Exploring the Gobi Wilderness: The Stunning Qing-Gan Grand Loop

For the Qing-Gan Grand Loop, many people go to Qinghai Province first, then Gansu Province. However, I suggest going to Gansu first, then Qinghai. The reasons are: First, flights to Lanzhou are cheaper than to Xining, so many choose to fly to Lanzhou and then go to Xining. Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport is located in Lanzhou New District, quite far from downtown Lanzhou. Second, Qinghai is on a plateau with higher altitude; going to Gansu first and then entering Qinghai allows you to gradually acclimate to the plateau climate.

Itinerary: Starting September 20, a full 7-day trip.

Day 1: Shenzhen to Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport, stay overnight in Lanzhou New District.

Day 2: Lanzhou New District – Wuwei Leitai Han Tomb Park – Zhangye Colorful Danxia Park, stay in Zhangye.

Day 3: Zhangye – Jinta Poplar Forest – Jiayuguan Fort, stay in Jiayuguan.

Day 4: Jiayuguan – Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring, stay in Dunhuang.

Day 5: Dunhuang Mogao Caves – Oil Town – Dachaidan, stay in Dachaidan.

Day 6: Dachaidan Emerald Lake – Caka Salt Lake, stay in Heimahe Town.

Day 7: Qinghai Lake – Riyue Mountain – Kumbum Monastery – Xining.

Because the climate and customs of the Northwest are very different from the interior, those with ample time or extensive knowledge of the Northwest can plan their own trip, self-driving or renting a car. Joining a tour group can save a lot of trouble: sleep on the bus, get off to use the restroom, take photos at the sights. However, there will be many constraints, and you may not fully enjoy the experience. I decided to go quite hastily, so I happily joined a tour group.

Day 1: Arrived at Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport around 6:30 PM, took the tour bus to a hotel near the airport. The airport is over an hour's drive from the city. So, I didn't get to have the long-awaited Lanzhou beef noodles, nor did I see the Yellow River.

Day 2: Departed from Lanzhou New District, passed through Wushao Ridge, and entered the Hexi Corridor. The "He" in Hexi Corridor refers to the Yellow River. The first stop was Wuwei City, the capital of the Five Liang, and the Leitai Han Tomb Park, where the "Galloping Horse Treading on a Flying Swallow" was unearthed. This place is rich in cultural heritage and will be very interesting for those who know history.

The Leitai Temple building requires a ticket to enter.

The unearthed bronze horse sculpture group is preserved in the Gansu Provincial Museum.

Zhangye Colorful Danxia:

Zhangye Colorful Danxia, as the name suggests, is a colorful Danxia landform, hailed as "God's overturned palette." The ticket price is 75 yuan, including a 20 yuan sightseeing bus; you enter with your ID card. It is recommended to enter after 4 PM, otherwise the UV rays are too strong and you may get sunburned. Plan your time to watch the sunset in the scenic area, which adds more atmosphere.

We entered from the North Gate (most tourists enter here). The sightseeing order is 2-1-5-4.

Viewpoint 2 is relatively ordinary, but because it's the first stop, it gathers a large crowd. The scenery here is unremarkable, no need to spend much time here.

Viewpoint 1 is the highest, with the widest view, suitable for panoramic views, and the most spectacular scenery. You can stay here a bit longer.

Viewpoint 5 is relatively ordinary; if time is tight, you can skip it and go directly to Viewpoint 4.

Viewpoint 4 has the most vivid and dazzling colors, a perfect viewing angle, and is also the best spot to watch the sunset. Pay attention to the sunset time; it's best to arrive before the sun sets. When the sun is low, the oblique light hits the mountains, rendering the colors super beautiful. Viewpoint 4 also offers hot air balloons, paragliders, and helicopters. The light is best one hour before sunrise and sunset; it's recommended to enter the scenic area at this time. If conditions allow, you can stay nearby and watch the sunrise at Viewpoint 4 the next morning.

Day 3: From Zhangye, we visited Jinta Poplar Forest and Jiayuguan Fort.

There are many poplar forest scenic spots across the country, but the most beautiful, spectacular, and concentrated poplar forest is in Ejina Banner, Inner Mongolia. Jinta Poplar Forest has a completely different style from Ejina's poplar forest. If Ejina's poplar forest is described as grand and vast, then Jinta Poplar Forest is beautiful and serene. Pools of varying sizes are interspersed among the dense woods, graceful golden poplars stand in the water, and each pool reflects clear, delicate tree shadows with gentle light, making visitors feel as if they are in a painting.

Perhaps because of the shelter from other surrounding trees, Jinta poplars are better at resisting strong winds, shedding leaves gradually, unlike Ejina poplars where a single strong wind and temperature drop can blow off more than half the leaves. Therefore, Jinta Poplar Forest usually turns yellow earlier and fades later than Ejina's, with a longer optimal viewing period.

Jinta Desert Poplar Forest Scenic Area is located on the north side of the middle section of the ancient Silk Road in the Hexi Corridor, 8 km northwest of Jinta County, Jiuquan City, Gansu Province. It is the largest man-made forest in the Hexi Corridor. Poplar trees are extremely resilient, tolerant of cold, heat, alkali, waterlogging, and drought. They are known as "desert warriors" and are praised as "living a thousand years without dying, standing a thousand years after death, and not decaying a thousand years after falling." Throughout history, their tenacious and upward spirit has been revered and worshipped.

Ticket price: 65 yuan/person, sightseeing bus 20 yuan/person. The park is very large, but there are few signposts, so it is recommended to take the sightseeing bus.

I visited Jinta Poplar Forest on September 21; at that time, only a few trees had turned yellow, most were still green. Therefore, if you are aiming for the golden poplar forest, you must choose the right time. For autumn leaf viewing, the golden poplar forest is the most urgent! Because its most beautiful period is only about twenty days. Poplar leaf color change is closely related to tree age and temperature. Usually, the best time to see poplars is from September 25 to October 15. If you go too early, everything is green and unremarkable; if too late, the leaves have all fallen.

First stop: Beautiful Pastoral Station. It is said to be a collection of artificial flowers, essentially a sea of flowers. If you have enough time, you can get off and enjoy. If time is tight, you can skip it.

Second stop: Beacon Tower. This is an artificial viewing tower for climbing high to see the scenery. If the timing is wrong, all you see is a messy green view, very average.

Third stop: Jinbo Lake Poplar Forest. After descending from the beacon tower, you can take a wooden boardwalk and walk along it to reach Jinbo Lake. This is the core area of the entire scenic area; the scenery here can satisfy every visitor's infinite imagination of golden autumn. But there were very few yellow trees along the way; it was completely gone.

Jiayuguan Fort is located 6 km southwest of Jiayuguan city center, in the narrowest part of the Jiayuguan valley, on the highest terrain of Jiayuguan Mountain. The city wall on both sides of the pass crosses the Gobi Desert, connecting to the Heishan Hanging Great Wall 8 km north and to the First Pier under Heaven 7 km south. It is the dominant western end of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall, historically known as the First Pass of the Hexi Corridor.

The fort was first built in the fifth year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (1372) and took 168 years (1372-1539) to become a complete pass. It is the most majestic and dangerous among the thousand passes under the nine garrisons along the Ming Great Wall and remains well preserved. In March 1961, it was listed by the State Council as one of the first batch of national key cultural relics protection units. Due to its strategic location and magnificent architecture, it is known as "The Majestic Pass Under Heaven" and "The Key to the Western Frontier."

Jiayuguan has profound cultural significance. If you visit on your own, you may not understand the purpose, structure, and historical events of this fort. It is recommended to hire a guide for explanation. Otherwise, a superficial tour cannot grasp the spirit of the fort.

Day 4: Departing from Jiayuguan, we arrived at Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring in the afternoon, the long-awaited desert and crescent moon spring.

Mingsha Mountain gets its name from the sand that makes sounds when moved. Crescent Moon Spring is a clear spring embraced by Mingsha Mountain, shaped like a crescent moon, hence the name. Because it is located in a depression between ancient alluvial fans, groundwater from loose sediments continuously flows into Crescent Moon Spring. Despite the changing seasons, wind, and sand, Crescent Moon Spring remains clear and mirror-like, reflecting Mingsha Mountain. Sand and water coexist, mountain and spring depend on each other, creating the world wonder of "The First Spring in the Desert." Currently, there is still water in Crescent Moon Spring, but whether it is natural or artificial is unknown.

There are two tour routes:

① Camel riding: 100 yuan/person. If you haven't ridden a camel before, it's worth a try. Camels are gentle and slow, so safety is not a concern. You cannot use an umbrella while riding; make sure to protect yourself from the sun. You can give the camel handler 20 yuan for taking photos of you, but don't expect too much from the photos. The handlers don't get a salary; they rely on tips from photos. If you ride a camel, you can also take desert motorcycles and desert buggies, depending on your preference.

② Take a sightseeing bus or walk directly to the desert and Crescent Moon Spring.

Ps: You can enter the scenic area after 5 PM and watch the sunset there. The desert sand is very fine; walking barefoot is comfortable. The scenic area allows entry until 7:30 PM on the day, and tickets are valid for three days, allowing multiple entries with your ID.

Sand sliding: 20 yuan per time. It is recommended to wear a mask, otherwise, you'll get sand in your mouth.

Dunhuang city has profound cultural heritage. Besides Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring, you can also visit the Dunhuang Natural Museum and watch the dance drama "Again See Dunhuang."

Day 5: Morning visit to Dunhuang Mogao Caves, then heading to Qinghai in the afternoon, passing by the Oil Town where the movie "The Ghouls" was filmed, and entering the Qaidam Basin.

I won't elaborate much on the Mogao Caves; they are a cultural and artistic treasure. Tickets must be purchased online in advance. Visiting 8 caves costs 238 yuan, with a dedicated guide for explanation. Those familiar with Tibetan Buddhism will have a deeper understanding of the Mogao Caves.

"The Ghouls" and "Western Wind Blazing" were filmed here, with the continuous Altun Mountains along the way. I have heard many bizarre legends about this Oil Town.

It is said that about 200,000 people suddenly disappeared overnight. Some say aliens took them, some say it was a war, and some say it was because of ghosts, so the town's residents all moved away.

But for tourists, this place is really great for posing—the sense of vicissitude and time makes every shot feel special.

Day 6: Depart from Dachaidan Town to visit Emerald Lake, a filming location for "A Little Red Flower," and Caka Salt Lake.

Emerald Lake consists of salt ponds of different shapes and depths, sparkling like pieces of "emerald." It was originally a mining area for the Dachaidan Chemical Plant's salt lake mining team. After years of mining, pits formed, which later became the beautiful "Emerald Lake."

The color of Emerald Lake is related to the concentration of minerals and weather conditions; the color changes at different times. We arrived around 9 AM, and the green effect was not obvious.

Caka Salt Lake is at an altitude of 3059 meters, with a lake area of about 105 square kilometers and a scenic area of 30 square kilometers.

Caka Salt Lake is surrounded by the Qilian Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, and Xiangpi Mountain. It reflects the beautiful sky and snow mountains like a mirror, forming a scene where water reflects the sky, the sky meets the ground, and people walk between the lake, as if in a painting. It is known as the "Sky Mirror of China" by travelers and was listed by National Geographic Traveler as one of the "55 places to go in a lifetime."

The scenic ticket does not include the small train; it must be purchased separately. The small train is very slow, taking half an hour from start to end. The beauty of Caka Salt Lake also depends heavily on the weather. There are many photographers in the scenic area; if you want beautiful "Sky Mirror" photos, you can book a photographer in advance. The results are very beautiful.

Qinghai Lake is the largest inland saltwater lake in China and the second largest saltwater lake in the world, with a surface area of 4,402 square kilometers. Due to its high altitude, the climate is very cool; even in the hot summer, the average temperature is only around 15°C, making it an ideal summer resort. The lake water is blue and clear, the sky clouds ever-changing, and with the background of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and Tibetan culture, it is a romantic scenic area for travelers. Many visitors sigh, "After seeing Qinghai Lake, no other lake is worth seeing."

Erlangdu Scenic Area at Qinghai Lake requires a ticket to enter. Along the lake there are many rapeseed flowers, highland barley, and flocks of sheep, horses, and yaks. Even without entering the scenic area, you can get close to the rapeseed flowers and small plateau animals.

Between Qinghai Lake and Kumbum Monastery, we passed the ancient Tea Horse Road into Daotanghe Town, stopped briefly at a Tibetan village on Riyue Mountain, and commemorated Princess Wencheng.

Snowy mountains were faintly visible in the distance.

Kumbum Monastery (Tar Temple) in Xining is the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school (Yellow Hat sect) of Tibetan Buddhism. It is one of the two major monasteries of the Yellow Hat sect, built in the Ming Dynasty and over 400 years in the making. It has become an ancient architectural complex with over 30 buildings, including halls, sutra halls, pagodas, and monk quarters. It is an active center for Tibetan Buddhism in the Northwest and enjoys a reputation nationwide and in Southeast Asia.

Kumbum Monastery is not only a sacred site for Gelug Tibetan Buddhism but also a treasure house of Buddhist culture and art. Its monastery architecture, carvings, statues, pagodas, scriptures, offerings, ritual instruments, mandalas, and altars decorate this famous Buddhist temple with splendor and profound meaning. Among them, the long-standing "Three Unique Treasures of Kumbum" are renowned both at home and abroad as oriental art wonders.

Entering the scenic area requires a guide; otherwise, a superficial tour is boring. The architecture is traditional ancient, very exquisite. Inside the prayer halls, photography, wearing hats, and sunglasses are prohibited. You should step over the threshold, not step on it. It is necessary to understand the taboos and beliefs of the temple.

Accommodation and food along the Qing-Gan Grand Loop are relatively cheaper than in the interior. The five cities of Hexi have many hotels, from low-end to high-end. The cities are small, so taxis are cheap, so you don't need to worry too much about the hotel location. Qinghai's hotels are not as good as Gansu's due to ecological protection and other reasons; some don't have air conditioning. For food, beef and mutton dominate, and barbecue is quite special. Fruits there are cheap and sweet. Because we were on a tour group, we didn't get to taste many local specialties; the local flavors are relatively strong with lots of sauces. Their milk tea is great.

Actually, the scenery along the way is really beautiful, but limited by time and space, I can only briefly introduce it here. No matter how beautiful the scenery is, you need to experience it yourself, not just watch beautiful photos online. The real scenery may not be as dazzling as the photos, but the information is far richer than the images. Seeing with your own eyes and experiencing it personally is more shocking. Don't stop moving; keep moving forward. Through this trip, I gained a certain understanding of the customs of the Hexi Corridor, Qaidam Basin, and the Tibetan people and Tibetan Buddhism, frontier culture, etc. They are no longer just imagination in my mind. We are always on the road.