Qinghai Grand Loop Travel Guide
Preface: I don't know when the phrase 'a trip that says go and just go' burst onto the scene; I don't know when everyone started dreaming of such a trip; I don't know when such a trip always stirs up excitement.
If you need a driver for chartered or shared rides, feel free to message me and I can recommend one.
The vacation was set a month in advance. There were several possible destinations, and after much deliberation, we initially planned on Southeast Asia. However, a companion couldn't confirm their vacation days before departure and didn't have a passport. To avoid delaying our trip, we switched last minute to Qinghai. In retrospect, we're really glad they didn't have a passport, or we would have missed this incredible experience. Great beauty Qinghai, here we come...
Once my companion's vacation was confirmed, we decided to depart on the 19th.
1. Booking Flights
Outbound: Shenzhen to Xining (with a 14-hour layover in Xi'an)
Return: Xining to Shenzhen (with a half-hour stopover in Zunyi)
PS: June, July, August, and September are peak tourist season in Qinghai, so plane tickets are expensive. The cheapest was around 1200 RMB, with round-trip tickets costing about 2500 RMB per person.
2. Essential Items
1) Clothing: Qinghai has a large temperature difference between day and night. Even in summer, daytime temperatures are only around 20°C (68°F). It is recommended to bring a windbreaker or a padded jacket, extra underwear and socks (bring several pairs as you may not have time to wash them), slippers, and other clothes based on your specific travel dates. Plan your outfits in advance. Girls can bring several brightly colored long dresses—they look great for styling. I regretted not bringing nice dresses...
2) Medicine: Cold medicine and stomach medicine are a must. (I got an upset stomach on the second day, probably due to the change in water/food.) If you are worried about altitude sickness, it is recommended to take Rhodiola in advance, though generally it's not a problem. Also, bring a few band-aids.
3) Skincare: The northwest region is very dry, so bring moisturizing skincare products and lip balm. Girls can bring a few sheet masks (after a day, washing up and putting on a mask before sleeping makes you feel great the next day).
4) Sun protection: Sunscreen with SPF 50+ is best (I recommend Anessa, it works great and I barely tanned). Sunglasses, sun-protective scarves, masks (for Mingsha Mountain), caps or other sun hats.
5) Personal toiletries.
6) Power banks for phones, camera batteries, chargers (airline limits apply for power banks; each person can carry two power banks under 20,000 mAh each; check with the airport before traveling—I brought one 20,000 mAh and one 10,000 mAh).
7) Backpack.
Other items can be packed according to your own needs.
About Costs:
The total cost for our group of four was 6000 RMB per person, including flights and entrance fees (which were quite expensive). Food and accommodation were reasonable. Except for the first night, we mostly booked triple rooms, which were fairly affordable even in peak season.
1) Flights: Round trip per person Shenzhen–Xining: 2500 + 500 (the 500 was for a one-way ticket from Xi'an to Xining because we missed our flight).
2) Car rental: Seven-seat Buick GL8, average 1500 per person.
3) Entrance fees:
Day 1: Tar Temple 80 RMB; Qinghai Lake 50 RMB per person (we didn't enter through the main gate, but used a local's back entrance hehe).
Day 2: Chaka Salt Lake ticket 50 RMB, small train 50 RMB (ask about the schedule before buying; we arrived at noon and the earliest tickets were for almost 2 PM, and due to long queues we didn't take the train). Round-trip electric cart 10 RMB; another ticket was 40 RMB (forgot the name).
Day 3: Yangguan ticket 60 + 20 RMB for electric cart (can buy online for a few RMB discount).
Day 4: Mogao Caves ticket 220 RMB (must book online in advance because visitor numbers are limited daily); Mingsha Mountain ticket 120 RMB, camel ride 100 RMB, sand sliding 15 RMB per time, sand buggy 150 or 200 RMB (forgot exact), photography 20 RMB.
Day 5: Jiayuguan cultural relics scenic area combo ticket 120 RMB (Jiayuguan + Hanging Great Wall + First Mound under Heaven); Rainbow Danxia ticket 74 RMB (can buy online).
Day 6: No paid tickets.
Day 7: Xining Ma Bufang Mansion ticket 30 RMB.
4) Food and accommodation: 7 nights in triple rooms, average about 280 RMB per night.
About Car Rental:
Initially we considered joining a tour group, but tour groups have time limits at each stop—hurry up, take a symbolic photo, and leave. Sometimes you don't even want to go in if it's crowded. So we decided to rent a car for the Qinghai loop. For one or two people, it's better to share a ride with others. For 4–7 people, you can rent a car directly. Book online in advance; it's best to choose a fleet with good scale and reputation, as you'll be together for 6–7 days. Safety is most important. I highly recommend our driver, Xiao Feng, who has been in tourism for years. He's a good person, has great driving skills. If you need one, you can contact him—he's reliable... You can message me and I'll give you his contact.
Itinerary begins:
Day 1:
The days before a holiday are always so busy that I only packed my luggage the night before. Luckily, even with only a few hours of sleep, I was full of energy. I met my companion at the airport at exactly 11 AM. In the afternoon, we arrived safely in the ancient cultural capital Xi'an. In Xi'an, we had to wait for my sister who was coming alone from Zhangjiajie to join us tomorrow. Since our flight to Xining was at 7 AM the next day, we quickly found accommodation, dropped off our luggage, and headed straight to Xi'an city center. And so began a rushed night tour of Xi'an...
Our beautiful Xiong served as photographer.
In the evening, the Bell Tower lit up.
During summer vacation, we visited Muslim Quarter. After eating a few super large lamb skewers, we quickly escaped... Too many people.
Day 2:
We had planned everything perfectly: a 7-something AM flight that would take just over an hour to reach Xining. But we missed our flight! Missed our flight! Missed our flight! Huh, we thought because we had a long layover in Xi'an on our Shenzhen–Xining ticket we didn't need to check in again. We arrived at the check-in counter 40 minutes early, but were a few minutes late—they wouldn't let us board. No choice but to buy new tickets. We arrived in Xining after 12 PM. Huh, luckily we had notified the driver in advance so he didn't wait too long. As soon as we got off the plane, we felt a chill. Quickly we took out windproof scarves to keep warm. Everything ready, the Qinghai trip officially began...
Tar Temple – Sun Moon Mountain – Qinghai Lake – Stay at Heimahe
Tar Temple, also known as Ta'er Temple, is named after the great silver pagoda inside the Great Golden Tile Temple, built to commemorate Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school (Yellow Hat sect). It is located in the lotus-shaped mountain hollow at the southwest corner of Huangzhong County. It is the birthplace of Tsongkhapa and one of the six major Gelug monasteries in Tibetan Buddhism, also a top scenic spot in Qinghai Province and a national key cultural relic protection unit.
We left Tar Temple around 4 PM and arrived at Heimahe close to 10 PM. Along the way, we crossed Laji Mountain at 3,820 meters altitude, passed by Liutang River, and entered Qinghai Lake at Cuorilangga... Outside the window, we could see sheep on Laji Mountain happily grazing, as if enjoying the post-rain feast...
At the top of Laji Mountain. PS: It was really a bit cold...
At Cuorilangga, it started drizzling, which made us a little disappointed...
Qinghai Lake without blue sky and white clouds—do you feel like the water is about to overflow?...
The picture below is borrowed from our driver's previous photos... different kind of beauty.
Haha, they say people who laugh often have good luck. Sure enough, as we were leaving, the sunset peeked out its little head... But it was already dark, so we didn't get many good photos.
Day 3:
Itinerary: Qinghai Lake sunrise – Chaka Salt Lake – Keluke Lake – Dachaidan (stay)
We planned to get up at 6 AM to watch the sunrise, but it was drizzling again...
A cute little yak standing on the grass after rain. I wonder what it was thinking...
We'll have to wait for another chance to see the sunrise at Qinghai Lake. On the way from Heimahe to Chaka, the weather gradually improved. We stayed at Xiangpi Mountain for over an hour. Surrounded by blue skies, white clouds, green grass, and cattle and sheep, we ran freely—what a joy!...
We arrived at the Sky Mirror—Chaka Salt Lake—around noon...
The salt lake was beautiful but also very hot. To avoid sunburn, we dressed fully protected. Look at the picture below—can you tell who is who? In the end, our faces were not tanned, but our feet were tanned into the shape of flip-flops...
Crossing the Qaidam Basin towards Dachaidan.
Driving on an endless road, we were completely lost in the breathtaking beauty... Amazed that the creator could produce such stunning scenery...
The picture below is a candid shot we took. PS: That driver was really fun, teaching them how to pose...
Now it was our turn... Start jumping!
Why couldn't my right foot jump up?...
Around 9 PM in Dachaidan, our hotel.
Day 4:
Itinerary: Nanbaxian Yardang Devil City – Dangjin Mountain – Yangguan – Mogao Caves – Dunhuang
From yesterday afternoon to this morning, the most frequent question we asked the driver was, 'Are we still in Qaidam?' Yes, still here! I'll let you in on a secret: our driver 'Jiushi' was catching up on sleep in the car because his roommate last night snored... But we still woke him up ruthlessly to take a beautiful group photo on the road.
Next to the Nanbaxian Devil City tracks, one side was overcast and the other side sunny...
Yardang landform is a world wonder and a unique landscape in the desert. As a natural phenomenon, there is nothing mysterious about it. Since the area does not accumulate magnetic material, there is no strong geomagnetic anomaly, so compasses won't malfunction. Yardang landform is a unique landscape in northwest China and a valuable tourism and adventure resource. The origin of the name 'Nanbaxian': In the 1950s, eight female geologists from the south entered this area to search for oil resources but lost their way and died. Hence the place is called 'Nanbaxian' (Eight Southern Immortals). Wind erosion landform is a great natural wonder of Qinghai.
Xiong's red dress was stunningly beautiful.
Were these camels waiting especially for us? I secretly rejoiced... Seeing them, I really wanted to ride one...
Around 6 PM we arrived at Yangguan... Pass through the pass and you're outside the frontier...
PS: Many of our group photos were taken using the phone's delayed shutter... so the clarity may not be great. But I love them too much, so I'll share them anyway—please forgive me.
I love this backlit silhouette the most.
As the sun set, we prepared to head to the next stop—Dunhuang.
At night, we searched for food at Dunhuang Night Market.
Day 5:
Itinerary: Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring – Mogao Caves – Stay in Dunhuang
The Mogao Caves, also known as the 'Thousand Buddha Caves', are located 25 km southeast of Dunhuang on the eastern cliff of Mingsha Mountain. They are one of the three great treasures of cave art in China. The caves were first carved in the second year of the Jianyuan era of the Former Qin dynasty (366 AD), and were expanded over successive dynasties. Today, there are 492 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals, and 2,415 painted sculptures. It is the largest and richest treasure house of cave art in China. In 1987, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Remember, during peak season you need to book tickets online in advance.
Our timing at Mingsha Mountain wasn't well planned. The camel ride took over 40 minutes. Then we queued for sand sliding, but we should have done sand sliding on the way down—it wasted a lot of time. By the time we reached the top, it was dark and we didn't see Crescent Spring. The picture below is borrowed from our driver... But I had been here five years ago, so no regrets—this was a revisit...
Five years ago I rode a sand buggy; this year I rode a camel—a different experience...
Tasty and cheap grapes.
Day 6:
Itinerary: Jiayuguan – Zhangye (stay)
It turns out that traveling is also a physical activity. By today, I wasn't feeling great; everyone was a bit tired. Plus it rained, so our mood wasn't as high as before... When we arrived at the First Pass Under Heaven, Jiayuguan, the rain stopped, and we could pose beautifully for photos again.
Sunflowers bought for one yuan outside the Hanging Great Wall.
Day 7:
Itinerary: Zhangye – Rainbow Danxia – Xining (Originally, today's plan was: Biandukou Scenic Area – Qilian Grassland – Distant view of Gangshika Snow Mountain – Menyuan Rapeseed Flowers – Xining. But unfortunately, a heavy rainstorm hit Xining just as we arrived, washing out 15 km of China's most beautiful national highway. So we had to change the route temporarily—a great pity.)
Yesterday we rushed from Jiayuguan to Zhangye. We were tired, and our driver suggested entering the park around 6 PM, but we overslept by over an hour. In the end, we could only visit two of the four viewing platforms, focusing on Platform 4 of Rainbow Danxia. It seems that only under sunlight can it show its full charm...
Look, the sun slowly peeks out its shy forehead.
Under the sunlight, it turned into pieces of streaky pork...
Did you know we were leaving? Look at that little expression...
Day 8:
Itinerary: Dongguan Mosque – Shenzhen
Along the way, there were too many delicious foods to introduce one by one. When you go to Qinghai, you must try the beef and mutton—it's a must. Also try the fermented glutinous rice (niangpi) and yogurt—have them all...
