Jinze Ancient Town: The Number One Bridge Town of Jiangnan
Jinze Town is Shanghai's famous 'bridge town'. The celebrated calligrapher and seal engraver Qian Juntao once inscribed seven large characters: 'Jinze's ancient bridges are the finest under heaven.' According to historical records, Jinze once had 'Six Temples, One Pagoda, Thirteen Archways, and Forty-Two Rainbow Bridges,' along with a saying: 'Every temple has a bridge, and every bridge has a temple.' Each bridge not only has its own features but is also connected to a temple, pavilion, or nunnery. Today most of the temples are gone, but the bridges still retain their charm. Jinze's bridges are extraordinary—numerous and mostly historic. The ancient town preserves seven bridges built during the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, earning it the title 'Number One Bridge Town in Jiangnan.' These seven bridges connect Shangtang Street and Xiatang Street.
It was established as a town before 960 AD (early Song dynasty). It is said to have flourished in the Song and prospered in the Yuan. Legend has it that a farmer once found a stone like gold, hence the name 'Jinshi' (Gold Stone). Another story says that since this water-abundant land produces fish and rice surpassing gold, it was called 'Jinze' (Golden Marsh).
The poet Yu Guangzhong once said: 'When one steps onto a bridge, he is in no hurry to reach the other side, but instead enjoys the scenery. What was meant as a road turns into a viewing platform, allowing one to look up at the sky, down at the water, gaze across both banks, stop and go as one pleases, and stroll leisurely.' That's exactly what Jinze Ancient Town feels like!
At the heart of Jinze Ancient Town is a market river running north to south, the essence of the town, flowing through the entire area. You can take a boat along the waterway; a 30-minute ride costs only 10 yuan per person. Experience the traditional and elegant charm emanating from every brick and tile of this water town. Best of all, admission is free. Moreover, it's not widely known, so weekday visitors are few, making it exceptionally serene.
This ancient town has no commercial air, no garishness; just white walls, black tiles, and water-town homes. On its age-old bridges, the rustic simplicity is astonishing. There aren't many shops here, much less noise and fuss than other ancient towns near Shanghai, giving one the illusion of being forgotten by time.
As you walk along, you'll encounter ancient bridges of various styles. When tired, you can hop on a sculling boat to admire the old town. Stepping across each ancient bridge, you feel the sedimentation of history. The quiet old town reveals a time that seems to have traversed centuries; the river flows silently, everything is beautiful. People come to Jinze precisely for these ancient bridges. You can find details about each on Baidu, so I won't repeat them. If you want a quiet, unspoiled place, Jinze is an excellent choice.
East of the market river is Shangtang Street, west is Xiatang Street. Here is the gateway at the entrance of Shangtang Street on Jinxi Road: plaque reads 'Secluded Lane, Historic Shops' and the couplet says 'Native waterscapes elegant and clear; ancient town relics in classic style.'
The waterside bridges (docks) were all listed as Qingpu District Cultural Heritage Sites in February 2017. The town has many stone quays for washing or mooring boats. With age, these waterside steps are now immovable cultural relics, designated as district-level protected units.
A scene along the river on Xiatang Street
Town residents live by the river.
Jinze Wang Family Residence. Built during the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty (1875-1908), it faces west, has two courtyards and two stories, brick-and-wood structure, total area 158 sqm. Designated as a registered immovable cultural relic in 2004, and as a Qingpu District Heritage Site in February 2017. The gate is kept closed; it's said you can visit if you have a personal connection.
A grape trellis planted by town residents
Seeing the ancient ginkgo tree of Yihao Chan Temple peeking out its tall crown
Yihao Chan Temple was first built in the first year of the Jingding reign of the Southern Song Dynasty (1260). It is said to have been the former residence of Prime Minister Lü Yihao, hence the name. In the 25th year of the Yuan Dynasty's Zhiyuan period (1288), it was upgraded to a temple by imperial edict and renamed Yihao Chan Temple. The temple holds 15 inscribed steles by notable figures from various dynasties, including paintings by Wu Daozi of the Tang, the Diamond Sutra calligraphy by Zhao Mengfu of the Yuan, and his 'Endless Clouds' ink painting, among other stone carvings. At its peak, the temple was magnificent with halls soaring high, but it was repeatedly damaged in wars and rebuilt. Repaired in 1906 (Qing Guangxu 32), it was not as grand as before. On the fourth day of the lunar new year in 1938, most of the temple was destroyed by Japanese artillery, leaving only the Heavenly King Hall and the main gate. It was dismantled in 1958; only the 'Record of Yihao Chan Temple' stele, the ancient ginkgo tree, 14 broken pieces of the 'Endless Clouds' stone carving, 16 pillar bases, and a few rockery stones survived. After restoration in 1992, a stone memorial archway was built, and the temple's name was personally inscribed by Zhao Puchu, president of the Buddhist Association.
The first bridge next to Yihao Chan Temple is Puqing Bridge. Walking south along Shangtang Street, not far ahead, a vermilion single-arch wooden bridge in imitation Song style spans the market river. It's called Puqing Bridge, but it's not ancient; it was built in 1999 for an American TV documentary series 'China's Rainbow Bridges,' replicating the Rainbow Bridge over the Bian River in Zhang Zeduan's famous Song-dynasty painting 'Along the River During the Qingming Festival.' It is said that ancient Chinese bridge-building techniques were used: without scaffolding, 64 arch timbers and 5 cross beams were bundled together to form the arch, without a single nail. Commissioned by WGBH for NOVA's 'China's Rainbow Bridges' program, organized by Shanghai Oriental Pearl International Exchange Company, designed by the Bridge Design Branch of Tongji Planning and Architectural Design Research Institute, and built by Qingbo Ancient Architecture and Garden Construction Co., it was completed on October 30, 1999. This stele was erected to commemorate it.
The boat dock is right beside the first bridge, Puqing Bridge, next to Yihao Chan Temple.
Jinze Puji Bridge was built in the third year of Xianchun of the Southern Song Dynasty (1267) and had stone railings added during its renovation in the early Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty. With over 700 years of history, it is the best-preserved and oldest stone bridge in the Shanghai area. This single-arch stone bridge is arc-shaped, 26.7 m long, 2.75 m wide, with an arch span of 10.5 m. The gentle slope and narrow deck are distinctive Song-dynasty features. The bridge collar ring bears the inscription 'Third Year of Xianchun,' and the inner arch stones are carved with lotus banners and the same date, now blurred. Puji Bridge's design is sophisticated: its arch construction is the same as the famous Zhaozhou Bridge in Hebei Province, and its stone material matches the Wangxian Bridge in Fangta Park, Songjiang County, Shanghai. The bridge stones are mostly purple stone (hence commonly called Purple Stone Bridge); in Song-era Jiangnan, purple stone was prevalent. After rain, the bridge deck glistens like a jewel-inlaid bridge of purple stone. Over the long years, many stones were replaced, and now the bridge is mixed with blue stone and granite. The sides have railings, and both approaches had ramps, now incomplete. Jinze Puji Bridge is hailed as 'Shanghai's Number One Bridge' and was listed as a fourth-batch Shanghai Cultural Heritage Site in 1987. It is also included in the Shanghai Dictionary and the Dictionary of Chinese Scenic Spots.
Standing on the bridge and gazing at Puqing Bridge
Admiring the scenery on both sides
Looking towards Fangsheng Bridge; on a heavily polluted day, there's a layer of haze in the backlight.
Fangsheng Bridge is located at the southern end of Jinze Town, originally built in the Ming Dynasty and repaired in 1628. It lies about 50 meters north of Ruyi Bridge. Because there is a river for releasing captive animals below the bridge, it is called Fangsheng (Release) Bridge. It is also called Zongguan (Chief Steward) Bridge because there is Zongguan Temple at the bridge abutment. It is a single-arch stone bridge, 25.2 m long and 4 m high, rebuilt several times during the Ming and Qing. The stones are sturdy granite and blue stone. The bridge columns bear a couplet, clearly legible, added during later repairs: 'The bridge links Ruyi and leads to prosperity, clear streams from the bay connect to open water.' This couplet describes how the bridge connects Ruyi Bridge to a broad road, and the clear water flows into a gurgling stream. It expresses both the spirit of Ruyi Bridge and the beautiful water. The ancient couplet reflects a love for the bridge. Today, it is well preserved and remains an important passage. In 1994, it was designated as a fourth-batch Qingpu County Heritage Site.
Zongguan Temple. 'Zongguan' was a government post in the Yuan Dynasty. The temple was originally a living shrine for the local prefect, later deified as Zongguan God. According to Suzhou Prefecture Records, Jinze's Zongguan deity was Jin Yuanqi from Kaifeng, an impartial and diligent official. He brought peace and good harvests to the region, later promoted to Grain Transport Supervisor. For his service managing imperial grain, he was honored by the court and called 'Prince of Grain.' After his death, a temple was built and he was enshrined as Zongguan God. Incense still burns, reflecting the people's respect for honest officials. Zongguan Temple is very small, looking more like an ordinary family courtyard in the old town. It enshrines the Zongguan deity. Legend says he was loyal and fearless throughout his life, and after death, he was canonized by the court, a temple was built, and he was made Zongguan God. It looks quite old. There's an incense donation fee of 5 yuan.
Houses on Xiatang Street opposite Fangsheng Bridge
Cross Fangsheng Bridge and follow the riverside path to Ruyi Bridge.
Fangsheng Bridge and Ruyi Bridge align along the path.
Ruyi Bridge is at Dongsheng Port in the south of Jinze Town, built during the Zhiyuan period of the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1294) and renovated in the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty (1768). It is the most intact single-arch stone bridge in the town. Originally there was a Zushi Temple at the south end, so it is also called Zushi Bridge. The arch of Ruyi Bridge is reflected in the green water, forming a perfect circle with its reflection, a famous scenic spot in Jinze. The bridge is 20.8 m long and 3.4 m wide, looking very sturdy. Built entirely of uniform granite, neatly hewn, the deck is carved with a coiling dragon and a ruyi pattern on the right end. On the columns are two couplets. One, said to be by a local gentry: 'As the name suggests, Zushi Temple masters goodness; cause and effect, Ruyi Bridge fulfills wishes.' This praises the temple's abbot and explains the bridge's philosophy. The second, attributed to Ming strategist Liu Bowen: 'Turning danger into safety, may all be as you wish forever; bestowing universal blessings, peace to all on every journey.' The second line resonates with Zhu Yuanzhang's vision of conquering the realm, transforming peril into plain, and governing with care for the people, ensuring peace and prosperity.
View of houses on both banks from Ruyi Bridge
Below Ruyi Bridge is a shop called Ruyi Noodles, the first business you see when entering the old town, but it wasn't open.
Yingxiang Bridge is at the southern edge of Jinze Town. It was built during the Zhiyuan period of the Yuan Dynasty (1335-1340) and repaired twice, during the Tianshun period of the Ming (1457-1464) and the 33rd year of Qianlong in the Qing (1768). It is a beam-type stone bridge with six pillars and five arches. The central span is 6.35 m, the next two are 5 m, and the outermost are 4.3 m. Total length 34.25 m, width 2.14 m. Its construction is unique: four stone wall pillars made of five long granite blocks each stand in the water, creating five openings. On top of the stone walls are horizontal stone cap beams with semicircular grooves to securely seat five 25 cm-thick nanmu wood beams. Above, the bridge deck is built of brick and wood: planks are laid across the nanmu beams, then covered tightly with blue bricks bonded with lime and glutinous rice paste, forming the brick deck. The sides are covered with polished grooved bricks to protect the wood beams, enhance aesthetics, and add weight for stability. Both approaches have steps. Since the Mongol cavalry of the Yuan Dynasty often needed to gallop across bridges, Yingxiang Bridge has no steps or railings. The bridge has a gentle longitudinal slope, slightly arched like a rainbow lying across the river, looking light and elegant. Thus, 'Night Moon at Yingxiang Bridge' is one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Jinze, with the verse 'the moon imprints on the flowing river, water and sky merge into one.' Its exquisite deck design is rare nationwide. Structurally, it exemplifies a continuous simply-supported beam system, a principle already used in bridge building in the Yuan Dynasty, centuries earlier than in the West.
The Jinze town government has made efforts to protect the ancient bridges. It constructed a large concrete highway bridge 100 meters south of it. All heavy loads go via the road bridge to reduce the burden on the historic bridge. Scenery near the large concrete road bridge.
To the southeast of Yingxiang Bridge, a garden area has been created with a traditional pavilion, trees, and flowers, forming a small garden for visitors to enjoy and rest. The pavilion has a couplet: 'Rainbow shadows encircle the sky as if within a painting; water and sky merge into one inspiring poetry.' It praises the beautiful and poetic scenery of the ancient bridge. In 1979, Yingxiang Bridge was listed as a Qingpu County Cultural Heritage Protection Unit.
Cross Yingxiang Bridge to Xiatang Street, a water town still retaining its ancient charm. It has formed a bond with the Jinze Craftsmanship Society, which is dedicated to preserving traditional Chinese craft design, meeting on the rainbow bridge between history and the future. At the Aba Prefecture Cultural Poverty Alleviation Field Meeting on June 5, 2018, Ms. Mei Bingqiao (from Hong Kong), director of the Shanghai Jinze Craftsmanship Society, received the 'Intangible Cultural Heritage Contribution Award.' The Jinze Craftsmanship Society occupies over 70 mu (approx. 4.7 hectares). Built on the basis of several abandoned factories, after more than a decade of renovation and construction, it now includes several antique-style buildings and exquisitely furnished residences and clubhouses. Once a large derelict industrial area, Ms. Mei Bingqiao spent over ten years gradually transforming it into this classical courtyard. What stands before you today is elegant, refined, and profoundly artistic.
The exterior of 'Pushan Pavilion' on Xiatang Street, Chengshan Lane, Jinze
View of Shangtang Street from Xiatang Street
View of Ruyi Bridge from Xiatang Street
Here you'll take a walk along Nanku Alley.
A tea house in the alley, seemingly converted from an old factory building
The ancient-style windows and walls of a dwelling on Xiatang Street
A deep, quiet lane on Xiatang Street
The former sewing machine factory site. It was originally the Fourth and Fifth Technical Schools of the Shanghai Labor Bureau, built in Jinze in the mid-1960s. It produced military ancillary products, a historical task born out of the specific conditions of 'prepare for war, prepare for famine, for the people' and 'be ready to fight.' After the Third Plenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Committee, the enterprise stopped military production per directives, shifted to civilian products, and was renamed Shanghai Sewing Machine Tool and Mould Factory. Covering 72,600 sqm with 38,000 sqm of building space, it is registered as an immovable industrial relic.
Chen Family Warehouse. Built in the early Republic of China, facing west, brick-and-wood structure, 175 sqm. In the early years after liberation, the Jinze People's Government used the large houses of the Chen and Lu families to establish a grain storage, because of the large area, good ventilation, and high storage capacity. The grain quality met national standards, making a significant contribution to the country. In 2004, it was registered as an immovable cultural relic. Chen Family Dock, located in front of the east-facing main door of Chen Family Warehouse, facilitating grain transport. Listed as a Qingpu District Cultural Heritage Site in February 2017.
Watching a waterside pavilion on Shangtang Street from the riverside on Xiatang Street
Not far from Fuhuang Bridge, on Beishengbang Street, the 'Fuhuang Temple' still stands today. A bridge was built in front of it, embodying the saying 'every temple has a bridge, every bridge has a temple.' According to records, Jinze Fuhuang Temple is on the south bank of Beishengbang in Jinze, also called Fuhuang Temporary Palace. Jinze was then under Songjiang Prefecture, so the temple was known locally as the Town God's Temple. Over years of neglect, in the 1950s, the statues of Fuhuang and Liu Chengshi were destroyed. The temple building still exists, partly inhabited by residents, but it's dilapidated. The pair of stone lions by the main gate, both grinning and imposing, were restored and moved to the newly built mountain gate of Yihao Temple, becoming a witness to the long history of Jinze Fuhuang Temple.
Cross Fuhuang Bridge and you'll reach Jinxi Road. Fuhuang Bridge is a completely new arch bridge; historically there was no bridge here. Its name likely comes from the 'Fuhuang Temple' at its end, though why both characters were changed to homophones is puzzling.
Not far from Jinxi Road on Xiatang Street stands a simple and elegant stone bridge, Tianhuangge Bridge. Nearby are many legends from the Spring and Autumn period about Yao Li and from the Three Kingdoms period about Gan Ning, reflecting Jinze's long history. Tianhuangge Bridge is the only three-arch stone bridge in Jinze. Built in the Ming Dynasty, it is also called Tianwang Bridge because there was a Tianwang Temple at the north end. Originally built in the Ming Dynasty (1698), it was reconstructed in its original three-arch form during the Kangxi reign of the Qing. At the bridge's center are carved stone ruyi patterns, along with reliefs of Buddhist motifs like 'Samsara,' 'Treasure Banner,' and 'Lotus Throne.' The inner arch stones feature the Eight Immortals' auspicious symbols. On the bridge pillars are carved 'Namo Amitabha' and other Buddhist inscriptions, a classic display of Buddhist culture on the entire ancient bridge. Tianhuangge Bridge is tall, second only to Fangsheng Bridge in Zhujiajiao. It is a rare three-arch stone bridge in Jiangnan, with a large central arch and smaller ones on the sides scaled down proportionally, both beautiful and convenient for boat passage and flood discharge. It was listed as a fourth-batch Qingpu County Heritage Site in 1994.
The stone lions on the bridge are all differently carved.
It faces Tajiang Bridge on Shangtang Street in the distance.
Between Tianhuangge Bridge and Wan'an Bridge on Xiatang Street, there is an old building with a historical plaque: Xu's Hall, a registered immovable cultural relic announced by Qingpu District in 2004. The door of Xu's Hall was open, and an elderly lady sat at the entrance. We asked, 'Hello, may we come in and look around?' She readily agreed, so we boldly walked into someone's home. Simple in appearance, it is a large four-courtyard compound with a main hall. Xu's Hall was built in the Qing Dynasty, facing east, brick-and-wood structure, total area 426 sqm. It is the best-preserved residence. Several small rooms line the street, used for storage and male servants' quarters. Crossing the street, you reach the main gate; it's a six-courtyard building. Behind the main hall is a back river, with a small bridge leading to the garden and ancestral burial ground. From the front river (market river) to the back river, the entire residence extends over 60 meters with more than 100 rooms. Xu's Hall: The first courtyard is the wall-gate house. The second is a skywell, with a gate adorned with water-polished square bricks carved with lifelike animals and flowers. Beyond is the tea hall. The third courtyard has a ceremonial gate with upturned eaves; under the eaves are four large characters 'Chun Hua Qiu Shi' (Spring Bloom, Autumn Harvest). A side corridor allows women to pass. The fourth is another skywell leading to the main hall, paved with square bricks, about 7 m high, 10 m deep, 6 m wide, with slightly rounded beams and dignified moon-shaped beams, square rafters, thick round inner pillars on stone drums. The hall is nearly square, with a large plaque 'Xingsu Hall' in the center, grand and used for ceremonies and receiving important guests. The fifth inner skywell has side rooms for storage and maids. The sixth is the main building (tanglou), the inner residence with exquisite decoration, wooden floors on the ground floor, fine doors and windows throughout, serving as the master's study, bedrooms, and place where women learned needlework. The main gate's doorposts are adorned with large square bricks, yet the top is simply covered with roof tiles directly, quite different from the ceremonial gate style. The main hall is richly adorned with carved beams and painted pillars.
Carved patterns on the plinth stones
Wan'an Bridge is at the northern end of Shangtang and Xiatang streets, spanning the market river. Built during the Jingding reign of the Song Dynasty (1260-1264), it is a few years older than Puji Bridge. 'Of Jinze's forty-two rainbow bridges, Wan'an is the foremost.' It was repaired many times in the Ming and Qing, and steles were erected. This single-arch stone bridge is 29 m long and 5.5 m high. Originally there was a pavilion on it, so it was also called Pavilion Bridge. Its structure, shape, and stone material are basically the same as Puji Bridge in the south; the two bridges span the same river, facing each other, and are called sister bridges. The cloud-pattern carvings on Wan'an Bridge's balustrades are exquisite, similar to the 'Endless Cloud' stone railings in front of the Grand Hall of Yihao Temple—flowing and ever-changing. The bridge's long history and craftsmanship have always been valued and protected. It is said that two young literati once climbed the bridge and recited poems: one said, 'Peace for all ages, with favorable weather,' and the other, 'Prosperity for all, with abundant grain.' Thus it was named Wan'an Bridge (Ten Thousand Peace). In ancient times, at the east end was a Buddhaland Pavilion, at the west end a God of Wealth Shrine—one bridge carrying two temples, known as 'bridge carrying temples,' a rare sight in Jiangnan water towns. Unfortunately, the temples and the pavilion are long gone. The balustrades of Wan'an Bridge are carved with cloud patterns, flowing and ever-changing. Wan'an Bridge was listed as a Qingpu County Cultural Heritage Protection Unit in 1959, a precious ancient bridge in Jinze.
A waterside pavilion on Jinze Pond from the bridge
A close view of Tahui Bridge, facing Tianhuangge Bridge in the distance. Rebuilt in the 36th year of Jiajing (1557), it is a single-arch beam stone bridge. Beside the bridge was once Yuantong Nunnery, large in scale with never-ending pilgrims. Between Tahui Bridge and the nunnery was a famous pagoda, once the bustling center of the old town. Over time, the nunnery and pagoda were destroyed, leaving only the bridge. After several restorations, it changed from a stone arch bridge to a concrete slab bridge.
Zhuangyuanlou Teahouse. Famous far and wide, this teahouse was visited by young Chen Yun, later a senior leader, who came to drink tea. During the Great Revolution, Chen Yun led revolutionary youths including Xu Xu to carry out activities in Jinze, promoting the peasant movement and struggling against lawless landlords at the teahouse. He also assembled workers and shop staff at Yuantong Nunnery to explain the Shanghai workers' movement and recount the heroic deeds of martyr Gu Zhenghong. Later, many more young people from Jinze embarked on the revolutionary path; Xu Chongdao studied at the Yan'an Revolutionary University, and Lu Yiqian joined the anti-Japanese forces.
Tahui Bridge looking towards Tianhuangge Bridge in the distance
Located at the northernmost end of Jinze, Linlao Bridge was built in the Yuan Dynasty (1264-1294) and repaired in the Ming and Qing. A single-arch stone bridge, it is also called Guandi Bridge because it faces Guandi Temple to the north. It is 24 m long, 4.5 m high. With age, the blue stone deck has become very smooth, but the bridge body is well maintained, giving it a classic elegance. Funded by an old man named Lin Qing to honor him, it is named Linlao (Old Lin) Bridge. This old Linlao Bridge, having lain across the town for over 600 years, still stands spiritedly. In 1994, it was listed as a fourth-batch Qingpu County Heritage Site. Countless notable figures and moving historical tales are associated with it, but the moral integrity of Lin Qing as a teacher and the medical ethics of Chen Lianfang are the stories most often told by Jinze villagers. Lin Qing, a native of Jinze in the Yuan Dynasty, rose to the rank of Pacification Commissioner. He was studious, wise, humble, and had a large collection of books. He devoted his wealth to building bridges and temples, making great contributions to the town. He rebuilt Yangye Temple and renovated Wan'an Bridge, personally composing inscriptions and writing the stele texts.