Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop – Graduation Trip of 2018

Seven-Day Tour of the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop

This was a spontaneous graduation trip. Originally we decided to go to Xi'an and Chongqing, but because we didn't buy plane tickets and the fare went up at departure, we changed our minds and went to the great northwest of our country to broaden our horizons. It just so happened that a high school classmate and roommate (a beautiful girl named Zhang Yuanyuan) ran a military-style youth hostel in Xining and also worked on carpool self-drive tours, which provided us with many conveniences for this trip.

2018.6.22

My companion and I boarded a plane from Yangzhou-Taizhou to Lanzhou. Then we could take an intercity train to Lanzhou West, and from Lanzhou West take a train to Xining (our destination). It's best to buy tickets in advance. The train cost about $60 in total and took over 2 hours. We didn't get tickets, so we had lunch at the airport and took a bus from Zhongchuan Airport to Xining ($100, 3 hours, bumpy ride). The girl waited for us until 6 PM to pick up the four of us, then went to the car fleet to help us find two more girls to join our group for the next day's trip. We had a 7-seat business van; there were also 5-seat and 9-seat options depending on the number of people and the tour route.

In the evening, we went to Xining's snack street and had a bowl of lamb paomo. It wasn't as delicious as I imagined, but the old yogurt in the northwest was really good and available everywhere at a reasonable price.

Personal tip: If you're tired from traveling the day before, you can take a day to rest. As for me, I just wanted to make the most of my time and play.

2018.6.23

Day 1: Xining – Tar Temple ($80) – Laji Mountain (3820m) – Riyue Mountain (seen from the road, didn't stop; compared to Laji Mountain, you know what I mean) – Daotang River (seemed like $20, not recommended to go in; compared to the great scenery, it's nothing) – Qinghai Lake ($50, depends on season and Tibetan locals; usually enter through a Tibetan family's home, don't go to the Erlangjian ticket booth) – Heimahe (accommodation $120-150)

Tar Temple is one of the six major monasteries of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. I felt that if you don't have much faith, going in isn't very exciting. For example, I just wandered around and didn't know anything.

Laji Mountain (a quite spectacular place; I heard it used to be free to enter the palace, but now hardly anyone goes in; it's nice to just look at the scenery from outside).

Qinghai Lake (we happened to encounter a heavy rainstorm; we waited over an hour before getting out to look. It was really cold even wearing a down jacket, but on the road you could see the distant lake merging with the sky. There were also blooming rapeseed flowers by the roadside, very beautiful. If you go into the Erlangjian scenic area, it seems you can't reach the lakeshore).

This is also the place where the Huang fish swim upstream, near Heimahe. After the rain cleared in the afternoon, there were blue skies and white clouds. Normally the sun sets at 9 PM, which was a bit unusual.

We stayed overnight in Heimahe. The accommodation prices here were almost as bad as Da Qaidam; in peak season, you can't get a room even with money. It's said that during peak season, Tibetan locals all move out and rent their homes for $500 per night to tourists. It's best to plan ahead for this area.

2018.6.24

Day 2: Heimahe Sunrise (the driver will tell you roughly what time and if there's a sunrise) – Xiangpi Mountain (passing by) – Chaka Salt Lake (a popular scenic spot on Douyin; free for Zhejiang residents; $70) – Alien Ruins (passing by) – Emerald Lake (an undeveloped salt lake; personally I think it's more beautiful than Chaka Salt Lake because there are fewer people and the reflections are clear) – Da Qaidam (accommodation $200)

On the way from Chaka Salt Lake to Da Qaidam, there's also a freshwater lake. Heading west all the way, you can observe it (I can't remember its name; there are too many mountains and lakes). By the time you reach Emerald Lake, you're already in Da Qaidam, the last stop of the second day.

The sunrise at Heimahe is the best place to appreciate Qinghai Lake. However, we didn't see it because of clouds, but the afterglow was still quite nice. It was worth it for several of us getting up early (5:30 AM).

In the morning, we passed a patch of grassland that was good for photos (tall, hard grass). I accidentally cut my foot on the grass, which made jumping around at Chaka Salt Lake feel quite painful.

Chaka Salt Lake: try to go as far in as possible (better scenery, fewer people) because everyone crowds at the shore. This is also why I don't recommend going during peak season. Fortunately, the weather was good today; otherwise, it wouldn't have been worth it. Qinghai Lake had a rainstorm, and the sunrise at Heimahe was blocked by clouds.

Emerald Lake: because it's undeveloped, the road there is bumpy, and there are a lot of mosquitoes, surprisingly large and venomous. I heard the mosquitoes at Water Yadan are about the size of a thumb. This area was probably the most beautiful part of my 7-day grand loop.

Finally, we returned to Da Qaidam for dinner and accommodation. Da Qaidam had the most expensive accommodation of the trip ($200, and that was the cheapest hotel; of course, in peak season it's like Heimahe).

2018.6.25

Day 3: Da Qaidam – Yadan Devil City (Yadan landform) – Liugong Highway (China's most beautiful highway) – Dangjin Mountain (under 4000m; once you cross this mountain, you enter Gansu from Qinghai) – Oil Town ($20; actually, the fee seems arbitrary; I don't recommend going in; it's just a dump with a broken car for tourists to take photos, though it was the filming location of The Nine-Tiered Pagoda) – Aksai (had lunch at 3 PM) – Dunhuang (checked in; I went desert camping)

Yadan Devil City: there's also a beautiful one called Water Yadan. Water Yadan requires a long detour; to go there you need to add at least one more day to the itinerary. This was also a successful photo I took for a soldier friend in Nanjing, and the 'Five Heroes of Wolf Tooth Mountain'.

Most Beautiful Highway: stopping and taking photos is prohibited. Because we had eaten some watermelon there and were about to take photos, the traffic police came and shooed us away. It's a pity we didn't take any. This photo I took secretly on the road at Yadan Devil City was of another group (a girl from Hunan had a really funny accent). Those people were literally risking their lives for photos.

I didn't go into Oil Town, so I won't say much. We had a meal in Aksai County and continued. Around 6 PM we arrived at the guesthouse in Dunhuang and caught the 7 PM shuttle to Mingsha Mountain for camping. Camping cost $200 per person, including BBQ, beer, desert motorbike rides, watching desert sunset and sunrise, bonfire party, desert disco, etc. If you're too tired, I suggest partying and then going back to the guesthouse to sleep, but you'll have to pay for the return transport and accommodation. Sleeping in a tent in the desert was an experience I never want to repeat. But when traveling, I still recommend trying everything so you can brag about it later. Below are some sunset photos. As for sunrise, we played Werewolf until 3 AM and I really didn't want to get up to climb the sand dunes. Climbing sand dunes is exhausting because you sink and slide.

After Oil Town, there should be Yangguan. To be honest, there's not much to see there either. We spent the whole day in uninhabited areas. Yangguan is also in the great desert, scorching hot, and our eyes were tired.

2018.6.26

Day 4: Dunhuang Mingsha Mountain – Back to guesthouse – Mogao Caves ($200; because tickets are for different time slots, the driver will take you at different times; you need to book tickets at least a month in advance; if you can't get tickets, the driver can help arrange emergency tickets) – Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring (just behind the desert where we camped, a crescent-shaped lake in the desert; you can ride camels, take hot air balloons, etc. Prices are relatively high; if you already camped, I don't recommend going because it's expensive and you can rest in the afternoon) – Dunhuang (accommodation $120; from this point on, accommodation became cheaper and the environment much better)

In the evening, we went to Dunhuang Night Market area for a big plate chicken with white noodles (the driver treated us). It was genuinely the best big plate chicken I've ever had – incredible flavor. Then we strolled around the night market (a nationally famous market). Prices were naturally high; if you want to buy something, you need to bargain.

The camels at Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring: I borrowed the photo from the driver Ma Anping's car (Ma Ge is a Hui Muslim, only goes into halal restaurants). Our driver was Yue Dong (Dong Ge).

After finishing camping in Dunhuang, the remaining days of the trip became less rushed. We could quietly rest and recuperate, without having to wake up early for sunrises or hurry; we could sleep in.

2018.6.27

Day 5: Dunhuang – Guazhou (where black wolfberries are cheap; 50 yuan a jar, you can pack it as full as possible) – Jiayuguan ($120, quite expensive and not worth it; usually people visit the free Jiayuguan Museum next door to learn about the Great Wall's history) – Zhangye Colorful Danxia ($60, Danxia hill landform; after rain, the hills can show seven colors; I went on a cloudy day and saw about four or five) – Stay at Danxia Town ($120)

Guazhou: on the highway, the cheapest area for black wolfberries. You can also buy them in Xining. The Hami melons here are free for tasting and really sweet.

Jiayuguan Museum photo.

Zhangye Colorful Danxia photo.

2018.6.28

Day 6: Zhangye Danxia Town – Biandukou (the mountain gate was closed; otherwise you could see characters planted with rapeseed flowers; now there's only a photo left) – Gangshika Snow Peak (viewed from afar) – Zuo'er Mountain (seems $60, a 4A scenic spot next to Qilian County, another magnificent mountain range) – Qilian County (stay overnight; if there are three cars together, you can have a roast whole lamb here, which is a great experience; not worth it if you're a small group)

On the way from Biandukou to Zuo'er Mountain, there should be places selling dried yak meat, which is relatively cheap. I bought 40 yuan per jin. The key was to try it; I also ate half a jin for free. The Tibetan locals were very enthusiastic.

Biandukou: endless green fields, with a few rapeseed flowers compared to Menyuan. The wind was cool. This is the border between Gansu and Qinghai, returning to green mountains and clear waters.

Halfway up Zuo'er Mountain.

Qilian County at the foot of Zuo'er Mountain.

I'm still alive!!!

2018.6.29

Day 7, the last day of the grand loop: Qilian County – Qilian Grassland (place for horse riding; price depends on the season and how the Tibetan locals charge; I paid $80) – Daban Mountain (you can see the entire Menyuan rapeseed flower fields from a high altitude; of course, Menyuan rapeseed flowers bloom in July-August, which is the peak season for Qinghai tourism) – Heihe Reservoir (very spectacular; I only saw it from the car because it was raining heavily on the way back to Xining, so I didn't get off) – Xining (end point)

I rode 1 kilometer. The horse acted like it hadn't eaten, didn't run, and kept stopping to eat grass. It was a scam and a nuisance.

Qilian Grassland scenery.

Menyuan rapeseed flowers at the foot of the mountain. Unfortunately, they hadn't bloomed yet. The altitude is close to 4000m, and the whole area belongs to the Qilian Mountains.

Finally, around 6 PM, we returned to the youth hostel in Xining. The girl prepared a table full of delicious food for us, sweet and tasty. The next morning, we boarded the return train for 30 hours. It wasn't until we left Shaanxi that we felt comfortable; before that, the road kept going through tunnels and we lost signal, which was annoying. Another experience I never want to repeat.

The whole trip truly broadened my horizons. I sincerely thank Sister Yuanyuan for the itinerary and various tips, and for patiently explaining everything to me (who knew nothing and just went with the flow), as well as her warm hospitality. Thanks also to Dong Ge, who accompanied us the whole way. Dong Ge booked all our accommodation, which was good and cheap – especially the luxurious suite in Qilian for just 140 yuan, so comfortable that we didn't get up until noon. He also explained and recommended the scenic spots we passed and even took us to places not on our route, making our northwest trip worthwhile.

Finally, I'd like to share some tips for carpool self-drive tours in the northwest:

1) Bring a complete set of clothes. Bring clothes for all four seasons: short sleeves, long sleeves, fleece jacket, sweater, light down jacket. I basically used all of them. The temperature difference is huge; change clothes as needed to prevent catching a cold. In the high-altitude area, a cold can lead to pulmonary edema, and then you have to go down for treatment, and your trip is basically over. For women, the brighter the clothes, the better. Bright red is a good choice – photos come out especially nice.

2) The west is very dry. Drink plenty of water and eat plenty of fruit. Before going to Qinghai Lake, it's recommended to buy a case of water and fruit in Xining and bring it along. When water runs out, buy more cases and load them onto the car. Don't buy too much fruit because when you get to Dunhuang, desert fruits are sold everywhere and are very sweet. If you love lamb, you're in luck – the lamb here is not gamey and tastes great. Generally, meal times are irregular, so bring snacks to stave off hunger. Eat whenever you can at places along the way. I drank four or five bottles of mineral water a day, but my lips were still dry. Every meal was particularly delicious because I was usually starving. Occasionally, I had nosebleeds in the morning and evening. It was normal to get out of breath after a few steps of running or jumping – don't be afraid. Just be careful when taking photos.

3) During peak season, it's best to book accommodation in advance. Bring your own toiletries and slippers (usually not needed; if you have a suitcase, bring them; I think it's good to bring two pairs of shoes in case one gets wet or dirty).

4) The grand loop is about 2600 km. Make sure the front passenger seat rotates with others to keep chatting with the driver to keep him awake. If the atmosphere is lively, you can sing. Don't let the driver doze off. If you're not careful on mountain roads, it could be dangerous and no one would know. People from far away (like me) don't need to drive themselves – the trip will be tiring, and you might get altitude sickness and slow reactions. Safety is the top priority when traveling.

5) Tips for some scenic spots:

- Upon entering a scenic spot, you may find it dirty and messy; don't expect too much. But photos taken at the salt lake have character.

- Mogao Caves: To protect the heritage, the daily visitor limit is below 6,000. So you must book tickets on the official website at least a month in advance. Mogao Caves also have a digital exhibition center. Before visiting, you watch two movies introducing the caves – really amazing, as if you travel back a thousand years. I have to praise the careful planning of the Mogao Caves management!

- No need to rent shoe covers; bring a bag to put your shoes in. It feels very comfortable to walk barefoot on the fine sand! It's very hot at noon and in the afternoon; it's best to go in the evening.

- Zhangye Danxia landform and Zuo'er Mountain: You need to take a shuttle bus inside; don't get off at the wrong entrance, or you'll have a long way to go.

6) Best travel time:

People say July and August are the best seasons for northwest travel. July has the most people and the hottest weather, but the rapeseed flowers are beautiful. If you come in mid-August, there are relatively fewer tourists, the temperature is not too high, and it's quite comfortable. Generally, try not to go in July, because crowds spoil the natural scenery; it's better to miss the Menyuan rapeseed flowers. Personally, I suggest late June, late August, and early September are good time windows. The key is to plan ahead.

7) The plateau has strong sunlight and intense UV rays; take full sun protection measures.

8) For tent accommodation, if you're a clean freak, don't consider it. Also, public toilets are a big problem for domestic tourism, even worse in the west – be mentally prepared. Many places charge for toilets. For us guys, we could go anywhere; actually, many girls also relieve themselves anywhere because there's no choice, given that nature calls.

9) Some accommodations don't have Wi-Fi, but cell signal is surprisingly good except in uninhabited areas; most of the time you can contact the outside world.

10) Everyone should bring a few hundred yuan in cash; many Tibetan locals don't use Alipay or WeChat Pay.

In short, as long as you make adequate preparations, the great northwest is not as desolate and scary as you imagine.

Beautiful scenery will be unforgettable!