A Two-Day Zhujiajiao Itinerary: Leisurely Stroll through Shanghai’s Most Japanese-style Tea House and Hot Spring Ancient Town
Zhujiajiao is probably one of Shanghai locals' favorite ancient towns. Situated within the city bounds, it has a long history and an abundance of things to see and eat. Nearby, there's also Oriental Land, a classic family-friendly destination. Compared with Xitang and Wuzhen, though less famous, it's relatively less crowded and more peaceful. Spending a weekend here, wandering around and resetting, is a great way to recharge.
Self-driving: The most convenient way to get to Zhujiajiao is by car. Just follow your GPS and you'll be fine.
Take the A9 exit from Yan'an Road Elevated Highway to the Zhujiajiao exit, or follow National Highway 318 to Zhujiajiao and then turn onto Xiangningbang Road.
Public transportation: There's no direct subway. The best way is to take the bus from the parking lot under the Yan'an East Road Elevated Highway at People's Square.
Our trip to Zhujiajiao was a spontaneous decision. With a school-age child, the three of us rarely have chances to travel together, mostly during winter/summer breaks and weekends. This weekend, luck was on our side—we happened to catch a rowing competition and a night market, making it much livelier than usual.
We stayed at Zhuli Kosa Hot Spring Hotel, right inside the ancient town. The location is fantastic—it's next to the old canal, just a two-minute walk to Fangsheng Bridge. So convenient; you can explore the town anytime, and it's no problem if you stay out late.
The entrance is unassuming, in keeping with Kosa's minimalist style—easy to miss if you're not paying attention. There's a security gate that requires a card, so it's very private and safe. Rooms use keys, so remember to lock your door.
Right inside, there's a karesansui (dry landscape) garden, very Japanese in style, with a small Buddhist altar. The ground is covered with white gravel, with carefully arranged rock groups creating a miniature landscape. In a dry landscape, 'water' is represented by sand and gravel, with occasional raked patterns to suggest flowing water, while 'mountains' are symbolized by rocks. If you put on a yukata, you can take a bunch of photos posing as if in Japan—fun too.
Zhuli Kosa is another creation of the Kosa series. 'Zhuli' comes from the ancient name of Zhujiajiao, while 'Kosa' is derived from the Buddhist scripture Abhidharma-kosa by Vasubandhu, a Chinese translation of the Sanskrit word 'kosa,' meaning a vessel for body and mind. Here you can enjoy relaxation for both body and mind, allowing you to temporarily leave the hustle and bustle of the modern world and return to a simpler past.
The lobby is filled with various decorations and handmade items, each exquisite. Some are for sale; if you like them, you can ask the price. There's a tea room and a space for sutra copying. They occasionally hold events—see if you're lucky enough to catch one.
The corridors are lower than in most places, which adds to the authentic Japanese feel. There's also a small courtyard inside.
Our room was on the third floor, named 'Aoi' (hollyhock), while others had names like 'Kiri' (paulownia) and so on, evoking The Tale of Genji. If you're into Japanese culture, you'll quickly appreciate the subtleties. The room is a Zen-style guesthouse, built in the style of a tea retreat—understated but quite spacious. Bathing facilities are complete, so you don't need to bring anything. Just remember it's nude bathing, so leave your swimsuit at home.
The room is consistent with the overall ambiance, with bamboo screens as partitions, tatami mats. Making some tea and snacking on little treats felt wonderful.
My husband started primping as soon as he got in, saying he'd been dragged out so hastily that he needed a shave before the hot spring. Why on earth would you need a shave for a hot spring? But I couldn't stop him.
His old three-blade electric shaver was always the 'burden' of every trip—either he'd be frantically searching for it before leaving or he'd realize he'd forgotten it, and he'd end up scruffy for days. Just as I was about to say 'shaving is pointless,' he pulled out his secret weapon: a Gillette travel kit. Turns out he'd dashed to Watsons right before we set off to buy it.
We were in a rush and hadn't had time to unbox it, so we just brought the whole package. I have to say, this razor looks pretty good. Don't think guys don't care about looks—when it comes to being particular, they can be even more finicky than girls.
What impressed me most about this travel kit was the included case—a black matte box the size of a glasses case, perfect for popping in your bag without taking up much room or scratching anything. It's also hygienic! I suddenly realized it even matched the Zen vibe of this trip.
My husband said his favorite thing is the five-blade design—really 'generous'! One shave does the work of several with other razors, leaving not a single stubble behind. Plus, the little ball under the head pivots in all directions, so it can handle even his square jawline, getting every corner. It's smooth and easy to use, saving time in the morning, perfect for travel or business trips.
It also comes with a 2-in-1 shaving foam and cleanser, which you can use for shaving and as a face wash to remove oil—super convenient. Especially with the Dragon Boat Festival approaching, it's getting hot and oily skin is a problem. It deep-cleans while you shave, helping to reduce oiliness. My husband says his colleague used it a few times, and now his face stays fresh all day!
Cleaning is so much easier than with an electric razor—just rinse with water and all the stubble is gone.
After he was done, we went to the baths together.
Do note that the baths have set hours, which differ on weekends and weekdays—morning, afternoon, and evening sessions are available. There are separate men's and women's baths. Zhuli Kosa brings Japanese bath culture here, allowing you to soak while enjoying the courtyard view. There are changing rooms, showers, and a dry sauna. First, rinse off thoroughly, then soak. It's a very authentic experience. My daughter loved it and said she didn't want to leave. A little one carefully reading the bathing instructions.
After bathing, it's time to go out and explore. Right nearby is Fangsheng Bridge, with sightseeing boats and a rowing club. There's loads of food. You can even enjoy yourself without crossing the bridge.
Zhujiajiao's main attractions include the City God Temple (Chenghuang Miao), the Great Qing Post Office, Yuanjin Zen Temple, Kezhi Garden, and Yixian Street. Yuanjin Zen Temple and the City God Temple are currently under renovation and closed to the public, but the others are open for those interested.
Every time I visit a water town, I take a boat ride, but this time I didn't—I just strolled along the river because I wanted to take photos. With the kid in tow, we snapped pictures all over. Like other water towns, Zhujiajiao has many side alleys; you can wander and lose track of where you are.
There's food everywhere along the way, so you'll never go hungry. The local specialty 'Grandma's Zongzi' is especially famous—a must-try. With the Dragon Boat Festival coming up, all the zongzi shops are bustling. They make them fresh on the spot; you can see the ingredients, loaded with meat, and huge. Another local specialty is 'smoked lasi' (a kind of snail), which originated in Qingpu and is hard to find elsewhere, so give it a try if you're here. A delicacy only the locals know about.
In the evening, I recommend going up Fangsheng Bridge for a panoramic view, because the sunset is breathtakingly beautiful.
We booked a terrace dinner at Xuanheli Boutique Hotel—even with a child, you need a romantic touch. The terrace is a small garden, with hydrangeas in full bloom. This is the highest viewpoint in the ancient town. We opened a bottle of sparkling wine for a candlelit dinner—I was very pleased with the arrangement.
After dinner, we strolled through the newly opened night market. There were distinctive rice wine drinks—almost non-alcoholic, and even better iced—along with various local products and crafts.
The night view was stunning too.
We had a good rest that night.
The next morning, breakfast was served on the second floor. Each room had a staff member to guide you, with name cards on tables, in private booths, and it was set-menu style. There was salmon and oden, both favorites of mine.
To my surprise, Sunday was even more crowded than Saturday, so we headed toward Yuanjin Zen Temple, and indeed, the crowd was less than half. This told us that sometimes, taking the road more traveled can also be an experience. Looking around here, this is the kind of tranquility a water town should have.
There are many riverside shops selling all kinds of food. Prices are typical for Shanghai, and you can grab a good spot and sit all afternoon.
The hanfu rental styles here aren't very attractive, so if you like wearing them, I suggest bringing your own for photos.
I really envy the residents of this ancient town. Our two-day trip ended all too quickly.
We'll go on another trip for the Dragon Boat Festival.