Amid Switzerland’s Scenic Splendors – A 2018 France-Switzerland Tour
In the summer of 2018, despite a rare heatwave across Europe, the scenery was picture-perfect and my mood blazed like the scorching sun…
Elegant, exquisite Lucerne
Endless wonders of Interlaken
Sunset over Lake Geneva and a morning at Chillon Castle
Zurich’s rich layers of history
Sizzling summer days in Paris
The protagonist makes an appearance
I’m changing the style of this travel journal a little – I’ll list the itinerary and tips at the end. First, let me share each view in the order I loved most.
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Section 1: Endless Splendour in Interlaken
I really can’t describe how beautiful Interlaken is. It’s a place you’ll never forget once you arrive, a place you’ll never tire of visiting, a place where troubles fade and you simply fall under its spell…
Departing from Lucerne, you can take the famous GoldenPass train and reach Interlaken in 1 hour and 50 minutes. This stretch is the highlight of the GoldenPass line, also called the Golden Pass Line, covering 75 kilometres. Along the way you’ll pass gorgeous lakes and plains. Remember to book a panoramic seat so you can fully admire the graceful Lake Brienz and Lake Thun.
P.S. The exterior of the GoldenPass trains looks like any ordinary train.
Panoramic carriages have reserved seats, and ticket inspectors come by from time to time.
On the way to Interlaken, every view is a lovely scene.
When you reach Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, you can see many holidaymakers along the shore. If you have enough time, it’s worth staying for a couple of days.
The colour of the lake changes section by section; every stretch offers a slightly different view.
Interlaken has two train stations. Most trains stop at Interlaken Ost, shown in the photo below. The other station, Interlaken West, is just over a kilometre away. Trains to Jungfraujoch and Schilthorn both depart from Interlaken Ost, and there are lockers here – very convenient.
It takes roughly 15 minutes to walk from the station to the main street, Höheweg. There are no slopes, so it’s easy with luggage. On a pleasantly cool summer day, the street is particularly lively. I truly loved this route from the station to the hotel; the scenery is a little different at dawn and dusk.
In the morning, everything is bright and sunny, lush green, blue sky and white clouds, the air fresh.
At dusk, gazing at the Jungfrau in the distance, bathed in a soft golden sunset.
We stayed at the Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa Interlaken. It’s pricey and hard to book, but the location is outstanding – the balcony of our room faced the Jungfrau directly.
We arrived at a beautiful sunset, around 8 p.m. in summer. Sitting on the balcony, the view was stunning. Downstairs were lively restaurants and bars.
Let me introduce the hotel: it lies right at the foot of the Jungfrau, so the scenery needs no explanation. This is a place offering high-end spa treatments, luxurious beauty services, and a superb swimming pool. The style is palatial and classic; the public areas are resplendent, but the rooms are quite ordinary, small, and crucially there’s no air conditioning in summer – only an electric fan, so it gets hot and stuffy.
Take a casual look at the room – it’s pretty basic, except for the view from the balcony.
Sitting on the balcony with a bite to eat under the moonlight in the evening is rather nice, though it’s still hot in summer.
At dawn, sit on the balcony and watch the sunrise, wait for the Jungfrau to come into sharper focus, and breathe the fresh air.
The pool is especially beautiful. Make sure to go in the early morning when there’s no one around. Soak comfortably in the warm water and enjoy the view.
The best part of the hotel is the breakfast – the variety goes without saying – and the restaurant’s location is first-rate. Best to sit outdoors, where the sun isn’t too strong and a little breeze blows. One colourful paraglider after another drifts by right in front of you; it feels absolutely wonderful.
Many small towns around Interlaken are famous – Wengen, Grindelwald, Mürren, Spiez. When you visit Jungfraujoch, you can also stay in one of them. Each place has its own character and you can try paragliding. If you have plenty of time, explore them one by one. It was our first trip, so we chose the simplest route: take the mountain train from Interlaken Ost up to Jungfraujoch, then return the same way, leaving those villages for another visit.
The Jungfraujoch needs little introduction. At 4,158 metres above sea level, you take a cogwheel train to a height of 3,454 metres, the highest railway station in the world. I can’t remember the price, but a Swiss Pass gives you a discount – and even with the discount, it’s still very expensive.
Before heading up, check the official website where a 24-hour webcam lets you see the weather conditions at the top at any time. If it’s overcast, rainy or snowy, don’t bother going – you’ll hardly see anything, and the trip isn’t cheap. You can pick up a mountain train timetable when you buy your ticket at the station, or refer to my itinerary later. The ride takes two hours each way, with two changes en route. There’s almost no walking; everything is well arranged. Going down also takes exactly two hours. Allow two to three hours at the top; you can grab a quick meal. Even though the Jungfraujoch is at high altitude, altitude sickness is almost non-existent.
Take a look at this timetable for reference. The first train starts climbing gently into the mountains; you can open the window and the air is superb.
For the following two sections, the train is mostly inside tunnels so you can’t see much. When you reach the very top, the viewing platform isn’t very big. Because it’s summer, there isn’t much snow, but the clouds are beautiful. The view over Lauterbrunnen is stunning too, but a phone camera can’t capture it – you just have to take it in.
The temperature on the mountain is around zero degrees Celsius. It’s bearable under the strong sun, but the Ice Palace is extremely cold.
The viewing platform has a small café; the food tastes and costs about the same as IKEA. It’s a nice spot to rest with a cup of coffee.
When coming down, you could actually spend a night in Grindelwald; the surrounding area is full of places worth exploring.
Schilthorn – at 2,970 metres above sea level, it’s near the Jungfraujoch. We kept debating whether to go. That year, there was a Swiss Pass promotion offering free entry, and the weather in Interlaken was gloriously good over those two days, so we decided to take the cable car and experience it.
But a word of caution: don’t try to do both mountains on the same day – there simply isn’t enough time. To really enjoy it, you could easily spend three to four days in Interlaken.
Again, from Interlaken Ost, take the train to Lauterbrunnen, then switch to a bus to the Stechelberg cable car station to begin the Schilthorn gondola journey. Along the way there are three stops – Gimmelwald, Mürren and Birg – and you change cable cars three times. It sounds complicated, but everything connects seamlessly, so don’t worry. One thing to note: when changing cable cars, the up and down platforms are together, so be careful not to go the wrong way. Of course, you can’t get the direction wrong with your ticket – one ticket is valid for one direction only – but because it was free that day, I did go the wrong way. I was supposed to be going down but ended up going up again, and almost missed the train to Bern.
The cable cars are large and can squeeze in lots of people, so even though they climb steeply, it’s not scary at all. Allow plenty of time to look around at each connection point.
Because of summer, there wasn’t much snow on the mountain, but the weather was still stunning – the sky was a pure blue.
After descending from Schilthorn, our Interlaken stay was over. Two days were too rushed; we’ll just have to savour it more next time.
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Section 2: Sunset on Lake Geneva and a Morning at Chillon Castle
Lake Geneva is called Lac Léman. Montreux lies on its eastern shore, with a pleasant climate, vast shimmering waters – a renowned holiday retreat.
First, a quick interlude about Bern. After coming down from Schilthorn, I had taken the wrong cable car, so time was tight. I pulled off a whirlwind operation in seven minutes: dashed out of the cable car, ran through the underpass to the locker to grab our luggage, stripped off our ski jackets and stuffed them into the suitcases, then hauled two large suitcases back through the underpass to another platform – all to catch the train to Bern…
We had planned a pleasant few hours in Bern, but when we arrived it was 3 p.m., the temperature was over 38°C, and the sun beat down so fiercely that we immediately gave up. We just strolled around near the station.
Bern is undeniably a garden city – clean, fresh – just far too hot.
We could at least say we’d been there, then set off for Montreux. We needed to arrive in time for sunset – the famous sunset over the lake wasn’t to be missed.
Let me introduce our hotel in Montreux – Eurotel Montreux, a Lake View Grand Double Room with Balcony.
The hotel sits right on the lakeside. The view is, needless to say, wonderful, but the room itself is just okay – not large, and soundproofing isn’t great. Still, value for money is high. You can stroll along the lake straight to Chillon Castle, so I’d highly recommend it.
In the evening, from our hotel room we could see the lake view and the slowly sinking sun, with a sense of “reluctant to see the sunset westward leaning.”
The hotel has a ground-floor open-air restaurant right by the lake. Sitting under quiet parasols on sofas, sipping a fine drink, admiring the calm lake and the sunset – the whole atmosphere surpasses any taste bud.
After dinner, with a last afterglow and lingering light, take a romantic walk along the lake holding the hand of someone you love. It is truly “the moon hangs above the willow, two lovers meet at dusk.”
Besides its sunsets, Lake Geneva is also incomparably enchanting in the early morning. Having breakfast by the lake, the water so still it’s like a watercolour painting.
From the hotel, you can walk or take a bus to the famous Chillon Castle – a must-see in Montreux.
As one of Europe’s top ten castles, Chillon Castle was built on a rock along Lake Geneva, surrounded by the beautiful lake and the majestic Alps. From afar it appears to float on the water. Standing before it, it’s hard to imagine this was once a medieval defensive fortress, guarding the strategic Alpine gateway. It once served as a prison, an arsenal, and has been battered by the winds of time.
Early in the morning, Chillon Castle is truly beautiful – weathered yet resilient with a sense of unyielding strength.
First, a look at the model overview.
This stone castle isn’t big. In the morning there are few visitors, so you can examine it in detail.
It really does resemble a solid cage.
Through gaps in the stone walls of some rooms, you can glimpse the lovely scenery outside. This reminds me of the Bridge of Sighs in Venice – one look through the window at the outside world… Why are European prisons always set in such beautiful places?
Coming out of the castle, bright sunshine had already flooded the outside. I couldn’t resist snapping a few more photos – it was just too beautiful.
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Section 3: Lucerne – come here to find your light
I’m full of admiration for whoever came up with those poetic names – like “Firenze” for Florence and “Lucerne” being called “Luzern” – a name that perfectly reflects its noble elegance. Lucerne means “light” in Latin, so come here to find your light. You will not be disappointed.
Lucerne was my second stop in Switzerland. First, I arrived in Paris for a connecting flight, but a heavy thunderstorm caused a delay. In Zurich there were scattered showers. When I got to Lucerne around noon on the first day, it was still drizzling and overcast, so we rested at the hotel first. We chose a hotel near the train station – Ameron Hotel Flora Luzern. Its location is great – very close to Chapel Bridge and the Water Tower, just a two- or three-minute walk. Very convenient.
The hotel is a bit like a Holiday Inn Express type; rooms are simple.
On first arriving in Lucerne, the sights that came to mind were: Chapel Bridge and the Water Tower, the Lion Monument, the Musegg Wall…
Must-do experiences include a boat trip plus a mountain excursion. The mountain routes are Mount Rigi, the “Queen of the Mountains,” or Mount Pilatus’s “Golden Round Trip.” If you have enough time, you can also plan a visit to Mount Titlis. But it’s impossible to do them all at once. I only had two days, so I chose the classic first-timer route.
When we set out on the first afternoon, the rain was still coming and going. Chapel Bridge and the Water Tower looked very gloomy. But luckily, that very evening the sun burst out enthusiastically. Let me give two comparison photos – one rainy, one sunny – so you can see just how much the weather affects the scenery.
Chapel Bridge and the octagonal Water Tower often appear on postcards and have long become iconic Swiss landmarks. The bridge was actually a military watchtower; it’s only about 200 metres long. The water tower was part of the water defence works.
If you enjoy religion and history, under the eaves of the bridge there are hundreds of religious and historical paintings on the beams, depicting the patron saints of Lucerne and the development of the old town. The bridge connects both banks of Lucerne. The old town is quaint and authentic, and not large. Europe is full of such cities – Prague, Budapest, Vienna – all walkable and worthy of discovery on foot.
After wandering the old town, it was time to head up Mount Rigi. Swiss transport is incredibly convenient; trains, boats, and cable cars all connect seamlessly. A single app, SBB Mobile, can find all routes and they’re punctual. From near Lucerne station, we took a boat to Vitznau, then a mountain train uphill. The little train is very pretty.
The scenery along the train route is idyllic and poetic.
At the summit, you can take in a panoramic view of the lake. As evening approached 7 p.m., the weather was gradually clearing. That fresh blue-green palette after the rain and the invigorating air were so healing.
We returned the same way down the mountain and stopped at Vitznau pier. We had originally planned to stay there, but for convenience chose the station area instead. Vitznau is a beautiful and wealthy resort area – definitely to be booked for next time.
Back in the old town, the weather had turned fine. There might have been a weekend music festival; the square was packed with people. With no restaurant reservation we just grabbed a casual bite. The pizza and ham were surprisingly tasty.
After dinner it was almost 9 p.m. We wanted to head back early to sleep off the jet lag, expecting the next day to be a fine one. But stepping outside we were astonished – the sun was so bright it was almost alarming. It was as if the day’s wind and rain had never happened. It was so gorgeous we no longer felt like sleeping.
The first day in Lucerne filled me with endless wonder. The second day dawned with cloudless skies, and we set off again bathed in sunlight.
Hotels in Switzerland usually give you a free bus ticket when you check in, but with a Swiss Pass you don’t need it – you can use all public transport. First thing, we passed the Water Tower; no matter how you looked at it, it was beautiful.
The Lion Monument is also within walking distance, about a kilometre away, 15 minutes.
The Lion Monument – erected in memory of the 786 Swiss Guards and military officers who died protecting King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace during the French Revolution in 1792. It is a plea for world peace.
The American writer Mark Twain described the “dying lion of Lucerne” as “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.” An inscription below recounts the events, but because a pond separates you, you can only sense the sorrow from a distance.
Don’t forget to save some time in Lucerne for a lakeside walk. Empty your mind and soak in a little of the Swiss leisurely style.
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Section 4: Zurich – Europe’s city of billionaires
We only came to Zurich for a transit flight, so there wasn’t any particular sight we aimed for. What I remember best is Augustinergasse, a street steeped in local history. The cobblestone lane is lined with beautifully preserved historic buildings, colourful little houses each flying the Swiss flag, full of romantic nostalgia.
Augustinergasse is right next to Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world’s most exclusive shopping streets.
The old town is perfect for wandering with no set route. As you walk, you’ll stumble upon a viewpoint.
Zurich is very old; its buildings are steeped in rich historical charm.
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Section 5: Geneva – a whistle-stop tour to tick the boxes
Like Zurich, we visited Geneva mainly as a stopover for the train to Paris. We used half a day to tick off the famous landmarks.
Palais des Nations – the former headquarters of the League of Nations and now the European headquarters of the United Nations, situated on the shores of Lake Geneva in the northeast suburb of the city… When we arrived at noon it was closed for lunch.
In the square in front of the Palais stands the sculpture “Broken Chair” by Geneva artist Daniel Berset. Created in 1997 at the request of the International Committee of the Red Cross to highlight the suffering of civilians caused by landmines in war, it prompts reflection on war and peace.
The weather was really hot. Strolling along Lake Geneva past the Jardin Anglais, we solved our lunch problem on a shady lawn.
Switzerland’s reputation as a garden city is well-earned; greenery, flowers and fountains are everywhere.
The Flower Clock – said to be the mother of all flower clocks. The combination of flowers and a clock epitomizes Geneva’s title as the capital of watchmaking and has become a symbol of the city.
It was relatively cool along Lake Geneva. The Jet d’Eau fountain even offered a hint of coolness. The sky was so blue; a casual snap turned out a beautiful picture.
We had booked a 5:38 p.m. train to Paris, and by just before 9 p.m. we could be enjoying dinner at our hotel.
Let me summarise the Switzerland itinerary first. This is a basic first-time itinerary suited for those short on time. Notes:
1) Download SBB Mobile – this app is incredibly useful, covering all Swiss public transport, including air, land and water, with real-time updates.
2) Swiss Pass – it is pricey but truly convenient. You don’t waste time constantly buying tickets, and many attractions offer a discount. Options include 3, 4, 6, 8 and 15-day passes. 4 or 6 days are most practical. Time it carefully; I chose a 4-day pass, costing about 1,900 RMB.
3) You can use the Swiss Pass on the GoldenPass trains, but you need to reserve and pay extra for a panoramic seat.
4) Some tickets, such as GoldenPass panoramic tickets, must be paper, so be sure to bring them.
5) Check the official websites of places like Jungfraujoch ahead of time for all kinds of information. Timetables should be prepared in advance, and have a couple of backup plans in case you need to adapt on the day.
Right, the train to Paris is departing. Next stop, here we come~
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Section 6: Three days in Paris – shopping and sights, best of both
Compared with Switzerland, Paris is, well, dirty and chaotic, but the romance and refinement ingrained in the French reveal themselves everywhere on the streets.
Over a decade ago, I visited France with my family and didn’t appreciate it at all. A colleague told me it was because I went with the wrong people. So this time, with my loved one, every landmark had to be revisited.
There are many hotels in Paris; I chose the InterContinental because it’s only 200 metres from Galeries Lafayette – perfect for shopping. Note that trains from Geneva arrive at Gare de Lyon. Don’t book too late a train; it’s best to arrive in daylight as the area isn’t very safe. It was summer, and at 8:30 p.m. it was still light, so we took a taxi straight to the hotel.
The InterContinental is a storied five-star. Let me share the pros and cons after three nights:
Pros:
1) Excellent location, easy to get around. An airport bus line, metro and buses direct to the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower and other major sights, all close by. A taxi ride is also affordable. Galeries Lafayette and Printemps are 200 metres away; you can always drop off your shopping.
2) The hotel’s public areas are luxurious, palatial and dazzling, especially the Café de la Paix where we had breakfast. Just having breakfast there every day felt like we’d gotten our money’s worth.
3) Service is also good. If you have €500 notes, remember to exchange them at the front desk; shops generally don’t accept them and it’s hard to find a place to change.
Cons: The room is genuinely small and simply furnished; perhaps the money all went into the exterior decoration.
First, a glimpse of the very ordinary room.
The view from the window is also very ordinary.
Now look at the lobby and corridors – instantly much more elegant.
The finest part of the hotel – Café de la Paix, in business since 1862, with the graceful style of France’s Second Empire, richly and solemnly decorated with gold columns and vast murals. Victor Hugo, Maupassant, Flaubert and other luminaries were regulars here.
Breakfast – so many choices, incredibly rich.
Lunch – no oysters in season, and seafood wasn’t at its best, so it was quite simple.
Afternoon tea – no time to sample, but the setting is elegant. Spending your days sipping coffee, enjoying afternoon tea and lavish seafood feasts in such a place – no wonder inspiration flowed and so many great works were written.
Even dining in-room was full of ceremony.
Speaking of romantic Parisian spots, Montmartre and the Wall of Love are must-visits. Suggest going early in the morning for fewer crowds and relative safety.
Coming out of the metro, you’ll see a cute carousel and the red-brick Saint-Jean de Montmartre church.
A few steps further and you’ll find the “Wall of Love,” composed of 511 dark blue rectangular tiles. Written in 311 typefaces and 280 languages, the wall is covered with “I love you.” Take a photo in front of it – the sense of ceremony is complete.
Then climb the stairs; it’s tiring, but luckily you can enjoy the various graffiti along the way.
At the top, both sides of the street are lined with cafés and street artists’ gathering spots.
If you have time, explore Place du Tertre, visit the Montmartre Museum, the former home of painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and also Au Lapin Agile, where Picasso once offered a painting in lieu of paying for his drinks – a painting that later sold for US$40 million.
Keep going and you reach Sacré-Cœur, the highest point in Paris at 129 metres. From a distance, the basilica looks stately and splendid, with its distinctive white domes – a mix of Romanesque and Byzantine styles.
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are a place you can sit for a long time. I didn’t want to leave.
From the square, the view over Paris is simply magnificent.
Incidentally, there are plenty of heavily armed police here; public safety is actually quite good.
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Strolling along the Champs-Élysées from the Arc de Triomphe all the way to the Louvre, Paris sizzled like fire under the blazing summer sun.
Here’s a then-and-now photo across a decade: the Arc de Triomphe remains, and so do I.
I wonder if the Abercrombie & Fitch on the Champs-Élysées is still there?
We found a Ladurée and went in to refuel. You’ll never worry about going hungry on the Champs-Élysées – it’s a dazzling feast of choices.
