My First Travelogue: Dedicated to the Great Qing-Gan Journey Westward (Slowly Written, Slowly Updated...)

Starting at age 25, and also due to work, I've gradually visited many countries, cities, towns, and villages. Alone, with two people, with groups. Yet I've never settled down to finish a travelogue. Later, I got lazy and even skipped planning before trips, traveling spontaneously and adapting as I go. Writing this now, I laugh at myself—a bit awkward.

This morning I joked with my best friend: if I didn't have a 9-to-5 job, I might have been a backpacker. So, for this small, perhaps unrealistic dream, I'm writing my first travelogue. After all, I need to build some popularity and raise travel funds as a backpacker, haha~

Many years ago, I saw a friend on social media sharing photos of self-driving in Qinghai and was incredibly envious! So I always had the intention and plan but never took action. Although I often travel alone—driving solo through the US West Coast, New Zealand's North and South Islands, etc.—my domestic driving experience was limited to short trips. But the Great Qing-Gan route spans over 3,000 km, and I was honestly a bit worried about local driving habits. I don't know when I mentioned wanting to drive the Great Qing-Gan route with my best friend, and we just hit it off.

(Photo taken at Zhangye Colorful Danxia, with my best friend of 20+ years)

Colleagues said the Great Qing-Gan area is most beautiful in July and August, but the intense sun and high temperatures are notorious. It's not about fearing tanning; I really don't want to stay in the desert or outdoors at 40°C—it's dry and unbearable. Isn't the crisp autumn of October better? "Golden Autumn" in October: though a bit cold, the vast golden poplar forests are stunning.

(Photo taken at Jinta County Poplar Forest Park)

Referencing others' travelogues and guides, I made a rough itinerary. Well, it's barely an itinerary—just decided the route and hotels. Considering hotels during National Day are tight and expensive, I booked in advance. Otherwise, I would have booked stop by stop. Actually, I prefer the latter, lingering longer in places I like.

(Above: a reference picture I stumbled upon)

October 4–October 12

Originally planned 11 days, but due to National Day flight prices, shortened to 9 days.

Outbound: 9:20–12:30, 9C6833, Shanghai Hongqiao T1 – Xining Caojiabao T2

Return: 11:30–14:30, HO1280, Xining Caojiabao T2 – Shanghai Pudong T2

Oct. 4: Shanghai – Xining

Oct. 5: Xining – Zhangye

Oct. 6: Zhangye – Dunhuang

Oct. 7: Dunhuang

Oct. 8: Dunhuang – Dachaidan

Oct. 9: Dachaidan – Delingha

Oct. 10: Delingha – Qinghai Lake

Oct. 11: Qinghai Lake – Xining

Oct. 12: Xining – Shanghai

In early September, I only booked the above daily accommodations and rented a car on Ctrip.

But I had no idea where I'd go—everything would be decided on the spot...

(Photo taken at Shanghai Hongqiao T1; almost no one during National Day)

October 4, Day 1

Arranged to meet my best friend at the airport around 7:30 AM. Given strict pandemic checks, we left a bit earlier. Morning flights are less prone to delays unless extreme weather. So we took off at 9:20 on time and landed on time. Great. After collecting luggage, it was around 1 PM. We had lunch at the airport. I must say, Northwestern noodles are delicious, even at airport restaurants.

(Photo taken at Xining Caojiabao T2 airport restaurant; overcast and cool upon landing)

Picking up the car was convenient in the airport parking lot. The process was simple—show driver's license, leave a copy, the rental company gave us the vehicle registration and keys, explained some points, and we took the car full of gas and returned it full. The only downside: we originally booked a Volkswagen Lavida, but got a Toyota Levin—quite small. The staff explained our booked car had an accident the day before; the Toyota was new and very fuel-efficient, with great value. Reluctantly, we accepted. Luckily, there were only two of us with little luggage.

Given time constraints, we only stayed half a day in Xining. We first went to a place both of us were interested in: the Qinghai Tibetan Culture Museum!

For detailed info about the Tibetan Culture Museum, interested friends can ask Baidu—it's certainly more professional than my description.

It consists of two halls: one is the Tibetan Culture Museum I visited, and the other is the Tibetan Medicine Culture Museum (no time to see). If you look carefully, it takes at least half a day.

About the Qinghai Tibetan Culture Museum: from the 618-meter-long Tibetan Buddhist Thangka painted over 27 years, to the full scripture hall, to the cast Buddha statues—many exhibits are truly awe-inspiring. I don't know much about Tibetan Buddhism, so I only scratched the surface—a bit awkward.

(The 600+ meter Tibetan Buddhist Thangka photo couldn't be uploaded for some reason. Alas, I give up. If you really want to see it, check DP—many friends have shared pics.)

(Cast Buddha statue)

(Rubbing mold from that time)

(Metal craft)

(Tibetan costumes—many types. This set is my favorite, so a souvenir photo.)

First night's stay: Meihao Hotel (Xining Haihu New District)

It was dusk when we left the Tibetan Culture Museum. My best friend and I went straight to the hotel. Meihao Hotel (Xining Haihu New District) is in the city center, surrounded by shopping malls like Wanda Plaza, Tangdao 637, and various restaurants. Very friendly for first-timers in Xining. Special praise to the hotel staff: when we arrived, Xining had a sudden temperature drop, and I was starving, so my stomach hurt for a while. The staff promptly brought ginger tea to warm me up—felt really warm-hearted. That evening, they also prepared pear soup with rock sugar and other fruits, making us feel at home.

From local Xining colleagues, I learned about many local delicacies. For example, the well-known hand-grabbed lamb (can be eaten in both Qinghai and Gansu); also, pot-roasted lamb chops, and Qinghai hot pot. I was especially interested in Qinghai hot pot, having heard about it. So we found a small restaurant near the hotel.

(Qinghai hot pot)

Originally, this was a home-style hot pot eaten by ordinary people. The broth is pure beef, with meatballs, beef, pork belly, quail eggs, radish, cabbage, firm tofu, tofu skin, black fungus, mushrooms, etc.—generous ingredients and pure flavor! And very affordable: we ordered a set meal—one pot, one flatbread, two covered-bowl teas—only 118 yuan total.

(Local specialty pastry, "dog burning urine"—fragrant both hot and cold)

(Covered-bowl tea—locals seem to love it. Hot pot with covered-bowl tea—perfect combo!)