Summer 2021: Dunhuang and Tar Temple Journey
Originally planned to take my parents to Gansu in 2018, but various situations prevented it. My close friends planned a trip to Qinghai Lake and Gansu this August, and I decided to join the second half of the itinerary, flying directly from Beijing to Dunhuang to fulfill my Dunhuang dream, returning via Xining and Lanzhou.
In August, the pandemic broke out nationwide again, adding some anxiety and excitement to the trip.
Day 1: I felt nervous on the way to the Capital Airport. I had taken a nucleic acid test the day before but still wasn't sure if I could smoothly leave Beijing, and whether there would be obstacles returning a week later. Check-in went smoothly; they only checked my health code. The security check was really thorough—the man ahead of me was scanned up and down, left and right several times. Maybe even through the mask, my face looked fierce. I carried a small bottle of alcohol with me, and it passed without issue. I upgraded to business class for 300 yuan at the airport, so I could sit more comfortably on the three-hour flight.
The plane landed on time at Dunhuang Airport. The airport was small but clean and tidy. Looking down from the plane, all I saw was Gobi desert and yellow sand, with only sparse greenery. As soon as I left the airport, I felt intense sun and dryness. I didn't find the 5-yuan bus to the city, so I took a taxi to the hotel. The driver said Dunhuang has had zero COVID cases; any virus would be killed by the sun [Laugh]. The sun's disinfection is relentless.
That evening, I suddenly realized that the Mogao Caves tickets I had booked were for the wrong date. The group brainstormed solutions, and eventually I purchased a package on Ctrip and paid.
Day 2: The next day, I anxiously waited for a phone confirmation. Finally, by noon, I got it sorted and entered the Mogao Caves at noon! Before that, I had bought emergency tickets as a backup. My travel companions were very supportive, persistently contacting and eventually securing normal tickets, fulfilling my wish. Thank you, friends! We entered the Mogao Caves at noon. In the morning, the group first visited the Dunhuang Museum near the hotel to appreciate Dunhuang's history, murals, and a 1:1 replica of Cave 45—absolutely magnificent. The Dunhuang Museum is free, and renting an audio guide was quite nice. The souvenirs were average, and the management a bit messy. From noon to evening, we had three destinations. The normal Mogao Caves ticket allows entry to eight caves and two introductory short films. The second dome screen film was stunning and immersive, showcasing Dunhuang's beauty; the first film was just average with no highlights. The Mogao Caves were my dream destination, and I was only in awe of the wisdom and perseverance of ancient people and those with faith. All the prior research and books I had read became irrelevant here; I still need to read more to grasp even a bit.
Around 6 PM, we went to Crescent Moon Spring. We could take an electric cart directly to the spring, then climb the sand dune for about 15 minutes to get a high view. The water in Crescent Moon Spring wasn't clear anymore; maybe it was cloudy, but it didn't look like in the promotional photos.
At 9:30 PM, we watched "Dunhuang Grand Ceremony." The story was a bit far-fetched, but the stage lighting and sound design were good. The ticket was a bit pricey but still worth watching.
Day 3: Destination Zhangye, passing through Guazhou, Chijin, Jiayuguan, and Zhangye National Geopark. Chijin is the hometown of the Iron Man Wang Jinxi; you can see many streets and roads named after Iron Man. Jiayuguan tickets were unreliable—110 yuan per person. We didn't enter, just looked around at the gate. Zhangye Geopark was great, well-managed, and the service at each stop was good, convenient and friendly. The Danxia landforms were obvious and beautiful. We got off at the second and fourth stops to look around carefully. We wanted to wait for sunset glow, but we were too tired and came down after 7 PM. Zhangye city center was lively, still bustling at 10 PM. There was also a Bell and Drum Tower, similar in layout to Xi'an's, well-preserved.
Day 4: Destination Xining, Zhangye—Biandukou—Qilian Prairie—Ebo Ancient Silk Road—Gangshika Snow Peak (viewed from afar)—Menyuan Rapeseed Flowers. Entering Qinghai from Gansu, the scenery outside the window instantly changed to green mountains and clear waters, less dry and much cooler. The Qilian Mountain Prairie offered wide views, and we could ride horses and fly drones. The Menyuan rapeseed flowers were near the end, but the layered fields were still colorful.
Day 5: The last day of the trip was Qinghai's Tar Temple—Lanzhou Airport—return to Beijing. Various news suggested we might not be able to enter the temple due to the pandemic, but the group had noble help and finally fulfilled our wish to pay homage at Tar Temple. My father had visited it when he was young, and I had originally planned to revisit with him in 2018. I paid my respects here, missing my beloved dad.
In just five days, I paid my respects to the Mogao Caves and Tar Temple with reverence. The Mogao Caves were built over millennia by dozens of generations; the stubborn persistence of the Dunhuang people allowed them to preserve this beauty for future generations as best they could. At Tar Temple, there are the world's only remaining eighteen three-dimensional embroidered thangkas, exquisite butter sculptures that can only last 1–2 years, and grand murals. Coinciding with the first day of the lunar month, many devout pilgrims prostrated themselves in full prostration—the power of faith was immensely震撼.
Note: Photos can be seen in 'Notes and Pictures.'
