Qinghai: Finding Your True Self
I had always yearned for the vast, mysterious, and sacred Northwest. Finally, this year, I made a trip to Qinghai to experience the purity and sanctity of the pristine Northwest, and to find my true self in the vastness of the world.
I went in May, taking the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop. Starting from Xining, I visited most of Qinghai's scenic spots before entering Gansu on the third day, and finally returning to Qinghai. Here is my travel route:
Day 1️⃣: Xining - Qinghai Lake - Chaka Salt Lake - Delingha
Day 2️⃣: Delingha - Dongtai Jiner Lake - Water Yadan - Nanbaxian - Dachaidan
Day 3️⃣: Dachaidan - Emerald Lake - Oil Town - Dunhuang Ancient City - Stay in Dunhuang City
Day 4️⃣: Dunhuang - Mogao Caves - Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring - Shazhou Night Market - Stay in Dunhuang City
Day 5️⃣: Dunhuang - Guazhou Service Area - Jiayuguan Pass - Zhangye Rainbow Danxia Geopark - Qicai Town
Day 6️⃣: Biandukou - Qilian Mountain Grassland - Menyuan Rapeseed Flowers - Daban Mountain - Xining
This 6-day trip gave me an overwhelming sense of awe. The Northwest overall feels vast, boundless, inclusive, pure, and passionate. Standing in the endless desert or on the boundless grasslands, you can shout to your heart's content, feeling the immensity of the universe, the breadth of the earth, and your own insignificance like a mayfly. The troubles of studying seemed trivial under such vastness; I felt relaxed, as if my chest opened wider with every breath.
Secondly, the purity here is remarkable. The people are very warm-hearted. The herders and locals are friendly, kind, and quick to strike up conversations as if we were old friends. I truly envied their lives—rising at sunrise, resting at sunset—unlike us city dwellers burdened by stress. Yet they work diligently and live their simple lives. Their happiness seems so easy to attain, carefree and joyful. Seeing them, I felt a deep envy, as if I were encountering reclusive immortals. I didn't want to leave; I wished I could stay here forever, carefree and happy.
Every scenery in the Northwest is breathtaking. Just off the plane, the sky was an unreal blue with pure white clouds, like a painting. Although the attractions are far apart and the car rides are a bit torturous, the different beauties make it worthwhile. Each spot has its unique charm. Below are the most impressive and must-visit places:
1. Of course, the "Emerald Lake" that I specifically came for. It truly lives up to its name: "clear azure water like emerald." It looks like a piece of beautiful jade fallen to earth, so blue it stirs the heart. According to the tour guide, Emerald Lake looks its best in good weather, but most of summer in Qinghai is sunny. If you encounter a rainy day, it's really unfortunate. It lies on the road from Golmud to Dunhuang, no need to detour. There are many lakes of various sizes. Drone shots of Emerald Lake are the most beautiful; many people brought drones. As a poor student, I could only envy and freeload photos from others. Arriving here, I was beyond excited—this was where Yi Yangqianxi had walked! A line came to mind: "I've blown the wind you've blown, does that count as an embrace? I've walked the road you've walked, does that count as a meeting?" Ahhh! So excited!
2. Qinghai Lake, known as the "Sapphire on the Plateau," truly lives up to its name. Before the car even approached, I saw the water meeting the sky, a clear blue, pure and bright, like entering a fairyland. It seemed there were only two colors in the world: blue (lake and sky) and green (newborn grassland). It made me feel relaxed and broad-minded. I wore a white dress for photos; I think pure white matches the place. But many wore red dresses. Though the collision rate is high, it looked beautiful. The lake breeze lifted the skirt, a smile over the shoulder—no need to edit photos, you looked like a fairy.
3. Chaka Salt Lake, "Mirror of the Sky." It's not far from Qinghai Lake, but it adds a layer of pure white. Underfoot is white salt; overhead is the seemingly reachable blue sky. Wear a white or red long dress. Shadows, clouds, and mountains reflect in the mirror-like lake. Everyone on social media asks where it is.
4. Mogao Caves. As a world-famous art treasury, even a non-expert like me was profoundly awed. The various murals and Buddha statues gave a feeling of dreaming through a thousand years, a sense of time travel.
5. Movie and TV drama fans must visit Dunhuang Film and TV Ancient City and Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring. Many desert scenes are filmed here—like "The Legend of the Gods" at Dunhuang Film City, and "The Ballad of the Desert" at Crescent Moon Spring. Wearing a red robe in the vast desert, "East Palace" fans must check in!
Anyway, all the places I visited were beautiful. Since I don't like spending lots of time taking photos and am not very photogenic, I didn't take many pictures. But I think the most beautiful scenery stays in the heart as the best memory. As long as the weather is good, these spots won't disappoint!
Here are some tips:
✅ Clothing: Wear brightly colored dresses, like red or white. The overall tone is blue and green; desert areas are yellowish-brown. Wearing similar colors might cause you to blend in with the background, making photos less attractive. Also bring thick clothes and a sun-protective jacket, as the temperature difference between day and night is large. Tourists can experience all four seasons in one day, so prepare accordingly. Sunscreen, sunglasses, sun-protective cream, and an umbrella are essential—the UV is strong on the plateau, and you can easily get sunburned. It's advisable to wear a sun-protective jacket all day and change into dresses only for photos.
✅ Food: 🥘 Local specialties include kangguo (braised pot), noodle slices, bowl-mixed noodles, paozhang (a type of noodle), yak yogurt, cold-skin noodles, highland barley sweet ferment, and beef jerky. They are delicious and very cheap—you can eat your fill for just over ten yuan. Before leaving, you can buy highland wild goji berries, beef jerky, and cordyceps, which are highly nutritious.
✅ Medicine: Bring some anti-altitude sickness medicine. Rhodiola rosea can be taken in advance; oxygen bags are also necessary. But I contacted a guide who prepared everything for me, so I didn't worry. (By the way, the guide also took great photos!)
✅ Accommodation & Transport: I didn't prepare anything for lodging or transport. Originally I planned to travel independently, but after checking online guides and preparing, I realized the area was too large and distances between attractions far, with inconvenient transport. I contacted a local private guide—a wise decision. The guide arranged everything for the 6-day trip, costing about 2,500 yuan in total. The accommodations were comfortable and clean, though not as good as city star hotels, but quite nice for remote areas. The vehicle was clean and odor-free. The guide was warm and easygoing, stopping anytime for photos, and introduced us to local customs.
In short, the Qinghai trip was both satisfying and affordable. Prices in the western region are low, but the scenery is stunning—a paradise for budget travelers with great value. I still can't believe I spent only 2,500 yuan for 6 days. It was an unforgettable journey!