Read This Guide and Easily Self-Drive the Northwest Grand Loop

In the autumn of 2018, when I first met Ken in Poland, I knew this person would be my lifelong friend. He has some social anxiety, and every sentence he utters requires deep thought, which suits the pace of conversation of a 36-year-old uncle like me who has mild dementia. On that trip, we sat together the whole time, talking about travel, life, and film aesthetics. It felt like pouring out my heart to a gramophone, every sound finding resonance—a wonderful feeling. So after parting, we kept planning our next trip. Ken said he wanted a road trip, full of freedom and individuality, with randomness and surprises, and then the two of us drinking under the stars and chatting about everyday life—just thinking about it makes me excited. Looking at China, there seemed no better place to let the soul fly than the great Northwest. After agreeing on the destination, we hung up the phone, tacitly booked tickets to Xining for the next day, and sent each other screenshots. So the next evening, we were already sleeping at Heima River by Qinghai Lake, a place I had hitchhiked to ten years ago. We had agreed to turn back when we got tired, but neither of us expected this to be a fantastic adventure starting from Xining, deep into the central hinterland of the vast Qaidam Basin, extending all the way to the Hexi Corridor and reaching Yinchuan.

About This Route

This route is an extended version of the traditional Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop, divided into two parts. The first half focuses on the natural scenery of Qinghai Lake and the Qaidam Basin, while the second half emphasizes the cultural landscape of the Hexi Corridor. The first half starts from [Xining], passes through [Tar Temple], circles [Qinghai Lake] and [Chaka Salt Lake], plunges into the uninhabited area of the Qaidam Basin, and follows National Highway G315 to successively visit [Emerald Lake], [Nanbaxian Yardang], [Dongtai Jin'er Lake], [Water Yardang], [Xitai Jin'er Lake], then via Mars Highway No. 1 to [Eboliang Mars Base], finally crossing [Dangjin Mountain Pass] to enter the Taklamakan Desert and reach [Dunhuang] Oasis. The second half starts from [Dunhuang], visits [Mingsha Mountain] and [Mogao Caves], passes through [Jiayuguan] to [Zhangye], exploring along the way [Luotuo City Ruins], [Heishui Kingdom Ruins], [Tianluo City Ruins] and [Matisi Temple Ruins], then takes the most beautiful National Highway G227 back to [Xining], via [Lanzhou], and arrives at the fortress beyond the Great Wall - [Yinchuan].

PS: Among China's five most beautiful national highways, this trip covers two: G315 with the Qaidam Gobi Salt Lake landscape, and G227 with the Qilian Mountain snowy grasslands. The remaining three are G318 (Sichuan-Tibet), G214 (Qinghai-Tibet), and G219 (Xinjiang-Tibet), which will be introduced in future travelogues. PSS: The geological features along this route are extremely diverse. Before setting out, it's recommended to read a little background. About 280 million years ago, crustal movements turned the ancient sea into the [Qinghai-Tibet Plateau], and the majestic [Kunlun Mountains] and [Qilian Mountains] flanking it formed the treasure basin of our motherland - the [Qaidam Basin]. Water flows downhill; the vast sea gradually evaporated in the basin, leaving several large salt lakes: [Qinghai Lake], [Chaka Salt Lake], [Emerald Lake], [Xiaochaidan], [Dongtai and Xitai]. Everything we saw along the way was once part of the ancient sea. Not only did the sea form salt lakes, but where it dried out completely, yardangs were created, giving us the Nanbaxian Dachaidan Devil City, the Eboliang Mars landscape, and the vast nameless Gobi. Continuing westward, crossing the [Dangjin Mountain Pass] where the [Qilian Mountains] and [Altun Mountains] meet, we arrive at the eastern foothills of China's largest [Taklamakan Desert]. Driving along the desert highway leads to the [Dunhuang Oasis]. After a brief stop, we turn east, continue along the [depression Gobi] of the Qilian Mountains, reach Zhangye, cross the Qilian Mountains again back to Xining, follow the course of the [Yellow River] to the Golden City Lanzhou on the [Loess Plateau], and finally brush past the [Tengger Desert] and end with a glass of fine wine in Yinchuan, the fortress beyond the Great Wall.

Day 1, Xining - Qinghai Lake

Date: DAY1, August 20

Route: Xining - Qinghai Lake (Heima River)

Activities: Xining cuisine, Tar Temple, Qinghai Lake

Geographical markers: Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Qinghai Lake

Accommodation: Heima River inn

Summary: At noon, the two of us arrived in Xining by plane, rented a car, tasted Qinghai hotpot in Xining, then visited Tar Temple, and stayed overnight at Heima River by Qinghai Lake.

When we arrived at Xining Station, we found our rental car according to the map – a blue SUV with great looks, shining under the highland sun, making us extremely excited. No complicated procedures, just a simple finger operation to unlock it; this was the vehicle that would carry our happiness to distant places.

As young people, we have an inexplicable fondness for the sharing economy. Whether it's a bubble or hype, as long as it really makes our lives more convenient and reduces travel costs, I'll support it.

The cavalry was ready, but we still needed provisions. Xining has many ethnic local snacks, such as naturally tender hand-grabbed lamb, cool and smooth yogurt, spicy and sour liangpi, firm and chewy yak meat, as well as goujiao niao (a kind of pancake), ga mian pian (noodle slices), butter tsampa, sweet fermented grains, etc. A local friend from Xining recommended the most representative dish: [Qinghai Clay Pot Hotpot] on Yinma Street, about 2 km from Xining Station.

Qinghai's clay pot hotpot is slightly different from the hotpot people usually eat. It uses broth made from beef and lamb as the soup base with a little pickled cabbage for flavor. When served, the main ingredients are already neatly arranged in the pot, mostly cooked. The top is garnished with some shredded chili and green onion for decoration and seasoning, looking very pleasing to the eye.

The hotpot has a spicy and savory flavor, but the soup is clear, the taste natural and mellow. The ingredients are local beef, lamb, chicken, and fish from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. All ingredients are pre-boiled or fried to make the meat rich but not greasy, and the vegetables firm and not easily falling apart.

For the staple, I recommend ordering steamed bun slices or highland barley cake. Two people with one small pot can hardly finish it. Average cost per person is about 60 RMB, and there are group-buy deals online. After eating and drinking our fill, we headed to the most representative and unmissable attraction in Xining - Tar Temple.

At Tar Temple, don't miss the scripture debate

Before coming to Xining, my impression of Tar Temple was both clear and vague. Clear because I had been here ten years ago and knew it was built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug sect (Yellow Hat) of Tibetan Buddhism, one of the six major monasteries of the sect, and its [butter sculpture], [applique embroidery], and [fresco] are the three artistic treasures. Vague because my last visit was a bit rushed; those well-known beautiful stories and sense of sanctity felt as distant and elusive as the moon in a mirror or flowers in water. PS: Tar Temple entrance fee is 70 RMB. If you don't enter the main hall, you only need to see the exterior, which is free.

Leaving Xining city and getting on the expressway, soon Tar Temple appeared before us in a hazy and vast atmosphere. The chill in the air made us, still wearing short sleeves, shiver a few times. But this did not stop the crowd at the temple gate. I was almost swept in by the shoulder-to-shoulder tour groups. Once inside, I saw the vast monastery, crowded and noisy. Ken and I are independent travelers, so I felt a bit disappointed. We chose a slightly quieter place and followed the crowd.

Arriving at the main hall, the Great Gold Tile Hall, the crowd was almost suffocating. In front of the hall were several thick pillars wrapped in colorful wool-woven Tibetan carpets. Stepping over the high threshold and looking up, we saw a golden plaque bestowed by Emperor Qianlong with the four characters "Fan Jiao Fa Chuang" shining brightly. The gilded cloud heads, dripping lotus petals, diamond-set animal heads, copper bells, and the "flame palm mouth" on the roof all exuded exquisiteness and a sense of weight.

Since it was the main hall, we stayed there for a long time. The interior was dim, with thousands of butter lamps flickering with reddish flames, casting mottled shadows, hazy and dreamlike. The smells of dust, mutton, butter, scriptures, and various ritual instruments all mixed together. That unique atmosphere seemed to come from the depths of time, constantly invading my skin and soul.

On all sides of the hall were countless Buddha statues. In the shrines, Tsongkhapa looked down with a smile at the bustling crowd.

Inside the Great Sutra Hall, I must mention the butter sculpture, one of the three wonders of Tar Temple. This is a unique Tibetan sculptural art, ranging from several-meter-high pavilions, Bodhisattvas, and Vajras to three-to-five-centimeter flowers, birds, insects, and fish, all vivid and lifelike. But although the butter sculpture is beautiful, it also has another chilling name, "cruel flower." Because to make exquisite butter sculptures, lamas must keep their hands at extremely low temperatures. Often, after completing a butter sculpture, many lamas' hands are frostbitten.

From the moment I entered the monastery, I kept seeing lamas. The oldest were in their seventies or eighties, the youngest five or six. They seemed different from elsewhere, very leisurely and casual. Some walked, some sat, some gathered to chat, some carried sutra boxes and moved through the sutra courtyards, but most had peaceful expressions. Everyone knows Tar Temple has "three wonders": fresco, applique embroidery, and butter sculpture. These are static beauties. If you want more unforgettable memories, don't miss the scripture debate held daily from 5-7 PM.

Scripture debate is a Buddhist term for debate on Buddhist theory. Monks who have studied the sutras engage in Q&A (one question one answer, one question many answers, or many questions one answer) to exchange their understanding and insights, just like our academic discussions. It's a way for lamas to learn the sutras.

Most Qinghai people have never actually seen the scripture debate at Tar Temple, so when I got permission to photograph it up close, my excitement was immense. Like a child sitting in a grand theater, about to watch a classic Tibetan fairy tale play – though I couldn't understand the language, I could still appreciate the mystery.

Seeing this scene for the first time was very novel. If you only listen to the sounds, it's more like arguing. Sometimes they are fervent and excited, sometimes whispering softly, with clapping and stamping mixed in, vivid and interesting. Each debater has a different style – some bold, some gentle – but all are so focused and attentive.

One side sits, the other stands. The standing questioner claps his hands and speaks with conviction, while the seated respondent often remains impassive. I don't understand Tibetan, but seeing some of them arguing until their faces turned red deeply moved me. The opening move of the debate is clapping. Each time a question is asked, the questioner first steps back a few paces, then swings his prayer beads to his left arm, steps forward, raises his right hand high, and slaps his left hand hard, producing a thunderous clap right in front of the seated lama's head or forehead.

Clapping serves two purposes: first, to indicate that I am asking you a question, please answer quickly and pay respect; second, to intimidate the opponent. It is said that if the respondent cannot answer, the questioner may clap or flick his prayer beads as a warning, and sometimes gesture with his arm to seek support from the Buddha. The respondent must concentrate, fully demonstrating his eloquence and knowledge, not only responding cleverly but also trying to refute the opponent. If the respondent answers appropriately, the surrounding lamas will cheer; if he fails to express or reason, he will be laughed at by the whole audience.

When we came out of the debate courtyard, the clouds had dispersed. Above Tar Temple, the sky was azure, with cotton-like white clouds drifting. In the monastery, the high-flying prayer flags, the red-and-white walls, and the gilded pagodas all became strikingly bright. The sun shone lazily, the wind blew gently, giving the monastery a clear, serene, and expansive atmosphere.

After visiting Tar Temple, we drove all the way to Qinghai Lake. On the way, we saw the starry sky again. After ten years, I could freely reunite with the shores of Qinghai Lake. I couldn't help stopping the car, taking out my camera, and started shooting.

Day 2, Qinghai Lake - Chaka Salt Lake

Date: DAY2, August 21

Route: Qinghai Lake - Chaka Salt Lake

Activities: Qinghai Lake, Chaka Salt Lake

Geographical markers: Qinghai Lake, Xiangpi Mountain, Chaka Salt Lake

Accommodation: Hotel at the gate of Chaka Salt Lake Sky No. 1 Scenic Area (320 RMB; also plenty of options in Chaka town)

Summary: At noon, the two of us arrived in Xining by plane, rented a car, tasted Qinghai hotpot in Xining, then visited Tar Temple, and stayed overnight at Heima River by Qinghai Lake.

Qinghai Lake Travel Guide: Qinghai Lake is huge, 4,400 square kilometers, bigger than many provincial capital cities. So there are many scenic spots along the shore, especially on the east side near Xining, where most tour groups gather. If you want less crowded and free places, go to the west side of the lake. It's completely free. From the Worship Platform to Heima River, it's a concentrated area of herders. In spring, summer, and autumn, herders settle here. By the lake are free-range yaks and sheep. If you want to experience local culture, this is the best place. Park your car at a herder's home, chat warmly, drink some yogurt, and ride a horse to the lake for 60 RMB. If you want to experience the thrill of driving around Qinghai Lake, go to the West Ring Lake Road. From 2 PM until sunset, you can see the blushing Qinghai Lake, as beautiful as a fairy tale. To see the sunrise over Qinghai Lake, stay at Heima River, the best spot for sunrise photography on the lake, with white yaks, colorful prayer flags, and various foregrounds you want.

I arrived at Heima River at 3 AM last night. I knocked on the door of the inn I had visited ten years ago. The owner sleepily poked his head out. Yes, it was still him, just with more wrinkles. I recognized him, but he didn't recognize me.

With a little disappointment, I lay down on the bed, took out my phone to check the weather forecast – cloudy tomorrow morning. I felt somewhat helpless. I had long looked forward to a sunrise, but it seemed unlikely. Unexpectedly, I woke up naturally at 6 AM. Unable to fall back asleep, I got up, drove in the faint dawn light to find the spot I remembered for watching the sunrise. Maybe the weather would change, I consoled myself. But any excitement was quickly dampened when I found the access road to the lake blocked. No way forward. Then in the darkness, an engine sound approached, and a Tibetan young man on a motorcycle smiled at me: "Bro, want to see the sunrise? I'll take you to the lake, ten yuan." I didn't hesitate to get on.

Heima River Sunrise Guide: Due to the fame of Heima River sunrise, the town has become a concentration of tourist accommodation. In late August, a room cost me 150 RMB; reportedly, in peak season it's 300 and you need to book in advance or you'll have to stay in a tent. In the morning, navigate to "Heima River Tent Sunrise Area" (or walk from the town, 200-300 meters). Park at the entrance of the access road, where many Tibetan young men offer motorcycle rides to the lakeside sunrise viewing point for 10 yuan per person, 15 for two, about 3 km away.

At first I was alone, but as the sky began to lighten, the lake shore was already crowded. I knew that to see the true magnificent Heima River sunrise, you need clouds but not too many. The highlight is the sun rising directly from Heima River, shining on the lake surface.

The weather forecast proved depressingly accurate. Today's sunrise was hardly magnificent, not even beautiful. But no one left. Everyone quietly waited for the sun to slowly climb from behind the dark clouds and blink at us through a black slit.

Even though it was August, the morning temperature at Qinghai Lake was only 9°C, and with bad weather and wind, it felt even colder. This is the terrifying temperature difference in the Northwest. Friends planning to watch the sunrise must remember to bring a convenient down jacket.

By the lake, a Tibetan compatriot was leading a white yak, matching well with the lakeside prayer flags. Riding it for a photo cost only 10 yuan, quite reasonable. After all, this yak was carefully selected, pretty and especially dressed up.

Besides yaks, another service was riding a horse in Qinghai Lake for a short loop, price 20 yuan. Not expensive, but without the sunrise backdrop, it lacked some flavor. The intervals between dark clouds grew shorter, and the sun didn't get to meet me. Perhaps because the sunrise ten years ago was too perfect, the universe wanted to give me a contrast. Disappointed, I returned to the small inn, washed up, and had breakfast.

After eating and drinking, maybe because I had slept too little last night, I dozed off in a chair without realizing. When I woke up, the sky had cleared completely. The clouds that had blocked my sunrise were gone without a trace. I perked up, excitedly packed my luggage, and headed to Qinghai Lake. Since I'd been here more than once, I knew there was no need to go to the paid scenic area. From Heima River to the Worship Platform is the herders' territory. To experience the most authentic Qinghai Lake life, this is the place.

Along the way, it's all herders' pasture. Cars can park near their tents, but cannot drive to the lakeside, otherwise the herders will be fined. To go to the lake, you walk or ride a horse. Horse riding is not expensive, 50 RMB round trip.

We didn't plan to ride horses to the lake; we were more interested in the herders' life. After chatting a bit, they warmly invited us to sit down. Just then, a sheep buyer came to buy sheep. With their permission, we started taking pictures freely.

A group of expressionless sheep nervously watched the strangers from afar. Maybe they could guess their fate.

After intense bargaining, the herder agreed to the price. The buyer started selecting among the sheep. At each selection, a Tibetan kid would grab a whip, rush in, catch the sheep's hind leg, and drag it out. No sorrow of parting – the money from selling the sheep would pay for school fees.

The little owner was agile, but the sheep were quick too; it usually took four or five attempts to catch one successfully.

Inside the tent lived a little brother. I went back to the car to get a bag of snacks for him. Unexpectedly, his mother saw us and enthusiastically insisted we stay. She brought out a bucket of yogurt from the fridge and served a large bowl each to Ken and me, adding two spoonfuls of sugar. The taste was far better than any store-bought Qinghai yogurt.

Fresh and mellow.

After all the sheep were sold, before leaving, the male host of the pasture specially performed some horsemanship for us.

Then we continued looking for other herders' homes. We found another family raising yaks. The owner drove the yaks, just finished grazing, into a large pond to cool them down and let them drink their fill.

Nowadays, a yak can sell for 10,000 yuan. This unassuming herder is actually a hidden millionaire.

The Blushing Qinghai Lake on the West Ring Lake Road

When the afternoon sun started to slant, we left the Worship Platform and went to the West Ring Lake Road. If I had to pick the most beautiful section of Qinghai Lake, it would be the West Ring Lake Road. Fewer people and cars, relatively quiet, and pure natural scenery. Here you can see the best angle of Qinghai Lake, very pristine.

Driving on the West Ring Lake Road is wonderful. Soft light shines on you, exceptionally warm. On the gentle road, we kept a moderate speed. Occasionally, sunlight broke through the clouds, stretching our long shadows across the roadside grassland. The silhouettes moved forward steadily on the warm-colored grassland, like a flowing silent film.

The color of Qinghai Lake on the West Ring Lake Road is also the most beautiful – a bluish-green with a touch of blush, and a hint of rainbow at the sky's edge. Everything was so beautiful, my heart felt extremely joyful.

We couldn't linger long on the West Ring Lake Road. We had to reach Chaka Salt Lake before sunset to capture a perfect reflection. From Qinghai Lake to Chaka Salt Lake, the altitude rises significantly. The green mountains along the way make the scenery beautiful. The highest point is the pass of Xiangpi Mountain, 3,800 meters above sea level.

Xiangpi Mountain Pass at 3,800 meters

Sky No. 1 Scenic Area: Not Crowded

It's hard to describe Chaka Salt Lake in one word. When I first came over ten years ago, National Highway 109 was just a dirt road. Few people knew about Chaka, few had been here. No long lines of cars, no red scarves or red dresses. Back then, the people of Chaka town lived off the salt lake. I once got on a mining boat into the lake, met wild ducks and swans. The workers threw stones at them, but they ignored it. At night, bonfires were lit in the middle of the salt lake; workers warmed themselves there. Lying on salt piles at night, I could see the Milky Way, wide enough to split the sky, and I shone my flashlight at it, hoping an alien from Centaurus would receive my signal. Later, the town grew bigger and bigger. People came and went, giving the salt lake many hats – China's Bolivia, the Mirror of the Sky. Then a flood of tourists poured in. When the weather was bad, people said they were tricked by photos, that it didn't live up to its name. Actually, to visit Chaka Salt Lake, you really need good weather.

Now there are two scenic areas on Chaka Salt Lake: the old one, Sky Mirror, and the new one, Sky No. 1. Both have small trains and view the same salt lake. But Sky No. 1 is less crowded because it's newly built and not yet well advertised, with fewer tour groups. If it's peak season, I recommend coming here.

Another advantage of Sky No. 1 is watching the sunset. Since it faces the sunset directly, the photo angles might be better. Here's a comparison of ticket and tram prices for the two areas.

The red small train is particularly striking on the salt lake. The sun was about to set; we didn't have time to explore more with the train.

But even the entrance section was beautiful enough.

The small train ticket is worth buying – in such an environment, just sitting and watching the scenery is a joy.

We also sat down on the boardwalk. The shimmering Chaka Salt Lake was like an endless mirror, clearly reflecting white clouds, green mountains, and the small train. On the boardwalk, we seemed to float in the air. The brilliant sunset was at our feet. For a moment, we stood there dumbfounded, unable to move.

Still, I couldn't find the right words to describe the beauty of the salt lake. Chaka is not like West Lake, which never needs heavy makeup or light powder; nor like Li River, lively and ethereal; nor like Qinghai Lake, turbulent and vast... It is nothing else. It is only itself, clean and mysterious. It is a mirror of the sky, and in this mirror, you can even see your own soul.

After watching the sunset, we didn't go to Chaka town. We checked into a hotel right at the entrance of Sky No. 1 Scenic Area. The conditions were decent; we booked online for a little over 300 RMB per night.

Day 3, Chaka Salt Lake - Delingha - Emerald Lake

Date: DAY3, August 22

Route: Chaka Salt Lake - Delingha - Emerald Lake

Activities: Delingha, Emerald Lake

Geographical markers: Qaidam Basin

Accommodation: Dachaidan Town (standard room, price 350 RMB)

Summary: After breakfast, we departed from Chaka Salt Lake, passed through Delingha, and drove all the way to Dachaidan Emerald Lake. Because of rain, we waited at the hotel for 3 hours. PS: Dachaidan Emerald Lake is probably the most beautiful of all the salt lakes in the Qaidam Basin. It not only has the perfect reflection like Chaka Salt Lake but also colorful lakes in as many as seven shades. Even without a drone, you can take great photos. Currently, Emerald Lake does not charge admission, but with the completion of scenic area facilities and the arrival of small trains, the days of driving freely in and out are numbered. PSS: After entering the Emerald Lake scenic area gate, there is a straight main road. On the right is a large white salt lake that can reflect the sky like Chaka. On the left are small salt ponds of different colors. Continue driving into the left depths to see more beautiful colors. No matter where you shoot, it looks good. PSSS: For accommodation at Emerald Lake, you can stay in Dachaidan Town, 15 km away. Many hotels here are newly built after the Northwest route became popular. Prices are relatively high, generally between 300-500 RMB, but there are many hotels. You can choose on site; paying a few dozen more gives much better conditions.

I woke up naturally at 6 AM again, but the good weather from last night's sunset was completely gone. I had planned to go into the salt lake again for the sunrise, but the rain made me give up. Today we had a five-hour drive to Dachaidan Emerald Lake, so we couldn't delay too long. We set off in the rain. After passing Chaka Salt Lake, we officially entered the treasure basin of our motherland – the Qaidam Basin. The previous lush green landscape turned into a large Gobi. The rain fell intermittently, dark clouds gathered, the sky was dim. It felt like the movie No Man's Land.

For thousands of years, the barren Qaidam Basin has been a desolate land with few human traces. Rich oil, coal, and various metal deposits are the business cards of this "treasure basin." The oil of Lenghu, coal of Yuka, lead-zinc mines of Xitieshan, and potash salts spread across the basin are all key national mineral projects. Many oil towns and mining towns were built for this purpose.

As we continued driving, occasionally we saw camels by the side of the national highway, adding a bit of life to the vast Gobi. Just then, the rain eased a bit. We drove onto a dirt road in the Gobi. Unexpectedly, the camels were not afraid of us; instead, they walked toward our car, apparently begging for food. After these two days of driving, I had grown somewhat attached to our rental car. It looked good from every angle. In the coming days, we would rely heavily on this little blue car in the vast Gobi.

Goodbye, camel gentlemen. I hope to see your friends again on the desert in Dunhuang.

Near Delingha, we saw an interesting scenic sign: "Alien Ruins." I had seen reports in documentaries long ago. There have been endless rumors about aliens landing on Earth. As many alien news were debunked, people began to be skeptical. People try to use scientific evidence to confirm whether aliens really visited Earth. In China, the most famous is this alien ruins in front of us. There are various oddly shaped caves and desert patterns, making people wonder if this was the habitat of aliens on Earth. The most peculiar is a cave with a large iron pipe 40 cm in diameter going from the top into the cave, over a hundred meters long. After years of rust, the pipe is still clearly visible. At the entrance, more than ten iron pipes penetrate the rock. These pipes fit perfectly with the rock, not like they were inserted into pre-drilled holes but directly into hard rock. Analysis of the pipe's composition shows it is mainly iron with some unknown elements. The source of that 8% unknown elements is unknown – some say from the Earth's core, some from outer space, some from the deep sea, etc. In short, they are not known elements. Originally we planned to visit this site, but due to protection reasons, the scenic area is temporarily closed, which is a pity.

Sunset at Emerald Lake Suddenly Appears

Continuing on, we arrived at Dachaidan at 2 PM. But it was still raining, so we couldn't go to the scenic area. We rested in the room. Just before sunset, the rain eased a bit. We still drove to Emerald Lake, intending to scout for tomorrow's sunrise. Unexpectedly, as soon as we arrived at the scenic area, the weather changed: the rain stopped, the clouds grew thinner, and tonight's sunset seemed promising.

Because of the rain, there were almost no people in the scenic area. Only our car drove on the main road. The lake surface was very calm, reflecting the sky and earth. Driving felt strangely sacred.

Suddenly, a young couple walked into the lake, completely absorbed, staring motionless at the sunset direction. The scene was so harmonious that I couldn't help pressing the shutter. Sometimes the scenery is monotonous, but adding people makes it more beautiful.

After watching the sunset, we returned to the hotel. But I kept thinking about the starry sky at Emerald Lake, hoping the clouds would dissipate quickly. Finally, at 1 AM, the sky suddenly cleared. I immediately drove from the hotel to the Emerald Lake main road again. At that moment, the stars shone brightly. I finally understood why Emerald Lake has such rich colors: countless stars fall into the lake one by one, turning into that beautiful blush.

The lake surface reflected the sky like a mirror. I enjoyed the quiet time alone with Emerald Lake, reminding me of that night in the Sky Mirror of Bolivia.

I waited until the Milky Way fell into the lake, then reluctantly took my tripod and left Emerald Lake. When the sun shines again tomorrow, I will come to see you again.

Day 4, Emerald Lake - Nanbaxian - Dongtai - Water Yardang

Date: DAY4, August 23

Route: Emerald Lake - Nanbaxian - Dongtai - Water Yardang

Activities: Emerald Lake, Nanbaxian, Water Yardang

Geographical markers: Salt lake, Yardang, Water Yardang

Accommodation: Water Yardang fisherman's dormitory "Desert Inn" (price 500, poor conditions but no other option)

Summary: After breakfast, visit Emerald Lake, then take G215 through Nanbaxian to Water Yardang, stay at Water Yardang fisherman's dormitory. PS: There are two routes from Emerald Lake to Water Yardang: one is via G215 through Nanbaxian Yardang landform (also called Dachaidan Devil City); the other is via G315 past the U-shaped highway. The latter is longer, about 40 minutes slower, so the former is recommended.

PSS: The best time to shoot at Emerald Lake is twice: at sunset for mirror reflections of clouds and snow mountains, stunning; and at noon on clear days for the colorful lights. Both are not to be missed and are excellent for Instagram-style portraits. PSSS: From Dongtai Jin'er Lake to Water Yardang to Xitai Jin'er Lake, there are no towns along the way. Accommodation options are limited: one is a service area at the intersection of G215 and G315 (7 km from Dongtai Jin'er Lake) with 2-3 inns; then the RV base at Water Yardang scenic area, which is very popular and requires early booking; and the fisherman's dormitory we stayed in called "Desert Inn," a container room with a double bed, poor conditions, only shared bathroom, 500 RMB per night. But because it's close to the lake, you can shoot sunset and stars at night, which is the only consolation. If you choose to stay here, you can message me for contact information. PSSSS: People might think of watching sunset at Dongtai Jin'er Lake when arriving in the afternoon, but the sunset at Dongtai lacks foreground and is not beautiful. It's recommended to go to Water Yardang for sunset, but the scenic area closes before the sun sets and clears visitors. So where to shoot? Our stay at the fisherman's dormitory "Desert Inn" offers a good sunset viewing spot. After seeing the blue sign for "Desert Inn" on the roadside, turn in, about 7 km to the lake. From the lake, go west to see a large area of Water Yardang (only 2 km from the scenic area gate). The view is almost the same as inside. After shooting the sunset, the starry night is also beautiful. The key is that it's free.

Yesterday's starry shooting kept me up late. I slept until 9 AM this morning. When I went out, the sunny Dachaidan was completely different from the rainy, overcast day yesterday. The whole town seemed much more spirited. After having breakfast at a noodle shop, I spent 50 RMB to wash the car. Yesterday, we got a lot of salt lake water on it. If it remains too long, it can corrode the chassis. Although it's a rental, we still have a sense of responsibility. Little Blue still has to accompany us for 7 days, so we can't let it feel uncomfortable. If it were our own car, we would wash it even cleaner.

Behind Dachaidan are the majestic Qilian Mountains. In fall and winter, this area is covered with white snow, making the salt lake even more beautiful against the snowy mountains.

The Most Beautiful Colors in Qaidam Basin

When I first saw Emerald Lake, I almost didn't recognize it. It was completely different from the rainy scene yesterday. The colors were so vivid and dazzling. This is the eternal love child of the sea and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Countless grains of salt and drops of water gathered in the treasure basin of Qaidam, settled at the foot of the Qilian Mountains, creating the scene before us – so beautiful that one just wants to sit quietly.

In such a magnificent natural landscape, one can easily feel like they've stumbled into a fairyland.

Turning left from the main road of the scenic area, we encountered more and more colorful lakes, like emeralds inlaid between heaven and earth. Actually, Emerald Lake is not naturally formed. It is the former mining area of the Dachaidan Chemical Plant's salt lake mining team. After years of mining, pits were formed, filled with water, and turned into the beautiful Emerald Lake. The reason for so many beautiful colors is that the pits contain metal elements and halides such as potassium, magnesium, and lithium. Due to different proportions of components, they appear pale green, emerald green, or deep blue, alternating, and blending with the salt flowers in the lake to create a green and sparkling emerald garden.

In the brine ponds of various sizes, the lake water shows green, blue, yellow, brown, and other colors due to different mineral element contents. Against the blue sky and white clouds, they look like pieces of jade scattered on earth.

Also like God's palette, mixing various...

The high-concentration brine in these salt ponds of different sizes, shapes, and depths is called "brine" by local miners. Due to different mineral concentrations, the colors appear varied. When calm, they are like mirrors scattered everywhere, pure and translucent, with pale green, emerald green, and deep green waters making them look like emerald jade inlaid in the Gobi, jumping to become a new Instagram hotspot.

After Emerald Lake became a hotspot, quite a few visitors came. Tour buses also definitely don't miss this place. But self-driving tourists don't need to worry. Just drive a little further inside and you can enjoy a private scene like the one below. However, when driving on the salt lake, you must control your speed and be careful because the hardpan is not strong enough; there may be big pits that can get you stuck.

Between the lakes, there is almost always a wide road connecting them. You can stop along the shore and enjoy the scenery to your heart's content.

Besides the blue series, occasionally you can find a small pond like this, red or yellow.

If it weren't for needing to rush to Water Yardang today, I could have spent the whole day quietly at Emerald Lake. Ken was reluctant to leave and found various excuses to stay. But the Qaidam Basin has too many beautiful sights, and there is more to look forward to ahead. So we had to start the engine and continue. Next time, when the mountains are white in winter, I will visit again. I imagine it will be even more pure, a world of ice and snow.

No matter how the scenic area is developed, I hope this pristine land will always retain its original beauty. The reflections under the sky are the purest scenery in the world. These colorful lakes are the most beautiful colors on earth. Come on a sunny day to experience the charm of our motherland. China's landscapes are the most beautiful in the world.

Dachaidan Devil City

"Yardang" originally comes from the Uyghur language, meaning a steep hill. During crustal changes, areas that were once sea or lake dried up due to uplift. The ground formed by fluvial and lacustrine deposits gradually dried and cracked. Wind eroded along these cracks, and after hundreds of thousands of years of careful carving, the cracks grew larger, forming the yardang landform. This type of yardang is often called the Devil City due to the eerie sounds of wind and its strange shapes.

Nanbaxian, an hour's drive from Emerald Lake, is such a Devil City. Before arriving, thinking of yardang brings to mind scenes of barrenness, weathering, and isolation. Although I had seen some before, actually coming here, I was still shocked by the unique landscape and grand momentum.

Nanbaxian is considered the starting point of the vast Qaidam yardang group. Why such a beautiful name? There is a touching story. In 1955, as the motherland was under vigorous construction, the Qaidam Basin, full of industrial treasures, welcomed its first developers. They bore the heavy responsibility of revitalizing this ancient barren land. Among them were eight female geological team members. They came here to search for oil, dedicating their youth. But the barrenness here was unimaginable. Even today, there is no cell signal and no one lives here. Over 60 years ago, it was absolute wilderness. These eight women, determined to find oil for the motherland, ventured deep into the desert and ultimately perished there. Half a year later, their bodies were discovered. They gave their lives for the motherland's development. To commemorate them, the place was named: Nanbaxian (Eight Immortals of the South).

Today, Nanbaxian has become an unmissable scenic spot on the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop. Countless people driving by are attracted by the magnificent landscape. Currently, Nanbaxian Yardang is undeveloped with no scenic area control. About 60 km of S210 provincial road winds through the Nanbaxian Yardang, making driving enjoyment and roadside yardang scenery complement each other.

A few kilometers into the scenic area, there is a viewing platform where locals operate beach buggy rentals. There are several tourist buses and many self-driving cars on the roadside and platform. Most tourists stop here, some strolling in the yardang, some climbing high to overlook, and some directly driving into the yardang group along previous tire tracks to explore.

Driving inside, I discovered the diverse forms of Nanbaxian Yardang. Some are like endless steamed bun arrays, with dome-shaped hills stretching to the horizon, like two armies confronting each other; some look like world-famous sculptures, such as the Sphinx, The Thinker; some resemble animals like elephants, monkeys, pigs; some are like continuous city walls.

Soon, the entire Nanbaxian will be included in a protected area, making it hard to have the experience of driving inside. If you want to come, this National Day holiday might be the last chance. When driving, you must follow previous tire tracks, do not drive on loose soil – first to protect the yardang, second to protect yourself. When going deep, don't go too far from the road, just a little taste is enough.

Ken, seeing yardang for the first time, was beyond excited. He didn't expect such magnificent beauty to exist in our motherland. But this is just an appetizer; when we get to Eboliang, that's the peak of China's yardang landforms.

Finally, we rushed to Dongtai Jin'er Lake to watch the sunset. But the sunset there lacked foreground and wasn't beautiful. Moreover, without top light, the water lacked color. We hurried to Water Yardang, but by the time we reached the lake, the sun had already set, leaving only a bit of evening glow at the horizon.

Many fishing boats were docked at the lake. Fishermen live here raising crucian carp and hairy crabs. The salinity of this lake is the lowest in the entire Qaidam Basin, allowing freshwater organisms to survive.

Back in the room, the owner said there was a restaurant where we could order food. We didn't expect much, but surprisingly it tasted good. We ate heartily, extremely happy in this wilderness. One braised crucian carp was 30 RMB, a plate of fried pig ears 38 RMB, a plate of greens 20 RMB – generous portions. Two men couldn't finish it. This was another benefit of spending 500 yuan on a container room.

If you come during the National Day holiday as a rich tourist, you can also try the hairy crabs, 98 RMB per catty. It's mid-August, the best time for crab roe – not to be missed.

Originally, Ken was dissatisfied with spending 500 yuan on a container room, feeling the owner was taking advantage. But after seeing the Milky Way that night, he exclaimed that the 500 yuan was well spent. It was even better than the starry sky at Emerald Lake. There was truly the romantic feeling of "Drunk, I don't know the water is under the sky; the boat full of clear dreams weighs down the Milky Way."

At that moment, I just wanted to find a mat, lay it on the sand, lie down, and quietly watch everything, counting the stars as I fell asleep.

Day 5, Water Yardang - Dongtai - Xitai - Eboliang

Date: DAY5, August 24

Route: Water Yardang - Dongtai Jin'er Lake - Xitai Jin'er Lake - Eboliang

Activities: Water Yardang, Dongtai Jin'er Lake, Xitai Jin'er Lake, Eboliang

Geographical markers: Yardang, Salt lake

Accommodation: Eboliang Mars Base

Summary: Today, after watching the sunrise at Water Yardang, we returned to Dongtai Jin'er Lake for a visit, then passed through Xitai Jin'er Lake and took Mars Highway No. 1 to Eboliang. PS: Dongtai Jin'er Lake, Water Yardang, and Xitai Jin'er Lake are all on the same road, close to each other. Water Yardang scenic area requires a ticket: 60 RMB for entry, 60 RMB for the electric cart (but you can shoot without entering). Dongtai Jin'er Lake only charges a parking fee of 10 RMB for now. Xitai Jin'er Lake is along the roadside, so it's unlikely to charge an entrance fee. PSS: After entering the Dongtai Jin'er Lake scenic area gate, I recommend going to the right side where there are fewer people. You can take better photos without the crowds, and the water is clearer. Xitai Jin'er Lake is on both sides of the road, with two colors on left and right. There are seagulls living on the lake. At the beginning, there is less water and more people. You can quickly pass to the central area with better colors. The total length is 10 km. Since there is no parking area on the road, be sure to pull over and pay attention to safety. PSSS: After leaving Xitai Jin'er Lake, there are two routes to Eboliang Mars Base. One is Mars Highway No. 1, featuring Mars-like landscape all the way, a dirt road, uneven, often potholed, bumpy, 82 km total, takes 2 hours, giving a sci-fi feeling of Mars rover. The other is to continue on G315, mostly paved with some dirt, 277 km total, takes 4 hours. I recommend the former for better scenery and time-saving, but be sure to fill up gas at the Xitai Jin'er Lake gas station and replenish food and water.

PSSSS: When navigating to Eboliang on Baidu Maps, do not input "Eboliang" – it will lead you to the wrong place. Input "Mars Base" and select the one in Mangya City, Haixi Mongolian and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province. As you approach, you'll see the Eboliang Yardang group on the right. PSSSSS: Eboliang Yardang is the most unmissable spot on the entire Northwest Loop. Currently, no admission fee. But accommodation is a major issue. If you visit during the day and leave in the evening, you can stay in Lenghu Town, where there are many hotels at low prices. But the daytime scenery is nowhere near as good as evening. If you want to see the sunset and stars, you have to stay at Eboliang Mars Base or rough it in the car for one night. After dark, visibility is limited, and it's basically impossible to drive out of Eboliang. If you try, you risk getting lost and likely getting stuck. If staying at Mars Base, there are two options: indoor single capsule rooms, 800 RMB per person even in low season; and outdoor tents, 400 RMB for two people per night. You can also bring your own tent and camp for 100 RMB per tent.

My biological clock wakes me up at 6 AM every day. I resolutely drag myself out of the container, not wanting to waste such beautiful scenery and early morning. At the lakeside, the Water Yardang from last night is now clearer. This yardang is also part of Dongtai Jin'er Great Salt Lake. Originally, Dongtai and Xitai were one lake. Tens of thousands of years ago, due to lake shrinkage, they separated into two independent water systems. Now both are fed by snowmelt from mountains.

Although born of the same mother, Dongtai Jin'er Lake's salinity is only one-third of Xitai Jin'er Lake, which is why fishermen raise fish and crabs here. For a southerner like me, this scene is very novel, and I'm curious how these crabs compare to those from Yangcheng Lake.

Trying to shoot from a high angle, under the drone's lens, amidst a pale green lake, various graceful yardangs stand in the water, reflecting beautiful shadows on the surface. The water is as warm as jade, the yardang elegant and varied. This magical natural landscape is a masterpiece of nature's delicate carving, making one marvel at nature's miraculous creation and transformative power.

Most yardangs found worldwide exist in extremely arid areas, making this Water Yardang so rare – the only one of its kind in the world.

Like continental yardangs, this water yardang is a magnificent landscape formed by lake water under long-term desert and Gobi weathering conditions. After the yardang landscape was formed, crustal movements in the Qaidam Basin caused water from Qinghai Lake and elsewhere to flow underground into this yardang area, creating the magnificent Water Yardang we see.

To compare our fisherman's wharf stay with the scenic area, I ran to the scenic area gate to fly a drone and found little difference. But for tourists without drones, I recommend going to the scenic area, where sightseeing cars take you to multiple viewpoints for more interesting photos.

The Dongtai Jin'er Lake we saw last evening was not satisfying, far from its legendary beauty. So after today's sunrise, we went back to Dongtai again to have another look.

What China's Maldives, what real Tiffany blue? Like Chaka Salt Lake, Dongtai Jin'er Lake has been given many hats by netizens. Everyone says it's beautiful, so I had high expectations. But all my memories of Dongtai Jin'er Lake are just the green mint water and the smile of a pure Tibetan girl. Maybe yesterday's Emerald Lake was too stunning; by contrast, Dongtai seemed less impressive. But if you list China's lakes and compare, Dongtai is still in the top 10, and you can easily reach it by car without climbing mountains.

Dongtai Jin'er Lake lies deep in the Qaidam Basin. Its water comes from the Hetuobanri Snow Mountain and Bukadaban Snow Mountain in the Kunlun Mountains. The lake's color is different from the salt lakes we'd seen before. Due to a high copper content, the water appears bright green. The shore is covered with white crystals, which is beautiful. I thought that was all for Dongtai, but then I saw a Tibetan girl on the shore, wearing a red dress, turning to me with a slight smile. I raised my camera, and she shyly lowered her head to play with the lake water. Her innocent smile, along with this salt lake, became my best memory.

Actually, traveling in the Qaidam Basin of Qinghai is about witnessing various shades of blue. Calling Dongtai Jin'er Lake "China's Maldives" is not unreasonable, because such mint water is hard to find except in Sanya. Seeing such a free, beautiful view in inland Qinghai naturally surprises and excites everyone.

Actually, this place is friendly to people without drones. Since Dongtai is huge, the lake water near the shore is not abundant, and low-angle shots look better.

If it were the rainy season with abundant water, Dongtai would be even more beautiful. That endless blue lake surface is definitely a blue not seen in cities, a mysterious salt lake belonging only to nature. When you stand before the clear blue water, time seems to stop flowing. The quiet lake makes your thoughts fly, bringing inner peace that returns to nature.

Not far from Dongtai Jin'er Lake is Xitai Jin'er Lake. Tens of thousands of years ago, they were connected; now they are separate. Unlike Dongtai's pure emerald color, Xitai is colorful. This large salt lake covers 110 square kilometers, containing over 36 million tons of potash fertilizer – the best resource among all salt lakes in China. Currently, factories are built around the lake, expanding production. By 2025, it is expected to supply 80% of China's potash fertilizer, meaning 80% of the potassium element for our table vegetables and fruits comes from Xitai. That's one small contribution of our treasure basin, the Qaidam Basin, to national construction.

This salt bridge crossing Xitai Jin'er Lake is part of National Highway G315. The roadbed is entirely made of crystallized salt, with high load-bearing capacity, allowing cars and trucks to run on it.

From a high altitude in the center of the lake, you can clearly see two distinct colors on the left and right, caused by different evaporation rates and salinity.

The two-colored road at Xitai Jin'er Lake is about 10 km long. There are no special parking areas along the road, and there are many large trucks from chemical factories. Be careful when visiting. At the beginning, there is less water and more people. You can quickly pass to the central area with better colors.

"The yardangs along the shore grew higher and stranger. Some looked like tables, some like roofs, casting dark shadows on the ground. Sometimes they were like towers, like walls, like old houses and castles, suggesting the ruins of a town. Sometimes they resembled crouching lions, reclining dragons, sleeping dogs, and indescribable monsters, a fairy-tale world. No trees here; the pale gray and rose-colored earth bore the marks of death everywhere. We entered a beautiful and strange wilderness that enchanted the heart." — Sven Hedin, Eight Years in the Heart of Asia

When I read Sven Hedin's Eight Years in the Heart of Asia, I became intensely interested in Eboliang. I had visited three years ago, and this time returning added some reflections. Shortly after leaving Xitai Jin'er Lake, we saw the sign for Eboliang. Next to it stood a road marker reading "Mars Highway No. 1." Well, we were about to enter the place most resembling Mars in the world – the Qaidam Yardang group.

This highway has no inhabitants, no supplies, and no cell signal. So at the Xitai gas station, be sure to fill up, set your navigation, buy food for the day, and prepare at least one spare tire and tools. The road is bumpy throughout; the driver must slow down, or your butt will suffer and there's a risk of tire blowout. If you lack outdoor experience, follow existing tire tracks closely and don't drive onto loose soil to avoid getting stuck. If you get into an emergency, don't panic. Even without cell signal, you can still call 110 for help; the people's police are always our solid support.

This road is called Mars Highway for good reason. Its landscape closely matches the photos and videos sent back by NASA's Curiosity rover. If you have no hope of traveling to Mars in this life, come to Eboliang.

The washboard road bounced us up and down, making our heads ache and impossible to think. Sometimes the tire tracks were too chaotic; we had to climb a hill to confirm the correct direction of the tracks. This Mars trip was full of adventure, but we never gave up. We had to reach Mars Base, the heart of Eboliang.

Though our bodies suffered, our hearts were firm and our desire for Eboliang intense. We also thanked little Blue for its excellent performance, easily handling such tough conditions and giving us the courage to challenge Mars. So when renting a car in the Northwest, don't be cheap. If the car is in poor condition or the rental company's maintenance is lacking, getting stuck in the wilderness will not only delay your trip but also incur high additional costs.

After all that bouncing, when we finally saw the Mars Base, we almost wept with emotion. It really felt like we had finished a difficult Mars rally and found the finish line.

The first sight of Mars Base was truly stunning. Yellow sand stretching far, with only this building visible for hundreds of miles – a high-tech space station. How could we not love it? Honestly, every boy has a space dream, wanting to land on the moon and explore Mars. This place fulfills that dream.

Due to the similarity in size and geological structure to Earth, humans have long had plans to immigrate to Mars. The two planets are not too far apart and receive similar sunlight. However, lacking Earth's thick atmosphere as a "protective umbrella," Mars's climate is much harsher. Overall, Mars is colder than Earth. Near the equator, daytime temperatures can reach above 20°C, but the temperature difference between day and night is huge, dropping to -50°C or lower at night. Such conditions are too harsh for life.

Since all supplies must be brought from outside, plus the monopolistic business model, staying inside Mars Base overnight is expensive. Even in low season, it's 800 RMB per person. In August, peak season, the price rises to 1300 per person. We had to settle for a tent next to it, 400 RMB per tent for two people. Ken joked that we weren't official astronauts of Mars Base, at most temporary workers.

After finding our accommodation for the night, we hurried to enter Eboliang before sunset.

Driving in, we saw a Mars Civilization Convention at the entrance. All place names were also Mars-themed. It seems that after formal development, Eboliang might be renamed Mars Exploration Base.

The sun was setting, making Eboliang look beautiful. To ensure we could safely return to Mars Base after shooting the stars, Ken and I noted all intersections and landmarks.

I never like to take photos of myself, but I also took one at Eboliang. Sometimes I want to be a geological explorer, liking the desolate and quiet atmosphere of being in no-man's land.

Driving in Eboliang requires courage and carefulness. Don't rush down slopes; make sure the roadbed is solid. Never go where there are no tire tracks, to protect both the environment and yourself.

The deeper we went, the more it felt like entering a giant maze. Dense yardangs of various shapes surrounded us, making us feel incredibly small. This place is desolate but has the most mysterious yardang group, carved over tens of millions of years, creating this magnificent and breathtaking wonder.

From a high vantage point, our drone captured the sunset over the entire Eboliang landscape, as if witnessing a vast sunset on another planet outside Earth. I couldn't stop pressing the shutter, faithfully recording the immortal landscape. The small hills in the distance, shaped by wind erosion, maintained a strict parallel state.

Sometimes the roadbed was soft; even a small slope required stepping on the gas. But the thrust was cool, and every change of angle gave Eboliang a different look.

Actually, shooting just the scenery can be monotonous. Adding a car gives more travel feeling. So throughout the trip, we used little Blue as a prop to embellish the scenery.

Going deeper, the yardang development became more mature. No longer a single type, but multiple yardang types coexisting: flat-topped mesas, sawtooth-shaped, conical hills, beacon tower-shaped... dazzled us.

At a certain depth, trough-and-ridge yardangs reappeared. But the grooves between yardangs were no longer the saline-alkali mud crust we saw before, but stretches of sandy ground, completely sandified. The yardang group seemed to float on a sea of sand. We dared not go further.

This is all that Eboliang can offer. Though we saw yardangs all along, their variety was so rich, their layers so abundant, rarely seen in the world. It is the most magnificent yardang landscape corridor in the Qaidam Basin. Even if it's tough, I recommend that anyone with time visit this place and feel this precious emotion.

After sunset, the show at Eboliang was not over. We parked the car by the main road and walked into the depths of the yardang, waiting for the brilliant starry sky to unfold.

Eboliang Yardang stretches for hundreds of miles. At night, the wind brushes past your ears, highlighting its mystery, roughness, vastness, and solitude. No matter how the northwest wind rages, it stands calmly and steadily in the vast desert, showcasing nature's vicissitudes to passing people.

The starry sky is the best ornament for the landscape at this moment. Last time I came to Eboliang, I longed to be alone with it. This time, it finally came true.

Bidding farewell to Eboliang, we relied on memory and offline navigation to return to Mars Base. Escaping from the concrete jungle of the city, we sped across the purest wilderness. Between heaven and earth, only the splendid Milky Way. That experience was like the exhilaration and freedom after drinking.

Day 6, Eboliang - Aksai - Dunhuang

Date: DAY6, August 25

Route: Eboliang - Aksai - Dunhuang

Activities: Dangjin Mountain, Aksai Desert Highway, Dunhuang Yangguan, Mingsha Mountain

Geographical markers: Altun Mountains, Qilian Mountains, Taklamakan Desert, West Lake Wetland

Accommodation: Dunhuang Villa

Summary: In the morning, we left Eboliang, had breakfast in Lenghu Town, refueled, then crossed Dangjin Mountain to enter Gansu Province. We were greeted by the eastern foothills of the Taklamakan Desert. After crossing the desert highway, we arrived in Dunhuang, visiting Yangguan and Mingsha Mountain scenic areas. PS: Dunhuang is a traditional tourist city with many attractions. You may not know how to choose, but in Dunhuang, you must center on the theme of the desert frontier city. The following attractions are recommended: [Mogao Caves] is a must-see. The ticket prices differ in peak and low seasons. Peak season: April 1 - November 30, opening hours 08:00-18:00; Low season: December 1 - March 31, opening hours 09:00-17:30. Below are the ticket prices and tour content.

Mogao Caves implements a real-name ticketing and admission verification system. You can follow the WeChat account "Mogao Caves Reservation Network" and click "Reserve Tickets" to purchase A-type and B-type tour tickets within 30 days. [Mingsha Mountain/Crescent Moon Spring]: Also a must-visit in Dunhuang, ticket 120 RMB. The desert looks beautiful at sunset. Avoid going during the day when it's too hot. After facial recognition at the gate, you can re-enter within 48 hours. [Yangguan Scenic Area]: Ticket 50 RMB. If you like Dunhuang frontier culture, go there, 60 km from the city. You can visit it on the way from Qinghai. [Dunhuang Museum]: Free admission. If you regret not having a photo with Mogao Caves, the simulated caves here offer that chance. Only 3 km from Crescent Moon Spring, you can visit both together. [Dunhuang Ancient City]: Ticket 40 RMB. This is a newly built film studio. Familiar movies like Detective Di Renjie were filmed here. They offer a "pretend to be a star" service where a group surrounds you to pretend to shoot a movie, and you can get a DV. Also, due to many sets, girls can take desert-style photos, perfectly matching the Dunhuang vibe.

Last night, we were truly shocked by Eboliang's volcanic landscape. This morning, we were still savoring it, but the road ahead led to Dunhuang. So we left the scenery behind and set off with great anticipation for the Hexi Corridor. This was the last flat road before leaving the Qaidam Basin. Both sides were lined with huge white wind turbines. Ahead lay the Dangjin Mountain Pass, where the Qilian Mountains and Altun Mountains meet.

When the car left Qinghai and arrived at Dangjin Mountain Pass, the altitude was 3,600 meters. The air became thin. Ken fell into anxiety about altitude sickness. I quickly turned on music to distract him. This Dangjin Mountain lies at the intersection of the east-west Qilian Mountains and the north-south Altun Mountains, spreading south of Subei. The mountain is steep and sparsely vegetated.

After four days of driving on straight national highways, suddenly arriving at mountain roads brought a fresh feeling.

Leaving the uninhabited area, we finally met a highland herder at Dangjin Mountain Pass. He was riding a horse, driving sheep along the ridge. Seeing this, Ken, who had been listless, revived and grabbed his camera to chase after him. After being isolated in the uninhabited area for two days, seeing a local resident was a moment to record.

During our ten-day journey, we met many herders in Qinghai and Gansu. Every single one was very friendly. As long as we respect them, they respect us. Having more interactions with locals during a trip makes it more memorable, like the sugar added to that bowl of yogurt by Qinghai Lake, which enriched the flavor.

Descending Dangjin Mountain Pass, the altitude dropped to 1,200 meters. The scorching heat of August returned, temperatures soaring to 37°C. We quickly changed into summer clothes, missing the coolness of the Qaidam Basin days. Leaving Aksai city, we were greeted by China's largest desert – the Taklamakan. We were now on its eastern edge.

Crossing the Taklamakan Desert involved a dozen kilometers of desert highway. Both sides were rolling sand dunes. Driving felt exhilarating. There were some side roads leading into the desert. If interested, you can try a short stretch. But driving in the desert requires skill. To start, follow the "start once, not twice" principle. If the first attempt fails, don't force a second, as the tires will easily dig holes. Get out and check if you need to reverse or dig out sand blocking the tires. Never keep revving the engine on the sand; you'll only sink deeper.

The end of this desert highway was the city we longed for: Dunhuang.

Dunhuang – a beautiful term, so beautiful that one can only read its sound, not know its meaning. Dunhuang – a place of freedom, where even gods and Buddhas settle. I can't remember how many times I've come to Dunhuang. This vast and desolate land is so lonely, so heavy. It has buried countless stories of iron horses and golden spears, countless bones seeking faith, and countless camel bells of caravans.

Leaving the eastern edge of the Taklamakan, we continued west to the West Lake Wetland, which nurtures the city of Dunhuang and is an important force preventing the desert from advancing east.

The wetland is rich in water plants, vibrant even in winter. Large flocks of lambs outline the beautiful grassland beyond the Great Wall. All this ecology is supported by the intricate groundwater system of the Taklamakan Desert.

It can support both herding and garrisoning troops. During the Han Dynasty, Emperor Wu stationed heavy troops here to resist the Xiongnu and built Hecang City along the Shule River to store military provisions. The ruins remain today.

Not far from Hecang City, forming a pincer, are Yangguan and Yumen Pass. The two guarded each other, protecting the entire Hexi Corridor. After their establishment, the main Xiongnu forces dared not make major incursions south, and major conflicts between Han and Xiongnu ceased, with peace marriages becoming the main theme.

For centuries, people from the Central Plains, Xiongnu, Persians, Loulan, Dayuan, Turks, and Dzungars hurried along the long historical road from Emperor Wu to the Tang Dynasty, witnessing the rise and fall of dynasties. Killing and war repeatedly ravaged this land, leaving countless chapters scattered in the unpredictable desert.

From Yangguan to Mingsha Mountain, the setting sun dyed the desert light yellow. The desert began to look beautiful, without the scorching sun. A gentle breeze made everything pleasant.

At the foot of Mingsha Mountain, there is a hotel with a frontier-city feel called Dunhuang Villa, large and imposing, perfectly matching the desert. In low season, a room costs over 600 RMB. Staying there offers many beautiful photo angles, quite worth it.

Dunhuang Villa is very atmospheric and beautiful, like a palace inside.

If you want a budget option, you can stay at the adjacent Crescent Moon Spring Town, with rooms around 100 RMB, clean and comfortable. Another advantage is that many Northwest cuisines are gathered here.

In Crescent Moon Spring Town, there is a food street. On this street, the flag for Dayuan camel meat is particularly prominent. Camel meat is hard to come by. There are few camels, and even fewer chefs who can cook it well. But there is exactly one shop in Crescent Moon Spring Town.

Eating camel meat has a long history in ancient China. Zhang Qian brought camels back from Dayuan to the Han Empire, winning Emperor Wu's favor. Murals in Mogao Caves depict this. By the Tang Dynasty, trade routes were smoother, making camel meat easy to get in Chang'an. Camel hump was a rare delicacy. Cen Shen mentioned eating camel meat in his poem "After Drinking at the Jiuquan Governor's Feast." Duan Chengshi's Tang Dynasty miscellany "Youyang Zazu" also mentions "General Qu Lianghan could make donkey mane and camel hump roast."

There were many ways to prepare camel meat in the shop. We hesitated. The owner was straightforward. Two girls nearby were also undecided. So we shared a table, halving the portion sizes and prices while adding more variety. Thus, a camel feast was served. Braised camel meat – taste similar to beef but with finer muscle fibers, softer and more flavorful, not dry.

Spiced camel meat – use of camel hind leg, perfect with chili oil.

My favorite was the secret recipe camel meat strips – sweet and spicy with fresh aroma, excellent texture, crispy outside and tender inside, perfectly meeting expectations.

The staple was camel meat pilaf, authentic Western Region style. I ate two bowls in one go.

Dunhuang has a high latitude; the sun sets at 8 PM. After dinner at 6 PM, we leisurely walked to the desert. We felt lucky to live by the desert, allowing us to indulge in stargazing without worrying about getting home.

Rolling sand dunes like golden waves, their soft lines give them an extraordinary charm: magnificent yet gentle, desolate yet majestic.

Walking further, you see endless sand dunes like frozen waves, rising and falling before your eyes. Under the blue sky, the vast desert stretches like an ocean. When the wind blows, the sand moves like tides, rhythmic. When the wind stops, the dune surface shows rich textures – traces of the wind.

From the entrance to Crescent Moon Spring is 2 km. You can walk, take an electric cart, or best of all, ride a camel – the true style of the Western Regions.

When shooting at Mingsha Mountain, since the reflective rate of desert and hills is similar and tones are close, if not careful with lighting, the photos will be flat and monotonous. To avoid this, shoot at sunrise or sunset with side light or backlight. At those times, the color temperature is low, tones warm, making the yellow desert deeper and the layers richer. Side and backlight help outline the contours of people and backgrounds, creating light and shadow undulations, giving photos more dimension.

If you want to take stunning desert photos to impress your friends, you can only come at sunrise or sunset.

As night deepened, the thousands of tourists scattered like birds. The people left in the desert gradually gathered, chatting from all corners. As we chatted, we realized the starry sky had already appeared.

Tonight's sky was beautiful. I helped many people take photos in the desert: couples celebrating anniversaries, students on graduation trips, a retired uncle who just bought a camera, and countless others I didn't know. Though I was treated like an old-timer, I was happy. Using my small skills to help others and hoping those photos could make their trip a little happier.

Day 7, Dunhuang - Guazhou - Jiayuguan - Zhangye

Date: DAY7, August 26

Route: Dunhuang - Guazhou - Jiayuguan - Zhangye

Activities: Dunhuang Ancient City, Dunhuang Museum, Luotuo City Ruins, Heishui Kingdom Ruins

Accommodation: Zhangye downtown hotel

Summary: In the morning, we visited Dunhuang Ancient City and Dunhuang Museum, then followed the Hexi Corridor to Zhangye, visiting Luotuo City and Heishui Kingdom ruins along the way. PS: In addition to the well-known Mogao Caves, Dunhuang's cave art includes Yulin Caves and West Thousand Buddha Caves. Both are outside Dunhuang city and far away. The biggest regret is that you cannot take photos inside the caves. If you want a photo with Mogao Caves, the only choice is to go to Dunhuang Museum, which features a 1:1 replica of the Special Cave No. 45, looking exactly like the real one. You can take photos freely. Besides this replica cave, the museum also houses 78 Dunhuang manuscripts from the Library Cave, 410 Han bamboo slips, and 1354 pieces of pottery, 95 of which are first-class cultural relics. PSS: The Hexi Corridor is an important part of the Silk Road. The main attractions are the ancient ruins along the way. There are not only well-known sites like Yangguan and Jiayuguan, but also many lesser-known but nationally protected ancient city ruins such as Xuanquanzhi, Suoyangcheng, Luotuocheng, Heishuiguo, Tianluocheng, and Matisi. There are many. If interested in history, you can visit them one by one along the Hexi Corridor. If time is limited, choose the highlights. The common feature is that currently, these ancient ruins are open and free to enter 24 hours a day. But please protect the cultural relics and never scratch or draw on them, as these are irreplaceable treasures of Chinese culture.

PSSS: Regarding our choices: yesterday, in Dunhuang area, we selected Yangguan and Hecang City. Today, on the way to Zhangye, we picked Xuanquanzhi, Luotuocheng, and Heishuiguo. Tomorrow, on the most beautiful national highway G227, we will visit Tianluocheng and Matisi. A total of seven ruins, full of cultural enrichment.

The exhibit on Dunhuang history and Silk Road cultural relics is titled "A City of Chinese and Barbarian Convergence." There aren't many places in China that can be called a city. By today's standards, Dunhuang definitely doesn't qualify. But in the long course of history, Dunhuang truly qualifies. And the phrase "Chinese and Barbarian Convergence" is quite accurate. "Chinese" needs no explanation. "Barbarian" refers to the Yuezhi, Xiongnu, Turks, Tibetans, Uighurs, Khotanese, and various Central Asian peoples that were active on this land.

Dunhuang's most brilliant period was during the Han and Tang dynasties, when the Silk Road was at its busiest. But in other historical periods, Dunhuang remained an important border town.

The most eye-catching exhibit in the entire museum is this replica of Special Cave No. 45. Cave No. 45 was excavated during the High Tang period. Inside are seven painted sculptures, four murals, and a thousand Buddhas on the ceiling. The set of one Buddha, two disciples, two Bodhisattvas, and two heavenly kings is the finest surviving Tang dynasty sculpture in Mogao Caves.

The sculptures in this cave are masterpieces of Tang dynasty Mogao sculpture, the most realistic group sculptures.

On the south wall is a mural of the Avalokitesvara Sutra, based on the Lotus Sutra's Universal Gate chapter. The scenes are rich in plot, vivid in depiction, cleverly composed, and captivating, reflecting real society of the time. It's valuable material for studying Tang social life.

On the north wall is the Amitayus Sutra mural, continuing the typical High Tang three-part composition. The painting is complete, colors brilliant, truly remarkable.

Last night, while staying at Dunhuang Villa, the TV was showing a restored high-definition version of the new "Dragon Gate Inn." Familiar faces, the same nostalgic and poetic martial arts world in the desert: the frontier town with swirling sand, the plaintive sound of Qiang flute, like a paradise for men's passion. The enchanting Jin Xiangyu, the tender and restrained Qiu Moyan, the spirited Zhou Huai'an, and the frontier inn forever buried in the desert. My heart felt like it would explode. I wanted to find such a place in Dunhuang. And it turned out someone else had the same idea. That place is Dunhuang Ancient City.

Dunhuang Ancient City is a later artificially built film studio. Familiar movies like Detective Di Renjie were filmed here. They even offer a "pretend to be a star" service. A group surrounds you, pretending to shoot a movie, and you can get a DV. Also, with many sets, girls can take desert-style photos, perfectly matching the vibe of "Dragon Gate Inn."

Costumes and props can be rented on site for 50 RMB per set. If you lack confidence in shooting yourself, you can hire a photographer in the shop, not expensive, about 100 RMB for a set.

Since everything is a movie set, the photos come out very cinematic. Girls who love beauty, don't miss this. This is the desert frontier town feeling you want.

The desert wind chases the historical changes along the Hexi Corridor. From Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions, Huo Qubing's two battles in the Hexi Corridor, to Emperor Xuan of Han establishing the Protectorate of the Western Regions; from Kumarajiva's arduous journey for the blossoming of Bodhi, to the Dharma Master Xuanzang overcoming difficulties to obtain sutras at Nalanda; from the Tang dynasty setting up the Four Garrisons of Anxi and building the new Tang Yumen Pass to open the northern Silk Road branch of the Tianshan Mountains, to the inability of the Song dynasties to manage the Northwest Silk Road, which doomed them to fall. Everything of the Hexi Corridor is engraved in my heart. The ancient cities buried in shifting sands are the only witnesses to these historical events. With them, I can see the magnificent past of Hexi. People a thousand years later should sit down quietly and listen to each ancient city tell the stories it treasures. Those past events and people are also our own past.

Leaving Dunhuang, the car headed straight southeast. Late summer, everything withers. The Qilian Mountains appear even more aloof and cold. The Hexi Corridor lies under the vast blue sky, presenting a desolate scene. Bathed in soft sunlight, we drove into the lonely desert; looking at the mottled Han Great Wall, we sought the melodious camel bells of the Silk Road. This road is the Silk Road that connected Eastern and Western civilizations.

There are many ruins along this road. One of them is Xuanquanzhi, located 1.5 km south of the Tianshuijing maintenance station on the Andun Highway. It lies in the Gobi desert, south of the Sanwei Mountain remnants (also called Huoyan Mountain), north of Xishawo. It served as a major reception and relay station for people and mail between Anxi and Dunhuang during the Han and Tang dynasties. It is 56 km east of Guazhou and 64 km west of Dunhuang. It is the earliest post station site discovered in China. Xuanquanzhi site is a square small castle with the gate facing east, surrounded by high walls, 50 meters on each side, with a corner watchtower at the southwest corner.

This Han dynasty site was discovered in 1987. Starting from 1990, archaeologists carried out a two-year excavation, discovering over 35,000 bamboo and wooden slips, 23,000 of which bear characters. Most are now collected in the Dunhuang Museum we visited this morning.

After Xuanquanzhi, we soon reached Guazhou. Because it is rich in melons, it was called Guazhou (Melon Prefecture) as early as the Spring and Autumn period. Later, during the Qing dynasty, Emperor Kangxi defeated more than 3,000 Galdan's troops at Anxi Bulongji and renamed it "Anxi," meaning "pacify the Western Regions." This name was used until 2006, when it reverted to Guazhou. Passing through Guazhou service area, we could stop briefly, buy a few boxes of cut melons for the road. They are very cheap, 2 yuan per catty, 10 yuan for a large box, and taste great.

After Guazhou, due to time, we did not visit the newly renovated Jiayuguan, which is a well-known place. We wanted to introduce some off-the-beaten-path and free places. So we set the next destination for Luotuo City, with two thousand years of history.

Time flows backward. On this ancient road, once couriers galloped with a whip against the setting sun; once merchants traveled to exchange goods; once wars raged and dynasties changed; once forests flourished, grains abundant, and livestock thrived. Vicissitudes and prosperity, solitude and bustle, history passed like smoke, leaving only distant fragments of memory.

Luotuo City was once the capital of the Northern Liang and an important town of the Tang dynasty. When we drove to the foot of the city wall, over two thousand years of history rushed at us, with intense heat mixed with some desolation. Although the ancient city experienced many rises and falls, now only broken walls stand, but from the thick walls and grand scale, you can judge its extraordinary prosperity in its time.

If I had to pick the most brilliant memory among the many Hexi Corridor ruins, it would be Luotuo City. During the Former Liang period, it became an ideal refuge for Central Plains people fleeing chaos, earning the reputation of "land of many scholars." In 385 AD, a camel caravan of 20,000 camels camped in the city, giving it its lasting connection with camels. Later, the caravan's owner, Lü Guang, established the Later Liang in Hexi. During the Later Liang, the governor of Luotuo City was Duan Ye, a scholar who, instigated by the general Juqu Mengxun, rebelled in 397 AD and elevated Luotuo City as the birthplace of the Northern Liang, becoming known as the "Northern Liang Ancient Capital." In 400 AD, along with five other Hexi commanderies, they recommended Li Hao, the Northern Liang governor of Dunhuang, as Champion General, founding the Western Liang.

But the past can only appear in memories. Whether kings or rebels, they are just records in books. Only the painted bricks in the Wei and Jin dynasty brick-chambered tombs around Luotuo City let later generations touch this history. To see the unearthed painted bricks, visit the Gansu Provincial Museum. The bricks panoramically reflect various aspects of social life during the Han and Tang: oasis farming, western hunting, transportation, singing and dancing, feasting, ancient myths, etc. A vivid history of Hexi development.

Witnessing the broken walls, the prosperity is gone. Wind and sand have leveled prosperity. Withered grass, gravel, and broken walls dominate. The city that once echoed with camel bells, war drums, bustling traffic, and merchants is forever left in the depths of history. "Old friends are gone, but the ancient city remains." Perhaps this is the sorrow of Luotuo City.

The Heishui Kingdom ruins are closest to Zhangye but were the hardest to find. We searched back and forth on National Highway 312 in Yongming Township, Ganzhou District. When we were about to give up, we suddenly saw the words "Heishui Kingdom Ruins" on a construction site on the right. Following a small path straight, we finally saw the long-awaited ancient city.

The ruins are divided into two parts, near and far, with remnants of nearby villages. Stepping onto the city wall lightly over fine sand, I feared disturbing the sleeping Heishui Kingdom. Compared to other ruins we visited, Heishui Kingdom only has vague outlines of broken walls, mostly weathered and buried by sand, unable to see the city's planning. I was glad to come at this time, with no tourists, only blue sky and white clouds and our mutual gaze with the ancient kingdom.

Gazing into the distance, like a general guarding the city. Heishui Kingdom connects Zhangye to the east and Jiuquan to the west; going north along the Heihe River leads to Juyan Lake and the Inner Mongolia Plateau; going south over the Qilian Mountains leads to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Heishui Kingdom occupied such a key position – not only a link on the east-west corridor of the Hexi Corridor but also a strategic border town ensuring the Silk Road's smooth operation.

In 121 BC, the second year of Yuanshou of Emperor Wu of Han, the commandery of Zhangye was established, meaning "extending the arm of the state to reach the Western Regions." Then large-scale migration and agricultural development began, promoting economic and cultural exchange between the Central Plains and the Western Regions. Locals called it "Old Ganzhou" or "Heishui Kingdom." But even after searching historical records, there is no mention of "Heishui Kingdom."

There are three theories about the name Heishui Kingdom. First, due to dialect changes. The ancient city of Heishui Kingdom is located on a large river beach of the Heihe River. Because the terrain is low and prone to waterlogging, locals called this area "Heishui Wo" (Black Water Nest). Over time, it was mispronounced as "Heishui Guo" (Heishui Kingdom). Second, due to "Black Xiongnu." Legend says Heishui Kingdom was built by the Xiongnu, whose skin was dark, so outsiders called them "Black Xiongnu" and their city "Heishui Kingdom." Third, named after the Heihe River. The Heihe River originates from the Qilian Mountains, the largest river in the Hexi Corridor. It is named for the black sand it carries during floods. The Heishui Kingdom area was once a vast marshland. As the lake gradually dried, a fertile plain formed. Later, the Yuezhi people migrated here, built fields, and established a capital. Because it bordered the Heishui (Black Water), it was called Heishui Kingdom. Personally, I prefer the third theory.

Heishui Kingdom, an ancient city named after water, although now mottled and decayed so classically, although time's sand has long obscured its face, although the dust of history has deprived it of prosperity, along the timeless flow of memory, you can still see seasons living inside, rivers crawling underfoot, still feel the fatigue and happiness deep within the shaded fields, still sense the ancient wind greeting the vast world.

The broken walls of Heishui Kingdom ruins stretch its desolate silhouette and stretch my threads of thought. Those incomplete turrets and city walls, the scattered bricks and tiles, were once high palace walls, imposing and spectacular. Thousands of years passed, prosperity turned into passing clouds, transforming into rich imagination, poetic reverie, misty emotions, and brilliant literary splendor in my mind, freely drifting in the vast world.

The surviving rammed earth indicates that there were once high-standard buildings. The outline of a monastery can still be seen. The stupa is in the exact center of the west end of the monastery. It is a domed stupa, consisting of a rammed earth base and a body built with adobe bricks. Inside the stupa, Song dynasty coins and eight fragments of iron container rims were unearthed, one of which bears an ancient Mongolian script.

According to the Records of the Grand Historian, Chapter of Dayuan, after most Yuezhi people moved west, "the remaining small groups that could not go protected the Qiang of the Southern Mountains, called Lesser Yuezhi." The Greater Yuezhi who migrated west established the Kushan Kingdom, which later became a great empire spanning Central Asia and the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent. The Buddhism that flourished in China was initially introduced in the Eastern Han by the Greater Yuezhi Kushan Kingdom. The Lesser Yuezhi submitted to Han. The Han dynasty even deployed Yuezhi to campaign in the Western Regions.

The battle that took place at the foot of Yanzhi Mountain in the Hexi Corridor was an epoch-making battle in Chinese history, well documented. The King of Zhelan was killed, the Prince of Luhou beheaded, and the Hunye King's commandant and chancellor captured. Thus, the city of Zhangye was established. Emperor Wu of Han's greatest achievement was completely changing the offensive-defensive relationship between the Central Plains and the Xiongnu. "If anyone offends our great Han, they will be punished no matter how far!" This resounding statement piercing through history, along with the spirit of the Great Han that floats over China, originated here.

Zhangye, a city in the Northwest, has the Longshou Mountains on the north with blue sky and white clouds, the snow-capped Qilian Mountains on the south, and a corridor plain formed by the Heihe River in the middle. At the heart of the plain stands the largest existing drum tower in the Hexi Corridor – Zhenyuan Tower. It was built in the Zhengde period of the Ming dynasty and has stood in the center of Zhangye for centuries, watching people come and go, witnessing changes, still guarding this land. Regardless of the world's changes, it stands firm, allowing the world to notice or forget it.