Shanghai, the City I Often Return to but Have No Home In
I was born in Zhengzhou and am a true Henan native. Yet the "ancestral hometown" column on my hukou points far away—all the way to Zhenhai, Zhejiang. In the late 1950s and early 1960s, to support the development of China's inland regions, my grandparents moved out of a lane dwelling on Shanghai's Bao'an Road. Along with the entire factory, they were loaded onto a train and brought to Zhengzhou. Growing up in my Zhengzhou home, I would hear the soft, sweet Shanghai dialect—my grandparents' pidgin chatter—and it stirred a deep contradiction in me. On the one hand, I disliked the petty shrewdness and arrogance I associated with Shanghainese; on the other, I was irresistibly drawn to Shanghai's profound cultural heritage, feeling that part of my roots were there. So every year or two I would find a way to spend a few days in Shanghai, wandering its old streets, savoring my favorite foods. But that city has never been home to me. What follows isn't really travel advice, because the places I go are rather monotonous—always the same few spots. I simply want to share some of my brief trips to Shanghai.
Zhouzhuang Ancient Town actually belongs to Kunshan, which is often called Shanghai's backyard, just over an hour's drive away. Entry is free after 8:30 pm and before 8:00 am. Many guesthouses inside the scenic area are clean and affordable, so I recommend booking one there. Go in after 8:30, and explore the next morning before leaving. Zhouzhuang's most iconic sight is the Twin Bridges painted by Chen Yifei, and the snacks at the restaurant right beneath them are absolutely authentic. As you learn about Shen Wansan's legends while nibbling on a Wansan pork leg, strolling among whitewashed walls, flowing streams, and old-fashioned houses, you'll feel transported to another era.
Hongkou District is an old part of the city, and most of its residents are native Shanghainese. Local seniors eat well and live long lives thanks to the clean air, so you'll see many elderly people on its small streets and in its parks. The best-known landmarks are Hongkou Stadium and Hongkou Park (now Lu Xun Park). The park was renamed because several of Lu Xun's former residences are nearby. Bao'an Road, where my father was born, is also very close.
Duolun Road Historical Celebrities Street is just six or seven hundred meters from Lu Xun Park. It's also a free, quiet spot with few tourists. Many notable modern Chinese figures lived here, including the story of Lu Xun and the owner of Uchiyama Bookstore. Seeing the "Private Residence, Please Do Not Disturb" signs on some doors makes me really envy those homeowners.
Tianzifang is easily reached by metro. It's a creative hub transformed from old Shikumen-style lanes, and any artsy visitor to Shanghai should definitely swing by for some Instagram-worthy shots. What's special is that people still live here—you might be walking through an alley and glance up to see a granny's laundry hanging overhead. Unfortunately, creativity is gradually losing out to commerce, with many unique shops replaced by high-margin stalls selling kebabs and fruit tea. Below I've included a few photos from years ago, when I first visited and was truly amazed. I also recommend a restaurant next to Tianzifang: I once thought I'd never find authentic Yangchun noodles again, but this place serves the real Shanghai deal.
If you want to visit Xintiandi, go in the evening. There's a bar street, luxury malls, and the site of the First National Congress of the CPC. I think the First, Second, and Fourth Congresses were all held in Shanghai—what about the Third? I don't have suitable photos, so I'll just drop a couple random ones here.
For Yuyuan Garden, aim for around 4 or 5 p.m. The garden's Nine-Turn Bridge often appeared in scenic pictures and postcards from the '70s and '80s. The renovated Yuyuan is now more resplendent and tidier than before. Be sure to visit the anime figurine shop—it may be the largest in the country.
After Yuyuan, head east to the Huangpu River. Soak in the Bund's nightscape, Pudong's light show, and the old riverfront architecture, then explore Nanjing Road. The handcrafted old Shanghai pastries sold outside a few food stores there are a must-try, and Shanghai First Food Store is worth wandering. Sadly, the pork floss isn't as authentic as it once was—and it's no longer cheap. The most incredible thing is that even on a busy street like Nanjing Road, you can still find alleys with families living in them.
Shanghai has countless old streets and buildings. I suggest renting a shared bike and cycling down Wukang Road to see the Wukang Mansion—the "land battleship"—glowing in the sunset. This city shows off its staggering glamour along the Bund and in Lujiazui, while hiding all its gentle, delicate charm deep inside courtyard villas and lanes. Wukang Road is exactly that—an unfading Shanghai dream. Before 1949, the buildings here were all luxury homes; now many courtyards have been turned into private clubs, completely off-limits to the public.
Cross the river to Lujiazui in Pudong, where you can look down over the Huangpu River and the Bund from two places: the Oriental Pearl Tower's observation deck or Shanghai Tower's. There's another option, too: the Duoyun Books on the 52nd floor of Shanghai Tower. Reserve a slot online, order a coffee, and you can take in the view at your leisure.
The outskirts of Shanghai are dotted with ancient towns: Fengjing, Zhujiajiao, Xinchang, and Qibao Old Street. I've visited two, both free. Xinchang Ancient Town is essentially a residential area, perfect for a leisurely walk with reasonably priced goods. Qibao is heavily commercialized, accessible by metro, but often packed and crowded.
