【Suzhou Creek Tour】Beyond 'The Eight Hundred' and Sihang Warehouse, Many More Check-in Spots

📍 Shanghai · 👁 11 reads · ❤️ 120 likes

The war film "The Eight Hundred" has brought the once-forgotten Sihang Warehouse quietly standing by Suzhou Creek back into the public eye, making it a hot check-in spot these days, and Suzhou Creek itself has ridden the wave of attention. On both sides of the creek, once dilapidated old warehouses and buildings have been transformed into memorial halls, museums, art studios, and trendy icon spots, full of petit bourgeois charm. It's well worth spending a leisurely afternoon, strolling for an hour or two along the water, tracing history, comparing past and present, and soaking in the scenery.

Ziyu Residence Hotel Bund Branch sits right on Suzhou Creek, near Nanjing East Road under the Henan Road Bridge, only 1.3 km from Sihang Warehouse. This stretch is the highlight, with splendid historical architecture and glittering river views. So here is a City Walk route starting from Ziyu Residence Bund.

From Ziyu Residence Bund, head west along Suzhou Creek, do a round trip, and return. Total about 5.5 km, walking 1–2 hours. Two sections can be done by metro or bus to save time and footwork.

① Former Site of Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce

② Embankment Building

③ Shanghai Postal Museum

④ Sihang Warehouse Battle Memorial

⑤ Sihang Tiandi + Sihang 195 Creative Park

⑥ Former Fuxin Flour Mill No.1 (Suhe Art Center)

⑦ South Suzhou Creek Creative Park

⑧ Bridge 8 Art Space 1908 Granary

⑨ Bailian Fashion Center (Yanqingli)

Right in front of Ziyu Residence Bund, cross the Henan Road Bridge and you're at the former Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce. Over a century, it has witnessed many firsts: the first commercial library, the first draft of China's commercial law, the first monthly journal "General Chamber of Commerce", the first commercial arbitration office, the first generation of Chinese industrial and commercial entrepreneurs… Today, the world's 6th and China's 2nd Bulgari Hotel stands here. The three-story building that once dominated the Shanghai scene has become the only Chinese restaurant among the six Bulgari Hotels—Bao Li Xuan, a Michelin one-star Cantonese restaurant. Next to it, the 48-story skyscraper is the Bulgari Hotel. On the ground floor lobby, there's China's first Bulgari chocolate boutique, each piece embossed with the logo. Price? Around 100+ yuan per piece~

Across the road from the chamber is the famous Embankment Building. This "∽"-shaped structure covering 7,000 sqm was built by Sassoon & Co., then Shanghai's largest real estate player. It was the largest apartment building by total floor area in Shanghai at the time, hailed as the "No.1 Apartment in the Far East." The building could house over 700 families, more than 2,000 people, and had a ground-floor swimming pool. It was Shanghai's earliest "waterfront residence," rented mainly to British, American, and Spanish people initially. Later, many famous American and British film companies had offices here until after the founding of New China, including: Universal Pictures, Columbia Pictures, MGM, Motion Picture Association of America, RKO Pictures, United Artists, and British Lion Films. After liberation, the building housed senior intellectuals, historians, painters, etc. There are luxury apartments worth tens of millions, and tiny 7-8 sqm rented rooms. Over 80 years later, many parts still retain their original vintage British style. Ann Hui's film "The Postmodern Life of My Aunt" starring Chow Yun-fat, Zhao Wei, and Siqin Gaowa was also shot here.

The most beautiful building on Suzhou Creek is the Shanghai Postal Museum, right next to the Embankment Building by Sichuan Road Bridge. Originally the Shanghai General Post Office, it was one of the top ten buildings in Shanghai. Roman Corinthian columns, an Italian Baroque-style clock tower, Greek mythological sculptures symbolizing communication, a dreamy golden spiral staircase, and the "No.1 Hall of the Far East" that could fit six basketball teams… Gorgeous and photogenic from any angle! The Shanghai Postal Museum is China's first postal museum. Exhibits include replicas of historically significant mail carriages, mail boats, cars, trains, airplanes, a Qing-dynasty postal counter, a high-tech RFID mail sorting prototype, and a circular-screen theater (temporarily closed). The 5th-floor rooftop garden offers views of the clock tower and sculptures, overlooking Suzhou Creek and the Bund, also currently closed. The museum also displays many precious stamps and postmarks, such as a black penny old stamp with a Maltese cross cancellation, China's first set of Large Dragon stamps, the first stamps of various countries (top 50), and stamps in unique shapes. Admission is free. It's best to make a reservation in advance. Opening hours are Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday 9:00–17:00, last entry at 16:00. The exterior is beautiful at night too!

After visiting the Postal Museum, exit right, walk 300 m west along Tiantong Road, take Metro Line 12 one stop to Qufu Road Station, then walk another 300 m to Sihang Warehouse. Or if you're feeling energetic, you can walk along Suzhou Creek directly from the museum, about 1.5 km, 20–30 minutes.

Sihang Warehouse was jointly funded by the "Northern Four Banks"—Yien Yieh, Kincheng, China & South Sea Bank, and Continental Bank. The five-story reinforced concrete structure covers 11,984 sqm, the largest and sturdiest storage building on the north bank at the time. Those who've seen "The Eight Hundred" know the history of the Defense of Sihang Warehouse well. If you haven't, watch it first. Then the bullet-riddled walls from the battle will hit you differently.

The Sihang Warehouse Battle Memorial has been established on the original site and is now extremely popular. Remember to book in advance to avoid being turned away. Closed Mondays! The exhibition is in six parts, starting with a letter home written by Xie Jinyuan to his wife Ling Weicheng before heading to the Songhu battlefield. The museum's treasures are two sets of photos: "Sihang Warehouse in the Flames of War" and "The Isolated Army Withdrawing from Sihang Warehouse."

To the right of the memorial is a beautiful red building, "Sihang Tiandi." It was the original Bank of China warehouse from the 1930s, redesigned by renowned Chinese architect Lu Qianshou into a high-end industrial park.

To the left, walk about 130 m along the river to Sihang 195 Creative Park, Shanghai's earliest creative park—TS Creative Warehouse. This building was part of Sihang Warehouse and one of the battlefields. It was co-designed by the famous Jewish architect Laszlo Hudec, who also designed the Park Hotel!

The former Fuxin Flour Mill No.1 belonged to the famous Rong family. It was the first flour mill opened by Rong Zongjing and Rong Desheng (father of former PRC Vice President Rong Yiren). Their "Bing Chuan" (War Junk) trademark was the first registered trademark in Chinese history. The Rong family eventually owned 12 flour mills, producing about one-third of the nation's flour, earning the title "Flour King." After 1949 it became Shanghai No.1 Garment Factory. Now it's the Suhe Art Center, founded in 2005 by Norwegian-Chinese Mr. Yuan Wen'er and his wife Ms. Lisa, focusing on experimental and cutting-edge contemporary art events.

Across the river from Suhe Art Center, next to Jiuzi Park, is South Suzhou Creek Creative Park, a Shanghai cultural landmark developed by renowned Taiwanese architect Teng Kun-yen. The park includes three buildings: the East Building is the former No.5 Warehouse of China Textile Construction Company; the North Building was once Du Yuesheng's private granary and won the 2004 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation, the first in Mainland China to receive this award.

From South Suzhou Creek Creative Park, head east along the river and in a few steps you reach Bridge 8 Art Space 1908 Granary. The name gives it away—this was another of Du Yuesheng's granaries. It is said Du owned three granaries on the south bank of Suzhou Creek. Built in 1908, the granary was originally the No.2 Warehouse of the Imperial Bank of China, the first bank founded by Chinese and Shanghai's earliest Chinese-funded bank. Du Yuesheng served as chairman and general manager and later used it as his private granary. Today, the ground floor houses the bustling Beer Lady (beer bar), the second floor is an art space with modern works, and the third floor is the empty granary. Floors two and three are free, and lots of young ladies come for photos. PS: 1908 Granary is very close to Xinzha Road Metro Station (Line 1). If you're tired, take bus 19/64 from Exit 1 straight back to Ziyu Residence.

If you want to finish the whole route, continue east along the Suzhou Creek promenade; this section has nice greenery. After about 800 m, crossing the Tibet Road Bridge, you'll see a huge grey British-style old warehouse—this is Yanqingli. The owner was Zhou Xiangyun, the preeminent "Real Estate King" of old Shanghai, from a self-made Ningbo real estate family. At his death, the Zhou family fortune reached 80 million, ranking fifth among the Municipal Council's taxpayers. Two relics he collected, Huai Su's "Bitter Bamboo Shoots" and Mi Youren's "Xiaoxiang Wonderland," are now Shanghai Museum treasures, a sign of his power.

Today, Yanqingli has been transformed into the "Bailian Group Yanqingli Fashion Center." Designed by Stefano Boeri, master planner of the Milan Expo and father of the "Vertical Forest," it won the 2019 MIPIM Asia Award for "Best Refurbished Building" and is now a top Asia-Pacific project. It frequently hosts international fashion shows, launches, art exhibitions, industry forums, and academic lectures—truly a trend hub in Shanghai.

Leaving Yanqingli, head east along the river back to Ziyu Residence Hotel. After an afternoon circling Suzhou Creek, dusk nears. The sky darkens and the bridge lights come on; each bridge has a unique design and lighting. The quiet water reflects the lights, winding gently in the evening breeze toward the Bund. A beautiful evening! After recalling the scarred history, it feels all the more precious.

Ziyu Residence Hotel (Bund Branch) is located under Henan Road Bridge, opposite the former Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce ①, and only 800 m from the Bund and Waibaidu Bridge. You can also start from Ziyu Residence Bund, first walk along the south bank of Suzhou Creek to the Bund, visiting the Bund Origin, church, People's Heroes Monument, Lovers' Wall, etc., then cross Waibaidu Bridge and head west along the north bank to start your visit at the Shanghai Postal Museum ③. For the Bund section guide, please refer to my other guide: "3 Days to See the Best of Shanghai! Follow This Guide."

The Bund branch is the first Shanghai store of Ziyu Residence boutique hotel chain. The entrance retains the original Shikumen gate, showcasing old Shanghai lane culture. The lobby has bright colors and a youthful vibe, reflecting Ziyu Residence's youthful international spirit. Before the pandemic, Ziyu Residence was one of the most popular hotels among foreign tourists in the Bund area. Room design uses traditional tones, blending with the surrounding lane house character. The unique window lattice light and the everyday Shanghai dialect of neighbors create an old Shanghai retro atmosphere, letting you truly "live in" Shanghai.

Stepping outside, time switches back to modern Shanghai. Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street is steps away, local food is available 24/7, and the airport and train stations are directly accessible… You can enjoy the perks of Shanghai's most bustling district without paying a premium! Additionally, Ziyu Residence Hotel Nanjing East Road Branch and Lanting International Youth Hostel are nearby. Whether solo or in a group, there's a suitable room. Before the pandemic, these two were also the most popular accommodations among foreign tourists in the Bund-Nanjing East Road area.

【Ziyu Residence Nanjing East Road Branch】Right at Exit 6 of Nanjing East Road Metro Station. Besides standard rooms, there are suites where you can hear the Bund bells. The lobby is an elegant red wine café with award-winning coffee beans. American coffee special 9.9 yuan, afternoon tea set (latte + cake) only 30 yuan, generous, tasty, and affordable.

【Lanting International Youth Hostel】Member of Hostelling International (111-year-old world's largest accommodation network). Before the pandemic, almost exclusively young foreigners stayed here; now there are still many (stranded in China), perfect for making friends and practicing spoken English. Same coffee as Ziyu Residence, plus huge public spaces: book corner, tatami, billiards, bar counter, large terrace. Besides standard rooms and suites, dorm rooms (4-8 people) are cheap, ideal for solo travelers. 300 m from Nanjing East Road Station exit.

Autumn wind rises, the night has turned cool,

After watching "The Eight Hundred,"

Take a walk along Suzhou Creek!

Travelogue Directory

1. General Route

2. Former Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce

3. Embankment Building

4. Shanghai Postal Museum

5. Sihang Warehouse Battle Memorial

6. Sihang Tiandi + Sihang 195 Creative Park

7. Former Fuxin Flour Mill No.1 / Suhe Art Center

8. South Suzhou Creek Creative Park