Follow Xia Ningbao to the Jiangnan Water Town – Zhujiajiao Ancient Town
In April 2020, we visited Zhujiajiao Ancient Town, a classic Jiangnan water town near Shanghai, where small bridges, flowing streams, and full spring blossoms awaited. A top choice for tourists, we wandered among grey bricks and white walls, soaking in the town's tranquility.
Zhujiajiao Ancient Town is situated in Qingpu District, Shanghai, adjacent to Dianshan Lake Scenic Area. A quintessential Jiangnan water town, its streets and alleys are crisscrossed by waterways, creating an elegant ambiance. The town boasts gardens, historical sites, traditional local snacks, and chic boutiques, making it the top choice for a nearby ancient town visit from Shanghai. Zhujiajiao is compact, easily explored on foot, and a half-day is enough for a quick tour.
As one of Shanghai's four famous ancient towns and a National Historic and Cultural Town (4A scenic spot), Zhujiajiao draws huge crowds. Located on the shores of Dianshan Lake in western Shanghai's Qingpu District, about 48 km from the city center, settlements and markets existed here over 1,700 years ago. The town is characterized by Jiangnan water town features—small bridges, flowing waterways, and waterside homes—with Ming and Qing dynasty charm. Highlights include Beidajie (the No. 1 Ming-Qing street), Fangsheng Bridge, and Zhuxi Garden. Local delicacies include: braised pork wrapped in reed leaves (zharou), pork-filled shaomai, roasted edamame, red-braised pork knuckle, grandma's rice dumplings, maltose candy, and stinky tofu. The ancient town has inns, bars, and cultural parks; it feels over-commercialized, bustling with crowds, every shopfront on both sides of ancient streets filled with merchants, people jostling. Many foreign tourists. We took Metro Line 17 from Hongqiao Railway Station to Zhujiajiao Station (about 40 minutes) and walked from the station. Entry to the town is free, but boat rides and some attractions require tickets.
This is Fangsheng Bridge, the iconic landmark of Zhujiajiao. Standing on the bridge, you can take in the entire water town panorama; it's a fantastic spot for photography.
Fangsheng Bridge spans the Caogang River, connecting the north and south parts of Zhujiajiao. It is the longest, largest, and tallest five-arched stone bridge in Shanghai. From the top of its high arches, you get a 360-degree view of white-walled, black-tiled houses and wooden boats passing beneath—perfect for photography. At sunset, watching the sun sink from the bridge or capturing the bridge in the golden light from the riverbank is incredibly poetic. The name "Fangsheng" means "setting free life," encouraging good deeds. The bridge was first built in 1571 (Ming Dynasty Longqing era) by Monk Xingchao of Cimen Temple, who funded it with 15 years of alms. He organized release ceremonies for aquatic animals on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month, a tradition that continues. Today, however, vendors often sell small fish or turtles to tourists for "release," making it commercial. The current bridge was reconstructed in 1812 (Qing Dynasty Jiaqing era). The majestic stone bridge features "Dragon Gate Stone" carved with eight lifelike coiling dragons. At the top, four stone lions with open mouths greet visitors, looking delightfully playful. The bridge has bamboo-style balusters, and the central path is inlaid with carved stone slabs. On the east end, a stele pavilion offers a resting spot; a stone embankment by the water allows boats to dock.
At the boat dock, each boat can hold about 10 people. The asking price is 180 yuan for a roughly 500-meter ride.
This is Beidajie, also known as "Yixian Jie" (One-Line Street), hailed as "Shanghai's No. 1 Ming-Qing Street." With over 400 years of history, the street stretches for more than a kilometer. The 300-meter section from Fangsheng Bridge in the east to Meizhou Lane in the west features the quintessential Ming-Qing architecture. Old residences line up closely, white-washed walls and grey tiles in harmonious disarray; narrow, winding alleys lead to hidden spots, stone paths twist and turn, and venerable shops crowd both sides, painting a nostalgic picture of Jiangnan water town life.
Quanhua Watercolour Art Museum is a non-profit private museum approved and registered by the Shanghai Municipal Administration of Culture, Radio, Film & TV. It is currently the only venue in China dedicated to collecting and exhibiting classic contemporary watercolour works. The museum has hosted solo exhibitions of over ten renowned contemporary Chinese watercolourists, including Chen Xidan, Lei Yu, Wang Weixin, Zhou Gang, Gong Yu, and Yang Yihui, as well as group and nominated exhibitions by Shanghai and Shenzhen watercolour societies.
Backing onto the Caogang River and adjacent to Fangsheng Bridge, Beidajie was a convenient hub for water and land transport in the town's early days, drawing merchants and making its trade surpass other towns. Teahouses, taverns, general stores, rice shops, and butcheries thrived here, making it the oldest commercial center that has prospered for centuries. It was once praised as "a three-li long street with a thousand shops." Today, century-old establishments still stand: "Handalong Sauce Garden" retains its antique charm; "Maosun Restaurant," a historic eatery, has reopened; the "Old Town Teahouse" is among the best in Shanghai's suburbs. Traditional workshops abound, alongside a dizzying array of antique, ceramic, flora-and-fauna, calligraphy and painting, local specialty, handicraft, and snack shops. Signboards flutter in the breeze, red lanterns hang high—a scene of bustling prosperity.
Beidajie is only three to four meters wide, narrowing to just two meters at its tightest point. Brick-and-wood buildings on both sides have eaves so close they almost touch, creating the unique "One-Line Street" sight. The residences feature upturned eaves, horse-head gables, lattice floor-to-ceiling windows, and old-fashioned vermilion-lacquered door panels, exuding a rich, classical elegance. The "Yunqiao Yule" (Melodious Bridge and Fishing Enjoyment) scenic spot, one of the original ten, has been reconstructed as a complex of antique-style buildings at the juncture of Beidajie and Meizhou Lane, shining anew.
In the photo below is Yuanjin Zen Temple, one of the twelve scenes of Qinghua Pavilion. Built during the Yuan Dynasty's Zhizheng period, it sits by the Caogang River and houses a statue of Chenzhou's Holy Mother, hence also called "Niangniang Temple." The current structure is a reconstruction; its entrance is small but opens into a world of its own. Despite facing the street, the temple is quiet, simple, and antique-looking. The compact layout features few but exquisitely carved Buddha statues, gleaming yet solemn. The Qinghua Pavilion at the back is renowned for its collection of painting and calligraphy by scholars, and its beautiful setting—climbing to the top offers sweeping views of the Zhuxi scenery. Historically, the temple stored important cultural relics and attracted literati during the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming a gathering place. Sadly, many treasures were lost in wars or stolen and sold by unscrupulous monks. By the late 1940s, few remained; most were taken over by the Jiangsu Cultural Relics Management Committee and are now in museums in Jiangsu, Suzhou, or preserved at the Qingpu County Museum. In the early 1950s, the temple was demolished. What remains are a few stone inscriptions, such as Wang Chang's "Record of Rebuilding Qinghua Pavilion" and Shen Guangying's "Record of Rebuilding the Main Hall," the only surviving relics.
Yuanjin Zen Temple is one of Zhujiajiao's attractions, full of antiquity, first built in the Yuan Dynasty. It's a Buddhist Zen temple, and because it enshrines the Chenzhou Holy Mother, locals call it Niangniang Temple. Though small in footprint, its design and architecture are exquisite. Interested visitors can explore, but note that admission is charged.
Next is Yongfeng Bridge, spanning the river and connecting East and West Lake Streets. Built in 1627 (Ming Dynasty Tianqi era), it is also called Yongfeng (Singing Wind) Bridge. The locals named it Yongfeng (Eternal Prosperity) hoping for everlasting abundance. The bridge's foundations are brick, and its surface is paved with stone slabs, making it a brick-and-stone structure. It appears ordinary and timeworn, but it bears witness to Zhujiajiao's history: one stone slab was shattered by a bomb in 1937, a poignant reminder. On November 8, 1937, Japanese planes bombed the ancient town for the third time since the war began, killing and injuring many, destroying numerous houses and landmarks. That day, a sulphur bomb landed on Yongfeng Bridge but miraculously did not explode; it only broke one stone slab before rolling into a manure pit beside the bridge, thus preventing a catastrophic fire that would have consumed nearby homes. Yongfeng Bridge stands as a living testimony to that bloody event and the ironclad evidence of Japanese aggression. The broken slab was repaired with cement, but the bridge retains its original form. To commemorate the national humiliation, the shattered stone was carved with the characters "Remember the Stone" and embedded as a stele at the bridge's foot, ensuring Zhujiajiao's people will never forget.
Behind the boat dock lies Kezhi Garden. It was closed on the day we visited, so we couldn't enter. According to information, it's in the northwest of Zhujiajiao, the largest garden in the area. With its small bridges and flowing water, a view at every turn, it's the most worthwhile paid attraction in the ancient town, known for its serene environment. Built from 1912 and completed 15 years later, it was the private residence of wealthy merchant Ma Wenqing. The garden is notable for its blend of Chinese and Western design and materials. The entrance faces a canal and looks unremarkable, but inside, especially after passing several halls, a vast garden unfolds. Kezhi Garden is divided into two parts: the "Ke" (study) garden, a living and learning area for the owner's family, and the "Zhi" (planting) garden, for leisure and cultivation. The name Kezhi symbolizes "study while not forgetting to plant," reflecting the owner's ideal of balancing scholarly pursuits with agricultural life.
In the distance is a church. Along many alleys, residents show their taste: they've set up simple flower racks or narrow flower beds by their doors, planting colorful blooms and greenery. Even passersby who don't shop feel refreshed just looking at them.
When in Zhujiajiao, you must try the meat zongzi (sticky rice dumplings). They come with egg yolk, or as large pork zongzi, starting at 6 yuan—reasonable. The dumpling may look greasy with chunks of fatty pork, but once you bite, it melts in your mouth; absolutely delicious.
This is the century-old teahouse. Teahouses and coffee shops are usually tucked away at the end of lanes, as the saying goes, "Good tea need not fear a deep alley." Mostly family-run, they are often converted from private homes but brim with creativity and a fresh, hip vibe. On a weekend afternoon, invite a couple of friends, grab a table, and sip tea or coffee by the lake, chatting or playing cards—an utterly pleasant way to relax.
In a quiet corner of the waterways, the warm spring sun shines on the boatman's shoulders—peaceful and serene.
Below is Tai'an Bridge, commonly known as Hejia Bridge. Built in 1584 (Ming Dynasty Wanli era), it's a single-arch stone bridge and the steepest in town. Two flagpole stones stand at the approaches, once used for hanging lanterns as navigation markers. Constructed from bluestone, its balustrade features a relief of "Flying Clouds Stone" reminiscent of the Yuan Dynasty, and since the nearby Yuanjin Zen Temple also dates to the Yuan, experts debate the bridge's actual history. A Qing dynasty poem goes: "Sun sets, fierce heat fades, in the pond a pale moon; singing drifts from the market, a fishing flute east of the creek; gently fanning away the heat, in short hemp clothes catching the breeze; strolling alone in the evening cool, an ancient temple and a bridge connect." The poem vividly captures people cooling off at dusk. The "ancient temple" refers to Yuanjin Zen Temple, and "the bridge" is Tai'an Bridge.
This is an old sauce garden from the Qing Dynasty.
We bought some pickled vegetables.
If you accidentally wander to the quiet end of the streets, the hustle and bustle fades away, you've likely entered the guesthouse area. Don't worry, you won't get lost. You can take a leisurely stroll; maybe you'll hear an old radio playing tunes from a window framed by dancing vines. Don't be afraid of the large dogs that might pass by—they're usually friendly, or at least won't bark. Just don't provoke them. On your way back, you can buy small souvenirs like ink wash paintings of Zhujiajiao, or local specialties like sesame candy to share with family.
This is Huimin Bridge, the only wooden bridge in the ancient town and the most unique one. With wooden planks and a roof of tiles and upturned eaves, it's also called a covered bridge (langqiao), offering shelter from rain and sun, hence the name "Huimin" (benefiting the people). From the bridge, you can admire neat stone embankments, whitewashed walls, and Ming-Qing architecture, with windows opening onto the water, and scenes of locals shopping by the canal—a quintessential Jiangnan water town picture. The bridge was originally known as Xinqiao (New Bridge) after an earlier repair, but by the 1950s, after a bridge was built near the City God Temple, its structure deteriorated and it was dismantled. In 1996, a local resident, Chen Shuchang, donated 100,000 yuan to rebuild the covered bridge in its original spot to boost tourism. The new bridge has a concrete core wrapped in wood, with a tiled roof and upturned eaves, blending perfectly with the ancient townscape and adding another scenic spot.
This is Ping'an Bridge, located at the entrance of Daxin Street. Built in the Ming Dynasty, it is a hybrid of brick, stone, and wood. The area was once called Ping'an Li (Peace Lane), hence the name. The bridge body and foundations are granite, the side railings are green brick, and the middle railing is two logs, simple and unadorned. Legend says it was built by Ming general Qi Jiguang's troops while marching against pirates. In honor of the Qi army's service, it's also called Qijia Bridge. Because they used local materials, the bridge has an uneven surface; when people walk on it, the stone slabs creak "ji-ge, ji-ge," but it remains sturdy and well-preserved.
Residential houses have all been converted into cafés and bars.
This is Fuxing Bridge, built in 1774 (Qing Dynasty Yongzheng era), at the western edge of the town. In ancient times, water towns had wooden gates that closed at night for safety, so this location at the west gate of Hulang Harbor is also called Xizha Bridge or Xishi Bridge. The bridge is well-preserved, tall and stately; its flagstones are mottled, and small trees grow from the stone crevices, adding a touch of grace. The couplet on the pillars reads: "Tides surge on Yue waters, a flying dragon lies; clouds touch Wu mountains, the moon hook hangs; one stream locks in auspicious air around; a thousand years see a rainbow bow." It beautifully captures the water town's charm at the border of Wu and Yue. Looking east from the bridge, you can take in the whole town with its imposing buildings, while westward lies a shining expanse of lake—a sense of good fortune and luck indeed.
The City God Temple is an auxiliary palace of the Qingpu City God. In 1763 (Qianlong 28th year), a Huizhou native, Cheng Lüji, moved it to its current site. The temple consists of a main gate, a stage, and the main hall, flanked by corridors, with a small winding stream and peach, plum, and willow trees, creating an elegant layout of 12 scenic spots. The stage's ceiling is a rare spiral dome formed by 160 interlocking brackets. Stone pillars on the sides bear the couplet: "Built this stage long ago, so enduring; watching past events—dream or truth?" with a horizontal plaque reading "Elegant Odes of Peace." It was listed as a county-level protection unit in 1986. The temple faces west; a screen wall stands by the river, with east and west side gates. A pair of stone lions holding embroidered balls, with soft curves, stand at the front. Inside, to the left and right are side halls; further ahead is the stone-column, fish-spined stage with upturned eaves. In front of the stage is a stone-paved square, beyond which is the main hall, housing the gentle, serene statues of the City God and his wife.
On either side of the main hall are corridors. Historically, the left side housed Yinqing Hall, Yuzhao Corridor, Yuexiang Chamber, and Zhaochun Terrace; the right side had Ninghe Study, Hejing Mountain Cottage, Tanying Pavilion, Keyu Studio, Yixiu Gallery, and Hanqing Waterside Pavilion. Ninghe Study was a gathering place for local scholars. In front of Tanying Pavilion was a lotus pond with rockeries; beside Hanqing Waterside Pavilion, a small creek with a stone bridge; hundreds of goldfish swam in the pond, surrounded by hibiscus, willows, and peach and plum trees. These pavilions, terraces, rockeries, and ponds were collectively known as the "Twelve Scenic Spots of the City God Temple," later restored to their former glory. The temple is also a key venue for Zhujiajiao's Daoist activities. Daoism honors Laozi (Li Dan) of the Eastern Zhou as its founder, known as Taishang Laojun, with four main sects. Zhujiajiao's followers mainly belong to the Zhengyi (Orthodox Unity) sect.
Today's final stop is the Great Qing Zhujiajiao Post Office. Founded in 1903, it was the earliest postal service in the area, one of Shanghai's 13 main post offices at the time, and the only remaining Great Qing Post Office site in East China. Thoroughly renovated, it retains the original layout while enhancing its appeal. By applying modern concepts, it revives a century of postal history and delves into China's postal heritage, adding a new highlight to Zhujiajiao.
Our Zhujiajiao tour complete. On the way back, buy some small crafts like Zhujiajiao ink wash paintings, or local specialties such as "sock sole" pastries (wadi su), oil-sesame, crispy candy, and white rice shrimp to share with family. The soft, misty spring waters of this river town bring a sudden peace to hearts long used to city chaos.
