Seeing You Again, Still So Beautiful -- Revisiting the Qinghai-Gansu Circuit in Golden Autumn 2020

In September 2020, the weather gradually turned cooler, and the domestic epidemic was fairly well under control. Going abroad was certainly not an option. The pent-up desire for travel after being cooped up for a long time was being released. Thinking that the National Day holiday would be packed with crowds, it was better for us "retirees" to take the initiative to travel off-peak.

I had been on the Gansu-Qinghai circuit back in 2011, and later made a special trip to the Qilian Mountains. This time it was my third visit. My travel companions had never been there, and we found many new spots along the route online that we had never visited before, which was a major reason to revisit the circuit.

Considering the tremendous changes in China over the past decade, and the recent "Two Mountains" theory and poverty alleviation efforts, I imagined many places in the west would have taken on a new look, with many surprises waiting for us.

Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1: Fly from Shanghai to Xining, pick up car at Xining airport, visit Kanbula National Park, stay at Hilton Hampton Inn Xining.

Day 2: Xining - Delingha, visit Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake along the way, stay at Aike Quality Hotel Delingha.

Day 3: Delingha - Dachaidan, visit Keluke Lake and Tuosu Lake, Wusute Water Yadan, East and West Taijinar Lakes, Xiao Da Qaidam Lake, stay at Vienna Hotel Dachaidan.

Day 4: Dachaidan - Dunhuang, visit Emerald Lake, cross Dangjin Mountain, Yang Pass ruins, stay at Wansheng International Hotel Dunhuang.

Day 5: Rest in Dunhuang, visit Mogao Caves and Mingsha Mountain, stay at Wansheng International Hotel Dunhuang.

Day 6: Dunhuang - Zhangye, see the Rainbow Danxia, stay at Huachen International Hotel Zhangye.

Day 7: Rest in Zhangye, visit Pingshan Lake Grand Canyon, stay at Huachen International Hotel Zhangye.

Day 8: Zhangye - Qilian, see the autumn colors of Zhuor Mountain, stay at Qilian Hotel.

Day 9: Qilian - Xining, Xianmi National Park, stay at Hilton Hampton Inn Xining.

Day 10: Return to Shanghai.

Except for Xianmi National Park on the ninth day (because of rain and snow), everything went smoothly thanks to good weather. With ample time, the pace was not rushed, and we had two rest days in Dunhuang and Zhangye. The weather was neither hot nor cold throughout the trip, and blue skies and white clouds accompanied us, making it a delightful revisit.

Thinking back to the trip nine years ago, I was obsessed with DSLR cameras then, always carrying two cameras and different lenses (phone cameras weren't great back then). But now I basically just use a phone. Carrying a camera on a trip is actually not easy—heavy and troublesome to change lenses. As phone cameras improve, I'm increasingly reluctant to bring a DSLR. On the road, those carrying heavy camera gear are mostly enthusiasts from senior universities, while young people prefer drones. However, some scenic spots have helicopter rides and thus drones are not allowed. All photos on this trip were taken with a phone and a drone.

The road conditions were much better than nine years ago, whether national or provincial highways, and expressways even more so. There were few cars and good roads, making driving pleasant. Except for a stretch leaving Qinghai and entering Gansu near Dunhuang, there was a dirt road. The expressway beside it had been built but was not open for unknown reasons. Luckily it was only 6-7 kilometers, tolerable.

All accommodations were booked on Ctrip. Except for the hotel in Qilian which was a bit shabby, the others were very satisfactory. Compared to my first visit to the northwest, the lodging has improved dramatically. Hotels in Delingha and Dachaidan were especially pleasing.

I remember my first time in Qinghai and Gansu; places like Dachaidan, known only on maps, were not expected to have good accommodation. Now, many newly built hotels can meet basic hygienic standards, and there are even luxury ones for different needs. The northwest is drier than the south, but several hotels we stayed at had humidifiers, a pleasant surprise.

The only downside was the toilets along the way, another issue of water scarcity in the northwest. Many were pit latrines with poor hygiene. Even the eco-toilets in scenic spots didn't smell great. I hope local governments continue to improve this.

As for food, there were limited choices for non-carnivores like us. Local cuisine is mostly lamb and beef; meat-lovers would be delighted, but we struggled. Luckily, there were other options. In Delingha and Qilian County, we even found Jiangsu-Zhejiang restaurants, and the hotel in Xining had seafood on the ground floor. With developed logistics, vegetables and cuisines from all over are available. Of course, we had to try the local beef noodles.

Below are photos of various attractions.

Kanbula National Forest Park: 1.5-hour drive from Xining, free.

The park seems to be in an unmanaged state. We entered without tickets, and there was no tourist infrastructure, everything abandoned. Cars can drive in, and there are several viewing platforms overlooking Lijiaxia Reservoir. Its uniqueness lies in the combination of Danxia landforms and clear Yellow River water. The Yellow River is usually muddy, but here you can see clear, turquoise water contrasting with red mountains, spectacular under sunlight.

We didn't enter Qinghai Lake scenic area; we just drove along the lake road and viewed it from a distance. No need to waste money. Without rape flowers, the lake seemed a bit monotonous, and without a high vantage point, photos wouldn't be good. Some locals had fenced off a few remaining rapeseed flowers as photo props; I didn't know they could bloom so late. We stopped briefly at a free viewing platform, walked down to get close to the lake, and saw many waterbirds gliding.

Chaka Salt Lake: Ticket 160 yuan (includes round-trip train).

When I came to Qinghai in 2011, Chaka wasn't hyped as it is now. Back then we went to Mohe Salt Field, where cars could drive in, there were no people, and piled salt glittered in the sun.

Now things are different. Chaka is said to rival Bolivia's Salar de Uyuni. But the "Sky Mirror" effect heavily depends on weather and light, and you need colorful clothes for perfect photos. Unfortunately, none of our group were willing to model, and we don't like portraits, so we just snapped random tourists. The scenic area was crowded, people argued over train seats. No barefoot walking on the salt lake, but many ignored the rules, ruining the mood. A once peaceful salt lake now seems more about tourism than salt production. It's no longer the salt lake in my memory.

So, is developing a scenic spot good or bad?

Keluke Lake and Tuosu Lake: These are two lakes, Keluke (freshwater) and Tuosu (saltwater). They used to be free, now enclosed as a paid scenic area. You can already see them from the road along G315. Birdwatchers may come for the quiet.

East and West Taijinar Lakes: Free.

From Delingha toward Dachaidan, turn onto G315 at the junction of G215 and G315 before Dachaidan. A series of stunning landscapes appear: Xiao Da Qaidam Lake, Wusute Water Yadan, East and West Taijinar Lakes, the trending U-shaped highway, and ubiquitous Yadan landforms. We drove all the way to West Taijinar Lake, then slowly played our way back to Dachaidan.

West Taijinar Lake looks best from a drone. From above, a road seems to split the water, with the lake showing different colors on each side: one side darker, the other pale green. Many waterbirds and wild ducks are unafraid of people, approaching as if begging for food. The wind by the lake is strong, so be careful.

After seeing West Taijinar, East Taijinar seemed less impressive—only on one side of the road and not as beautiful.

Wusute Water Yadan: Ticket 60 yuan (battery car not included).

Located at Ya Lake, about 240 km west of Dachaidan, between East and West Taijinar Lakes. Unexpectedly, in this vast desert, there is such a large expanse of water, connecting together. The Yadan formations in water look like a grand fleet, very spectacular. We didn't take the battery car deeper; it's said to be another 17 km inside. If time permits, this place deserves a whole day.

Xiao Da Qaidam Lake: Free.

Close to Dachaidan, on the side of G215. Many waterbirds unafraid of people wait for tourists to feed them.

We saw many lakes along the way—freshwater but mostly saltwater—their colors breathtaking. The roadside scenery was refreshing for city dwellers. G315, with its undulating terrain forming a U-shape, entices tourists to take daring photos in the middle of the road, terrifying drivers.

Emerald Lake (Feicui Lake): Currently free.

12 km from Dachaidan, named for its emerald-clear water. Its formal name is Yike Qaidam Lake, also known as Dachaidan Lake. It's a saltwater lake, currently free. But a parking lot has been built and a small train is ready; fees will likely be charged soon. We could drive in, following a one-way route.

This lake also looks best from a drone. Our group agreed it outshines Chaka Salt Lake. With proper light and angle, it too can be a Sky Mirror.

Finally, we entered Gansu. Mogao Caves and Mingsha Mountain are famous spots, no need to elaborate. We visited them nine years ago, so we didn't go this time. According to our companions who did, the sites are now better organized. At Mogao, you first watch a digital film about its history, then a guide takes you to different caves based on your ticket type.

Zhangye's premier attraction is the Rainbow Danxia; we'd already seen it, so I won't repeat.

I recommend another spot in Zhangye:

Pingshan Lake Grand Canyon: Ticket 130 yuan (camel riding not included).

Its slogan "Comparable to the Grand Canyon" – I didn't know about it on my first visit. According to staff, it was discovered in 2012 and developed in 2014. Only one-tenth of the entire area has been developed.

Three routes are available. We chose the shortest and most challenging full-hiking route. The other two are easier but longer, with camel rides and vehicles (extra cost).

Our route included climbing two vertical steel ladders about 60 meters high. 60 meters sounds manageable, but it felt like 200! If you're not fit, don't push it. There's also a narrow "One Line Sky" section; overweight people might get stuck.

Best to enter after 4 PM when the light is best. Without sunlight, the scenery suffers. We visited the Grand Canyon in the US last year. To compare, I'd say each has its merits.

Zhuor Mountain: Ticket 80 yuan.

Driving east along National Highway 227 toward Qilian. NH227 is one of China's most beautiful highways, best in rapeseed season. In autumn, the golden Qilian Mountains are stunning. Turning onto Provincial Road 302 in Qilian County is breathtaking.

Zhuor Mountain Scenic Area is in Qilian County. You can hike up the boardwalk to viewing platforms, where you see red Danxia, and in the distance the snow-capped Niuxin Mountain (Tibetan name: Ami Dongsuo).

Our final leg was Xianmi National Park. Starting from Qilian in the rain, it later began to snow. We unanimously decided not to go, returning directly to Xining. The autumn colors along the way, veiled in rain, snow, and mist, had a unique beauty.

This ten-day trip revealed an even more beautiful northwest than before. Haixi Prefecture still has many places worth another visit, like Ai Ken Spring in Mangya.