Approaching Dunhuang's Millennial Splendid Culture in 2020, Pursuing the Three-Thousand-Year Vigil of the Populus Euphratica Forest
D1-10.11: Shanghai-Dunhuang, taste Dunhuang cuisine
D2-10.12: Ancient costume photography in Dunhuang Ancient City, visit Crescent Moon Spring at Mingsha Mountain, enjoy the 'See Dunhuang Again' performance
D3-10.13: Pay homage to Mogao Caves, visit Dunhuang Museum
D4-10.14: Dunhuang-Jiayuguan (by train), experience the 'First Pass Under Heaven' outside the fortress
D5-10.15: Self-drive Jiayuguan-Ejin Banner, enter Ruoshui Populus Euphratica Forest, Heicheng Ruins, wait for sunset at the Strange Woods
D6-10.16: From Bridge One to Bridge Eight, immerse in the embrace of Ejin Banner's Populus Euphratica Forest
D7-10.17: Wait for sunrise at Juyan Lake, self-drive Ejin Banner-Alxa Left Banner
D8-10.18: Self-drive Alxa Left Banner-Yinchuan, visit Ningxia Imperial Tombs, wander in Zhenbeibu Western Film Studio, seek the night scene of Tuanjie Road
D9-10.19: Self-drive Yinchuan-Qingtongxia-Zhongwei, circle the 108 Pagodas of Qingtongxia, explore the No. 66网红 road at Beichangtan
D10-10.20: Play at Shapotou, experience 'Flying to Prosperity', self-drive Zhongwei-Lanzhou
D11-10.21: Walk on the Yellow River Iron Bridge, climb Baitashan Park, eat Lanzhou pulled noodles, return Lanzhou-Shanghai
Without reaching the northwest, one cannot know the vastness of heaven and earth; without arriving in Dunhuang, one cannot know the splendor of the Western Regions. Dunhuang, a county-level city under the administration of Jiuquan City, Gansu Province, has always been an important town on the Silk Road. Apart from a 1,400-square-kilometer oasis, 95% is desert and Gobi. There are no beautiful mountains and waters, but it carries a thousand years of cultural heritage, blending the simplicity of the Northwest and the mystery of the Western Regions, exuding a powerful and vigorous aura everywhere. Ejin Banner is even more legendary, with the mysterious Xixia Heicheng ruins, the majestic and tragic Strange Woods, and the magnificent Populus Euphratica Forest that has waited for three thousand years, making it a paradise for photographers and a holy land for travelers. With longing for Dunhuang and Ejin Banner, in the most beautiful golden autumn of October, we set off again for the Northwest to continue our unfinished journey.
October 11
Make full use of Spring Airlines' 'Fly as You Wish' pass, stopover in Lanzhou and fly directly to Dunhuang. Arriving in Dunhuang in the afternoon, the hotel provides free airport pickup. Before dinner, we have settled in the hotel and have time to stroll along the nearby Danghe River. Unexpectedly, in the extremely arid Dunhuang, there is such a beautiful waterfront promenade. In the distance, white clouds drift, sand mountains appear faintly, the river water is clear, and two rows of tall and straight white poplars on the bank stretch straight into the sky. It turns out that the oasis in the desert is also so charming!
As night falls, it is very convenient to call a taxi in Dunhuang via Didi. Following the reputation, we find Jingyuan Ga Liu Delicious Lamb near Shazhou Paradise. The place is packed with guests, famous for hand-grabbed white strips and Hu sheep stewed pancake. The shop owner enthusiastically gives us apricot peel water. The hand-grabbed white strips are tender and without gamey smell, incredibly delicious when dipped in chili powder. The sand onion in the scrambled eggs with sand onion is very refreshing. Apricot peel water is Dunhuang's signature drink, made from the locally abundant fruit Li Guang apricot, boiled from apricot peel, with a sweet and sour taste when iced.
Stewed pancake is a typical representative of Dunhuang's food culture development, the most important dish for entertaining guests. Local custom says that if you are looking for a Dunhuang girl, and the first time you visit her father, he treats you to 'stewed pancake', then your relationship is basically settled. When the dish is served, we are puzzled why there is no pancake but only noodles. The shop owner quickly comes to explain that the locals call this wide noodle 'pancake'. The wide noodle fully absorbs the delicious sauce of the lamb, extremely flavorful.
October 12
Today's first stop is to fulfill a female warrior dream at Dunhuang Ancient City. Dunhuang Ancient City (ticket 35 yuan/person), also known as Dunhuang Film Studio, is 20 kilometers from downtown Dunhuang, bordering the Gobi oasis to the east, Mingsha Mountain to the south, Han Dynasty beacon towers to the west, and the vast desert to the north. Its scale is not large, built based on the Song Dynasty's 'Along the River During the Qingming Festival' and designed after Shazhou Ancient City. It is actually a semi-abandoned film studio, full of yellow sand and desolation. In the distance, cold weapons can be seen placed under the city wall, logs used to ram the city gate, and some catapults. There are very few tourists in the ancient city, perfect for photography. At the ancient costume experience hall 'Tang and Han Style', we change costumes (60 yuan/person), one person one horse (20 yuan), one fan, one sword, one wine pot. Yellow sand fills the sky, earthy walls and gray tiles, scenes from movies are recreated before our eyes. This is my martial arts dream, where I can roam freely. When the dream awakens, we find there is no bus back to the city from the ancient city. Fortunately, the shop owner helps us by driving us to Mingsha Mountain, solving our predicament.
After the morning shoot, the sun is blazing. We find a bustling restaurant, Xu Ji, on the food street at the entrance of Mingsha Mountain to try donkey meat yellow noodles. This is also a famous dish in Dunhuang. The sauced donkey meat is rich and thick, the yellow noodles are chewy, the mushroom gravy is rich and flavorful, but not breathtaking. However, the meat sandwich is a pleasant surprise, spicy and crispy, addictive.
Entering Mingsha Mountain (ticket 110 yuan/person), the magnificent camel caravan is breathtaking. The camels are cute, but I have no interest in joining the riding crowd. I just watch the caravan winding slowly in the distance. We continue on foot towards Crescent Moon Spring.
Along the way, the sand is fine and soft, the mountain shapes are graceful, looking like a coiled dragon from afar. When the strong wind rises, it makes a sound. The wind of the northern frontier has blown for thousands of years, but Dunhuang's charm has not been blown away. Instead, like aged wine, it becomes more and more intoxicating with the accumulation of years. Standing under the scorching sun and looking up at Mingsha Mountain, you feel that the dunes, sand ridges, and sand peaks here are alive. Golden and magnificent before your eyes, pure yellow, soft lines, clear contours, so stunning. The reeds flutter, the sunlight shines on the reed marsh, the breeze rises, and the wishing plaques under the corridor sway gently.
The world-famous 'First Spring Under Heaven' has nestled in the embrace of Mingsha Mountain for thousands of years. Mountain and spring coexist, sand and water coexist, but it is not covered by drifting sand. It remains rippling and clear, like an emerald inlaid in the golden dunes. It neither overflows after long rain nor dries up after long drought. It is praised as one of the wonders beyond the Great Wall. A clear spring, crystal clear, resembles a crescent moon, or a teardrop from a fairy. Especially when the golden sand mountain is reflected in the spring, it is like a dream.
The pavilions by Crescent Moon Spring are richly ornamented, majestic and magnificent. Although aged, they are still splendid, complementing Crescent Moon Spring. The surrounding ancient willows have weathered storms and centuries, their trunks withered but bark alive, still witnessing the mountain and spring's embrace. This scene is moving. Even the wild white fox has recently come, often stopping on the top of the sand mountain silently looking at everything. Could it be Bai Qian, moved by this eternal love?
To see the most beautiful panoramic view of Crescent Moon Spring, you need to climb high. Climbing sand dunes is completely different from climbing mountains. The quicksand is very soft. One step may sink to the calf. One step forward, half a step back. Thanks to the wooden ladder, we finally stand on the high sand slope, feeling the desolation and vastness of the Northwest desert. In the distance, the sand surface untouched by humans, under the oblique light, is like fish scales. Some small animal left fine footprints on the sand. At the end of the soft yellow sand is the receding silhouette of the camel caravan, bidding farewell to the setting sun...
Recently reminiscing about Dunhuang, I became obsessed with the program 'Dunhuang Show'. Among them, the figures of beautiful women in flying apsaras costume in the sunset at Mingsha Mountain amazed everyone. That is the most perfect interpretation of Dunhuang culture! (Image borrowed from the internet)
At night, the star of Dunhuang is none other than 'See Dunhuang Again' (298 yuan/person, including pickup and drop-off). On the outskirts of Dunhuang, there is a uniquely shaped sunken building. The exterior is covered with blue glass crystals, like a drop of water in the desert. This is the performance theater for 'See Dunhuang Again'. The chief director is Wang Chaoge. The 'Impression' series and 'See Again' series created with Zhang Yimou have long been deeply rooted in people's hearts. It is said that since its debut in September 2016, 'See Dunhuang Again' has been nearly full for every show, with a record of 11 consecutive performances in one day. Tourists praise the performance highly, showing its popularity.
Many people suggest doing homework before visiting the Mogao Caves. So why not watch 'See Dunhuang Again' first? It takes Dunhuang culture as its theme, vividly recreating the thousand-year glory of the Mogao Caves and the legendary stories of the Silk Road. Using a globally unique 'immersive' situational theater performance technology, with ever-changing lights and superb performances by the actors, the audience is gradually taken to the distant past under the visual impact of each scene. In the 90-minute performance, the audience is no longer the audience but historical witnesses who have traveled back in time, as if personally experiencing Dunhuang's thousand-year history and witnessing the profound Dunhuang art. It is extremely shocking, as the saying goes: 'When you bend down and pick up a handful of yellow sand, the story will be in your palm. Brushing away the sand, see Dunhuang again.'
October 13
China has four major grottoes: Yungang Grottoes in Shanxi, Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang, Maijishan Grottoes in Tianshui, and Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang. Mogao Grottoes are synonymous with Dunhuang, commonly known as the 'Thousand Buddha Caves'. They were built in the former Qin period of the Sixteen Kingdoms, with a history of over 1,650 years. Through ten dynasties of construction, there are now 735 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals, and 2,415 painted clay sculptures. It is a large grotto complex integrating painting, sculpture, and architecture. The caves are densely distributed on a cliff surface about 2 kilometers long from north to south. It is the largest and richest Buddhist art site in the world, internationally known as the 'Museum on the Wall', 'the Longest Art Gallery in the World', and called 'China's Louvre'.
Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes is the first scenic spot in China to require real-name reservation, and you must make a reservation one month in advance (normally choose A-type ticket for 238 yuan/person, including two movies and eight caves). Scientific demonstration shows that receiving 6,000 visitors per day is the most reasonable range. This visiting method is the best care for this weathered Mogao Grottoes. Don't rush into the scenic area. First, let's understand the background history of Dunhuang through the documentary 'Millennium Dunhuang'. 'Dreamy Buddha Palace' uses dome screen film technology to showcase the splendid and gorgeous Buddhist art of Mogao Grottoes. The 180-degree ultra-wide-angle realistic images shot by fisheye lens, combined with omnidirectional stereo sound effects, make the audience feel as if they are in a beautiful Buddha world.
After watching the movie, take a bus for about 15 minutes to reach the core area of Mogao Grottoes. Line up and group. The scenic area plans according to the number of visitors that day, reasonably diverting visitors based on cave temperature, humidity and other indicators. Each group is assigned a guide who randomly leads the visit to eight caves. They carry keys and must lock the cave after the visit before leaving. Over the centuries, Mogao Grottoes have suffered collapse, wind erosion, water seepage, degradation, and human damage. Once desolate and dilapidated, due to cultural relic protection, only a small number of caves are now open to the public in rotation. These are just a fraction of Mogao caves, not truly representing the artistic achievement of Mogao, but even eight caves are quite ceremonial. Many caves cannot see light. The so-called visit is conducted in complete darkness, only relying on the guide's flashlight, pointing where to look. Due to time constraints, we can only glance briefly in each cave and cannot take photos or videos.
Entering the caves feels like traveling through time. The history, culture, art, and secular life scenes of various dynasties come rushing in. It is not only a Buddhist holy site but also a microcosm of China's thousands of years of history and culture, a palace of art and beauty, a significant stroke in Chinese culture. Whether colorful murals or vivid Buddha statues, each has a legendary story behind it. It has accumulated the wind and sand of over a thousand years, supporting the weight of over a thousand years. The exquisite flying apsaras on the murals appear in different postures before us, shocking us with the profound and brilliant ancient Chinese culture.
Besides the eight caves (Cave 25/Song dynasty, Cave 29/Late Tang, Cave 331/Early Tang, Cave 292/Sui, the remaining four caves will be highlighted later), we later followed the B-type ticket crowd to visit two more caves (Cave 138/Late Tang, Cave 148 will be highlighted later). (Some images borrowed from the internet)
One of the representative caves from the early Tang dynasty. The statues inside the niche have been repainted in the Qing dynasty, losing their original Tang appearance. The mural 'Zhang Qian's Mission to the Western Regions' on the north wall is valuable material for studying the history of the Silk Road and Sino-foreign cultural exchanges. There is a blank space in the center of the south wall, a trace left after Americans used chemical adhesive to remove murals in 1924.
Caves 16-17
Built in the late Tang dynasty. The discovery of this cave marks the beginning of Mogao's world fame. Cave 16 is one of the existing large caves. Near the north wall, there is a rectangular meditation bed on the ground, with the eminent monk Hongbian sitting on it. This statue is one of the representative works of Dunhuang clay sculptures. Hongbian had a significant influence as the head of Buddhist affairs in the Hexi region during Tibetan rule. The three-story building outside Cave 16 was built by the Daoist priest Wang Yuanlu in 1906. The world-famous Dunhuang 'Library Cave' - Mogao Cave 17 was discovered here.
Around the early 11th century, for reasons not yet known such as dynastic change or war, over 50,000 relics including Buddhist sutras, paintings, ritual implements, and other religious and secular documents were secretly stored in this cave. The entrance was walled up and covered with murals. The Library Cave was sealed for over 900 years in the desert. In 1900, this secret chamber was accidentally discovered by Daoist Wang while clearing sand from Mogao. The quantity of documents and artifacts unearthed from the Library Cave was astonishing and rare worldwide. Dunhuang manuscripts, together with Yinxu oracle bones, Ming and Qing archives, and Juyan bamboo slips, are known as the four major discoveries in Chinese archaeology at the end of the 19th century. Sadly, from 1905 to 1915, foreigners came one after another and fraudulently bought nearly 40,000 documents, scriptures, and other artifacts from Wang at low prices. Most of the treasures from the Dunhuang Library Cave were thus lost overseas.
Built during the Five Dynasties period under the supervision of Cao Yuanzhong, mainly dedicated to Manjushri Bodhisattva, also the Cao family cave. It is the largest area Mogao cave, but Cave 61 is famous not for Manjushri but for the 'Map of Mount Wutai' on the west wall. This is the largest landscape figure painting in Dunhuang murals and the largest panoramic historical map. It is the largest unified theme mural in Mogao. The painting is based on the real geography and life of Mount Wutai in the Tang dynasty. The whole painting is 13.4 meters long, grand in scale and majestic in momentum. It is the largest Buddhist historical painting in Mogao. It details the geographical features, mountain and river scenery, and local customs of an area 250 kilometers from Taiyuan, Shanxi, through Mount Wutai to Zhenzhou, Hebei. The formation of Manjushri faith at Mount Wutai is a typical example of the Sinicization of Buddhism. This Sinicized Buddhism represented by Manjushri faith influenced the Dunhuang area and affected the development of Buddhism in the Western Regions.
Built in the early Tang dynasty. The red wooden eaves outside the cave are 45 meters high, built against the cliff, majestic. It is a grand nine-story pavilion, commonly known as the Nine-Story Building. It is the largest building in Mogao and its landmark. Inside the cave, there is a giant 'Future Buddha' Maitreya statue sculpted against the cliff, the 'successor' of Sakyamuni Buddha. It is 35.5 meters tall, the largest statue in Dunhuang caves. In ancient statues, its height is second only to the Leshan Giant Buddha (sitting height 62 meters) and the Rongxian Giant Buddha (36.67 meters). This indoor clay giant Buddha ranks first in the country. The construction and completion of this cave is a great achievement in Mogao history and a symbol of national strength, social stability, and economic prosperity in the early Tang dynasty.
Built in the High Tang period, one of the large caves of Mogao. On the central altar, there is a statue of Sakyamuni in parinirvana. Nirvana refers to the highest state where Sakyamuni at eighty years old attains non-birth and non-death, eternal joy, self, and purity. This nirvana statue has its head south, feet north, facing east, lying on its right side with its hand under its head, legs extended and crossed. The face is full, eyes slightly closed, robe soft, changing with the body's contours, looking peacefully asleep. It is 14.40 meters long, making it the second largest nirvana statue in Mogao. Behind the nirvana statue, there are many statues of bodhisattvas, monks, and celestial beings, all restored in the Qing dynasty. Special Cave 158 is similar but slightly smaller, yet it is an original Tang work and the most exquisite reclining Buddha in the caves.
Time has given Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes the greatest gift: one by one statues, murals, and historical texts gathered here. Visiting Mogao is like traveling through time and space, bringing us cultural baptisms. Leaving the cave area, across the bridge, the 'Mogao Grottoes Conservation and Research Center' has several replica caves worth seeing, especially Cave 285.
Built during the Datong era of the Western Wei dynasty, it is the earliest cave in Dunhuang with a precise construction date. The main chamber is a caisson-top cave with a square plan. The upper section features 11 flying apsaras playing musical instruments. The middle section features the story of '500 Bandits Achieving Buddhahood'. The lower section has four small meditation chambers. Between the chambers, from east to west, are story paintings such as 'The Novice Monk's Self-immolation for Maintaining Precepts'. The expressions, either long scrolls or single paintings, use classic composition and vivid figures to condense complex Buddhist stories into simple visual images. It is recognized as the richest cave in early Mogao in terms of content.
Returning to the city, still not satisfied, we continue to the Dunhuang Museum (free). The over a thousand exhibited artifacts exude their unique charm in a clever panoramic layout. Each piece is a 'business card' of Dunhuang, a treasure, a delicate key to open the door to Dunhuang, letting people enter, understand, and love Dunhuang. Especially the replica of Cave 45. Although not a real cave, the replica has lights shining on it, making every detail clearly visible, brilliant and resplendent. It is definitely the most attractive spot in the Dunhuang Museum. Most commendably, you can freely take photos in this replica cave without worrying about damaging the artifacts.
One of the representative caves of the High Tang period. The main wall has a flat-topped wide-mouth niche. Inside the niche are the main Buddha, the disciples Ananda and Kasyapa, the attendant bodhisattvas, the Southern Growth Heavenly King, and the Northern Many Ears Heavenly King, a group of seven painted clay statues. Their vivid and lifelike statues and the finely detailed figures in the murals vividly depict the different identities and inner characters of Buddha and his disciples: the solemnity of Buddha, the humility of the disciples, the grace of the bodhisattvas, and the majesty of the heavenly kings are all appropriately displayed.
At the museum, we also have the chance to enjoy the exhibition of Dunhuang art silk designer Fan Yanyan. She uses Dunhuang culture as her source, presenting art works perfectly on everyday items. Over a hundred series of works, including silk scarves, handbags, dresses, and umbrellas, bring the cultural treasures along the Silk Road to life. The 'aesthetics' frozen in the museum breathe on everyday objects and flow in vibrant life.
If Mogao Caves are the soul of Dunhuang, then the Dunhuang Night Market is definitely the most down-to-earth place in this small town. When you see the statue of the Apsara playing the pipa behind her back, you have reached the entrance of the night market. For two consecutive nights, we look for various snacks at the popular Shazhou Food Station. Among them, the sand onion beef pie always has a long queue. It is said to be refreshing and full of flavor, but we don't have the patience to wait long in the cold night, so we never know its true charm.
October 14
Take the bullet train from Dunhuang directly to Jiayuguan City. This is a typical steel industrial city, with signs of Jiuquan Iron and Steel everywhere. Here we wait for our old friend, Brother Guo from Mingtu Travel, who is driving from Xining to join us. Tomorrow we head to Ejin Banner. In the afternoon, with nothing to do, we first take a bus to walk near the fortress. The city walls on both sides of Jiayuguan Pass cross the desert and Gobi, connecting to the Black Mountain Hanging Great Wall in the north and the First Pier in the south. It is the westernmost pass of the Ming Great Wall. Historically, it was called the throat of Hexi. Because of its strategic terrain and majestic architecture, it is known as the 'First Majestic Pass Under Heaven' and 'Key to the Border'. It was a traffic fortress on the ancient Silk Road and is known as one of the three great wonders of the Great Wall (Shanhaiguan in the east, Zhenbeitai in the center, Jiayuguan in the west) (image borrowed from the internet).
At the foot of the Jiayuguan city wall, there is a structure imitating the Great Wall pass - the Jiayuguan Great Wall Museum (free). It is dignified, solemn, and simple. The main building is shaped like a beacon tower, just like beacons facing each other and the Great Wall connecting. This is the first museum in China to comprehensively and systematically display the Great Wall culture, known as the textbook of Great Wall culture. The museum's oil painting 'The Great Wall Panorama' condenses the main scenes of the Great Wall into one scroll. The area of the oil painting is the largest in the Northwest.
The ticket for Jiayuguan is quite tricky, sold as a combined ticket, bundling Jiayuguan Pass, Hanging Great Wall, and First Pier together. These three attractions are far apart. The most absurd thing is that the scenic area does not provide shuttle buses. Too lazy to complain, I don't plan to enter the pass, just wander around the Jiuyanquan Lake at the foot of the city wall. Hundreds of years ago, Jiuyanquan was rippling. Now, the lake of hundreds of square meters has shrunk to only tens of square meters. A large area of exposed lakebed is severely salinized. Large reeds sway in the autumn wind. The suspension bridge between the shore and the pavilion in the lake is rusty due to long disuse. The weeds under the bridge are as high as the bridge deck. The low city wall seems easy to jump over. I wonder if such a low wall can resist foreign invasion?!
October 15
From Jiayuguan to Ejin Banner, first expressway then national highway, passing the Jiuquan Satellite Launch Center. Through the car window, we can see the towers and launch pads on the Gobi from afar. Under strong sunlight, the Gobi surface vaguely seems to have lake water, shimmering. Actually, this is an illusion, called a mirage in the Gobi. There is neither sea nor building, all caused by light refraction. Deep in the Gobi, there are occasionally hidden military facilities, extremely mysterious (image borrowed from the internet).
Ejin Banner's Populus Euphratica Forest is one of the only three natural riverine Populus Euphratica forests in the world today, an important barrier preventing the Badain Jaran Desert from spreading north. Populus euphratica is cold-resistant, drought-tolerant, salt-alkali tolerant, and wind-resistant, a tenacious life in confrontation with the desert. It sprouts seedlings from the roots, striving to root deeply for moisture, even changing its shape to resist wind and sand. Facing the harsh desert environment, Populus euphratica still grows accordingly. It is precisely its existence that adds a touch of bright yellow to the monotonous desert.
In the afternoon, we finally arrive at the Heicheng Ruoshui Populus Euphratica Scenic Area (200 yuan/person). This consists of three parts: Ruoshui Populus Euphratica Forest, Heishui Ancient City, and Strange Woods. Fully utilizing the natural advantage of the Ruoshui River with a length of ten kilometers and a width of 800 meters, it creates a natural beauty of 'five forests, two islands, seven bridges'. Autumn dyes the leaves gold, the Populus Euphratica forest closely integrates with the Ruoshui River, forming the 'most beautiful Populus Euphratica Forest' in Ejin Banner. It is endowed with the love theme of 'Of three thousand waters, I only take one scoop' and the eternal tenderness of 'Populus euphratica is charming, trapped in Ruoshui's love'.
Five Forests: Riverside Rainbow Forest, God Tree Blessing Forest, Desert Magic Forest, Life Oil Painting Forest, Desert Camel Shadow Forest
Two Islands: Ruoshui Golden Sand Island, Love Heart Island
Seven Bridges: Ruoshui First Bridge (Welcome Bridge), Ruoshui Second Bridge (Lock Love Bridge/Rainbow Bridge), Ruoshui Third Bridge (Reflection Bridge), Ruoshui Fourth Bridge (Love Trestle Bridge), Ruoshui Fifth Bridge (Marriage Bridge), Ruoshui Sixth Bridge (Sunrise Sunset Bridge), Ruoshui Seventh Bridge (Submerged Bridge)
Different forests in Ruoshui Populus Euphratica showcase different Populus euphratica styles, suitable for poetic slow walking. It is worth taking enough time. If you have enough energy, it is recommended to give up the sightseeing car and walk all the way. Along the Ruoshui River, tourists are everywhere. Several wooden bridges of different styles span the river. Crossing the Rainbow Bridge, the first thing that comes into view is 'Ruoshui Golden Sand Island'. Under the sun, the Ruoshui River shimmers. Golden Populus euphratica trees nestle by the river in various postures, like a natural art palace, with twisted roots and varied shapes. Some are vigorous, some graceful, some stand tall, some are charming.
Floating sand in water, sand islands, trees growing on islands, trees and sand forming a forest, a grand spectacle. Walking into the depths of the sea of sand with few tourists, between heaven and earth, within the sea of sand, clouds drift thousands of miles, forests gradually turn gold. The Populus euphratica here have dragon-like bones and twisting branches, ghostly shadows, new sprouts from old branches, broken arms growing new branches, like the phoenix reborn from fire. Compared with the Populus euphratica by the water, they are less bright but more desolate.
Passing by the Zushengchagan Tree, it is revered as the 'God Tree', over 1,270 years old. Many red and blue ribbons are tied on it. It is said that many local herdsmen come to pray for their families during traditional festivals. Whenever someone prays, the leaves on the tree rustle in response, strengthening people's longing for the beautiful.
Through the achnatherum grassland, we walk deeper into the Populus euphratica forest. Occasionally, a patch of blue water appears. The reflection of the handsome Populus euphratica by the lake in the tranquil waters is like a group of elegant ladies looking at themselves in a mirror, charming. Legend says that with the Populus euphratica forest as the background and water as the mirror, everyone who looks down at the water will see the most important person in their heart.
Walking along the boardwalk deep inside, the boardwalk is empty of people. The hidden Populus euphratica forest here is incredibly beautiful. On both sides of the boardwalk, large tracts of Populus euphratica forest show dazzling golden yellow, together with the blue sky, painting a bright and magical autumn oil painting, exceptionally brilliant, almost unreal. Every shot is a masterpiece, no filter needed. It can be called the 'finishing touch' of the entire scenic area. This is the 'Life Oil Painting Forest'. Walking through it, it feels like stepping into an oil painting world, reluctant to leave.
Leaving the Oil Painting Forest, we arrive at Love Heart Island, a small island shaped like a heart, quietly embedded in the blue lake. The lake is clear, Populus euphratica stands by the shore, lush and golden... People who come here are willing to leave their footprints symbolizing love, take photos to express their cherishing of each other, letting this lake witness their love.
Leaving Love Heart Island, we see Heishui Ancient City. This is a replica built according to the 1:1 scale of the Heicheng ruins, following the principle of 'repairing the old as old'. But it lacks any historical atmosphere. Instead, there are snacks sold everywhere inside, noisy, making people unwilling to stay long. Only the few pagodas on the northwest city wall can make me stop for a while. The tallest pagoda is 12 meters high, a unique symbol of Heicheng. The stupa-shaped pagoda, also called Lama pagoda, is a unique architectural form of Tibetan Buddhism. Each layer structure expresses a religious meaning. The top of the pagoda is carved with many round wheels, and a parasol and a crescent moon jewel are placed. Heishui City was an important border fortress of the Xixia dynasty in the northwest and a key post station on the Hexi Corridor. Once, Heishui City had lush water and grass, with rivers and lakes everywhere. However, around the Sui dynasty, it was gradually surrounded by wind and sand, eventually buried under endless yellow sand, leaving only this most complete and largest ancient city ruins on the northern line of the ancient Silk Road, accompanied by the fine sand underfoot... Before the sun sets, we quickly take a sightseeing car to the Strange Woods!
'Live a thousand years without dying, stand a thousand years after death, lie a thousand years after falling.' In the Strange Woods, large patches of withered branches and rotten wood lie, stand, or still tower on the vast desert, strange shapes, myriad expressions. Some are upright, some are like dragons leaping, changing various postures singing a tragic desert elegy. Legend says these are the undying souls of the Black General of Heicheng and the soldiers defending the city, the concentration of their beliefs in the last moment before death. Some of these Populus euphratica are not even dead. Although the branches and trunks seem lifeless, leaves still sprout at the tips, enduring countless sandstorms, but life continues, blooming in this place with annual precipitation less than 40 mm. This is the true willpower of the 'three-thousand-year Populus euphratica spirit'. In the vast desert with long smoke, the upright remains of Populus euphratica, some shaped like roosters, some like baby elephants, some like frozen moments of heroes dying on the ancient battlefield. There are generals pointing swords forward, soldiers charging fearlessly. In recent years, due to ecological improvement, some dead Populus euphratica branches have even grown new shoots. The miracle of 'life and death cycle, nirvana rebirth' is happening... Life and death depend on each other, never abandon. People give sweet names to some uniquely shaped branches, fully exerting their imagination, endowing them with strong emotions!
The sky darkens, the angle of sunlight gets lower, while the shadows of trees get longer. The intertwining of light and shadow becomes more frequent. The most beautiful moment of the day in the Strange Woods is approaching. Looking along the light, the light blue and purplish red sky becomes the best canvas for the dead Populus euphratica. Slightly changing the angle, they can present the most wonderful and peculiar postures, staying in this picture.
The sky is no longer purely blue. From the western edge, golden color gradually spreads across the sky. The photography show officially begins. The dead Populus euphratica, against the light, seem like monsters clawing in the sky. The dark tentacle shadows give a visual impact of death and desolation. Until it is almost pitch black in front of us, we reluctantly walk towards the exit. At the exit, a shuttle bus takes us back to the parking lot.
October 16
If not for Zhang Yimou's 'Hero' filming here, the stunning beauty of Ejin might still only exist in photographers' films. Nowadays, the Populus Euphratica Forest has become the most vivid imprint of Ejin, even synonymous with golden autumn. In the short twenty days around National Day Golden Week, a large number of tourists pour in, directly causing the town with a permanent population of only 25,000 to have a severe shortage of rooms, prices sky-high, and reception conditions very average. After careful selection, we find a decent homestay not far from the Populus Euphratica Forest scenic area. The conditions are not great, but it is warm and clean, with hot dishes every day and sweet-to-the-point-of-cloying Hami melons.
We spend the whole day in this scenic area, our top priority - Ejin Populus Euphratica Forest (ticket 150 yuan/person, additional fee for Bridge Eight). However, the terrible crowds and extremely poor management disappoint us. Compared to yesterday's Ruoshui Populus Euphratica Forest, it even seems inferior. The Ejin River, formed by the confluence of the Heishui and Baishui rivers, has a bridge every two to three kilometers. There are eight bridges in total, each with different scenery. Walking through it is like walking through a flowing golden ocean.
From Bridge One to Bridge Four, we insist on walking. The boardwalk is full of people, especially groups of middle-aged women wearing uniform red long skirts and scarves, performing various difficult poses in the crowd, making me speechless. Unless you point the lens at the sky, it's hard to capture pure Populus euphratica scenery. Only by going into remote corners can we occasionally find a good spot. Under the sun, the golden leaves dance in the wind against the blue sky. The strong contrast and bright colors render any language powerless. Picking up a handful of fallen leaves and throwing them into the air, using slow motion to appreciate how the golden leaves surround you.
The Populus euphratica at Bridge One and Bridge Two are not as thick and vigorous as at Bridge Four, but because of the water, they have a different soft beauty. In the clear autumn water, golden reflections appear. On the road from Bridge Three to Bridge Four, there is a large area of low tamarisk, also quite spectacular when continuous.
Feixue and Ruyue, dressed in red, fight in the air with golden Populus euphratica leaves flying all around. This scene from the movie 'Hero' was filmed at Bridge Four, hence the name Hero Forest (image borrowed from the internet).
Most tourists take the sightseeing car to the core area of Bridge Four. Only those who, like us, hike through can encounter the truly silent and magnificent Populus euphratica forest. Here, the tree trunks are thick, branches are lush and vigorous, shapes are uncanny, and the spirit is bold and unruly. Continuous Populus euphratica create boundless golden waves, dazzling. Sitting on any branch, you can enjoy for a long time without wanting to leave. You can also occasionally capture cute little donkeys and silly camels up close. Sunlight falls through the gaps in the forest, dotting the ground. The autumn wind rises, the golden leaves of Populus euphratica flutter and fall to the ground, covering it like a golden carpet, magnificent and solemn, making me unable to resist directly lying on it...
Bridge Seven is where the Populus euphratica leaves turn yellow earliest, the beginning of blooming brilliant life in golden autumn. After arriving at the entrance by sightseeing car, you need to hike 2.5 kilometers one way. There is also a small area of water where you can take reflections. Unfortunately, the Populus euphratica here are relatively thin, not as tall and thick, and the water is not as clear. It is already the end of golden autumn. Some trees have lost all their leaves, looking somewhat desolate.
Bridge Eight is the closest to the Badain Jaran Desert, the third largest desert in the world. It is also a station where you have to transfer sightseeing cars. We only enjoy it from the car, seeing patches of blue water at the edge of the desert, reeds swaying in the breeze, and countless tourists still bustling!
October 17
Bleary-eyed, we rush in the dark to Juyan Lake (80 yuan/person), just to chase the brilliant sunrise. Along the way, the lights of fellow cars form a long line. When we arrive at the scenic area, there are crowds everywhere. Abandoning the sightseeing car, we walk for fifteen minutes to reach the waterfront boardwalk. Quickly occupy a good spot, shivering, we quietly wait for sunrise.
Juyan Lake is the terminal lake of the Heihe River, the second largest inland river in China. It originates deep in the Qilian Mountains and flows into two Gobi depressions northwest of the Badain Jaran Desert, forming East and West Juyan Lakes. It is also a peculiar wandering lake, its position shifting east and west, the lake area sometimes large, sometimes small. Historically, Juyan Lake was a paradise for nomadic people with abundant water and grass and livestock everywhere. Since drying up in 1961, it became one of the sources of sandstorms. There was a saying: 'When wind rises in Ejin, sand falls in Beijing.' The small Juyan Lake connects to Zhongnanhai. The ecological crisis in Ejin attracted high attention from the state. In 2002, the Heihe River achieved inter-provincial water diversion for the first time, and Juyan Lake regained life. Now the water area is maintained at around 40 square kilometers, becoming an immortal life legend on the Gobi. If not seen with your own eyes, it's hard to believe that in the endless desert, on the vast Gobi, there is such a thriving oasis: blue waves ripple in the vast desert, birds fly in the sky, fish swim in the water. This is a world of reeds, a paradise for black-headed gulls.
The sky becomes brighter. With a shout from the crowd, the sun reveals a hint of golden light, soon showing its charming figure. The originally red, orange, and purple sky is instantly dyed golden by the sun's rays. The deep blue lake surface becomes shimmering. The sun drags a long tail on the lake. The reeds by the lake look especially charming in the sunrise light. A gentle breeze passes, making the view even more beautiful. Large flocks of black-headed gulls soar over the lake, their silhouettes adding infinite charm to the picture.
After the sun rises, they become more active. From the dense reeds come their crisp calls. They are like spirits of the sky, some soaring and circling over the lake, some chasing and playing in the water, whispering, some gently patting the water surface waiting for fish to appear, some interacting with people, chasing the food in tourists' hands...
If Route 66 in the US is a pilgrimage for brave self-drivers, then China's G7 Jingxin Expressway is enough to make the world tremble. G7 is the longest expressway crossing deserts in the world, absolutely more stunning. Along the way, you can see not only the desolate deserts and Gobi of the Northwest but also a 500-kilometer uninhabited area. It is truly a great project. Of course, we only drove a section. It is recommended to ensure sufficient fuel, fill up at every gas station you see. Fortunately, the rest stops along the way are fairly well-equipped.
From Ejin Banner to Alxa Left Banner, a full 600 kilometers, from morning until sunset. After entering Alxa Left Banner, there are many Ant Forest planting areas on both sides of the national highway. Saxaul trees are growing strong. Saxaul, resistant to cold and wind, is the most suitable shrub for desert areas. When they grow together, they cover the ground and prevent sand from blowing. It is said that Ant Forest has different forest areas and has planted 1 million saxaul trees so far. With such data and today's firsthand sight, I estimate that my enthusiasm for planting trees in Ant Forest will increase day by day (image borrowed from the internet).
October 18
After a long journey, we rest overnight in Alxa Left Banner without staying long. We start crossing the Helan Mountains towards Yinchuan. Without going to the city, we first arrive at the Xixia Imperial Tombs, which look like 'big dirt mounds from afar, close up a pile of dirt'. Although the entire scenic area only has mound-style tombs, the mysterious Xixia dynasty still arouses my infinite interest.
Xixia Imperial Tombs (ticket 95 yuan/person) are located at the eastern foot of the Helan Mountains. They are the royal mausoleums of the Xixia dynasty. The grass plain covering 53 square kilometers is flat and open, higher in the west and lower in the east, overlooking the entire Yinchuan plain. It contains nine imperial mausoleums and 253 accompanying tombs, with grand scale, orderly layout, and solemnity. The scale is comparable to the Ming Tombs. It is one of the largest and most complete existing imperial mausoleum sites in China, hailed as a 'mysterious miracle' and 'Eastern Pyramid'. The Xixia dynasty was a local ethnic regime established by the Tangut people centered on Ningxia, ruling the western part of China. Founded by Li Yuanhao, it lasted for 12 emperors in just 190 years before being destroyed by the Mongols.
The movie shown at the Xixia Museum is not worth watching compared to Mogao, but the museum itself is more worth spending time to understand, especially the Xixia script, which has become a 'heavenly script'. Xixia culture is a unique flower in the garden of Chinese national culture, and Xixia script is the brightest pearl in this flower. To enhance ethnic awareness, Li Yuanhao ordered his minister Yeli Renrong to imitate Chinese characters and create and promote the use of Xixia script. It took three years to complete, with over 5,000 characters. The characters are square, with complicated strokes, structured like Chinese characters but with their own characteristics. Although the Tangut people no longer exist, the Xixia script they created has been passed down through inscribed artifacts. Although no one can read Xixia script today, this ancient script, embodying the wisdom of the Tangut people, has become an important tool for interpreting Xixia history. Let's guess the meaning of the Xixia characters on the Tangut male and female dolls. Male: courage; Female: beauty.
Leaving the museum, we take a sightseeing car to the core Mausoleum No. 3. Along the way, the surroundings are open, endless. Everywhere are broken walls, yellow walls and earth tiles. Mound-like tombs are scattered around. The former glory of the Xixia dynasty can only be found from these broken and decayed historical traces. Mausoleum No. 3 is the largest tomb in the entire Xixia Imperial Tombs, also the largest in area and the best preserved. Archaeological experts identify it as the 'Tailing' of the founding emperor Li Yuanhao. The imperial tomb faces south, combining Han culture, Buddhist culture, and Tangut culture. It consists of about 20 various buildings forming a vertical rectangular independent building complex. Rammed earth accounts for about 65%, with external wooden structures and brick and tile architectural components, eaves with tiles, roof ridges decorated with various glazed and gray pottery ornaments. Today, only the rammed earth of the tomb platform stands tall, broken bricks and tiles can be picked up, the rammed earth walls are intermittently connected, and the cemetery layout is clearly identifiable.
Tracing back to the ancient Xixia dynasty, a dynasty that once dominated part of China, a mysteriously disappeared dynasty, leaving only the difficult Xixia script and the yellow earth pyramids standing silently under the Helan Mountains in wind and rain. The desolate ancient tombs, after thousands of years of vicissitudes, have lost their former glory, but their poignant silhouettes still quietly tell future generations the rise and fall of a dynasty.
