Phoenix Eyes Half-Closed, Amber Hidden - A Light Brushstroke Sketch of Seoul, Korea

Cold Dews arrives, autumn is deep, the sky grows chilly, especially in the long nights.

October in the southern part of the Korean Peninsula has also seen "a flying shadow of a swan goose passes, green hills and blue waters, white grass, red leaves, and yellow flowers."

The Han River shimmers, bisecting Seoul, the capital of the Republic of Korea. The southern bank, which began its development in the 1970s and was boosted by the hosting of the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games, has now reached great perfection, blazing like fire and shining brightly, at its zenith. The northern bank has always carried on the tradition, with layers of glory, gathering the legacy of the past and present, blending the old and the new. The Han River lies between them like a natural moat, striking at the weak points of the south and doing nothing to help the north's complacency.

Namsan in Seoul is less than a hundred zhang above sea level, yet it rises abruptly from the city center, conspicuous and striking. The nearly equally tall Seoul Tower stands atop it, not only majestic but also soaring into the sky, overlooking Seoul and capturing all its beauty.

It is evident that Seoul Tower, sitting atop Namsan, is naturally the landmark of Seoul. Its observation deck is hailed as "the most romantic space closest to the sky." Ascending the tower by day, one "gazes at the mist and clouds, letting the eyes wander;" by night, "ten thousand lights illuminate both sides of the river."

On the second-floor open-air terrace at the base of the tower, the Love Lock Wall is prominently visible. Heart locks pile up layer upon layer, like countless crags and cliffs, colorful and splendid, making vows of eternal love and locking away a love that lasts till the end of time—"Meet or part, live or die, we've made oath, with you I'll share. Hold your hand in mine, we shall grow old together."

The three-story scenic overlook on the tower perfectly interprets the effect of "to see a thousand miles further, ascend another story." What is most surprising is that on the clear glass windows all around, the locations of major cities around the world are marked one by one, making the horizon feel like inches away, and inches away feel like the horizon.

About two miles to the north lies Gyeongbokgung Palace, over six hundred years old, named after the Chinese classic "Book of Songs": "May the prince live ten thousand years, and enjoy great prosperity."

At that time, Korea was a vassal state of the Ming Dynasty, so in terms of regulations, the King of Korea only enjoyed the rank of a Duke of the Ming Dynasty. Thus, in scale and grandeur, Gyeongbokgung Palace is far inferior to its counterparts in the suzerain state, but it still exudes the inherent grace and luxury of royalty. Among the five major palaces in Korea, in terms of imposing scale and architectural style, Gyeongbokgung is undoubtedly the foremost.

Within Gyeongbokgung Palace are scattered orderly the Geunjeongjeon, Sajeongjeon, Gangnyeongjeon, Gyotaejeon, Chagyeongjeon, Gyeonghoeru, Hyangwonjeong, and other pavilions, as well as four gates: Geonchunmun (East Gate), Yeongchumun (West Gate), Gwanghwamun (South Gate), and Sinmumun (North Gate). Among them, Gwanghwamun is the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, and its fate has been "like duckweed drifting in the rain." Built in 1395, Gwanghwamun means "light shines in all directions, enlightening all directions." It is regarded as the national gate in the hearts of Koreans. It has gone through wars, relocations, destruction, and reconstruction, experiencing hardships and twists and turns.

The current Gwanghwamun is the most perfect and precise restoration project that took four years at the beginning of this century. During the process, they faced difficulties and made decisive decisions, removing the Korean language signboard written by former President Park Chung-Hee (1917-1979) and restoring the Chinese character signboard written by General Im Tae-yeong (1791-1868) when King Gojong rebuilt Gwanghwamun.

This replacement hurt the national pride of Koreans at the time, sparking controversy and discussion nationwide, with mixed opinions and divided praise and blame. However, the expert members of the Cultural Heritage Committee insisted on their decision, adhering to historical accuracy and making a final ruling: the Korean language signboard did not conform to the spirit of restoring cultural heritage.

About one mile south of Gwanghwamun stands Myeongdong, delicate and prominent, awaiting the daily hustle and bustle. Myeongdong is essentially a shopping city, stretching from Myeongdong Station on Subway Line No. 4 to Euljiro.

Within less than a mile, Myeongdong is densely packed with a large number of fashion and beauty brand exclusive shops and department stores, constantly updating to display high-quality, new-season Korean local and imported goods. It is also the fashion trend wind vane of Korea. Restaurants and cafes line the streets, interspersed with many specialty snack stands, like a mix of formality and bohemianism. Frequent music roadshows give Myeongdong color and warmth.

Surprisingly, the Myeongdong Catholic Cathedral, adjacent to the northern side of Myeongdong, is actually the oldest local church in Korea. Its Gothic exterior stands out uniquely in the Myeongdong area, drawing attentive gazes. Spiritual sustenance stands amidst rampant material desires, yet in the depths of the heart, they are clearly separated, each in its own realm. Its standing aside serves as a warning and admonition. When Myeongdong was planned back then, besides the consideration of preserving cultural relics, the government also intended an implicit caution.

Bukchon Hanok Village, adjacent to Gyeongbokgung Palace, is actually a large protected area of traditional Korean houses, hidden among modern high-rise buildings. Similar to Beijing's hutongs or Shanghai's shikumen, although declining and barely surviving, it is still a scenic representation of time.

The streets are undulating and quiet, filled with an antique atmosphere. The old houses are well-preserved, exuding ancient charm. The alleys vary in depth and width. Each tile and brick is restored to look old, each window and door is simple and exquisite. The roofs are covered with blue tiles, simple yet traditional; fruit trees are planted in front of the doors, showing gentleness and vitality.

Samcheongdong-gil Road, adjacent to Bukchon Hanok Village, is a quiet and artistic commercial street. A fresh, bohemian breeze wanders among the scattered houses, not strong but pervasive, refreshing the senses.

To the east of Gyeongbokgung Palace, this street not only preserves the heritage of hanok houses but also features charming cafes worth visiting and art-filled galleries worth seeing. Walking along the street, one can experience the flavor of Korea's "Nanluoguxiang," blending the modern and the ancient, harmonious yet diverse.

Cheonggyecheon in downtown Seoul deserves to be heavily recorded by later generations. Cheonggyecheon carries over six hundred years of history, flowing from west to east, gently and lightly, into Jungnangcheon in the northern part of the city, and finally into the Han River.

Semantically, Cheonggyecheon is not a river but a "clear stream." A stream is far smaller than a river, babbling and flowing, clear and brisk. In the twenty-li-long, sunken, multi-sectioned waterway, a clear, gurgling stream moves, occasionally encountering culverts and tunnels. "A stretch of water between," with stone steps in the water for pedestrians to conveniently cross, and innocent children play; or graffiti on the bank walls, exuding folk flavor. Meanwhile, pedestrian walkways are built close to the water, seemingly casual but actually intended for water intimacy.

Cheonggyecheon is long and winding. Its western section is Cheonggyecheon Plaza, regarded as the abundant headstream; the middle section blends nature and leisure, forming an urban landscape; the eastern section features wetland spaces created with aquatic plants like willows and sedges, highlighting naturalness and simplicity.

Cheonggyecheon emerged remarkably, turning decay into magic, sweeping away the filth and dirt of the former polluted ditch. It then scientifically restored the polluted ditch and its flow, blending clarity, purity, gurgling, trends, and closeness to the people, creating a clear stream corridor that amazed the world.

Cheonggyecheon is the finishing touch of Seoul, giving Seoul vitality and drawing worldwide attention.

2020.07.19.