Traveling Solo or with Company, Each Has Its Own Joys – An Autumn Trip through Shanghai, Zhejiang, and Fujian

A quick overview: Right outside Yandangshan Railway Station, a bus goes directly to the visitor center. Jiaxing’s high-speed rail station is far from downtown, so I opted for a nearby, ticket-free attraction instead. Haining is neither too close nor too far from must-see sights, but the buses stop running early. Shaoxing’s high-speed rail station is also quite remote; luckily the main sights (Lu Xun’s Hometown) are clustered together, so you can just leave plenty of time for the far-flung spots. When buying ferry tickets for Shengsi Islands, be careful—the online dock names are very similar. Figure out exactly where you are before buying; I ended up refunding my ticket twice. It’s relatively close to Shanghai. Linhai has many one-way streets, and most bus routes are circular, making stops hard to find. Taking DiDi to main attractions, however, isn’t expensive. Since accommodation and entrance fees make up the bulk of expenses, I stuck to the principle of saving money and doing more, rarely taking taxis. I chose youth hostels in two places; if I’d booked regular hotels in the same areas, this trip could have cost me two or three thousand more.

D1 (2020.10.9) Beijing → Shanghai by train

Off again, and I’d even arranged to meet a beautiful young lady for a meal and a stroll along the Bund. Having someone to take photos and share the day with me – absolute bliss!

D2 (2020.10.10) Shanghai – Shanghai Museum, the Bund

Arrived early morning by train. The underground pedestrian passageway thoroughly confused me, so I took a taxi to the hostel I’d booked earlier. Charged everything up, then walked to the nearby Shanghai Museum. It had just opened when I got there; there weren’t many visitors.

Due to epidemic prevention measures, they’d put divider lines on the elevators.

Many of the artifacts had adorable shapes, but the lighting was so dim—took some getting used to.

In the calligraphy and painting gallery, the lighting was designed to brighten only when it sensed visitors approaching. I imagine this is essential for preserving very old works. I’d once seen a hundred-year-old Chinese painting at an art museum in Beijing that was already cracked.

The artist in this picture was only 16 years old—a prodigy just like Wang Ximeng!

Here’s the introductory info posted in each hall; English versions too. Many museums lack this—it’s really worth promoting.

Arriving at the “Seals” hall, I watched for a while before I finally figured out the purpose of those slanted display cases. Yes, I’m that slow.

The background information in the pictures was also quite good.

Some vessel shapes are rarely seen—maybe because they aren’t commonly found?

This one was labeled “drum stand.” Thank goodness for the illustration; I finally understood what it was for.

I toured the museum until 1 p.m., then returned to the neighborhood around the hostel, where eateries abound. I rested and waited for my companion.

Back at the hostel, I showered and packed. My friend flew in, charged her things as well, and we discussed where to go later. Together we headed to the Nanjing Road area for some Shanghai cuisine.

Do her legs look two meters long or what?

Following an old friend’s footsteps, I also hopped on an open-top sightseeing bus for a nighttime tour of Shanghai. Thank goodness my companion listened to me and brought an extra layer; if she’d gone with her original plan of just a short-sleeved top, she’d have been freezing tonight!

Time flies, years speed by. Twenty years passed in the blink of an eye.

D3 (20.10.11) Shanghai – Wukang Road, Sinan Road, Zhou Enlai’s Former Residence, Tianzifang, near Jing’an Temple

Exhausted from yesterday, I crashed at the hostel and slept soundly. Woke up very early today. After tidying up, I waited for my companion to get up. She checked out, stored her luggage, and we went to a tiny eatery across the street for breakfast. I ordered “scallion oil noodles”—who could resist after Huang Lei kept promoting them on his show? On the wall were photos of the boss with celebrities, probably local stars or hosts—I honestly didn’t recognise a single one. We took the metro to Wukang Road, which my companion wanted to explore.

We stumbled upon a telephone booth and ended up taking pictures there for ages. My companion’s phone takes far better photos than mine.

The term “petty bourgeoisie” (xiaozi) originally hails from Shanghai.

After that, we took a bus to Sinan Road to visit “Zhou Enlai’s Former Residence.”

At the residence, we met a beautiful woman who asked my companion to take her photo, and we ran into her again on the way out. We exchanged photography tips; my companion said only those with “fair skin, good looks, and long legs” are the easiest to photograph well. She and her friend planned to eat at the famous “A Niang Noodle Shop” recommended in their travel guide. Sadly, my friend didn’t care for noodles, so we had to pass.

Since my companion hadn’t adjusted well to the rich, oily Shanghai-style cooking yesterday, we headed to “Miss Fu in Chengdu” and polished off every plate.

That’s a glass art museum.

Exhausted from wandering and losing the urge to snap photos, after lunch we decided to just sit somewhere nearby. That led us to Tianzifang.

Serving coffee in a plastic cup even when drinking in? They could’ve at least asked!

As an old Beijinger, I’d never heard of a dish called “spicy tripe.”

The first picture is the scallion pancake that went viral on WeChat Moments—still long queues. The second looks like a wedding preparation.

Xujiahui Catholic Church. It was only open to worshippers, so I could only photograph the exterior. A Shanghai guy I’d met on a previous trip treated us so warmly—truly moving. Authentic local cuisine. After eating, right by the road a band was singing and playing; they were even live-streaming. Impressive!

D4 (20.10.11) Shanghai – Disneyland

Since I was in Shanghai, I figured I ought to visit. I’ve watched their films since childhood; time to make a small contribution. A bowl of wontons for breakfast, then off I went! Metro Line 11 goes straight there.

Didn’t expect it would involve physical labor.

Coco is a great movie, but the land it’s based on is too new, so the area dedicated to it is tiny.

The photo shows what I highly recommend: “Soaring Over the Horizon.” Waited 75 minutes. By the time I came out, the wait was up to 90 minutes.

The shooting game in the picture was fun. At first I couldn’t find the trick, but then I got the hang of it. Afterward, looking left and right at the roller coasters, I had zero desire to queue. I sat by the entrance to a big restaurant and gazed into the distance. It looked like there was a Captain America performance, but I couldn’t be bothered to go down. To do Disney right, you either need youth or stamina; I have neither.

After a rest, I wanted to watch a Star Wars film, but was told that attraction cost extra. Walked on and found the Marvel headquarters; not too many people. Then it was just waiting for the lights and fireworks show.

After 6 p.m. it got a bit chilly. I wrapped myself in my coat, squatted in my spot, and actually dozed off for a while. Watching those girls sit on the stone slabs for hours—ah, to be young! The light-and-fireworks show was indeed spectacular, blending in several famous Disney films: Nemo, The Lion King, Frozen, The Little Mermaid, and at the end elements from Cars and Toy Story. How is independent travel more tiring than a group tour? Every day 20,000 steps. On the metro back to the hostel, I even managed to get a seat. Hugely popular route. Went to bed early.

D5 (20.10.12) Shanghai – Duolun Road, Sweet Love Road, Shikumen Museum, Bank Museum

I’d planned to sleep half the day, but woke up at 6 a.m. anyway. Watched the clock until past 8, then set off. The hostel my companion had booked was so convenient—the whole street lined with small eateries. Traveling solo means lots of simple meals, so you can try a different one each day. After breakfast, my first stop was Duolun Road…

It really is a cultural street!

In the photo they’re taking Republic-era style photos; the photographer is adjusting the model’s pose.

All cultural luminaries—hoped to absorb some of that cultural vibe. I followed a group tour and guessed they were from a Party school; turns out I was right!

The second floor exhibits the deeds of pioneers who fought revolutions with their pens.

Pictured is a building that was once Bai Chongxi’s residence; now it’s a hospital, so I didn’t dare disturb. It’s said Lu Xun spent his last ten years in Hongkou, so the Lu Xun Memorial Hall is nearby.

The famous “Love Post Office” is right here. I saw an uncle directing two girls posing for photos, so I couldn’t get a shot without people.

After wandering for a while, I discovered that this entrance to the Lu Xun Memorial Hall was closed. On my way back, I stumbled upon “Sweet Love Lane.” I used my selfie stick for the first time (Disneyland bans them). When I saw two aunties coming, I quickly gave way. As I rested on a bench, I watched one auntie change into a different dress and keep posing. No matter your age, always keep a love for beauty!

Earlier, I’d discussed with my Shanghai friend whether TV dramas paint an accurate picture of Shanghai. I’d recently watched several: Your Home, Nothing but Thirty, plus older ones like Double-sided Adhesive Tape, Ode to Joy, and of course many with Sun Li. My friend replied: “Only The Debt, Shanghai Family, and the film Stock Fever are fairly true to life.” Thank goodness I’m old enough to have seen them all. So I came to visit the “Shikumen Museum” to learn a bit more.

The furnishings in the Shikumen house are absolutely a blend of East and West—there’s an old-fashioned square table, plus a leather sofa, and in Rococo style no less!

Not far off was my fourth stop: the Bank Museum. It reminded me of works like Sunrise, where the villains are always bankers.

I kept walking and didn’t eat until nearly 4 p.m. Nearly 20,000 steps every day, so I went back to the hostel early to rest.

D6 (20.10.13) Shanghai – Wood Culture Museum, Qibao Old Street, Qibao Temple, Vanke Plaza

Had a glutinous rice roll for breakfast (thumb up!) and headed to a more outlying attraction.

I’d bought a travel annual pass on Taobao. Even though the included sights are on the niche side, it pays for itself after three visits. The Shikumen Museum the other day was one; the Wood Culture Museum was another, located way out in Baoshan District. I also taught an uncle how to use WeChat for audio guides.

The photo specifically pointed out the best spot for photos—how thoughtful. Trees are all around us in daily life, yet we never really study them. This was a perfect intensive catch-up session.

I remember when The Story of Minglan was airing, they specifically introduced “folding chairs.”

China’s mortar-and-tenon structure is truly amazing.

At first, I was the only person in the entire exhibition hall. Midway through, a woman in red arrived with a small group, loudly giving explanations. The hall was echoey and spacious; her voice was unbearably jarring.

The natural grain in the photo needs no carving at all!

In the afternoon, a former companion from Southeast Asia invited me out. They toured me around Qibao Old Street and treated me to street snacks.

After visiting Qibao Temple and Qibao Buddhist Temple, we hit our fourth stop: Vanke Plaza. A girls’ get-together means HEYTEA, a movie, and hot pot. I have to whisper—I’d never had HEYTEA before; I’d heard the queues in Beijing were insane.

D7 (20.10.15) Shanghai – Zhujiajiao Ancient Town

Zhujiajiao can be reached directly by metro—very convenient.

The fresh-pork zongzi in the picture—I’d always thought they were unique to Jiaxing.

Today truly was a leisurely journey! A light drizzle fell now and then. With a local friend keeping me company, I wandered through the ancient town, ate whenever tired, drank when thirsty, and even watched tourists rent Hanfu for photos. Way too relaxing. My Shanghai trip ended on a perfect note!

D8 (20.10.16) Shanghai → Jiaxing – Meihuazhou Scenic Area

Finished in Shanghai, headed straight to Jiaxing. Jiaxing South Station is quite rural. Following the guesthouse owner’s advice, I went to a nearby spot: Meihuazhou. My annual pass totally paid for itself by now! A rainy day is perfect for wandering through Jiangnan’s ancient streets.

A special shout‑out to this restroom.

Nowadays every scenic area seems to have a dragon throne for photos! Pic 3: I finally saw the famous unstaffed smart store—no aunties taking shelter inside with the A/C blasting. I so wanted to buy that peach gum, but I couldn’t be bothered to lug it around. A thousand-year-old ginkgo—can’t see the one in Xi’an, so I’ll make do with Jiaxing’s!

At last, an unstaffed store.

It’s said they assembled leftover props from film crews here; the place is often used for team-building activities.

The nap pods in the picture were a bit pricey! Big wontons—really solid and filling.

That’s another thousand-year-old ginkgo. My mom always said ginkgoes must come in a male-female pair—looks like that’s true. Across the river, there’s a farming demonstration area; probably great for picking in harvest season.

I didn’t linger long at the experimental farm; just as well, because the rain started pouring. Walking along the river, the combo of water and bamboo suddenly made me miss Liuzhou. Wrapped up in my coat, I sheltered at the stage, cracking sunflower seeds. A TV here kept looping all the details about Meihuazhou. Looks like a nice place to gather friends on weekends.

A pretty lady was live-streaming while a photographer shot her. The sutra-copying area was empty.

D9 (20.10.17) Jiaxing → Haining – Tidal Bore Park, Yanguan Scenic Area

A heart-stopping moment this morning: while packing my luggage to catch the train, a live critter appeared. If it had been midnight… I shudder to think. Got the heck out! I’ve been waking up very early every day, just right for catching early buses.

Quite a few tourists were there—thankfully I arrived in time, because the tidal bore only comes once; the backward surge is about an hour later, and I had no idea if there’d be one today.

Looks like a team-building event; the music must be “Sisters Who Make Waves.”

This chronicles famous people’s tidal-bore visits.

My friends’ posts during National Day showed huge crowds. Looking at the admission fees for the tide-watching towers, and then when I wanted a closer look at a stone stele (a replica), I found it covered in mud splashes from yesterday’s rain, and staff had parked their e-scooters inside. All I could do was chuckle wryly…

Those who don’t fancy waking early can stay inside the scenic area and just step out when it’s time; you can even see the nighttime tide. It turns out their official WeChat account posts daily tide times—my earlier online search was inaccurate. So glad I caught it; otherwise I’d have regretted it terribly.

Pictured is a newly rebuilt city gate tower; they say they’ll eventually complete all four sides. A short walk brought me to Stop Two: the Temple of the Sea God.

Check out the English translation for “Shanmen” (mountain gate)—what do you reckon?

Stop Three: Jin Yong Academy. I was raised on Jin Yong’s works since childhood—how could I not pay a visit? I don’t think I’ve ever read The Mandarin Duck Blades. The first time I learned what “hollow vegetable” meant was from A Deadly Secret. I overheard a guide say that Jin Yong himself came for the groundbreaking ceremony.

In an interview, Mr. Jin Yong said he regretted writing so many novels and felt he should’ve devoted that time to scholarly research. However, he lived a long life and still managed considerable scholarship, while enriching countless martial-arts fans—a fine legacy in itself. Just look at how many TV and film adaptations there are!

Walked to Stop Four: Confucius Temple and Imperial Academy.

The “Qionglin Banquet” in the picture rang a bell from Chinese opera lyrics; now I can connect it to a real place.

I apparently viewed the Ming-Qing imperial exam system information in the wrong order—there were no directional signs, so I read it backwards. I recall some scholar lecturing on the “Chinese imperial examination system,” which was not only advanced in terms of selecting officials, but also boosted private education and cultural development.

Nearly 24,000 steps today! Summary: Haining’s high-speed rail station and scenic spots are located in the outskirts; buses run at long intervals, and my bus was, of course, the slowest. I wasn’t in a hurry but begrudged taking a taxi because tickets for upcoming stops would be a major expense. It felt like waiting for Beijing bus 933. When will I achieve travel freedom, booking hotels without blinking?

D10 (20.10.18) Haining → Shaoxing – East Lake, Lu Xun’s Hometown (including Former Residence, Ancestral House, Memorial Hall, Sanwei Study, Baicao Garden, Lu Xun Folklore Garden)

The poem in the photo struck a chord. I dropped off my luggage and headed to the first stop: Shaoxing East Lake. My travel research hadn’t been thorough enough, so I took a bit of a detour. But if East Lake charged a standalone entry of 50 yuan, it wouldn’t be great value—the area is small, black-awning boats require separate tickets, and you need four people per boat. Locals get in free…

Leaving East Lake, I arrived at Lu Xun’s Hometown. They offer WeChat audio guides; one group I saw used Bluetooth earpieces, so they wouldn’t disturb other visitors. Unfortunately, I saw only that one group doing this.

The picture finally explained what the “Three Tastes” refer to.

The stories in the exhibition were very moving. After finishing the Lu Xun Memorial Hall, I was hungry, tired, and cold. I found a noodle shop recommended online—decent taste.

After eating, I had to wait until 6:30 p.m. for Shen Garden’s night tour to open. Carrying a traditional lantern around the garden is quite creative. Plus, riding on the popularity of The Story of Minglan and pairing the tragic love story of Lu You and Tang Wan, I’m sure it still draws visitors. During the day, Lu Xun’s Hometown was packed. Ticket note: A combo ticket including the night garden cost 140 yuan on Ctrip, covering East Lake, Orchid Pavilion, and Yu the Great Mausoleum; Lu Xun’s Hometown is free.

I tagged along with a guide to hear the story of “The Phoenix Hairpin.” The performance revolved around this theme, with rain falling midway, adding to the melancholy. Retreated early to the hotel to wash clothes—afraid they wouldn’t dry on the humid Putuo islands. Step count broke another record; my feet were wrecked.

D11 (20.10.19) Shaoxing – Orchid Pavilion, Yu the Great Mausoleum

Went to the long-distance bus station to ask about tickets. Good thing I did—there are several bus stations with different schedules. Took a public bus to Orchid Pavilion, over ten kilometers away, saving money for Zhoushan. I met a local calligraphy enthusiast on the bus, so we explored together. A light shower fell midway; luckily I’d brought rain gear.

There’s also an Orchid Pavilion Museum. As a calligraphy student, I simply had to pay homage. Pictured is the “winding water drinking game,” with the drinking vessels used by literati. I’ve seen modern TV dramas depict it the same way now!

With a companion, photos are possible! And we could eat together—sheer bliss…

Yu the Great Mausoleum. I truly couldn’t climb the hill, so I just viewed it from below.

If I’d had the time and energy, the uphill trail would’ve been quite enjoyable, all bamboo groves and high negative oxygen ions.