Ahn Luh Escape: Three Days, Two Nights in Seclusion with My Child – A Journey Through Time

I came across in a magazine: Ahn Luh, between An and Lu. ‘An’ means peace and stability. ‘Lu’ means foothills, a place of seclusion. In a bustling city, finding a retreat is rare, and Ahn Luh is exactly such a place. Retreating with my child is a truly desirable thing, especially when the child is at an age even the dog would shun. My life is filled with chasing and roaring; if I could steal a moment of leisure, that would be self-compassion. Old Xue said, rather than you two staring at each other at home all day, why not go out while spring is warm and flowers bloom? I thought, that's true, and so we had this three-day, two-night trip, a go-with-the-flow journey. Visiting an ancient town, seeing a cherry blossom show — that was our theme, so Ahn Luh became my ideal choice. Not seeking retreat from the world, just seeking a place for the soul to rest.

Ahn Luh has hotels in Shanghai's Zhujiajiao and in Shaoxing. The historic Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, and the blooming cherry blossoms in Shaoxing, perfectly matched our wishes. And with only about a two-hour drive between them, self-driving is very convenient.

From downtown Shanghai to Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh is about a one-hour drive. We parked in the underground garage, and as soon as the car stopped, a concierge came to help with our luggage.

The first time I heard of Ahn Luh, I simply thought the name sounded beautiful and remembered it. Later I learned it is a sister brand of Aman. Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh is the first Ahn Luh hotel in China. Many wish to retreat, but retreats are hard to find, and Ahn Luh seems to exist just for this hidden paradise.

Unlike superficially antique-style hotels, Ahn Luh truly embraces Chinese architectural culture. The buildings here all come from century-old Huizhou-style ancient architecture. Every tile, every piece of wood whispers tales of historical changes.

The ‘Wufenglou’ (Five Phoenix Hall) where Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh is located is a complex of Ming Dynasty ancient residences with 600 years of history. This over-600-year-old Ming Dynasty Huizhou-style building, after meticulous restoration by craftsmen, was faithfully reconstructed in the millennium-old Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, becoming a temporary retreat for many.

The hotel lobby is inside Wufenglou. Known as the 'Number One Official Hall of Jiangnan,' it is naturally majestic, with the ancient simplicity of Ming and Qing architecture hitting you as you enter.

Wufenglou is typical Huizhou architecture, following the layout of 'five bays in front, seven at the back, three courtyards and two light wells.' Every brick and beam exudes a 'slow, slow rhythm' of that era – perhaps the unique charm of ancient architecture. Walking inside Wufenglou, away from the city's noise, everything seems to slow down, and the heart becomes still. The four characters 'Bu Wang Chu Xin' (Never Forget the Original Aspiration) in the lobby seem to express the essence of inner peace.

On the tea table in the lobby, there are books, a guzheng, brush, ink, paper, and inkstone – very elegant. There are also toys from our childhood: shuttlecock, spinning top... I picked one up for Casper: 'Hey, look, this is a toy from Mommy's childhood.'

The hotel rooms are hidden behind this Ming Dynasty Huizhou-style official hall. Each is a standalone villa guestroom, creating a private personal space. Before booking, I did my homework and chose the Yangting Pavilion, their base room type. The hotel has 35 villa rooms across four types, but each type comes with its own private garden. So for value, the Yangting Pavilion is unbeatable.

After check-in, the butler led us to our room and carefully introduced the basic amenities.

Unlike the ancient charm of Wufenglou, the room interior has more modernity: understated wooden décor with soft lighting makes the room feel low-key yet luxurious.

Though the spring chill lingered, the room was warm as spring. Sunlight streamed through large floor-to-ceiling windows, exceptionally warm. An independent air-conditioning system could be used safely even during the pandemic, and underfloor heating throughout the room was a thoughtful touch for a toddler who loves running around barefoot.

A king-size double bed meant no space issues even with a restless little one. The bed was very comfortable, indeed a 7-foot bed from a century-old Swedish brand, with just the right firmness. If your child needs to sleep separately, the hotel can prepare a crib in advance.

The bathroom space is spacious too, with twin basins at opposite ends in a symmetrical Chinese style. Besides a separate shower and toilet, there's a huge bathtub – perfect for my child's evening bath.

Ahn Luh doesn't really market itself as a family hotel, so there aren't piles of toy tents, rocking horses, etc. Calling it a family hotel isn't entirely accurate, but as a high-end brand, it may be even more suitable for children than typical family hotels.

Besides the essentials prepared for children – toothbrush, toothpaste, special toiletries, tiny slippers – more importantly, the cultural ambience immerses the child and exposes them early to traditional Chinese culture.

What attracted Casper most in the room was the courtyard. Every plant and tree was a little world for him to explore. In our private, independent space, we didn't need to stand guard; we could let him play freely.

At Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh, there's no worry of boredom, because it's easy to find ways to enjoy life.

I've always been interested in cooking. Cooking doesn't equate to a disheveled housewife; you don't have to wield a big ladle over high heat and oil. Actually, learning to make Western-style snacks can add a sense of ritual to life. So we booked the hotel's sandwich-making class. A simple sandwich, but making it delicious takes some finesse.

The class took place in Ahn Luh's all-day dining restaurant, right next to the pool, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls offering an unobstructed view of the azure pool. Chef Jason had the ingredients ready. When he saw us, a smile lit up his face. He spoke unhurriedly, like the sunlight outside, with an inexplicably healing quality.

As Jason demonstrated with ingredients, he gave simple, clear explanations: How toasted should the bread be for the best texture? How to keep the bread crispy? How to prevent a dry, tough sandwich? All solid tips! Even a kitchen novice can pick it up quickly.

When the sandwiches were done, Casper couldn't hold back. The crust was crispy, the bite soft; the rich filling and savory sauce made the little guy forget all about manners... I suddenly looked forward to dinner at the hotel...

After this special afternoon tea, we strolled by the pool with Casper. Long-missed sunshine, blue sky, white clouds, spring in full bloom~

Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh is like an artwork to be savored slowly, embodying the essence of Chinese ancient architectural culture.

At the main gate of Wufenglou, you can fully appreciate the grandeur. Five pairs of upturned eaves spread like phoenix wings, hence the name. The plaque 'Da Fu Di' (Grand Official's Residence) exudes authority. A pair of stone lions guard the entrance, protecting the owner's luck and safety; one female, one male, symbolizing both many descendants and power.

Looking closely at the two lions, the craftsmanship is exquisite; even their gazes differ. The female lion looks inward, the male lion gazes into the distance, symbolizing the man works outside, the woman manages the home. That's how Chinese architecture is – every detail tells a story.

The beams are carved with kylin, pixiu, magpies, and other auspicious creatures symbolizing longevity, immortality, and wealth. The craftsmanship is extremely fine, lifelike; modern visitors can't help but marvel.

The 'door stones and gate' at the entrance, though weathered by time, still hint at the distinguished status of the original owner.

I highly recommend taking a tour with the butler to hear the stories of Wufenglou; this is the essence of Ahn Luh.

Stepping into the first courtyard begins an elegant journey through time. Corridors on both sides are lined with small red lanterns, symbolizing harmony. On the walls is a photography exhibition; though modern works, as artworks they blend well with the old residence.

Walking on the 'golden bricks' underfoot, feeling the upturned eaves and carved beams – it is these historical sediments that create Ahn Luh, steeped in ancient charm and heartfelt simplicity.

Opposite Wufenglou is the late-Qing opera stage, also over a century old. Its front eaves have coiling dragon golden pillars, and the ceiling features a domed caisson. The whole stage is resplendent, with opera characters and classical legends carved into history.

During cherry blossom season, the two weeping cherry trees on either side sway enchantingly in the breeze, especially alluring.

In the evening, not wanting to leave the hotel, we decided to try Ahn Luh's cuisine. For a larger group, I recommend their private dining room. The room faces Wufenglou, and when you open the door, you see the opera stage. Floor-to-ceiling glass on two sides lets the scenery blend into the room – private and serene.

Coming to Zhujiajiao, naturally we had to try the local water-town specialty. Among them, white fish, one of the 'Three Whites of Taihu Lake,' is a must-try. I used to think white fish was bony and bland when steamed, but Ahn Luh overturned that impression – their white fish had the delicate flavor of shad. Truly unique.

Yanduxian is a classic Shanghai dish, perfect for the season, especially in spring when bamboo shoots are tender. A bowl of this old Shanghai-style soup warms both heart and stomach.

But my favorite was their Mango Pomelo Sago dessert – sweet but not cloying, with a scoop of ice cream added just right.

Their dishes, in presentation and taste, are very child-friendly. The vibrant colors tempted Casper to try everything, and the light, wholesome flavors meant I could let him eat without worry.

After dinner, back in the room, turn-down service had been done. A special healthful dessert inspired by the 24 solar terms ensured a good night's sleep.

In the morning, we had pre-ordered breakfast in-room: one Chinese, one Western, satisfying both Old Xue's and my different palates.

Morning sunlight streamed through the floor-to-ceiling windows, warmly filling the room and starting the day with a sense of ritual – how wonderful. The two foodies beside me were already raring to dig in.

The day before, we had booked a morning tai chi class with the butler. I didn't know much about tai chi, but that didn't stop me from experiencing the charm of this ancient Eastern exercise.

The hotel had placed tai chi uniforms in the closet. After changing, I took Casper, and in the morning light, we practiced tai chi inside the Da Fu Di courtyard, cultivating body and mind.

Each punch and posture, feeling the harmony of yin and yang between heaven and earth. Every move uses stillness to overcome motion, softness to conquer hardness – as if time stood still in each breath...

While Mom practiced martial arts, the son couldn't stay idle; he grabbed a brush, splashed ink, and doodled, looking determined to learn literature.

After class, I took my son for a wander inside Wufenglou.

Looking up from the lobby to the second floor, the row of wooden windows is the Shuxiang Pavilion (Library). In the past, it was the young lady's embroidery tower, the women's secluded boudoir.

Now it has become Shuxiang Pavilion, as the name suggests, Ahn Luh's library. Quiet and serene, it's a perfect place to read.

On one side up the stairs is a children's play area. With this treasure spot, Casper settled down for a while. Even with a child, I could steal a moment to read a few chapters of a beloved book.

In a corner of Shuxiang Pavilion, there's a table with sutra scrolls, brush, ink, paper, and inkstone. Copying sutras easily calms a restless heart; time slips through your fingers, and you sit for a long while.

It was Casper's first encounter with brush and ink, so naturally novel; he pretended to doodle on the paper, very amusing. Traditional culture must be passed down – for architectural craftsmen, for literati. Letting children learn more about Chinese traditional arts broadens their horizons, increases knowledge, and teaches tradition. Perhaps that's one reason I chose Ahn Luh.

Their spa and Yangxin Pavilion are also highlights, but unfortunately they were closed due to the pandemic. We'll save that unique indulgence for next time.

We packed our bags in the room and set off for our second stop: Lanting Ahn Luh in Shaoxing.

Escaping into a Fairyland Far from the Hustle

From Zhujiajiao in Shanghai to Shaoxing, it's about a two-hour drive. After exiting the Shao-Zhu Expressway, you'll arrive in about five minutes.

Lanting Ahn Luh is named after Wang Xizhi's 'Preface to the Orchid Pavilion Poems.' The entire hotel was built to recreate the scene described in the poem: 'lofty mountains and bamboo groves, clear streams and rushing torrents,' – poetic and dreamlike.

If Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh is a boudoir hidden in a millennia-old town, then Lanting Ahn Luh in Shaoxing is a fairyland at the foot of mountains, absorbing the essence of heaven and earth.

Like Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh, the buildings here were relocated from Huizhou and restored to their original appearance, renovated to look old.

We parked in the lot, and a shuttle came to pick us up. Actually, the lobby isn't far from the parking; I'd recommend walking if you're not laden with luggage, because you'll pass many beautiful cherry blossom paths.

The hotel lobby is in Jiangjunfu (General's Mansion), also moved from Anhui, a typical Huizhou building. With double light wells, it's very bright. A massive, dignified 'winter melon beam' is a treasure of the entire structure.

In Jiangjunfu, you can see numbered marks on the pillars everywhere. This isn't some naughty kid's doing, but markings made by workers for accurate restoration. Rebuilding ancient architecture is a complex, time-consuming project. The building is dismantled at its original site, each piece numbered and recorded before gradual reassembly. Old craftsmen are sought, old materials found, to restore the original appearance as much as possible. The process sounds methodical, but every step is a challenge. As the number of ancient architecture craftsmen dwindles and old timber erodes with time, you realize this is not just a house, but a treasure of human architectural culture.

At Lanting Ahn Luh, you might truly understand the meaning of 'Without cultural heritage, how can a true legend begin?'

We checked in at the lobby. Yangming Pavilion seems to be the star room type here – each is a standalone old residence with its own courtyard. That's the essence of Ahn Luh. Each one is from the personal collection of the owner, Mr. Zhong. Unable to bear seeing old houses demolished due to decay, he collected them, then invested heavily to hire many ancient architecture masters and traditional craftsmen to carve and restore them, bringing back the old homes' vitality.

Yangming Pavilion differs little in layout from other types; what differs is the view. Yangming Pavilion faces bamboo-forested mountains, while the pavilions are built by the water, with views across to the rolling hills on the opposite shore.

If at Zhujiajiao Ahn Luh we stayed in a room, then at Lanting Ahn Luh we stayed in a residence.

A courtyard in front for flower-viewing and listening to rain; a balcony at the back to gaze at bamboo groves.

A house with a courtyard is perfect for bringing children; it becomes their little paradise, watching flowers, grass, stones – their world.

If you've stayed at Aman Summer Palace, you might feel a sense of déjà vu here, because it's also designed by Aman's signature designer Jaya; the layout is very orderly.

The living room is in the middle, with the bedroom and bathroom on either side – three spaces almost equal in size, so you can imagine how spacious it is.

Open the two doors, and the mountain scenery comes into view.

The high ceiling makes the room feel spacious and bright; even as an old house, it's not gloomy. Lying in bed at night, looking up at the tall beams, I truly felt like I'd traveled back centuries, as if I'd become a refined lady in the General's Mansion.

Although in the mountains, the room has air conditioning and underfloor heating, so no need to worry about Casper catching cold running around barefoot.

The room also prepared child-friendly toiletries, and a vintage little red umbrella – perfect for the atmosphere here. But Casper didn't know how to use it and turned it into a hat.

Lanting Ahn Luh is definitely a great place to escape the hustle. The hotel's exclusive green mountains and clear waters keep away crowds, creating a uniquely tranquil spot.

Strolling along Ruoye Stream with Casper, birdsong and flowing water filled our ears.

Ruoye Music Hall, next to Ruoye Stream, is also a relocated traditional Huizhou building complex, available for meetings. Surrounding it is a cherry blossom grove; during the season, it's perfect for a stroll with children. The gray tiles and white walls of Huizhou architecture, against cherry branches in full bloom, are picturesque.

Further along the path is Lanting's spa and activity center. The deep blue pool reflects white walls and black tiles; in summer, it must be a great place for water fun.

Leaving the pool, passing a waterside pavilion, there are stone steps. We were wondering why they were arranged that way when a staff member explained that many activities are held here – wine tastings, or morning yoga, absorbing the energy of mountains and water. No wonder Ahn Luh doesn't provide indoor gym facilities; having chosen to retreat, one naturally blends with heaven and earth.

Continuing upstream, you come upon a whole lake view that is instantly refreshing. Casper spotted schools of small fish and gleefully watched them swim. The reflections of old Huizhou houses made a natural painting.

Lanting Ahn Luh is actually in a valley, surrounded by mountains. One of them is a branch of the famous Kuaiji Mountain in Shaoxing, hiding fascinating cultural treasures. If you like hiking, you can follow the stone steps; there's a path exclusive to Lanting guests leading to one of the Taoist Ten Grotto-Heavens – Longrui Palace. If you still have energy, continue up to the viewing pavilion halfway up the mountain, where you can overlook the entire Lanting Ahn Luh.

With Casper, I naturally gave up that idea. Maybe when he's older, he can help me climb...

Children should belong to nature; amidst this landscape, Casper released his innate innocence.

The hotel is really large. After a stroll, it was getting late, so we chose to dine at the hotel's all-day dining restaurant, which is close to our room; all three meals could be taken care of there.

Shaoxing is in the Jiangnan region, so its specialties suit Shanghainese tastes. But here you must try seasonal dishes and the local specialties like cured meats. I especially loved the chef's presentation, turning each dish into an artwork; just looking at them whets the appetite.

To test if ingredients are fresh, if food is delicious and tempting, I believe a child's palate is the most honest. Casper couldn't resist climbing onto the table, spooning one after another of the seafood silk soup, and mouthfuls of rich, smooth foie gras.

The combination of crab roe and orange was also his favorite. And since we were in Shaoxing, we had to try the most characteristic soy sauce steamed dish with various cured meats – a flavor only found during Chinese New Year. The handmade pan-fried buns are also a specialty; I heard the chef who makes them won a Shaoxing dim sum award. Unlike Shanghai's shengjian, the dough is crisp and soft, crunchy and fragrant.

After dinner, I gave Casper a bath, and miraculously he went to bed after 8 p.m. Extra activity is indeed a good way to regulate his routine. We then had more time to ourselves – a rare quiet moment.

Family Fun Time Begins

Waking up, we opened the door to green mountains, clear waters, blue sky, and white clouds. We had pre-ordered breakfast in-room at 8:30; it was punctual. Again, Chinese and Western, but with different selections. Casper gulped down a bowl of hot noodles, ready for the new day.

Today we planned to take Casper to a strawberry farm to pick strawberries. It's about a 10-minute drive from Ahn Luh. I used to not understand why people do this – you can buy cheap, delicious strawberries, why go pick them yourself? After going, I realized it's the joy of life, especially for a child.

This was Casper's first time picking strawberries. Holding a little basket, he was very excited. The farm was very clean, with many sheds of different sizes and various strawberry varieties.

Some grew on the ground, others on raised racks for easy picking. Casper's first reaction upon seeing a strawberry was not to put it in the basket, but into his mouth – well, as a human instinct, nothing wrong with that.

As he picked, he gained experience. Casper, with a serious face, studied which strawberry was redder and tastier. If he couldn't pick one, he called softly for Mom, and I'd eagerly go help.

Once in his basket, it was his; no one else could touch it – quite a sense of ownership.

The picked strawberries were weighed in the basket; 35 yuan per jin isn't cheap, but it's buying fun. Thinking about the many berries probably crushed by my son made it seem quite worthwhile.

Come, look at our bounty~

Days at Lanting Ahn Luh felt especially carefree, maybe because of the lake, the scenery, or the old houses steeped in history – they stopped time and calmed restless hearts.

Back at the restaurant, when the weather is right, you must have afternoon tea here. The spacious terrace overlooks lush greenery, with white walls and black tiles blending in, enjoying a sweet afternoon tea in laid-back bliss.

During cherry blossom season, of course, you should order a cherry blossom afternoon tea – exclusive to this season. The pink and pretty pastries, you can't help but kiss each one.

The desserts come in both savory and sweet varieties, small and exquisite, satisfying different tastes. One set was more than enough for the three of us; we even packed some to snack on the way back.

Our days at Ahn Luh were the greatest gain: finding a piece of pure land and a quiet heart. When summer cicadas sing, we'll return to catch up.

(Text and photos by Zhe Teng De Xiao Rou Tuan)