Southern Europe Travel Diary
The main countries we visited were Spain, Lisbon in Portugal, and Paris in France. Due to business, we also passed through Belgium and northern France.
Travel style: We booked a private tour for three through a travel agency recommended by a friend. It was a European agency specializing in high-end, select tours. The overall experience was good, but the price was high. The tour fee for three was over 120,000 RMB, not including round-trip flights from China to Europe or meals. The car rental was 6,550 EUR, plus an additional 1,150 EUR for the driver’s meals and accommodation. The experience was fine, though we felt we could have traveled independently; many city attractions are close together, but you need English skills.
1. Documents: Visa and flight tickets (arranged 1 month in advance), passport, hotel and flight booking confirmations, etc.
(We used the travel agency for this, as we had trouble getting it on our own; the agency handled it quickly.)
2. Clothing: Check the weather in advance. We went on September 27th. Spain was very hot, around 27°C, so summer clothes were needed, but mornings and evenings were cooler. France was a bit cooler, but summer clothes were still fine.
3. Photography equipment: If you bring a drone, you need an EU drone license first; look up other requirements yourself. I didn’t have an EU license this time and my flying skills weren’t great, so I left it behind, which was a bit of a pity.
4. Mobile apps: Download the Google Play Store in advance (some attractions have electronic guides that require downloading an app from there), Google Maps (Baidu Maps also covers Europe), translation apps. If traveling independently, download hotel booking apps.
5. European plug adapter: Sockets in Europe are different from those in China.
6. European SIM card for easy internet access.
7. Toiletries: Many European hotels don’t provide disposable items for environmental reasons.
8. If you want hot water, bring a thermos. If you can’t get used to Western food, bring a portable pot to cook your own meals.
We were on a tour, and the accommodation provided was at least 3-star. Overall, it was clean and fine, averaging around 200 EUR per night. All hotels had breakfast. Note that due to environmental policies, many European hotels don’t provide disposable items like toothbrushes, toothpaste, and slippers, but they do have shower gel and shampoo.
Hotel breakfasts were typically Western. This trip got me into butter.
Their machines were very convenient, dispensing coffee, milk, water, and more.
Europe is mainly about Western food, but each country has its nuances. Spanish portions are generally huge (for a southerner like me; northern Chinese might manage). One steak is equal to two portions in China (by southern restaurant standards), and it’s very thick. Spain and Portugal were the cheapest among developed European countries, with meals averaging 10-20 EUR per person. In France, portions were smaller and prices higher, around 20-30 EUR per person.
There are Chinese restaurants in Europe, too, generally more expensive than Western ones of the same level, but high-end Chinese restaurants are rare there, while Western fine dining is common, making top Western restaurants the priciest. Fast food like McDonald’s and Pizza Hut is cheap, 4-10 EUR per meal; it’s a bit more at airports, e.g., a meal set at Barcelona airport cost over 10 EUR. Supermarket bread is even cheaper—in central Madrid, a bread roll costs a few cents or 1 EUR.
Costs: Due to exchange rates, traveling in Europe is definitely expensive. Our tour fee was over 120,000 RMB for three. Since we booked flights late, round-trip tickets cost 50,000 RMB. Meals and incidentals cost 12,000 RMB.
Spain covers over 500,000 square kilometers, with a population of 48.2 million (over 50 million tourists visit each year). Located in the southwestern Iberian Peninsula of Southern Europe, it borders Portugal to the west and France to the north, and is surrounded by sea on three sides. The terrain is mostly plateau. The climate is mainly temperate continental and temperate maritime. We went on September 27th this year, and it was very hot, around 27°C. The official language is Spanish. Spaniards are passionate and exuberant, love bullfighting, are devoted to flamenco, and Spain is the home of the guitar. The country is rich in produce, especially olives—we saw endless olive groves along the roads. Being surrounded by the sea, seafood is abundant. Specialties include ham, paella, tapas, sherry, etc.
In prehistoric times, archaeological guesses suggest Africans might have crossed the Strait of Gibraltar while chasing game, arriving in Spain. Over time, outsiders invaded, mainly Romans and then Moors (Muslims, including Berbers, Arabs, and Jews) who ruled for a long time. At the height of Moorish rule, the Caliphate of Córdoba split into several kingdoms. Christian Romans fought back and reclaimed Toledo. The marriage of Isabella I and Ferdinand II united the two kingdoms into a single Spain. In 1492, Isabella I funded Columbus’s voyage, leading to the discovery of the New World, after which Spain began colonizing Latin America and became a maritime hegemon in the 15th and early 16th centuries. From the late 16th and 17th centuries, Spain declined after repeated defeats by England and France. In 1700, Maria, a Spanish princess, married Philip V (grandson of Louis XIV), bringing rule to the French Bourbon family. Philip V’s wars over the throne with France and Austria caused Spain to lose much territory. Later, Napoleon invaded Spain, causing it to lose most overseas colonies. After the Spanish-American War, Spain lost all remaining colonies. In 1837, Isabel II enacted a constitutional monarchy bill and officially unified the country, naming it ‘España’ (meaning ‘rabbit’), ending over 300 years of personal union. Although the monarchy was restored several times, today Spain is a constitutional monarchy.
Spain is also a country rich in culture and art. It boasts the world-famous author of Don Quixote, Cervantes; architectural master Antoni Gaudí; painters Picasso, Dalí, Goya; sports star Nadal, and many others.
Modern Spaniards are rather laid-back, considered the laziest in Europe. Their schedule is very relaxed: work starts at 10 am, break for lunch from 2 to 5 pm, and finish at 8 pm. Our guide said that ordinary Spaniards earn just over 1,000 EUR a month, civil servants about 4,000 EUR, while blue-collar workers doing physical labor earn more, like bus or truck drivers who might make over 6,000 EUR. However, Spain and Portugal have the lowest living costs among developed European countries. Supermarket prices are generally just a few euros or less: a Coke a few cents or 1 EUR, bread a few cents, vegetables 1–3 EUR per kilo, snacks and toiletries from a few cents to 2–3 EUR. In Madrid, you can supposedly buy an apartment for over 100,000 EUR. So with such low prices, a salary of 1,000 EUR is more than enough, making life comfortable and leading to a relaxed, unhurried attitude—no need for cut-throat competition.
Due to history, 96% of Spaniards are Catholic. Catholicism is one of the three major branches of Christianity (along with Eastern Orthodoxy and Protestantism). The split came after the Roman Empire divided into Eastern and Western empires, creating Eastern Orthodoxy in the east and Catholicism in the west. Orthodoxy’s leader is the patriarch, but the Pope rejected this, leading to a complete schism. Later, the Reformation spawned further splinters, Protestantism, which removed some sections of the Bible. Many Christians in China are now Protestant. Protestantism is mainly in Northern Europe, Orthodoxy mainly in Eastern Europe, and Catholicism has the largest following, primarily in Southern and Western Europe.
Recommended documentaries about Spain: BBC’s The Art of Spain, and also Don Quixote.
Brussels is home to the headquarters of the EU and NATO; its airport is very busy.
Driving to the suburbs, I loved the houses along the road—many pretty little villas, each unique, with lovely pastoral scenery.
Dining at a hotel in Belgium: The pasta was delicious, and the burgers were huge but a bit salty. Overall, food here tends to be saltier (I prefer a lighter taste).
The only Chinese phrase at Madrid airport.
Lunch in Madrid: Western food. This fish was incredibly fatty—one bite felt like pure oil.
Travel proper began the next afternoon. First stop: the Royal Palace of Madrid.
Royal Palace of Madrid (recommended visit time: 1 day with guided tour)
The Royal Palace of Madrid is the third-largest palace in Europe, after Versailles and Schönbrunn. In the 9th century, it was a fortress of Arab rulers, later reclaimed by Christians and used as a royal residence. A fire in 1734 destroyed the castle, and the present palace was rebuilt by Philip V of the Bourbon dynasty, completed in 1764. His son Charles III was the first to live there. The statue below the palace is of Charles III.
The architecture blends traditional Spanish royal and Baroque styles, with interior decor mainly Italian. Stepping inside, the glittering palace is stunningly opulent. Unfortunately, photography isn’t allowed inside elsewhere.
There are many rooms, similar to Versailles in function and decor. The banquet hall was especially memorable—it’s where the king receives foreign leaders, and the entire room is covered in gold, shimmering with luxury. The guide said the floor tiles with various curved patterns were all hand-ground and pieced together, an incredibly complex feat even by modern standards. One room even had a ceiling fresco depicting Chinese stories.
The four corners of this photo represent four goddesses: earth, water, wind, and fire.
Almost every room features intricate and detailed decoration on floors, walls, and ceilings. Ceilings usually have frescoes and plaster moldings, walls have plaster and paneling, all gilded. The bathrooms also displayed porcelain learned from China, using Chinese techniques but in European-style decorative items.
The Royal Palace is no longer a royal residence, but it is still used for state occasions. When the king is present, a flag is raised on the roof.
Plaza de España is a square in central Madrid, filled with tourists and locals relaxing. Its most famous feature is the statue of Cervantes with his characters Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. I only learned here that “Don” is a Spanish honorific, so the correct translation is “Sir Quixote.”
There are street performers and small shops selling snacks.
The building at Plaza de España was reportedly bought by Wang Jianlin for a Wanda development, but Madrid locals fiercely protested, so he sold it at a low price. In many European countries, urban development happens in the suburbs, leaving old city centers untouched, as people have deep emotional ties to them.
This is the busiest street in downtown Madrid.
Near Plaza de España is an ancient Egyptian temple in a park, where many people sit on the grass, chatting and enjoying the day.
That evening, we ate at a Chinese restaurant nearby—110 EUR for four people, much pricier than Western food.
Prado Museum (recommended visit time: 1–2 days with guided tour)
The Prado is Spain’s art temple, enormous and breathtaking. Its jewel is Las Meninas by Velázquez, who pioneered a technique simulating human vision—central sharpness, peripheral blur. Meanwhile, the artist painted the princess from the king’s viewpoint, with the royal couple reflected in a mirror, a very clever composition.
Another memorable work is Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights, warning of the consequences of greed. Goya’s The Naked Maja boldly challenges puritanism. The subject was a wealthy merchant’s wife; Goya, struck by her beauty, painted her from memory. When the husband found out, Goya quickly painted The Clothed Maja, avoiding trouble. Still, the nude version is more captivating.
Early art, especially in medieval times, served religion, so many works are religious. We learned some Christian stories: the Annunciation (the angel telling Mary she would bear God’s son), the Trinity (Father, Son, and Holy Spirit represented as a dove), Christ’s crucifixion, and so on. Paintings conveyed religious messages. Photography isn’t allowed, so I have no pictures.
The museum is vast, and we had only two hours with a guide to see key works. We also noticed groups of preschoolers from local schools, led by teachers, visiting museums—getting early exposure to art. No wonder Europe is an art haven.
Outside the museum, street performers entertain—there are many such artists across Europe.
Retiro Park (recommended visit time: half a day)
Retiro Park was built by Philip IV as a royal retreat and later turned public. It’s beautiful and huge, featuring the Crystal Palace and an artificial lake. You can easily spend most of a day relaxing here.
Plaza Mayor & San Miguel Market (recommended visit time: 3 hours including a meal)
In the afternoon, we went to Plaza Mayor, full of small shops and eateries. We ate there: the steak, cooked medium-well, was excellent; the paella was a bit salty. We tried a local specialty drink and Coke.
In Europe, Coke usually comes with ice and lemon—very refreshing. This meal cost 56 EUR.
Near Plaza Mayor is San Miguel Market, where we sampled tapas—bread topped with various goodies, many flavors.
Puerta del Sol (recommended visit time: 1 hour)
Puerta del Sol is semi-circular; from above, the streets radiate like sun rays, hence the name. The square has a clock tower; on New Year’s Eve, people gather here to hear the midnight chimes and eat 12 grapes for good luck each month.
There’s a statue of Charles III and a “Kilometer Zero” marker—all Spanish road distances are measured from here, and Madrid’s house numbering starts here.
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree statue is the symbol of Madrid.
Toledo (recommended visit time: 1 day)
Toledo is over 2,000 years old, having been a Roman city, Visigoth capital, Cordoban stronghold, frontline between Christians and Moors, and temporary seat of power under Charles V. It nurtured three civilizations—Jewish, Christian, and Islamic—coexisting. Toledo was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986.
Viewing Toledo from a distance, surrounded by the river, one appreciates the ancients’ site selection. Inside, the streets and buildings are all stone; no wonder they’ve lasted millennia. In contrast, Chinese architecture is often wood, and many palaces were burned with each dynasty change, which is a pity.
This is also where Don Quixote set off; many shops sell related souvenirs.
Here, too, is the pinnacle of Gothic art: Toledo Cathedral. We happened to catch a performance.
Windmill Town (recommended visit time: 0.5 hour)
This was a spontaneous addition by our guide—a niche spot, and the place where Don Quixote fought the windmills. The windmills were once mills, using wind to grind wheat.
Lunch at the foot of the hill: a huge, thick steak, equal to two portions back home.
In the evening, we reached Córdoba and checked into a lovely local hotel.
Great Mosque of Córdoba (recommended visit time: 1 day with guided tour plus town)
The Great Mosque is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the second-largest mosque in the world. Built by the Moorish ruler Abd al-Rahman, it consists of the orange tree courtyard and the prayer hall. After 1236, it was converted into a Catholic church, adding Gothic and Renaissance elements to the original Moorish style—a project that took 240 years.
Inside, many arches are topped with semi-circles, with heavy tops on slender columns to save space for worshippers.
Because religion held such importance, religious buildings were often the wealthiest and most lavish.
The streets of Córdoba, with white walls, yellow trim, and arched motifs, reflect Muslim influence, giving an exotic feel.
The Roman Bridge here was once the city entrance.
Ronda Cliffside Town (recommended visit time: 1 day)
Ronda is Hemingway’s “perfect place for an elopement.” Its white town sits atop a dramatic cliff, utterly unique.
The Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) spans the gorge, connecting the old town. From a path below, you can get a photo of the bridge.
Dinner in Ronda: McDonald’s. The burgers are a bit bigger than in China.
Ronda bullring is the birthplace of bullfighting. Spanish bullfighting originated from ancient religious rituals of slaughtering bulls as offerings, evolving into spectacle. Spain now has over 300 rings. The round building can seat 5,000, with a museum displaying costumes and history. Though we didn’t see a fight, simply learning about it felt bloody and cruel—I’m glad we missed it. It reminded me of ancient Chinese emperors going on hunts as entertainment, a conquest over nature.
Alcázar of Seville (recommended visit time: half a day with audio guide)
Built in the 14th century under Pedro I, and a Game of Thrones filming location. We rented an audio guide, which wasn’t great. The palace is stunning, with many palm trees—typical for Seville.
I nearly lost my phone here. A foreign girl found it and called; despite the language barrier, she luckily met a Chinese person who helped communicate, and I got it back. Incredible luck!
Seville Cathedral (recommended visit time: half a day with guide)
One of the world’s three largest cathedrals, it was a mosque converted into a Gothic Catholic church. The interior is sumptuous, with many frescoes. The main altarpiece depicts 36 scenes of Christ’s birth, passion, and death, lavishly decorated.
The sacristy holds Goya’s Saints Justa and Rufina, once torn and visibly repaired. The Giralda tower, originally a minaret, is 98 meters tall; you can climb ramps (once ridden by horses) for city views—easier than stairs.
A bell sits at the top.
Dinner nearby: oxtail stew, quite similar to Chinese braised beef.
Gelato at a famous century-old shop: the milk flavor was excellent.
In the evening, we watched a flamenco performance near the cathedral. “Flamenco” comes from Arabic for “fugitive peasant,” originating with the Romani people (possibly from Iran, known as Bohemians) who arrived in Spain, blending Indian and Arab dance influences. The Romani’s nomadic, free-spirited nature is reflected in the passionate, improvisational dance, often accompanied by guitar. Flamenco also describes a lifestyle of freedom and pleasure.
Seville is the birthplace of flamenco. It was my first time, and I could feel the Spaniards’ warmth and directness. The sharp footwork, like tap, and large, rhythmic movements stood out. The stage had three musicians—singer, guitarist, and percussionist—plus three dancers (two women, one man), all perfectly in sync. The swirling dresses were gorgeous.
Metropol Parasol (recommended visit time: 1 hour)
A modern structure built in 2011, shaped like umbrellas or mushrooms, known as “Las Setas de la Encarnación,” one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.
Plaza de España (recommended visit time: half a day or more)
The most beautiful square I’ve ever seen: a curved classical building, emerald lakes, delicate arched bridges, vast woodlands, fountains, swans, ducks—absolutely stunning.
Afternoon departure for Lisbon.
Belém Tower & Monument to the Discoveries (recommended visit time: 2 hours; you can play around or take a boat, but boats require reservation)
Belém Tower, by the sea, witnessed countless departures and returns during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Built in 1520 as a defense, it later served as customs, a telegraph station, and a lighthouse. Nearby is the Monument to the Discoveries, commemorating the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry the Navigator’s death. Shaped like a caravel, it faces the sea, with statues of Henry, Vasco da Gama, and 80 other sailors, including generals, missionaries, and scientists.
Here you see Portugal’s past glory. In the 15th–16th centuries, Portugal was a maritime empire, the original “sun never sets” nation, with colonies worldwide, including Macau. This map shows all former colonies. Portugal itself is only 92,000 sq km, yet its empire once surpassed China’s size. With a tiny population now just over 10 million, it’s awe-inspiring that such a small country once held such power.
Portugal is also the home of the egg tart. Near here, we visited a century-old bakery for authentic pastéis de nata. The shop dates from 1837. The tarts and other sweets were extremely sweet—at least twice as sweet as back home in Hubei; even I, a tart lover, found them a bit too much.
On the way, we passed the Jerónimos Monastery.
Cabo da Roca (recommended visit time: 0.5 hour)
Europe’s westernmost point, inscribed with poet Camões’ words: “Onde a terra se acaba e o mar começa” (Where the land ends and the sea begins). Note: it’s very windy and chilly.
On the return, we took another route along the Atlantic coast, with many seagulls.
Our guide added a stop at a seaside town; we enjoyed gelato at another century-old shop—delicious.
Castelo de São Jorge (recommended visit time: 2 hours)
An ancient castle and the highest point in the Alfama district, it was a Moorish stronghold in Lisbon. Cannons remain, and the view over Lisbon is perfect for surveillance.
Lots of peacocks here.
Rua Augusta (recommended visit time: half a day)
Lisbon’s vibrant street, facing the sea. Walking in, you find shops, and the Elevador de Santa Justa offers panoramic views. We also rode the historic Tram 28. Our guide’s inexperience made this the worst part of the trip. Note: you don’t need to queue at the terminal—board at any stop. The terminal line can be over an hour; anywhere else, no wait. Also, no need to ride end-to-end; the whole route is 40+ minutes, a waste of time. We ended up at the terminus, lost, hungry, exhausted—total ordeal: 3 hours, no seats.
Flew from Lisbon straight to Barcelona, arriving at sunset. We went up to the Sagrat Cor church.
Sagrat Cor (recommended visit time: 0.5 hour)
A Catholic church on a hilltop, offering a panoramic view of Barcelona. The sunset painted the church golden. We arrived after closing, so couldn’t take the elevator.
Great sunset spot.
Casa Batlló (recommended visit time: 2 hours with audio guide)
An apartment building by Gaudí, telling a tale: a princess trapped by a dragon, rescued by Saint George, who slays the beast; the dragon’s blood turns to roses, which the saint gives to the princess. The façade’s colorful ceramic shards resemble scales, the balconies masks. The cross-shaped chimney represents the hero; the arched roof, the dragon’s spine. Inside, sinuous forms, mushroom motifs, and skin-like walls make you feel part of the legend. Gaudí mastered light—windows are larger on lower floors, smaller above, ensuring even illumination. The central courtyard, with blue tiles, feels like undersea, a dragon’s lair.
La Rambla: a promenade with buildings on both sides, flower stalls, and restaurants. We ate at the Boqueria market (black risotto, just okay).
Columbus Monument (recommended visit time: 1.5 hours including boat ride)
At the end of La Rambla stands the Columbus Monument. Italian explorer Columbus aimed for India to buy pepper (then rare and costly in Europe). Queen Isabella pawned her jewels to fund the voyage; he accidentally discovered the New World, reshaping history. Spain thus began overseas expansion and became a maritime power. Spaniards revere Columbus—his tomb in Seville Cathedral is borne by four kings. This monument, built in 1886 for the Universal Exhibition, commemorates his contributions.
We took a 1-hour boat trip along Barcelona’s Mediterranean coast, my first time on such a cruise.
Sagrada Família (recommended visit time: half a day with guide)
Started in 1882, this Gaudí masterpiece has the Nativity façade listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally designed by another architect (who built the crypt), Gaudí took over and devoted his life to it. It remains unfinished, but he left all plans; projected completion in 2026, the centenary of his death.
The Nativity façade is rich with Biblical scenes; the opposite Passion façade and the yet-to-be-built Glory façade will be the main entrance. Stepping inside feels like a forest, with tree-like columns—Gaudí’s imagination gives every element life. His use of light is masterful, with colored glass casting different hues depending on the sun’s angle.
Picasso Museum (recommended visit time: half a day with guide)
Set in a medieval quarter with noble residences dating to the 13th century, the museum houses Picasso’s early works from Barcelona and Paris. His most famous pieces aren’t here, but there are impressive ones, notably his reinterpretation of Velázquez’s Las Meninas. One sees why my teacher said “Picasso constantly innovated”—each period’s style is distinct. Art’s value lies in innovation, especially of ideas.
Barcelona City Hall, opposite the provincial government hall. Barcelona’s wealth fueled separatism; the flag on this building is a local design.
The “Wall of Love”—hard to spot up close, clear from afar, and shows well in photos.
Barcelona Cathedral: many artists, young and old, sketch around it—a truly artsy atmosphere.
A quick photo stop at Plaza de España.
Barcelona airport is notably modern: self-service check-in, electronic boarding, auto bag-drop—minimizing staff and boosting efficiency. Even restrooms highlight development: everywhere in Europe, be it airports or highway stops, toilets have sensor faucets, soap dispensers, dryers, toilet paper, and hand towels. I never needed my own tissue.
Paris’s airport, even the restrooms, felt more stylish and opulent, with Chinese signage.
Arc de Triomphe (recommended visit time: 0.5 hour)
Built to commemorate Napoleon’s 1806 victory at Austerlitz, the arch features four giant reliefs: “The Departure,” “The Victory,” “The Peace,” and “The Resistance.”
“The Departure”: Lady Liberty brandishes a sword, urging the people forward, marking the August 10th uprising that overthrew the monarchy.
“The Victory”: Napoleon returns triumphant, crowned with laurels by a victory figure.
“The Resistance”: memorializes the French people’s defiance against the Sixth Coalition.
Many European cities have arches; this is the most famous. It faces the Champs-Élysées, which leads to Place de la Concorde, where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were executed. It was closed for Olympic preparations when we visited.
Eiffel Tower (recommended visit: half a day; elevator queues are long)
Built for the World’s Fair and the centenary of the French Revolution, the iron tower symbolized industrial might. The vast lawns are perfect for photos; waiting to ascend takes at least 1–2 hours, so we skipped it. There is an elevator.
Seine River Cruise (1 hour 20 minutes)
The Seine is Paris’s second-largest river, its banks lined with commercial and political landmarks. From the boat, you see the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Notre-Dame, Grand Palais, Petit Palais, Les Invalides, the Eiffel Tower, and more.
Pont Alexandre III, named after Russia’s Tsar Alexander III, links the Champs-Élysées to Les Invalides (Napoleon’s tomb), symbolizing Franco-Russian friendship.
Musée d’Orsay (recommended visit time: 1–2 days with guide)
If Europe is an art temple, Paris is its brightest jewel. France has so much art it’s spread across museums: pre-1848 works in the Louvre, 1848–1912 here, post-1912 at the Pompidou, plus many others.
Originally a train station built for the 1900 Exposition, the Orsay became a museum. You can still see its station heritage. It’s huge; we had a 2-hour guide and focused on highlights.
Millet’s The Angelus and The Gleaners, with peasants as subjects, show his humanity and realism.
Here is The Birth of Venus, less famous than Botticelli’s, by an unknown artist. Venus, born from the sea foam after Uranus’s castration, is the Roman goddess of love (Aphrodite in Greek), mother of Cupid.
A painting of Roman decadence: behind the debauchery loom past glories, reminiscent of the Chinese Night Revels of Han Xizai.
Manet’s The Fifer: for the first time, a figure without background or ground, breaking new ground in painting.
His notorious Luncheon on the Grass caused scandal by depicting a nude contemporary woman, but Manet wanted to show real society; it later became a masterpiece.
Monet’s Impressionism always baffled me in photos, but seeing originals revealed the magic. The key: up close, dots of paint; from afar, the image forms—our eyes participate in creation. You must see the real thing. Monet’s treatment of light and shadow is also striking: he used pale blue for shadows instead of black, achieving great realism. He deeply influenced Van Gogh.
Pointillism, an Impressionist offshoot, has finer detail, but I still prefer Monet.
Van Gogh’s Starry Night (the village scene): from a calmer period, serene and lovely, very different from his later The Starry Night.
Palace of Versailles (recommended visit time: at least 2 days with guide)
Built by Louis XIV, Versailles spans 1.1 million sqm, the world’s largest palace (Beijing’s Forbidden City is 720,000 sqm). It’s one of the five great palaces. Louis XIV, like China’s Kangxi Emperor, ascended the throne at 5, ruled a record 72 years, and built an absolute monarchy lasting until the Revolution. He waged three major wars, becoming Western Europe’s hegemon, but the cost tarnished his legacy.
Versailles exudes opulence: vast halls, gold everywhere, even the garden gate. The architecture is classical, interiors Baroque (Louis XIV) and some Rococo (Louis XV). The queen’s chambers are pure gold.
We saw two princesses’ rooms, the throne room, and a Chinese-style painting. With an audio guide, we toured over 4 hours and barely scratched the surface; the gardens alone could take two days. There’s a restaurant on site.
For lunch, we dined at a century-old French restaurant.
Foie gras – not to my taste.
Oysters – truly raw, better with lemon, but still an acquired taste.
Snails – likewise not for me.
Fish – the best dish of the meal, delicious.
Mashed potatoes – okay.
Local French wine.
I stuck with Coke.
Desserts: crème brûlée (excellent), mille-feuille (decent).
Afternoon shopping for souvenirs: chocolates, etc.
The Louvre (recommended visit time: at least 2 days with guide)
The world’s top museum (alongside the British Museum, Hermitage, Metropolitan), built in 1204 as a royal palace, now a classical gem. It’s enormous; our guide said a thorough visit could take a month.
We started in a quieter gallery. A sculpture shows Alexander the Great meeting Diogenes, who told him, “Stand out of my sunlight.” Alexander, awed, stepped aside—showing the king’s magnanimity, a lesson for rulers.
Another depicts a man who foolishly tried to split a tree, got his hand stuck, and a lion bit his behind—a warning against arrogance.
Napoleon, the towering figure of France and Europe.
The Code of Hammurabi: a stele with cuneiform from over 3,000 BCE, recording legal precedents, similar to English case law.
These are ancient job badges.
The Moabite Stone (Mesha Stele), recording Biblical wars, was smashed by discoverers who thought it worthless, but luckily, a rubbing was made; now it’s pieced together.
A 7,000-year-old standing figure from the Mediterranean, on loan.
French royal treasures: gold, silver, jewels.
A sugar box shaped like a person carrying sugarcane—delightfully detailed.
An astronomical clock with movable sun and planets—incredible.
Porcelain inspired by China, but with French flair.
A cross-legged scribe from ancient Egypt.
Akhenaten, who rejected traditional portraiture, had himself depicted in this peculiar style; the next artifact shows his real look.
A very ornate hall with crown jewels—that diamond is stunning.
Veronese’s The Wedding at Cana: Jesus turns water into wine. Interestingly, the bride and groom are tiny in the bottom left—showing humility, while Jesus is centered, haloed.
Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, the Renaissance icon, was so crowded we couldn’t get close. Breaking from medieval convention, Da Vinci painted an ordinary woman, focusing on humanity. Her eyes seem to follow you everywhere.
Pygmalion: his sculpture comes to life.
Napoleon’s Coronation: Napoleon crowns himself, ignoring the seated Pope, demonstrating his power. The central seated woman is his mother, though she was actually dead—painted in to flatter.
The Winged Victory of Samothrace (2nd century BC), a marble masterpiece of Greek art, with flowing drapery.
Venus de Milo, another Greek marble, discovered by a farmer and damaged in a tussle between French and Turks. Many Louvre treasures were taken by France, but small villages might not have preserved them, so at least they survive.
A hermaphrodite figure, two lovers merged by the gods.
The Louvre’s exterior and the glass pyramid by I.M. Pei.
Lunch: steak and fish, both very good.
This trip was rewarding: I learned about Western religion, art, and culture—truly an eye-opener. The West’s emphasis on heritage is something to admire, unlike our exam-focused education that rarely fosters true art. Yet, I noticed that past glories have slowed these developed countries; their wealth leads to a relaxed, leisurely life, less frantic than ours. It seems a pattern of history: excess pleasure leads to decline, as the Roman decadence painting shows.
Trip index: 1. Pre-departure tips 2. Day 1–3 (business): Beijing → Brussels → northern France → Madrid 3. Day 4: Prado Museum, Retiro Park 4. Day 5: Toledo 5. Day 6: Great Mosque of Córdoba, Ronda cliffside town 6. Day 7 Seville: Alcázar, Cathedral 7. Day 8 Seville: Metropol Parasol, Plaza de España → Lisbon: Belém Tower, Monument to the Discoveries 8. Day 9 Lisbon: Cabo da Roca → Rua Augusta → Castelo de São Jorge → Tram 28 experience 9. Day 10 Barcelona: Sagrat Cor 10. Day 11 Barcelona: Casa Batlló, La Rambla, Boqueria Market, Columbus Monument, Mediterranean cruise, Sagrada Família 11. Day 12 Barcelona: Picasso Museum → Paris 12. Day 13 Paris: Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, Place de la Concorde, Eiffel Tower, Seine cruise, Musée d’Orsay 13. Day 14 Paris: Versailles, shopping 14. Day 15 Paris: Louvre 15. Summary
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