Dunhuang: Integrating Art into Every Inch of Walls
Dunhuang, with its towering dunes in the south, the dry ancient channel of the Shule River in the west, and the blue-white saline wetlands on the Gobi, all possess a kind of magical power that haunts the soul. Perhaps due to ties from a past life, I came to Dunhuang to travel, to pay homage to the ancient Silk Road, to marvel at nature's extraordinary craftsmanship, and every step along the way was steeped in history.
Upon arriving in Dunhuang, the first place to visit was the Mogao Caves. Backpacks, cameras, water, and other items had to be checked in; security was very strict, but visitors could bring their own flashlights to freely view the murals. The guide provided explanations through wireless earphones. The guide would take us to visit ten caves. After the tour, you could actually follow other groups and tune your wireless earphones to the new guide's frequency to continue visiting. Each guide took slightly different caves, so you could visit over thirteen caves in total. I believe anyone who has visited the Mogao Caves will feel it was well worth the trip. The caves are absolutely a beauty of intellectual crystallization, a beauty of historical and cultural creation. Looking at the areas in the murals where lead powder was applied—the faces and skin of figures drawn with lead powder were once white and textured, but now oxidized and turned black—the artistic aura they emit still stirs the heart, giving a sense of traveling through time, as if time itself flowed backward.
Next were Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring.
Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring are 5 kilometers south of Dunhuang city. The mountain gets its name from the sound made when sand moves. The mountain is formed by shifting sands in five colors: red, yellow, green, white, and black. In the Han dynasty, it was called Shajiao Mountain (Sand Horn Mountain), also known as Shensha Mountain (Divine Sand Mountain). In the Wei and Jin dynasties, it was first called Mingsha Mountain (Singing Sand Mountain). The mountain stretches over 40 kilometers from east to west and about 20 kilometers from north to south, with sand ridges connected and winding. Its characteristics: 'Peaks steep, ridges like blades; when horses tread or people run, a deep rumbling sound; light as strings and flutes, heavy as thunder; sand falls under feet, but by morning returns to its original state.' This phenomenon is truly rare in the world. Crescent Moon Spring is encircled by Mingsha Mountain, shaped like a crescent moon, hence its name. In ancient times, it was called Shajing (Sand Well), also Yaoquan (Medicine Spring), and once mistakenly called Wowa Pond. In the Qing dynasty, it was officially named Crescent Moon Spring. For thousands of years, the sand mountain has embraced the spring, and the spring reflects the sand mountain, like a smooth and bright jade inlaid in the deep valley of the sand mountain. 'Wind carries sand and makes it fly and roar; the spring reflects the moon and remains dust-free.' Only a few dozen meters separate the shifting sand from the spring, yet even in strong winds, the spring is not buried by sand. Located in the Gobi desert, the spring water remains clear and never dries up. This 'sand and water coexisting, mountain and spring together' landscape is indeed a wonder. An ancient poem sings: 'Vast clear sky azure blue, peerless beauty Crescent Moon Spring. Silver mountains surround on all sides, a pool of clear water with green ripples!' It makes one linger and forget to return. For someone like me who has long lived in a steel-and-concrete city, this place felt like a tale from the Arabian Nights.
Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring are like twin sisters in the vast desert. 'The mountain, by its spirit, sings; the water, by its magic, becomes more beautiful.' Whether viewing from the mountaintop or strolling by the spring, visitors are captivated and enchanted. Indeed, 'Mingsha Mountain soothes the spirit, Crescent Moon Spring cleanses the heart.' Around Crescent Moon Spring are the towering Mingsha Mountain. On clear days or when people slide down the mountain, it makes sounds, hence the name. Due to the terrain, when the wind blows, sand does not go downhill but moves from the bottom up, so Crescent Moon Spring is never buried by sand, earning it the title of a desert wonder.
During the Wei and Jin dynasties, it was first called Mingsha Mountain. The mountain stretches over 40 kilometers from east to west and about 20 kilometers from north to south, with sand ridges connected and winding. Its characteristics: 'Peaks steep, ridges like blades; when horses tread or people run, a deep rumbling sound; light as strings and flutes, heavy as thunder; sand falls under feet, but by morning returns to its original state.' This phenomenon is truly rare in the world.
Later, I went to watch the large-scale desert live performance 'Dunhuang Grand Ceremony.' When I entered, I realized it was an open-air performance, and the setting was actually in the desert—truly living up to its name as a desert live show. As the performance began, the audience seats were also 360° movable, shifting with each scene. This design was truly unique. The storyline of the performance was also to my liking. I could even feel the helplessness of the painter and the princess. The past events in the world always go contrary to wishes. Some are trapped by the responsibilities they bear, others are hindered by their own desires, but all these worldly matters fade with time. What remains are these cave murals, as if singing in praise, as if murmuring in resentment. What the real stories behind these caves and murals are, we can never know. We can only try to find traces of the past from these fragmented artifacts.
South of Dunhuang, crossing the Dangjin Pass leads to Qinghai. West of the Dangjin Pass are the Altun Mountains, to the east are the Qilian Mountains. During my days in Dunhuang, looking south, I could see snowy mountains on the horizon. The snowy mountains seemed like a holy realm in the sky, giving the impression of floating celestial peaks. The beauty of Dunhuang's scenery requires appreciation and discovery, making one savor every step.
