Dunhuang Dream Finally Realized: A Solo Journey of Pursuing Dreams
My longing for Dunhuang began with two essays by writer Yu Qiuyu, "The Daoist Pagoda" and "The Mogao Caves." The former exposes the tragedy of China's most brilliant ancient culture, while the latter praises and celebrates this splendid culture. Both essays converge on a single theme: the Chinese nation has a civilization spanning thousands of years, one that is vast and glorious, yet fraught with vicissitudes. It has weathered countless trials and continues to thrive to this day.
DAY 1 Arrival in Dunhuang ------ Check-in at Vanguard International Hotel ------ Watch "See Dunhuang Again"
In September 2021, I finally had the opportunity to embark on this long-awaited journey! Considering the convenience of visiting the Dunhuang Night Market, I booked a Ctrip five-diamond hotel in the city center—Vanguard International Hotel. I had no high expectations for hotels in the northwest before coming, but this hotel amazed me. At first, I was slightly disappointed when I arrived at the entrance; the exterior looked quite ordinary. However, stepping into the lobby, it was resplendent and magnificent, illuminated by a giant crystal chandelier. Then came into view a vivid oil painting of the Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring at the front desk, so lifelike and enticing. The hotel corridors and rooms were adorned with oil paintings of various local scenic spots, imbuing a strong cultural atmosphere.
I arrived at the hotel in the afternoon. I had booked a visit to the Mogao Caves for the next morning and had no plans for that evening. The front desk staff enthusiastically recommended that I watch "See Dunhuang Again" that night, saying it was a must-see when in Dunhuang, with a dedicated shuttle service for the performance. I went and found it truly worthwhile! "See Dunhuang Again" uses an immersive performance format to recount the history of Dunhuang from beginning to end, allowing the audience to walk and watch. The various immersive performances felt as if the scenes were leaping out at you. The final large-scale live stage performance, employing 3D sand painting effects, seamlessly weaves history into a single thread. It felt as if even someone completely unfamiliar with Dunhuang history would gain a comprehensive and systematic impression after watching the show. It was absolutely stunning!
DAY 2 Finally Seeing the Mogao Caves ------ Dunhuang Museum ------ Dunhuang Night Market
The Mogao Caves, commonly known as the Thousand Buddha Caves, are located at the western end of the Hexi Corridor in Dunhuang. Construction began during the Former Qin period of the Sixteen Kingdoms and continued through the Sixteen Kingdoms, Northern Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Western Xia, and Yuan dynasties, forming a massive complex with 735 caves, 45,000 square meters of murals, and 2,415 painted clay sculptures. It is the world's largest and richest repository of Buddhist art.
On the second morning, after watching two dome-screen movies at the Mogao Caves Digital Center, I finally arrived at the Mogao Caves scenic area. I saw the Daoist Pagoda, bearing witness to the humiliating history of cultural relics plundering. I also saw the thousand-year-old Mogao Caves, listening to the echoes of history and experiencing the most brilliant culture of ancient China!
Once upon a time, Japanese scholar Fujieda Akira arrogantly declared, "Dunhuang is in China, but the research is abroad." However, the words "China·Dunhuang" can never be erased by the looters. As long as these surviving relics exist, these words will be remembered by all conscientious Chinese, and Dunhuang culture will never perish. Now, he has to admit, "Dunhuang is in China, and Dunhuang studies are in China!" We will joyfully see that the flying apsaras of Dunhuang are spreading their wings again, and this marks a new turning point for an ancient nation!
In the afternoon, I visited the Dunhuang Museum to further understand the history and artifacts of Dunhuang, deepening my impression of its past. In the evening, I went to the Dunhuang Night Market, which was very lively, with streets for handicrafts and food. The handicrafts were dazzling but didn't particularly catch my interest—I love food more than crafts. At Shazhou Food Street in the night market, I had the famous beef pie and grilled meat, which were quite good. Strolling the night market alone was a bit boring, so after eating and drinking my fill, I returned to the hotel to rest.
DAY 3 Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring ------ Return Journey
The Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring Scenic Area is located five kilometers south of Dunhuang. The coexistence of sand and spring creates a natural wonder, renowned through the ages as a "desert marvel." The Singing Sand Dunes are named for the sound produced when the sand moves. In the Eastern Han, it was called Sand Horn Mountain, commonly known as Divine Sand Mountain; it was first called Singing Sand Dunes in the Jin Dynasty. The dunes stretch over 40 kilometers east-west and about 20 kilometers north-south, with the main peak at 1,715 meters above sea level. The peaks are steep and the ridges sharp, regenerating after being disturbed; when people slide down on the sand, there is a sound like drums and horns, sometimes as light as strings, sometimes as loud as thunder—this is known as "Sand Ridge Clear Sound." Crescent Moon Spring is nestled within the embrace of the Singing Sand Dunes, shaped like a crescent moon, hence its name. It was anciently called Sand Well, also Medicine Spring, once erroneously known as Wowā Pond, and was officially named Crescent Moon Spring in the Qing Dynasty. The water is sweet and clear, like a mirror, enduring through the ages without sand entering the spring or the water becoming turbid or dry. Iron fish leap, star-like grass glows, the water is still and reflects the moon, gathering beauty in one place—thus called "Crescent Spring Dawn Clarity." Sand Ridge Clear Sound and Crescent Spring Dawn Clarity are both among the Eight Sights of Dunhuang. —Excerpt from the official website of Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring
On the morning of my third day in Dunhuang, I visited Crescent Moon Spring. I sincerely marveled at the wonders of nature, feeling that no amount of praise could fully describe the magnificent scenery of the Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring. Within the scenic area, one can ride camels, sandboard, or drive off-road motorcycles. I also saw many flying apsara cosplayers taking photos; the beautiful scenery complemented the apsaras, creating a stunning sight. I didn't verify whether the sand of the Singing Sand Dunes actually makes a sound, but a crescent-shaped spring in the vast desert is truly magical!
After finishing my visit to the Singing Sand Dunes and Crescent Moon Spring, I hurried back to the hotel to pack and then set off on the return journey. It was a fulfilling trip that realized my long-held dream, though there were also regrets—because of the short time, I couldn't fully experience all aspects of Dunhuang. For the millennium-old Dunhuang, I will come again if I have the chance!
