Northwest China Travel I: From Summer to Autumn, Let Me Tell You About the Beautiful Encounters!
Meeting the Northwest again, still beautiful.
What kind of impulse~
made me think of going to the Northwest for the fourth time?
Perhaps in everyone’s heart, there is a place called nostalgia, for a place or a person, always unforgettable.
About the Northwest, I have an indescribable feeling for it, perhaps its ruggedness and depth, or its warmth and tenderness. I have been to many places and seen many landscapes, but the Northwest always seems to have a mysterious power that attracts me.
With its countless charms, the Northwest always makes me willingly spend more time to see it. No matter how many times, I feel that its appeal never fades.
This is my fourth trip to the Northwest, though not the beginning, nor the end. I traveled once in August and once in October 2020. In August, I took the regular Qinghai-Gansu loop, and in October, the Qinghai-Gansu loop plus the Ejina Banner Poplar Forest. So this Northwest travelogue will combine both trips!
From Qinghai to Gansu, and then to Alxa League, the sea of flowers, grasslands, snow-capped mountains, lakes, deserts, Gobi, yardang landforms, Danxia colorful hills, herds of cattle and sheep, and many other natural landscapes along the way will deeply make you fall in love with this vast and magical land of the Northwest.
Regarding some moments captured during these two Northwest trips, about the memories we made along the way, from surprises to heartfelt emotions, let me slowly tell you. I hope you like it, and I hope you also like the colorful Northwest.
The Northwest refers to parts of Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, Qinghai, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia. The commonly traveled Qinghai-Gansu loop is a circular route through Qinghai and Gansu provinces without retracing steps, with itineraries ranging from 6 to 8 days. Xining is generally the starting and ending point. Starting from Xining, passing through Qinghai Lake, then Dachaidan, the edge of Qaidam Basin, entering Dunhuang, traveling along the Hexi Corridor to Zhangye, and back to Xining, it forms a complete loop without backtracking. It covers the essence of both Qinghai and Gansu, combining natural scenery with the historical culture of the Silk Road, and is one of the most popular routes in the Northwest.
Let me organize the itineraries of the two trips for your reference~
August Qinghai-Gansu Route:
D1 Xining – Qinghai Lake – Chaka (stay in Chaka)
D2 Chaka – Chaka Salt Lake – Cross Dachaidan Basin – Emerald Lake – Dachaidan (stay in Dachaidan)
D3 Dachaidan – Dongtai Jiner Lake – Water Yardang – Dachaidan (stay in Dachaidan)
D4 Dachaidan – Yardang Devil City (passed by, didn’t enter) – Yangguan Pass – Oil Town – Dunhuang (stay in Dunhuang)
D5 Dunhuang – Mogao Caves – Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring – Shazhou Night Market (stay in Dunhuang)
D6 Ejina Banner – Zhangye Colorful Danxia – Zhangye (stay in Zhangye)
D7 Zhangye – Qilian Zhuor Mountain (stay in Qilian County)
D8 Qilian – Qilian Grassland – Xining (end of trip)
————————————————————————
October Qinghai-Gansu Route + Ejina Banner (reverse route)
D1 Xining – Qilian Grassland – Zhangye Colorful Danxia (stay in Zhangye)
D2 Zhangye – Jiuquan Jinta Poplar Forest (stay in Jinta)
D3 Jinta – Heicheng Ruoshui Poplar Forest – Ejina Banner (stay in Ejina Banner)
D4 Juyanhai Sunrise – Ejina Banner Poplar Forest – Return to Jinta (stay in Jinta)
D5 Jinta – Guazhou (Earth Child + Boundless) – Dunhuang (stay in Dunhuang)
D6 Dunhuang Mogao Caves – Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring – Shazhou Night Market (stay in Dunhuang)
D7 Dunhuang – Yangguan – Dachaidan Emerald Lake (stay in Dachaidan)
D8 Dachaidan – Dongtai Jiner Lake – Return to Dachaidan (stay in Dachaidan)
D9 Dachaidan – Chaka Salt Lake (stay in Chaka Town)
D10 Chaka – Qinghai Lake – Xining (end of trip)
I didn’t enter the Mogao Caves or Shazhou Night Market during these two trips, so I won’t share them in this travelogue.
The above itineraries are just for reference. Adjustments may be made based on weather, road conditions, etc. The goal is to travel safely and happily.
Most travelers to the Northwest choose self-driving or charter/ride-sharing. Here I share the pros and cons of each travel mode for you to weigh and choose the best option.
Self-driving is relatively the most flexible, allowing you to stop anytime. You can also enjoy the fun of driving. However, unfamiliarity with road conditions poses safety risks, long drives can be tiring, and visiting attractions can be strenuous. It’s advisable to plan thoroughly before the trip.
If traveling alone, you can choose ride-sharing. A car of 4-6 people with a professional driver-guide shares the cost, offers freedom, and allows you to meet new friends. However, personality differences may lead to conflicts, so be mentally prepared.
Family trips or groups of friends can charter a car and customize the itinerary for more enjoyment. Chartering for a few people is not a big issue with cost sharing, but for one or two people, the cost is relatively higher (of course, okay if budget allows).
Personally, I prefer ride-sharing since I often travel alone. Even as a travel blogger, I sometimes feel lazy about planning. With ride-sharing, a professional driver handles the itinerary and accommodation, so I don’t need to worry.
Each ride-sharing trip lets me meet friends from different places, many of whom become close friends. That’s the happiest thing for me.
For these two trips, I again chose ride-sharing and our reliable driver Mr. Ma. The journey was worry-free and fun!
Spring/Summer: Spring/summer clothes, light jacket, base layer, hat, socks. Comfortable shoes are key, plus sandals (also for the desert).
Autumn/Winter: Mainly autumn/winter clothes, down jacket/fleece, etc. For women, bring brightly colored clothes like red, blue, or white – they look great in photos.
[Daily Items]
Skincare: Regardless of season, UV rays in the Northwest are strong. Bring sunglasses and sun protection gear, including sun-protective clothing, high-SPF sunscreen, lip balm, body lotion. The weather is dry, so bring moisturizing masks, hand cream, etc. (Don’t forget makeup items for women.)
Toiletries: Toothpaste, toothbrush, makeup remover, facial cleanser, towel, shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, tissues, etc.
Thermos: You’ll spend a lot of time on the road. Carry one and drink plenty of water.
ID card (mandatory)
Student card or other ID (discounts at some ticket gates)
Cash (some backup cash; mobile payment works most places, but keep some just in case)
Common medicines: ibuprofen, cold medicine, stomach medicine, motion sickness medicine, band-aids, etc., in case of emergency.
[Photography Gear]
Camera: Sony a6400 mirrorless with kit lens 16-50 plus telephoto 55-210. Mirrorless is lightweight and easy to carry. Telephoto is useful for portraits, animals, distant views.
Drone: DJI Mavic Air 2. Highly recommended for this route – many spots look stunning from above, like Emerald Lake, Water Yardang, Poplar Forest.
Also: chargers, power bank, spare camera batteries.
In the Northwest, food is mainly noodles, beef, and lamb. Hotpot, big plate chicken, hand-grabbed lamb, roasted lamb chops, lamb skewers are all recommended. Lamb has no gamey taste and is delicious. Xining’s yogurt is also tasty – sour and smooth.
In Zhangye, try the local specialty: beef small rice. It’s not rice but small noodle pieces cut like rice grains, cooked with seasonings and a few slices of beef – delicious. I eat it every time.
The vast Northwest offers various local snacks that generally suit our tastes. But since travel times can be long and restaurants may not be available, bring some snacks in the car.
Every place I’ve visited holds beautiful memories!
Qinghai Lake, blue like the season changes.
The endless sky mirror of Chaka Salt Lake.
Emerald Lake in Dachaidan with countless shades of green.
Dongtai Jiner Lake, known as the 'Maldives of Qinghai'.
The desolate yet mysterious Aksai Oil Town.
The rugged yet gentle Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Spring.
The layered autumn beauty of Heicheng Ruoshui Poplar Forest.
Witnessing the bloom and fall of Ejina Banner’s poplar forest.
The colorful world of Zhangye Danxia.
Zhuor Mountain, known as the 'Little Switzerland of the East'.
Qinghai Lake – that touch of Qinghai blue.
The first time I went to Qinghai Lake was out of longing. I felt I had to visit a place I yearned for. After that, each return was because the itinerary included it, but with different companions at different times, the mood and scenery were always different. Even seeing it again and again, I still love it.
Qinghai Lake is China’s largest inland lake and largest saltwater lake. In Tibetan, it means 'blue sea.' The lake is vast and deep blue, like an ocean. Located on a plateau, it shows different beauty throughout the year, and its water temperature changes with the seasons.
In July-August, the average temperature around the lake is only about 15°C, very comfortable. It’s also the most beautiful time, with endless flower fields beside the lake, colorful, dotted with countless cattle and sheep – like a magnificent alpine meadow painting.
When I saw Qinghai Lake in late August, it was still a blue sky meeting the water. A cool breeze swept across the lake and brushed my face. Standing by this vast, clear blue, and calm lake, my restless heart calmed down.
In late October, Qinghai Lake had entered winter, but the rapeseed flowers were still in bloom by the lakeside, though I didn’t know how long they would last in the cold.
At that time, the lake had few visitors and was tranquil. Walking through the flower fields to the shore, the lake under the blue sky appeared even clearer and deeper, and that moment, I was moved by that Qinghai blue.
Standing by the deep blue lake, watching the breeze create ripples like fish scales, watching the waves lap against the shore and recede, watching cute seagulls soar and play on the water – all this added vitality to Qinghai Lake.
On the road around Qinghai Lake, the most common sights were yaks lazily swishing their tails, sheep leisurely grazing, and herdsmen with happy smiles – truly healing scenes. No matter how many times I see them, I am still moved by every frame of scenery, still full of curiosity and love.
[Tips]
1) Qinghai Lake is open all day. If entering from Erlangjian Scenic Area, tickets are required, varying by low/high season.
2) As usual, we avoided tourist crowds and didn’t enter Erlangjian. Instead, we found a quiet, beautiful lakeside spot nearby – all part of Qinghai Lake. Just have fun.
3) Taking photos with yaks by the lake requires payment. Clarify before shooting.
Chaka Salt Lake – the sky mirror in my eyes.
Before visiting Chaka Salt Lake, I heard many say 'It’s not worth it – crowded and you may not see the sky mirror.' But after visiting several times, I want to say: trust the scenery you see with your own eyes. Whether good or bad, it’s your own experience.
In this world, don’t just listen to rumors – experience it!
Chaka Salt Lake is one of the 'Four Great Scenic Spots of Qinghai,' known as the 'Sky Mirror of China' and listed by National Geographic Traveler as one of '55 places to visit in a lifetime.' Located in Chaka Town, Wulan County, Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai, it is one of the four major salt lakes in the Qaidam Basin, a place many yearn for.
The experience at Chaka depends heavily on weather. On a sunny, windless day, you can see the reflection of distant snow-capped mountains on the lake surface. The endless sky meets the vast salt lake at the horizon, making you feel as if you’re in a giant mirror world – the most beautiful sky mirror you’ll ever see.
You can walk into the salt lake from the entrance or take a sightseeing train. If you’ve seen 'Spirited Away' and want to experience a train gliding over water, the Chaka Salt Lake train is a must. Colorful trains running across the salt lake feel like a journey into a fairy tale – romantic and pleasant.
To get photos without crowds, simply walk deeper into the lake. Walking barefoot on the salt is also fun.
Standing in the lake, the sparkling salt creates an endless white world. The air smells of salt. It feels pure, like a paradise, beautiful and unreal.
In late October, Chaka Salt Lake is quieter and lower-key. Although temperature is low, the water is shallower, making it easier to form a huge mirror.
In Chaka, the sky feels low, and big clouds seem within reach. For a moment, I couldn’t tell where the sky ended and the lake began, or which was the reflection.
An endless water surface with a long track leading to another fairy tale… Scenes I thought only existed in fairy tales came true at Chaka Salt Lake.
At dusk, Chaka Salt Lake reaches its peak brilliance. Under the sunset glow, the salt lake’s endless charms are painted between heaven and earth. I fell in love with its twilight glow.
Watching the sun disappear below the horizon, the salt lake and distant rolling hills formed a peaceful picture.
[Tips]
1) Check the weather before going to Chaka. Sunny and windless will give you the sky mirror. Cloudy days may disappoint.
2) Ticket: 60 CNY. Small train one-way: 50 CNY/person. You can walk or take the train.
3) Walking barefoot on the salt lake bed can be prickly. Wear shoe covers (available for purchase or bring your own). Remove them for photos.
4) Sun protection is crucial; UV is intense.
5) The best shooting spots are deep in the lake. Walk past the crowds to the center for crowd-free photos.
6) Outfit: Red is the most photogenic, but many wear it. White, blue, yellow, and other bright colors also produce great photos. Choose according to the scene and style you want.
Emerald Lake – God’s overturned palette.
Who accidentally shattered precious gems and scattered them across this land?
When you see Emerald Lake, you’ll be amazed by the various greens.
I recently watched the movie 'A Little Red Flower' – it’s truly touching! I immediately recognized the divine lake where Wei Yihang went – it’s the Emerald Lake we visited.
No matter how difficult life gets, there is always a pure place that heals and gives strength. So if you have the chance, go out and see – you’ll find the world beautiful.
Dachaidan Emerald Lake is located about 10 km northwest of Dachaidan Town, at the edge of the Qaidam Basin in northwestern Qinghai. It was originally a mining area for the Dachaidan Chemical Plant salt lake mining team. After years of extraction, minerals like potassium, magnesium, lithium, and halides combined, and under sunlight, the salt bed shows alternating colors of light green, emerald, or deep blue. The salt ponds vary in size, shape, and depth, like pieces of translucent jade – hence the name Emerald Lake.
The lake’s color changes with the weather. I’ve seen it sunny, overcast, and snowy, but the most stunning is in sunlight. Each lakelet is like a mirror scattered everywhere, reflecting blue sky and white clouds. Colors like yellow-green, emerald, lake blue unfold before your eyes, with the snow-capped peaks of the Qaidam Mountains in the distance – dreamlike and surreal. Only by being there can you feel the awe.
This is how we saw Emerald Lake in August – overcast and windy. The colors were not as stunning, but since we were there, I felt I had to take some photos, or it would feel like I hadn’t been. So I took these not-so-amazing but still liked pictures.
Emerald Lake has no crowds. Walk a bit deeper, find any lakelet, stand casually, and you can take the photos you want – all very artistic.
[Tips]
1) Currently free, but the scenic area is under development. It may charge in the future.
2) No public transport to Emerald Lake. Drive or charter a car. The road has a bumpy gravel section – drive carefully.
3) There are many lakelets. Don’t crowd with others; find your own angle.
4) Bring a drone. Aerial views show various colors and are more spectacular.
5) Salt water is highly corrosive, and the salt ground is rough. Avoid bare feet. Some salt edges near water are soft – watch your step and stay safe.
6) The area is undeveloped with no trash bins. Don’t litter; take your trash away.
7) Outfit: Bright clothes and dresses – red, yellow are photogenic. White and blue match the scene. (I wore a green dress in August; October was too cold for thin dresses.)
Dongtai Jiner Lake – A touch of blue in the Gobi.
In the past year 2020, I believe everyone was bombarded with posts about the 'Maldives of Qinghai' – the hugely popular Dongtai Jiner Lake.
This lake became famous due to its high-concentration salt crystals forming a 'white beach,' and the water containing various elements that create shades of blue – hence the nickname. I think many, like me, were drawn by a single photo.
Dongtai Jiner Lake is near National Highway 315, within Golmud City, Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai. It is another beautiful sight on the Gobi of the Qaidam Basin. There is no hustle and bustle; it feels low-key and serene. Because of high copper content, the lake water shows different colors: mint green, Tiffany blue… dreamy. Seeing this beautiful lake in the barren Gobi is rare.
The first time I went to Dongtai Jiner Lake, it was also overcast and windy. The scenery differed from expectations, and I didn’t see the Tiffany blue I hoped for – a slight disappointment. But many scenic spots in the Northwest depend on weather. Be mentally prepared that you may not get good photos or the scene may differ greatly from expectations. Don’t let that affect your mood.
Though I didn’t see Tiffany blue, I did see a refreshing mint green on the Gobi – that soft mint green cured my momentary disappointment.
Compared to August, October had significantly fewer people, but the water was noticeably less. Also, October was really cold – look at my thick clothes. At that moment, I was so cold I didn’t even want to take photos.
Despite the cold, I saw the blue I had hoped for. The endless lake under the blue sky looked like a quiet picture. Gradient, deep blue water, white salt beach… If you see such a scene, you’d be captivated.
Standing before the clear deep blue lake, the quiet water seemed to silence everything. Time felt still, work stress forgotten, and I felt the peace of returning to nature.
[Tips]
1) Located in western Qinghai. Navigate to 'Dongtai Jiner Lake.'
2) Drive or charter. There is a parking lot with a fee.
3) The lake is large. Most tourists stay near the entrance. Walk deeper to avoid crowds. A drone is recommended for better aerial shots.
Water Yardang – A unique natural landscape.
Yardang landforms are common in Qinghai, but water yardang is unique.
Water Yardang, also called Wusute Yardang Geological Park, is a wonder formed over millions of years. Here you can see half desert, half oasis. It is said that originally there was no water. Years ago, a mountain flood diverted the Nengleng River from the Kunlun Mountains, flooding the area and creating the water yardang.
Water Yardang is close to Dongtai Jiner Lake and can be visited together. The weather that day was bad – overcast, extremely windy, and cold. I left quickly, feeling I missed many highlights. Without a drone, I didn’t get stunning photos. I’ll visit again if possible.
Yardang is a typical wind-eroded landform. In Uyghur, 'yardang' means 'a hill with steep sides.' Due to wind erosion, the lower parts are often more eroded, forming concave shapes. If the upper rock is loose, it may collapse under gravity, creating steep walls – the yardang landform.
The entire water yardang looks like an alien planet, with various sand dune shapes scattered in the lake – very spectacular. From the ground, it may not seem grand, but from a high peak, where the sky meets the water, and you see yardangs of all sizes, you feel small and nature’s wonder.
Now the Water Yardang scenic area offers RV accommodation for visitors who want to see stars. Book in advance during peak season. For better value, return to Dachaidan Town, about 3 hours away.
The scenic area is quite large. I didn’t explore it well this time, so I have little to share. I’ll make up for the regret next time.
Yangguan Pass – An ancient city buried by drifting sand.
The mention of Yangguan probably sounds familiar.
'Drink one more cup of wine, my friend, west of Yangguan, there will be no old friend.' Wang Wei’s timeless poem immediately brings Yangguan to mind. If you love history, you must visit it when in Dunhuang. Walking inside feels like traveling back a thousand years.
Yangguan Pass, 70 km southwest of Dunhuang, got its name because it lies south of Yumen Pass. As a gateway to the Western Regions and a key pass on the southern Silk Road, it was a strategically important military site.
In the past, as a frontier pass, Yangguan saw merchants, soldiers, and many travelers. It is not just a place name but holds much history. Due to its age, few structures remain, with the best-preserved being the beacon tower on the mound north of Antique Beach. Beside the beacon are a stele corridor and a pavilion. South of the pavilion is a stone tablet inscribed 'Yangguan Ancient Site.' On Antique Beach, there is a patch of green forest; beyond that, only yellow sand and red earth.
Some props are scattered in the vast desert. The desert wind howls around, evoking the past. Many farewells and stories unfolded here.
Today, Yangguan is no longer the desolate place of Wang Wei’s poem. It has become a famous Silk Road pass in Dunhuang and a cultural heritage site.
'Wherever there is farmland, grapes are grown.' Now, the area around Yangguan is a lush green place with grapevines. During harvest season, the ancient Yangguan road is laden with fresh, tempting grapes. If you come at this time, you can also experience picking grapes yourself.
[Tips]
1) Yangguan is located west of Nanhu Township, Dunhuang, Jiuquan City, Gansu.
2) Ticket: 60 CNY/person (includes electric cart). Free guided tours are available.
3) Inside the scenic area, there are two museums displaying local artifacts such as weapons.
4) Sun protection is essential, especially at the ruins area with almost no shade.
Oil Town – Desolate and mysterious.
What secret lies behind the oil town that disappeared overnight?
I’ve been here many times, yet found nothing.
About two hours’ drive from Dunhuang, there is an abandoned city that once thrived, then declined, and finally became a ghost town – the Aksai Oil Town.
Many legends surround it: some say a mysterious event caused its overnight disappearance; others say overexploitation of resources led to the town’s relocation. These stories add an air of mystery, but this mystique gives the oil town a unique charm.
Once forgotten, the oil town became a must-visit on the Northwest loop after the movie 'The Ghouls.' If you like retro styles, this is a great spot.
Walking along the streets, a sense of desolation prevails. Scenes from the movie come to mind. Ruins of kindergartens, schools, clubs, factories, and government buildings hint at past prosperity. The decayed structures and wind-blown dust evoke mysterious events.
This abandoned oil town, though scarred, has peeling walls, broken factory buildings, and rusty stations – all excellent photography subjects. Pair with sporty, outdoor adventure, or punk styles to match the scene and get cool photos.
[Tips]
1) Oil Town is at the intersection of National Highway 215 and County Road 281 in Aksai Autonomous County, Jiuquan City, Gansu.
2) Ticket: 30 CNY/person. Electric cart: 10 CNY/person (about 1 km from ticket booth to the town; you can walk).
3) Photo spots: jeeps at the entrance, bus stop on the road, road signs, beast on the roof, kindergarten, large ruins – many scenes for great photos.
Dunhuang Mingsha Mountain – Rugged yet gentle.
'You are the wind, I am the sand, intertwined forever wandering…'
Every time at Mingsha Mountain, this familiar song comes to mind.
Compared to crowded spots, I prefer walking freely in the desert. Looking at the endless dunes, I truly feel the desolation, vastness, and boundlessness of 'the solitary smoke straight in the great desert, the setting sun round over the long river.'
Mingsha Mountain is located at the north foot of the mountain, 5 km south of Dunhuang. It is a national key scenic spot. The entire mountain is formed by fine sand particles in five colors: red, yellow, green, black, and white. When strong winds blow, the mountain makes loud sounds; in gentle breezes, it sounds like string music – hence the name 'Singing Sand Mountain.' If you slide down, the sand underfoot also makes sound. Footprints disappear the next day – that’s the magic of Mingsha.
Crescent Spring is surrounded by Mingsha Mountain, shaped like a crescent moon. Mingsha and Crescent Spring are like twin sisters in the desert, inseparable. Crescent Spring is one of the 'Eight Scenic Spots of Dunhuang' and known as the 'Best Spring in the Desert.' So when you visit Mingsha, you must see Crescent Spring.
To see the full view of Crescent Spring, climb to the top. Don’t think it’s easy – you’ll be out of breath quickly. But the scenic area has built a wooden staircase to make climbing easier.
Standing on the sand top overlooking Crescent Spring, the clear spring is like a young girl gently nestled in the embrace of Mingsha. As the sun sets, Crescent Spring’s lights slowly come on, making the curved moon even more dazzling against the sunset and lights.
Sitting quietly on the soft sand, watching distant lights flicker one by one, the golden warm lights twinkled every moment. I love brilliant places. Sometimes I think it’s amazing how a place, a city’s lights, can make a fleeting memory so vivid among trivial recollections.
At Mingsha Mountain, don’t miss the reed marsh by Crescent Spring. With blue sky and yellow sand as background, every casual shot is lovely. Breeze blows, reeds dance gracefully, especially beautiful in the sunset.
In previous visits, I wore red outfits for the desert, thinking red looks good. But this time I wore a black irregular dress with Martin boots, and it turned out to be a style I love. Black matches the sand color, and random shots look great.
[Tips]
1) Ticket: 110 CNY/person. Camel ride: 100 CNY/person. Sightseeing car: 10 CNY/person. (Other activities like desert motorcycles, paragliding – we didn’t try.)
2) After entry, go straight right for camel rides. If not, walk about 10 minutes to the foot of Mingsha (or take a sightseeing car). Climb up the path to the top – best spot for full view of Crescent Spring and sunrise/sunset.
3) For beautiful photos, avoid crowds. Go to the deserted side of the mountain. With good light, any shot against the desert backdrop looks great.
4) Besides enjoying the rugged and tender desert, camping in the desert is also a good experience. The Crescent Spring scenic area is in front mountain; camping is in the back mountain with campsites (food, accommodation, fun). But campsites are closed in winter – unavailable during our October trip.
Earth Child – Artwork on the Gobi.
When it comes to Guazhou County in Jiuquan, I guess many think of the sweet melons. Every time we pass by from Dunhuang, we eat melons. But this time, I’m sharing two sculptures on the Gobi – Earth Child and Boundless.
In the desolate desert, a statue lies quietly in the embrace of Mother Earth, like a sleeping child – that’s the 'Earth Child,' designed by Professor Dong Shubing, head of the Sculpture Department of Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts.
'Earth Child' is a crawling baby sculpture, chubby, round-faced, cute yet stunning, with a visual impact. Seeing photos online, I felt a lone child lying in the vast Gobi seemed lonely. But seeing it in person, the baby’s expression revealed harmony, as if truly a child of the earth. At that moment, even the Gobi became gentle.
Nearby is another structure, 'Boundless,' also by Professor Dong. Inspired by the Tang Dynasty 'Transformation Paintings' in Mogao and Yulin Caves, it recreates the pavilions from the murals using modern construction techniques. Made of pure white steel tubes with a simple framework, from afar it looks like a white hollow building in the Gobi, dreamy and illusory – like a mirage.
Under the blue sky, the white Boundless stands out against the quiet Gobi, contrasting sharply with the desert colors. Due to light and wind, the sculpture’s appearance changes every moment, beautifully unreal.
These two sculptures on the vast Gobi add vitality to the desolate desert. I feel lucky to have seen them and glad that modern art is thriving on the Gobi. If you have a chance, come see these artworks on the desert.
[Tips]
1) Located in Guazhou County, Jiuquan City, Gansu (navigate to 'Earth Child').
2) Aerial view is more spectacular, but wind is strong – be careful when flying a drone. We didn’t fly due to strong wind.
3) Free entry, located by the road with parking. Self-driving is convenient.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia – A world of vivid colors.
Who overturned the palette, making every hill a painting?
On the vast Northwest landscape, there are many dazzling sights, and Zhangye Colorful Danxia is one. Here, God lavishly splashed the most vivid colors onto the undulating mountains, creating the colorful world we see.
Colorful Danxia is located in Linze County, Zhangye City. It is one of the 'World’s Top 10 Geographic Wonders.' With its interlocking layers, colorful tones, and brilliant beauty, it forms a colorful fairy tale world. Its charm attracts countless visitors.
I’ve seen Colorful Danxia many times, each time feeling awe. Here I realized that red can have so many shades and variations. The entire land seems dyed, full of color.
From the viewing platforms, oil paintings unfold. The beauty lies in its colors: under sunlight, red, yellow, orange, green, white, and other bright colors are clearly layered. Some mountains are red and yellow; others yellow and white. The rolling colorful hills stretch for hundreds of miles like gorgeous silk ribbons draped over the ground, so harmonious and natural.
I’ve seen Colorful Danxia in different seasons. The late autumn version touched me more – with few crowds, quieter and more reserved.
When we visited in late October, there was no snow, but a layer of white covered the Danxia – a dreamy, mysterious color. At that moment, Colorful Danxia looked like a watercolor painting, refreshing and bright.
The most charming time is dusk. The setting sun’s rays hit the texture of the Danxia, changing every second. Bathed in the twilight, the endless hills appear both desolate and magnificent, with a warm, lingering feeling. I think God favored this land, deliberately overturning the palette to create such stunning Danxia.
Colorful Danxia is ever-changing. Everyone sees a unique version. When you encounter it, you’ll have your own distinctive impression. Immersed in it, you can fully feel the peace this land brings, and the ruggedness and tenderness of the Northwest.
[Tips]
1) Regular ticket: 75 CNY (ticket + sightseeing car). ID required for purchase; swipe ID to enter.
2) Route: The scenic area has north, west, and east entrances. We entered from the north gate. Route: North Gate – Colorful Immortal Platform – Colorful Cloud Sea Platform – Colorful Splendor Platform – Colorful Rainbow Platform – North Gate. You don’t need to memorize; each stop has sightseeing cars.
3) You can watch sunrise when the gate opens, and sunset at dusk. The light at dusk is softest. Plan according to your schedule.
Zhuor Mountain – The 'Little Switzerland of the East'.
I’d heard that on National Highway 227, there is a place comparable to Swiss pastoral scenery – Zhuor Mountain.
Although I’ve traveled the Qinghai-Gansu route many times, I had never been to Zhuor Mountain. It wasn’t in our August itinerary, but we changed some plans on the road, so meeting Zhuor Mountain was a pleasant surprise.
Zhuor Mountain Scenic Area is located in Babao Town, Qilian County, Qinghai. It is a Danxia landform composed of red sandstone and conglomerate. From the top, the view is wide: opposite is Niuxin Mountain, on the left and right are Ladong Valley and Baiyangou Scenic Area, and behind are the rolling Qilian Mountains. Every step offers a new view, spectacular.
It is said that June and July are the most beautiful times, with large rapeseed fields in bloom. When we visited in late August, the rapeseed was gone, but we were still captivated. Strips of highland barley fields, rolling hills, dense forests, green grasslands, and holy snow-capped mountains – yellow, green, red, blue – the scene was like a fairyland. No wonder it’s called 'Little Switzerland of the East.'
In Zhuor Mountain, every step is scenery. The higher you go, the better the view. Follow the winding wooden boardwalk to the top beacon tower, where you can take in the beauty of all directions. From the top, the layered colors create a strong visual impact. Having seen Zhangye Danxia, this is different – more green embellishments, richer colors.
Looking down from the top, the villages scattered in the valleys seem like hidden paradises, unknown to the world, quiet. Each house holds its own little story – mysterious and dreamlike, against the backdrop of snow mountains and forests, as if in a fairy tale.
The Northwest landscape always gives us shocking beauty. Zhuor Mountain is a colorful pastoral painting on the vast land, refreshing the mind and satisfying all imaginations of beauty.
[Tips]
1) Ticket: 80 CNY/person (includes round-trip sightseeing car). There are two gates, A line and B line. Pay attention to which line you take on the way up, and take the same line back.
2) From the sightseeing car stop to the top, there is a boardwalk. It takes about 1 hour to climb. Every step offers beautiful scenery.
3) At the top beacon tower, you can overlook the surroundings. It’s spectacular – be sure to reach the top.
4) A boardwalk not far from the beacon tower (in front of the snow mountain) is a great photo spot. Snow mountains, forests, grasslands – everything you want is here.
Qilian Grassland – Fulfilling my longing for the prairie.
Qilian Grassland is a high-altitude grassland located in the Qilian Mountains at the border of Qinghai and Gansu. It is one of 'China’s Six Most Beautiful Grasslands.' Those traveling the Qinghai-Gansu loop pass through Qilian Grassland, where you can run, play, and enjoy nature.
Summer is the most beautiful season: blue sky, white clouds, snow-capped mountains, herds of cattle and sheep, and herders’ tents connected by the road – a wonderful picture. The endless scenery is intoxicating.
Under the Gangshika Snow Peak lies the endless Qilian Grassland. Herds of cattle and sheep graze leisurely, and colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind – a heart-stirring scene.
Driving on the Northwest roads, I’m often moved by beautiful scenery, changing weather, herds of animals, and unexpected surprises.
On the grassland, you may encounter cute little animals and many marmot holes. Marmots pop their heads out to check if anyone is passing, then hide or scurry away – extremely cute.
On the vast grassland, the sky feels low, and clouds seem within reach. Gazing at distant snow mountains, beyond which are rolling peaks, and before you are fresh greens and yellows, the air filled with the scent of grass. Looking at this natural beauty, travel fatigue vanishes instantly. At this moment, just enjoy nature’s gift.
I really love grasslands, so every time I pass Qilian Grassland, I stop to play. Along the way, you’ll find many grasslands protected by locals, but there are visitor service points where you can park and play for 10 CNY per person. There are also activities like horseback riding and archery for an extra fee.
Jinta Poplar Forest – An autumn fairy tale.
Autumn is a romantic and lovely season, with colorful hues giving it an enticing beauty. It is the most intoxicating season – so vivid, you never tire of looking.
When autumn arrives, from north to south, the land becomes God’s palette. Autumn is also a great traveling season – mild breeze, nice sunshine, fallen leaves, every inch of land radiating a gentle glow.
Where is autumn’s beauty most evident? Undoubtedly in the poplar forest. As soon as autumn comes, the leaves of the poplar trees turn yellow uniformly, like a golden ocean, shining brilliantly in the sunlight. At this time, the poplar forest resembles a fairy tale world.
But autumn for poplars is short. Precisely because it’s fleeting, countless people flock to see it. I am especially fond of the golden poplars, which is why I embarked on my second Northwest trip in October, coming all the way with friends for the poplars.
Our first stop for autumn poplar colors was Jinta Poplar Forest in Jiuquan. Unlike other poplar forests, Jinta’s was artificially planted to combat wind and sand, but its scale is no less impressive, with the same wonder and beauty. In golden autumn, the entire forest seems painted in oil-paint gold, and the lake makes it even softer.
We arrived in late October, the tail end of the poplar season, so many leaves had fallen. Since I had been here before, I led my friends straight to Jinbo Lake, where fortunately many poplars were still in full bloom.
Jinbo Lake is the highlight of Jinta Poplar Forest. Located north of the poplar forest square, the lake is crystal clear, surrounded by poplars. Golden reflections in the water give it its name. That day was overcast, so colors weren’t brilliant. But from a drone’s perspective, the poplar forest was still stunning. Clear lake water, golden poplars, layered colors stretching to the horizon – a natural oil painting, as if walking into a fairy tale.
Walking in the poplar forest, you feel a life force. No tree is as stunning as the poplar. Though artificially grown, lacking the grandeur of wild poplars, the reflection in Jinbo Lake adds a unique charm. Thick, weathered trunks set against golden leaves, the golden hues and lake water complement each other, creating a beautiful picture.
Strolling through Jinta Poplar Forest, everything is golden. A gust of wind sends leaves fluttering down, dancing in the air. Stepping on the fallen leaves, you hear a rustling sound, like a cheerful song playing the rhythm of seasonal change.
[Tips]
1) Jinta Poplar Forest is 8 km northwest of Jinta County, Jiuquan City, Gansu. It comprises five zones: Jinbo Lake Core Area, Sand Jujube Forest Sightseeing Area, Vast Red Willow Conservation Area, Desert Entertainment Experience Area, and Desert Reed Maze Area. We entered in the afternoon and mainly visited Jinbo Lake. If you want to explore other areas, allow more time.
2) Ticket: 65 CNY + 20 CNY for sightseeing car. Self-driving cars can enter for an extra 30 CNY per vehicle.
3) October in Jinta is already cold – keep warm.
Heicheng Ruoshui Poplar Forest – Give me one day, and I’ll give you three thousand years.
Heicheng Ruoshui Poplar Forest: our second stop for autumn poplars. After seeing the tail end of Jinta, and hearing that strong winds had blown off many leaves, I didn’t have high expectations. But when we arrived, the golden yellow was a delightful surprise!
Heicheng Ruoshui is located about 25 km southeast of Dalaihubu Town, Ejina Banner, Inner Mongolia. Ejina Banner belongs to Alxa League, Inner Mongolia, at the westernmost end of the autonomous region. It borders Alxa Right Banner to the east, Jiuquan City, Gansu to the southwest, and Mongolia to the north.
Ejina Banner is a multi-ethnic area with a long history and rich cultural heritage, abundant in tourism resources. Common must-visit spots are Heicheng Ruoshui Poplar Forest, Juyanhai, and Ejina Poplar Forest.
We came on October 24, perfectly avoiding the peak season. Apart from us, there were hardly any tourists. Our car could drive directly inside, stopping as we pleased – so enjoyable!
Heicheng Ruoshui scenic area is quite large, with sections for Ruoshui Poplar Forest, Heishui Ancient City, Strange Forest, and Heicheng Ruins. After buying tickets, the first stop was Ruoshui Poplar Forest; we didn’t go to Heicheng Ruins.
Ruoshui Poplar Forest lies on both sides of the upper reaches of the Ruoshui River, known as the 'most beautiful poplar forest.' Entering here feels like stepping into a golden ocean and an oil painting.
Walking among the poplars is like entering a fairy tale. The dense poplars are bizarre and varied: some stand straight like soldiers, some pose gracefully like dancers, some are as charming as young women, some dead ones bend like old folks. And thick poplars require several people to encircle – their diverse forms are amazing!
We were lucky to have clear weather at Heicheng Ruoshui. The poplars, set against blue sky and white clouds, created wonderful scenes. Reflections of poplars in the clear water of the Ruoshui River – how many people dream of such a painting?
From a drone’s perspective, the poplar forest is even more spectacular – endless golden splendor. The scattered golden trees stand proudly in the desert, shining brightly, complementing the blue sky, enlivening the entire desert. We felt immersed in a golden world, enjoying nature’s gift.
God gives the most beautiful scenery to autumn, and autumn gives the most beautiful color to the poplar. In the full bloom of autumn, the poplar releases its passion accumulated over a year – an unparalleled hue. Standing under the poplar trees, an autumn breeze rustles the leaves, making a pleasant sound. From time to time, golden leaves drift down gently, quiet and soft, as if telling fairy tales.
Compared to the poplars by the Ruoshui River, those in the nearby Phoenix Forest were less impressive – some leaves had fallen, some were still green. So we saw a different aspect of poplars.
Phoenix Forest is on the east bank of the Ruoshui River, a peculiar desert poplar landscape zone and the best spot to watch the setting sun over the long river. But we didn’t stay for sunset.
Strolling in the poplar forest, I felt their tenacious vitality. The barren desert did not suppress their growth; instead, it forged their resilience. In this desolate landscape, poplars and desert guard each other. Poplars use all their strength to display moving colors, though short-lived, they attract many.
Adjacent to the Ruoshui River stands Heishui Ancient City, rebuilt at a 1:1 scale based on Heicheng Ruins. This new ancient city is a comprehensive cultural hub integrating history, entertainment, leisure, desert sports, and dining.
Inside, there are streets, courier stations, schools, banks, grocery stores, horse markets, escort agencies, etc., presenting a millennium-old desert oasis. The city has complete facilities, allowing visitors to enjoy dining, entertainment, and experience authentic Western Region culture in one stop.
In late October, after the poplar peak season, the ancient city had very few tourists. Many shops were closed, only a couple open, making it seem rather quiet compared to usual bustle. But without crowds, strolling in the ancient city offered a different vacation mood – rare peace and comfort. If you dislike crowds, this time is ideal.
Climbing the city wall, the view is wide, encompassing the surroundings. You can see Heicheng surrounded by the Ruoshui River, poplars growing tenaciously on the riverbank, and the vast desert – all bearing witness to history.
Within the Heicheng scenic area, there is a large stretch of dead poplars – the legendary 'Strange Forest.' It was our last stop.
Stepping into the Strange Forest feels like entering a magical world. The dead poplars take various bizarre shapes, leaning, standing, lying, or reclining – desolate and tragic from afar.
Poplars are a unique species with strong vitality. This area was once a dense poplar forest, but changes in river channels severely damaged their habitat, leading to large-scale die-off. However, poplars have special decay-resistant properties, earning the name 'living fossil.' So dead trunks still stand upright on the Gobi desert, forming this tragic landscape.
'Live a thousand years without dying, stand a thousand years without falling, and lie a thousand years without decaying' – the Strange Forest perfectly embodies this. Dead poplars stand tenaciously in the Gobi, showing indomitable will. Harsh environment took their lives but not their spirit.
Walking deeper along the boardwalk, it was empty. Honestly, walking alone felt a bit scary. But the deeper I went, the stronger the awe. Some poplars were vibrant, sprouting new leaves; others were withered with cracked trunks, weathered. In the desolate silence, I felt life’s resilience.
Each tree in the Strange Forest has its own character. For environmental protection, most dead poplars are fenced off; visitors can only view from the boardwalk. However, there are many nice spots outside the fence for photos. This place is especially good for sunset and silhouette shots, so arrive before sunset if you want to capture them.
[Tips]
1) Ticket: 200 CNY/person – a combined ticket covering all spots and internal shuttle bus.
2) Typical route: Buy ticket – Ruoshui Poplar Forest – Heishui Ancient City – Strange Forest (we skipped Heicheng Ruins). Shuttle buses connect each spot. In late October, few visitors; our car could drive in, stopping anytime.
3) The scenic area is large. If you want to take good photos, allow plenty of time. Go in the afternoon and leave after sunset.
Juyanhai Sunrise – The coldest yet most beautiful sunrise I’ve ever seen.
I’ve watched sunrises in many places, but if asked which is most unforgettable, it’s undoubtedly Juyanhai – the coldest yet most beautiful sunrise.
Juyanhai is the terminal lake of the Heihe River, the second largest inland river in China. Originating deep in the Qilian Mountains, the Heihe flows through Qinghai, Gansu, and Inner Mongolia, finally converging into two depressions on the northwestern edge of the Badain Jaran Desert, forming east and west lakes – collectively Juyanhai.
Juyanhai is located in northern Ejina Banner, Alxa League, Inner Mongolia, narrow and curved like a crescent moon. With water from the Ejina River, the area is lush with grass, fish, and birds.
We drove about an hour from our hotel to Juyanhai. To catch the sunrise, we got up at around 5 a.m. It was really cold in late October – we wore almost all the warm clothes we brought. When we reached the gate, it was still pitch dark and empty; the ticket office turned on lights a while later.
After buying tickets and arriving at the gate, the staff said it was too cold, few tourists, and the scenic area would close in a few days. There were no shuttle buses, but we could drive our own car in. So we drove inside.
Juyanhai has three viewing platforms: Platform 1 offers a panorama, Platform 2 has reeds and water birds, and Platform 3 is the best spot for sunrise.
When we drove in, it was still dark. Following previous experience, we went to Platform 2. It was freezing outside – biting cold that seeped through down jackets, sweaters, and scarves, numbing hands and feet. I could barely hold my phone.
Even shivering, I kept my eyes on the horizon, watching a faint blush slowly appear. At this moment, Juyanhai was quiet – only the wind and seagull calls. Yet it was also touching, making us forget the cold as we stood by the lake, waiting for sunrise.
Waiting for sunrise was hard, but the scene was worth it: lake, reeds, wild geese, seagulls flying over the reeds, the lake shimmering with reflections of swaying reeds and the rosy sky – a moving picture.
Perhaps it was too cold – even the sun hid, refusing to show. By 7:20, the horizon was still only a blush. I was nearly numb and ready to give up and return to the car for warmth.
Just as we were about to leave, the sun appeared. In an instant, the entire lake changed color. Golden waves shimmered, shifting light and shadow created alternating hues – Juyanhai’s perfect highlight moment.
I was too cold to get out of the car for a photo. I snapped one quickly, and kept the rest in my eyes and memory.
Watching a sunrise at Juyanhai will stay with you forever – unforgettable biting cold, but even more unforgettable the stunning moments before and after dawn. Love at first sight, with endless beautiful memories.
[Tips]
1) Ticket: 75 CNY/person, including shuttle bus.
2) Mornings are extremely cold and windy at the lake. Keep warm.
3) At Juyanhai, you can watch sunrise, the lake, reeds, and water birds. After sunrise, continue exploring – photos of reeds are especially nice. We went directly to Ejina Poplar Forest after, so we didn’t linger.
Ejina Banner Poplar Forest – Witnessing its bloom and fall.
Our third stop for autumn poplars was the Ejina Banner Poplar Forest. But late October was the tail end; most poplars had already shed their leaves. Many said we had missed the best viewing period and didn’t need to go.
Most people have seen poplars at their peak, but few see them at the end. Everyone comes during the best season for the golden autumn beauty. If not at this time, I wouldn’t have seen the falling poplars.
From Jinta to Heicheng Ruoshui, I had already collected so much beauty from poplars – seen their bloom and fall. I have no regrets about the poplars.
Many say Ejina only has one trip per year. This place, beautiful for only 21 days each year, if you come too early, the poplars aren’t colorful; too late, frost knocks down the leaves. So to see the best autumn colors, come during the optimal viewing period.
Since we’ve already seen bloom, let’s also look at the fall.
To be honest, before entering, I didn’t expect the leaves to have fallen so quickly – at least Heicheng Ruoshui still had large golden areas. But inside, most poplars were just bare trunks. For a moment, I felt frustrated and wanted to turn back. But since we had bought tickets (240 CNY), I quickly adjusted my mood and continued deeper with my friends.
Poplars bloom only about 20 days a year. After the bustling season, the forest gradually returns to calm. The scenic area had few visitors. Wind, yellow sand, falling leaves – only the sturdy trunks remained, seemingly dead but standing firm, appearing even more weathered. At this moment, the poplar forest had a different kind of rugged beauty.
We took the shuttle from bridge 2 to bridge 8, covering the entire area. Under the azure sky, some poplars still clung to golden leaves, as if unwilling to fall, while the ground was covered with fallen leaves. New life and decay cycle endlessly – each withering is a reincarnation of new growth. Blooming poplars are beautiful, but falling poplars possess more vitality.
[Tips]
1) The scenic area has eight bridges, each with different scenery: Bridge 1 (main gate), Bridge 2 Reflection Forest, Bridge 3 Red Willow Sea, Bridge 4 Hero Forest, Bridge 5 Folk Custom Park, Bridge 6 (closed), Bridge 7 Dreamland Forest, Bridge 8 Sand Sea Forest.
2) The shuttle stops at bridges 2, 4, 7, 8. From bridges 4 and 8, you can return directly to Bridge 1. Walking is required from Bridge 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3.
3) Bridge 2 offers reflections of poplars; Bridge 4 is where Zhang Yimou’s film 'Hero' was shot – large, ancient poplars with diverse shapes; Bridge 7 has unique forms and is one of the earliest to turn yellow – spend more time here.
4) Poplar forest is highly seasonal. Optimal viewing period is October 1-15, when most leaves are yellow. If you want golden poplars, don’t miss this period. If you have flexible holidays, avoid the National Day rush.
5) Ticket: 240 CNY/person, including shuttle.
The Northwest – Until we meet again.
Some say you must visit the Northwest at least once in your lifetime, because a single grand loop is like multiple trips – spanning thousands of kilometers, covering flower seas, grasslands, deserts, Gobi, yardangs, snow mountains, lakes – everything you want to see.
The vast Northwest is both desolate and vibrant, lonely and lively. Those who haven’t been are drawn by a single photo; those who have been fall in love at first sight.
While organizing my Northwest photos, I realized I’ve unconsciously been there four times in the past two years. My folders are filled with countless photos; I can’t bear to delete any, because each one holds so many beautiful memories.
Returning to the same place feels like having conversations with different versions of myself. Every trip brings different gains. In these turbulent times, cherish every brave journey.
