the pre-booked Taihua Hotel provided free shuttle service, and it was only a few minutes' drive.
Perhaps due to being middle-aged, no matter how late I sleep the night before, I always wake up early the next day. So every time I go to a new place, I enjoy the peace and tranquility in the morning light.
By just after 6 a.m., Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport was already busy. I walked alone on the road, occasionally stopping to watch planes take off and land. Suddenly, a large patch of purple by the roadside caught my eye. In this sparsely populated, hurried place, there was such a patch of flowers blooming independently. Even if no one appreciates them, what does it matter?
"Dunhuang's warriors embrace their swords and weep, the sound of reed pipes from all sides grows urgent." These two lines describe the ancient soldiers' narrow escapes from death on the frontier and their longing for home. As the westernmost of the four Hexi commanderies, Dunhuang's strategic position in ancient times is self-evident. However, today Dunhuang has become a tourist city, where the collision and fusion of Eastern and Western civilizations can be seen everywhere. The first stop of our trip was Dunhuang.
This was my first time choosing Spring Airlines. The tickets were cheap but had no free checked baggage allowance, which I had been hesitant about. Fortunately, it went smoothly; after weighing the luggage on site, I could buy the allowance online, which was cheaper than at the airport.
Without going to the Northwest, you don't realize how vast our country is. Lanzhou to Dunhuang is over 1,000 kilometers. When the plane landed, the pick-up staff from Dunhuang Hotel were already waiting. Sure enough, it's a well-known star-rated hotel with very attentive and warm service, and the car was also new. Along the way, looking out the window, I couldn't help but think of Mao Dun's essay "Praise of the White Poplar." Southern trees are graceful and swaying, while the white poplars of the Northwest are straight and sturdy.
In summer in Dunhuang, 4 p.m. is the hottest time of the day. We rested a bit at the hotel. For a city with such a long history, the museum is its epitome—how could we not go? The Dunhuang Museum has a very distinctive design, combining the Great Wall, beacon towers, and castles. Although the collection cannot compare with the Gansu Provincial Museum, it is still worth an hour or two for museum enthusiasts.
Food is the priority of the people. I have never liked "budget travel." Travel itself is a hard thing; only by traveling well, staying well, and eating well can you have fun. Beautiful scenery and delicious food must both be obtained. In Dunhuang, you must eat lamb, and the best way is hand-grabbed lamb. A few minutes' walk from the museum is "Fan Ji Jingyuan Lamb Restaurant." The storefront is not big, but the hand-grabbed lamb was the best of the whole trip, and other dishes were also good. The key was that the price was not expensive. Our whole family was full of praise.
The sun here is very diligent, not 'off duty' until nearly 10 p.m., so going to Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring after dinner was just the right time. One of the most criticized things about domestic travel is expensive tickets. The adult ticket for Mingsha Mountain is 110 yuan, and it's just the entrance fee. All activities inside cost extra. If you're a big spender, help yourself.
Upon entering, the first thing that came into view were endless sand mountains, up to a hundred meters high, with camel caravans shuttling back and forth. There are three ways to get from the entrance to Crescent Moon Spring: walking, taking an electric cart, or riding a camel. Most tourists choose the latter. Since we were here, we had to experience it. Riding a camel costs 100 yuan per person. Children under six ride with an adult for an extra 20 yuan, as a tip for the camel. The "ships of the desert" walked steadily along the repetitive route, slowly. I wonder if they ever get bored. Powered paragliders and helicopters flew overhead from time to time. We are not big spenders, so we didn't try them. Along the way, yellow sand and ancient roads, the somewhat monotonous sound of camel bells echoed in our ears, while our eyes were filled with the golden sand shining in the sunset. The camel caravan stopped at three spots, where staff offered to take photos for tourists. 20 yuan per person. I thought it was worth the money.
The camel ride lasted about an hour, ending at Crescent Moon Spring. In fact, the current Crescent Moon Spring is artificially maintained; otherwise, it would have dried up long ago, although many beautiful legends surround it. After getting off the camel and walking forward, you can see that due to the angle, the spring and the surrounding sand dunes are almost the same color, making it hard to distinguish sand from water. At that moment, I thought, "A great reputation often falls short of reality." Then I met a photographer carrying a tripod. Upon asking, I learned that the best place to photograph Crescent Moon Spring is on the sand mountains on both sides, and the angle of sunlight is needed to capture the green water effect. Although the sand mountains were not very high, climbing them with hands and feet required a lot of energy. The elderly and children said they would rather play in the sand at the foot of the mountain, so only I managed to climb halfway up and took a few unsatisfactory photos.
A happy day always passes quickly. I looked forward to tomorrow's Mogao Caves and the West Route.
The vast Northwest has scattered attractions and inconvenient transportation. The best way to travel is to hire a car. Although the cost is higher, you can arrange your own time and route, and the driver also serves as a half guide. Our family hired a divine car, a GL8, for three days along the Hexi Corridor—Dunhuang, Jiayuguan, Zhangye—for 2,800 yuan.
The biggest advantage of not joining a tour group is freedom. We booked B-class tickets for today's Mogao Caves at 9 a.m. (Mogao Caves tickets are divided into A, B, and C categories. In peak season, you must book in advance. Search the WeChat public account 'Mogao Caves Visit Reservation'). Driver Xiao Yu picked us up at the hotel at the agreed time. About 10 kilometers later, we arrived at the scenic area parking lot. Note that this is only the parking lot; you need to take the scenic area bus for several kilometers to reach the real destination.
The Mogao Caves, also known as the Thousand Buddha Grottoes, were first built in the Eastern Jin Dynasty and took over a thousand years to complete. They are a world-renowned Buddhist cultural holy site, and their cave art is a human miracle. The well-known 'Flying Apsaras' originate from here.
Our B-class ticket had a specific route, including four caves. Along the way from the entrance, there is a river called 'Dangquan.' It is said to be a river, but now only a dry, exposed riverbed remains. People can only vaguely imagine how it once flowed. Later, Xiao Yu told us that the river had been artificially diverted due to concerns about damage to the caves on the banks.
After crossing a bridge, a row of caves appeared before us. Continuing along the path, soon a magnificent building caught our eyes: the 'Nine-Story Tower.' It is the tallest building in Mogao, also called the 'Great Buddha Hall,' housing the world's largest indoor clay statue of the Maitreya Buddha, but unfortunately it is not open to us.
The number of visitors per cave is strictly limited. Tourists must wait in line; only after the previous group finishes can the next group enter. Crowded and bustling, we moved with the crowd, visiting four caves, listening to explanations, and marveling at the exquisite murals. The Mogao Caves have had a turbulent history, especially since the late Qing Dynasty, suffering countless thefts and damages. Without the protection and restoration by generations of Mogao people like Fan Jinshi, they would have been in ruins by now.
Dunhuang's attractions are generally divided into the East Route and the West Route. Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring, the Mogao Caves, and Yulin Caves and Suoyang City in Guazhou County belong to the East Route. The West Route includes the Yardang Ghost City, Yumen Pass, and Yang Pass.
As the car drove out of the city, the roadsides became more and more open, with endless black gobi and the mighty Qilian Mountains in the distance. These endless mountains were once natural barriers for the Han agricultural civilization against northern nomadic tribes. The Northwest does not lack resources: photovoltaic power generation, wind power, oil underground, iron ore in the mountains. The only thing missing here is water. It is easy to imagine that without water, how could civilization survive and thrive?
On the way to Yardang, we passed Yumen Pass. 'Why should the Qiang flute complain about the willows? The spring wind never crosses Yumen Pass.' Due to time, we did not enter the scenic area, only saw the Xiaofangpan City from afar. After a thousand years, only a pile of yellow earth remains. Continuing on, we passed the Shule River, once rich in water and grass, now dry. What vicissitudes has it experienced?
Yardang Ghost City is located 180 kilometers northwest of Dunhuang in the vast gobi. It is famous for its yardang landforms. It is called 'Ghost City' because in Uyghur, yardang landforms are called 'Sayitankexi,' meaning ghost city. But I think another reason is that these various mounds, when the wind blows, make howling sounds like ghosts and wolves, which ancient people had no explanation for, so they attributed it to ghosts. The ticket for Yardang is 50 yuan, which is normal, but the 70 yuan for the sightseeing car is unbelievable. It's only a few kilometers, making one wonder where that high fare goes. The scenic area is divided into South and North zones. The sightseeing car only goes to the South Zone; to go to the North Zone, you have to hire a separate off-road vehicle for 400 yuan. I felt helpless about this.
The sightseeing car stops at four photo spots: Golden Lion Welcoming Guests, Sphinx, Peacock Standing Erect, and West Sea Fleet. Here, earth mounds stand in rows with gullies crisscrossing. After millions of years of wind and sand erosion and rain carving, this unique landform has formed. Rather than viewing scenery, it's more about imagining scenery, because what you see needs association and imagination to explore its essence; otherwise, it's just a tick-the-box visit. All in all, if not for the annoying 70 yuan car fare, it's worth a visit.
'To urge you to drink another cup of wine, west of Yang Pass there are no old friends.' The Yang Pass ruins are located 60 kilometers west of Dunhuang, and 130 kilometers from Yardang Ghost City. Near the scenic area is a small town called 'Yang Pass Town,' with a few scattered households, mostly farm stays. The food is not expensive. Most West Route tours stop here for a meal.
Yang Pass was once an important town on the Silk Road. With the change of times, only the beacon tower from that era remains; everything else is imitation ancient buildings built in recent years. Entering the scenic area, the first thing that catches the eye is a huge statue of Zhang Qian, riding a fine horse, holding a tally, with a bright gaze and determined expression. Thinking back, Zhang Qian was ordered by Emperor Wu of Han to go on a diplomatic mission to the Western Regions, opening the Silk Road, connecting the Central Plains with the Western Regions and even West Asia and Europe. He was full of spirit and had great achievements. After the Yang Pass Museum, on a mound a few hundred meters away, is the remaining beacon tower site. You can take an electric cart or walk. The mound standing on the hilltop is the ancient beacon tower. It has stood guard silently for a thousand years, with marks of time carved on it like knife cuts and axe strokes. Time can take away many things, but not memories.
We returned to the hotel after 10 p.m. 'Flying Apsaras dream has lasted a thousand years.' Today was a trip through time, a journey carrying history, heavy and profound.
To strengthen control over the Western Regions, Emperor Wu of the Western Han 'set up four commanderies and built two passes' along the Hexi Corridor. The four commanderies were Jiuquan, Wuwei, Zhangye, and Dunhuang; the two passes were Yang Pass and Yumen Pass. Today, we would travel along the Hexi Corridor to Jiayuguan, passing through Yulin Caves and Suoyang City in Guazhou County.
Yulin Caves, also known as the Ten Thousand Buddha Gorge, are named for being carved into the cliffs on both sides of the Yulin River. Their style is similar to the Mogao Caves and they are also under the jurisdiction of the Dunhuang Academy. They are about 160 kilometers from Dunhuang city, a drive of about two and a half hours. This is a lesser-known attraction; tour groups don't come here, but that doesn't mean it's not valuable. I felt that the travel experience at Yulin Caves was better than at Mogao.
When we arrived, the large parking lot was almost empty, with only a few cars. Beautiful scenery, few people, and cheap tickets—two adults and one student cost only 100 yuan. Unlike many scenic spots that rope off areas miles away and force tourists to take sightseeing cars, this was not the case.
Descending a few dozen steps along a passageway, we reached the river. The cliffs on both sides were densely covered with caves of various sizes. Currently, only one side is open to tourists; the other side across the river is undeveloped and for research only. The riverside was shaded by green trees, giving a refreshing coolness even in summer. Including us, there were only about a dozen tourists. Following the guide, we climbed up and visited five caves. Although Yulin Caves and Mogao Caves share the same origin, there is a big difference: the passageways inside each cave are much longer than those in Mogao. This design reduces the impact of natural factors. Also, due to Mogao's fame, Yulin is much less known, so it has avoided much human damage. Because of these two reasons, the statues and murals in Yulin Caves are better preserved. As the saying goes, 'a loss may turn out to be a gain.'
Suoyang City, originally named 'Kuyu City,' legend says that in the early Tang Dynasty, General Xue Rengui was ordered to conquer the west and was besieged here. The army had no food inside and no reinforcements outside. Just when they were at their wit's end, while digging for grass roots to eat, they discovered parasitically growing Suoyang (a plant resembling a radish), which sustained them until reinforcements arrived. In gratitude for the life-saving Suoyang, Xue Rengui renamed Kuyu City to Suoyang City.
Today's Suoyang City has long succumbed to time. The remaining ruins seem to tell of past glories. At the entrance, a large screen plays a video. Tourists can sit and learn about Suoyang City's past and present.
Taking the sightseeing car into the scenic area, the first thing we saw was a beacon tower site. The arched opening told us that there was once a military camp here, but now it is almost buried in tamarisk bushes. The car didn't stop here; it could only be viewed from afar.
Continuing on, we arrived at the Dianjiangtai (Reviewing Terrace), the highest point of the city. Climbing up and leaning on the railing to look into the distance, the outline of the city was faintly discernible. Outside the city, there were well-preserved farmland irrigation systems. 'Dark clouds over Qinghai, snow on the dark mountains; a lone city far off sees Yumen Pass.' Wang Changling's poem 'Out of the Pass' vividly describes the frontier scene. But few people know that the 'lone city' in the poem refers to this barren land beneath our feet.
The last stop was the Tar Temple ruins, located about one kilometer east of the city. It was originally a place for sacrificial ceremonies. Now only one pagoda remains. Walking around it, we noticed traces of human destruction. According to the guide, this was left by people who stole Buddhist scriptures, showing that greed made many lose their reverence. It is known that when the monk Xuanzang went to India to retrieve scriptures, he gave lectures here for over half a month. Thinking of the demeanor of the holy monk, how could one know that future generations would desecrate it like this? Sad and lamentable, human ignorance and greed have reached such an extent.
Suoyang City is very close to Yulin Caves, only 50 kilometers, so they can be visited together. From Suoyang to today's destination Jiayuguan is over 260 kilometers. Thus we stayed overnight in Jiayuguan City at the Jiugang Hotel (a four-star hotel under Jiuquan Iron and Steel Group, very cost-effective and recommended).
Today is July 19. The plan was to visit Jiayuguan in the morning, drive over 210 kilometers after lunch to visit Zhangye's Colorful Danxia and Binggou Danxia. In fact, Binggou Danxia was not visited due to time constraints. Then we were dropped off at the city hotel, ending the three-day car hire.
Jiayuguan was once the western terminus of the Ming Great Wall, known as the 'First Grand Pass Under Heaven.' Today, Jiayuguan is both a city—home to three major state-owned enterprises: Jiugang, Datang, and CNNC—and a famous Great Wall cultural tourism area. Jiayuguan scenic area is divided into three parts: the Pass, the Hanging Great Wall, and the 'First Mound Under Heaven.' A combined ticket costs 120 yuan. The three spots are far apart and require self-transport.
Our first stop was Jiayuguan Pass. It connects the Hanging Great Wall to the north and the First Mound to the south, with the reputation of being the 'throat of the Hexi Corridor.' The current pass has been restored and renovated based on the remaining Ming Dynasty structures to restore its original appearance as much as possible.
Viewing the pass from afar, it is magnificent. Back then, it made enemies tremble and dare not cross easily. Walking under the gate tower, it felt even more majestic. The agricultural civilization relied on the Great Wall to resist nomadic incursions. People at that time carried and lifted, building this great pass. The greatness of human effort is admirable. The pass consists of an outer city and an inner city. To the right of the entrance is a forest of steles, erected by various dynasties to record related events. Continue forward, you can walk under the wall or climb up via steps or horse ramps. Holding the battlements and looking into the distance, beyond the pass was the battlefield. 'Pity the bones by the Wuding River, still in the dreams of spring boudoir women.' War is cruel; we should cherish today's peace.
The next stop, the Hanging Great Wall, is on the Black Mountain eight kilometers north of the pass. Because the wall descends steeply from the mountain, appearing like an inverted Great Wall hanging in the air, it is called 'Hanging Wall.' From afar, it looks steeply into the clouds. Truly a 'dangerous' sight. It must have been extremely difficult to build. 'One who fails to reach the Great Wall is not a true man.' We were determined to climb it. My elderly mother couldn't manage and waited at the foot. My four-year-old son took the lead, bravely going forward. Truly a hero from youth; we all felt inferior and admitted defeat. At the top of the Great Wall, looking around, a feeling of dominating the world and having no equal arose in my heart.
The last stop was the 'First Mound Under Heaven,' built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. It was the first beacon tower at the western end of the Great Wall, built along the Taolai River, standing on a vertical bank over 50 meters high, difficult even for monkeys to climb. A sightseeing car is needed here, costing 12 yuan, same for young and old. Today, the mound is just a low pile of earth. Without historical knowledge, it can feel boring.
After lunch, we drove for over three hours and finally arrived at Zhangye's Colorful Danxia scenic area. It was already after 5 p.m. I understood that Binggou Danxia was impossible. Well, since we were here, we would make the best of it. Imperfection is also a form of beauty.
Danxia is a kind of landform, and Zhangye's Colorful Danxia is a standout. The scenic area is famous for its colorful and majestic appearance, especially under the morning or evening sun, shining and brilliant.
The ticket including the sightseeing car is 74 yuan for adults. There are four viewing platforms for visitors to stop and take photos. Platform No. 1 is the largest, No. 2 is the highest for a panoramic view, and No. 3 shows the famous 'Five-Streaked Pork.' Each requires climbing up along boardwalks. Just two days ago we saw yardang landforms; today's danxia is completely different. This is a feast of light and shadow, and no words can describe the visual impact. Like Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring, the scenic area also offers helicopters, powered paragliders, and hot air balloons. However, the balloons here can only go up and down on the spot, about ten meters high, not worth recommending.
Leaving Colorful Danxia, we were still intoxicated by the stunning scenery, wanting more. Driver Xiao Yu dutifully took us to the Danxia Hotel. We waved goodbye. Thank you for the three days of company and explanations.
Zhangye got its name from 'Extending the Arm of Zhangye to Reach the Western Regions.' Since ancient times, it has been called 'Golden Zhangye, Silver Wuwei.' Today, Zhangye is also a nationally famous seed production base.
Zhangye is not a big city. Housing prices are half of those in neighboring Wuwei, probably due to a smaller population. The Danxia Hotel we stayed at was rated 4-diamond by Ctrip. The facilities were average, but it was in the center of the old city, close to the Wooden Pagoda Temple and Giant Buddha Temple, both within walking distance.
In the morning, my mother and I walked out of the hotel and reached the central square in two or three minutes. It was already bustling with activity: young people playing basketball, ladies dancing square dances, elderly walking and practicing tai chi—almost all locals. Standing majestically on one side of the square was the Wooden Pagoda Temple. As the name suggests, this high pagoda is made of wood. Strangely, it has no nails or rivets; it is entirely connected by dougongs, beams, and pillars. What surprised me even more was a large group of unknown birds circling the pagoda without leaving, chirping incessantly. All things have spirits. Could the birds have been enlightened by Buddhism?
Leaving the Wooden Pagoda Temple and walking a few minutes, we entered a tree-lined street called 'Giant Buddha Temple Lane.' Zhangye's Giant Buddha Temple houses the largest indoor clay reclining Buddha in China. It was once the national guardian temple of the Western Xia Dynasty, with a prominent history. Entering the temple, the first thing that came into view was the Giant Buddha Hall, where the reclining statue of Sakyamuni in nirvana is enshrined. The giant Buddha is lifelike with a solemn appearance. Behind the hall are the Hall of Ten Thousand Saints and the Sutra Library, and a tall white pagoda that catches the eye—probably a Buddhist pagoda. Adjacent to the Giant Buddha Temple is another scenic spot worth seeing: the 'Shanxi Guild Hall,' which bears witness to the glory of Shanxi merchants during the Ming and Qing dynasties. I especially want to thank my friend for the warm hospitality. Not only did he treat us to the famous 'Three Cannon Shots' tea of the Northwest, but we also had a great meal at an authentic halal restaurant. We walked in and walked out holding the wall (stuffed), and then he drove us to the high-speed rail station.
