Nine-Day Trip to Xining, Zhangye, and Dunhuang After the National Day Holiday in October 2023

The long-planned trip to the northwest went smoothly. Unexpectedly, as Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day approached, airfare actually dropped!! Even if I canceled and rebooked, I could save nearly 100 yuan. Later it dropped another 200-300, which was speechless. There was also another leg where tickets were still discounted close to the holiday.

Day 1 (Qingdao - Xining)

A long-awaited vacation, a long-awaited ride on a green-skin sleeper train, almost two days and one night. Actually, I can barely handle such a long ride anymore, especially since the hard sleeper is not comfortable and I couldn't sleep well at night.

Day 2 (- Xining)

Such a long sleeper train was boring, stuffy, and a waste of time. By the time we arrived at the terminal, I was disheveled. I will never take it again. The weather was nice and quite cool. We stayed near Dashiizi area, where public transportation was very convenient. We stayed at Home Inn Shanglv. Later I found that several hotels had lowered their prices; booking early was a loss. I used to think that at least hotels like Home Inn Shanglv or Atour (Quanji) level had decent hardware, including beds and pillows, for a comfortable stay. But this time, the Home Inn Shanglv was unsatisfactory—either the bedding and pillows or the cleanliness didn't meet the standards I had experienced before.

After a short rest, we went out to stroll along South Guan Street. As it got dark, I noticed that this street was mostly visited by locals for shopping. I bought Zhenming yogurt, which was super delicious—it tasted and had the texture of what I had as a child. I also bought boiled milk (pasteurized), which could be drunk directly—actually frozen, quite rich and fragrant. Then I bought Xinjiang naan bread, with a recipe different from any I had before; the freshly baked ones were the best. Also, Muhammed's sweet fermented grains (tianpei), made from highland barley and oats, were good and could be bought by weight. At Shadiye, I had noodles in pieces (mianpian) and 'pao zhang' (a type of noodle dish), which actually resembled braised noodles—pretty good, and the beef brisket was tender. The free tea had a unique flavor, and the soup was quite tasty.

Day 3 (Xining)

I didn't sleep well—not sure if it was due to the bedding/pillows or altitude sickness. I pre-booked a 2-8 person small-group one-day tour of Chaka Salt Lake and Qinghai Lake on Ctrip, 169 yuan/person, and we ended up with six people. They contacted us the day before. The driver, Master Ma, arrived on time at 6 AM. He was conscientious, drove fast and steadily, arranged the itinerary well, and had pleasant conversations—very satisfied. We headed west all the way with commentary along the route. Xining is at 2,300m elevation, while Chaka and Qinghai Lake are over 3,000m, with the highest point on the road at 3,800m, so altitude sickness could occur. We took Rhodiola rosea in advance and made some preparations. Actually, in Xining, we felt a bit breathless when walking fast, had a dizzy and bloated head, and at higher elevations experienced some chest tightness. But these gradually eased and we adapted. That day was a rare good weather day—cloudless, clear blue sky, good road conditions, and fantastic roadside scenery. However, the sunlight was strong and the air was very dry. We used all kinds of sun protection, and also had to watch out for severe chapped lips and a very dry nose (to the point of bleeding); antibiotic ointment could be applied. The temperature was also tricky: mornings, evenings, or rainy days were very cold, requiring a windbreaker or down jacket.

Around noon, we arrived at Chaka Salt Lake 'Sky Mirror'. The entrance ticket was 60 yuan, but included in the group tour. The small train + electric cart + shoe covers + salt cost 108 yuan. Taking the small train inside was necessary—it was sunny, a bit far, and the salt path was difficult to walk. The car near the front of the small train smelled of diesel/gasoline. You could also choose to go by boat. Sunny and windless—the weather was too kind. The lake water was emerald green, with mountain reflections, giving a great photo vibe—it was beautiful, and any random shot could be a desktop wallpaper. We brought enough dry food for the day, but actually the scenic area had good facilities—plenty of restaurants and restrooms. Salt ice cream was 15 yuan, delicious, with a rich milky taste. Master Ma explained the tour route in detail in advance, so we didn't waste time or energy.

In the afternoon we went to Qinghai Lake, a deep blue—the colors were even more beautiful than in the morning—great photos. Entrance ticket was 90 yuan, a bit expensive. Both Chaka and Qinghai Lake offer free admission for those over 60. We returned to the city around 7:30 PM, two hours earlier than usual, and had a casual meal. By the way, Xining's yogurt is really good. There aren't many local fruits, but the pomelo bought at Beijing Hualian Supermarket was tasty and affordable.

Day 4 (Xining - Zhangye)

Still didn't sleep well. Breakfast was provided. There was a self-service washer-dryer combo, very convenient. We hailed a taxi on the street, 90 yuan, via expressway to Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er Temple). It took only 20 minutes—super fast. Entrance was 70 yuan, half price for ages 60-70, free for 70+. This policy applied for most places after that. It was quite grand and exquisite. For scenic spots with historical and cultural depth, it's really advisable to hire a guide. We saw very cute cats.

After exiting, we went downhill along a slightly shabby small street to the bus terminal. There was also a midibus u68 heading to the city center, 8 yuan, about an hour. We got off at Shier Zhong (No.12 Middle School) and went to the Provincial Museum, which required reservation via WeChat official account. It was pretty good for learning about history and culture.

Then we went to Yixin for hand-grabbed lamb (shouzhuayangrou), 98 yuan/jin (500g). You could choose your own cuts; we picked ribs and lamb shank—good. Vegetables were really expensive. Finally, we went to the Qinghai Plateau Wildlife Zoo, which has pandas—national treasures—a must-visit. Many buses were convenient, and taxi was not expensive. Combo ticket 50 yuan, free for 60+, plus 25 yuan for the shuttle. The place was huge, like a very large park, suitable for spending half a day on a warm sunny afternoon. We saw pandas Shuangxin and Yuanman, both sleeping—I really wanted to hug them. There was also one active panda that we missed. Then we went to the Feline House, which had wildcats of the desert (desert cat?), super beautiful and cute. The Tibetan fox didn't come out. There were also Pallas's cats, looking silly. On the other side were lynxes and snow leopards, all lazy in the nice afternoon sun. I wanted to pet all the big cats and small cats. Due to time constraints, we didn't see the rest.

We took a train to Zhangye West Station, 2.5 hours. We stayed at Home Inn Yiju, located in a fairly central area. The city wasn't large. There was a laundry room, but bring your own detergent. Elevation: 1,500m, basically no discomfort.

Day 5 (Zhangye)

Slept so-so. Breakfast provided. But it was rare not to have to get up early; we slept in. We strolled to the Giant Buddha Temple (Dafo Si). Online ticket 38 yuan. The Reclining Buddha was indeed spectacular. Then we visited the nearby Zhangye City Museum—no reservation needed, nice and worth a visit. Finally, we went to Xinle Supermarket in Xinhui Shopping Mall. For lunch, we had hand-grabbed lamb at Pengxin, with a group-buy deal—pretty good.

In the afternoon, we pre-booked a 1-6 person small-group sunset half-day tour of the Rainbow Danxia, 63 yuan/person. We changed the departure to 1 PM, and actually it was just our family, equivalent to a private tour. Master An was very experienced, drove steadily, and introduced a lot. It took less than an hour to reach the scenic area. Combined ticket (entrance + shuttle) was 93 yuan, half price 66, and for 70+ just the shuttle 38 yuan. At previous attractions, because we had staggered times, there weren't many people, but at Danxia it was bustling. The scenic area was well-planned: shuttle buses ran smoothly, the route was logical, and the scenery was indeed stunning and beautiful—pity it was overcast, not raining but no sun. Four viewing platforms took about 2-3 hours. No sunset, so we returned early.

Day 6 (Zhangye - Dunhuang)

Slept so-so. For breakfast, we went to Dongji Beef Small Rice (niurou xiaofan), which was quite good. We had arranged a private car half-day trip to Mati Temple (Horse Hoof Temple), 200 yuan. The journey took one hour. Roads in and around the northwest cities were very good, with nice greenery and cleanliness. I thought the temperature would be slightly higher, but at Mati Temple it was drizzly, overcast, and very cold. Online ticket 67 yuan, half price 37. Few people. Master An drove us inside. First we went to the Thirty-three Heaven Caves. We had to climb a bit, and got breathless. From halfway up, the autumn scenery was enchanting with layers of colorful forests. Climbing into the caves, the Buddha statues were mostly in Tibetan Buddhist style, with several levels, very steep—comparable to the Hanging Temple. Since photography or video with lights was not allowed inside the caves, the impressions weren't very deep. It would be wise to buy a picture book or something. Then we went to the Gesar King Hall. The natural scenery along the road was comparable to the alpine meadows of Shangri-La, or even like New Zealand. Finally, we visited the Thousand Buddha Caves, which were in Han Chinese Buddhist style. The visit took about 2-3 hours.

Returned to the city at 12 PM, had Agan Guokui (a type of crispy flatbread) at Xinhui Shopping Mall—best when freshly baked. Then went to Xinle Supermarket for shopping. The basement level had a variety of snacks. Xiaoying Apricot Tea (xingpi cha) was super delicious, freshly brewed and very thick. The egg-milk-fermented rice wine (jidan niunai laozao) was also good. Oil cake (yougao) was average. After eating and drinking our fill, we headed to the airport. Originally I wanted to take a sleeper train to Dunhuang, but due to railway operation diagram adjustments, it was delayed, so we switched to a flight. Good thing we changed—sleeper trains are too uncomfortable. The flight was also cheap. The same for Dunhuang to Lanzhou later. Zhangye Ganzhou Airport is not big; taxi 60 yuan, about half an hour. I noticed that in Zhangye and Dunhuang, online ride-hailing services are all taxis, hardly any private cars—quite standardized, with cheap fares. Also, this time I found that afternoon flights never had delays.

After arriving at Dunhuang Mogaoku Airport, there was a shuttle bus, 10 yuan/person, but later I heard it was contracted to a tourism company, only picking up (not dropping off), and you had to wait for later flights, so taking a taxi was better. However, it did drop us at the entrance of the hotel's alley, about half an hour. We stayed at IU Hotel, the first time—unexpectedly satisfied in every aspect. We were very hungry. The night market had a lot of food, couldn't decide, so we ended up eating instant noodles and dry snacks—from Yangji, the jujube filling was the best, good value for money. Also went to Huadong Supermarket for shopping.

Day 7 (Dunhuang)

Finally had a good sleep. Got up early to wash clothes. The rooftop was huge, with a starry sky. I used the washing machine in the dark (it required payment). Pre-booked a 4-8 person group tour of Yulin Grottoes, but because they couldn't fill the group, we switched to a 15-person tour, and part of the fee was refunded. First we went to Western Jin Tombs, entrance 40 yuan, half price for 60+ 20 yuan, 70+ 10 yuan, plus 5 yuan for commentary. Although small, they had a lot of history, and the commentary was good. Then we went to Suoyang City (Locked Yang City), but only ruins remained, so we didn't enter. On the road, there was a specialty store with reasonable prices and many free samples; we bought a melon. We brought our own dry food, but still tasted camel meat in Suoyang town.

In the afternoon, we went to Yulin Grottoes. The driver, Master Wei, was very dutiful, explaining all the attractions and route arrangements thoroughly. We reserved via WeChat official account in advance; entrance 40 yuan, half price 20. At the site, we bought tickets for special caves (teku), cave 25 cost 200 yuan. There weren't many people. We queued and were led by a guide. We were lucky to hear the guide's teacher give the commentary—truly extraordinary, citing various stories effortlessly, vividly and freely. The young lady explaining the special cave was also obviously passionate about Dunhuang grottoes.

The group tour provided snacks and stamps—thoughtful. There were also some small scenic stops along the way. Some landscapes could be photographed directly as masterpieces. Indeed, autumn is the perfect season for the northwest.

Day 8 (Dunhuang - Lanzhou)

Went out early looking for breakfast places, but found very few; finally had beef noodle soup. Took a taxi to Mogao Grottoes, about 20 minutes, very crowded. Reserved in advance via official account: ticket 238 yuan, half price 148, 70+ 20. Followed the process: first two short films, then bus into the site—orderly. I felt that in these three northwest cities, the roads were well-developed, streets were clean, and the tourism market was standardized—good experience and impression. Also queued for guided tour. Viewing on your own just sees the hustle; without the guide, you wouldn't know the origins of the caves and the value of the murals and statues. The commentary was excellent. The weather was also good. It indeed takes half a day to visit. Regrettably, we didn't have time to visit the exhibition hall.

Back in the city, we originally wanted to eat at Jingyuan Ga Liu lamb, but it was temporarily closed—no luck. Went to Yiwang Shopping Mall supermarket for shopping, then to the night market for Wei Ji, with a group-buy deal. We had donkey meat, yellow noodles, braised lamb with flatbread (huyang men bing), etc., generous portions. Taste was okay, but some were pre-made dishes and had a taste of preservatives. Then we went to Yangji Dry Goods to pack some jujube flatbreads; they could also be sent via SF Express. Then we visited the museum, which also required reservation via official account—even if late, on-site reservation was fine. For souvenirs, I heard it was enough to buy from small shops in the night market—wide variety and cheap.

Took a taxi to the airport. Arrived at Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport. There was a intercity train to Lanzhou Station and West Station, and also a bus to Lanzhou Station, 30 yuan/person, one hour. We stayed at Home Inn Shanglv, but cleanliness was unsatisfactory. They provided a meal voucher for a nearby beef noodle shop.

Day 9 (Lanzhou - Shanghai)

In the morning we walked to Wuquan Morning Market, about 40 minutes. The weather was nice, and walking wasn't tiring. The morning market was bustling and lively. The highlight was the hand-grabbed lamb recommended by locals—the shop was called Jinkang, 48 yuan/jin, you could choose cuts. First we picked a jin of ribs and ate it on the street. Freshly cooked, it was so tender, fragrant, and delicious. We immediately added a lamb leg and a lamb neck. It seemed we hadn't seen lamb neck meat much in previous places, and it was always 98 yuan/jin elsewhere. We couldn't finish it, so we took it away, haha. Locals and tourists were buying, and they also offered vacuum packaging. Later at home, I added white radish, salt, and water, simmered for half an hour, and it was still fragrant and tender, with a rich clear broth and well-seasoned radish. Continued shopping: bought Qinghai yogurt, zenggao (steamed rice cake), and rose pastry—this pastry was both sweet and salty with a strong spice flavor, not to my taste.

At noon, we took the intercity train from Lanzhou Station to the airport, 20 yuan, one hour. Spring Airlines' planes are efficient—arrived half an hour early. The only downside: Pudong Airport is huge, from landing to boarding the subway took exactly one hour, and then another two hours to get home...

All in all, it was a very pleasant trip. Total cost about 12,000 yuan for three people. However, after returning, I discovered that the insurance I bought before departure only covered me for one day...