In Search of Shanghai’s ‘Roots’: Meet the Surprisingly Hip Songjiang
Shanghai is huge! After many visits, I always find new surprises. The city's rhythm is fast—traffic jams seem to happen at the drop of a hat, and the subway and buses are always packed. But that's also its charm as a global metropolis! I've explored the downtown area plenty of times, so this time I wanted to dig beneath the glitz and glamour to really understand Shanghai's origins. That's what drew my attention to Songjiang District. Why Songjiang? Because archaeological digs at the Guangfulin site in Songjiang have uncovered a 4,000-year-old Shanghai settlement, including five tombs with preserved human remains, along with artifacts from the Neolithic era and the Zhou, Han, Song, and Yuan dynasties. These finds offer rich material for reconstructing the ancient history of Songjiang—and even Shanghai as a whole. That's why Songjiang is known as the 'Root of Shanghai,' the very source of the city.
My two-day trip to Songjiang included eight stops: Guangfulin Cultural Relics Park, Yunjian Granary, Thames Town, Sijing Ancient Town, Shanghai Film Park, Laiyifen Snack Museum, Fangta Park, and Zuibaichi Park. Overall, my impression was this: Songjiang may be Shanghai's 'root,' but its attractions are anything but old-fashioned. They're modern, stylish, and full of 'internet-famous' flair—perfectly in tune with Shanghai's vibe. Don't believe me? Come see for yourself!
**Guangfulin Cultural Relics Park**
Guangfulin, originally called Huangfulin or Guangfulin, was part of the Huating Valley in ancient times and nurtured the brilliant Guangfulin culture. It was the cultural, political, economic, and transportation hub of eastern Dongwu during the early epochs... until Huating County was established in the Tang Dynasty, and the Ming and Qing dynasties brought greater glory to Songjiang. The area is steeped in history. While the current park doesn't consist solely of remnants, the comprehensive exhibition halls are a fantastic place to learn about the history and culture of Songjiang and Shanghai.
I found the modern architecture inside Guangfulin Cultural Relics Park to be aesthetically pleasing and a sight to see on its own. Inside the museum halls, I eagerly soaked up historical facts. For instance, rice cultivation was already widespread here as far back as the late Neolithic period, 4,000 to 5,000 years ago—a sign of advanced agricultural practices.
The Guangfulin Archaeological Exhibition Hall is a must-visit. It consists of three independent galleries and a main hall, displaying 159 sets of artifacts. Among them, three bronze zun vessels are the first ritual bronzes ever unearthed in Guangfulin. As part of the early Zhou dynasty ritual culture, these bronzes suggest that Guangfulin was already a developed society—a finding of great significance.
**Yunjian Granary**
Songjiang has a poetic alternate name: 'Yunjian' (meaning "among the clouds"). After the founding of the People's Republic, a large grain warehouse was built next to Fangta Park in the southern part of old Songjiang, and it was named 'Yunjian Granary.' With Shanghai's rapid development, the granary lost its original purpose, but the buildings were preserved and transformed into a cultural industrial park. Many abandoned factories in China have become trendy hotspots—like Chongqing’s Eling No. 2 Factory, made famous by a movie, or Chengdu’s Eastern Suburb Memory. So I had high expectations for Yunjian Granary before I even arrived.
Back in the Ming Dynasty, Songjiang was a major source and storage site for imperial grain taxes and a key grain distribution hub for the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region, fostering a unique grain culture. Today’s Yunjian Granary preserves many Soviet-style warehouses built shortly after 1949, with distinct architectural features that reflect the influence of Soviet industrial and agricultural design—common in Chinese factories at the time. The peeling walls and rusty equipment now stand as witnesses to Songjiang's rapid transformation.
The new landmarks of Yunjian Granary include artistic graffiti, galleries, and trendy pubs, making it a great spot for leisure, travel, and soaking up art and culture. I especially loved the murals—I photographed almost every single one.
**Thames Town**
The moment you enter Thames Town, you realize it's an Instagram-worthy destination. From the overall layout to every brick and tile, it exudes authentic European charm. The vibrant buildings, set against a clear blue sky, made for a perfect encounter. This large-scale community combines residential, tourism, and leisure functions. Each block feels different, and there's a 400-mu lake and a picturesque marina, so the scenery changes with every step. (I quietly muttered to myself: I’m so jealous of the people who live here!)
Over 200,000 square meters of Thames Town are dedicated to public facilities and commercial services, including fitness clubs, art galleries, and the Thames Town Catholic Church. My top recommendation is the chain bookstore Zhongshuge. As a pioneer among China's 'trendy bookstores,' Zhongshuge is seen as a benchmark for the transformation of physical bookstores and has given the fading world of paper books a fresh approach. If you're a literary youth who loves printed books, you've definitely heard of it—not only for its book collection but also because it's incredibly photogenic.
Thames Town's artsy vibe doesn't stop there. Even the mode of transport to get here is special: bright yellow trams that roll along the streets, so eye-catching you'll feel like you've stepped onto the European continent.
**Sijing Ancient Town**
Shanghai has a deep historical heritage, with many famous ancient towns. But Sijing Ancient Town, in the northeastern part of Songjiang, is less well-known. In fact, it has a history of over a thousand years, with a saying: 'A hundred years of Shanghai, a thousand years of Sijing.' I made a point of visiting. The first thing I saw was an imposing ancient memorial archway, whose intricate details I pondered for a long time.
Within the town’s historic area, there are 53 listed heritage buildings that nurtured a slew of historical and cultural figures, including the renowned historian Tao Zongyi, Ming Dynasty painter Fan Yunlin, Fudan University founder Ma Xiangbo, and Shun Pao newspaper founder Shi Liangcai. There are also several visitable halls where you can learn about the history and culture of Songjiang and Shanghai.
The town also has the Futian Jing Temple, originally the Dongtian Temple built over a millennium ago, which survived into the early years of the PRC. According to local chronicles, Sijing's very formation originated from temple fairs. During the reign of Song Emperor Zhenzong (between 998 and 1022), the Dongtian Buddhist temple and pagoda were erected, serving as a place of pilgrimage. In ancient times, when spiritual life was relatively barren, temples were among the most important social venues, so this ancient temple is a witness to Songjiang's long history.
**Shanghai Film Park**
When people think of film studios in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region, they usually think of Hengdian. But Hengdian is huge and its themes are all over the place. I prefer the smaller, more focused Shanghai Film Park, because here you see ‘Old Shanghai.’ Established in 1992, the park features streetscapes like Nanjing Road and Shikumen lane neighborhoods—architectural clusters from the Republican era that instantly transport you back to the 1930s.
In the last century, Shanghai was heavily influenced by Western architecture, so the film park also includes European-style buildings like the Mahler Villa, a church, a German villa, a Spanish house, and an English villa—so picturesque that many wedding photographers come here for shoots. The Mahler Villa at the north end, modeled after a Norwegian cultural theme, originally stood on Shaanxi South Road in Shanghai. Legend has it that its construction was inspired by a heartwarming little story, earning it the name 'Dream Apartment.' It’s now a landmark within the park.
One thing to keep in mind: as you walk around, you might just bump into a celebrity. The park has been a filming location for many movies and TV shows, including Romance in the Rain, Sparrow, and Kung Fu—see if you recognize any scenes!
Oh, and I found out that during the National Day holiday (October 1st to 8th), the park will host the ‘Gorgeous China • Graceful Qipao 2020 Shanghai Qipao Culture & Art Festival.’ Sounds fun and visually stunning! The qipao is an essential element of ‘Old Shanghai.’ Whenever I hear the word, I picture Maggie Cheung in all those qipaos in the movie In the Mood for Love—so full of charm!
**Laiyifen Snack Museum**
Young people love snacks, but fewer and fewer are willing to spend time browsing supermarkets. Online shopping is just too convenient—with a few taps, snacks arrive at your door, or you can visit a specialty snack store for a one-stop selection. This has given rise to many trendy online snack brands, and ‘Laiyifen’ is one of them. But this time in Songjiang, I didn’t shop at a Laiyifen store; I visited the Laiyifen Snack Museum to learn about how the snacks we eat every day are produced, selected, and the culture behind them.
It’s no exaggeration to say the museum showcases snack culture. Inside, themed zones such as the Snack Party, Snack Street, and Culture Corridor, with bold colors and illustrations, create a visually delightful and fun space adored by visitors of all ages. The museum isn’t just about gawking—it’s also a place to gain insights, exploring the stories of artisanal flavors that originate from nature’s bounty, all in an entertaining and educational way.
On the second floor, there’s a stylish café-library where you can rest, snap photos, and even pick up some knowledge about coffee and tea culture.
So why build a museum for snacks? According to staff, this venue is an important exploration by Laiyifen, against the backdrop of consumer upgrades and food industry globalization, to promote a deeper understanding of Chinese culinary culture, both at home and abroad. It covers three main themes: historical heritage, innovation and development, and experiential sharing. Simply put, in an era of ever-growing foodies, Laiyifen chose to build a museum to show that eating is about culture, spirit, mission, and taste—shifting from a basic need to a refined experience.
**Fangta Park**
Fangta Park is a Songjiang garden centered on viewing historical relics. Before coming, I imagined it would be a relatively niche spot, but to my surprise, it was bustling with local visitors. I guess that’s thanks to its deep history and very affordable ticket price—12 yuan, which in downtown Shanghai can’t even buy a cup of bubble tea, yet here it grants you access to a millennium of culture.
Covering about 182 mu, the park sits on what was the bustling center of ancient Huating during the Tang and Song dynasties, bordered by Aimin Street to the east and Sangong Street to the west. It was both a gathering place for literati and a microcosm of Songjiang’s heritage. In other words, this used to be downtown, and now it’s a charming off-the-beaten-path destination. The park’s screen wall is the oldest, most exquisite, and best-preserved large brick carving in Shanghai, possibly even China. Measuring 4.75 meters high and 6.1 meters wide, it’s a gigantic brick relief.
The Fangta pagoda, the park’s iconic structure, is a square nine-story tower built of brick and wood, first erected in the late Song Dynasty and renovated many times. Standing 42.5 meters tall, it resembles a graceful Jiangnan maiden. The wooden staircase inside is narrow and steep, growing tighter as you ascend; beyond the seventh floor, you can’t climb further. The doorway on that level is less than a meter high—you’d have to crawl to get through. Hence, the Fangta is celebrated across the southeast for its elegance. A couplet from an ancient poem captures it best: ‘Of the thirty-six pagodas near the sea, none is as exquisite as the Fangta.’
**Zuibaichi Park**
Zuibaichi Park is quite similar to Fangta Park—another classic Jiangnan garden, also with a 12-yuan entry fee. Dating back over 900 years since its precursor, and over 300 years since it acquired the name Zuibaichi, the park preserves halls, pavilions, waterside structures, and boats in the Ming and Qing Jiangnan style, brimming with antique charm.
When I visited, there weren’t many tourists, so I could really savor the landscape. The garden is centered on a pond, surrounded on three sides by winding corridors and pavilions. Honestly, it’s photogenic from every angle—just don’t hold back on the shutter, and you’ll leave with plenty of great shots. Ancient ginkgo and camphor trees, some three to four hundred years old, dot the grounds, a feature newer gardens can’t match.
Zuibaichi has an impressive pedigree: it’s one of Shanghai’s five classical gardens, alongside Yuyuan Garden, Guyi Garden, Qiuxiapu Garden, and Qushui Garden—and it’s the oldest of them all. Maybe it’s a symbol of Songjiang tourism as a whole: abundant resources, yet fewer tourists than in the city center. Whether you’re seeking history, culture, or Instagram-worthy photo ops, the experience is top-notch! Based on each attraction’s announcements, I’ve also compiled a list of upcoming events in Songjiang’s scenic spots—save it for reference!
