Ultimate Experience｜A 3-Day, 2-Night 'Mars Trip' to Eboliang
When you think of the vast Northwest, the Gobi Desert, sand dunes, and Mogao Caves may come to mind, but the real hardcore experience lies even further west—toward the 'Northwest of the Northwest.'
This time, I will traverse 40 kilometers of uninhabited yardang landforms, giving an incredible sensation akin to interstellar travel. The place on Earth that 'most resembles Mars,' the mysterious 'Demon City' of the Gobi, and the sci-fi scenes from 'The Martian' can all be seen in the vast Northwest!
Day 1: Dunhuang – Boluo Zhuanjing Oil Town (filming location of 'The Ghouls') – Lenghu Oil Ruins – Black Mountain Gobi – Lenghu Town
Day 2: Eboliang Yardang Landforms – Mars Geological Park – Jinyan Lake – Dongtai
Day 3: Water Yardang – U-shaped Highway – Xiao Chaidan Lake (can be replaced with Emerald Lake) – Dunhuang
Qinghai Province takes its name from 'Qinghai Lake,' the largest lake in China by area. Qinghai is sparsely populated, with high terrain in the north and south, low in the middle, and high in the west. Elevation decreases stepwise from west to east, with the eastern part being the lowest. It borders Gansu to the north and east, Xinjiang to the northwest, Tibet to the south and southwest, and Sichuan to the southeast, located in the northwestern region of China's four major geographical divisions.
Qinghai does not have the dense transportation network of inland tourist cities; the attractions are far apart. This place is naturally suited for self-driving trips, allowing you to enjoy the scenery along the way or even encounter rare wildlife. Activities include horse riding and camel riding at some spots. It is advisable to bring a pair of comfortable, easy-to-walk flat shoes.
Qinghai has a plateau continental climate with long sunshine hours, strong radiation, large temperature differences between day and night, small annual temperature differences, long winters, cool summers, and an average temperature of about 20°C, making it an excellent summer retreat. Both light and heavy clothing are needed; it is common to wear short sleeves during the day and a down jacket at night in midsummer. If you plan to photograph the stars at night, warm gloves and a hat are essential.
About Altitude Sickness
The altitude in the Northwest ranges from 2,000 to 4,000 meters. Altitude sickness may only occur above 3,500 meters, so there is no need to worry too much. Generally, the Northwest is not exceptionally high. If you are concerned, you can take Rhodiola rosea in advance to help prevent altitude sickness.
About Photography Gear
A smartphone with good camera functionality is the most convenient.
Then there is the portable camera, which varies from person to person. For example, I myself use:
One smartphone, one A7R3, one A7s3 + 14mm + G24-105 + GM70-200,
and a DJI Mavic 2 Pro – the God's eye view is the ultimate, offering a perspective different from common high-angle shots, better showcasing the vastness here (unfortunately, it crashed gloriously on this trip).
Of course, you can also bring a sketchbook like I did, drawing oddly shaped rocks and mountains, which is quite enjoyable.
For this trip, I chose the Hongqi HS7 flagship SUV. With a 5-meter-long body and true two-row spacious interior, it features leather seats and aviation headrests, providing not only comfortable seating but also ample space for everyone's luggage and gear. Another reason for choosing it is the smooth and fuel-efficient engine and transmission, the adaptive chassis that easily handles winding mountain roads at altitudes of 3,000 meters, plus L2.5-level driving assistance, facial recognition, fatigue monitoring, dual 12.3-inch high-definition screens with AR navigation, all adding a surrealistic feel to the journey and providing a truly VIP-level driving experience.
Arriving in Dunhuang by plane, after a short rest, we drove the Hongqi HS7 out of the city and began our three-day adventure in the vast Northwest.
Day 1: Dunhuang – Boluo Zhuanjing Oil Town (filming location of 'The Ghouls') – Lenghu Oil Ruins – Black Mountain Gobi – Lenghu Town
Transportation: Self-driving, 250 km total, 5 hours drive. With stops for photos, we departed at 8 a.m. and arrived at our accommodation in Lenghu Town at 10 p.m.
Route: Exit the G3011 expressway at Dachaidan, head west along National Highway 315, known as 'China's Route 66,' passing Qarhan Salt Lake. This route is shorter but has more traffic; watch your speed.
'Outdoor Set of The Ghouls' – Aksay Boluo Zhuanjing Oil Town
Starting from Dunhuang, our first destination is Aksay Boluo Zhuanjing Oil Town, the outdoor set of 'The Ghouls.' It is about 100 kilometers south of Dunhuang. Navigate directly to 'Boluo Zhuanjing Town.'
After two hours of self-driving, we went from a modern city deep into a desert area. The roadside was lined with the endless Altun Mountains, driving alone through the vast Gobi Desert, accompanied only by the surrounding yellow earth and mountains.
Gradually, we arrived at the old county town site of Boluo Zhuanjing Town in Aksay Kazakh Autonomous County, located at the foot of Dangjin Mountain. Aksay County is the only autonomous county in Gansu Province with a Kazakh majority and one of three Kazakh autonomous counties in China.
Driving into the streets, a scene of utter desolation unfolded. On both sides of the dilapidated streets, crumbling walls and abandoned buildings lay lifelessly scattered.
This is a town that rose and fell with oil. It has been deserted for nearly 20 years, but it is not as large as Lenghu Oil Town; you can walk through it entirely.
We stopped briefly. Some things that appeared in the movie are already gone, but some new modifications and decorations have been added based on the original structures.
Oil Ruins [Lenghu Oil Town]
We continued driving south for two hours to reach Lenghu Oil Town.
On the vast Gobi Desert of Mangya City, Qinghai, lies a huge complex of abandoned buildings with wide, crisscrossing roads and rows of houses, but the streets are completely empty. It is indeed much larger than Aksay Boluo Zhuanjing Oil Town.
This abandoned complex is called the Lenghu Oil Base Ruins. It was once a bustling town at the junction of Qinghai, Xinjiang, and Gansu, another town that rose and fell with oil.
Before the last century, this area was a desolate no-man's land, rarely visited by humans and frequented by wild beasts. It is also one of the places in Asia with the most sunshine—over 3,500 hours, with a sunshine percentage exceeding 80%, ranking third in the world. It is an extremely arid region of China with very harsh natural conditions.
The change came on September 13, 1958. When the drill bit of Rig 1219 reached a certain depth in 'Well No. 4 in the Earth,' crude oil gushed out, reportedly for three days and three nights. From then on, Lenghu became one of China's four major oil fields at the time (the other three were Yumen, Karamay, and Sichuan), marking a glorious chapter. At its peak, the town of Lenghu was even established.
With the discovery of oil, more and more oil workers moved to Lenghu with their families, forming a super town with a population of 40,000 to 50,000. It had schools, hospitals, dance halls, cinemas, hotels, inns, and more. Vehicles bustled, lights shone brightly, and it was lively and prosperous, earning the nickname 'Little Hong Kong of the Northwest.'
Unfortunately, with the discovery of oil in Dunhuang, Lenghu's oil gradually dried up. People who once lived here moved away to Dunhuang one after another. Slowly, Lenghu Oil Town became deserted. Over time, exposed to wind, sun, and rain, the buildings fell into disrepair and collapsed, and Lenghu Oil Town gradually faded from memory.
Today, Lenghu Oil Town is a ruin with no intact houses. It is said that beams, doors, door frames, and furniture made of wood were taken away, leaving only piles of yellow earth and sand and gravel. At the entrance stands a stone tablet inscribed with 'Lenghu Oil Base Ruins.' The population has dwindled to just 20,000, mostly former oil workers and their descendants.
Driving along the main road, we saw rows of dilapidated houses on both sides. On the walls, there were powerful yet weathered slogans, as if we could see the bustling oil extraction scenes of the past.
Stepping inside a house, there was nothing but bricks. Climbing onto a wall, we could see the distant Qilian Mountains in the distance, their peaks covered with snow. A gust of wind blew, raising a cloud of sand.
From above, the straight roads and orderly, large-scale houses give a glimpse of its former prosperity. Now it is empty and abandoned, submerged in history as if forgotten, evoking a sigh.
Like Iceland: [Black Single Mountain]
Black Single Mountain was our favorite spot on this Qinghai trip. Currently, there is almost no information about it online. It is an extremely niche and undeveloped destination, not a scenic area, and there is no admission fee.
My self-driving route looped back near Lenghu Oil Town, so the actual location of Black Single Mountain is opposite the Lenghu Oil Base. If you spend more time in Lenghu, you can also go directly from Lenghu to Black Single Mountain; you can see this black mountain gobi from afar, about 2 kilometers away.
Due to the harsh climate of Lenghu Town, the natural landscape here is unique. The endless Gobi Desert presents a spectacular vista.
If you want to photograph the stars, you can camp at the ruins. On clear nights, you can see the Milky Way clearly. If camping, be sure to go in a group and prioritize safety, as the surroundings are desolate.
First Glimpse of the Most Mars-like [Yardang Landforms]
Continuing south from Lenghu Oil Town, we entered the area of yardang landforms. In fact, this entire large area of yardang in Lenghu and indeed most of Haixi is called the Eboliang Yardang Landform Group. The place tourists visit is a specific part of this area, not far from the Mars Camp. I will head to the Mars Camp tomorrow.
This scene was so photogenic that we lit a fire, chatted, and rested for a while until dusk.
Day 1 Accommodation: Lenghu Town
The self-driving tour of Eboliang far exceeded expectations. I wanted to stay longer, even sleep in the car to photograph the stars, but the accommodation in Lenghu Town had already been charged. It took about 40 minutes to drive to the lodging. Lenghu Town has few hotels, with average conditions and relatively high prices, so book a room in advance; otherwise, you may not find one.
Day 2: Eboliang Yardang Landforms – Mars Geological Park – Jinyan Lake – Dongtai
Transportation: Self-driving, 200 km total, 4 hours drive
Route: Head toward the Mars Geological Park.
Accommodation: Since we arrived late, we stayed at the Dongtai service area.
Eboliang Yardang Landforms [Mars Geological Park]
On the second day, we visited the Mars Geological Park. There is little online information about this location. Navigate to 'Mars Camp.' It took about two hours from Lenghu Town.
Mars Camp is an exhibition hall at the entrance of the Mars Geological Park, where you can rent spacesuits and alien leather jackets.
Self-driving cars first gather at the Mars Geological Park, then install electronic barriers, and follow the designated route (safe route) to view the unique Eboliang yardang geology. No need to worry about getting lost or getting stuck in sand; there are also hot springs at the top of the mountain.
Eboliang is part of the largest yardang landform group in China—the Qaidam Yardang Landform Group—and the most stunning part.
The individual yardangs vary in shape, forming a natural yardang museum. It is the most complete and concentrated area of all yardang types.
A few years ago, Eboliang Yardang was already somewhat famous, but it had a low profile in the tourism industry, mostly visited by off-road enthusiasts. After all, the roads through the yardangs are complex and easy to get lost on; the surfaces are soft sand, easily causing vehicles to get stuck. It was not suitable for ordinary self-drivers.
However, since last summer when the Haixi route became popular, more and more off-road vehicles have entered. The main routes have been compacted into hard sand roads by many wheels. As long as you follow the tire tracks and avoid paths without traces, it is generally safe.
This place is called 'the most Mars-like place in China.' There are no rules or patterns; everything is created arbitrarily by nature. Suddenly, we felt we were driving on Mars.
The wind-eroded remnants, each with different poses, are like warships with sails set, continuously stretching into the distance.
Barren, desolate, rugged almost to the point of brutality. It feels like a huge maze.
Driving through the yardangs not only provides a stunning visual impact but also gives the thrill of galloping through the wilderness.
As we drove through Eboliang, the howling wind rushed past the window, making a demon-like wailing sound; outside the window, there was no human trace, and yellow sand flew behind the car—it felt like passing through 'hell,' full of excitement.
China's Maldives: [West/East Taijinar Lake]
Taijinar Lake is located in the hinterland of the Qaidam Basin. Its solid salt minerals are mainly rock salt. The lake's color differs from Qinghai Lake; due to high copper content, the water appears bright green, with white crystals covering the shores. West Taijinar Lake and East Taijinar Lake were originally one lake, later separated by lake retreat.
The water of West Taijinar Lake is green on one side and blue on the other, distinctly different. The road cuts through the middle—beautiful! The road surface is uneven due to lake water erosion, like a washboard road, about 17 kilometers long.
The lakebed is rich in rock salt deposits. Most of it has been claimed by a large enterprise as a raw material base for potash fertilizer production.
East Taijinar Lake, known as the Chinese version of 'Maldives,' has become a popular online attraction in Qinghai. West Taijinar Lake is not far from it. Both lakes lie in an uninhabited area, visited only by occasional self-drivers and photography enthusiasts, so there are very few tourists.
At sunset at East Taijinar, water yardangs rise in various forms on the lake surface, with yellow sand, blue lake, and yardangs—this combination is astonishing. The daytime and sunset bring different moods and different longings!
Day 2 Accommodation: Dongtai Service Area
The small inn in the service area is convenient, and the conditions are acceptable. There are no air conditioners, but they are not needed here. When the weather is cold, you can turn on underfloor heating or radiators, which is quite nice.
Day 3: Water Yardang – U-shaped Highway – Xiao Chaidan Lake (can be replaced with Emerald Lake) – Dunhuang
Transportation: Self-driving, 500 km total, 9 hours drive. We departed at 8 a.m. and returned to Dunhuang at 7 p.m. We passed by Xiao Chaidan Lake and did not go to Emerald Lake; you can choose to go to Emerald Lake instead.
Route: From National Highway 315 toward Xiao Chaidan Lake, then onto Liuge Expressway, then onto National Highway 215, back to Liuge Expressway, then back to National Highway 215 and return to Dunhuang.
The World's Only: [Wusute (Water) Yardang Geological Park]
The Water Yardang Geological Park is the only water yardang landform in the world. It formed when the water level of Jinyan Lake rose and gradually submerged the northern yardang group, like a 'vast ocean' suddenly appearing in the endless desert.
The yardang landforms on the Gobi resemble migrating whales, swimming in the same direction by the hundreds. The yardangs are diverse and abundant, scattered across the lake. This is the earliest water yardang landscape discovered in the world. Originally, there was no water here. One year, a mountain flood diverted the course of the Nalinggele River, which originates from the Kunlun Mountains, flooding this area and creating the water yardang landforms.
It seems as though the Earth waved its hand and raised the lake to engulf those rocky yardangs, forming a unique water yardang.
'Yardang' in Uyghur means 'a small hill with steep slopes.'
During spring and autumn, flocks of waterbirds and wild ducks either soar in the blue sky, play in the shimmering lake water, or run and chase on the yardangs. Therefore, locals call it Duck Lake, and tourists call it 'Hundred Birds Thousand Islands Lake.'
The ochre-colored water yardangs are dyed orange-red by the setting sun, while the lake water turns deep blue with the sky, creating a strong contrast. With only a gentle breeze, the water is as calm as a mirror.
In the past, when people talked about yardang landforms, they first thought of the Demon City in Dunhuang and Xinjiang, unaware that the Qaidam Basin in Qinghai also hides such an exceptionally beautiful and little-known landscape.
Even locals only learned about this stunning scenery in the last two years. It's no wonder; the water yardangs are beautiful but located deep in the vast desert. Apart from Dachaidan Town, 240 kilometers away, there is not a single decent town nearby.
Some say: It is a jade in the Gobi, a forgotten world; some say: It is a paradise for explorers; others say: It is a death zone where angels and demons coexist. Even today, few people know about it, and even fewer come to see this wonder!
China's Route 66: [G315 U-shaped Highway]
Driving north from Dongtai, the G315 U-shaped Highway has become a popular check-in spot in the past two years, known as 'China's Route 66.' The direct impression of the road is: 'This is going to the sky!'
However, for safety reasons, do not sit or lie in the middle of the road for photos. Vehicles passing by generally travel at speeds above 60 km/h. Especially at the top of the U-shaped road, it is the driver's blind spot; you cannot be seen until the last moment, and sometimes cars go up to 100 km/h. Prolonged posing that obstructs traffic is also a traffic violation.
About 30 meters from the highway, there is a raised dirt slope where vehicles can park and stop to view the magnificent scenery of the U-shaped highway section.
Don't Miss: [Xiao Chaidan Lake]
We originally planned to go to Dachaidan Emerald Lake, but we ran out of time. Checking nearby, we found Xiao Chaidan Lake.
Xiao Chaidan Lake, also called Xiao Qaidam Lake, is located in Haixi Mongolian and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, at an altitude of 3,216 meters. It is a lake on the Tibetan Plateau. It lies at the intersection of the Dexiao Expressway and the Liuge Expressway. If your route is from Delingha directly to Dachaidan, you will miss this beautiful scene.
The lake is calm and deep, mirroring the sky. Sheep graze on the lakeside grass, creating a peaceful and tranquil scene. From above, this gem is surrounded by salt crystal borders and wetland grasses, turning it into an intricately carved ornament left behind in the vast Gobi.
This was an unexpected gain on this trip. I hope to have another chance to revisit all the places we didn't explore thoroughly this time.
The three-day journey inspires awe—both for the wonders of nature and for the ruins of Lenghu Oil Town.
There is a song that was very popular among geological surveyors back then, perfectly matching the mood of this trip:
It is the wind in the valley that blows our red flag;
It is the violent rain that washes our tent.
We have a fiery passion, overcoming all fatigue and cold.
We shoulder our packs, climb range after range, filled with endless hope, seeking abundant mineral deposits for our motherland!
It is the countless rivers that converge into the vast sea.
We devote our infinite wisdom to the motherland and the people.
We have a fiery passion, overcoming all fatigue and cold.
Shoulder our packs, climb range after range, filled with endless hope, seeking abundant mineral deposits for our motherland!
It is the stars in the sky that light our lamps;
It is the birds in the forest that announce the dawn.
We have a fiery passion, overcoming all fatigue and cold.
Should our packs, climb range after range, filled with endless hope, seeking abundant mineral deposits for our motherland!
This was the most popular song of that era, the most heroic song, and the aspiration of countless young people.
Salute to the innovative young people!
