A Ahn Luh Journey: A Three-Day, Two-Night Hideaway with My Child, a Trip Through Time

I once read in a magazine: Ahn Luh – between peace and the foot of the mountain. 'An' means calm and stability. 'Lu' means the foot of a mountain, a place of retreat. Finding a secluded sanctuary in the midst of a bustling city is truly rare, and Ahn Luh is just such a hidden retreat.

Going into retreat with my child – it was a dream, especially now that he’s at that age even the dog runs from. My days were a blur of chasing and scolding. If I could steal half a day’s leisure, it would be the greatest kindness to myself. Lao Xue said, rather than you two staring each other down at home, why not go out as spring warms and flowers bloom? I thought about it, and so began this three-day, two-night trip, a spur-of-the-moment getaway.

Wandering an ancient town, watching cherry blossoms – that was our theme, and Ahn Luh became my heart’s desire. Not to flee the world, just to find a resting place for the soul.

Ahn Luh has hotels in both Zhujiajiao, Shanghai and Shaoxing. The ancient water town of Zhujiajiao with its centuries-old history, the sea of cherry blossoms in Shaoxing in full bloom – both matched our wish perfectly. And the two are only about two hours’ drive apart, so driving ourselves was very convenient.

An Encounter Across Time

When you talk about Zhujiajiao, many people think of Zhujiajiao Ancient Town. This village, settled over 1,700 years ago, still preserves clusters of ancient architecture and a deep sense of history. But perhaps because it’s so famous, and too many people visit, it has lost some of that true ancient town tranquility. That’s why I preferred the Ahn Luh beside Zhujiajiao – just one wall away from the noise, leaving only the calm and weight of history.

It’s about a one-hour drive from central Shanghai to Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao. We parked in the underground garage, and as soon as the car stopped, a concierge came to help with our luggage. The first time I heard the name Ahn Luh, I simply thought it sounded beautiful, so I remembered it. Only later did I learn it’s Aman’s sister brand. Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao is the brand’s first hotel in China. People who long for retreat are many, but hidden havens are hard to find, and Ahn Luh seems to exist just for this kind of paradise.

Unlike fake ancient-style hotels that are all surface, Ahn Luh has embedded Chinese architectural culture deep inside. The buildings here come from centuries-old Huizhou-style ancient structures. Every tile, every beam softly tells stories of bygone eras.

The ‘Wufeng Lou’ that Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao occupies is a Ming Dynasty mansion with 600 years of history. This ancient Huizhou building, meticulously restored by craftsmen, has been recreated one-to-one in this millennia-old Zhujiajiao town, becoming a temporary hideaway for many.

The hotel lobby is inside Wufeng Lou itself. Reputed as the ‘Number One Official Residence in Jiangnan,’ it is majestic, its Ming and Qing architecture’s rustic charm washing over you.

Wufeng Lou is a classic Huizhou building, following the layout of ‘five bays in front, seven at the back, three halls and two courtyards.’ Every brick and piece of wood exudes a slowness from that age – perhaps this is the unique charm of ancient architecture. Walking inside Wufeng Lou, far from the city’s clamor, everything seemed to slow down, and my heart began to quiet. The four characters in the lobby, ‘Never Forget the Beginning,’ seemed to capture the essence of inner peace.

On the tea table in the great hall, there were scrolls, a guzheng, ink, paper, and inkstones, creating a lovely cultural mood – and also the toys of our childhood: shuttlecocks, spinning tops… I picked one up and showed Casper, ‘Hey, look, this is what Mommy played with when she was little.’

The hotel rooms hide behind this Ming Dynasty Huizhou official hall – individual villa suites that create a private space all your own. I had done my homework before booking, and finally chose the Yangting Ge, considered their entry-level room type. The hotel has 35 villas in total, four room types, and every one comes with its own exclusive private garden. If you’re looking for value, the Yangting Ge is unbeatable.

After check-in, a butler led us to our room and carefully introduced the facilities. Unlike the ancient charm of Wufeng Lou, the room felt more contemporary, with an elegant wooden-toned decor and soft lighting that made the whole space understated yet luxurious.

Though there was still a chill in the early spring air, the room was as warm as spring itself. Sunlight streamed through the large floor-to-ceiling windows, incredibly cozy. An independent air-conditioning system meant we could use it worry-free even in times of pandemic; the entire room also has underfloor heating – such a thoughtful touch for little ones who love running around barefoot.

A super-king bed meant there was no worry about space even with a restless-sleeping child. The bed was incredibly comfortable, no surprise since it’s a Swedish century-old brand’s 7-foot bed – not too soft, not too hard. If your child is used to sleeping separately, the hotel can prepare a separate small bed in advance.

The bathroom area was also wonderfully spacious, with twin basins symmetrically placed at either end. Besides a separate shower and toilet, there was an oversized bathtub – another bath-time treat for the little one in the evening.

Ahn Luh doesn’t really position itself as a family hotel, so there aren’t piles of toy tents, rocking horses, and the like. So calling it a family hotel isn’t quite right. Yet as a high-end brand hotel, it might be even more suitable for bringing children than an ordinary family hotel.

Besides the child-specific toiletries – toothbrushes, toothpaste, special bath amenities, little slippers – more importantly, the cultural atmosphere here can subtly influence a child, letting them come into contact with traditional Chinese culture early on.

The thing that most fascinated Casper in the whole room was the courtyard. Every blade of grass, every twig was a world to explore. In our own private space, we didn’t need to stand guard; we could let him play to his heart’s content with peace of mind.

Seclusion isn’t about spending days by a dim lamp and plain congee; it’s about making the heart feel rich.

At Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao, you needn’t worry about being bored, because it’s easy to find your own way to savor life.

I’ve always been interested in cooking. Cooking doesn’t mean you’re a disheveled, tired housewife; you don’t have to wield a huge ladle over a blazing wok. In fact, learning to make Western-style pastries can add a touch of ritual to life. So we booked the hotel’s sandwich-making class in advance. Simple as a sandwich seems, making one that tastes good is quite an art.

The class was held in Ahn Luh’s all-day dining restaurant, right next to the pool. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls gave an unobstructed view of the blue water.

Chef Jason already had the ingredients ready in the restaurant. When he saw us, a smile lifted his face. He spoke in a measured, leisurely way, just like the sunshine outside – mysteriously healing.

Jason demonstrated with the ingredients while explaining in simple, easy-to-follow terms. How well should the bread be toasted for the best texture? How do you keep the bread crisp? How do you prevent a sandwich from becoming dry and hard? Pure useful tips! Even a kitchen novice could pick it up quickly.

When the sandwich was finally done, Casper could no longer control himself. The bread crust was crisp, the inside soft and tender, with generous fillings and a rich, fragrant sauce that made the little chap forget all about appearances… I suddenly felt quite excited about what the hotel’s dinner might be like…

After this special afternoon tea, I took Casper for a stroll by the pool. Sunshine we hadn’t seen for so long, blue sky and white clouds, spring in the air.

Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao is like a work of art to be savored slowly, steeped in the essence of Chinese ancient architecture.

Walking to Wufeng Lou’s main gate, you can feel the grandeur of the entire building even more. Five pairs of wing-like eaves spread like phoenixes taking flight, hence the name. The plaque over the gate, ‘Da Fu Di,’ exudes official dignity. A pair of stone lions guard the owner’s peace and safety – one female, one male, symbolizing both posterity and power.

Looking closely at these two lions, the craftsmanship is astonishing, right down to their different gazes. The female lion looks inward, the male lion gazes into the distance, reflecting the ‘man outside, woman inside’ family ideal. This is our Chinese architecture – details worth pondering, each stroke a story.

Carved on the beams are auspicious creatures like kirin, pixiu, and magpies, representing longevity, immortality, and wealth. The workmanship is exquisite, the forms strikingly lifelike. Even people today cannot help but utter admiration.

The ‘matching door’ guardians at the entrance, though weathered by time, faintly reveal the illustriousness of the original owner’s family. I strongly recommend letting the butler show you around and tell the stories of Wufeng Lou – this is the very essence of Ahn Luh.

Stepping into the first courtyard was like beginning an elegant journey through ancient and modern times. Red lanterns lined the corridors on either side, symbolizing harmony and peace. On the walls was an ongoing photography exhibition – modern works, but perhaps because they, too, are art, they complemented the old mansion beautifully.

Walking on the floor’s golden bricks, taking in the flying eaves and carved beams – it’s exactly these deposits of history that make Ahn Luh the ancient-charmed, understated-soul place it is.

Facing Wufeng Lou from a distance is the Late Qing Dynasty theater stage, also over a century old. Its front eaves have coiling dragon golden pillars, and inside the dome a caisson ceiling. The whole stage is sumptuously decorated: opera figures and classical legends are carved here, frozen in time as historical records.

When cherry blossom season arrives, two ornamental cherry trees flanking the stage sway gracefully in the breeze, looking exceptionally enchanting.

In the evening, too lazy to leave the hotel, we decided to try Ahn Luh’s cuisine. If you’re in a group, I’d suggest reserving one of the private dining rooms. The rooms face Wufeng Lou, and when you open the door, the theater stage is right there. With floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides, the scenery blends naturally into the space – private and tranquil.

Being in Zhujiajiao, I naturally wanted to try the local water-town specialties. Among them, white water fish, one of the ‘three whites’ of Taihu Lake, is a must-try delicacy in the ancient town. But I’d always thought white water fish was full of tiny bones and bland when steamed. Ahn Luh completely overturned that impression – they made the white water fish taste as delicate and savory as shad. That alone is a reason to visit. ‘Yanduxian’ is a classic Shanghai delicacy – a seasonal dish, especially tender in spring when bamboo shoots are fresh. Sipping a bowl of this hearty ‘Yanduxian,’ with that old Shanghai flavor, warms both heart and stomach.

My absolute favorite, though, was their mango pomelo sago dessert. Sweet but not cloying, with a single scoop of ice cream on top – simply perfect.

The presentation and flavors of their dishes are all very child-friendly. The rich colors made Casper eager to try every dish, and the light, health-conscious seasoning meant I could let him eat with peace of mind.

After dinner, we returned to the room, where turndown service had already been done. A health-giving sweet soup, specially prepared according to the 24 solar terms, promised a good night’s sleep.

Stealing Half a Day’s Leisure

In the morning, I had arranged for breakfast to be delivered to the room – one Chinese, one Western set, to satisfy both Lao Xue’s and my different tastes.

Morning sunlight through the floor-to-ceiling windows poured warmly into the room, a ritual start to a new day – how wonderful it was. The two foodies beside me couldn’t wait any longer and began tucking in.

Yesterday I had booked a tai chi class with the butler for this morning. I didn’t know much about tai chi, but that couldn’t stop me from experiencing the charm of this ancient Eastern art of exercise.

The hotel had already placed tai chi uniforms in the cupboard. We changed, and with Casper in tow, greeted the morning light in the Da Fu Di courtyard to practice a session of tai chi, cultivating both body and mind.

Each move, each stance – feeling the harmony of yin and yang between heaven and earth. Every motion stilling movement, softness overcoming hardness, as if time itself stood still between one breath and the next…

While Mom was practicing martial arts, the son couldn’t just idle. He picked up a brush, splashed ink, and doodled – the very picture of aspiring scholarly diligence.

After class, I took my son to wander around Wufeng Lou.

Looking up from the lobby, you see rows of wooden windows on the second floor. That’s the Scholarly Pavilion. Once the young ladies’ embroidery quarters, the inner chambers of women. Now it has become a library – the ‘Shuxiang Ge,’ literally the Fragrant Library, which is Ahn Luh’s library, quiet and serene, a perfect place to read.

One side of the stair landing is a children’s play area. With this treasure spot, Casper finally settled down briefly. Even with a child in tow, I could steal half a day’s leisure and read a few chapters of my favorite book.

In a corner of the Scholarly Pavilion there’s a table with scripture rolls and calligraphy supplies. Copying scriptures easily quiets a restless heart. Time slipped by through my fingers, and I sat for a long while.

Casper was touching ink and brush for the first time, obviously intrigued. He pretended to draw and doodle on the paper – very amusing. Traditional culture still needs to be passed on – for builders, for literati, and for children. Letting them learn more about Chinese traditional arts broadens their horizons, increases their knowledge, and passes on heritage. Perhaps this is one reason I chose Ahn Luh.

The hotel’s spa and ‘Yangxin Ge’ meditation room are also highlights. Unfortunately they were still closed during the pandemic, so I can only leave that unique pleasure for next time.

We returned to the room to pack and start the second leg of our journey: Lanting Ahn Luh in Shaoxing.

Into a Fairyland Far from the Madding Crowd

It’s about a two-hour drive from Zhujiajiao, Shanghai to Shaoxing. Come off the Shaozhu Expressway and in about five minutes you’re there.

Lanting Ahn Luh was inspired by Wang Xizhi’s ‘Preface to the Poems Composed at the Orchid Pavilion.’ Thus, the entire hotel’s design attempts to recreate the scenes described in the poem – ‘tall bamboo groves,’ ‘limpid streams rushing’ – dreamlike, poetic.

If Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao is a secluded lady hidden in a millennia-old town, then Lanting Ahn Luh is a fairyland at the foot of hills, drawing in the essence of heaven and earth.

In a way similar to Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao, the buildings here were also relocated from Huizhou and then restored, made old again while like new.

We parked in the car park, and a shuttle came to pick us up. Actually, the lobby and the car park aren’t far. If not burdened with luggage, I’d suggest walking, because on the way you’ll pass many cherry blossom lanes – quite beautiful.

The hotel lobby is in the General’s Mansion, which was also relocated from Anhui – a classic Huizhou structure. The General’s Mansion has a double-courtyard layout, so lighting is excellent. A massive, dignified ‘winter melon beam’ is the treasure of the entire building.

Everywhere in the General’s Mansion you’ll see numbers marked on the pillars. This isn’t some mischievous child’s doing, but markings made by workers to better restore the building. Reassembling ancient architecture is a very complicated, time-consuming project. The building is disassembled piece by piece from its original site, each piece numbered and recorded in its original position before being gradually restored. Finding old craftsmen, old materials – restoring the original form as much as possible. Every step sounds methodical, yet each is a challenge. As the number of master craftsmen dwindles, as old timber is eroded by time, you realize this isn’t just a mansion; it’s a gem of human architectural culture.

Only when you come to Lanting Ahn Luh might you truly understand the meaning behind ‘Without the inheritance of culture, how can a true legend begin?’

We checked in at the lobby. Yuangming Ge or Lanting Ge are the star room types here – standalone courtyard old mansions, the very soul of Ahn Luh. Each one is part of the owner Mr. Zhong’s personal collection. Unable to bear seeing old houses torn down because they were crumbling, he collected them and spent a fortune hiring many ancient architecture experts and traditional craftsmen to restore them, bringing the old homes back to life.

A building without cultural heritage is, after all, a soulless building. In these ancient homes before our eyes, whose stories once unfolded here, and how many more will be played out in the future?

Yungming Ge and Lanting Ge don’t differ much in layout; the difference lies in the view from the window. Yuangming Ge faces bamboo-covered mountain scenery; Lanting Ge is built beside water, looking across at the distant rolling hills.

If at Ahn Luh Zhujiajiao we stayed in a room, then at Lanting Ahn Luh in Shaoxing, we stayed in a manor house.

There’s a courtyard in front to enjoy flowers and listen to rain. A terrace at the back to view the bamboo. A house with a yard is perfect for children – it becomes their own little paradise. Looking at flowers, grass, stones – that’s their world. If you’ve stayed at the Aman Summer Palace in Beijing, you might find something familiar here, because this is also the work of Jaya, Aman’s go-to designer. The layout is very orderly.

The living room is in the middle, the bedroom on one side, the bathroom on the other – three spaces of almost equal size. You can imagine how spacious it is.

Open the two doors, and you’re greeted by beautiful mountain scenery.

The vaulted ceiling design makes the room feel airy and bright. Even though it’s an old mansion, it doesn’t feel dark or oppressive. At night, lying in bed, looking up at the high beams, I felt as if I might travel back a few hundred years and become a refined lady of the General’s Mansion.

Although in the mountains, the room has independent air conditioning and floor heating, so I didn’t have to worry about Casper catching a chill running all over barefoot. The guest room also provided child toiletries and a cute vintage red umbrella that suited the setting perfectly. Casper didn’t yet know how to use it, though – he turned it into a hat instead.

Lanting Ahn Luh is definitely a wonderful place far from the madding crowd. The hotel’s own hills and waters keep the crowds at bay, creating a unique haven of tranquility.

Strolling with Casper along the Ruoye Stream, birdsong and babbling water filled our ears. The Ruoye Concert Hall stands next to the stream, also rebuilt from a traditional Huizhou ancient building. It can be used for various meetings. Around the concert hall is a grove of cherry trees – now in full bloom, making it the perfect place to wander with a child. Huizhou buildings, with their gray tiles and white walls, set against branches laden with cherry blossoms, were picture-perfect.

Following the path onward, we reached Lanting’s spa and activity center. The deep blue pool reflected the white walls and black tiles. If it were summer, this would surely be a great spot for splashing about.

Leaving the pool area and passing a waterside pavilion, we found a stepped area. I was wondering why it was arranged like this when a staff member explained that many events are often held here – wine tastings, or early morning yoga, breathing in the essence of the mountains and rivers. No wonder Ahn Luh doesn’t provide indoor gyms or the like. Since you’ve chosen retreat, you should be one with heaven and earth.

Following the stream further up, we came upon Jianlong Pond. The whole lake view was instantly refreshing. Casper spotted schools of little fish in the lake and was delighted watching them swim about. The Huizhou old mansions reflected in the water, becoming a natural painting.

Lanting Ahn Luh is actually nestled in a valley, surrounded by mountains, one of which is a branch of Shaoxing’s famous Kuaiji Mountain. This area also harbors fascinating cultural gems. If you enjoy hiking, you can follow the stone steps on a path exclusive to Lanting guests to see the Taoist ‘Ten Grotto Heavens’ – Longrui Palace. If you still have energy, keep going up to reach a viewing pavilion on the hillside, overlooking the entire Lanting Ahn Luh.

With Casper along, I naturally abandoned that idea. When he’s a little older, perhaps he can help me up the mountain… Children belong in nature anyway, releasing their innocence among these hills and waters.

The hotel is really huge. After a stroll around, dusk was falling. We chose to eat in the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, which was very close to our room. All three meals could be taken care of here.

Shaoxing is in the Jiangnan region, so the local specialties suit Shanghainese palates well. Still, you must try seasonal dishes; cured meats and pickled goods are also specialties here. I particularly loved the chef’s presentation – turning every dish into a work of art. Just looking at them set the appetite going.

To test if ingredients are fresh, if food is delicious, if it’s a feast for the eyes, I think a child’s taste buds are the most honest. Casper was already trying to climb onto the table, spooning up one mouthful after another of the silver thread seafood soup, gobbling down the rich, smooth foie gras.

And the blend of crab roe with orange was his favorite. Since we were in Shaoxing, we had to try the local specialty, ‘jiangxiang hehezheng’ – assorted cured meats steamed together, a dish usually savored only during the New Year. The handmade pan-fried buns were another specialty; I heard the chef who makes them once won a Shaoxing dim sum award. Different from Shanghainese shengjian, the wrapper here is crisp, soft, and fragrantly crunchy.

After dinner, we gave Casper a bath. Miraculously, he went to bed just after 8 p.m. – almost unheard of! Increasing his physical activity truly was a great way to regulate his routine. That gave us more time to ourselves, a rare moment of peace.

Family Fun Time Begins

In the morning, we opened the door to green hills and blue waters under clear skies. We had arranged for breakfast delivery at 8:30 a.m., and it came right on time – again Chinese and Western sets, but with different varieties. Casper gulped down a bowl of steaming noodles, ready to start a new day.

Today we planned to take Casper to a strawberry farm to pick strawberries. It was about a ten-minute drive from Ahn Luh. I’d never understood the appeal of strawberry picking – you can buy cheap, tasty strawberries, so why labor in a field to pick them yourself? After going, I realized: it’s called the joy of living, especially for a child.

This was Casper’s first strawberry-picking experience in his life. Clutching a little basket, he was super excited. The strawberry farm was very clean, with many greenhouses, large and small, and different strawberry varieties.

Some grew on the ground, others on raised shelves for easy picking. The first thing Casper did upon seeing a strawberry wasn’t putting it in the basket, but popping it straight into his mouth. Well… basic human instinct, no argument there.

As we picked, he gained experience, showing a serious face as he studied which strawberry was redder and tastier. When he couldn’t pick one, he’d call sweetly for Mommy, and I’d trot over to assist.

Whatever I picked and placed in his basket became his – off-limits to others, much like a little territorial sovereign. We weighed the strawberries; 35 yuan per jin wasn’t exactly cheap, but what we bought was fun. Thinking of the many berries my son probably squished in the process, it still seemed like a pretty good deal.

Come, see our bountiful harvest!

Days at Lanting Ahn Luh always felt exceptionally free and easy – perhaps because of the lake, the scenery, the old houses steeped in history that still time and calm a restless heart.

Back at the restaurant, if the weather is fine, you must come here for afternoon tea. The open terrace looks out over lush greenery, with white walls and black tiles blending into the landscape. It’s pure bliss sinking into a sweet afternoon tea.

During cherry blossom season, of course we ordered the cherry blossom afternoon tea, a seasonal special – pretty pink desserts, every one just begging to be kissed.

The sweets were both sweet and savory, small but exquisite, satisfying different tastes. One set was more than enough for our family of three, and we packed some leftovers to snack on during the journey home.

During our days at Ahn Luh, finding a piece of pure land, a quiet corner for the heart – that was our greatest gain. When summer cicadas sing again, we’ll return for old times’ sake.