2025 National Day South Korea Self-Guided Tour: Seoul

In July, my father had surgery. After that, I traveled back and forth between Ningbo and Hangzhou on weekends. I couldn't really help much, but being there was a comfort. So this summer, I didn't go anywhere for fun. Before I knew it, National Day arrived, coinciding with the Mid-Autumn Festival, a long holiday. Seeing my father recovering reasonably well, I got the urge to travel again. Watching the September 3 military parade filled me with excitement. Since our country's strike range now covers the globe, we subjects of the celestial empire should also stand tall and go out to see the world.

The eight-day holiday: I spent the first two days back home visiting my parents. The remaining days weren't enough for a distant country. Looking around the neighborhood, the small Southeast Asian countries were negligible. I had already been to Japan once. South Korea is considered a developed country, and it has always been arrogant, so it was worth a visit. With China's rejuvenation imminent, this once-envied neighbor—if I don't go now, I might lose the desire to go later.

Going to South Korea was fairly convenient. The distance is similar to a business trip to Beijing. Recently, there was a visa-free policy for groups of three, so theoretically, I could leave immediately. However, my daughter had sketching arranged by the school during the holiday, so my wife and I couldn't form a group. We still needed to apply for visas. Fortunately, Japan and South Korea are very friendly to residents of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai; the review is simple, and applying for a visa half a month in advance was sufficient.

I used to rely on a certain travel website for finding attractions and making itineraries, but recently I found outdated information and sloppy guides—the travel manuals were from over a decade ago. Now everyone shares travel experiences on Little Red Book, and Douyin is also full of resources. After an evening of scrolling through Douyin, I quickly drafted a few days' itinerary: three days in Seoul and two days in Busan or Jeju. However, since South Korea also celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival, flights and train tickets from Seoul to Busan were already sold out, so I changed it to Incheon, near Seoul. After booking round-trip flights and hotels in South Korea, everything was set.

Most guides on social platforms focus on trendy shopping, K-drama check-ins, idol chasing, beauty and plastic surgery, etc. I knew almost nothing about these; my daughter knew more, so she was upset she couldn't come. The humanities, history, and natural scenery I'm interested in are not traditional strengths of Korean tourism. I didn't have high expectations for this trip to Korea. Even so, with their Mid-Autumn holiday and continuous rainy weather, it turned out even more disappointing than expected.

The six-day, five-night trip basically went as planned, with only slight adjustments based on the situation. Leaving the hotel at 10 a.m. and returning around 10 p.m., taking 20,000 to 30,000 steps a day rushing between check-in spots—it was truly a special forces-style trip. All the places I visited can be seen clearly on one map, so I won't list them one by one here. Let me share my impressions of each place. Although there is plenty of information online, being there in person still brings your own feelings and experiences.

Let's start with Gyeongbokgung Palace. This was the first stop of the official trip and the only place I consider a true scenic spot. Gyeongbokgung was undeniably the political center during the Joseon Dynasty, from 1392 to 1910, roughly contemporary with China's Ming and Qing dynasties. It is comparable to Korea's "Forbidden City," but in scale and architectural style, it only matches a Ming dynasty princely mansion, which fits the Joseon Dynasty's political status of regarding the Ming as its suzerain. The Forbidden City has lasted 600 years, but Gyeongbokgung was repeatedly burned down and rebuilt, and during the Japanese colonial period in the last century, it was largely demolished. The Gyeongbokgung seen today was rebuilt on its original site after 1995. Except for Geunjeongjeon Hall, most of it is not historical relics; it is simply a symbol of Koreans' remembrance of the Joseon Dynasty and national independence.

Although some mock Gyeongbokgung as a miniature version of Chinese palaces, setting aside the Chinese stereotype of royal palaces, Gyeongbokgung looks grand and magnificent in its own right. However, its orderly layout, empty furnishings, and delicate gardens lack the historical depth and dynastic majesty. Starting from Gwanghwamun in the south to Sinmumun in the north, Gyeongbokgung houses halls such as Geunjeongjeon, Sajeongjeon, Gangnyeongjeon, Gyotaejeon, Chagyeongjeon, and Gyeonghoeru, restoring the splendor of the Joseon Dynasty. Each building has explanations in Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and English about its use and history. Notably, although these structures imitate Ming dynasty architecture, they have their own features: raised stone platforms elevate the palace floors, presumably to prevent snakes and rodents and to avoid ground moisture; the roofs lack flying eaves, ending abruptly at the corners, giving a somewhat cramped feeling without the elegance and grandeur of Chinese architecture. These design elements also appear in traditional Korean houses and imitation ancient buildings, probably characteristic of Korean-style ancient architecture.

To promote hanbok and Korean culture, wearing a hanbok while visiting Gyeongbokgung allows you to skip the 3,000 won entrance fee, but renting a hanbok is probably not free, so I'm not sure how the math works. Since it was Korea's Mid-Autumn Festival, admission was free, saving me the dilemma of whether to experience a hanbok. Many Western tourists changed into hanboks. Seeing tall, blonde-haired, blue-eyed men and women in traditional Korean attire, gathering for group photos, had a delightfully incongruous charm. At the plaza in front of Gwanghwamun and Deoksugung Palace, there was a performance of the royal guard changing ceremony. Though simple, it carried a sense of ritual and was a small highlight.

Outside Gwanghwamun is Gwanghwamun Square, a scaled-down version of Tiananmen Square, surrounded by major political and administrative departments of South Korea. In the center of the square stand statues of King Sejong the Great and Admiral Yi Sun-sin, both remarkable figures in Korean history. Behind Gyeongbokgung, opposite Sinmumun, is the Blue House (Cheongwadae), where the president works. It can be visited by appointment, but we hadn't done any research, so we could only glimpse the blue-green roofed buildings from afar, imagining the daily lives of South Korean presidents who often meet unfortunate ends.

Not far from Gyeongbokgung are Samcheong-dong Cultural Street and Bukchon Hanok Village, well-preserved and representative Korean traditional houses. Some hanoks operate as cafés or tea houses and are open for business, while most still have residents. Therefore, the entire hanok village is only open for visits before 5 p.m., with no disturbance allowed at night. Many signs and volunteers remind visitors to keep quiet. Along the streets climbing the hillside, both sides are filled with unique hanoks: brick-and-stone foundations, vividly patterned exterior walls, and log window frames and beams, layered one upon another. Tourists in hanbok take photos on the porch, creating a harmonious and distinctly Korean atmosphere.

Most tourist cities have iconic towers or skyscrapers, both as landmarks and for panoramic views. So, I had to visit N Seoul Tower—the only place where I bought a ticket, 16,000 won per person, with a discount available through a certain booking app. To control crowds, you buy a ticket and wait for your number to be called for the elevator. During the wait, you can explore the base of the tower: supermarkets, souvenir shops, cafés, restaurants, and observation platforms, all crowded with people. By the time we went up, it was already dark. We could enjoy a 360-degree view of Seoul's nightscape. The city lights sparkled, the Han River flowed through it, its ripples reflecting the urban lights, with bridges spanning across. The tower has three floors, including a high-end restaurant and a completely transparent toilet facing the city—called the Sky Restroom—which has become a popular check-in spot.

N Seoul Tower has a total height of 236 meters, but the observation deck sits at 380 meters above sea level, factoring in Namsan Mountain. The tower is built on Namsan Peak, with Namsan Park surrounding it. Namsan Park is a city park in central Seoul, said to be a filming location for several Korean dramas, such as "My Love from the Star." The park has the ruins of an old Joseon shrine, with only some stone platforms remaining. As I walked up the trail along the slope, the environment was beautiful with lush vegetation, and everywhere I could see the cityscape in the distance.

Hangang Park is a riverside park along the Han River. There are several Hangang Parks along the river; the one I visited was Yeouido Hangang Park. The riverside lawns stretch endlessly, with many Koreans laying out picnic mats or setting up tents, relaxing. There's a Starbucks by the river with an unbeatable river view, but a more interesting experience is squatting by the river to eat instant noodles. Convenience stores sell noodles in special containers; you then follow the instructions on an automatic noodle machine, and in four minutes you have a steaming bowl of Korean instant noodles. You can take it to the riverbank, find a spot, and sit down to eat—following local customs. Yeouido Hangang Park is a perfect place to watch the sunset, but unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate, so we could only wait for the lights to come on and watch the bridge over the river and the blurry lights of the opposite city.

Several universities are also popular check-in spots in South Korea. Ewha Womans University and Yonsei University both have over 140 years of history, but Yonsei has preserved more ancient buildings. The central green area on campus is surrounded by European-style teaching buildings covered in ivy, resembling the layout of old European castles. Yonsei University is large, with a long central avenue at the main gate and vast wooded vacant lots and tree-lined paths at the back of campus. Ewha Womans University is smaller; its highlight is the sunken library, with old buildings mixed among newer teaching blocks, making them less prominent. Ewha and Yonsei are very close—just a few minutes' walk apart. During the holiday, the campuses were almost empty. With the rainy weather, there were very few tourists, making the stroll on campus very peaceful and comfortable.

Hongik University is one subway stop away from Yonsei, about a ten-minute walk. It is an arts-focused university, but the campus itself is rather worn out and unremarkable. Outside the campus, there is a graffiti street, but compared to the graffiti around Sichuan Fine Arts Institute in China, it's even less impressive. However, Hongdae is famous for its shopping streets. Several small streets outside the university are filled with small shops and markets. Not far away, AK PLAZA is a shopping paradise for anime and niche brands, and there are often cosplayers and performances. This time I encountered Hatsune Miku. I heard that weekend nights are even livelier, with many young people gathering. I quite liked it there, but I didn't stay long; I hurried through the small streets full of creative shops.

Hongdae shopping streets are a paradise for young people, while Sinsa-dong and Apgujeong are centers for fashion brands, international luxury labels, and beauty/plastic surgery. But to me, they were just ordinary streets lined with shops. I also visited the giant poster on Garosu-gil in Sinsa-dong and passed by the Louis Vuitton store tucked away in a small alley in Apgujeong. However, most shops were closed and shuttered, making the rainy streets feel cold and desolate. This is unimaginable in China—even during the Spring Festival, commercial areas are bustling with people. South Korea actually stops business for Mid-Autumn Festival, which does have an old capitalist country vibe.

But the night markets were lively. On the first night, I went to Myeongdong Night Market. It was packed with people, and the streets were lined with local specialty food stalls, making my mouth water. Then there was the Itaewon bar street, with wide-open windows facing the street, leaving no distance between passersby and customers drinking by the windows. The noisy sound filled every space inside and out. During the day, I also passed by Insa-dong and checked out Dongdaemun. Insa-dong is a pedestrian shopping street with tea houses, creative shops, and tourist souvenirs. Dongdaemun Market was closed for the holiday, so I only glanced at the architecturally striking DDP Design Plaza and the cultural park that preserves the remnants of the old Dongdaemun gate.

South Korea has several other Instagram-famous spots, like Starfield Library in the COEX Mall in Gangnam. In the center of the mall, a few hundred square meters of steel-framed glass roof and four giant bookshelves over ten meters high give the library a dreamy feel and strong photo appeal. There's also Myeongdong Cartoon Street, a sloping street lined with houses painted in bright cartoon patterns; with N Seoul Tower on the hilltop in the background, it has become a new photo spot. Between Myeongdong and Insa-dong flows Cheonggyecheon Stream—a fast, shallow stream uncommon in other cities. The stream banks are overgrown with water plants, full of rustic charm, and tidy convenient walkways have been built, making it a popular place for local couples and young people to date and relax.

Opening a Seoul map, you can find other historical sites, such as Deoksugung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace. But since Gyeongbokgung, the foremost of the five grand palaces, was only so-so, the other palaces probably aren't much better than princely mansions. There are also museums like the National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, but I didn't visit them. South Korea often claims Chinese culture as its own, and I was afraid seeing such things in museums would spoil my mood. Some markets were closed for the holiday, such as Dongdaemun Market and Gwangjang Market. I didn't regret missing them; I had no desire to buy souvenirs on this trip.

In the entire three-day Seoul itinerary, I visited so many places, but I only took an Uber once—to Namsan Park and N Seoul Tower. The rest of the time, I used the subway and buses. The city's public transport is well-developed and convenient. Using Navar for route navigation, the arrival times of subways and buses were accurate to the minute. The T-money card was easy to use, with transfers within a short time calculated as a single fare, but the base fare of 1,500 won still seemed a bit expensive. Occasionally, I was troubled by finding the exact location of this "dong" or that "dong" in the guides—dong is a Korean neighborhood, which can be quite large, and I often didn't know where to start. As for food, prices were similar to those in China. I had seolleongtang (ox bone soup), Korean cold noodles, gamjatang (pork back-bone stew), samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup), and fried chicken. Kimchi was the essential side dish. Each time I ate, I was extremely hungry and wolfed down my food, so everything was to my taste. Apps like Ctrip and Dianping worked here too. Apart from some difficulty recognizing Korean characters, there was no difference from being in China.

Walking on Seoul's streets, I occasionally saw signs and maps marked "Pine Avenue" or "Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil" but the roadside trees were just low, delicate pine trees. The arrogance and pride of Koreans inadvertently show in every corner of the city. There were many Chinese people in supermarkets, scenic spots, and restaurants, so communication was not difficult. I installed Papago but never used it. People say there are many beautiful women in Korea, and I did see a few pretty ones, but most turned out to be Chinese tourists. Perhaps on holidays, I didn't have the chance to see the meticulously dressed Korean office workers.

There were still two days left of the holiday. I didn't want to spend all of them in Seoul, so after accompanying my wife to complete her shopping tasks at Shinsegae Duty Free and Lotte Duty Free, we went straight to Incheon that night.