Through All Seasons, Through Desolation, Yet Never Beyond One Qilian Mountain. Fifth Stop of the Northwest Grand Loop: Qinghai Lake Grand Loop (Part 2)
Departing from Dachaidan, heading north along the Liuge Expressway, accompanied by the Qilian Mountains, today's destination is Dunhuang. Upon reaching the foot of Dangjin Mountain, the Liuge Expressway suddenly ends. Perhaps because Dangjin Mountain is too high and the engineering is difficult, the Dangjin Mountain section of the Liuge Expressway is still under construction, and at this point, we must turn onto National Highway 215.
Dangjin Mountain, located at the junction of Qinghai, Xinjiang, and Gansu provinces, at an altitude of 3,700 meters, is the connecting point between the Altun Mountains to the west and the Qilian Mountains to the east. In the past, it was a place rarely visited by humans and where birds did not linger.
After passing Dangjin Mountain, it's all downhill. Looking down from Dangjin Mountain at the northwestern wilderness, the desolation and boundlessness of Gansu lie right before your eyes.
Exploring the Aksai Oil Town
The first stop in Gansu is the Aksai Oil Town at the foot of Dangjin Mountain, the filming location for many movies such as "The Ghouls" and "West Wind", now developed into a film studio. Movie props have become photo spots for tourists. There's a saying: "Arriving at Oil Town, everyone becomes a drama queen!" Familiar movie scenes ignite everyone's creative desire, and as far as the eye can see, there are drama queens everywhere.
Just entering the dilapidated streets of the town, we saw a group of people in the distance, armed with cameras, taking pictures of a monster. Clearly, the "monster" had lost its dignity under relentless harassment.
Five-year-old Qi Xiaobao also jumped onto a brick wall, striking a challenging pose. It seemed that today the "monsters" were about to lose their composure!
At least pretend to hide, okay? Look how angry the monster is!
Qi's mom also joined in, pointing at the monster's nose as if scolding it. Such fierce aggression!
Mother and son working together, turning the tables.
If you can't win, run! Qi Xiaobao's footwork is impressive!
This is a scene from the movie "The Ghouls". The thrilling movie scenes remain forever in this dilapidated street of Aksai.
Who can shout louder? Qi Xiaobao could barely hide his nervousness, clearly losing in momentum.
A mother is strong for her child! Qi's mom stepped in! With a "lion's roar" that was fierce and stern, she directly subdued the monster!
What is real domination!
The thrill of the movie lies in its connection to everyday life. Qi Xiaobao is very concerned about the situation of the children at this Guangcai Kindergarten.
Today, the sky was dark with storm clouds, giving a feeling of an impending downpour. The gloomy sky fitted the tone of "The Ghouls" perfectly.
Qi's mom posed with a deep expression in front of a ruined wall. The ruined scene is also a good place for photos.
The existence of Aksai Oil Town allows you to openly step into modern ruins. Qi's mom made good use of this opportunity.
There is beauty in imperfection.
Qi's mom has become increasingly skilled at photography. She is adept at posing against the scene. Photography is a skill that can be cultivated, and Qi's mom has improved!
On the rooftop, a fighter jet, another movie set design.
Every scene here looks familiar, all traceable to the two films "The Ghouls" and "West Wind".
The movie set design makes it easy to find suitable angles for photos, as if our creative desire has been unlocked.
Come on! Let the storm rage even more fiercely! Even this can be photographed! Clearly, the drama queen has taken over!
Qi Xiaobao easily rode the monster, making Qi's dad sigh with emotion! Time flies! The little one has grown up so fast!
Starting to show off! Qi Xiaobao looks incredibly cool!
Each photo is cooler than the last!
Seeing Qi's mom's confident smile while taking photos, it's clear there's a reason why Qi Xiaobao loves to show off!
Qi's mom is almost obsessively strict about her figure. Her often-repeated saying is "One pound ruins everything." Qi's dad, who is already sliding into the "ruined" category, is quite dismissive of this. However, as the family photographer, Qi's mom does look better in photos, but that doesn't stop Qi's dad from continuing his dismissive attitude! Is he being a bit of a contrarian? Well, that's what happens when you're fat! Being fat makes you argumentative! Haha!
The Past and Present of Oil Town
In 1983, the Aksai Oil Town was attacked overnight for unknown reasons. The once bustling town became deserted and turned into ruins. Two years later, scientific expedition members arrived and discovered that the town had been attacked by monsters, leading to its complete destruction. This is the plot of director Lu Chuan's 2015 film "The Ghouls".
In the film, the mysterious disappearance of the town sparks endless imagination. The Oil Town was built for modern industry but encountered the hunting of ancient mysterious forces one night. The town, built over years, turned into a ghost town overnight, fading into the vast desert.
In reality, this small town once existed. During its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, up to 100,000 people came to the Qaidam Basin to pan for gold. When the fever faded, like the tide, only silence remained. Walking in the empty, well-equipped town, one could still feel the prosperity of that time.
According to the driver of the electric cart in the town, the decline of the small city was mainly due to water. The groundwater here is rich in heavy metals, and most residents suffered from stones. Eventually, medical experts found the cause in the water. In such a desert deep, without drinkable water, life and prosperity could not continue, and the town declined from prosperity to ruin.
Qi's mom stood in the middle of the street, looking around. The town's former prosperity was gone. On the sign behind her, the film title had become the most prominent marker. As the wind and clouds changed, the desert at the foot of the mountain raised a cloud of yellow sand, sweeping toward the small town. The past and present of Oil Town seemed to connect in this swirling dust.
The Aksai City at the foot of Dangjin Mountain is the Aksai Kazakh Autonomous County, a desert area.
The further we went, the more we felt we were entering the heart of the desert. After crossing dozens of kilometers of sand dunes, we entered the territory of Dunhuang City.
The reason we chose Dunhuang is due to the planning of this Qinghai Lake Grand Loop. We started from Xining, first west, then north, making a large clockwise circle around Qinghai Lake. Dunhuang happened to be on this circle. As the starting point of the ancient Silk Road, the endpoint of the Hexi Corridor, and the location of the Mogao Caves, Dunhuang was an indispensable part of our trip. To make it more fitting, we booked the Hexi Corridor Hotel in Dunhuang, adding some cultural connotation to this leg of the journey.
Arriving in Dunhuang relatively early, to appease our hungry stomachs, Qi's dad and mom decided to dine in their room. Northwestern cuisine is largely similar; lamb is essential, along with braised noodles with donkey meat, hand-grabbed lamb, hand-torn flatbread, and the steamed turbot that Qi Xiaobao had been craving for days. A table of food quickly disappeared. In terms of eating, Qi's dad has the greatest capacity in the family. "A big belly can hold things hard to hold in the world; always laughing, laughing at the laughable people in the world." Oh no! Why did that phrase come to mind! This is the rhythm of getting fat!
To relieve the pressure of a full meal, Qi's dad suggested a walk to Shazhou Night Market. Shazhou Night Market is in the center of Dunhuang, a 20-minute walk from Hexi Corridor Hotel. Qi's dad and mom chose to walk with Qi Xiaobao. At 10 p.m., the night market was brightly lit, bustling with people. The food street was filled with continuous hawking, and the commercial street was crowded, a scene of prosperity!
This is a leisure place where merchants gather and tourists flock. According to merchants, it starts from noon every day and ends at 3 a.m., a true night market. Qi's dad, who comes from the prosperous east, was truly surprised to see such a bustling night market in such a desolate northwestern area!
Mogao Caves Under the Scorching Sun
The highlight of the second day was the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang. To visit the Mogao Caves, we had to take a bus from the Mogao Caves Digital Museum to the Mogao Caves scenic area, which is a considerable distance. Arriving under the scorching sun, we first got a Mogao Caves popsicle to cool down! Since the success of the Palace Museum's cultural and creative products, similar products have sprung up at various classic scenic spots, and all sorts of oddly shaped popsicles have been born.
Qi Xiaobao is holding the Nine-Story Tower, a landmark of the Mogao Caves.
When Qi's dad and mom first visited the Mogao Caves five years ago, it was at the end of October. It was just after the National Day Golden Week, and there were few tourists. We could book official tickets for the Mogao Caves the day before, allowing us to visit them leisurely and fully. This time, we encountered the summer vacation crowd and could only get emergency tickets, which only allowed us to visit four caves, significantly diminishing the experience.
In terms of stone carvings, the Mogao Caves are not the most prominent among all grottoes, but that does not prevent them from being the representative of the entire Chinese grotto culture. The mural art represented by the Flying Apsaras series in the Mogao Caves is unparalleled in the entire history of Chinese art, shining brightly in the galaxy of Chinese art.
The Mogao Caves remain unchanged, spanning a thousand years, silently waiting in the vast desert for visitors.
While waiting in line, Qi Xiaobao made a friend. They held hands like old friends, happily chatting about their experiences (mainly showing off and bragging, haha!). The world of children shows that relationships between people can be so simple and beautiful! In contrast, the innocence of children makes us, tangled in the adult world, feel quite ashamed.
The caves were crowded, and photography was not allowed. Qi's dad and mom only wanted to give Qi Xiaobao a taste of the experience, helping him form a basic impression of the Mogao Caves. So they quickly finished visiting the caves and came out, starting Qi's mom's favorite time for beautiful photos.
Come on, take a photo at the landmark! Having just said goodbye to his new friend, Qi Xiaobao struck a pose with high spirits. It seems social interaction brings joy! People cannot escape being social creatures, not even children!
Happy times, with you and me!
The midday light was extremely strong, and ultraviolet rays were rampant. Qi's mom was well-protected, but poor Qi's dad, who dislikes fuss, found every day in the northwest to be an ultimate test for his skin.
Qi's mom bloomed like a flower under the scorching sun. Travel is the best tonic! No wonder! A trip beats a collagen boost! At least for Qi's mom.
Qi Xiaobao stood in front of the Mogao Caves Exhibition Center, which houses many artifacts from the Mogao Caves.
This three-headed, six-armed Buddha statue dates back to the Northern Wei period.
This Buddha statue still retains characteristics of Indian Buddha statues.
The Thousand-Armed, Thousand-Eyed Guanyin, a work from the Liao and Jin dynasties.
This 13th-century gilded Yogini Tara statue captivated Qi's mom, who loves yoga, for a long time. The vivid expression and streamlined limbs perfectly interpret the beauty of the female body on this statue.
Baked by the afternoon heat, Qi's dad and mom hurriedly ended their visit to the Mogao Caves with Qi Xiaobao. The scorching temperature in the desert made everyone lose interest. At that moment, Qi's dad just wanted to return to the hotel room, turn on the air conditioner, and lie flat. The family reached a high consensus to end the day's itinerary.
The evening's Dunhuang Grand Ceremony was equally spectacular. To spark Qi Xiaobao's enthusiasm, Qi's dad told him the performance was magical, like a movie. Qi Xiaobao was full of anticipation.
"The Dunhuang Grand Ceremony" tells the love story of Princess Green Pearl and the painter Mo Ding, narrating the past and present of Dunhuang. The story begins with General Mo Ding, who escorts the marriage envoy, falling in love with Princess Green Pearl. He follows the princess on her journey to marry afar, and eventually elopes with her to Dunhuang. The chieftain of the Hu people discovers them and takes the princess back for marriage. Mo Ding, inspired by the Buddha at a cliff, carves the Mogao Caves on the cliff with a group of artisans. In the caves, he creates exquisite Flying Apsaras murals based on Princess Green Pearl's image. Finally, the moon rises, and Mo Ding seems to see the princess and himself reuniting on the moon, never to part.
A poignant love story sets the stage for the Dunhuang Grand Ceremony. With the Mingsha Mountain as the real-life backdrop, the performance uses a blend of virtual and real sound, light, and electricity technologies, creating dreamlike scenes above the desert.
In the historical galaxy of the Silk Road and the Hexi Corridor, Dunhuang is undoubtedly the brightest star.
When the Tathagata Buddha appeared in the sky above the desert like a brilliant light, the scene suddenly fell silent. A strange emotion flowed through people's hearts, perhaps the power of religion.
In reality, Mo Ding did not reunite with the princess.
But he found his归宿 in the murals of the Mogao Caves.
Dunhuang Flying Apsaras, dreamlike and illusory.
Mo Ding's life closed a window but opened a door, beyond which was a bright world.
Art is boundless, a vast galaxy. Mo Ding and his Green Pearl became eternal in the galaxy of history.
Sky lanterns controlled by drones wrote emotions in the desert sky.
We left the Dunhuang Grand Ceremony with deep emotions, returning to the Hexi Corridor Hotel under the starry sky. Qi Xiaobao's questions followed Qi's dad throughout the performance, and together with the twinkling stars of Dunhuang's brilliant night, his countless "whys" shone.
On the third day in Dunhuang, we drove 70 kilometers southwest to Yangguan. The road was all desert, and the closer we got to Yangguan, the more desolate it became.
Arriving at the foot of Yangguan City, Qi Xiaobao was attracted by the ancient city defense tools displayed under the city wall. These cold weapons from ancient times were brutally straightforward, unlike modern weapons, where you might not even know how you died.
At the Yangguan Museum, Qi's mom stood under a mottled earthen city wall, with the ancient site of Yangguan just a few hundred meters away.
A line from a poem, "I urge you to drink one more cup of wine; west of Yangguan, you will see no old friends," fully captures how remote and desolate Yangguan was compared to the Central Plains. Standing at the Yangguan site, looking west, the desolation of the great desert was fully visible. At that moment, standing there, Qi's dad already felt deep sadness, let alone the ancients with their underdeveloped transportation and information! No wonder Wang Wei uttered such a timeless lament.
At the entrance of an observation point beneath the ruins on the hill, a sudden patch of green plants appeared—grapevines, sunflowers, and dense weeds. We were wondering how green plants could suddenly appear in such a desolate place. Closer inspection revealed a water pipe continuously irrigating the plants. Upon exiting, we observed the trees in the museum courtyard; each had a pipe continuously supplying water. Qi's dad couldn't help but feel how difficult it is to grow plants in the desert. Due to extreme drought, water seeps away, and the heat causes instant evaporation, making continuous irrigation a necessary measure.
Compared to us living in the humid east, our everyday green shade is an unattainable luxury in the desert.
Qi Xiaobao, seeing such boundlessness and desolation for the first time, stood there in a daze. The constantly shifting "bizarre" world over the past few days was a bit overwhelming for the five-year-old.
The vast and expansive desert of the northwest makes everyone entering it feel insignificant. Standing at Yangguan means standing at the edge of ancient China's territory. The distance in front of Qi Xiaobao is the homeland of the ancient Loulan Kingdom.
No matter how stunning the scene, for Qi's mom, it's just a backdrop for photos.
With the embellishment of human warmth, even the most desolate place seems less so. That is the power of humanity! At that moment, Qi's mom and Qi Xiaobao's actions added a touch of warmth to this land.
This is the starting point to the Western Regions. The direction of the great desert is today's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
Today's Chinese should thank Emperor Wu of Han for his feat of opening the Hexi Corridor. Without his wisdom and bravery, without Wei Qing and Huo Qubing, those eternal famous generals, our China would not have its vast territory today. Emperor Wu of Han not only laid the foundation of China's territory but, most importantly, for the first time, he united people's hearts across this land, making the term "Han Chinese" a source of pride for descendants of Huaxia for a long time. Many of us are descendants of the Han Dynasty. Looking globally, only we are named after a dynasty. The saying, "Those who offend the strong Han will be punished, no matter how far away they are!" still conveys a surging dominance today! Today, this has a new version: "Those who offend China will be punished, no matter how far away they are!" This is the legacy of the strong Han.
Qi's mom took a photo in front of the Han Dynasty flag, wishing for peaceful times and a strong nation!
Standing at the Yangguan site, gazing at the endless desert, Qi's dad couldn't help but reflect. This was once a border pass of clashing swords and galloping horses, a homeland haunting the dreams of countless ancients. It once saw beacons flaring and battle cries, and also heard the melodious tunes of Hu flutes and lingering nostalgia. Now, history is sealed, smoke clears, and we stand here merely as admirers. To be born in such a peaceful and prosperous era - how fortunate we are!
At the pottery workshop at the exit of the Yangguan Museum, Qi Xiaobao experienced the pottery-making process, chatting away with an aunt wearing Hanfu.
The energy spent at Yangguan was all regained on the car ride. By the time we arrived at Mingsha Mountain in the evening, Qi Xiaobao was a little hero again. Choosing to visit Mingsha Mountain in the evening was because the summer desert is too hot; daytime is not a good time for fun, especially with a five-year-old.
At the foot of Mingsha Mountain, a shocking sight unfolded before Qi's dad: thousands of camels, with a line stretching from the entrance of the scenic area all the way to the top of Mingsha Mountain. One team went up, another came down, head to tail, indistinguishable. On the humps sat enthusiastic tourists, showing the power of the summer vacation army. But the camels must have suffered.
The camel caravan and Mingsha Mountain became the most representative scene here.
Qi Xiaobao posed for the obligatory "been here" photo.
Mingsha Mountain hasn't changed, but too many visitors have robbed it of its former composure. The scorching sun made Mingsha Mountain unbearably hot, even near dusk! Qi's dad has a weakness: he feels suffocated when there are too many people, so we decided to take a quick look and not add to Mingsha Mountain's burden.
The Crescent Moon Spring, surrounded by crowds, lost its former vitality, becoming a mere ornamental pond under siege.
Leaving Dunhuang, our next target is Zhangye.
Traveling along the Liuge Expressway, we passed by Guazhou, where the famous "Son of the Earth" sculpture is located. Qi's dad decided to go there.
Guazhou has set up a sculpture display belt on the Gobi Desert, the most famous of which is "Son of the Earth."
Leaving the expressway onto a national road, we soon arrived at the sculpture belt. The first work is a bust of Emperor Wu of Han. In front of the sculpture of Emperor Wu of Han, who opened the Hexi Corridor with great achievements, are the well-known place names of the Hexi Corridor, including Dunhuang, Jiuquan, Wuwei, and Zhangye.
This trip to Guazhou was specifically for this "baby"—the "Son of the Earth" sculpture. The main body is a huge baby lying prone on the vast Gobi Desert, sleeping peacefully. It is 15 meters long, 4.3 meters high, and 9 meters wide. A work by Professor Dong Shubing of the Central Academy of Fine Arts.
The "baby" sleeps soundly, with a calm expression that makes it hard to disturb.
Professor Dong is undoubtedly successful. The image of the "baby" strikes the softest part of the human heart, easily triggering empathy in this desolate and lonely place.
Let's not disturb the sleeping "Son of the Earth" and continue our journey.
Around 6 p.m., Qi's dad and his party arrived at the Zhangye Danxia National Geological Park. Qi's dad chose to enter from the west gate, where there were fewer tourists and a better view for the sunset.
At Observation Deck No. 1, the setting sun cast golden rays onto the Danxia, creating a colorful, psychedelic luster. The clear sky, sunset, and Danxia blended into a dreamlike, multicolored picture. The memory of the gloomy overcast sky from the last visit was completely erased.
Every angle of the Danxia has its own characteristics.
Qi's mom's mood was as beautiful as the Danxia!
Sunlight is the best painter. Today's Danxia was magnificent!
The model is on the scene.
Qi Xiaobao took on the important task of lifting his mom's skirt hem, and he did a great job!
Qi's dad also made an appearance for this magical Yadan.
Qi Xiaobao tried to steal the spotlight by lifting his own hair. It seems that Qi Xiaobao, who had no altitude sickness, was in top form both mentally and physically!
The magical Danxia is unique from every position.
The Danxia Geopark is definitely a great place for photos.
The scenery here is no less than the Grand Canyon in the United States. No wonder Zhang Yimou chose this place to shoot "A Simple Noodle Story" (ironically, the film title in Chinese is "Three Guns").
Taking advantage of Qi's mom's photo session, the mischievous Qi Xiaobao jumped into her arms. Amidst the beautiful scenery, the little guy was inexplicably excited.
Qi's mom danced as the sun set, the afterglow of the sunset gradually fading from the Danxia.
The setting sun is infinitely beautiful, but it is near dusk. Qi's mom seized the time to continue filling up Qi's dad's phone memory. This was a great place for beautiful photos.
The soft sunset shone on the enchanting Danxia, making it look like a soft bread. Having such a peculiar thought, it seems Qi's dad was hungry!
Leaving the Danxia and arriving in Zhangye, it was already late at night. The always alert Qi Xiaobao fell asleep less than a kilometer away from the hotel, sleeping deeply. It seemed the Danxia had exhausted the little guy's energy. After checking in, Qi's dad had to carry him to the room. Qi's dad was well-practiced at this; he truly grew up while being carried. But with Qi Xiaobao asleep, Qi's dad's anticipated dinner was ruined, leaving him with instant noodles.
Eating instant noodles, let's talk about Zhangye, haha!
Since ancient times, Zhangye has been an important commercial hub and key passage on the Silk Road. It was historically called Ganzhou, which is the source of the character "Gan" in "Gansu" (the province). It is located in the northwest of China, the northwest of Gansu Province, and the middle of the Hexi Corridor. The name "Zhangye" is related to the national strategy of Emperor Wu of Han. It means "Extend the arm of the nation to reach the Western Regions," a name both vivid and powerful.
Arriving in Zhangye the previous day and successfully visiting the Danxia allowed us ample time for today's trip to Qilian.
Departing from Zhangye, we took the Zhangwen Expressway, then Provincial Highway 302, passing through the Qilian Mountains Grand Canyon, covering over 200 kilometers to reach Qilian.
As we approached Qilian, the desolation that had accompanied us for days changed dramatically. As far as the eye could see, it was lush green. Previously, whether in Haixi or western Gansu, the Qilian Mountains Qi's dad had seen were dry and barren. This scenery completely refreshed his perception of the Qilian Mountains. This is what the Qilian Mountains should look like; otherwise, how could they have been the natural military horse pastures in history! In the age of cold weapons, the possession of Qilian affected the fate of nations because it produced excellent horses.
In the Qilian Grand Canyon, streams flowed gently. The little one could finally play in the water.
This canyon is a key link between Gansu and Qinghai, with green mountains towering on both sides and streams flowing through the middle.
Qi Xiaobao made another friend, a little girl. He handed her all the stones he had picked up. Even at such a young age, he knew how to be gentle. Qi's mom watched this scene with mixed feelings.
Leaving the canyon, the Qilian Grassland unfolded before our eyes.
The Qilian Grassland is a vast gentle valley between the two ranges of the Qilian Mountains. Protected by the Qilian Mountains, the climate is pleasant, with abundant moisture and lush grass, making it an excellent pasture. Qi's dad couldn't help but admire: This is what the Qilian Mountains should be like!
At an alluvial valley, running water had carved out a variegated landscape, giving the river valley a charming texture.
The sky was a clear blue, the clouds dazzlingly white. The green grassland and red alluvial valley together wove a magnificent picture.
We drove and took photos along the way, and before we knew it, we had reached today's destination—Zhuo'er Mountain.
Little Switzerland of the Northwest—Zhuo'er Mountain
Zhuo'er Mountain is known as the Little Switzerland of the Northwest. At the foot of the mountain, the vegetation is lush, with tall and graceful spruce trees reaching into the clouds. Distant snowy peaks are faintly visible. The Danxia composition of the mountains transitions from a green base to a red summit, creating a fantastic combination full of imagination, making the scenery incredibly beautiful.
For Qi's dad and mom, who are used to traditional Chinese landscapes, this scenery has an exotic flair. No wonder people call it the Little Switzerland of the Northwest.
Zhuo'er Mountain belongs to Danxia landform. Its name means "outstanding and extraordinary." It is composed of red sandstone and conglomerate. In Tibetan, it is called "Zongmu Mayu Ma," meaning "the beautiful rosy queen."
Zhuo'er Mountain Scenic Area is located in Babao Town, Qilian County, close to the Babao River, facing the sacred mountain Amidongsuo (Amiye Dongzong) across the river. Standing at the top of Zhuo'er Mountain, the view is extremely open, with no obstructions anywhere. Directly opposite is Niuxin Mountain (Ox Heart Mountain), where you can see the scenery of all four seasons in one glance. To the left and right are Laxia Gorge and Baiyang Gully Scenic Areas. To the north are the rolling Qilian Mountains. At the foot of the mountain, the surging Babao River winds around the county like a white hada. Every scene is beautiful, like a fairyland.
The contrast between the red rock body and the green vegetation creates the unique scenery of Zhuo'er Mountain.
This is a paradise for photographers. Qi's mom certainly didn't miss it.
Every angle is stunningly beautiful.
After the rain, Zhuo'er Mountain becomes even redder where it's red, and greener where it's green.
360 degrees without any dead angles; any casual shot is a beautiful picture.
Rain on one side, sunshine on the other; this valley has rain while that one shines.
At the foot of the mountain, vast fields of rapeseed flowers added a burst of yellow, making the scenery more lively.
The beacon tower at the top of the mountain was built by the last emperor of the Western Xia. Even the continuous Qilian Mountains could not stop the pursuit of the Mongol army, and the Western Xia dynasty fell among these mountains.
Qi Xiaobao also reached the summit. At an altitude of 3,500 meters, climbing nearly a kilometer from the wooden plank path was quite a challenge for a child. Qi Xiaobao was immersed in the joy of successfully reaching the top.
Qi Xiaobao was very happy.
Qi's mom's outfit today suited the beautiful scenery of Zhuo'er Mountain perfectly.
As we descended, a rainbow appeared after the rain, spanning the two ends of the valley like a colorful archway.
Qi's mom happily walked toward the rainbow. On the western section of the loop around Qinghai Lake, Qinghai Lake bid us farewell with a rainbow after rain. Now, the Qilian Mountains also generously welcomed us with a rainbow. Qi's dad and mom felt deeply honored! Is this the legendary "rainbow luck"?
Today's rainbow was so clear that Qi's mom couldn't help but reach out to touch it.
The journey to Zhuo'er Mountain ended perfectly under a rainbow sky.
Today, we continue heading toward Xining to complete the loop of the Qinghai Lake Grand Loop. The route from Zhuo'er Mountain to Xining requires us to go back through the Qilian Grassland to Ebao, then take National Highway 227 south to Xining. Along the way, the grassland scenery was breathtaking!
It felt like we could touch the sky with our hands.
Qilian gave us the most beautiful grassland scenery.
Unknown wildflowers bloomed all over the grassland by the roadside.
These clusters dotted the grassland, creating vivid layers and magnificent beauty!
Walking through the sea of flowers on the Qilian grassland, one gets intoxicated even without wine. Qi's mom was already drunk.
National Highway 227 passes by the Gangshika Snow Peak. The snow peak is clearly visible from the highway, attracting many passing tourists to stop and gaze into the distance. Qi's dad decided to drive toward the snow mountain to get closer photos.
The saying "You'll ride your horse dead before reaching the mountain" makes sense. Qi's dad drove a long distance toward the snow mountain, but it still seemed far away.
To see rare scenery, one must have the sincerity to overcome all difficulties. Qi's dad continued forward.
Finally, at the foot of the snow mountain, the mountain was in full view, but dark clouds covered the summit, as if rain or snow was imminent.
We continued upward along the snow mountain road.
Looking back at the path we came from, the Qilian Grassland unfolded before our eyes.
Finally nearing the foot of the snow peak, we checked the altitude: over 3,600 meters. Worried about Qi Xiaobao, who was sleeping in the back seat, Qi's dad decided to stop here. Qi's mom took a photo as a memento; it was a rare close-up view of the snow mountain.
On the way down, Qi's dad glanced in the rearview mirror and noticed that the dark clouds over the snow mountain had dispersed. The snow mountain against the blue sky looked exceptionally holy.
Qi's dad quickly stopped the car and captured this rare close-up of the snow peak.
Gangshika Snow Peak is located within Menyuan Hui Autonomous County, Qinghai Province, with an altitude of 5,254.5 meters. It is the highest peak in the eastern section of the Qilian Mountains. The summit is covered with snow all year round, shimmering with silver light like a jade dragon. It is also the highest mountain in Menyuan.
Menyuan's Hundred-Li Rape Flower Sea
Menyuan's vast rapeseed flower sea stretches along National Highway 227. The sea of blossoms turns the Qilian grassland valley into an ocean of yellow.
Qi's mom came prepared. At some point, she had changed into a red gauze skirt. It seemed this was premeditated!
Qi Xiaobao also brought his own props. This mother and son love to show off! A bee flew by right in front of them, and they didn't even notice.
The rapeseed flowers were in full bloom, and Qi's mom was already lost among them.
Menyuan's hundred-li rapeseed flower sea: Menyuan County is the birthplace of small rapeseed in northern China. It is the largest small rapeseed planting area in the country and even the world, covering a total area of 500,000 mu (about 33,333 hectares).
Continuing forward, we crossed the Daban Mountain Tunnel at an altitude of 3,800 meters. After descending the mountain, we would reach Xining. At the Daban Mountain viewing platform, despite the rapidly dropping temperature at high altitude, Qi's mom couldn't resist taking a photo with the magnificent landscape of Menyuan. Against this grand landscape, we drew a perfect conclusion to this Qinghai Lake Grand Loop.
Thus, Qi's dad and mom, along with Qi Xiaobao, who celebrated his fifth birthday on the road at the start of the trip, completed the Qinghai Lake Grand Loop. We circled Qinghai Lake and the Qilian Mountains clockwise, turning around mountains, waters, and pagodas, and returned to Xining, covering a total distance of 3,500 kilometers.
These 3,500 kilometers refreshed our understanding of the northwest and also helped us rediscover ourselves. Lakes, snow mountains, deserts, Danxia, grasslands, flower seas... The northwest land gave us its most generous gifts! Some say one Qinghai Lake Grand Loop is better than ten trips. Having personally measured these 3,500 kilometers by car, Qi's dad deeply agrees. The magnificence of the landscape far exceeds imagination.
Throughout the journey, Qi's dad suddenly realized that although it was called the Qinghai Lake Grand Loop, we had actually been circling the Qilian Mountains all along. Over these 3,500 kilometers, we have seen all the beautiful scenery, experienced all four seasons, and traversed all the desolation, yet we never stepped beyond one Qilian Mountain.
The most beautiful scenery is on the road. We will continue our journey, heading east from Xining to complete the return leg of the Northwest Grand Loop.
