The Third "Date" with Northwest China: A 19-Day, 5,000-km In-depth Photography Journey through Gansu, Qinghai, and Inner Mongolia!
Only by going to unfamiliar and different places can you leave the noisy world behind! This trip covers approximately 5,000 kilometers, starting from Xining, making a big loop and ending in Xining without retracing any steps. It traverses grasslands, lakes, rivers, gobi, yardangs, deserts, grottoes, temples, danxia landforms, and flower seas... It is a super extended and upgraded version of the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop, only possible when a different kind of travel car driver takes different kinds of guests on a different kind of adventure! For me, doing tourism is an addictive and intoxicating thing—I have gone further and further down this path, incurably so. I love the beautiful scenery along the way; I love the feeling of walking on the road; I love making friends from all over the world during the journey; I love listening to all kinds of people tell their own stories; I love taking photos and flying drones; I love recording every bit of the trip with words... Everyone I meet is a book, a painting, worth savoring carefully!
1. The video clips in the travel notes are all shot with a drone, and the rest of the photos are taken with a mobile phone, original without post-processing. 2. Because the itinerary is quite long, this travel note cannot describe every scenic spot in a running-account style (it would require at least tens of thousands of words), so I have to make selections. 3. In terms of content, my travel notes only talk about the scenic spots, rarely covering itinerary arrangements, accommodation, meals, travel tips, etc. For those interested in these aspects, you can follow me and chat privately for further details.
Pick up at Xining airport one day in advance; D1 Xining - Menyuan Rapeseed Flowers - Qilian Zhuocr Mountain; D2 Qilian - Arou Great Temple - Qilian Mountain Grassland - Biandukou - Shandan Military Horse Farm; D3 Shandan Horse Farm - Badain Jaran Desert, stay in the desert; D4 Exit desert - Pingshan Lake Grand Canyon - stay in Zhangye; D5 Zhangye Mati Temple - Great Buddha Temple - Colorful Danxia Sunset - stay in Zhangye; D6 Zhangye - Jiayuguan Pass - Hanging Great Wall - First Mound of the Great Wall - stay in Jiayuguan; D7 Jiayuguan - Guazhou Earth Child - Yulin Grottoes - stay in Dunhuang; D8 Mogao Grottoes - Mingsha Mountain - stay in Dunhuang; D9 Dunhuang - Yangguan - Aksai Oil Town - stay in Lenghu Town; D10 Lenghu - Eboliang Yardang - Mangnai Emerald Lake - stay in Mangnai; D11 Aiken Spring - Two-Color Lake - stay in Dongtai Village; D12 Water Yardang - U-shaped Highway - stay in Golmud; D13 Chaerhan Salt Lake - stay in Golmud; D14 Golmud - Kunlun Mountains - Hoh Xil - stay in Qumalai County; D15 Qumalai County - Zhongqing Temple - stay in Yushu; D16 Yushu - Wencheng Princess Temple - Jiegu Temple - Mani Stone Scripture City - Star Sea - stay in Maduo County; D17 Maduo - Distant view of Anyemaqen Snow Mountain - Jiuzhi County - Nyingma Temple - Awancang Wetland - First Bend of the Yellow River - stay in Maqu County; D18 Maqu - Langmusi stay; D19 Langmusi - Xining airport end.
Xining Airport Pickup: Must Have a Sense of Ceremony
The three seasoned beauties I brought this time are from Taiyuan, Shanxi. They are both repeat customers and loyal fans, with a special fondness for the Northwest (especially the one in the middle, who has come for the third time). So one day in advance, I bought three bouquets of flowers at the flower shop to surprise them at the airport. This sense of ceremony is a first for me in receiving guests since I started this business (thinking about it, I'm a bit moved myself).
Small interlude: Because the weather in Xining in mid-July is still quite hot, the flowers in the trunk seemed a bit withered, plus their flight was delayed by more than two hours, so I was a bit down.
While waiting for pickup, first there was a fierce wind, then a heavy downpour, and finally a double rainbow appeared. The rhythm was too sudden. Truly: Guests come from the Shanxi land through the air, startling the dark clouds to roll apart!
Two bottles of old Baijiu, a precious friendship. Must be treasured and saved, to be opened on an auspicious day.
The first day of the itinerary, sunny and cooperative weather.
The flowers have withered, but she still can't bear to throw them away, holding them to show off here.
Color and Romance: Strolling in the Menyuan Rapeseed Flower Sea
Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
July in Qinghai is the most beautiful season, with cool weather and fragrant flowers. The Menyuan rapeseed flower sea in the itinerary is absolutely not to be missed.
Allow me to be a bit cheeky in the flower sea! Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
In this season, rapeseed flowers in other parts of the country have long formed seeds, but here they are just beginning, becoming the most beautiful color of summer.
Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
The colorful hues, together with the blue sky, white clouds, mountains, and rivers, form a intoxicating painting.
Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
Looking down from the viewing platform, the beauty is breathtaking.
Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
Cell phones, cameras, and drones all join in, clicking away endlessly, always feeling you can't get enough shots.
Menyuan Hundred-mile Rapeseed Flower Sea
According to the normal itinerary schedule, two to three hours are enough, but we were so mesmerized that we played for over four hours before reluctantly leaving.
According to the planned itinerary, we were to stay overnight at the foot of Zhuocr Mountain in Qilian tonight, so we had to pass through the Qilian Mountain Grassland. Whenever we encountered a beautiful scene, my co-pilot, Teacher Xiaorong, only needed a look or a small gesture for me to realize she wanted to stop for photos. That had to be arranged, and the long-legged effect!
Qilian Mountain Grassland drone aerial photography must also be arranged!
"The sun sets in the west, a bitter man at the end of the world" (my self-mockery). The folk guesthouse at the foot of Zhuocr Mountain has a great location, affordable price, and satisfied guests. Although my stomach was growling with hunger, as soon as I saw the beautiful scenery and heard about taking photos, all practical difficulties were thrown out of mind.
Our own vegetable field, our own mountain—you tell me, is it nice or not?
A Colorful Paradise on Earth: Qilian Zhuocr Mountain
After a night's rest, early the next morning we packed up our gear and entered the scenic area. I don't know how many times I've been to Zhuocr Mountain, but each time it feels different. This time, I definitely had to accompany the guests inside (although there are many steps, the altitude is high, and my knees hurt a bit).
Zhuocr Mountain is an iconic scenic spot in Qilian County, Qinghai, a place that can drive photographers crazy (I said this because I'm not a photographer, but seeing this scene, I was a bit mad myself).
"A mountain is famous not for its height but for its immortals; water is spiritual not for its depth but for its dragons." Because of a beautiful legend, Zhuocr Mountain has gained a touch of fairy spirit and also a layer of romantic charm.
The viewing platform we are on now has a very good location, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains with very broad visibility.
The winding lines at the foot of Zhuocr Mountain are very graceful.
Looking into the distance, the highland barley, rapeseed flowers, villages, and rivers at the foot of the mountain blend together, with different colors complementing each other, like a rich ink painting.
Immersed in such beautiful scenery, wouldn't it be a waste of the visual feast that nature has given us if we didn't show off a bit?
However, I must remind everyone that the altitude at the top of the mountain is around 4,000 meters, so when viewing here, you need to walk slowly and avoid strenuous exercise to prevent altitude sickness. But the seasoned beauties accompanying me were quite experienced and felt nothing.
Magnificent as if heaven and earth were woven into brocade—every casual shot is a masterpiece!
Standing on the beacon tower, the view is extremely wide. Opposite is Niuxin Mountain, on the left and right are Ladiao Gorge and Baiyanggou, behind are the rolling Qilian Mountains, and at the foot is the surging Babao River.
By the way, let me remind you that the ticket for Zhuocr Mountain is 80 yuan per person, and there are sightseeing buses, divided into route A and route B, i.e., the east and west entrances. If you take the bus from the east entrance, you have to return the same way, so don't take the wrong one.
In recent years, Zhuocr Mountain has become a must-visit sacred site for many tourists coming to Qinghai, as well as a sketching and inspiration base for writers, poets, and artists. If time permits, it's best to enter around 8 a.m. or after 4 p.m., as the midday light is too strong for good photos.
If you are a deep traveler, I recommend spending a whole day here, from sunrise to sunset, taking it all in at a glance.
Drones are allowed in this scenic area, but you need to operate very carefully. Because the terrain is uneven, and there are many utility poles on the top, plus the altitude exceeds 4,000 meters, the drone may have signal issues. I risked crashing my drone to fly through two batteries, and the results were very good.
We entered around 8 a.m. and played until 3 p.m. It wasn't me urging; the guests just didn't want to leave, as if they could never get enough fun.
Search and Dream: Shandan Horse Farm
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Shandan Horse Farm is located on the Dama'ying Grassland at the northern foot of Lenglongling in the Qilian Mountains, central Hexi Corridor. The terrain is flat, with abundant water and grass, making it an ideal place for horse breeding and growth. It was founded in 121 BC by the Western Han Dynasty's Piaoqi General Huo Qubing, with a history of over 2,130 years. Since the dissolution of the former Soviet Union's Don River Horse Farm, it is currently the largest horse farm in the world. Because of this highlight, I specially arranged this itinerary.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Perhaps you have a picture in your mind: "Herds of strong horses grazing on the vast grassland, with rolling mountains, boundless grassland, and galloping horses—an impressive and expansive scene. Riding at full speed across the endless plains, intoxicated in the picturesque green fields..." However, I smirked inwardly.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Let's first understand the history of the horse farm: In 121 BC, the Western Han Dynasty's Piaoqi General Huo Qubing defeated the Xiongnu at the foot of Yanzhi Mountain. The defeated Xiongnu sang a sad song and withdrew from the Qilian Mountain pasture. From then on, the Han Empire began to station troops and raise horses on this precious piece of Dama'ying Grassland, which became the royal horse farm for successive dynasties. It mainly bred Qinghai-Tibetan horses, Mongolian horses, Yili horses, Dayuan horses, Don horses, Hequ horses, and Baizhang Biezheng horses (blood-sweating horses), etc. Since September 1949, the Shandan Military Horse Farm has been under military management, serving as China's and even Asia's largest military horse breeding base, with a maximum stock of 20,000 finished horses, supplying military and civilian needs across the country. At the same time, it carefully cultivated the "Shandan Horse" with excellent pack, ride, and draft capabilities, making great contributions to the breeding and reproduction of new horse breeds for the motherland.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
With the changes of the times, the role of horse raising has gradually faded from the historical stage. The horse farm now mainly focuses on planting, but its reputation is widespread, attracting many visitors every year.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
To realize the guests' dream of "ten thousand horses galloping," I specially arranged accommodation at the horse farm, just to catch a glimpse of the horses drinking water in the morning.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
We charged the cameras and drones early in the evening, ready for this moment.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Here they come, they are coming, really coming.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
This is the "ten thousand horses galloping" from an aerial perspective. You can imagine: "Under the blue sky and white clouds, sturdy horses rush past like a storm from the endless grassland, with long manes flying and thunderous sounds..."
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
The grassland wetland under the morning light.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
The Piaoqi General's camp.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
These small wooden houses are my favorite.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Another voiceover in my mind: I have a house, facing the sea, with spring flowers blooming...
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Time will fade, but images will last forever. Every step we take leaves a trace: From tomorrow on, be a happy person, feeding horses, chopping firewood, traveling around the world, giving every river and every mountain a warm name...
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Learn to be alone. The ancients said: Rather than clinging to each other in a dried-up pond, it's better to forget each other in the rivers and lakes. So the best relationship between people is not to stick together in a dry pond, but to swim freely in one's own world.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Such a sudden sentiment came from the horse farm; from the first director here, Huo Qubing; from his youthful achievements and untimely death; from his brilliance like a meteor streaking across the night sky.
Shandan Military Horse Main Farm
Temporary Farewell to the World: Badain Jaran Desert
There is a desert that spreads from the ground to the sky, and from the sky to endless horizons; there is a desert that once caused a sensation throughout Europe due to a book by German explorer Bowman; there is a desert that is unique in the world because of the numerous lakes scattered within it. This is the Badain Jaran Desert.
From now on, there will be no mobile phone signal. We will temporarily say goodbye to this noisy world.
The bauhinia flowers on the edge of Badain Jaran Town are beautiful—a must-photo.
Having written so much in this travel note, it's time for the author to show his true face! Look! His appearance is so distinctive. Holding an oil-paper umbrella, standing in the endless flower sea, with a natural expression, confident and calm posture and gaze—truly "a handsome man topples the city, the landscape loses its color." Key point: The photo was well taken by someone else; it has nothing to do with me.
The Badain Jaran Desert borders the Ejina Populus Euphratica Forest Scenic Area, which is well worth a special trip. The regular entrance to the Badain Jaran Desert is located in Badain Jaran Town, Alxa Right Banner.
The Badain Jaran Desert is famous for its "unique peaks, singing sand, lakes, sacred springs, and ancient temples." The highlights are: Nuoertu, Bilutu (desert peak), Yinderitu (to see the sacred spring), Badain Jaran Temple (to worship the desert imperial palace), and Baoritaolegai (to experience singing sand).
No matter what means of transportation you use to reach Badain Jaran, you will eventually have to hire a special desert SUV to go into the desert hinterland. It is uniformly managed by the Badain Jaran Desert Tourism Development Company, with uniform prices and routes. Each vehicle costs 3,000 yuan for a round trip, and tickets and accommodation are charged separately.
Our first stop was Badain Lake, where we had a short stay.
If the Badain Jaran Desert is the most beautiful desert, then this pink lake in its hinterland is a pink gem embedded in the most beautiful desert. This is the focus of this trip, a place I have been longing to visit.
What causes this unique color? It is because the lake water contains minerals such as potassium and sodium, and a type of halophilic green microalgae called Dunaliella salina, which produces heme under specific conditions, turning the salt lake into a rare "rose lake." This phenomenon is only seen in high-temperature areas.
Another theory is that it is due to a local specialty—"salt brine worms." These worms are highly salt-tolerant and live in salt lakes. The carotene they contain during reproduction can turn the lake water red. The higher the salinity, the more algae, and the redder the lake.
Regardless of the reason, the pink lake is fascinating.
Normally, June to August is the best season to see the red lake, but what we saw this time was far less beautiful than the pictures on the internet. Perhaps the climate conditions this year are a bit special.
The most magical thing about Badain Jaran is its numerous lakes (commonly called "haizi"). There are 74 permanent lakes, mostly saline and undrinkable, and 12 freshwater lakes, with an area of about 1 to 1.5 square kilometers and a maximum depth of 6.2 meters, all distributed in the southeastern part of the desert.
When the car climbs sand dunes in a zigzag pattern, the feeling is very special. Compared to the huge sand mountains, the vehicle is so tiny, making one marvel at the wonder of nature.
Here, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, deep in the desert, you can feel the tranquility between heaven and earth.
Walking alone silently in the Badain Jaran of this northwestern corner, I think it has long seen through the vicissitudes of the world after thousands of years of ups and downs.
One of the important experiences in the desert is sand surfing. The vehicle runs on the wave-like curves of the sand dunes, shuttling between continuous high sand dunes. You will feel the vastness of the Badain Jaran Desert and experience thrills and excitement. For safety, I still told Driver Xiao Liu to drive as steadily and slowly as possible.
Let me show off our ride for this trip!
The vegetation around the lake is lush, mostly wet and salt-tolerant plants, as well as dense reeds, willows, and sea buckthorn, forming a unique small ecological circle rarely disturbed by humans.
At sunset, standing on the sand mountain, you can have a panoramic view of the rolling sand sea and gem-like lakes. At this time, using your camera to capture precious travel memories will make this trip worthwhile!
This is the largest Nuoertu Haizi in the desert, which you must not miss. "Nuoertu" means "haizi, lake" in Mongolian, named because Nuoertu Haizi is the largest lake in the Badain Jaran Desert.
If you have never been to the desert, you cannot truly understand life; if you have never penetrated deep into the desert, you cannot truly comprehend the majesty and beauty of the vast desert. So, this place is definitely worth a visit.
My Turf, I Call the Shots: Checking in at Zhangye
Zhangye is my hometown. On this magical land, thousands of years of brilliance are recorded, and legends are written generation after generation. As a pearl on the Silk Road, I highly recommend it in this itinerary.
Here, not only are there vast yellow sands and clear waters, but also the Qilian Mountains with snow on their peaks all year round. The Mati Temple we are going to in the morning is located in the Linsong Valley at the foot of the Qilian Mountains.
Mati Temple is not a simple temple; it is a complex of grottoes carved into the cliffs. It is said that a heavenly horse once passed by and left a hoof print, hence the name. This hoof print is a treasure enshrined in the Mati Hall.
The earliest record tells of a literati named Guo Yu who came to Zhangye, carved a cave here, lived in seclusion, practiced Taoism, and lectured, playing a very important role in spreading Han culture.
The Mati Temple Grottoes can also be called the Hanging Temple, built on steep cliffs. The engineering was massive, and the steps and passages are extremely dangerous and difficult, leaving people in awe.
The grottoes were first excavated during the Sixteen Kingdoms period of the Northern Liang, with a history of over 1,600 years. They are a famous Buddhist holy site on the Hexi Corridor and the only grotto complex in China located in snowy mountains at the highest altitude.
However, after countless changes and wars, they have been severely damaged. Generations of history have left layers of marks here. The only constant is the Buddha statues with lowered brows and compassionate smiles and eyes. I sincerely hope that everyone respects and cherishes historical and cultural relics.
According to the normal one-day tour of Zhangye, the morning is usually for Mati Temple and the afternoon for Colorful Danxia. Just for a perfect sunset.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
The Colorful Danxia Scenic Area has become an increasingly popular 5A-level scenic spot in recent years. Most first-time visitors to Zhangye's Colorful Danxia are shocked by the landscape before their eyes.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
If these landscapes were man-made, it would be one thing, but they are naturally formed. We can't help but marvel at the wonder of nature. Some people describe it as the Jade Emperor's palette fallen to earth, but I think it is not quite accurate—it should be the rainbow of heaven fallen to the mortal world.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
Currently, there are four viewing platforms open: No. 1 Colorful Fairy Platform, No. 2 Colorful Cloud Sea Platform, No. 3 Colorful Brocade Platform, and No. 4 Colorful Rosy Cloud Platform. These four platforms only cover a small part of the Danxia scenic area, and a large area remains to be further developed.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
Because it is the peak tourist season, the viewing platforms are crowded with people, making it very difficult to find a suitable shooting spot.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
This is a very good shooting angle, capturing the perfect curve of the scenic road.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
The scene of hot air balloons flying everywhere, only seen in Turkey before, is realized here. When the balloon rises to about 50 meters, you can have a better view of the full panorama of Zhangye's Colorful Danxia, immersing yourself in a colorful fairy tale world and experiencing a new visual feast.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
Returning to the city in the evening, since this is my turf, I naturally took charge. As per usual, I invited the guests to taste local specialties, and the fried "pao zhang" (a kind of noodle dish) was a must. Due to space constraints, I won't show the pictures one by one.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
As a pearl on the Hexi Corridor, Zhangye has profound historical and cultural heritage, especially in culinary culture, and the key is the low price. Those who eat it will know!
Zhangye Colorful Danxia Scenic Area - Viewing Platform
In recent years, with the gradual development of tourism, its fame has grown. Today, we only visited two representative attractions—Mati Temple and Colorful Danxia—in one day. Besides these, there are other niche attractions, such as Binggou Danxia, Alien Valley, Ghost Face Danxia, Yanzhi Mountain, Kangle Grassland, and the Great Buddha Temple. Due to time constraints, we had to leave them for next time, giving the guests a reason to return to Zhangye.
Searching for Solitude and Desolation: Guazhou
In his poem, Tao Yuanming wrote: "Step by step, I search for traces of the past, and the places are especially touching." Here, I want to focus on Guazhou in Gansu. In ancient times, Guazhou could be called an internet-famous city. Successive dynasties and ethnic groups lived on the vast land of Guazhou, and today many ancient city ruins remain. Guazhou County has become one of the counties in western China with the most preserved ancient city ruins. For example, Suoyang City has preserved the most complete ancient military defense system and agricultural irrigation system in China. It is the largest Tang Dynasty prefecture in China and was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2014. Of course, due to time constraints, we skipped these places this time and focused on visiting the Earth Child and Boundless.
The Earth Child is a large sculpture located on the red slope gobi of Guazhou County. It is different from the sculptures we usually see—it is not a Buddha, Bodhisattva, or historical figure, but a large baby. The baby is neither sitting nor lying down, but in a kneeling and crawling position on the ground, looking peacefully asleep.
This desert seems like the mother's embrace, letting him sleep soundly. This visually striking scene evokes a sense of tenderness in many people.
Enjoy a short aerial video.
You may have encountered mirages in movies or dreams, but here, a real scene appears before us.
When the seemingly unreachable and ever-changing marine landscape, pavilions, towers, towers, appear in the gobi—sometimes near, sometimes far, real and illusory—it is truly a rare sight. This was created by Professor Dong Shubing of the Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts.
Isn't this scene beautiful?
This sculpture uses over 6,000 special customized scaffolding pipes for construction engineering, connected by more than 30,000 fasteners. Due to changing light and wind, it produces many fascinating scenes in the desert, especially at sunset, making it more ethereal and illusory.
In addition, in this gobi sculpture art corridor, there are other sculptures such as "Emperor Han Wu," "Wind Whisperer," and "Gobi Ark" worth stopping to appreciate and feel.
A Foodie's Dream: Dunhuang
Dunhuang—"Dun" means great, and "Huang" means flourishing. Because of its wide opening to the Western Regions, it was named Dunhuang. From the moment this city was born, it was destined to be extraordinary.
The thousand-year-old Library Cave, the two-thousand-year-old Mogao Grottoes, and the seven-thousand-year-old Silk Road. During the Han Dynasty, Dunhuang was the throat of the Silk Road. Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions and Huo Qubing's fight against the Xiongnu are both related to Dunhuang. In the Tang Dynasty, Xuanzang set out from the capital Chang'an, passed through Liangzhou, and left through Yumen Pass between Guazhou and Dunhuang, enduring hardships to reach India. Dunhuang has become very popular in recent years (in fact, the entire Northwest has been quite hot lately).
This itinerary naturally arranged for the guests to visit the Mogao Grottoes and Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring. With so much information about these two attractions available online, I won't repeat it.
Let's talk about other things, like the brilliant blue sky, the wispy clouds, and the happy mood!
And a local specialty: sandstorms. We encountered them all this time, which can be considered a welcome gift from Dunhuang to my guests.
As a native of the Northwest, I've seen this kind of scene since childhood and it's no big deal. According to usual practice, sandstorms end around April or May, but this year the weather has been particularly unreliable—even in July, such bad weather often occurs. In a word: for economic development, humans have taken endlessly, and now we need to pay the price.
When you arrive in Dunhuang, if you don't go to the night market to experience the lively atmosphere, it's like going there for nothing.
The Dunhuang Night Market is known as the "night view" and "romantic painting" of Dunhuang. At night, it is brilliantly lit, crowded with people, with all kinds of local goods dazzling the eyes, and the food area has long queues, full of the fireworks of life.
After years of careful development, this place is quite distinctive, with clear functional zones. The local specialty small commodity area is especially worth a stroll. You can pick a few souvenirs with Dunhuang characteristics to keep as mementos.
The food area goes without saying, with a bustling scene and difficult to find a seat.
Various specialty foods from all over the Northwest gather here. Although the price is high, since we are here, we should treat our taste buds.
Everywhere good-looking guys and girls—seems everyone is a foodie.
When you arrive in Dunhuang, you must take a photo in front of the city's landmark: the Pipa Playing Backwards sculpture. The Pipa Playing Backwards is the most famous artistic image in Tang Dynasty dance culture, renowned both at home and abroad. The widely accepted origin is the Dunhuang murals, but I have also referred to related articles, and some scholars have different opinions.
Speaking of Yumen Pass, the first thing that comes to mind is Wang Zhihuan's poem "Liangzhou Ci": "Why should the Qiang flute blame the willows? The spring wind does not cross Yumen Pass." This poem, which every Chinese person learned in elementary school, has been rooted in our minds for a long time, but not many people actually come here to trace its origins. So I specially arranged this stop in this itinerary, for one reason: nostalgia.
Coming here, you can feel the desolation in the poem. Thinking about the people who guarded this place in the past, facing such desolation, how great they were. Only then can you deeply feel the word "blame" in the poem—how deeply ingrained it is!
Yumen Pass has been a heavy color in the writings of literati since ancient times. Only when you are there can you truly understand why.
For over a thousand years, it has been buried by sand almost completely. Seeing the remaining city wall ruins and beacon towers, you suddenly feel a sense of awe. What a massive project, how much manpower and material resources must have been consumed to complete it?
The small mound you see now is called Xiaofangpan City. It was first built around the time when Emperor Wu of Han opened the Western Regions and established the four commanderies of Hexi. Although it looks far less majestic and grand than imagined, it was an important military pass in the Han Dynasty and a major thoroughfare on the Silk Road.
Despite thousands of years of wind and rain erosion, it still stands in the gobi desert, as if telling people about the glory and prosperity of the great desert pass.
The weather is hot, so we must eat melon. Forcefully cut the melon, with skillful technique, have a full meal, and continue westward.
Searching for the "Black Mountain Demon": They Are Persistent
In the Northwest, there are countless unique niche attractions created by nature. One place that looks like outer space is called the Black Mountain Gobi. This year, thanks to online hype, it has become extremely popular. The guests I brought had learned about it in advance and insisted on going there. Even though I said on the way that legend has a "Black Mountain Demon" living in the Black Mountain Gobi, specializing in tormenting beautiful women, especially seasoned beauties, they were not convinced and chimed in: "We hope the legend is true!" I fainted!
This place is about 20 kilometers from Lenghu Town, and most tourists usually overlook it. It is not considered a scenic spot, just a passing place.
But for us four, we had to check in.
From a distance, peaks connect, with large and small hills covered with gray gravel and pebbles. The hills are covered with black sand, giving an unreal feeling.
Some say this is the place most like the moon—besides black mountains, there are only black mountains, fulfilling people's fantasies about the moon. Perhaps there are no traces of human or animal life here, only desolation.
The wind and sand in the gobi are strong, and vehicles can easily get stuck in the sand. You must drive along the vehicle tracks and avoid driving on steep slopes. Due to time constraints, we didn't go further into the depths of the gobi, so we naturally didn't take the ideal masterpieces. We flew the drone about two kilometers above, but the signal was weak. To avoid crashing, we returned safely.
Currently, this is not a scenic spot, no ticket required, and there are no supermarkets or parking lots along the way. Visitors need to prepare food and water in advance, and also refrain from damaging the scenery of the Black Mountain Gobi, consciously taking their trash with them.
If you like the moon but can't land on the real one, why not come to the Black Mountain Gobi, the place most like the moon, to experience it? Especially for photography enthusiasts, this is indeed a place to get great shots, but the prerequisite is enough time and the ability to endure hardship—only by going deep can you get results.
The Most Beautiful Scenery Is in the Car: The Old Driver
On the road, everything within sight is scenery; emotions are all moods. Looking at the horizon in the distance, healing the wounds in my heart, in an instant, my heart calms down and merges into heaven and earth.
On the entire trip across the Northwest, because the distances between scenic spots are quite large, much of the time is spent on the road, but the most beautiful scenery is precisely on the road.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Accompany each spring, summer, autumn, and winter with a smile, walk through every waning and waxing moon with indifferent feelings. Not seeking dazzling prosperity, but a quiet and peaceful life.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
As long as you are on the road, the time is not wasted. The traces left behind are marks of maturity.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
I like driving for one reason: I like the feeling of being in the car, chatting, thinking, and being silent while moving, then stopping and starting, dodging and weaving, changing direction skillfully, until we reach the destination.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Thanks to our ride "Xiao Bai" (Little White), who accompanied us uncomplainingly day after day, through wind and rain, crossing mountains and seas.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
With it accompanying us on the road, there were moments of joy after passing through muddy sections; moments of frustration when we had to turn back due to impassable roads; moments of gratitude when kind-hearted people helped us; moments of thrilling hurry; and finally, the urgency on the last day of returning home...
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Look at our old driver Teacher Xiaorong's driving skills. From now on, I have a new interpretation of female drivers (a million words omitted here).
Passing by Huangguailiang, a sense of ceremony is a must.
Searching for the Last Pure Land: Water Yardang
Some say it is a jade in the gobi, a forgotten world; some say it is a paradise for adventurers; others say it is a death zone where angels and demons coexist.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
But no matter what, this place is very popular.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
The vast majority of yardang landforms discovered in the world exist in extremely arid regions, but in this unmanned area in northwestern Qinghai, there is a unique water yardang landform.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
It is an ocean that emerges out of nowhere in the endless desert, like a tranquil mirage. The strange shapes, unique topography, and ever-changing desert climate attract numerous backpackers from across the country. As a result, during the peak season, housing prices here are ridiculously expensive.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Most friends who have traveled the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop should have visited the Water Yardang, but 90% of people have never seen the "Eye of the Yardang." This is a newly developed area this year, rarely visited even during peak season. You can take great photos even without a drone.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Specifically, take the sightseeing bus from the scenic area to the end, then walk a little further to see the desert sand beach motorcycle rental point. After about 15 minutes, you reach the end, and then walk about 5 minutes to see it.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
The following photos were taken by me with a drone.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
No filters or post-processing, all original images. The round one is the Eye of the Yardang, and the crescent-shaped one is called the Moon of the Yardang.
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
Wusute Yardang Geological Park
This is me—am I imposing or not?
The Long-Awaited Touch of Green: Chaerhan Salt Lake
This is the largest salt lake in China. Seeing this landscape, even an old driver like me can't help but marvel. Because this place is a bit off the beaten path, the regular Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop does not include it.
This year, the scenic area has just started trial operation, and currently only two spots are open: Ten-Thousand-Zhang Salt Bridge and Thousand-Island Salt Flowers.
There are scenes such as a piano on the sea, swings, glass boats, beach chairs, etc., where you can take plenty of photos for memories.
The sightseeing bus here departs every hour, so you need to manage your time well.
Under such scenery, a drone is a must. From God's perspective, take a photo of the scene below—don't you think it's fairy-like?
Filming like this, isn't it dreamy?
By the way, let me talk about some things to pay attention to when taking photos. Along the way, there are places with glass boats where you can take aerial shots, but it costs money. Generally, the best time for photos is morning or noon. As for clothing, brightly colored dresses are definitely the choice, no doubt.
In addition, the salt here is industrial salt and cannot be eaten. The scenic area bus departs once an hour, so pay attention to the time. When going into the water, be careful not to touch the water with bare feet, don't rub your eyes, to avoid hurting your eyes.
The ultraviolet rays in the scenic area are very strong, so wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. Also, this is the world's second-largest salt lake, so be sure to protect the environment and follow the scenic area's regulations.
The colors of the salt lake surface are mainly yellow, white, green, and blue. Any casual shot is a masterpiece. Personally, I suggest not overdoing post-processing. The photos I am posting now are all original from my phone, and I think they are already quite stunning and beautiful.
In the lake, there is also a type of salt known as the "king of salt lakes" called pearl salt. Each grain is white as snow, crystallizes like jade, in the shape of cubes, transparent like glass. But I can't tell which one it is because they are everywhere, everywhere.
The newly built wooden plank road extends into the lake. A red coat and red umbrella—this photo is very evocative, isn't it?
These are the famous salt flowers in the salt lake. What they look like specifically depends entirely on your imagination.
This place is also a classic photo spot, but I don't know what these letters mean.
Searching for Tibetan Antelopes: Hoh Xil
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Sacred Place in the Heart: Yushu
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve
