A62-011. Traveling with Wife and Daughter in China: Summer 2014 Northwestern Adventure (D11)

Day 11 (August 6)

A. Visit Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring.

B. Visit Mogao Caves.

C. Dinner at Shazhou Night Market stalls.

Mingsha Mountain is located 7 km south of Dunhuang city. In ancient times, it was called Divine Sand Mountain or Sand Horn Mountain. It is named for the sound made by the moving sand. The mountain is formed by drifting sand, stretching about 40 km east-west and about 20 km north-south, with a highest elevation of 1715 meters.

The sand dunes of Mingsha Mountain link together, with peaks as sharp as blades. Seen from afar, they undulate like a winding dragon or waves in the sea, a magnificent sight. The sand comes in five colors: pink, yellow, green, white, and black. It is sparkling, crystal clear, and free of dust. When rubbed or vibrated, it produces a sound—soft like the music of string and wind instruments, loud like thunder. According to historical records, on clear days, even when the wind stops and the sand is still, a sound like that of strings and pipes can be heard, as if music is playing. Hence, "Sand Hill Clear Sound" is a scenic spot of Dunhuang. This is a miraculous natural phenomenon, renowned through the ages as a "desert wonder" and hailed as "the finest scenery beyond the Great Wall."

Below the sand dunes of Mingsha Mountain is a damp sand layer. When wind blows, the sand vibrates, and the sound resonates with this layer, hence the name.

Crescent Moon Spring lies at the foot of Mingsha Mountain. In ancient times, it was called Sand Well, and popularly known as Medicine Spring. The area is rich in herbs like apocynum and Chinese wolfberry. Since the Han Dynasty, it has been one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Dunhuang," known as "Crescent Spring at Dawn." The spring is nearly 100 meters long from north to south and about 25 meters wide from east to west. The water is deeper in the east and shallower in the west, with a maximum depth of about 5 meters. Curved like a crescent moon, it is thus named and is known as the "First Spring under the Desert."

Crescent Moon Spring has four wonders: its crescent shape remains unchanged for millennia; clear water flows in a harsh environment; it is not buried by sand in the sand mountain; and the old fish in the ancient pond are said to grant longevity when eaten. The best time to visit Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring is in the evening or at dusk.

The three treasures of Crescent Moon Spring, also called the three treasures of Dunhuang, are the iron-back fish, five-colored sand, and seven-star grass.

Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring form a single scenic area. The ticket price is 120 yuan per person, and renting sand-proof leggings costs 15 yuan per pair.

The camel ride at Mingsha Mountain costs 100 yuan per person. The camel route is the longest among the three deserts I have visited, roughly in the shape of a heart, giving a strong sense of desert riding. The downhill return is a bit thrilling.

Tired camels!

Mogao Caves, also known as the "Thousand Buddha Caves," are located at the foot of Mingsha Mountain, 25 km southeast of Dunhuang county town. They are named after Mogao Town. It is the largest and most famous Buddhist art cave complex in China, spread across three or four levels on the cliffs of Mingsha Mountain, stretching 1,600 meters. There are 492 existing caves, with a total mural area of about 45,000 square meters and over 2,100 painted clay sculptures and statues. The caves vary in size, and the statues range from tall to short—some are grand and imposing, others exquisite and delicate. Their artistic depth and rich imagination are astonishing.

Mogao Caves is ranked first among China's three major cave complexes. The ticket price is 160 yuan per person, which includes a guided tour. Each guide leads about 30 visitors. During peak season, usually eight caves are open to the public; in low season, twelve caves can be visited. Most caves have protective walls built outside, making them look like rows of offices. This protects the murals, but visually, they lack the awe-inspiring impact of the other two major cave complexes. Truly, the greater the expectation, the greater the disappointment—the ticket price doesn't feel justified, except for those who can truly appreciate them.