From Understanding History to Experiencing It Firsthand: Discovering the Unique Hexi Corridor
The Hexi Corridor stretches east from Wushaoling (in the central part of Tianzhu Tibetan Autonomous County, Wuwei City, Gansu Province) to Yumen Pass (in the Gobi Desert, about 90 kilometers northwest of Dunhuang City, Gansu Province). It is about 1,000 kilometers long from east to west, with major cities including the historical and cultural cities of Wuwei, Zhangye, Jiuquan, and Dunhuang, as well as Yumen City, the cradle of the petroleum industry.
Since ancient times, it has been an important transportation artery in Northwest China. The "Silk Road" of the Han and Tang dynasties passed through here, leading to Central and West Asia, making it a golden passage in the history of cultural exchange between China and the West.
It was not only an ancient battlefield but also a well-known granary of Gansu. After passing Wushaoling and then Gulang Gorge to Xiliang (Wuwei Commandery), the terrain becomes a vast plain (flat and expansive), which has been a land of abundance and a place of strategic military importance since ancient times.
Day 1: Lanzhou. Around noon, the plane landed at Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport. From the airport to the city center, you can take a 30-yuan bus or the intercity train connected to the airport. There are many trains, and buying tickets in advance can save more than an hour compared to the bus. Fortunately, we didn't have to worry about tickets because our driver was already waiting for us at the airport (our driver has over 10 years of travel experience and is a seasoned Dunhuang veteran, haha). Along the way, we excitedly looked out the window, chatting and asking the driver to answer our questions (though we knew it wasn't safe, we couldn't help but learn about the city).
The driver said: Lanzhou doesn't have many famous attractions; most people use it as a transit city for western travel. The Yellow River runs through Lanzhou, dividing the city into north and south. On the southern bank, the South Binhe Road is the famous "Yellow River Scenic Line," featuring the Yellow River Iron Bridge, the Yellow River Mother sculpture, and the Waterwheel Expo Park. Baita Mountain Park is right across from Zhongshan Bridge. Additionally, the Gansu Provincial Museum and Wuquan Mountain Park are also located south of the Yellow River. Visiting the Zhongshan Bridge to see the majestic Yellow River, standing at Baita Temple Park for a panoramic view of Lanzhou, or exploring the Lanzhou Museum to see cultural relics are the best ways to understand the city. Excited hearts, trembling hands. We arrived in the city, and the driver took us to our pre-booked hotel (Hampton by Hilton Lanzhou Pedestrian Street). The hotel is located at No. 39 Zhangye Road Pedestrian Street, Chengguan District. The area is lively, the environment is excellent, and check-in was very fast.
The driver also told us about our itinerary for the day and took us to lunch. So we dropped off our luggage, took a short rest, and could not wait to meet up with the driver again (10 minutes felt like a day). "I came to Lanzhou just to eat Lanzhou beef noodles!" That’s not an exaggeration! Lanzhou beef noodles are known for their unique flavor of "clear soup, tender meat, and thin noodles" and the "one clear, two white, three red, four green, five yellow"—clear soup, white radish, red chili oil, green cilantro and garlic sprouts, and yellow noodles. They have won praise from customers nationwide and worldwide. The China Cuisine Association has rated them as one of the three major Chinese fast foods, earning the reputation of "China's No. 1 Noodle."
There are also many types of noodles, such as chive-leaf, erxi, maoxi, sanlengzi... (We learned something new.)
After eating and drinking, we continued to the Gansu Provincial Museum. The museum is located at No. 3 Xijin West Road, Qilihe District, Lanzhou City, Gansu Province. It is one of the largest comprehensive museums in Gansu Province, built in 1956, with a building area of over 21,000 square meters and an exhibition area of over 13,000 square meters. The Gansu Provincial Museum houses over 350,000 items, including historical artifacts, modern relics, ethnic objects, and paleontological fossils and specimens. It has become a major venue for science popularization and education. It has been selected as a national patriotism education base and a national science education base. At the end of 2012, it was promoted to a national first-class museum. The symbol of Chinese tourism—the "Galloping Horse Treading on a Flying Swallow" unearthed in Wuwei—is kept in the Gansu Museum. Its exquisite craftsmanship and rich imagination are truly stunning no matter how you look at it.
It is said that there is an unwritten rule in the artifact world: the funnier the artifact, the more valuable it is, and the Galloping Horse is no exception. Look at the back: the alluring red buttocks and the bouncing little body.
Also, did you notice that this horse is pacing with both legs on the same side (haha)?
Next came our Yellow River Iron Bridge sheepskin raft drifting adventure (thrilling just to think about). The Lanzhou Yellow River Iron Bridge, also known as Zhongshan Bridge, is located in the middle section of Binhe Road, Lanzhou City, Gansu Province, at the foot of Baita Mountain. Construction officially began on May 9, 1908 (Qing Dynasty), and it was completed and opened to traffic on August 19, 1909. It was built through a cooperation model: designed by an American bridge company, contracted by a German firm, and constructed by Chinese craftsmen. In 1928, it was renamed "Zhongshan Bridge" in memory of Sun Yat-sen.
This is the sheepskin raft we rode. I was so nervous that I never let go of the raft the whole time (haha).
After the ride, we finally returned to shore and breathed a long sigh of relief. I couldn't help but admire the wisdom and hard life of the Yellow River people. Fortunately, the driver told us that nighttime is the busiest time for Zhongshan Bridge (we almost missed it).
Looking at Baita Mountain across the Yellow River, it was so beautiful (I wonder if it has any connection to Hongta Mountain).
Due to limited time, we didn't go up Baita Mountain—a bit regrettable (maybe it's good to have some regret so we have a reason to come back). For dinner, we had another bowl of beef noodles (really delicious). Full and satisfied, we went to sleep, well-prepared for our Zhangye trip!
Day 2: Zhangye. Because the journey today was a bit long, we got up very early. After packing our luggage, we went to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. The driver was already waiting for us there. While eating, the driver told us that today we would pass through Wuwei City, the first stop on the Hexi Corridor, where there is an early Chinese grotto (Tianti Grotto). Tianti Mountain Grotto is located 50 kilometers south of Wuwei City, in Dengshan Village, Zhonglu Township. It is one of the early grottoes in China, originally created during the Northern Liang period of the Sixteen Kingdoms and later expanded through successive dynasties. It is grand in scale and majestic in architecture, and some scholars call it the "ancestor of Chinese grottoes." The grotto preserves hundreds of square meters of murals, three layers of existing caves, 17 large and small niches, over 100 statues, and valuable artifacts such as Han and Tibetan scriptures from the Wei, Sui, and Tang dynasties, and early Tang portraits. The main structure, the Great Buddha Cave, has a seated statue of the Tathagata over 30 meters tall. Flanking the Great Buddha stand statues of Kasyapa, Ananda, Samantabhadra, Manjusri, Virupaksha, and a Heavenly King, all vivid and finely crafted. Due to the construction of the Huangyanghe Reservoir, most of the Buddha statues, murals, and scriptures were relocated to the Provincial Museum for preservation. The Great Buddha in the cave remains carved into the mountain, and the central pillar, niches, and some murals still exist, making it a precious historical relic. Some artifacts have been restored.
The timeless Great Buddha sits quietly on the cliff by the water, watching generations of beings come and go. I looked up, meeting the compassionate gaze of the Tathagata at close range. All the pain and bitterness in my heart vanished in an instant, turning into the clear brightness of a flower held by the Buddha and a smile from Kasyapa.
Around noon, we arrived in Zhangye. It is a bright pearl on the ancient Silk Road, known as "Golden Zhangye." Its long history, splendid culture, beautiful mountains and rivers, and simple folk customs create a unique western landscape. The movie "A Simple Noodle Story" made this less-visited city popular. This small northwestern city has both the vast scenery of the northwest and the gentle landscapes reminiscent of Jiangnan. Under the sunlight, the Danxia landform shines with magnificent colors. Runquan Lake Park, Zhangye National Wetland Park, and Ganquan Park embellish the city like jade. Mati Temple (Horse Hoof Temple) has ancient exquisite meat-carved apsaras and magical grotto art, and the most beautiful rapeseed flower sea in Zhangye—Biankou Pass—in June and July, don't miss it if you travel. Foodie spirit! Zhangye minced noodles: The noodles emphasize "thin, bright, and refined"—thin noodles, bright color, and refined taste. The soup is best made with chicken broth, but beef or pork rib soup also works. Add pepper and ginger powder to taste, then add water starch to achieve a certain color and consistency, and finally add tofu slices. The thickened soup looks crystal clear and is tempting in color and fragrance.
After eating, the driver took us to our pre-booked hotel (Zhangye Diamond Hotel).
Since we got up early, we discussed with the driver and rested for two hours. Maybe we were very tired; two hours passed quickly. The driver called us to wake up. After washing up, we felt refreshed and quickly went downstairs to meet the driver. We headed to the Giant Buddha Temple. Zhangye Giant Buddha Temple, originally named Kasyapa Tathagata Temple, is also called "Reclining Buddha Temple" because it houses a statue of Shakyamuni in parinirvana. It is a temple built by imperial decree and is a national AAAA-level tourist attraction. It is located at Giant Buddha Temple Lane, Minzhu West Street, Ganzhou District, Zhangye City, Gansu Province, covering an area of over 30,000 square meters. Construction began in the first year of the Chongzong Yong'an era of the Western Xia (1098). The Zhangye Giant Buddha Temple scenic area is an important group of historical sites on the Silk Road and a landmark of the historical and cultural city of Golden Zhangye. It preserves the largest Western Xia Buddhist hall in China—the Great Buddha Hall, the largest indoor wooden-frame reclining Buddha, and the most complete first-edition first-print "Yongle Northern Canon." It is a Buddhist art museum integrating architecture, sculpture, murals, carvings, scriptures, and artifacts. Appreciate the thousand-year-old temple and gain life insights from the Great Buddha.
Next was the "Colorful Danxia" for photography enthusiasts.
Since we planned to come back for sunrise the next morning, we stayed only a short while before heading to Binggou Danxia. I sincerely admired the wonders of nature.
So we chose to watch the sunset here (amateur photographer, forgive the quality).
When it was time to eat again, the driver took us back to the hotel, briefly told us about the next day's schedule, and since he had been driving all day with high concentration and we had to watch sunrise tomorrow, we let him rest early. We went to the food street recommended by the driver (Ganzhou Market).
After eating and drinking, we walked along the streets discussing our feelings from the day. But the weather was unpredictable; it started drizzling. Oh no, the sunrise tomorrow—would it be ruined? There was nothing we could do. We took a taxi back to the hotel. The driver was probably asleep by then, so we didn't disturb him. We could only pray that tomorrow would be sunny! Sure enough, heaven did not disappoint—it was cloudy. Maybe I said the wrong spell when praying, "Taishang Laojun, urgent as the command" (that should be a rain prayer spell).
So the driver told us to sleep in, and we would depart at 9 a.m. for the next city, Jiayuguan. (Be sure to eat a good breakfast.)
Day 3: Jiayuguan – Dunhuang. Jiayuguan is located 5 kilometers west of Jiayuguan City, Gansu Province. It is the first major pass at the western end of the Ming Great Wall and a crucial hub on the ancient Silk Road. Jiayuguan is the western starting point of the Ming Great Wall, now the most spectacular pass along the entire Great Wall, renowned for its strategic terrain and majestic appearance, known as the "First Grand Pass Under Heaven." It echoes the "First Pass Under Heaven"—Shanhaiguan—thousands of miles away, famous worldwide. In Jiayuguan, you can see Wei-Jin ancient tomb murals from a thousand years ago and the six-hundred-year-old Ming Great Wall, making you feel as if you travel through a thousand years of history in a single day. We didn't stop in Jiayuguan; we went directly to the Jiayuguan Scenic Area. The Jiayuguan Scenic Area includes three parts: Jiayuguan Fortress, the First Mound of the Great Wall, and the Overhanging Great Wall.
Jiayuguan Fortress is the most spectacular pass along the Great Wall. It is not just a single gate but consists of an inner city, an outer city, and a moat. The outer city's Xiongguan Water Fortress offers distant views of the fortress. Entering the inner city and climbing the gate tower, you can see the Qilian Mountains stretching in the distance. Walking through Guanghua Gate into the inner city, it is wider in the west and narrower in the east, roughly trapezoidal. Guanghua Tower, Rouyuan Tower, and Jiayuguan Tower are aligned on the east-west axis. Outside Jiayuguan is an endless Gobi Desert.
Standing on the city wall, gazing at the desert beyond; walking on the mottled horse path, touching the ancient bricks on the wall with my hands, listening with heart and soul to the warhorses neighing from thousands of years ago...
The First Mound of the Great Wall, also known as Taolai River Mound, is the southernmost beacon tower of the western Great Wall of Jiayuguan and also the westernmost beacon tower of the Ming Great Wall. It was supervised and built by Li Han, the Military Defense Circuit Intendant of Suzhou, in the 18th year of the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty (1539). It is 7.5 kilometers north of the fortress, standing on a cliff nearly 56 meters high above the Taolai River.
The Overhanging Great Wall is located within Jiayuguan City, Gansu Province, about 11 kilometers from downtown and about 7 kilometers from Jiayuguan Fortress. Built on a ridge at an angle of about 45 degrees, it looks like it is hanging upside down in the air, hence the name "Overhanging Great Wall." It is the northern extension of Jiayuguan Fortress and an important part of the ancient military defense system of Jiayuguan. Construction began in the 18th year of the Jiajing reign (1539), made of locally sourced gravel and rammed earth. Only 750 meters remained after repairs in 1987, consisting of pathways, crenellated walls, and beacon towers, with two additional towers added at the ends, for a total of three beacon towers. The Overhanging Great Wall is the last section of the Great Wall before it enters Jiayuguan, known as the end of the Great Wall.
Walking on the Great Wall, you can clearly feel the blood and tears of the ancients, all to protect the peace of one region.
After returning from the scenic area, we went to the city center and found a restaurant to eat local stir-fried laghman noodles. The portion was really generous and the price was reasonable. I ate more than half and couldn't finish; to avoid waste, I packed it to go (suggestion for visitors: if you have a small appetite, order a small bowl). After eating, we headed to the next location: Dunhuang. The driver was especially happy because he was almost home. He told us that every July and August, he is basically away from home, rarely returning. Only on the way to Dunhuang does he feel most excited; home is the warmest harbor for a person. (That made me a little homesick too, so I immediately video-called my parents.) We were staying two nights in Dunhuang, showing that Dunhuang was the highlight of this trip. After a 5-hour drive, we arrived at the famous tourist city "Dunhuang." Dunhuang rests on the Qilian Mountains to the south, borders the Lop Nur wilderness to the west, Beisai Mountain to the north, and Sanwei Mountain to the east. As far as the eye can see, there are deserts and Gobi with scattered camel grass. Here is the largest existing grotto complex in China, with vast amounts of exquisite murals and sculptures, and the world-famous apsaras (flying celestial beings). The apsaras are the signature of Mogao Caves and the symbol of Dunhuang; nearly a hundred caves in Mogao feature apsaras. The forgotten glory, buried for a thousand years, was finally discovered and given a new mission. "West of Yang Pass, no old friends," "The spring wind never reaches Yumen Pass"—these well-known verses add depth to Dunhuang's historical weight. Amidst the ruins, we can vaguely feel the stories carried by the seemingly dead Gobi, made more evocative by the wind from the northwest.
Since we were staying in Dunhuang for two days, and it was our last stop, we compared options on Ctrip and booked a 5-diamond local hotel (Wansheng International Hotel). The hotel is in the city center, making it convenient to move around. When we arrived, the hotel was very impressive, with a magnificent lobby decorated with white marble, giving a splendid feeling. The service was excellent; as soon as we got out of the car, a bellboy helped open the door and carry luggage. The hotel had prepared small towels for face and hands and tea (very fragrant, the tea seemed to be called "Lychee Red"). Check-in was fast.
The room was spacious. Since the weather in Dunhuang is dry, the room was equipped with a humidifier and a small refrigerator for storing food. We were on a high floor, looking out the window with a feeling of overlooking the world. The hardware in the room was well maintained and looked brand new.
Since it was already afternoon, the driver arranged a performance for us: "See Dunhuang Again"—a stage play directed by the famous director Wang Chaoge. After a short rest, the driver called to say it was time to go. When we arrived, the driver pointed out that the Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Center was next to it, where we would go the next day for the shuttle bus and digital films. The performance was about to start. We found our seats and waited quietly (the venue was packed).
Maybe because it was my first immersive stage play, using a flowing performance style where you walk and watch. The performance areas were above, below, and all around—east, west, south, north. The immersive experience made me feel like I was there, blending into the dust of history, taking us back a thousand years. This form of stage presentation amazed and surprised me.
Afterward, we discussed how before, besides movie theaters, I usually refused such venues. But now it was different; just one performance and I fell in love with this form (was this love at first sight?). With an excited heart, the driver took us to the Big Red Gate (Dunhuang Night Market, haha). It was so lively—food, drinks, games. A small street had everything. Since the end of the street was full of barbecue restaurants, we decided to have a couple of drinks.
Full and satisfied, since we had asked the driver earlier and he said the hotel was only about 800 meters from the night market, we chose to walk back to the hotel (the driver also wanted to go home early, and we wanted to digest). Back at the hotel, we inquired and found out they had laundry service. We quickly went upstairs to sort our clothes and called the front desk. A staff member came right away to check. We specifically asked if the clothes could be dried. The service lady told us confidently: No problem, I will deliver them to you in the morning before you leave. (She was very confident, and we told her we would leave at 8:30.)
Day 5: Dunhuang. Just before 8:15, the service lady called: Can I bring the clothes now? Of course. In less than two minutes, there was a knock. She said: Good morning, I just called you, I'm here to deliver your clothes. (All hotel staff greet each other when they meet, not just guests.) I took the clothes; they were neatly folded, and every piece was dry. (I felt the hotel paid great attention to details. It was indeed our carefully chosen hotel, the most comfortable one on our trip.)
We organized the things we needed to take out. At exactly 8:30, the driver called to say: It's time to go to the Mogao Caves; we have a morning appointment. (The driver said: You must book in advance; tickets for Mogao Caves in July and August are very tight.) We went to the place where we watched the performance yesterday. Since the driver had picked up our tickets in advance, we quickly entered the reception hall to start visiting the exhibition and watching the theme movie and dome movie. (At the cinema entrance, foreign visitors can get free simultaneous interpretation headphones for the movie; available in English, Korean, and Japanese.)
Theme movie: "Millennium Mogao" (20 minutes), introducing the excavation and history of Mogao Caves. Dome movie: "Dreamy Buddhist Palace" (20 minutes), showing murals and colored sculptures from classic representative caves of different periods. After the screening, we entered the shuttle bus waiting area.
We took a dedicated eco-friendly sightseeing bus directly to the Mogao Caves area for the visit. (It's about 15 kilometers from the Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Center to the cave area, about a 20-minute bus ride.)
Mogao Caves, commonly known as the Thousand Buddha Grottoes, are located at the western end of the Hexi Corridor in Dunhuang. Construction began during the Former Qin period under Emperor Fu Jian, and was expanded through the Northern Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, Western Xia, Yuan, and other dynasties, forming a huge scale with 735 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals, and 2,415 clay-colored sculptures. It is the world's largest and richest existing Buddhist art site.
The first feeling upon arriving was that the atmosphere became solemn. In such a sacred place, people put away their smiles and began to pray earnestly, asking the Buddha to bless their wishes.
Listening to the guide's explanation, I secretly resolved to learn more about "it" and then come back again to appreciate "it" on another trip.
When we returned, it was noon. The driver took us to a restaurant to taste local cuisine: "Donkey Meat Yellow Noodles." There is an old local saying: "Dragon meat in heaven, donkey meat on earth," both considered unparalleled. Donkey Meat Yellow Noodles is a famous dish in Dunhuang, known as a unique Chinese delicacy. It consists of two dishes: a plate of donkey meat as the main dish, paired with hand-pulled yellow noodles as the staple. This is a long-standing folk tradition in Dunhuang. Both visitors and locals will see many donkey meat yellow noodle shops on the roadside. The authentic one known to Dunhuang locals is Shunzhang Yellow Noodle Restaurant, the representative of Dunhuang's donkey meat yellow noodles.
After eating, we returned to the hotel to rest for a while. The sun was strong; you must take sun protection measures, or your parents won't recognize you when you go home.
After resting a bit, we set off for the Yardang landform. Dunhuang Yardang landform is part of the ancient Lop Nur region. On this magical land of Dunhuang, nature has created many wonders. The Dunhuang Yardang is located at the border of Xinjiang and Gansu, more than 80 kilometers northwest of Yumen Pass. It is a typical yardang landform complex, orderly arranged and uniquely shaped, a rare natural sculpture museum. It is another wonder of Dunhuang, a masterpiece of nature's exquisite craftsmanship.
After countless years of nature's fine carving, a stunning painting has emerged. Next, we headed to Crescent Moon Spring and Singing Sand Mountains (I heard that children in Dunhuang ride camels to school). As soon as we entered the gate, we saw a dense crowd ahead. Getting closer, we saw tourists, camels, and staff scattered like ants across the dunes.
What amazed me most was that, to avoid camel traffic jams, traffic lights were specifically installed (further confirming that Dunhuang kids ride camels to school).
At the top of Singing Sand Mountain, there are entertainment activities like dune buggies and sand sliding (separate fees apply).
Crescent Moon Spring is nearly 100 meters long from north to south, about 25 meters wide from east to west, with the deepest part about 5 meters. It is shaped like a crescent moon, hence its name, and is known as the "No. 1 Spring in the Desert." It has been one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Dunhuang" since the Han Dynasty and was listed as a national scenic area in 1994. The spring is home to pondweed and charophyte algae, with dense reeds on the south bank. It is surrounded by shifting sand, but the spring is never buried by sand even during strong winds. Because "the spring reflects the moon without dust" and "the sand never fills the spring, and the spring never dries up," it is a wonder. Singing Sand Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring are twin sisters in the desert Gobi. "The mountain sings for its spirit, and the water is more beautiful for its magic." There is a saying: "Singing Sand Mountain soothes the soul, Crescent Moon Spring cleanses the heart."
We lingered until sunset before reluctantly returning to the hotel. We were very tired. We washed the sand off our bodies, changed into clean clothes. The driver took us to a nice farmhouse restaurant, where we had another local specialty: "Populus Euphratica Stewed Pancake."
Tomorrow we would leave, and I felt a bit reluctant. There were still many attractions we hadn't visited. As I said before: it's okay to leave some regrets; next time we will bring more people, as veterans to make up for the regrets of this trip. After waking up, we started packing our luggage. The driver called to say he would be here soon. After saying goodbye to the hotel lady, the driver arrived. On the car, the driver said: These are from my own home; take them home to eat. He also gave us some local specialties: Mingshan jujubes, raisins, etc. (We also got the driver's address; as a courtesy, we will send him some of our local specialties.) In just a few days, we felt the warmth of the people of the Northwest. At the airport, we waved goodbye to the driver and strode toward the airport without looking back. (I really couldn't bear to part; if only we could play a few more days!)
