Embracing the Great Northwest, A Thousand Years in an Instant — 2024 Family Trip along the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop

During the 2024 Chinese New Year holiday, I took my wife and child on a trip to Zhangzhou and Quanzhou in Fujian. It was joyful and everyone was happy, but traveling during the holidays meant crowds everywhere, and we didn't have as much fun as I had hoped. That didn't meet my expectations, so I started thinking about choosing another place this year to really experience the beauty of our country. Fujian was the south, so... where would the north be?

(A small chestnut wearing a flower in Quanzhou Shaolin Temple, Fujian)

In early April, I discussed it with my wife. She suggested Tibet, and I agreed. Before I met my wife, I rarely traveled far because I was always busy with work and thought there would be time later. Also, I was too lazy to make plans and preparations. Actually, you can always make time for work; if you don't seize the moment, you'll keep losing it. And when you actually start preparing, though tiring, it brings joy from within, especially when traveling with the family. I take care of everything, and the 'tiredness' of contributing to the family actually fills my heart with happiness. But various signs around us kept hinting that we should go to the Great Northwest, to Qinghai and Gansu. So I discussed it with my wife again. She had been on the Qinghai-Gansu loop before, but that was many years ago. She felt it would be suitable to go again. In the end, we settled on the destination: the Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop. My parents-in-law would join us, and the whole family prepared for this journey.

In mid-April, I started working on the travel itinerary. It was really painful—with elderly and children, I had to consider everything. But I thought that if the itinerary was thorough, we would have more fun and reduce many problems during the trip, so it was worth it.

First, I researched online, mainly on Ctrip, Mafengwo, and some scattered travel blogs on other sites. But I had to be careful to identify marketing posts and random nonsense. The research helped me clarify the specific places I wanted to visit. Then, following the principle of not backtracking or backtracking as little as possible, I planned the route on Amap. Finally, I noted important precautions, which were crucial. Each scenic spot and the roads there required attention (I'll explain them one by one in the main text). Missing or misunderstanding things could greatly affect the mood. Also, to improve efficiency and calculate costs, I included travel time, time at each spot, meal and accommodation points, ticket prices, etc., in the itinerary.

After the itinerary was done, it was time to prepare supplies. I categorized them for reference (only suitable for our family):

1. Documents: ID cards, driver's license.

2. Clothing: thermal suits, thick jackets, down jackets,冲锋衣 (outdoor jackets), sweaters, short-sleeve shirts, comfortable pants, shoes, hats, pajamas, socks, shawls, etc.

3. Sunscreen and skincare: sunscreen lotion, lip balm, hand cream, sun hat, sunglasses, etc.

4. Medicines: anti-diarrhea, painkillers (ibuprofen), cold medicine, fever reducers, anti-inflammatory, gastrointestinal medicine, Band-Aids, motion sickness pills, blood pressure medicine, cooling oil, essential balm, iodine, cotton swabs, medical cotton, small bandages, first aid kit, etc.

5. Food: candies, cookies, snacks, tea, my mom's super spicy salted fish and pickled vegetables.

6. Electronics: phones, camera, power bank, car charger, data cables (with heads) (the rental car had USB ports, so the car charger wasn't used).

7. Toiletries: shampoo, body wash, facial cleanser, towels, toothbrush set, slippers, bath towel, disposable toilet seat covers, razor, dental floss, toothpicks, ear pick, nail clippers, cotton swabs, comb, toilet paper, hair dryer, disposable plastic cups, wet wipes, etc.

8. Other items: umbrella (sun and rain), thermos cup, hat, mask, cash, at least one bank card, scarf, sun-protective clothing, eye mask, U-shaped pillow, earplugs, small bag, mosquito repellent, blanket, humidifier, pen, notebook, plastic bags, slippers, hair ties, hair clips, children's toys, snacks, books, small water bottle, etc.

My wife meticulously prepared everything, and some small items we thought of later are not listed. Next was booking tickets: the sooner we booked the round-trip tickets for the whole family, the better. Also, we needed to book the first night's accommodation after arrival, otherwise we would be clueless at the airport. Since our home was far from Shenzhen Bao'an Airport and the departure time was very early, considering the elderly and child, I added a nearby hotel for the night before. Most airport hotels provide shuttle service every hour, and the front desk would set a suitable wake-up time. As I said: with elderly and children, prepare early.

Then we executed the reverse schedule:

1. On the 5th, depart at 19:00, arrive at Yuehao Apartment after 2h30m.

2. On the 5th, 18:00-19:00, have dinner at home.

3. On the 5th, 14:00-16:00, take a nap.

4. On the 5th, 10:00-14:00, pack odds and ends, confirm important items and documents.

5. On the 4th, 14:00-18:00, pack all luggage.

6. On the 4th, 09:00-12:00, check the list and supplement.

7. On the 2nd-3rd, purchase items according to the list.

It happened to be the Labor Day holiday, so we had plenty of time to prepare, no rush. Everything was ready, all family members were in good health, so we began the long-awaited Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop trip.

May 5th, Day Zero, begins.

After dinner, at 19:30, the whole family took big suitcases and small bags, helping the elderly and the young, and boarded the subway heading to the airport east. We got off at Gushu Station, walked about 1.5km, and arrived at the booked hotel (Yuehao Apartment) at 22:00. This hotel offered great value for a night's sleep. I told the front desk that we had a 7:20 flight the next morning. The front desk warmly said that the shuttle would leave at 5:00 sharp from the hotel entrance, and the hotel would wake us 15 minutes earlier (4:45). Very convenient.

Day Zero ends.

May 6th, Day One, begins.

At 4:30, the child was indeed hard to wake up. By the time my wife and I finished packing, it was already 4:55 (the hotel also called to remind us). My wife scooped up the child, I grabbed the luggage, and we headed to the car. By the time we got on, the other airport-bound guests were already seated. We felt guilty and apologized profusely. Fortunately, it was exactly 5:00, and we thought it would be fine. No one complained. Then the child woke up...

(Arriving at the airport)

At the airport, we exchanged boarding passes, checked luggage, went through security, took the 'little train' to the satellite hall, found the gate, settled my parents-in-law, then my wife and I took the child to buy breakfast—simple Golden Arches. After we ate, we bought some breakfast for my parents-in-law. My mother-in-law ate a little, my father-in-law didn't, and he went to eat instant noodles.

(Ready to board)

Since we woke up so early, we fell asleep on the plane. Before sleeping, I glanced and saw the whole family sleeping. The 3-hour-40-minute flight would pass quickly. An hour after takeoff, the flight attendant served a meal. My father-in-law woke up and ate, but the rest of us didn't. We saved it. Half an hour before landing, through the small window, I could see snow-capped mountains outside. The child rarely sees such scenery, so I woke her up to look, but she seemed more interested in the flight attendant's work.

(Looking down from the plane, snow-capped mountains)

At 10:30, the plane landed and parked, 25 minutes earlier than scheduled. That was good because I had rented a car on Ctrip, giving me plenty of time. We got off, picked up luggage, exited the airport, and arrived at the flagpole in the ground parking lot of Caojiabao Airport (where rental cars are usually picked up). The Ctrip rental guy called and said he was rushing over. I said no rush, drive safely. At 11:10, we got the car, 20 minutes earlier than expected. Two young guys (both younger than me) delivered the car. Except for some scratches on the right headlight cover, everything was fine. Luggage in, people in, we drove off.

(Under the flagpole in Caojiabao Airport ground parking lot, Xining)

First stop: Tar Temple. Caojiabao Airport is not far from Xining city. Under good road conditions, it takes 30-40 minutes. Xining is also close to Tar Temple, just over 30 minutes from the city. At 12:30, we drove to Tar Temple parking lot, got out to rest. Instead of looking for a nearby restaurant, we had the Golden Arches and plane meal as lunch in the car—just a quick bite to relieve hunger. The cold Golden Arches were really not tasty. After lunch, we found there were still two leftover plane meal boxes. Walking to the scenic area, we passed a small artificial path with railings lined with small stalls selling local products and tourist souvenirs. The vendors called out to us, but we only glanced without asking prices or goods.

At the main entrance, we waited a moment while I went to the visitor center to buy tickets and hire a guide. Adult tickets were 70 yuan each; my parents-in-law, over 60, got discounted tickets (half price). A guide approached us; her Mandarin was very standard, so we immediately chose her (she looked a bit older than me). The guide fee was 160 yuan (company mini-program name: Wenfang Guide), for groups of 5 or fewer.

Tar Temple is a Tibetan Buddhist temple, very different from Han Chinese temples. The building areas are not symmetrical; each area or house has its own function. The temple operates without government subsidies, relying on tickets, offerings, donations, scripture copying, souvenirs, etc. Notably, Tar Temple owns a Tibetan medicine hospital located outside the scenic area, next to the parking lot. Tibetan medicine is unfamiliar to Han Chinese; I've only heard of its wonders in media, but I don't know how miraculous it is.

The guide introduced various spots inside Tar Temple. At the entrance, eight white stupas represent the eight great deeds of Shakyamuni. Which eight? The guide didn't elaborate. It didn't matter; I wouldn't remember anyway. Almost all Tibetan Buddhism today belongs to the Gelug sect (Yellow Hat), which is closely tied to Master Tsongkhapa. How close? This temple is the birthplace of Master Tsongkhapa. There are many plaques inscribed by Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong inside. Several Dalai Lamas appointed by the Qing Dynasty performed religious activities here, making the temple extremely sacred and mysterious.

(Inside the main gate of Tar Temple)

(Eight white stupas)

Four places left a deep impression on me: the Great Gold Tile Hall, the Small Gold Tile Hall, the Grand Sutra Hall, and the Longevity Buddha Hall.

The Great Gold Tile Hall is a relatively traditional Tibetan Buddhist building, with interior arrangements similar to what I imagined: curtains, banners, butter lamps, shrines... Many aspects resemble Nepalese temples, but the architecture and interior lean more towards TV dramas. I have always respected Tsongkhapa. Having been to Yonghe Temple in Beijing, where I saw a huge statue of Tsongkhapa, this one didn't seem as majestic, but the pure silver base, gold-plated surface, and inlaid jewels, surrounded by many katas, still felt extremely luxurious in craftsmanship.

On the second floor of the Small Gold Tile Hall, there are many specimens, clearly showing heads of bears, cows, and sheep, along with many unknown or unrecognizable animal specimens. The guide said these were donated by kind people from all over the country and the world, so we should thank them for seeing so many specimens here (looking at the second-floor corridor from the courtyard). The child was a bit scared and wanted me to hold her, burrowing into my arms.

The Grand Sutra Hall is surrounded by shrines, presumably statues of certain Dalai Lamas and Tsongkhapa at various ages. In front of the statues are butter lamps, butter sculptures, and appliqué thangkas, along many donation boxes. My wife led the child to bow before each statue and donated 10 yuan. In the center of the hall are long rows of cushions for monks to chant, debate, and study. Comparable to a comprehensive university, the monks' learning content and scope are very broad: astronomy, geography, architecture, medicine, etc. The guide said that monks with shallow Buddhist affinity might never graduate from here in their lifetime.

The Longevity Buddha Hall is a small courtyard with a Bodhi tree. It's quite simple, giving a back-garden feel. Not particularly special within Tar Temple, but the name sounds auspicious, so bringing my parents-in-law there was also a blessing. Tar Temple places great emphasis on culture. If one simply visits for the scenery and ignores its history and culture, it's a waste.

(Small temple next to the Great Gold Hall in Tar Temple)

(A small chestnut peeking out)

When I was preparing the itinerary, I only learned a little about each spot, not in depth. But after listening to the guide's detailed introduction, I felt I had gained a lot. I also thanked the guide for her effort. I suggest that friends who visit this spot and want a detailed understanding should hire a legitimate professional guide at the visitor center.

(Small square next to the Great Gold Hall)

(A small chestnut turning around with a water bottle on her back in Tar Temple)

At 14:47, we set off for the next spot: Sun Moon Mountain.

After a 2-hour drive, we arrived at Sun Moon Mountain at 16:15. Actually, it should have taken only 1.5 hours. The extra half hour was because we drove slower at Laji Mountain Pass, and the whole family suddenly experienced altitude sickness. First, the child felt dizzy and weak, then my wife and mother-in-law developed dizziness and weakness. After passing Laji Mountain Pass, I parked in front of an unknown herdsman's house to rest. Besides herding, this family also ran a small yurt by the roadside, selling yogurt and beef jerky. Such yurts appeared every few kilometers along this road. The owner was out herding, and the wife stayed home to do business. Probably because it was off-season, the hostess was quite warm, and we chatted a lot. But the whole conversation felt like a commercial script, with many fixed phrases. Actually, it's not strange; they are more like vendors selling products to tourists, with herding as a sideline. After doing it long enough, they develop set phrases. The yogurt was very sour, unlike the sweet, slightly sour ones from supermarkets. This was truly sour. My mother-in-law, who often chews betel nut, found it hard to swallow. We also bought some beef jerky to eat. Both the yogurt (5 yuan per bowl, not large) and the beef jerky (90 yuan per jin) were reasonably priced. Considering the transportation cost to this area, it's understandable. I don't believe they made it themselves.

(My father-in-law outside the yurt)

(Inside the yurt)

(Small chestnut in front of prayer flags)

(My mother-in-law outside the yurt)

There is a viewing platform before the Sun Moon Mountain scenic area. Turning around, the hillside behind has the words "Sun Moon Mountain" written as a guide and advertisement. The scenery here was quite nice; later I thought it was even better than the view inside Sun Moon Mountain. According to local information, adult tickets for Sun Moon Mountain were 30 yuan each, and senior tickets (60-70 years old) were 20 yuan. We should have paid 100 yuan, but we ended up paying 65 and 20 yuan separately. I didn't calculate clearly; maybe there was some discount. Also, I'm not sure why it was charged in two transactions. For senior tickets or free admission for the elderly, they required showing the ID card. After buying tickets, we could drive up, saving a long mountain road. That was very good. The old man at the barrier carefully checked the IDs, but from his squinting eyes, I guessed he was comparing my parents-in-law's birth dates with his own and letting them in if they were older.

After entering, we turned a corner and reached the top—Sun Moon Mountain. There were two hillocks, one on the left and one on the right, quite symmetrical. The left one had many piled stones, while the right one was covered with short grass. Both were similar, each with a pavilion (Sun Pavilion and Moon Pavilion), and the hillocks were almost the same size.

I read online that when Princess Wencheng married and passed this road to Tibet, she stopped here. She took the Sun Moon Mirror, looked at herself, tidied her makeup, and the mirror showed Chang'an city. Probably she was homesick and reluctant to part. Girls often miss home. She sighed and shed tears, and in a daze, she accidentally dropped the mirror (copper mirrors are fragile?), breaking it into two halves. Half was buried in Sun Mountain, half in Moon Mountain. It's a touching story. Actually, Songtsen Gampo was quite generous; he built a huge building for her (the Jokhang Temple, not the Potala Palace). The children of ancient imperial families often couldn't control their own fate. Princess Wencheng's later life was particularly fortunate, which is worth celebrating.

(Overlooking the Sun and Moon Pavilions on Sun Moon Mountain)

(Not very high hillocks)

We didn't have the energy to climb the hilltops, but my father-in-law really liked the natural scenery. He climbed the right hillock and waved to us. He was happy, so we were happy. My child was clearly suffering from altitude sickness. My wife and I kept coaxing her to drink water. She was quite well-behaved or maybe too weak to fuss. She was listless, so we decided to move on.

The road out of Sun Moon Mountain continues forward without needing to turn back. After going downhill, we passed a museum. My parents-in-law went in for a look and said it was just a small courtyard with nothing much to see. A hundred meters ahead, there was a huge boundary marker called the China Geographic Boundary Stone. It seemed about 4 or 5 stories high. In many modern city squares, they place a large stone for stability. Placed elsewhere, this marker might not seem special, but in this highland area, surrounded by yellow mountains, such a tall stone monument was quite interesting. Moreover, the marker, along with the Princess Wencheng statue behind it and Sun Moon Mountain, formed a central axis, making for great photos. The stone was inscribed: "Sun Moon Mountain—the boundary between monsoon and non-monsoon areas, between internal and external drainage areas, between the Loess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, between agricultural and pastoral areas." Good thing the stone was big enough, otherwise it couldn't fit.

(China Geographic Boundary Stone)

(My parents-in-law in front of the boundary stone)

After passing the boundary stone, we continued forward. Next stop: Heima River (Black Horse River).

I drove for a long time, especially along the tourist route by Qinghai Lake. The road conditions were extremely complicated, with construction everywhere, construction teams, big trucks, gravel roads, and gusty winds—it was like a driving test. The scenery along the way was nice. Occasionally, we saw a flock of sheep. On the right, we could glimpse Qinghai Lake; on the left, a small flat area, with mountains in the distance. The setting sun gave a sense of openness. Sometimes we drove 30-40 kilometers without seeing any sign of human life, then suddenly a motorcyclist appeared. I wondered what he was doing and where he was going. Sometimes we saw a car parked on a pasture, in the middle of nowhere. I wondered what the people in the car were doing, not going home for dinner?! Such random thoughts often occur during long drives. The road was straight, traffic was light, and stepping on the gas, the surroundings remained the same for a long time, making my mind wander. But driving is dangerous, especially with my whole family's lives at stake. I couldn't afford any mistakes. Drivers must be careful.

We passed by Erlang Sword Scenic Area but didn't go in. I heard it had poor value for money. I don't know if that's true, but I wasn't willing to risk it. It wasn't in my plan anyway. Fame doesn't always match reputation.

We arrived at Heima River Town at 20:00. In the plateau area, it wasn't dark yet; it gets dark around 20:20. Finally, we reached the first day's accommodation: Qinghai Lake Yunhai Hotel. My wife took my parents-in-law and child to order food at the Yunhai Restaurant next to the hotel. I took everyone's IDs to check in. The hotel front was a small grocery store. The owner was busy inside and came out when he heard someone enter. The little store gave a 1990s village shop vibe. The owner was very warm and immediately responded when I mentioned my reservation. I think we were the only guests that day.

I chose this hotel because of good online reviews. The owner said it had been open for a long time and customers were satisfied. The rooms were behind the store, entered through a small side road (one car width). Our rooms were in Area B. They even had Area A and Area B. Through the monitor, I saw it was spacious: a large gravel lot that could easily park 30 small cars. One row was Area A, the right row was Area B, each row had about 10 rooms. The owner said we could park anywhere, and when checking out tomorrow, just leave the room cards on the table.

I returned to the small restaurant. My wife was unsure what to order. I looked at the menu pictures on the wall and ordered decisively. It was a halal restaurant, so no pork, and even mention it. I had explained this to the family before leaving. I ordered a lamb pot (kang guo yang rou), a tomato and egg dish, a stir-fry, and a green vegetable. That was enough. Actually, the lamb pot was huge (and expensive, nearly 270 yuan). Even as hungry as we were, we couldn't finish it. I also ordered a bottle of Da Yao, a drink popular in Qinghai and Gansu. It tasted like the Dongbao soda I had as a child. When the meal was almost over, the child still had a poor appetite, though she had recovered some energy. My wife and I had to coax her to eat. My parents-in-law went out for a walk; my father-in-law to smoke, my mother-in-law bought some naan bread for tomorrow's dry rations.

After dinner, we drove a few dozen meters and parked in front of the rooms. The rooms were typical simple bungalows, with an extra glass partition in front of the corridor to keep warm. It would probably be very cold at night. Seeing the electric blanket on the bed confirmed my thought. I went to my parents-in-law's room, told them to use the electric blanket if they felt cold, and showed them how to turn it on and off. I also advised them not to take a shower tonight because the temperature difference between day and night was huge, and they might catch a cold.

I left the child with my parents-in-law, and my wife and I went to a nearby gas station to refuel. On the Qinghai-Gansu loop, it's wise to fill up whenever possible. First, fuel is essential; second, there's no need to save this money—it will be used anyway. It was very cold while fueling; indeed, the temperature difference between night and day was huge. We stayed inside the station room, which had thick doors and windows. After filling up, we bought two cases of water—Kunlun Mountain brand. We only drank Kunlun Mountain from then on. Why two cases? Same reason: first, it's essential; when traveling, try to drink bottled water to avoid acclimatization issues; second, the station had a promotion: buy one, get one free. (A few days later, we realized the price was actually the same as usual.)

My wife saw that I had been driving for so long, so she took care of all the child's bedtime preparations, busy until after 11 p.m. Actually, she was also carsick and had altitude sickness. It was really hard on her.

In fact, I was wrong. The room was extremely hot—like being in a huge air fryer. We ended up taking showers anyway, and I slept shirtless all night. The room was hot and dry. Thankfully, I brought a humidifier; otherwise, it would have been hard to fall asleep.

Day One ends.

May 7th, Day Two, begins.

Last night, I told my parents-in-law to wake up early to watch the sunrise. The reason we stayed overnight in Heima River Town was twofold: first, it's on the way to Chaka Salt Lake, avoiding backtracking; second, it's a famous spot for watching the sunrise over Qinghai Lake. In the morning, my wife and I gritted our teeth and got up. Sunrise was around 6:20, and it was almost 6. We saw the child sleeping soundly and didn't want to wake her (she has a terrible temper when woken). We had to ask my parents-in-law for help. My father-in-law flatly refused to get up, saying that was for young romantics. My mother-in-law said she was still too tired and dizzy from yesterday, but for us, she gritted her teeth and came to our room to watch the child so we could go. We didn't stand on ceremony, thanked her, and immediately drove to Panchen Laze to watch the sunrise.

It was cold, truly cold. I checked my phone: 2°C. We could see our breath. The car was even colder. My wife and I were wearing quite a bit, but the morning chill seemed to add a freezing BUF, making our thighs tremble. We left in a hurry without taking the thermos; only bottled water in the car. I took a sip—freezing. My wife definitely couldn't handle it. So I put two bottles of water against my innermost clothing, hoping to warm them a bit. My chest bulged.

It was a very short drive, only 6 minutes including turning around and parking. That's another reason I chose Yunhai Hotel—it's close and convenient. We got out, crossed the road, and saw a huge advertising frame with artistic characters: "Qinghai Lake · Heima River."

After getting out, my wife rushed towards the ticket booth. Although she had recovered a lot overnight, I was still worried about her altitude sickness. I shouted at her not to run, take it slow. After crossing the road, there was a small downhill slope; she almost fell but steadied herself. She slowed down a bit but still hurried to buy tickets, shouting for me to go directly to the shuttle bus. Two shuttle bus tickets cost 60 yuan total. We got on, along with 6-7 young people. Everyone was cold, especially a few young women shivering. The guys weren't shivering much, but that's all. I took out the water for my wife to drink, and took the time to take selfies with my phone.

(Panchen Laze—Heima River Town billboard)

(People watching sunrise)

(Mani stones by Qinghai Lake)

(My wife and the sunrise in the frame)

Qinghai Lake was truly beautiful. The sky was slightly bright. The lake water was blown to the shore by the wind, making a swishing sound. Some birds, like seagulls, saw us and flew closer. The lake was blue, and behind it stretched a large snow-capped mountain range (maybe Amne Machin?). The local management clearly put some thought into it, installing some photo props for young artists, a large prayer flag, and a white pagoda. Importantly, they played light music, instantly creating an atmosphere.

The sky gradually brightened. On the lake's horizon, a yolk-like sun appeared, seeming to melt into the lake, shivering with cold. In just a minute or two, the yolk emerged more, golden ripples on the water—a beautiful sight. I don't often see such scenery, and I couldn't help admiring nature's beauty. My wife and I took many photos. She even video-called her mother, who was also very happy to see us.

After watching the sunrise, it was already past 7. We drove back to the hotel. My parents-in-law were up, but the child was still asleep. My mother-in-law and I went to the opposite side for breakfast. My father-in-law came later. My wife stayed in the room to dress and wash the child. Breakfast was expensive: a bowl of noodles was 25-30 yuan. Towns that thrive on tourism are naturally pricier. I brought some eggs for my wife. The breakfast nearly cost 100 yuan.

(Breakfast: very ordinary but very expensive beef noodle soup)

After eating and packing, we headed to the next stop: Chaka Salt Lake.

The scenery along the way took on a different flavor. We crossed mountains, saw snow-capped peaks, entered snowy areas with ice within reach, then descended onto straight roads under a bright sun, with temperatures gradually rising. My parents-in-law loved the natural scenery and kept marveling at the difficulty faced by the builders who managed to construct such good roads in this environment. Perhaps those builders spent their entire lives rooted here. The Chinese people are ambitious, hardworking, and brave, watering miracle after miracle with their sweat. My respects to them.

(Photo from inside the car)

As we approached Chaka Salt Lake, there were more trucks on the road, but fortunately not too dense; we could always overtake. Suddenly, a worker signaled us to turn left. That turn led directly to the entrance of Chaka Salt Lake Sky Number One. We parked, used the restroom, took photos at the entrance, and left. This is a newly developed area, not in my original plan. Some online say it's good, some say it's not. I wasn't going anyway. If you're like us and plan to go to the old scenic area, this is an excellent place to park and use the restroom. It's close to the highway, has plenty of parking, few people, and clean restrooms. Plus, the old area doesn't have such convenient parking and restrooms, and this spot is very close to the old area.

(Chaka Sky Number One)

After driving about ten minutes, we finally reached the old Chaka Salt Lake scenic area—Sky Mirror. The signage here was extremely poor; it wasn't clear where to park. Relying on my keen intuition, I parked correctly. We walked a short distance to the entrance. The scenic area didn't charge admission anymore (it's been around for many years), but the little train inside still cost money: 138 yuan per person for the train in and boat out, with a short electric cart transfer in between. A bit expensive; I think 100 yuan per person would be fair. There was also a train-only round trip for 108 yuan per person, but I like taking the boat.

After entering, we walked a bit and could board the little train. There were two types: enclosed cars similar to those in Hayao Miyazaki's animation, and open cars to fully experience the scenery, regardless of UV rays. Naturally, we wanted the open car, but there was no indication at the station; it was random. We first entered the middle platform and saw an enclosed car. We asked the staff, and they said to wait at the right platform. So we went through the passage to the other side. This path had stairs with no elevators, and my mother-in-law has trouble with stairs; it was very hard on her. At that point, our mood dipped a bit.

After waiting ten minutes, we finally got on the train. Since I work in rail transportation, many things were obvious to me. This project was quite simple, but considering the environment, it was acceptable. The key is good operation and service; you can't be complacent just because you have a monopoly.

The little train wasn't crowded—less than a third full. Off-season has its advantages. The speed was slow, maybe 10-20 km/h, quite bumpy, and noisy despite the open space. The signaling system seemed poor. At the last stretch, there seemed to be a level crossing, and the train braked suddenly at a signal light—maybe the driver was distracted. Along the way, there were many sculptures. The ground was white with salt, but not as white as I expected. The weather was good today, but the whiteness was far from the photos online. Indeed, photography is a technical skill. The child was happy. My parents-in-law also recovered their mood, after all, seeing so much salt is rare. I thought it was okay because I had been to the salt lake next to the Erta Ale volcano in Ethiopia, which was more pristine and beautiful.

(Open little train)

(Sculptures beside the little train)

(Four carriages; the first empty, the second only our family)

(Sculptures along the little train route)

(Small chestnut posing)

We brought our own disposable shoe covers instead of renting the scenic area's covers. First, we felt the rental ones weren't clean; second, the scenic area's were red, while ours were transparent, which looks better in photos; third, we had prepared them, saving rental time. In fact, the disposable covers couldn't hold up; after one circuit, they leaked. Both of my child's feet, one of my mother-in-law's, one of my father-in-law's, both of my wife's, and one of my feet were soaked with salt water. Fortunately, the sun was strong and the wind was high; we could take off our shoes, dry them in the sun and wind, and manage. But we had to rinse our feet with fresh water; salt can damage skin when dry.

The child was initially afraid to step into the salt lake, thinking she would sink and disappear. She also worried about us and forbade us from going. But the brine only covered our ankles, and for the child, it was below the knees. After we coaxed and praised her, she bravely took her first step, then started frolicking. Sometimes I think: we are also controlled by unknown fears and fanciful worries, but once we take that first step, we run wild.

(Small chestnut not posing)

My parents-in-law tasted the brine; it was indeed very salty. They started sighing about the salt miners who worked here, marveling at their hardships. Everyone in life has their struggles; we are all busy making a living, working hard. Only occasionally do we stop and look around to realize that others are also struggling.

(My parents-in-law on the boat)

The salt lake had many props that young artists like: square frames, small steps, small sailboats, etc. My wife was busy taking photos of the child. I don't like taking photos myself, so I sat in the rest area to enjoy the scenery. Two people dressed like professional travel photographers were nearby. I thought it would be a pity not to take some photos of my wife in such a beautiful place. So I tried to talk to them. Indeed, they were photographers for tourists: 20 yuan per photo, minimum 5 photos, digital files without retouching. I agreed and asked them to take photos of my wife and child, as many as my wife wanted. I pointed to my wife not far away and shouted, "Dear, he's a professional photographer. I hired him to take photos of you!" My wife was very happy and smiled at me. I was happy too.

(That touch of red)

After enjoying the scenery of Chaka Salt Lake, our family walked about 1km to the boat boarding area. We walked slower with the child. Some tourists were already on the boat. We jogged a bit and boarded. The boat was ordinary, like a small speedboat at the seaside. Everyone wore life jackets. It sped quickly, and in no time, we were near the shore. There were floating buoys in the water serving as guides, arranged in two rows, moving left and right with the water depth. If the boat went outside, it would run aground. As I said, I love taking boats—fast or slow, bobbing up and down, swaying, it's very relaxing.

(Small chestnut walking fast)

After landing, a shuttle bus arrived, and we got on. Soon we were back at the little train area, then walked 1km out of the scenic area. Notably, the tickets could be exchanged for salt at a cultural and creative shop inside: each ticket for one bag of salt (non-iodized). My mother-in-law was very happy—Chinese aunties love getting free little gifts after a trip.

After leaving Chaka Salt Lake, a short drive brought us to Chaka Town. There were many restaurants. We randomly chose a larger one (Zhanfu Beef Noodle Restaurant) for a simple meal: three rice bowls with toppings and a serving of lamb soup, totaling 126 yuan. After eating, we set off for the next stop: Water Yadan (Ussut).

We departed at 15:30. I checked the navigation: 5.5 hours, 470km. Gritting my teeth, I hit the Jingla Line.

The scenery along the road was different again. We saw endless flat roads, barren soil mounds. Heading west, constantly climbing slopes, over one hill and onto the next. The straight roads had almost no curves on the map. Sometimes we passed a lake, sparkling; sometimes a river in dry season with cracked riverbed; sometimes small dust devils—not full-blown sandstorms, but still giving a desolate feeling. No one around, driving on a wilderness road, making one want to escape.

(Photo from inside the car)

(Small sandstorm)

(Dust devil in the wilderness—can you spot it?)

We passed a junction with a sign saying "Alien Ruins." I had seen this online: a small hill with a cave containing a dozen iron pipes, discovered around 2016. Initially thought non-human, later found to be fossilized trees. Anyway, I wasn't interested and didn't have time. Ignored.

We passed the most beautiful road, U315, and saw a photographer taking wedding photos for a couple. I didn't find it romantic. The photos might look good, or they might have captured a special moment with great effort, but I just thought it was foolish. There are many beautiful sceneries. Taking wedding photos in a place where so many young artists have already taken photos isn't very interesting. There weren't many cars on this road, but they drove fast. They parked on the side and then ran to the middle of the road to take photos?! Putting themselves in danger instead of safety—what else is that but stupidity? Actually, before the U315 most beautiful road photo spot, there were many U-shaped undulating roads. After a few glances, they become boring. My mother-in-law, wife, and child slept. My father-in-law stayed awake, worried about my driving. I chatted intermittently with him.

After entering the Xisha Line, we drove for over an hour. When approaching the intersection of G315 and G215, we saw lights of houses. It was nearly 20:30, and it was about to get dark. Many big trucks were parked on the roadside. I stopped in front of a small restaurant (seemed to be called Yadan Gourmet City). The whole family went in and ordered: a large plate chicken, a stir-fried green vegetable, and a tomato and egg dish. While waiting, I asked the owner where the restroom was. He said behind the restaurant—exit the restaurant, turn right into a small path, and it's behind. Indeed, there was a pit latrine. Indescribable, unforgettable. I quickly did my business and returned.

Occasionally, a truck driver would come in, order a simple fried noodles, eat, and leave. Some just looked around, dropped off personal items, and brushed their teeth at the door. I'm not sure if the chicken for the large plate chicken was freshly slaughtered, but it took a long time to prepare. The other two dishes came first, so the child could eat. Finally, the large plate chicken arrived—huge portions. Even as hungry as we were, we couldn't finish it. So far, I've noticed that meals in Qinghai are enormous and generous, but also expensive. The large plate chicken was about 128 yuan. The internet was poor; my phone couldn't connect. My mother-in-law paid with cash, and the next day, my wife transferred the meal money to her via WeChat. So, always carry some cash when traveling, just in case.

After eating, it was completely dark. We drove a short distance and saw a Sinopec station. We refueled immediately. When I stopped at the pump, no staff was around. I searched and found two young guys with dyed hair, wearing work uniforms. They spoke good Mandarin, clearly and articulately. They asked where we were going. I said Water Yadan. They asked if we were still going to play so late. I said we were staying there; with elderly and children, it's better to stay at the scenic spot for convenience the next day. They said I did the right thing, which made me happy.

After refueling, we continued driving. Since we turned from Xiaode Expressway to Xisha Line, it had been a two-way single-lane road. Now driving at night, big trucks appeared occasionally, and there were no streetlights. My father-in-law was very worried, repeatedly telling me to be careful, that I had been driving for a long time and was tired, that visibility was poor, so drive slowly, no rush, we'd just shower and sleep when we arrived... I was extremely cautious because I rarely drive at night, and I was indeed a bit tired. I perked up, glanced at the navigation—less than 40 minutes to go. Gritting my teeth, I pushed on.

We arrived at Water Yadan at 22:30. Since the hotel was inside the scenic area, we first parked at the entrance. My wife and I went to the lobby to check in. The front desk clerk on duty was resting in a small room (off-season, few guests, so understandable). The security guard called her out. She came, registered our names, ID numbers, license plate, car owner info, etc. (handwritten). Then we paid the entrance fee and tomorrow's shuttle bus fee, totaling 360 yuan.

After that, we greeted the security guard (who had been beside us the whole time, holding a small folder). He asked us to register the license plate again for free parking, so we could drive out directly tomorrow. I registered again, and finally the scenic area gate opened. We drove in about 10 meters to another hotel front desk, a separate building. We got out, went in, and registered again with a quick-speaking young man. Finally, we got the room key. It was already 23:10.

Opposite the front desk was our hotel for the night—Ussut Yadan Grand Hotel, a round-shaped building. We parked in the spaces next to the hotel entrance. As soon as I parked, I suddenly felt something strange in my nose. I lowered my head and saw a drip of blood. I quickly grabbed a tissue to plug it. The dryness was terrible.

Back in the room, my wife saw that I had been driving for so long, so she took care of the child's bath and tidying up entirely on her own, not bothering me. I took a quick shower and fell asleep. Around 2 a.m., I woke up because of the extreme dryness. I drank a glass of water, walked to the window, and pulled open the curtain. Wow, a starry sky, very bright. Living in the city for a long time, it's rare to see such a beautiful scene. The star-filled night sky didn't seem dark; it was even a bit bright. It reminded me of Ethiopia, a poor country with unstable electricity. Often, power would go out at midnight, and then you could see a sky full of stars, absolutely stunning. No human technology can compare. Nature is truly beautiful. Going further back, the last time I saw such a bright starry sky was in childhood summer nights. I turned to wake my wife, but she and the child were sleeping soundly. I thought about the long journey ahead the next day and decided not to wake her. Let them rest well; they might see it in their dreams.

Day Two ends.

May 8th, Day Three, begins.

We woke up naturally, the fatigue from the previous day completely gone. When we got up, we heard my parents-in-law already ready. So we quickly got the child ready and let her grandparents take her to the buffet breakfast. Then we started to get ourselves ready.

(Night of Yadan—small chestnut after breakfast)

The hotel included a buffet breakfast, served in another building next to the hotel—Yadan Night (Ya Dan Zhi Ye). Unlike standard buffets, it was a set menu per person: eggs, steamed buns, pickled vegetables, fruit, etc. Nothing amazing, but it felt clean. When my wife and I came to eat, my parents-in-law had already finished. My father-in-law went out to smoke; my mother-in-law was coaxing the child to eat. So we ate quickly. After breakfast, we walked about 30 meters to the shuttle bus stop, boarded, and headed to the scenic area.

The shuttle bus fee was included with the entrance fee. As we drove, we saw not only the hotel but also small "yurts" and RVs. I had checked these accommodations; they cost 300-400 yuan more than regular hotel rooms. Since we were only staying one night, I didn't book them. The bus continued, and we saw Yadan landforms: clusters of weathered hillocks with small peaks or flat tops, wide middles, and narrow bottoms, scattered randomly, barren. The shuttle bus had about 6 stops. On the way in, it didn't stop, taking us directly to the end; on the return, it stopped at each stop.

After the first stop, we saw small pools of water. Several pools connected into a larger area, framed by irregular hillocks. You couldn't see the whole thing without a drone, but that sense of seeing a part while being blocked was quintessentially Chinese aesthetics. Subtle and coy is most charming. In my eyes, it was like a beautiful lady from the Western Regions suddenly appearing in the wild wilderness, only to disappear from view when you try to admire her, teasing you.

(Water Yadan photo)

The shuttle bus arrived at the end. We got off and saw a long line of camels waiting for tourists, and a place renting off-road vehicles for the sand. The camel drivers and vehicle operators all rushed to recommend their services. We weren't interested, and the prices were outrageous, so we didn't patronize them. Down the slope, there was a two-story steel structure building. The first floor provided rest and food (the shop owners and staff were all lazy), the second floor was open for tourists to take photos. We went up to the second floor.

(Small chestnut wildly swinging grandma's scarf, along with herself)

(My wife taking photos: small chestnut gives a front view; when I take photos, she basically gives me this angle?)

(Water Yadan photo)

(Small chestnut lifting a stone)

There were incredibly many mosquitoes here, so many that you could almost breathe them in. But they didn't bite. A restaurant owner downstairs said they were water mosquitoes that don't bite (because she talked to us and wasn't lazy, my wife bought an ice cream for the child from her). I don't know, but it was too natural, and the experience wasn't great.

My parents-in-law, wife, and child were all taking photos. I walked to the lake. There were fish in the lake, some quite large, and many water plants. Amazing—so much water in the desert wilderness, with fish and plants. Environmental protection is good here. My family followed me to the lakeside. My father-in-law loved the natural scenery; he doesn't like taking photos either, but I saw him taking many, so he must have liked it. I asked him if he would like to stay here forever. He said no, only for tourism. I thought life here must be very hard.

(Opposite the road at Water Yadan—fat guy in the desert)

(My wife by the desert)

(Small chestnut in the wilderness)

After enjoying the scenery, we boarded the return shuttle bus. On the bus, I asked the driver if he was a local. He said no, he was from Dunhuang, Gansu. He only works here from April to October. I asked why he doesn't work after October. He said after October, the place freezes, and there are no tourists. I suddenly thought about the ticket and accommodation prices; no wonder they were relatively cheap.

We returned to the hotel around 13:00. We picked up our luggage and set off for the next spot: Dachaidan Emerald Lake.

When exiting the scenic area, the gate guard asked me to scan a code. I said I was staying inside and had registered yesterday. He said he needed to confirm and made several calls, but no one answered. He was embarrassed, sitting awkwardly, and kept trying. Finally, someone answered and confirmed. But then he couldn't remotely control the barrier on my lane. He motioned for me to back up and use the adjacent lane. I smiled and did so.

We drove along G315 (the same road we came on yesterday) and reached the intersection with G215. We decided to eat first. Keeping it simple, based on yesterday's experience, the roadside was dusty, so I drove a bit inward. I found a Sichuan-Hunan restaurant. I ordered a chili stir-fry with pork, a green vegetable, and some beef stir-fry (not spicy for the child). I wanted a drink, so I went to the counter, but the owner was busy playing Honor of Kings on his phone and ignored me. I gave up and that was lunch.

After eating, it was 14:30. I stepped on the gas and drove off.

The scenery changed again. On the straight road, we were the only car. Probably within 10km ahead and behind, there was only our family. The wind outside was strong, blowing sand across the road, like a thin yellow veil covering the quiet road, drifting freely. As we drove, there was a sign for Nanbaxian (South Eight Immortals). When I prepared the itinerary, I looked into it: eight female workers died here during construction. Their lives and the youth of countless builders brought development to this area, enabling me to travel here with my family today. My respects to the predecessors. But this spot wasn't in our plan, so we just passed by, silently remembering them.

The road turned, and we were on another straight stretch. We drove and drove; the map showed we were approaching the highway. There was a service area called Yuqia (this name impressed me a lot—there's a mine here, and it sounds like 'fish caught a fish bone'). I planned to rest there. Just before entering the highway, there was a checkpoint. The inspector signaled us to stop, asked us to open the trunk, and everyone except the driver get out with IDs. When they saw we had a child, they said the child could stay in the car, and the driver didn't need inspection. They told me to park to the right and wait for my family. The child wouldn't agree to be left alone, so I asked my wife to take the child with her to the checkpoint. I drove alone to the designated spot. My parents-in-law, wife, and child took their IDs to a machine inside the checkpoint building and scanned them, then came out.

Then we entered the highway. Right on the highway was Yuqia service area. I decided to stop and rest. My wife bought an ice cream for the child at the service area; she only ate a few bites. After a short break, we continued. About half an hour later, we arrived at Emerald Lake.

The parking lot outside Emerald Lake was large. Since it was off-season, there were few cars. We parked in an empty spot and went to buy tickets. I glanced at the cultural and creative products in the visitor center: some cartoon mascot figurines, small but expensive, ranging from 200-300 to 500-600 yuan. The designs were extremely unattractive. Can they really sell? Not my concern. I hurried out of the shop and went to the hall. My parents-in-law came too. My wife and I gave them their tickets—total ticket cost 340 yuan. We held the child's hand and walked inside. The entrance gate was on the left side of the hall. When scanning my mother-in-law's ticket, it wouldn't work. The staff tried repeatedly and finally got it through. The system must have been too dry.

Inside, we took a shuttle bus. There were 5 stops, similar to Water Yadan: non-stop on the way in, stop at each on the return. Emerald Lake consists of separate small salt lakes with different colors: blue, green, and some yellow. Blue sky, white clouds, dark mountains in the distance, and the emerald-like lake water blended into the scenery, looking particularly lovely.

(Small chestnut and wife)

(My parents-in-law waving in the distance)

We got off at the last stop. The child had been quiet all along; something was definitely wrong. As soon as we got off, she vomited heavily. I suspected the lunch was unclean; my wife said it might be the ice cream. We quickly cleaned her up. After vomiting, her spirits lifted. We figured she was fine and continued playing.

(Small chestnut turning around)

There were quite a few tourists here. Almost every small train was full. Some were taking wedding photos, mostly young people doing artistic poses, and aunties posing in various ways. Countless lakes—some large, seemingly connected; some small, clearly from artificial mining.

My family started their photo session again. I felt very tired, took a few random photos, and sat at the station. When I thought it was time, I called them to head back.

Emerald Lake also had many props for young artists to take photos. The most memorable was a fake piano; it was fun to pose on. I had the child sit in front of the piano, then played a song on my phone: "Just Ordinary" by Zhang Jie and Zhang Bichen. The atmosphere instantly filled the area. The child pretended to play the piano, bobbing her head, looking very cute.

(My mother-in-law in front of the mountains)

(Small chestnut making a charge gesture)

(Scenic area station and people waiting for the shuttle bus)

Day Three ends.

May 9th, Day Four, begins.

We woke up early because I had said the day before that we had a long drive today and should start as early as possible. So everyone finished washing quickly and went downstairs for breakfast. The hotel included breakfast, located next to yesterday's stone pot restaurant. It had steamed buns, porridge, pickled vegetables, etc. I asked the owner to pack 5 eggs for my wife and child. After I finished eating, my parents-in-law had already brought down the luggage from both rooms. My wife checked out, we loaded the luggage and people, and set off for the next stop: Yangguan Ancient Site.

At 9:30, we drove along Liuge Expressway. We reached Yuqia again and went through another checkpoint. This time, I was also checked. After passing this, we left Qinghai and entered Gansu. The road descended continuously; the altitude dropped significantly, and breathing became easier. But the wind outside was strong and cold. At a service area, we took a break; even a short walk outside made us shiver.

The map showed we had to cross a mountain—Dangjin Mountain. It was a winding mountain road. As soon as we entered the mountain, a light rain started. On the way to Water Yadan earlier, it had also rained, even chasing us. The rain was light. But this winding road was twisty, with many big trucks. Never overtake on curves; we had to follow. Only on straight stretches with good visibility did I carefully overtake. Quick and decisive; hesitation could be dangerous with oncoming traffic. The rain grew heavier, visibility blurred. I slowed down a lot; no rush, safety first.

At the mountain pass, there was a sign warning that the road ahead had continuous steep downhill and sharp turns. Drivers should be careful and preferably check brakes in advance. Helpful reminder. Indeed, it was downhill all the way, winding and turning. Above the road, we saw a railway track crossing between two peaks, with tunnels appearing like a toy train.

At the foot of the mountain, just as we were about to exit, we saw an accident: a big truck rear-ended another big truck. Tragedy. In this remote place, far from any town, the drivers could only wait for rescue, helpless. I was glad I drove carefully and avoided accidents. That's human nature—when disaster doesn't befall us, we feel inexplicably happy. But it's not good; if taken too far, it leads to schadenfreude, which is wrong.

We exited the mountain at 11:50. The rain stopped. There was another checkpoint, but we didn't need to get out. We just handed the IDs to the staff, who scanned them on a machine. Then we continued. Along the road, we saw many emergency ramps, indicating many traffic accidents here. I urge all drivers to drive carefully and be cautious.

We arrived in Aksai Kazak Autonomous County at 12:30. We randomly found a small restaurant, another Sichuan restaurant. This time, my father-in-law ordered: chili stir-fry with pork, mushroom stir-fry with pork, another pork stir-fry, and stir-fried water spinach. They even had water spinach here, which was rare. The restaurant was small, but the food was excellent; we ate everything cleanly. I also ordered a apricot peel drink, but it was just okay, not to my taste. Total meal cost: 128 yuan.

Full and satisfied, we continued. Aksai is much lower in altitude, just over 1,000 meters. The sun was shining, warm, breathing smoothly, mood happy. After leaving Aksai, we saw desert again. But it wasn't a plain of sand; it was sand mountains. After a few turns, we were in a very desolate wilderness, with signs occasionally saying "Han Dynasty Ruins."

We passed Xuanquanzhi (Suspended Spring Post Station), which I had seen in the documentary "Hexi Corridor." It was a post station from the Han Dynasty, recording how much food officials ate when passing through on missions to the Western Regions. Two thousand years of cultural accumulation and inheritance. When I think about the resilience of our ancestors in expanding the territory, now reduced to ruins, two thousand years is but a moment in the vast universe. This land full of imagination always inspires respect for our predecessors. Perhaps in a few thousand years, our descendants will also respect us for creating such a beautiful and prosperous China.

After Xuanquanzhi, a ten-minute drive brought us to the Yangguan scenic area. We bought tickets and shuttle bus tickets for 190 yuan in total, and hired a guide for 150 yuan. The guide was a young man, born in 2005, still a student, earning extra money and improving himself during his free time. An excellent young man. His explanations were not very comprehensive, a bit stiff, like reciting a script, but without mistakes. That's already good; he just needs more practice with pacing and technique. I believe if he chooses this path, he'll be an excellent guide. He interacted with us a bit, answering some of my curious questions.

This scenic area is almost entirely modern man-made, but I don't see a problem. As long as there is human history and good scenery, it's a good attraction in terms of hardware. But my father-in-law didn't think so; he found it boring. Different strokes for different folks.

In front of the city wall was a small museum, with a statue of Zhang Qian. The museum displayed the discoveries and research of archaeologists, ancient war artifacts, Yangguan's geographic location, and some diagrams. After the museum, there was a replica of a small ancient government office where you could sit and take photos. Then there was a replica of a small city gate; a man in ancient costume was pretending to interrogate tourists: "What business do you have at Yangguan? Where do you intend to go? Answer a question... Congratulations, you may proceed..." Something like that. I had seen such videos on Douyin; it's just for fun, a small highlight of this spot.

(Behind me is the statue of Zhang Qian)

(My father-in-law on the seat of the small government office)

(Populus euphratica; not a forest, just a few trees)

(Man-made small city gate; my father-in-law posing and small chestnut wriggling)

(Yangguan ancient site; opposite is the Yangguan beacon tower)

(My wife in the strong wind)

(Silk Road—Southern Route)

(A small oasis with red willows; the branches are used to skewer lamb for roasting)

(My wife in the wind)

(Small chestnut bewildered in the man-made drill field)

After Yangguan, there was a local grape valley, a bit of greenery. But we didn't buy grapes. We continued driving to the next stop: Western Thousand Buddha Caves.

To be honest, without Amap navigation, I would never have found Western Thousand Buddha Caves. It's located below the wilderness level beside the road, with no signs nearby. There's a river next to the scenic area—Dang River—but I didn't see any river; there was no water around. That's not the main issue. We arrived at 17:00, but the scenic area closes at 17:30, and the latest entry is 16:30. No way—we missed the timing. A pity. We continued driving to the next stop: Dunhuang.

At around 18:00, we arrived at our hotel in Dunhuang—Yuanmeng Inn. The owner was very warm and hospitable, taking care of everything. We ordered some food for dinner. I smiled and told my wife that I would take her to see an exciting show. She asked which show. I said "See You Again Dunhuang" performance. She agreed. We asked the inn owner to buy two tickets for "See You Again Dunhuang" and two tickets for "Le Dong Dunhuang" for my parents-in-law, who would take the child. Total cost for all tickets: 1,032 yuan.

The "See You Again" series is one of the top immersive shows in China, along with Zhang Yimou's "Impression" series and the Songcheng "Romantic" series.

"See You Again Dunhuang" uses an immersive performance style, which is its specialty. During the first hour, performers move through the stage and perform right next to you, putting you in close contact. With lighting, sound effects, narration, sets, and costumes, you truly feel immersed. The pacing is excellent, tugging at the audience's heartstrings. Just as you feel moved and excited, it cuts off, leaving you oscillating between climaxes. The climaxes are exhilarating, but the oscillation between them is even more thrilling. Isn't that exciting?

The middle segment uses small areas where the audience gathers, focusing on historical figures who have passed through the great Hexi Corridor, eliminating the previous confusion.

The last half hour is a stage performance with the audience seated, so you don't have to stand. This avoids repetitive interaction and allows the audience to be passive recipients, reducing fatigue.

Director Wang Chaoge—amazing!

Besides the director, the rest of the staff are also commendable, with excellent professionalism. Especially the key actors, who are far superior to many young idols. The performance was impeccable. The only minor flaw was that during the first hour's stage transitions, the historical figures appeared one after another, perhaps to emphasize the theme of "a thousand years in an instant," but the transitions felt rushed, giving the audience a brief "bathroom break" feeling. I think a slightly shorter stage length could avoid this. Just a naive thought.

After the show, the aftertaste lingered. I couldn't help humming Huang Ma's song "A Thousand Years in an Instant" subconsciously. I'm still humming it as I write this travelogue.

Then we went to find my parents-in-law. After their show at "Le Dong Dunhuang," they were sitting in a square outside. There was an outdoor performance and some food stalls. We didn't buy anything, just got excited with the young crowd watching the show, then coaxed the child back to the inn to rest.

(Small square in front of Le Dong Dunhuang)

May 10th, Day Five, begins.

We slept in, had breakfast at the inn, and I loaded the luggage into the car. The car was very dirty. When the inn owner saw me wiping the front windshield with a tissue, he simply connected a hose, handed the pipe to me, and turned on the water for me to wash the car. Very hospitable. Thanks to the owner. The total cost for the inn (room and meals) was 465 yuan, great value.

The whole family got in the car and went to the next stop: Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring.

The inn was very close to Mingsha Mountain Crescent Moon Spring, but the road had strict speed limits. After a ten-minute drive, we arrived at the scenic area at 9:30. Tickets cost 330 yuan in total.

(Small square in front of Mingsha Mountain)

Actually, I've always believed that when traveling or visiting a specific scenic spot, you should minimize unnecessary personal belongings. I'm here to have fun, not to carry a heavy backpack. With thousands spent on airfare and hundreds on tickets, a few yuan for luggage storage is nothing. A family trip to a scenic spot takes about 2-3 hours, at most 4. Why bring dry food? Are you afraid you'll starve? In short, I felt relieved and in a good mood. I also stored my father-in-law's backpack. It turned out that none of the items in those bags were needed; we didn't use anything during the entire visit. Chinese people like to prepare for all contingencies, which is not bad. It's necessary to be well-prepared, but don't overdo it, and clarify what you're preparing for. For school, students need textbooks and stationery; too many fancy learning aids are excessive. When traveling, dress neatly, bring essential items, that's enough; too much is overkill.

My father-in-law complained that camel riding was expensive, and the camel team said people over 65 were not recommended to ride. So he went to take the shuttle bus instead. Whatever makes him happy. My mother-in-law chose to stay with us; she doesn't oppose anything we do. Her happiness comes from seeing us happy. So, in many group photos at scenic spots, my father-in-law is absent. But that's fine. Travel is about choosing what suits you and brings you joy. There's no standard or deep meaning; don't make unnecessary pursuits.

Camels are much larger than horses and more stable to ride. It reminded me of riding elephants in Chitwan, Nepal, with my wife earlier. Elephants are even larger than camels and feel more stable. Conclusion: the larger the animal, the more stable the ride.

(My wife and small chestnut kissing)

(Me chubby and the hardworking camel)

Camels are grouped in teams of five. The camel driver said the maximum is six; more would be dangerous. My wife and child were at the front, me in the middle, my mother-in-law behind, followed by two other aunties, one per camel. The route was fixed. The north route has many amusement facilities; the south route goes to a spot not far from Crescent Moon Spring. We chose the south route, and the two aunties agreed. I wondered why they didn't clarify when buying tickets. If opinions differed, what would they do? Untie the reins and gallop apart? After a turn, the camel management area disappeared behind a sand dune, and we stopped. The driver asked if we wanted photos, using our phones, for 20 yuan per person. Was this a conspiracy? It seemed half-open. You could choose not to take photos, like the two aunties behind us. But Chinese people often think, "since we're here, what's a little more cost?" To avoid regret, we chose to have photos taken.

The camel ride wasn't long; we stopped after rounding a sand dune. The child was overjoyed and started playing in the sand. Then my wife took her to climb a sand dune a bit. The scenic area had set up simple ladders for climbing, which were much easier than stepping directly on sand, providing some support. I climbed a bit but got lazy and lay on the sand dune, looking at the sky and the distance, feeling very cozy.

Online, it's said that due to the terrain, the wind at Mingsha Mountain blows sand upward, so no matter how much sand tourists kick down, the wind blows it back. And the sound of moving sand gives it the name Mingsha (Singing Sand) Mountain. Nature is amazing.

(Small chestnut playing a hand drum)

(My wife and small chestnut climbing the rope ladder)

(Upward view of the sand mountain, fine sand)

(Beautiful wife)

(Small chestnut daydreaming)

(Small chestnut confused)

(Beautiful wife)

(Small chestnut puffing her cheeks)

Crescent Moon Spring was not far away, shaped like a crescent moon. But the area around it was under construction, so it didn't have the charm I imagined. No need to go closer. We came down from the sand dune, rested a bit, then bought return shuttle tickets (10 yuan each). My mother-in-law was nowhere to be found; she went off on her own. The three of us took the shuttle back to the square, where my wife took more photos of the child after dressing her up.

My father-in-law called to say he was waiting in the parking lot. My mother-in-law also finished and returned. I retrieved our stored bags and we left the scenic area together. After meeting up with my father-in-law, we drove to the next stop: Mogao Caves.

Mogao Caves was the only attraction that required advance reservation. Only 6,000 tickets are released per day, divided into time slots. Our arrival time was just right, thanks to my wife reserving and securing tickets in advance, totaling 772 yuan, and the time slot was well chosen. Mogao Caves is not far from yesterday's accommodation; it took about ten minutes from Mingsha Mountain to get there. There's a large parking lot in front of the caves, similar to Emerald Lake, with few cars in off-season, so parking was easy.

We had lunch in the car again, ate quickly, and then hurried to the scenic area. Only after entering did we realize there were still many tourists.

(Before watching the movie)

First, we watched a movie about the history of the Hexi Corridor and Mogao Caves, then another movie about the main caves and their contents. Finally, we took a bus for about 7-8 minutes to the actual Mogao Caves. Showing movies to tourists is necessary. First, it acts as a buffer, preventing too many tourists from converging at once (though reservation also limits numbers, it doesn't directly buffer). Second, it provides an introduction; otherwise, most tourists would visit without any preparation and see nothing meaningful. Previewing is good.

Notably, the second movie was shown in a hemispherical theater with a viewing angle of about 270°. The footage was likely multi-camera and then stitched into a panoramic view, with no distortion at the edges. Pretty good. Many domestic companies do similar things, mostly for corporate culture or exhibition halls, making the audience feel immersed. The downside is that it can make you dizzy.

(My father-in-law getting off the shuttle bus)

(Outside the caves)

Before entering Mogao Caves, we queued in a corridor. Each guide gave everyone a single-ear headset. Groups of about 30 people then toured with a guide. Our guide was excellent: clear speech, logical, and a good delivery that felt like chatting with a friend, being in a teacher's class, getting a guide's explanation, and having a safety officer worry about you keeping up... In short, she gave us many 'vibes.' Upon closer look, she was indeed wearing black stockings. She took care of the whole group and took us to eight caves. I listened attentively. What impressed me most were not Shakyamuni, Mahakasyapa, Ananda... but the inconspicuous small murals. They were arranged in grids, with identical postures, expressions, and gestures. I deliberately compared several caves and felt they were painted by the same master. Why did they impress me? Try writing the same character in rows on a white paper. Even if you write 'one,' they won't be identical. The small murals in Mogao Caves look like they were stamped with a template, but up close, they are so realistic. The ancient craftsmen were truly miraculous, with skills beyond compare.

(Outside the caves)

The guide said daily visits are limited because our breathing and sunlight accelerate damage to the statues and murals. To allow future generations to enjoy these artistic treasures, access must be restricted. That's correct. One generation shouldn't only think of itself; we must think long-term for our descendants.

During the entire visit to Mogao Caves, the child was almost always carried by one of the four adults. After we came out, we were too tired to carry her and bought her a cream-flavored popsicle. She was happy and started walking on her own. But I worried she might vomit again. I tasted the ice cream—it had a chemical taste. I tasted again and confirmed it was high-tech. So I discussed with her that it wasn't tasty and we should stop eating. She agreed, and we threw it away.

After visiting Mogao Caves, we returned to the parking lot and drove to the next stop: Son of the Earth.

Following the navigation, we drove for 1.5 hours, exited the highway, turned a couple of times, and entered the wilderness again. This time, it didn't take long to reach our destination. Son of the Earth is a huge sculpture of a baby sleeping face down on the ground. About 5-6 minutes before it, there is also a huge head sculpture of Emperor Wu of Han. I really like the Son of the Earth work; it's lifelike. A peacefully sleeping baby is always endearing. I checked online: it's by Dong Shubing, a professor at the Academy of Fine Arts of Tsinghua University. A baby crawling and sleeping alone in the desert is so lonely. The work aims to call for environmental protection and safeguarding our beautiful home.

(Son of the Earth and my mother-in-law)

(Emperor Wu's big head)

After a quick tour of Son of the Earth, we drove to Guazhou.

Guazhou—the place mentioned in the famous poem "Sleeping in a boat on a snowy night at Guazhou Ferry, the clash of iron horse and ice enters my dream." We only stayed here overnight, with no intention of sightseeing. From Son of the Earth to Guazhou accommodation was about 20 minutes. When we arrived, we found the hotel had no elevator. I had to carry a 50-jin suitcase upstairs. Forget it. My wife found another place on the spot: Lanshanmu Hotel (initially navigated to a store on Guangde Road, but then we phoned and found it was Fushi Haoshang Business Hotel on Yuanquan Street). The room cost 272 yuan, and they upgraded us for free. Next to the hotel was the Xuanzang Sutra Museum, and within 500 meters was the Birthplace of the Grass Saint, but we didn't go due to time constraints.

After dropping luggage at the hotel, we went to look for food in Guazhou. I wasn't feeling well and couldn't eat. We found a malatang (spicy hot pot) restaurant; my mother-in-law, wife, and child ate there, while my father-in-law had noodles at a nearby place.

During their meal, I drove to refuel and bought a case of water. Then I picked them up and returned to the hotel. We left the child with my parents-in-law, and my wife and I drove to find a fruit shop to buy fruit. Specifically, I wanted to buy a melon because Guazhou means 'melon state,' so the melons here should be delicious. It's like a rule: if it's called 'Hami' (a city), then its melons must be good; if it's called 'Hetian' (a city), then its jade must be good. It reminded me of a city in Ethiopia called 'Kaffa,' where coffee must be good. That city is indeed the birthplace of coffee, but now it doesn't produce much coffee, and the coffee there is no longer special. Finally, we found a fruit shop. I asked the staff which local melon is the most delicious and famous. She didn't know and casually recommended a kind of Hami melon. Okay, they don't deceive tourists with regional labels. Honest. We bought a Hami melon. Later in Shenzhen, we bought a similar type of Hami melon; indeed, the one from Guazhou was tastier, though it might have been imported from elsewhere.

Day Five ends.

May 11th, Day Six, begins.

Initially, the hotel seemed fine. The room had a large humidifier. But in the middle of the night, I woke up to a musty smell. I felt dizzy and uncomfortable, couldn't sleep. I tossed and turned. At 4:30, I got dressed, went downstairs, and sat on the roadside, staring at the empty streets of this small northwestern town. The sky gradually brightened. Bored, I went back to the hotel lobby and sat for a while. There was a beeping sound from a machine, not loud but extremely irritating at that moment. I left, went upstairs, and washed up.

(Dawn in Guazhou)

Everyone woke up relatively early. We packed up and drove to a highly rated beef noodle restaurant for breakfast. When we arrived, I parked the car, and my wife, to save time, ordered takeout and handed me a bowl of noodles. I thought, what's a few minutes? So I brought the takeout into the restaurant and sat down to eat. I also ordered an extra roujiamo (meat sandwich). The roujiamo had a lot of fatty meat.

After breakfast, it was 9:00. I still felt a bit dizzy, but thought I could manage, so I drove to the next stop: Jiayuguan Great Wall.

At 12:10, we arrived at the Jiayuguan Fortress scenic area. It was very sunny outside, and the child didn't want to go. I was dizzy and just wanted to sleep. So I stayed in the car with the child while my wife took my parents-in-law to see the Great Wall. Tickets cost 220 yuan total. The child didn't fuss in the back seat, just played with toys. I lay down in the front and dozed off.

(Overlooking Jiayuguan Fortress from above)

At 15:00, my wife and parents-in-law returned, saying they had already eaten and brought some food for me and the child. My parents-in-law fed the child in the back seat, and I ate some in the car. Then we set off for the next stop: Zhangye Colorful Danxia.

Jiayuguan city is not large, and outside the city, it's quite barren. However, Jiayuguan itself is decent with good urban greenery, wide roads, and few cars. It has Fantawild and the Great Wall. It would be nice to be a civil servant here.

On the way to Zhangye Colorful Danxia, there were many big trucks. In these few days in the northwest, today we saw the most cars. We refueled at a service area in Gaotai County. By the time we arrived at Danxia Kou Cultural Tourism Town, it was already past 18:00. We parked at the booked hotel—Stone City Hotel, costing 356 yuan in total. This cultural tourism town also had many parent-child facilities.

When checking in, a tour group arrived. The front desk clerk was busy registering them. Since we were independent travelers, an older front desk aunt voluntarily handled our check-in. But she didn't know how to do it. If you don't know, why volunteer? She was too embarrassed to bother the busy clerk next to her, so we waited. Finally, she mustered the courage to ask for help; the clerk tapped a few times and finished. Meanwhile, the tour group tourists were still waiting, milling around. They noticed a man sitting at a computer on the other side and assumed he could also handle check-ins. He was indeed a staff member, but not responsible for that. The tourists surrounded him, and those who hadn't surrounded him saw the commotion and joined in. Through the crowd, I saw the male staff member trying to explain. The scene was chaotic like a tangled hemp rope.

Finally, we got to the room. I was shivering all over. I got into bed without undressing, feeling very cold. I asked my wife to add another quilt. Still cold, I asked the front desk for another quilt. I slept under three quilts, curled into a ball, after taking some medicine. My wife took the child and parents-in-law out to eat. They brought back food for me. They played with some parent-child facilities and attended a bonfire party. Around 10 p.m., I felt very hot again. I threw off the quilts, lay for a while, felt better, got up to eat dinner, washed up briefly, and went back to sleep. I don't know when my wife and child returned.

Day Six ends.

May 12th, Day Seven, begins.

I woke up feeling better, no discomfort. It seemed I had recovered.

We packed up, and it was already past 9 a.m. The hotel's buffet breakfast ended, but my wife had called ahead and they saved some for us. We ate heartily. When we got to the parking lot, my parents-in-law were already waiting with the luggage. Luggage in, people in, we set off.

Ten minutes later, we arrived at the entrance of Colorful Danxia. We parked and bought tickets for 176 yuan total. Inside, we took a shuttle bus that stopped at each station, but it didn't go further after reaching the middle. This was the west line terminal, probably the center of the scenic area. We were on the west line; there's also an east line. If it's two different operators, I can understand, but if it's one operator, I have to criticize the operation—it's poorly managed.

(My mother-in-law climbing a slope)

Colorful Danxia is best viewed in the evening with the sunset illuminating the colorful landforms. But it was also nice now. With no comparison, I say the current view is the best.

Typical Danxia landform, very different from the one in Shaoguan. There are many colors here. The viewing platforms are well set up, but you have to climb stairs. That's tough on my mother-in-law. We kept calling out to her, encouraging her to come up.

Notably, the child walked all the way without being carried, because we met another family of three. Their child was a year younger than ours, babbling unclearly. The mother had brought the child to see the father, who was stationed in the local military. Both parents were from Linyi, Shandong, and looked much younger than us. I chatted with the father. He seemed like the silent soldier type from TV dramas. Indeed, we only exchanged a few words. He said we find this place interesting, but he doesn't feel anything. After a few years in the army, he's used to these scenes and finds them boring. The children had a great time, shouting "Hello" at the Danxia. The mother said that today, for the first time, the child learned to say 'hello' besides 'mom' and 'dad.' My father-in-law wandered off on his own. When we finished and were about to go down, we met him and took a few group photos.

(Danxia landform)

(My wife leaning on the railing)

(My mother-in-law in front of the 'Danxia Viewing' stone)

(Danxia landform)

After leaving the scenic area, it was time to eat. My wife, child, mother-in-law, and I ate at KFC, while my father-in-law went to eat noodles. Then we drove back to Stone City Hotel to pick up my wife's jacket, which she had forgotten. The housekeeping had found it and called us. Everyone and everything ready, we set off for the next stop: Matisi (Horse Hoof Temple).

On the way to Matisi, we passed several villages with nice-looking small houses, indicating good income and prosperity. Many villages had their own small temples; from a distance, they resembled the Jiangnan region. The appearance of these villages fully demonstrated the new socialist countryside.

(My wife's random photo of the scenery outside the car)

We drove on rural roads with good conditions. We arrived at Matisi at 14:50. I got out to buy tickets. There were three package options; I chose the simplest one, costing 456 yuan total. Not because it was cheap, but because of time constraints. The classic route was enough. Matisi allows you to drive in. Not far in, we reached Thousand Buddha Caves. We parked, crossed the road, and entered the temple. The temple was not large. In the middle was a statue, and behind it was a cliff with many caves containing many Buddhist statues. I didn't climb up, but my father-in-law did. My wife took the child up. My mother-in-law and I sat in the open area of the temple.

Suddenly, an old monk came out of the west wing. His demeanor reminded me of my maternal grandfather. He sat not far from us. There were few tourists in the temple, so he chatted with us: where were we from, what special attractions were in our hometown, etc. Then an older woman came out of the east wing, looking like a logistics manager. The old monk asked her to cut a watermelon. She went straight to the offering table in front of the statue, took a watermelon, went back to the west wing, cut it, and brought it to our table. The old monk invited us to eat. We were flattered. My mother-in-law was very happy and thanked him. So we started eating watermelon. Passing tourists also ate watermelon under the old monk's invitation. My father-in-law, wife, and child also ate some when they came down. In my hometown, eating the fruits and snacks offered to the gods is considered auspicious, bringing safety and blessings.

(The watermelon we ate)

(Carving caves looks very difficult; those small holes are bird nests)

(Statue of a chubby monk)

(Chubby monk and small chestnut; small chestnut kept asking why the chubby monk didn't open his eyes)

(The opposite side of Thousand Buddha Caves: a small river? stream?)

(Suspension bridge opposite Thousand Buddha Caves)

After thanking the old monk and the woman, we drove further into Matisi. We reached the foot of Golden Tower Temple, where cars were not allowed. My mother-in-law saw the long mountain path and didn't go up. My father-in-law, me, my wife, and child continued. In the sun, it was warm; in the shade, it was cold.

After a while, we saw two white pagodas with prayer wheels around them. We walked around and turned each wheel. Further ahead, there was a huge cliff with many caves, several stories high. We first walked to the easternmost side via a wooden suspension bridge, then toured back. Inside the eastern caves were many large statues carved from the mountain, not newly made. The path was uneven, but I could see modern pipes laid underfoot. We bowed to each statue and then headed to the middle. On the suspension bridge, we met a family from Henan. We greeted them, and the child waved to their younger daughter, but they ignored us. As we passed, I heard the mother say, "How come she's so white? Like bleached." I knew she was complimenting my child's fair skin. As a father, it's nice to hear someone praise your child, so not being greeted didn't matter.

(Small chestnut on the wooden path)

In the middle, we saw a sign: "Thirty-three Heaven Caves" (San Shi San Tian Shiku). Such a specific name is rare. We immediately entered through a door below. Inside was a spiral stone staircase. The ancients carved according to the terrain, so it wasn't very regular. Some steps were easy; others required both hands and feet—truly climbing stairs.

Each floor had a corridor with openings for light and ventilation. We had to bend down and nod to pass through the doorways, showing respect to the deities. After a short distance, the corridor ended, and we turned back. On the other side of the corridor were Buddhist statues, each representing various functions, usually a main Buddha flanked by two attendants. I only climbed to the third floor and stopped. My wife took the child further up. Whenever the child saw a statue, she would shout, "Wish you good health and speedy recovery!" She didn't really understand what 'speedy recovery' meant, but she knew it was a blessing.

This made me think. We always pray to the Buddhas for health, safety, success, wealth, longevity, many children, etc., then offer money. We treat them like employees: "I paid, so you must bless me; if not, you're not effective." That's ridiculous. But we never bless the Buddhas themselves. Since we respect them, it's improper to have only one-way exchanges. The child's blessing was quite creative.

Following the navigation, we drove to Biandukou, but it was clearly abandoned. Another car squeezed through a gap in the fence, drove around, and came out. I considered that as having visited. I just took a photo by the roadside. Then we continued. My father-in-law asked what was interesting here. I said nothing much, but it's the starting point of the Hexi Corridor and on the way, so we just had a look. Further ahead was Ebao Town, a small hub. I said we would come back here tomorrow, so today we had to push on, otherwise the schedule would be delayed. We didn't stop in Ebao and continued to our next destination: Qilian Town.

By the roadside, we saw many locals parking their cars and climbing the hillsides in groups. They were digging for cordyceps, which are valuable. The car continued. After passing Ebao Town, the scenery became very beautiful. To the right of the car were cattle and sheep; to the left was an open flat area, and further left was the Qilian Mountain range. The setting sun cast a glow. From a distance, the mountains didn't have obvious peaks; they appeared uniformly connected, the peaks gray-black, with clouds above. The flat area added depth. We passed many viewing platforms, and roadside signs marked the 'most beautiful road.' How many 'most beautiful roads' are there in China? There were few cars on this road, but it was long. As the sun set, it got dark, and we were driving at night again. We arrived at the farmhouse in Qilian Town at 21:00.

(Photo from inside the car)

This farmhouse, called Muxuan Farmhouse, was carefully chosen online with great reviews. After some twists and turns, we saw their glowing sign and sighed with relief. We arrived.

We parked at their door, got out with luggage. The owner, a very young man, welcomed us at the door, saying the rooms were ready. He helped us carry luggage to the rooms. The farmhouse had two floors, not very large. Our rooms were on the west side; the owner was adding more rooms on the east side (unfinished). I said we hadn't eaten yet; could we order food? He happily said yes, everything was available. My wife ordered: a local chicken soup, roasted lamb chops, stir-fried green vegetables, and another stir-fry. Everyone was tired and sat waiting to eat. The owner was extremely hospitable. After arranging the kitchen, he came to chat with us. He asked about our plans for the next day. I briefly told him, and he said it was a great itinerary. I was happy to be praised. My mother-in-law asked if he was married. He didn't shy away: yes, he was 23 years old, and his child was a few days younger than ours. My mother-in-law asked why he married so early. He said his family was Muslim (Hui), and local people marry early. If you pass the college entrance exam, you go to school; if not, you get married. He said if he were still unmarried at his age, he would have to look for a divorced partner.

Then he got busy. It seemed besides us, there was one other family, but they had probably rested.

The farmhouse was beautifully decorated—not with luxurious materials, but with thoughtful details. The owner clearly took great care of his business. The food finally came. We were very hungry and ate heartily. The taste was excellent, and portions were generous. I forced myself to finish the lamb chops. There was still a lot of chicken soup left. The owner suggested we use it to make noodle soup for breakfast the next morning. Good idea.

After dinner, we went upstairs to rest. On the bed, the owner had placed a flower arrangement. Thoughtful. Again, my wife, seeing I was exhausted from the day's drive, took care of the child's bath and bedtime, letting me go straight to sleep. Actually, I knew everyone was tired; my wife was also pushing through. That's love, silent.

Day Seven ends.

May 13th, Day Eight, begins.

When I woke up, my wife and daughter also woke up. Our room had a huge window. I suddenly pulled open the curtains. "Wow," my wife and daughter exclaimed. A snow-capped mountain came into view. That was today's destination: Zhuor Mountain.

We washed, packed, had breakfast, and paid the bill: 470 yuan total. Luggage in, people in. We said goodbye to the warm-hearted owner, wishing him a prosperous business. Then we drove a short distance to the Zhuor Mountain scenic area. Proximity was another reason I chose this accommodation.

We parked and bought tickets for 220 yuan total. Inside, we took a shuttle bus (a small minibus) for less than ten minutes, then got off and started climbing. The mountain path was made of wooden planks. On the slope, another path was under construction, looking like a small slide. Some parts were even building elevators. In a year or two, the number of tourists here will probably surge. Today was sunny but not crowded; we were one of the few families. This scenic area also had a fire prevention campaign. Every so often, there was a firefighter model the size of my child. In Shenzhen, we also see similar cartoon-like models, but the faces aren't so realistic. The child liked them, and she started walking without being carried again—a great gift from Zhuor Mountain.

(Small chestnut in front of the beacon tower)

(Small chestnut on the viewing platform)

(Small chestnut and wife)

On the slope, there were flocks of sheep. They looked different from the ones we had seen before, clearly a different breed. Their buttocks were round, so round that you wanted to reach out and pat them, but you couldn't because of the railing. We climbed and climbed, and soon reached the top. The view was beautiful: open vistas of distant grasslands and mountains, as if clearing the mind of the pent-up gloom of city life. I felt very happy.

After the visit, we returned to the car. Due to time and the fact we had already hiked, we skipped Ami Dongsuo and went directly to the next spot: Gangshika Snow Peak's Colorful Icefall in Menyuan.

(Car window photo)

We drove and arrived at Ebao Town at 12:40. Passing Ebao meant we were back in Qinghai from Gansu (so we had already been in Qinghai yesterday). At the triangular intersection of Ebao Town, we had lunch. My father-in-law didn't eat with us; he went to eat noodles. We had another stone pot dish and a tomato and egg dish, totaling 100 yuan. The taste was better than the one in Dachaidan. After eating, we continued. As we started, we passed Ebao Ancient City. I had seen it online; there wasn't much inside, so I just took a photo from the car. We also saw a gas station and refueled.

(Ebao Town; on the right is the restaurant)

(Car window photo)

We arrived at Gangshika Colorful Icefall at 14:40. This is a free attraction; you can drive up. There's a camp area, but you need to register at the gate. Once there, I really admired it: rocky peaks, a small stream in the valley, all meltwater from the glacier. On both sides of the stream, tourists had piled many Mani stones. Looking back at the foot of the mountain, it felt like spring. My parents-in-law were very impressed, repeatedly saying it was beautiful. Even my father-in-law took many photos—rarely does he take photos, and he even joined us for a group photo.

(Camp at the foot of Gangshika Snow Peak)

(Front and opposite side of the snow peak; glacier meltwater is still murky)

(Small chestnut holding up one finger; I don't know why she's making a '1')

Among the rocks near the camp, we occasionally saw small yellow round animals, the size and movements of rabbits. I asked a staff member, who said they were ground squirrels. They were cute, wiggling their bottoms when moving, not fast. If I weren't restrained by manners, I would have touched one.

(Can you spot the ground squirrel?)

(View from Daban Mountain viewing platform)

(View from Daban Mountain viewing platform)

After visiting Gangshika Colorful Icefall, we headed to the next stop: Daban Mountain viewing platform.

(Daban Mountain tunnel)

(Car window photo)

(Car window photo: a rich family's cattle herd)

After enjoying the scenery, we continued forward without backtracking, driving along the mountain road. Next was Heiquan Reservoir. This reservoir can be seen from the mountain road. It's said to be beautiful at sunset, but it's not open to the public. How do other tourists see it? Anyway, I saw just an ordinary reservoir. Shenzhen also has many reservoirs, some large, but here the altitude is high and the surrounding mountains are higher.

After passing Heiquan Reservoir, we drove a long distance and arrived at Chengguan Town. The town center was small, with dusty roads, feeling very dirty. We stopped at a restaurant called Juxiange at 19:00 for dinner. We ordered: egg, milk, and fermented rice soup; dog pee cake (a type of pancake); sheep intestine noodles; sweet and sour pork tenderloin; tofu and thousand-layer sheet; and a sweet sesame and green pepper dish. Total 242 yuan. We couldn't finish and packed the leftovers for tomorrow.

We chose a hotel in town: Datong Wenjie Business Hotel, costing 380 yuan total. This hotel also had no elevator, and we had to carry luggage to the 2.5th floor. But we had no choice. After washing up, I went down to the car to get some medicine for the child. The child has gotten much darker these days. Who hasn't? The car was parked behind the hotel, next to a river that looked more like a dirty ditch. The parking area was also dirty, with trash everywhere. This town really needs a cleanup—I mean the whole town.

May 14th, Day Nine, begins.

We woke up and left. We didn't want to stay any longer. We ate some of the leftovers in the car for breakfast and drove off non-stop. Navigation said next stop: Jinyintan Grassland.

The navigation said to turn and enter the highway, but... we entered the nightmare of this trip. We kept driving west along Chengxi Highway, entered village roads, and then onto a gravel road full of potholes. This time I add 'potholes.' Not a single good section; the potholes were huge and deep. Luckily, the car had decent ground clearance, otherwise it would be impossible. The road was bumpy and undulating. My mother-in-law suffers the most on such roads; her lower back is not good.

(Car window photo: a rich family's sheep herd)

We drove for 2.5 hours and finally arrived. We had no mood to visit. I said Jinyintan is where the song "In a Distant Place" was created. My mother-in-law said she heard it in the restroom—the restroom at the entrance kept playing the song. I said there's an Atomic City here, a museum from the atomic bomb test era. My family said they had no interest. Actually, I had no interest either, and felt like vomiting. Nothing to do with the attraction. So everyone, beware of the Chengxi Highway.

We headed to the next spot. I remembered that my parents-in-law hadn't seen Qinghai Lake yet. They have been here for 9 days and are leaving tomorrow, but they haven't seen the lake. Not good. So I immediately drove to a temporary spot I planned on the spot: Fairy Bay Scenic Area.

Coincidentally, G213 was under construction and blocked. I detoured and entered Xihe Expressway. After driving for an hour, we arrived at Fairy Lake Scenic Area at 14:00. We bought tickets for 170 yuan total. The staff gave us a bag of small cookies to feed the seagulls, like little steamed buns. When the child saw the cookies, she tried to eat them. The staff immediately said these are not for humans, only for seagulls—they were expired. Maybe 'expired' was an excuse, but as a father, I certainly wouldn't let my child eat those cookies.

Inside, we took a shuttle bus again. A straight road, strong wind, cold. Soon we got off. There was a tall tower called San Sheng La Ze, representing horse, cow, and sheep. At the top were indeed sculptures of these animals' heads. This should be a local sacrificial site. Behind San Sheng La Ze was Qinghai Lake. The lake was wide, with small waves whipped up by the wind, and many seagulls. My family took many photos. The child couldn't wait to feed the seagulls. I said, pose nicely for some photos first, then I'll let you feed them. She reluctantly agreed.

(Seagulls eating cookies)

(My wife by Qinghai Lake)

The seagulls circled in the sky almost constantly. I tried the movie-style method: put a cookie in my palm, raise my hand high until it went numb, but no seagull approached. Fine, I changed tactics. I grabbed a handful of cookies and threw them upward; they scattered freely by the lake, and the seagulls gathered. The child was thrilled to see the seagulls eating. She imitated me and grabbed cookies to throw into the sky. The seagulls scrambled for them regardless of who threw them. The child entered a wild throwing mode. But the small boardwalk by the lake had no railing, and the child was standing at the edge. Adults must watch closely and be ready to catch her, lest she fall.

(Small chestnut in front of San Sheng La Ze)

(The sun shines bright, flowers smile at me)

This scenic area wasn't popular. Most people go to Erlang Sword on the south side of Qinghai Lake. So far, we were the only family here; only as we were leaving did another group of tourists arrive. The scenic area was simple, with almost no man-made structures except San Sheng La Ze, just wide open space. I've always believed that whether enjoying natural or cultural landscapes, the fewer tourists, the better. Sometimes I see news about overcrowded scenic spots during Spring Festival, Labor Day, etc., and I feel lucky I stayed away. Travel has no rigid meaning. I'm not an expert or doing research. Just being able to calm down and appreciate the local scenery and culture is enough. Why seek perfection?

After leaving Fairy Bay, a short drive took us to Gangcha County. In Gangcha, we saw a white pagoda and huge prayer flags. We drove to the gate, but looked around: no entry for cars, and no staff in sight. Better not to enter recklessly. We turned around, refueled at a gas station, and set off for the next stop: Moji Street in Xining.

On the way, we passed Chengguan Town again, but this time we took the highway, much more comfortable. I realized that the highway entrance to Chengguan was not on the west side but on the east side; I just hadn't noticed.

Arriving in Xining, we finally experienced the look of a northwestern city. Similar to southern cities—cities are cities, big or small, with tall buildings and heavy traffic. We arrived at the hotel—Nadu Hotel, costing 362 yuan total. The hotel had a nice environment. There were many small restaurants downstairs, and it was close to Moji Street, about a 5-minute walk. Very convenient. The only downside was the small underground parking lot, hard to park in, and with a bad smell.

I had checked online: Moji Street has mixed reviews, mostly for tourists to buy souvenirs and local products. The better place for locals is Xinqian Night Market and Daxin Street Night Market, both nearby. At 19:00, we ate at Jiulixiang Restaurant on Moji Street, total 208 yuan. After dinner, we walked around to buy some local products: beef jerky, yogurt drinks, eight-treasure tea, etc.

After shopping, we returned to the hotel. My wife and I went downstairs to bring the scattered items and common luggage from the car up to the room. We organized with my parents-in-law, since we were flying back tomorrow and didn't want to rush. Originally, the flight was at 13:45 tomorrow, but we received a text message changing it to 14:35—50 minutes later. Acceptable. We informed my parents-in-law.

Day Nine ends.

May 15th, Day Ten, begins.

The hotel provided a buffet breakfast: simple items, eggs, pickled vegetables, steamed buns. The family ate casually. Luggage in, people in. After ensuring nothing was left behind, we drove to the last attraction: Xining Nanshan Park.

This park is very close to the hotel. Even driving slowly, it took less than ten minutes—up a steep slope, then two turns. The park is free, only a 5-yuan parking fee. Great value because you can overlook Xining city from above. As always, overlooking the entire city gives a sense of stability, as if everything is under control. Actually, one cannot control much, not even the basics, like one's own life. But even a moment of such illusion can make people ecstatic and arrogant. The benevolent enjoy mountains; the wise enjoy water. The park is beautifully landscaped with lawns and trees. Many kindergarten teachers bring children here for activities. Peaceful park, playful children, sunny morning—a picture of peaceful times.

We arrived at the airport at 11:00. My parents-in-law and child took all the luggage into the airport, while my wife and I drove to refuel. Then we drove back to the flagpole in front of the airport parking lot. After a short wait, the Ctrip rental car staff arrived. They checked the car, found no issues, and completed the inspection. They chatted with us: had a good trip? Any suggestions? Then they wished us a safe journey and said welcome to come again. I instantly felt goodwill toward them. I wished them well and said goodbye.

My wife and I entered the airport and met up with my parents-in-law. It was time to eat again. My mother-in-law, me, my wife, and child went to a restaurant on the right side of the hall and ordered lamb paomo (bread soaked in lamb soup) and set meals, totaling 152 yuan. Airport food is always pricier, but enough to fill us up, especially the child. My father-in-law didn't eat with us; he went to eat noodles.

After eating, we prepared to board. The return flight was also with Shenzhen Airlines, 3.5 hours. On the plane, I glanced around; it seemed our family was the only one with a child. The flight attendants were especially attentive: bringing drinks early, giving little gifts (stickers). Our child was very happy, and even a week after returning home, she still mentioned the flight attendants, saying she missed them.

Alright, a full 10-day trip has come to an end. Although many places were just a quick glance, considering we had elderly and children, and it was our first family trip like this, we had a great time. Don't ask for too much; be content.

1. Prices along the Qinghai-Gansu loop are high. In some places, the cost of living approaches first-tier cities; some items even exceed the prices of similar goods in first-tier cities.

2. Overall, the road conditions in the northwest are very good: straight, smooth, and few cars, especially in off-season. But watch out for large trucks, which drive fast, and be careful of large animals like cattle, sheep, horses, and camels that might suddenly dash onto the road from the roadside.

3. Family travel is different from solo or couple travel. Don't rush. Slow down when needed. It's okay to miss some attractions. Also, avoid going out at night; try to sleep early and wake up early to stay healthy.

4. Most attractions on the Qinghai-Gansu loop have internal transportation. Don't complain about the price; take it to save time and energy.

5. Avoid driving on Chengxi Highway. Remember.