2020 Self-Drive Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop: Journey to the Northwest, Captivated by Its Breathtaking Scenery!
The song 'Qinghai-Tibet Plateau' has traveled far and wide, singing of the blue skies and beautiful mountains of the Northwest, and it also awakened my longing for the Northwest!
'The desert sand is like snow, the Yanshan moon like a hook.' 'A solitary smoke straight in the vast desert, the setting sun round over the long river'... These popular poems depict the vast land of the Northwest in such a poetic and picturesque way, how could one not yearn for it day and night?
I had long thought of self-driving in the Northwest, but it had never materialized because our little princess Doudou was young and we worried about altitude sickness. This summer vacation, since many places were inaccessible due to the epidemic, we decided on the Northwest trip.
Without going to the Northwest, you would never know how beautiful China's mountains and rivers are! If the beauty of Jiangnan is delicate, then the beauty of the Northwest is majestic! Cloudless blue skies, grasslands dotted with cattle and sheep; vast turquoise lakes, endless yellow sands; desolate Gobi, the uncanny workmanship of Danxia; towering snow-capped mountains, colorful flower seas. To put it without exaggeration, in the Northwest, every glance is a scenic view, every snapshot is a masterpiece.
The self-drive journey in the Northwest: scenery along the way, laughter along the way, a lifetime of memories!
Ever since we had Doudou, every trip requires meticulous preparation to ensure smoothness and comfort on the road. This time was no exception. Before departure, we planned many things in advance such as hotels, transportation, and attraction arrangements.
About food: The Northwest mainly features beef and mutton, with staples like noodles and rice. In fact, as long as you are not too picky, you can get used to it.
About accommodation: Before departure, we always worried about poor lodging, but later found our worries were unnecessary. As long as you don't demand five or six stars.
About transportation: The road conditions on the Northwest Grand Loop are generally very good. As long as you have some driving experience, you can self-drive. No off-roading needed, and there are no restrictions on vehicle type.
About altitude sickness: Everyone may experience it to some degree. As long as you don't run or rush in fatigue, there won't be major problems.
About weather: The temperature difference in the Northwest is large. Sunny days are like summer, no sun is like autumn, and rain is like winter. So it's necessary to bring one or two thick clothes for warmth.
About the itinerary schedule for the Grand Loop: Based on this self-drive trip, if traveling with children or elderly, it is recommended to arrange 11–12 days for the best experience.
On August 7, morning in Xining: Overcast sky, light rain. We had a comfortable breakfast at the hotel, then drove to Xining Caojiabao Airport to meet with Tongtong's family. In the car, Doudou was very happy because she was about to see her good friend.
The two little ones met at the airport and immediately forgot about their parents, chattering about their own happy things. By noon, we arrived at our first scenic spot of the day: the Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Si).
Kumbum Monastery was founded in the 12th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (1379), with a history of over 600 years. It is the Buddhist center and holy place of the Gelug sect in the Northwest. The entire temple is built on the mountain, winding and undulating, well-proportioned and majestic. Inside, ancient trees reach the sky, pagodas stand in numbers, and the scenery is extraordinarily magnificent.
Standing at the foot of the mountain, the summit was shrouded in mist, and the monastery in the rain appeared even more mysterious and solemn. Entering the monastery, the atmosphere was solemn and the pilgrims devout. We visited each main hall one by one, trying to learn as much as possible about the temple's history. Passing by the prayer wheels outside the main hall, we followed Tibetan Buddhist etiquette, turning the wheels and chanting mantras, praying for ourselves and our families!
Not long after leaving Kumbum Monastery, the rain stopped and the sun showed its smiling face. The two moms happily shouted, 'We are so lucky!' At this time, the scenery on both sides of the road was very beautiful. Distant mountains were shrouded in mist, through which the sunlight pierced, emitting colorful rays, while below the mountains, the pasture was green and the barley golden yellow. On the grassland, cattle and sheep grazed leisurely; in the sky, colorful prayer flags fluttered in the wind. The land seemed adorned with exquisite oil paintings. If not for being in the Northwest, one might mistakenly think they were in Jiangnan. After more than an hour of winding mountain roads, crossing Laji Mountain, we arrived at Riyue Mountain (Sun and Moon Mountain).
Riyue Mountain is named for witnessing the love story of Princess Wencheng's marriage to the Western Regions. Although history is distant, Riyue Mountain still tells this tale. At this time, although it was summer in August in the Northwest, the wind at Riyue Mountain was still cool.
After changing clothes, we headed to the summit, climbing the boardwalk steps. The first things to catch our eyes were the prayer flags swaying in the wind and the spinning prayer wheels. Beneath the prayer flags were colorful mani stones. Standing on this sacred land and looking up, the pure and flawless Princess Wencheng seemed to walk gracefully from the Tang-Tubo Ancient Road, introducing the scenery of the Western Regions to visitors. At the top of Riyue Mountain, the sky was high and wide, the wind light and clouds thin, with beautiful sights stretching boundlessly in all directions.
Descending from Riyue Mountain, we continued towards Qinghai Lake. Along the way, we passed Daotang River and Heima River but did not stop due to time. Soon, a huge blue mirror appeared on the right side of the road—that was the beautiful Qinghai Lake. On both sides of the road, blooming rapeseed flowers glowed golden. In the fields, men and women in colorful clothes competed in beauty. At this time, a light drizzle began to fall, so we had to retreat and head to the hotel.
The next morning, the sun kept jumping out from the clouds and then hiding back, as if playing peek-a-boo with us. Fortunately, the rain had stopped. According to plan, we set out for the Erlangjian Scenic Area at Qinghai Lake.
Perhaps our luck was overflowing, or maybe the sun got tired of playing. When we arrived at the scenic area, the sky was cloudless and sunny, and our mood greatly improved. We quickly bought tickets and rushed in, heading towards the picturesque Qinghai Lake.
Qinghai Lake, anciently called 'West Sea,' is said to be a gift from the Dragon King to his fourth son. It is the largest inland lake in China and also the largest saltwater lake. Some say that if the beauty of Qinghai is 10 points, Qinghai Lake alone accounts for 7 points. Every July and August is the most beautiful time at Qinghai Lake, and we were fortunate to catch its finest season.
Standing by the lake, the vast azure expanse was scattered with golden yellow, making Qinghai Lake look like a carefully adorned bride awaiting the cheers and screams of guests. We decided to take a luxury cruise to get up close with Qinghai Lake. As we sailed on the lake, the misty waters stretched endlessly, merging with the sky. Wildflowers on distant mountains dotted the lush grasslands, where herds of cattle and sheep were plump and strong—a true pastoral idyll! Qinghai Lake was so vast that being there, your mind opened up like the lake, and all distractions were washed away by the lake water, leaving you feeling incredibly light.
By noon, reluctantly, we left Qinghai Lake and continued towards Caka Lake. Although we left, the blue of Qinghai Lake was forever etched in our memories. After a two-and-a-half-hour drive, we arrived at Caka Lake at 4 p.m. Caka Salt Lake is known as China's 'Mirror of the Sky' and was listed by National Geographic Traveler as one of the '55 places you must visit in your lifetime.' If you love photography, you must come to Caka Salt Lake.
We boarded a retro small train, and with the 'click-clack' sound, we began our tour of Caka Lake. The first thing we saw was a group of exquisite salt sculptures, said to be the world's largest salt sculpture group, still expanding. Further ahead was the Mirror of the Sky: a vast expanse of white that, if you weren't careful, you'd mistake for a snowy northern land. The water here was shallow and calm, perfect for taking reflections. When the moms arrived, their feet seemed glued to the spot; they took photos frantically until the sun set and the scenic area closed.
We left Caka Lake around 9 p.m., checked into the hotel, filled our stomachs in Caka Town, and ended a wonderful day's journey in joy.
On the third day, the itinerary was the most relaxed, with only the Emerald Lake scenic spot. We slept in lazily, had breakfast at the hotel, and drove to Dachaidan. As soon as we entered the expressway, we were stopped by a traffic police officer. Just as we were confused and pulling out our driver's licenses, the officer handed us a highway safety driving notice, telling us to prioritize safety. Our hearts felt so warm and grateful!
From Caka to Dachaidan, we passed through the Qaidam Basin. At times, rolling mountains like ink paintings; at times, barren, lifeless land; at times, trains speeding by; at times, herds of cattle and sheep chasing and playing. Five hours of driving, five hours of spectacular scenery. By 3 p.m., we arrived in Dachaidan.
Dachaidan Town is like an oasis in the Gobi—exquisite and tranquil. Most daily necessities here are supplied from outside. After checking into the hotel, we had lunch at the restaurant downstairs. The hotel staff told us it was only a few minutes' drive from the hotel to Emerald Lake, so we rested first to avoid the scorching afternoon sun.
At 5 p.m., we set off and soon reached Emerald Lake. At that time, Emerald Lake was crowded with cars and people; it was hard to take a pure photo.
Emerald Lake is actually a series of mining pits formed over years of salt lake mining by the Dachaidan Chemical Plant. Due to different concentrations of minerals, the lake water appears in various colors such as tender green, deep emerald, azure blue, and pure white, changing unpredictably under sunlight, like scattered emeralds on earth.
On August 10, this was the longest driving day of the trip, with scheduled driving time exceeding 8 hours. If time allowed, we should have arranged this as a two-day itinerary. Adhering to the spirit of 'better to reduce scenic spots than to travel in fatigue,' we did not start early despite the long hours; we kept to our usual routine.
At 9:30, we left Dachaidan Town and soon entered National Highway 315. Beside us was Dachaidan Lake, shrouded in morning mist, its surface shimmering. Early risers on the shore were playing in the water or taking photos; we could only glance and continue.
We sped along G315. On both sides, endless yellow soil, barren and desolate. Here, we truly experienced the solemn and desolate beauty of the Northwest. In fact, the Qaidam Basin is a huge treasure trove, rich in mineral resources beneath the surface.
G315 is known as the Chinese version of Route 66 and has become a famous internet-famous spot for taking road-trip photos on the Grand Loop. We stopped and went, sometimes parking for photos, sometimes climbing high for views. Due to the heavy traffic and many tourists taking pictures, police officers were frequently on hand to maintain traffic and ensure safety. Let me tell you a secret: the best U-shaped section on G315 for photos is at the 787 km marker, where the slopes are long and steep.
After enjoying the road-trip photo session, we arrived at the second scenic spot of the day: Dongtai Jinaier Lake. Dongtai Jinaier Lake is praised as 'China's Maldives,' located right next to G315 and currently undeveloped.
At noon, the sun at Dongtai Jinaier Lake was extremely intense, and the salt crystals on the shore were dazzling white under the strong light. Standing by the lake, looking far out, the clear sky and the Tiffany blue of the lake reflected each other, merging into one. At that moment, your heart seemed to fly in the blue sky and melt into the lake water. You wouldn't think of anything else; you would only sincerely marvel at this timeless beauty, letting your camera click endlessly.
We left Dongtai Jinaier Lake at around 3 p.m. Soon after, we arrived at Water Floating Danxia. Due to time constraints, we briefly 'inspected' the 'South China Sea Fleet' of Water Floating Danxia from G315 and then turned back towards Nanyaxian Danxia.
After driving for about two hours on National Highway 215, we entered the heart of Nanyaxian Danxia. As we approached this magical land, a sense of awe arose. The vast desert, the whistling wind, the endless yellow sand, devoid of life. Although the beauty and curiosity tempted us to go deeper, we dared not step beyond the bounds.
Yadan refers to a peculiar wind-eroded landform, a masterpiece of nature's wind, often called 'Devil City' because it resembles an ancient castle. Nanyaxian is named in memory of eight beautiful female oil workers. In fact, Nanyaxian Yadan is not a very specific scenic spot with clear signs along the way.
To better view the Yadan landforms, we rented a go-kart and went several kilometers off the road. The view was broader and more stunning. We toured there for over an hour. Though we still wanted to see more, the sun was setting, so we had to call it a day.
Driving back from the Yadan, passing through Yuka Service Area, we arrived in Dachaidan at around 9 p.m. Although all vegetables and fruits in Dachaidan are transported from elsewhere, prices were not higher than other places. We ordered big plate chicken, a few side dishes, some lamb skewers, and drank iced cola, relaxed and happy, forgetting all the fatigue of the journey.
On the morning of August 11, it was drizzling. We set off in the rain, passed through Yuka Service Area, and entered the Liuge Expressway. The straight road stretched to the sky, endless, with barren sand dunes and vast Gobi on both sides. After leaving the expressway, we continued on G215, crossed Dangjin Mountain, and entered Gansu Province. After dozens of kilometers of continuous downhill, we arrived at the first scenic spot of the day: Oil Town.
Oil Town is the old county seat of Akesai. As oil resources dried up and the city developed, this place was abandoned, leaving only some old buildings and facilities. This forgotten little town, abandoned for years, came back into public view with the popularity of the movie 'The Ghouls' (also known as Monster Hunt), which filmed there. Overall, the town has no special attractions; the leftover movie props are the main content.
After a quick visit to Oil Town, we continued forward. The scenery on both sides changed dramatically: the rolling mountains were replaced by endless yellow sand. From Oil Town to Dunhuang, the distance was actually short. We thought we'd have plenty of time for the kids to ride camels and play in the sand at Mingsha Mountain, but unfortunately, due to various speed limits in Gansu, we could only crawl forward. Rushing all the way, we finally arrived at Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring at 5 p.m.
Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring are known as 'one of the unique sights beyond the Great Wall,' where mountain and spring coexist, sand and water live together, like a millennia-old couple, lovingly accompanying each other, never abandoning. Mingsha Mountain is a favorite for kids: camel riding, sand sliding, off-road vehicles...
We quickly bought tickets and entered the park to enjoy this special time. First, we rode camels – our first time ever. The camels didn't look very cute: big flat mouths, heavy breathing, big eyes with tears, as if complaining about their hard work. Doudou and her mom rode the smallest camel. Though small, when it stood up, it was quite tall, making Doudou exclaim 'Ah!' Walking in the desert, though there was no clear ringing of camel bells, the journey was filled with laughter. The camel swayed as it walked; Doudou said it was like a cradle from childhood. The large camel caravan, walking in the afterglow of the setting sun, had become a unique sight at Mingsha Mountain.
After the camel ride, we arrived at the center of the park. The two little friends couldn't wait to rush into the desert. They slid and climbed, and we wondered how they found so much fun in the hot sand. They played from the bottom to the top of the mountain, from daylight to dark, covered in yellow sand, laughing heartily. Perhaps in the world of childhood, there is nothing but joy.
The next day, to reach Jiayuguan by the afternoon, we booked Category A tickets for the Mogao Caves at 8:45 a.m. So we made an exception and got up early. First, we went to the Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Center and watched two short films about the Mogao Caves. Though brief, they were very impressive. From the films, we learned about the origin of the Mogao Caves and saw several representative cave murals. The Mogao Caves, commonly known as the Thousand Buddha Caves, were founded by the monk Le Zun. While traveling, he saw a golden light shining from Mingsha Mountain, so he stopped, dug a cave, and began to practice Buddhism. From then on, emperors, generals, commoners, and countless others followed, starting a thousand-year artistic movement of carving caves and creating Buddhist statues. Visiting the Mogao Caves is like experiencing a thousand-year uninterrupted feast of art!
Led by a guide from the scenic area, we independently visited 8 caves with our Category A tickets. The guide explained in detail the differences in Buddha statues and murals from various periods, and also told stories like the Nine-Colored Deer King, Prince Mahasattva sacrificing himself to feed a tiger, and the reverse pipa. We also learned that the scarf used by women and the word 'Feitian' (flying celestial) in the 'Feitian' engineering project originated from the Mogao Caves murals. A short visit was a vivid art lesson.
After visiting the Mogao Caves, we were supposed to watch the large-scale situational drama 'Farewell, Dunhuang.' Due to time constraints, we left Dunhuang with regret and headed for Jiayuguan. After driving for about an hour, we turned into Guazhou Service Area. We had long heard of the sweetness of Guazhou melons. We parked at a stall run by two sisters. As soon as we entered, the beautiful boss lady cut open a big watermelon and offered it to us for free. Seeing how much we enjoyed it, she cut open a white melon. The boss's warmth and generosity resulted in the two moms buying bag after bag of products. Satisfied, we left Guazhou and arrived in Jiayuguan in the evening.
On August 13, after breakfast at the hotel, we went to Jiayuguan. Jiayuguan is the westernmost pass of the Ming Great Wall. Due to its strategic location and magnificent architecture, it is known as the 'First Grand Pass Under Heaven.'
'The Great Wall is high, level with white clouds; stepping on the perilous tower, thousands of battlements seem low. Locking the nine border passes connecting the northern desert, a handful of mud secures the four commanderies of Anxi.' Approaching the gate tower, you are awed by the tall and magnificent city walls, and you can feel the momentum of 'one man can hold the pass against ten thousand.' Climbing the tower and looking into the distance, the Great Wall stretches across the Gobi, as if seeing the ancient battlefield with thousands of horses neighing. It is said that after the Jiayuguan section of the Great Wall was built, there were no more wars here, showing the immense deterrence of the pass and the Great Wall!
Despite the extreme heat, the two children watched very attentively. Each held a voice interpreter, looking and listening, and at each scenic spot, they even acted as little guides for us.
After visiting Jiayuguan, we had to leave the Overhanging Great Wall and the First Pier of the Great Wall for next time. We quickly set off for Zhangye Danxia. After a three-hour drive, at 4 p.m., we arrived at the north gate of the Rainbow Danxia.
Rainbow Danxia is famous for its steep cliffs, majestic momentum, peculiar shapes, and brilliant colors. Some say God overturned his palette; others say the earth put on a colorful neon dress. Rainbow Danxia is not only renowned in China but also famous abroad! In 2011, it was rated by National Geographic as one of the 'Top Ten Magical Geographic Wonders of the World'; in 2013, it was selected by the Huffington Post as one of the '22 Most Unforgettable Scenic Spots in the World' and 'China's Rainbow Mountain'; in 2015, it was chosen as one of the '25 Dream Travel Destinations in the World'; and in 2017, it was chosen as the 'Most Beautiful Filming Location' at the 74th Venice Film Festival.
We bought a deep-tour package, boarded a dedicated tour bus with a professional guide, and headed deep into the Danxia area. Even though we had seen many beautiful pictures of Rainbow Danxia online, when you actually enter the scenic area and witness this natural wonder with your own eyes, you feel that the beauty of Rainbow Danxia is beyond words.
We took all kinds of photos and looked everywhere, trying to capture all this beauty in our minds and cameras. As the park was about to close, we left the Danxia scenic area in the twilight.
Time flew. It was already August 14. First, we went to Biandukou Eco-Leisure Tourism Area. By August, the rapeseed flowers at Biandukou had mostly withered, but the plateau scenery was still very beautiful! We did some simple horse riding, took photos at the observation deck, and then set off for Zhuol Mountain Scenic Area in Qilian.
From Biandukou to Zhuol Mountain, after passing through Biandukou Canyon, we entered the Qilian Grassland. On both sides of the road, green grass shaded the area, flowers covered the ground, white clouds danced in the sky, and cattle and sheep grazed in the pastures. At 5 p.m., we arrived at Zhuol Mountain Scenic Area. Standing on the observation deck, you felt as if you were in a series of exquisite landscape oil paintings. In the distance, the Qilian Mountains were covered in snow, under the sunlight, they appeared colorful. Below the Qilian Mountains, the vast grassland seemed like a green carpet, and the green of the grassland and the red of the Danxia complemented each other beautifully. At the foot of the mountain, Babao Town lay quietly by the Babao River like a paradise, while the S-shaped highway stretched across the grassland like a ribbon. Opposite Zhuol Mountain was Niuxin Mountain. Legend says that Zhuol Mountain and Niuxin Mountain are a pair of deeply affectionate lovers, silently guarding the two banks of the Babao River, protecting the land of Qilian. Standing on the beacon tower at the top of Zhuol Mountain, you could take in all the beauty of Qilian.
After visiting Zhuol Mountain Scenic Area for nearly three hours, we reluctantly drove to Qilian County town. After checking in and settling our luggage, we found a Chongqing restaurant. The familiar Sichuan dialect and flavors made us raise our glasses, because tomorrow we would end the Grand Loop and return to Xining.
On August 15, the main activity of the day was to let the children gallop on horseback on the Qilian Grassland. In the morning, we had breakfast at the hotel. The hotel breakfast was really sumptuous; if only we had bigger stomachs, we would have eaten plenty of the delicious beef and mutton. After breakfast and check-out, we drove along the Qilian Grassland. Horseback riding on the grassland was a recurring request from the children. Although they had ridden once at Biandukou, it seemed they weren't satisfied. Today, we would let them have full fun on the grassland, riding horses as much as they wanted. Along the way, we went into the pastures of two herder families. The children rode lap after lap. Dressed in bright Tibetan costumes, they mounted the horses and galloped across the green sea, as if they were little heroes of the grassland.
After riding, we went to the Menyuan Yuanshan Observation Deck. The scenery here was very similar to Biandukou: rapeseed flowers and large fields of highland barley. In August, Menyuan hardly had any rapeseed flowers, but the pastoral scenes still made us stop and linger. Standing on the observation deck, the golden highland barley, the distant green mountains, the beautiful villages... Although we didn't see the spectacular golden sea, our eyes were still feasted.
After a brief tour of Menyuan, in the evening of August 15, we returned from Menyuan to Xining. To celebrate the successful conclusion of this self-drive trip, we had a hearty Chongqing hotpot dinner at the bustling Wanda Commercial Plaza in Xining. On August 16, we visited the Xining Plateau Wildlife Zoo to let the children learn more about plateau biology. At 11 p.m., waving goodbye to Xining, we returned to our warm home.
This Grand Loop trip allowed us to experience the vastness of the Northwest, adding more reverence and awe for nature. In just ten days on the Grand Loop, we left the hustle and bustle of the city and embraced nature. We were tired but happy. Along the way, the scenery was too beautiful, the scenic spots too many. Although our schedule was relatively relaxed, we only scratched the surface. We look forward to stepping onto this magical land again.
Travel log directory: 1. Falling in Love with the Northwest 2. Eating, Accommodation, Transportation in the Northwest... 3. Entering the Northwest, Starting from the Solemn Kumbum Monastery 4. A Path of Blue, from Qinghai Lake to Caka Lake 5. Entering the Colorful Emerald Lake 6. Endless Gobi and Soul-Stirring Scenery, from G315 to Nanyaxian Yadan 7. Entering Dunhuang, Feeling the Vast Yellow Sands and Thousand-Year Art 8. Ascending the First Grand Pass, Immersed in Rainbow Danxia 9. Qilian Grassland: A Beautiful South of the Great Wall North of the Great Wall 10. Farewell to the Northwest
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